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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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V1LÆM

Gold Member
Hi y'all

This community has helped me a lot building my first ever desktop and it still runs great to this day. However, it is getting old, having passed 5 years this summer. So with some upcoming games I'm wondering what my options are.

The main components are an i5 - 2500K, standard clock, 8 gb of ram and a 580 GTX. Can I get away with just getting a 1070x or something similar if I want to play say Dishonored 2, Forza Horizon 3 and battlefield 1? I'm playing only at 1080p nor am I looking to push everything to the edge, but it would be nice to get something more than medium.

overclock it and get a GTX 1060. a 1070 would be fine too if it's within your budget and some argue it is overkill for 1080p but as time goes on it will last longer at 1080p than 1440p. that's exactly what i'm doing but i am downsampling some games from 1440p.
 

blanky

Member
Thanks for the advice. Does the overclocking make a significant impact? I've never done it before, there's a very decent cooler on there though (Noctua DH 14).
 

TheSeks

Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
I guess I could buy the part for it to sit on, but I've never actually installed these before and don't really feel comfortable with it.

Fuck it. I put the drive at the bottom of the case and it seems to be fine for now. I'll have to get the part for it to sit on in a few weeks.

Does anyone have a guide for putting Debian and Windows 10 on the same drive and co-existing? Since this is the third drive, I'm not sure if putting GRUB on the first drive (where Windows 10 is currently, going to reinstall it on the solid state in an hour or so) will have Debian be seen by the bootloader.
 
Thanks for the advice. Does the overclocking make a significant impact? I've never done it before, there's a very decent cooler on there though (Noctua DH 14).

You'll hit 4.5 to 4.6 ghz no problem with that cooler. Around 4.7 is when things start to get really hot for Sandy Bridge but that cooler may be able to handle it depending on your case's airflow.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
If I don't plan to overclock, is the i5-6500 CPU my best option in its price range?

And if so, what is best motherboard to pair with it?
 

rbanke

Member
So FYI, the Noctua NH-D15 blocks the top pcie slot on the Asus Maximus VIII GENE and the other pcie slot is x8. This conflicts with what I'd read on Asus's website. So I have to use an x8 slot which is disappointing even if it might not make a huge difference today.
 
Alright guys.

I posted a bit ago about advice on a build and I've now started to actually get all the components. However, in an effort to save a bit of money I'm considering cutting the SSD. This is probably a heretical move, but as far as I'm aware it's primary benefit is to speed up access time, which I'm not too worried about.

Would it cause too much trouble to migrate to an SSD later on if I fancy it, or should I just go all in with an SSD straight out?
 

ombz

Member
So FYI, the Noctua NH-D15 blocks the top pcie slot on the Asus Maximus VIII GENE and the other pcie slot is x8. This conflicts with what I'd read on Asus's website. So I have to use an x8 slot which is disappointing even if it might not make a huge difference today.

If it's possible to return it you could exchange it for the NH-D15S which is offset so you can use the top slot.
 
Alright guys.

I posted a bit ago about advice on a build and I've now started to actually get all the components. However, in an effort to save a bit of money I'm considering cutting the SSD. This is probably a heretical move, but as far as I'm aware it's primary benefit is to speed up access time, which I'm not too worried about.

Would it cause too much trouble to migrate to an SSD later on if I fancy it, or should I just go all in with an SSD straight out?

Adding an SSD later on won't be an issue assuming you don't mind doing another clean install of Windows in the near future. I would go all in right away and make your new build awesome from day one. The improved snappiness of the overall user experience is nothing to sneeze at.. Assuming you're not going for a massive SSD, they are pretty affordable these days.
 

luoapp

Member
Alright guys.

I posted a bit ago about advice on a build and I've now started to actually get all the components. However, in an effort to save a bit of money I'm considering cutting the SSD. This is probably a heretical move, but as far as I'm aware it's primary benefit is to speed up access time, which I'm not too worried about.

Would it cause too much trouble to migrate to an SSD later on if I fancy it, or should I just go all in with an SSD straight out?

I will consider an SSD as essential. Just think about it, your shinning new GPU give you fps boost when you are gaming, but an SSD does the same when you are not and way more noticable.
 

rbanke

Member
If it's possible to return it you could exchange it for the NH-D15S which is offset so you can use the top slot.

Yea this is exactly what I'll do. Even if it doesn't make a noticeable performance difference right now, it would be aggravating to find it bottlenecks a future upgrade. I may be able to talk Newegg into waving the restocking fee based on the wording of asus's website (claims "2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8, gray)") which in hindsight I suppose they mean x16 in length but I assumed both would be x16 based on how they position the board. One of those frustratingly mundane problems haha.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
I have a $250 Newegg gift card that is really pushing me to upgrade my PC. Please advise me on the best route to go! Here is my current build:

i3-2100
BIOSTAR TZ68A+ LGA 1155
GTX 960 2GB
500GB HDD
250GB SSD
EVGA 500B PSU
8GB RAM
Rosewill Challenger

I have a monitor, a mouse, a keyboard, and Windows 10 already. I want to salvage all of those, of course, as well as the HDD, the SSD, the PSU, and the case.

Now, the $250 Newegg gift card can effectively buy me this sweet EVGA GTX 1060 6GB.

For my processor, motherboard, and RAM, I've decided on this combo (I need a new motherboard):

i5-6500 for $205
MSI B150M Mortar for $90
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB DDR4 2400 for $70

Meaning the final tally after the gift card and shipping and taxes is $365.

After the upgrade, here is what the build would look like in PC Part Picker.

How big of an improvement would I see over my current build at 1080p gaming? Are those pretty much the most cost-effective parts I can upgrade to? Any idea if that PC would rival the Neo?

And finally, the only compatibility issue would be: "MSI B150M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard has an onboard USB 3.0 header, but the Rosewill CHALLENGER ATX Mid Tower Case does not have front panel USB 3.0 ports."

If I can save $50 by not having to buy a new case I'd like to, so I hope that isn't a deal-breaker. Thoughts?

Sorry for the long-winded post, but I'd love to hear some feedback on my plan!
 

luoapp

Member
I have a $250 Newegg gift card that is really pushing me to upgrade my PC. Please advise me on the best route to go! Here is my current build:

Sorry for the long-winded post, but I'd love to hear some feedback on my plan!


buy a 3770k/2500k and oc the hell out of it?
 

ombz

Member
Yea this is exactly what I'll do. Even if it doesn't make a noticeable performance difference right now, it would be aggravating to find it bottlenecks a future upgrade. I may be able to talk Newegg into waving the restocking fee based on the wording of asus's website (claims "2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8, gray)") which in hindsight I suppose they mean x16 in length but I assumed both would be x16 based on how they position the board. One of those frustratingly mundane problems haha.

Yeah it can be unclear what speed the second full length slot runs at with one gpu unless you read the manual.

I would definitely go for it if you can wave the restocking fee. You should be aware though that even with the offset in the NH-D15S, it still runs a little close to the backplate of the gpu when you have it set in. I don't think it is a problem though.

This is a picture of my NH-D15S in a Maximus Gene VIII-
IMG_1727.jpg
 
Hi all,

Don't mean to be a burden in amidst all of the technical speak so I'll keep this brief.

Thinking about building my first PC and was wondering if anyone has any links to a good layman's guide about what it's all composed of and such. I know a little bit about computers but I want to learn more about the enthusiast side, gain some good knowledge, and be able to create my own system, maintain it, and get the best performance possible from its components.


I've bookmarked the videos in the OP about building the actual system but I'm looking for some decent tutorial videos explaining the components from a base level so I can begin the understand the whole rigmarole completely. Plus audio-only versions would be nice, too, so I can listen to them in work and study up!

Any help would be brilliant.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/build-your-own-pc,2601.html

This explains all the parts and what they do.
 
Hi all,

Don't mean to be a burden in amidst all of the technical speak so I'll keep this brief.

Thinking about building my first PC and was wondering if anyone has any links to a good layman's guide about what it's all composed of and such. I know a little bit about computers but I want to learn more about the enthusiast side, gain some good knowledge, and be able to create my own system, maintain it, and get the best performance possible from its components.


I've bookmarked the videos in the OP about building the actual system but I'm looking for some decent tutorial videos explaining the components from a base level so I can begin the understand the whole rigmarole completely. Plus audio-only versions would be nice, too, so I can listen to them in work and study up!

Any help would be brilliant.


Also Google "linus tech tips as fast as possible" they have quick and easy explanation videos of random topics.
 
Alright guys.

I posted a bit ago about advice on a build and I've now started to actually get all the components. However, in an effort to save a bit of money I'm considering cutting the SSD. This is probably a heretical move, but as far as I'm aware it's primary benefit is to speed up access time, which I'm not too worried about.

Would it cause too much trouble to migrate to an SSD later on if I fancy it, or should I just go all in with an SSD straight out?

Don't cut out the SSD, it is an essential component. If I was in your shoes i'd just buy the hd later, or maybe pick up an external drive for all your data.
 
I was getting the itch to build a PC so I went and tinkered on pcpartpicker.com and put together something that seemed to look ok to my novice eyes (I had no compatibility issues, but some stuff I picked probably weren't that great). The thing is, I want to build something that will last me many many years, and I want it to be quiet and small. Price came to about 1500 bucks.

But, I'll be honest, I didn't want to build it myself because it would be the first pc I'd build since the mid 90s, and the case is small so I would probably have issues with cable management. So, I went and searched for a website that would make a custom PC using my case of choice (the Fractal Design Core 500, because it is small, doesn't have lights or windows, and is very simple). I picked all the same parts as pcpartpicker.com, and I ended up with the price of 2600 bucks!

I mean, I understand the need for a markup, but that just seemed ridiculous.
 
I have a $250 Newegg gift card that is really pushing me to upgrade my PC. Please advise me on the best route to go! Here is my current build:

i3-2100
BIOSTAR TZ68A+ LGA 1155
GTX 960 2GB
500GB HDD
250GB SSD
EVGA 500B PSU
8GB RAM
Rosewill Challenger

I have a monitor, a mouse, a keyboard, and Windows 10 already. I want to salvage all of those, of course, as well as the HDD, the SSD, the PSU, and the case.

Now, the $250 Newegg gift card can effectively buy me this sweet EVGA GTX 1060 6GB.

For my processor, motherboard, and RAM, I've decided on this combo (I need a new motherboard):

i5-6500 for $205
MSI B150M Mortar for $90
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB DDR4 2400 for $70

Meaning the final tally after the gift card and shipping and taxes is $365.

After the upgrade, here is what the build would look like in PC Part Picker.

How big of an improvement would I see over my current build at 1080p gaming? Are those pretty much the most cost-effective parts I can upgrade to? Any idea if that PC would rival the Neo?

And finally, the only compatibility issue would be: "MSI B150M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard has an onboard USB 3.0 header, but the Rosewill CHALLENGER ATX Mid Tower Case does not have front panel USB 3.0 ports."

If I can save $50 by not having to buy a new case I'd like to, so I hope that isn't a deal-breaker. Thoughts?

Sorry for the long-winded post, but I'd love to hear some feedback on my plan!

That would definitely be a massive upgrade for you. The 1060 will give you a great deal of image quality and fps improvement. Your computer would be much better than a Neo.

I would suggest spending alittle extra for the k version and z170 motherboard, but if you are dead set against overclocking, those parts are great and will serve you very well.

About the case: you will just have to use the usb3 ports on the back, maybe get a hub and attach from there. Or i'm sure there are 5.25 bay usb3 setups you can get if it you want. But if you don't feel like upgrading cases, you don't have to.
 
Hi y'all

This community has helped me a lot building my first ever desktop and it still runs great to this day. However, it is getting old, having passed 5 years this summer. So with some upcoming games I'm wondering what my options are.

The main components are an i5 - 2500K, standard clock, 8 gb of ram and a 580 GTX. Can I get away with just getting a 1070x or something similar if I want to play say Dishonored 2, Forza Horizon 3 and battlefield 1? I'm playing only at 1080p nor am I looking to push everything to the edge, but it would be nice to get something more than medium.

I have your same build basically and yesterday I put in a 1070. My jaw has been on the floor since. It's running everything on the highest settings with ease. I played Witcher 3 on XB1 and it is like a different game maxed out on PC. I have yet to OC my 2500K as well that is next on my list but I need a cooler first. After that I'm thinking a 1440p g sync monitor.
 
GPU Clearance with HDD Cage: 294mm
GPU Clearance without HDD Cage: 406.2mm

Zotac Amp Extreme GTX 1080 length: 325mm

It is 2.5 PCIE lanes thick, meaning the PCI slot below the GPU might be obstructed and unable to be used.

Looking at your board, that means one of the PCIE 4x slots will be unusable when the GPU is installed due to its overhang.

Thanks, yeah they just aren't going to fit. I will go Titan X pascal instead.
 

TheSeks

Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
Small-form GPUs have comparatively limited overclocking headroom, but other than that, no.

Then bought. I'll worry about the overclock problems if future titles need my CPU to be overclocked along with the GPU.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
That would definitely be a massive upgrade for you. The 1060 will give you a great deal of image quality and fps improvement. Your computer would be much better than a Neo.

I would suggest spending alittle extra for the k version and z170 motherboard, but if you are dead set against overclocking, those parts are great and will serve you very well.

About the case: you will just have to use the usb3 ports on the back, maybe get a hub and attach from there. Or i'm sure there are 5.25 bay usb3 setups you can get if it you want. But if you don't feel like upgrading cases, you don't have to.

Fuck yeah! That's what I wanted to hear. I've never been into the overclocking scene, which is why I opted for the non-K versions. Thanks, though. So yeah, that motherboard is alright, too?
 
I was getting the itch to build a PC so I went and tinkered on pcpartpicker.com and put together something that seemed to look ok to my novice eyes (I had no compatibility issues, but some stuff I picked probably weren't that great). The thing is, I want to build something that will last me many many years, and I want it to be quiet and small. Price came to about 1500 bucks.

But, I'll be honest, I didn't want to build it myself because it would be the first pc I'd build since the mid 90s, and the case is small so I would probably have issues with cable management. So, I went and searched for a website that would make a custom PC using my case of choice (the Fractal Design Core 500, because it is small, doesn't have lights or windows, and is very simple). I picked all the same parts as pcpartpicker.com, and I ended up with the price of 2600 bucks!

I mean, I understand the need for a markup, but that just seemed ridiculous.

Build it, bro. Way easier than it was in the '90s. Depending on where you live, I'm sure someone would be willing to pitch in.
 

jfoul

Member
Sorry about that.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/StrikeNinja24/saved/#view=JCNbt6

I'm open to a better suggestion.

I would consider the Intel 600p (M.2 NVMe SSD) over the Samsung SSD. These just released, and are going to shakeup pricing in the market.

PCPer Review

Final Thoughts

Intel has unleashed their 3D NAND across the majority of their product lines, and it has brought prices down considerably. Along with it came the 600p, their first M.2 SSD. Powered by a Silicon Motion controller, and with a portion of its TLC flash operating in SLC mode, it performs well in all typical usage scenarios. Intel has a habit of being laser focused on a specific set of use cases for their testing and validation, and that seems to have unfortunately let an issue slip through. Sustained write speeds exceeding 120 MB/s for a long enough period to completely fill the SLC cache appear to put the 600p into a data shuffling frenzy that ultimately results in *very* inconsistent performance. As a result, all benchmarks that involve sustained write operations turn in poor figures. Fortunately for Intel, most use cases will never result in a full cache, as the 600p does its best to empty it as quickly as possible. While the 600p did poorly in a lot of our legacy benchmarks, we must understand that it was not an SSD designed or optimized to run heavy-write benchmarks. The answer to this problem is to build better benchmarks that more closely behave like real-world use. We have developed such tests, and the 600p did will in them, as it would do well in the vast majority of use cases out there. Mobile and even most desktop users will rarely if ever fill their primary SSD with >6GB (16GB for 512GB model, 32GB for 1TB) of data at >120 MB/s, mainly because most systems just can't source that much information from any other input at that high of a rate. So long as you are mindful of that particular limitation, the Intel SSD 600p is a great SSD for the price.
 
Looking for recommendations on a case for the following build -

i3-6100t with ARCTIC's Alpine 11 Passive (fanless & silver)
Motherboard undecided - while I know it is extreme overkill I am leaning towards the MSI Z170A MPOWER for aesthetic reasons.
Storage - m2 Solid state (either 850 evo or 480s)
Memory - Crucial ballistic sport (chosen for silver theme)
Graphics - Evga 1070 SC
Power Supply - SilverStone Nightjar Platinum 520W Fanless (Silver theme)

For the cases I am leaning towards the following -
- Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX (Silver)
- Phanteks Eclipse P400S

I have used the Define r5 in the past so looking for something different, also found Corsair cases to have a cheap feeling.

Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
 

luoapp

Member
Edited my post to show my current old-ass motherboard. I will absolutely need to upgrade that to upgrade the processor, video card, and RAM.

I just don't see why you have to buy a new m/b, unless your new-PC itchy has to be scratched. Even on stock clock, 2500k = 90% 6500, 3770k = 135% 6500.
 
Looking for recommendations on a case for the following build -

i3-6100t with ARCTIC's Alpine 11 Passive (fanless & silver)
Motherboard undecided - while I know it is extreme overkill I am leaning towards the MSI Z170A MPOWER for aesthetic reasons.
Storage - m2 Solid state (either 850 evo or 480s)
Memory - Crucial ballistic sport (chosen for silver theme)
Graphics - Evga 1070 SC
Power Supply - SilverStone Nightjar Platinum 520W Fanless (Silver theme)

For the cases I am leaning towards the following -
- Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX (Silver)
- Phanteks Eclipse P400S

I have used the Define r5 in the past so looking for something different, also found Corsair cases to have a cheap feeling.

Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
You should definitely get an i5 to pair with the 1070. Lots of places where you could lose a bit of money to offset the cost.

Don't know about the cases, sorry. Will say though that my phanteks enthoo pro has been ace for me.
 

Wounded

Member
Potentially a silly question...how dark is a good IPS monitor? I don't mean light bleed etc, but how dark can IPS monitors get?

I ask since I have an IPS monitor myself and if I were to switch off all light sources other than my Monitor it would still noticeably be casting light while displaying a black screen.

I'm aware it wouldn't be OLED level blacks, but I'm curious as to what an example of good blacks in an IPS monitor look like.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Potentially a silly question...how dark is a good IPS monitor? I don't mean light bleed etc, but how dark can IPS monitors get?

I ask since I have an IPS monitor myself and if I were to switch off all light sources other than my Monitor it would still noticeably be casting light while displaying a black screen.

I'm aware it wouldn't be OLED level blacks, but I'm curious as to what an example of good blacks in an IPS monitor look like.

The best black I've ever seen on a high end work station IPS screen (we use in our design department) is still horrible compared to the best I've seen from some VA FALD TV screens and of course can't touch our oled studio monitors. As you say, in a dark room your basically getting a bright dark grey screen, just the nature of the beast with the tech.
 

d[-_-]b

Banned
ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboard
Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B2, 80+ BRONZE 750W
Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
NZXT Source 530 Full Tower Chassis
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory

Any suggestions, I have a 750 evo that I got for $4 sitting around, i'm still not too sure about the motherboard, looked at the GA-Z170X-UD5 or this ASUS Z170-A.
 
You should definitely get an i5 to pair with the 1070. Lots of places where you could lose a bit of money to offset the cost.

Don't know about the cases, sorry. Will say though that my phanteks enthoo pro has been ace for me.

Only going with the i3t due to the fanless CPU cooler, I am only gaming at 1080p I think the i3 while not giving me the best performance available will still be decent enough.

Have never built in a phanteks case, most likely will give them a try next
 

Momentary

Banned
What system, it think I may mimic your build if you don't mind :)

I don't mind, but it's a custom loop using hard lines and components from EKWB. You'll have to cut the tubing and buy the right fittings for it. The fittings part took some trial and error and cost me a little bit, but if you want I can put together a parts list of what it took for me to achieve the custom loop.

If you're not looking to spend too much money it would probably be best to go with an AIO. EKWB actually sells some higher end ones if you don't like offerings from the more mainstream companies.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/aio
 

Shouta

Member
Gonna be upgrading my desktop after 4-ish years. This will probably be used for another 4-5 years as well. If anyone has recommendations for substitute pieces (or incompatibilities with the pieces I picked, lol), I'd love to hear it. Price isn't a huge deal but if I can save a decent amount on it but still get the same performance, it'd be nice.

Fractal Design Core 1000 Black Mini-ATX Case
MSI B150M Mobo
i5-6500
G.Skill Ripjaws 16gb ram DDR4 2133
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6gb
Samsung 850 Evo 500gb SSD
EVGA SuperNova 650w PSU

I have a Bluray drive, a capture card, and a 1TB HDD I'm gonna take from my old computer that I'll reuse in this.
 

Jyrii

Banned
This is not really a PC building question, but I didn't want to start a new thread.

I have 16:10 display and 16:9 TV. I generally use the TV as my primary, but every now and then switch to the display. Going back and forth using windows+p will mess up my desktop icons and window sizes.

This has been an issue since Windows 7, so Microsoft isn't going to fix this. Does anyone else have the same issue, and is there any external way to bypass/fix it?
 

ehead

Member
Gonna be upgrading my desktop after 4-ish years. This will probably be used for another 4-5 years as well. If anyone has recommendations for substitute pieces (or incompatibilities with the pieces I picked, lol), I'd love to hear it. Price isn't a huge deal but if I can save a decent amount on it but still get the same performance, it'd be nice.

Fractal Design Core 1000 Black Mini-ATX Case
MSI B150M Mobo
i5-6500
G.Skill Ripjaws 16gb ram DDR4 2133
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6gb
Samsung 850 Evo 500gb SSD
EVGA SuperNova 650w PSU

I have a Bluray drive, a capture card, and a 1TB HDD I'm gonna take from my old computer that I'll reuse in this.

As always, I suggest getting the K-CPU (i5-6600k) and a Z170 motherboard. You can easily clock the CPU to 4.0GHz. Just have to find a good compatible cooler with your case.
 

Shouta

Member
As always, I suggest getting the K-CPU (i5-6600k) and a Z170 motherboard. You can easily clock the CPU to 4.0GHz. Just have to find a good compatible cooler with your case.

I thought about that but considering I'm going with an matx, cooler options would be more limited, no? I also don't know if I desperately need the extra GHz either.
 
You can probably get cheaper ram then add the saved value to get a K-CPU and mobo for overclocking. But then you'd have to buy a separate cooler.

This is true. Ram is constantly on sale I got my brother 16 GB of gskill 3000mhz ddr4 for 60. Check out neweggs' daily and email deals.
 

soco

Member
This is true. Ram is constantly on sale I got my brother 16 GB of gskill 3000mhz ddr4 for 60. Check out neweggs' daily and email deals.

And from what I can determine, overclocking ram on low and mid range pc is generally not worth it. Go for the lowest latency at the max speed your moboard supports. Put your money into a better gfx card or faster processor.
 
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