Bloodember
Member
Sounds like a RAM issue. Test your RAM, one stick at a time.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Sounds like a RAM issue. Test your RAM, one stick at a time.
Hi just wondering but my pc after downclocking the cpu(since it crashed randomly, stress tested it and got up to 100C) it started to crash 10 seconds into turning on the pc and constantly repeats don't know the right search words so wondering if someone knows how to fix?
Edit: ok turned off the psu and got into a menu so hope I can get it to work.
Edit 2: K fixed it next time I know just turn the psu off and on.
Edit: ok turned off the psu and got into a menu so hope I can get it to work.
Edit 2: K fixed it next time I know just turn the psu off and on.
Any point in getting a sound card these days?
For reference this is the speakers I'm getting. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitec...D=1&siteID=8BacdVP0GFs-DrvNtCDvQ2q2K8TWoEaN7w
For reference this is the speakers I'm getting. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitec...D=1&siteID=8BacdVP0GFs-DrvNtCDvQ2q2K8TWoEaN7w
lostsupper
Banned
Only is edge use cases. If you don't know if you need one, you don't need one. And definitely not for those speakers.
Oh you didn't increase the PCIE Freq in BIOS by any chance? I remember you could do that on LGA1366. Some guides recommended 101Mhz, maybe that broke it.
Noctua stuff is very good, and good value for money considering the fans that come with their coolers are at the £15 mark on their own. Have a look at benchmark comparisons to decide the price vs performance ratio that best fits your budget.
Rest of the parts are solid, but I would highly recommend investing in a nice case like a Fractal Design Arc Mini R2. Their lower end cases leave a lot to be desired, and I did the same thing in my first build, then regretted it. Now I get a good case and run multiple gens through it.
The Hamburglar
Banned
well im in windows with the card 'working' but it is still using basic microsoft drivers. I can't seem to find any pci or display drivers in device manager to enable to turn on nvidia shit.
not sure, system came OC from the vendor, I never did it.
Just go download the latest drivers from the NVidia site and install them. Job done.
Load up their OC profile and take some photos of the settings, that will help us work out possible reasons why the OC may have broken it.
The Hamburglar
Banned
I have the nvidia drivers already installed, that's why I'm confused lol.
edit When I try to reinstall it fails.
well after a sweep and another fresh install, all is working now.
it must have been the bios causing the issue. I do need to OC my cpu again though, don't want to lose ant performance on that end.
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/PJgGLD
CPU: Intel Core i7-6800K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($426.59 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($114.88 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI X99A GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($305.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($274.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.94 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($118.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-2209 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($80.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Speakers: Logitech Z533 60W 2.1ch Speakers ($79.99 @ Best Buy)
Okay this is 99% my final build. If any other recommendations it would be helpful.
CPU: Intel Core i7-6800K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($426.59 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($114.88 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI X99A GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($305.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($274.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.94 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($118.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-2209 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($80.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Speakers: Logitech Z533 60W 2.1ch Speakers ($79.99 @ Best Buy)
Okay this is 99% my final build. If any other recommendations it would be helpful.
Bloodember
Member
You don't need thermal paste, the X61 comes with it pre installed. The rest looks good though. Why you going X99?
I don't game all that much. Here and there so I figured I go mid tier. Pretty sure something better will come in a few months or beginning of next year if I need more power for whatever. My budget is $4k. I'll spend the rest on either a new chair or another monitor.
Elven_Star
Member
You have a really weird idea of mid-tier...
Divert some budget from the mobo into the speakers unless you're really trying to OC the hell out of that 6800k, even then you'll get far more enjoyment out of a nice set of speakers imo. You already own a nice mouse to pair with that keyboard? dont see one listed.
I have a mice in mind but it's not listed.
What do you suggest for speakers? Don't really want a 5.1. Something more simple like that.
What about this for the motherboard? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157540&ignorebbr=1
What do you suggest for speakers? Don't really want a 5.1. Something more simple like that.
What about this for the motherboard? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157540&ignorebbr=1
Kudo
Member
That's very much supreme high-tier computer in terms of budget, and why 165Hz if you don't game? Just for the smoothness on desktop?
Could probably get IPS with 60Hz for half the price.
Get another set of memory for Quad Channel maybe? Or swap the 2x 16GB to 4x 8GB, doubt you will ever need more memory than that, and even if you do there's still free space up to 64GB with that setup.
All parts are pretty much best you can get so nothing else to recommend, have fun with it.
If you're doing completely new setup you could also use headphones and microphone if you have any need for them, something like ATH-M50x and Samson Meteor/Blue Yeti maybe?
Try yourself.
A good guide here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/538439/guide-to-overclocking-the-core-i7-920-or-930-to-4-0ghz
A common config is 191mhz bclk, 21x multi for 4Ghz. Vcore around 1.30v. High Load Line calibration.
We can probably work off the vendors OC config if you get some photos of it loaded up.
Good point, thanks. This is my first build so I understood that I need water cooling if I'm going to be OCing a lot. It's a relatively quiet machine due to the sound dampening foam inside the case, and I'm expecting a GRID+ soon to be able to go to lower speeds on the case fans when idling.
A custom loop is a great solution and I love the prospect of an extremely quiet and cool machine, but I'm afraid to try it.
Hopefully when I have more courage in tinkering with the build.
Elven_Star
Member
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: GeIL SUPER LUCE 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 470 4GB NITRO+ Video Card ($209.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Deepcool DUKASE ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.41 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($58.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.7 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.15 @ OutletPC)
Total: $644.99
This is what I ended up with. Nothing crazy, but hopefully stronger than Neo
Motherboard: MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: GeIL SUPER LUCE 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 470 4GB NITRO+ Video Card ($209.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Deepcool DUKASE ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.41 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($58.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.7 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.15 @ OutletPC)
Total: $644.99
This is what I ended up with. Nothing crazy, but hopefully stronger than Neo
I cannot speak for that mobo but it looks like it may downclock your ram choice of 3200 though, as for speaker recommendations, a pair of JBL LSR305's or AudioEngine A2+ if space is a concern. I believe either can be had for about $250.
Wow, that's a lot of voltage. I've been running my 5820k at 4.4Ghz with 1.2v for a year. Just Broadwell-E just not OC as well or is it just your chip?
I have that same motherboard and it's been rock solid. Go for it.
Also, in your build, you should swap out the Corsair power supply for the EVGA Supernova 850w P2. It is a far superior unit that will last for years no matter your overclock or future hardware configuration is. It is on sale right now for only $115 after using the coupon code "EVGASEPWK1" and additional $15 mail in rebate.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817438056
As for the monitor, if you have the budget, step up to this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009893
I'm using it right now and 4K is gorgeous. Since you aren't going to be doing much gaming, I'm not sure you need the 144hz of the PG279Q, but the difference in resolution is going to be instantly noticeable for productivity and image quality.
I've also got one of these, but it is more for immersive gaming and media viewing.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236717
ASUS makes great stuff. Go for it.
I'm actually thinking about picking up a pair of AudioEngine A2+ or A5+. Any recommendations for a sub woofer to pair them with?
King Gilga
Member
Can anyone identify the mouspad in this video?
And anyone have any suggestions on good metal/glass/hardsurface type mouspads?
I have a cloth one now, it's okay but it's starting to curl at the bottom, so I'm looking.
And anyone have any suggestions on good metal/glass/hardsurface type mouspads?
I have a cloth one now, it's okay but it's starting to curl at the bottom, so I'm looking.
King Gilga
Member
Cheers mate.
I've never had studio monitors before, so quick question for someone who knows.
If I buy a pair of JBL LSR305s,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F1DEI8G/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Is this the only cable I need to hook them up to my PC?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
If I buy a pair of JBL LSR305s,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F1DEI8G/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Is this the only cable I need to hook them up to my PC?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I think I'm going with the JBLs. Thanks for recommending. It seems perfect for my setup.
I don't need something that will blow up the neighborhood just something good enough for my PC room.
This is my updated list.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6800K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($426.59 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($114.88 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($226.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($305.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($274.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.94 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($118.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.50 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-2209 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($80.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Speakers: JBL LSR305 82W 2ch Speakers
I don't need something that will blow up the neighborhood just something good enough for my PC room.
This is my updated list.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6800K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($426.59 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($114.88 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($226.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($305.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($274.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.94 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($118.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.50 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-2209 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($80.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Speakers: JBL LSR305 82W 2ch Speakers
Remove the thermal paste. The Kraken X61 comes with it pre-applied.
You can also get legitimate Windows 10 Home keys from Reddit Software Swap for only $40.
Take the money savings and pick up this superior CAS 14 latency Quad Channel memory.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232207
Maroon Gamer
Member
A friend of my friend bought it. Great card for the money.
Yea pretty sure thats all you need, you may want balanced cables though.
Edit: hmm you may need a DAC to use balanced cables, those ones you have listed should get the job done without an amp just fine.
Hope you like them, seeing gorgeous displays like the Swift and 8 grand tv's paired with garbage audio is all too common.
Thanks! Ordered them. Should be here Tuesday. Can't wait.
I have a really nice audio setup for my home theater area. It's high time my PC got some love in that department too.
TetraGenesis
Member
Hey guys, I was hoping to get your help. You are all masters and I am but a peasant.
My roommate has a grand that he's looking to put down on a PC and I'm trying to convince him not to buy some underpowered, overpriced prefab. I've told him I can build him a much better PC for the price. Problem is, I've never actually built a PC and my experience/knowledge is only so much more than his.
I was pushing the Great build of Haz's PC Build Sheet, with upgrades to an i7 (he wants an i7 specifically) and an 8GB 470 (or maybe a 480 if I can push him to drop the 50 extra).
Is this a good build as described? What should we know about purchasing parts, assembly, etc.
Any miscellaneous help would be highly appreciated.
EDIT: He also wanted to go to a local computer store in Chicago to get the parts because they price match and he figures that's better than waiting on newegg to ship all the individual pieces, like I suggested. What do you think?
My roommate has a grand that he's looking to put down on a PC and I'm trying to convince him not to buy some underpowered, overpriced prefab. I've told him I can build him a much better PC for the price. Problem is, I've never actually built a PC and my experience/knowledge is only so much more than his.
I was pushing the Great build of Haz's PC Build Sheet, with upgrades to an i7 (he wants an i7 specifically) and an 8GB 470 (or maybe a 480 if I can push him to drop the 50 extra).
Is this a good build as described? What should we know about purchasing parts, assembly, etc.
Any miscellaneous help would be highly appreciated.
EDIT: He also wanted to go to a local computer store in Chicago to get the parts because they price match and he figures that's better than waiting on newegg to ship all the individual pieces, like I suggested. What do you think?
So I've been using a Gigabyte Mini OC 4GB GTX970 in my media centre hooked up to tv...was playing Witcher 3 last night and lasted around 5minutes because the fan kicked in (it just has one) and it went into overdrive.
So no more.
Thoughts on this:
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/34690/msi-corsair-geforce-gtx-980-ti-hydro-gfx-liquid-cooled-6gb
As an upgrade? I'm hoping it fits into my Fractal Design Node 605 case if I move some stuff around...
So no more.
Thoughts on this:
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/34690/msi-corsair-geforce-gtx-980-ti-hydro-gfx-liquid-cooled-6gb
As an upgrade? I'm hoping it fits into my Fractal Design Node 605 case if I move some stuff around...
Cyborgmatt
Member
Heads up for any Asus PG279Q or ACER XB271HU owners. Apparently the monitors are being recalled.
I was just about to grab a PG27Q as well. Not sure how long I should wait before buying one now.
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/50cp0p/asus_pg279q_acer_xb271hu_are_being_recalled_xpost/
I was just about to grab a PG27Q as well. Not sure how long I should wait before buying one now.
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/50cp0p/asus_pg279q_acer_xb271hu_are_being_recalled_xpost/
Thanks for this, I have the PG279Q - been using it steadily the last 4 months...zero issues so maybe I'm lucky!
Pagusas
Elden Member
I've had a node 605 here for test and any card will fit into it so long as you don't have anything blocking it (hdd mounts). Why in the heck would you spend that much on a 980 when you could get a 1080gtx water cooled for less?
Only reason I didn't keep the 605 was during test for my next build I found it wouldn't fit a C14s HSF or any 120mm radiator setups (which I think you'll run into a problem with trying to add water cooling. The left side 120mm mount area will get interfered with by most psu's. The right side you'll find the radiators barbs will hit the motherboard. I've seen some people modify the case to be water friendly.
| Praxis |
Banned
Ordering my Titan X tomorrow, can't wait to try it and finally put my 4K monitor to good use, well other than Overwatch and indie games.
Battlefield 1 can't come soon enough.
Battlefield 1 can't come soon enough.
Pagusas
Elden Member
Because...Australia
Sorry didn't realize Australia
. This was what I was referring to: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876,52934714882,&A=details&Q=Also see my edit about the 605
Sorry didn't realize Australia
Also see my edit about the 605
Perfect thanks! Maybe i'll just pickup a standard 980ti to fit in then.
Appreciate the help.
I caved and bought a VA monitor. I have the X34 to go with my PC, but wanted something as a secondary to play console games on/watch TV on the side.
Went with this one.
For the price seems like a good little thing, and I'm quite excited to see what a VA panel is like, since the worst thing about my X34 is that the blacks are just not good at all.
Went with this one.
For the price seems like a good little thing, and I'm quite excited to see what a VA panel is like, since the worst thing about my X34 is that the blacks are just not good at all.
Pagusas
Elden Member
Truly torn between a Titan x or saving the difference between it and the 1080gtx and put that money towards Volta next year, cause we know the Titan x will get outdated fast.
Glad you decided on the Titan X. You'll love it!
I've been playing games at 4K and they look gorgeous. Actually has the performance head room to do supersampling 8K in Telltale games and 6K in Life is Strange while maintaining 60fps. What a beastly GPU.
Titan X is great for VR, 4K, and 3440x1440 ultrawide. I have all 3.
You can get away with a GTX 1080 otherwise. What will you use it for?
Pagusas
Elden Member
75" 4k htpc gaming in my media room
. Not going to be doing vr. Will be running ultrawide in my office which will be connected to the same computer through an hdmi repeater network I put in to run the length of the house so one computer could run both my home office and media room.75" 4k htpc gaming in my media room
Titan X will be perfect for you then. You will truly be able to play at Ultra settings 4K60.
A GTX 1080 can only do around 40fps at 4K in the most demanding titles.
Look up some benchmarks and pay attention not just average frames, but minimum as well. The Titan X provides a much smoother and most consistent experience.
Don't get caught up in the waiting game for Volta. There is always something around the corner in the tech world. Buy the best you can now and enjoy yourself.
I have 2 Titan X 2015s and I've been debating selling them to get one X 2016. Nice to hear it copes well with 4k though, since I have the 3440x1440 and 4k tv too.
AndersTheSwede
Member
After a month or so of shakedown, I've think I've reached the final end point of my Ncase M1 Build.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: *Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($305.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($650.00)
Power Supply: Corsair SF 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A9 PWM 46.4 CFM 92mm Fan ($20.39 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A9 PWM 46.4 CFM 92mm Fan ($20.39 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-SFNL-24PK-R1 38.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.99 @ B&H)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-SFNL-24PK-R1 38.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.99 @ B&H)
Case Fan: Corsair ML120 Pro 75.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($24.49 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: QNIX QX2710 Matte 27.0" 60Hz Monitor ($248.00)
Keyboard: Corsair K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($128.88 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Mionix NAOS 7000 Wired Optical Mouse ($49.71 @ Amazon)
Other: Ncase M1 V5 ($185.00)
Total: $2282.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-05 00:27 EDT-0400
For those looking to build an M1, I highly recommend the thread on HardOCP.
Build guide that I followed from that forum with some updates of my own:
1. Set all M1 panels aside, including the side bracket and the PSU bracket
2. Assemble MoBo + RAM + CPU + CPU cooler
3. Set fan cables on MoBo. It can be difficult to reach the headers once installed.
4. Install 92mm exhaust fan (if part of your airflow)
5. Install MoBo with M1
6. Install as many cables as possible before mounting the PSU. (Power, Audio, SATA etc.)
7. Install PSU Bracket
8. Install PSU
9. Install SSD's/HDD Tray if you are using it.
Notes:
There's little to no explanation for which screws are for what with the Ncase. But Necere did do this guide online:
http://i.imgur.com/xQJa2KU.png
I've settled on a modest overclock of 4.5Ghz at 1.3v LLC 5. I unfortunately didn't hit the silicon lottery with the 1080, and it doesn't overclock much over the SC clock. It also has noticeable coil whine, though I usually don't find it much of an issue.
I have the QNIX (Korean import panel) overclocked to 96hz, and 1440p of course. (And Nvidia's drivers allow you to overclock panels much easier than AMD) I'm quite impressed with the quality of the panel, and the big difference 96hz affords. It feels so much better just navigating the desktop, and gaming is substantially smoother. I never notice any tearing. It makes me somewhat wonder how much of the 144hz Gsync "godlike" effect is in some ways just getting out of 60hz hell in general. Though I have yet to use one of those panels.
Originally, I tried to use the grey Noctua Redux fans, instead of the NF-A9 as they are quieter and look better, but I've found they just don't produce the static pressure needed to expel air out the top of the M1 effectively. So I swapped them out with NF-A9's and added an ML120 Pro to the side bracket. I'm impressed with the ML120's air flow, and it does operate quietly, but there is still perceptible "bearing" (maglev?) noise in some situations.
I saw absolute peak temps (prime) at the same overclock and fan curve go from ~80c to ~75c. The downside is an increase in noise. At idle it's still almost silent, but when ramped up there is much more air "whoosh". Still, I think I've got a good fan curve set.
For using open non-blower style GPU's in the M1 I HIGHLY recommend using two fans on the bottom set to intake. The air won't do anything for the rest of the case, but it will stop a big card from throttling. I turned them off during testing and very quickly during gaming my 1080 hit 80c and throttled. When I turned them back on, it steadied at the normal 75c.
Pictures of the build: http://imgur.com/a/ErpEl
I came from an old Shuttle running a Core 2 Duo and a 7850... feels good.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: *Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($305.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($650.00)
Power Supply: Corsair SF 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A9 PWM 46.4 CFM 92mm Fan ($20.39 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A9 PWM 46.4 CFM 92mm Fan ($20.39 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-SFNL-24PK-R1 38.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.99 @ B&H)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-SFNL-24PK-R1 38.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.99 @ B&H)
Case Fan: Corsair ML120 Pro 75.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($24.49 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: QNIX QX2710 Matte 27.0" 60Hz Monitor ($248.00)
Keyboard: Corsair K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($128.88 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Mionix NAOS 7000 Wired Optical Mouse ($49.71 @ Amazon)
Other: Ncase M1 V5 ($185.00)
Total: $2282.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-05 00:27 EDT-0400
For those looking to build an M1, I highly recommend the thread on HardOCP.
Build guide that I followed from that forum with some updates of my own:
1. Set all M1 panels aside, including the side bracket and the PSU bracket
2. Assemble MoBo + RAM + CPU + CPU cooler
3. Set fan cables on MoBo. It can be difficult to reach the headers once installed.
4. Install 92mm exhaust fan (if part of your airflow)
5. Install MoBo with M1
6. Install as many cables as possible before mounting the PSU. (Power, Audio, SATA etc.)
7. Install PSU Bracket
8. Install PSU
9. Install SSD's/HDD Tray if you are using it.
Notes:
- If I'd installed PSU before power cables, I'd be unable to finish assembly.
- If I'd installed CPU cooler after MoBo+M1 marriage it would be much more difficult to do it.
- The PSU bracket needs to be put after MoBo+M1 marriage (otherwise its unable to put MoBo inside)
- Install PSU bracket and PSU separately. Much easier.
- Install wall-mounted SSD's after SFX PSU (otherwise you are unable to fit PSU).
- For some coolers/orientations, it may be very difficult to access the rear 92mm fan. Best to install first. I have the U9S in a "vertical" configuration and was able to access it
- I also have a 2nd SSD mounted on the front panel. The SF450 PSU comes with right-angled HDD power cables. This made it very difficult to mount the drive "plugs up" on the front panel. Reverse it and run the cable up from the bottom opening above the front aux panel.
There's little to no explanation for which screws are for what with the Ncase. But Necere did do this guide online:
http://i.imgur.com/xQJa2KU.png
I've settled on a modest overclock of 4.5Ghz at 1.3v LLC 5. I unfortunately didn't hit the silicon lottery with the 1080, and it doesn't overclock much over the SC clock. It also has noticeable coil whine, though I usually don't find it much of an issue.
I have the QNIX (Korean import panel) overclocked to 96hz, and 1440p of course. (And Nvidia's drivers allow you to overclock panels much easier than AMD) I'm quite impressed with the quality of the panel, and the big difference 96hz affords. It feels so much better just navigating the desktop, and gaming is substantially smoother. I never notice any tearing. It makes me somewhat wonder how much of the 144hz Gsync "godlike" effect is in some ways just getting out of 60hz hell in general. Though I have yet to use one of those panels.
Originally, I tried to use the grey Noctua Redux fans, instead of the NF-A9 as they are quieter and look better, but I've found they just don't produce the static pressure needed to expel air out the top of the M1 effectively. So I swapped them out with NF-A9's and added an ML120 Pro to the side bracket. I'm impressed with the ML120's air flow, and it does operate quietly, but there is still perceptible "bearing" (maglev?) noise in some situations.
I saw absolute peak temps (prime) at the same overclock and fan curve go from ~80c to ~75c. The downside is an increase in noise. At idle it's still almost silent, but when ramped up there is much more air "whoosh". Still, I think I've got a good fan curve set.
For using open non-blower style GPU's in the M1 I HIGHLY recommend using two fans on the bottom set to intake. The air won't do anything for the rest of the case, but it will stop a big card from throttling. I turned them off during testing and very quickly during gaming my 1080 hit 80c and throttled. When I turned them back on, it steadied at the normal 75c.
Pictures of the build: http://imgur.com/a/ErpEl
I came from an old Shuttle running a Core 2 Duo and a 7850... feels good.
BIGWORM
Member
What are some headphones you guys and gals recommend? I'm steering away from gaming headsets, moving on from a Siberia v2 that's seen better days, to a dedicated mic/headphone setup. I've already purchased the Blue Snowball, and it'll be on the way tomorrow. I'm looking for a solid pair of open back headphones.
The last pair of dedicated headphones I bought were the Senssheiser HD202 back around 2012 lol. Outside of the mic, my budget is around $75-$100. Thanks for any suggestions.
The last pair of dedicated headphones I bought were the Senssheiser HD202 back around 2012 lol. Outside of the mic, my budget is around $75-$100. Thanks for any suggestions.
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