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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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It's finally finished. Finally got the last case fan installed and found out I hadn't removed the plastic from the top of the GPU. :p

9TGUbiz.jpg

Yeah... I don't think theres any airflow involved with that cooler.
 
It's finally finished. Finally got the last case fan installed and found out I hadn't removed the plastic from the top of the GPU. :p

9TGUbiz.jpg


Specs:

Win10 Home 64 bit
ASUS X99/USB 3.1 mobo
GTX 1080 Strix OC Edition
i7-5820k 4,0 GHz OC'd
32 GB DDR4-2667 RAM.

I upgraded from a GTX 690, 12 GB RAM DDR3-665 and i7-2600.

The PSU is from the old PC, it's a HX 1050 80 Plus, so no need to upgrade that.

The big beast in there is the Noctua NH-D15 cooler.

Suprisingly, even with that big ass CPU cooler and the GPU there's still a lot of space left.

You should rotate the cooler 90 degrees clockwise. I have the same cooler, it's a good one but this setup limits its effectiveness.
 

kennah

Member
How does g sync work in this situation since I doubt I will be able to hit anywhere close to 144FPS unless I'm playing Blizzard games?

GSync is intended for the 60-90 variable frames to give a smoother experience when your computer CAN'T sustain 144Hz. If you can do 144Hz all the time, then you don't need GSync.
 

amardilo

Member
Does anyone know if there are any HDR G-Sync montiors out there (24" - 30" 1440p prefered but 1080p would be OK)?

I can't see any for sale that have both.
 
I currently have an i7 2600k with this Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard

I'm sure it's been asked a million times in this thread, but what's my best upgrade path currently? The biggest things I'm looking for are:

1) More efficient power usage
2) More SATA ports

....and that's pretty much it. More power is obviously always nice, but I'm actually pretty happy with the performance of my current system. Maybe I should just purchase a SATA expander (if they exist)?
 
First thing I try with my Titan X is the Battlefield 1 beta at 4K, but the fps is dropping into the low 50's and high 40's often. This is with no AA, everything turned down to high, no HBAO and resolution scale at 42. Bit disappointed to be honest.
 

luoapp

Member
I currently have an i7 2600k with this

....and that's pretty much it. More power is obviously always nice, but I'm actually pretty happy with the performance of my current system. Maybe I should just purchase a SATA expander (if they exist)?

PCIE-> SATA adaptor can be had for <20.
 

Elven_Star

Member
First thing I try with my Titan X is the Battlefield 1 beta at 4K, but the fps is dropping into the low 50's and high 40's often. This is with no AA, everything turned down to high, no HBAO and resolution scale at 42. Bit disappointed to be honest.

It's Beta. The final game will be much more optimized... hopefully. Don't forget that it should run on consoles, too.
 
GSync is intended for the 60-90 variable frames to give a smoother experience when your computer CAN'T sustain 144Hz. If you can do 144Hz all the time, then you don't need GSync.

I'm assuming it helps with drops under 60 as well? Since I'll be running at 1440p im sure that will happen from time to time
 

enewtabie

Member
So I'm trying to find a desk( wife is sick of the new pc sitting on kitchen table). I think the Linnmon from Ikea in Gray would be ok. The 47" seems fine but not sure if I'll have enough room once I sit my S340 case on it. Recommendations? Thanks

Neogaf has really helped me so far so Thanks guys!
 
So I'm trying to find a desk( wife is sick of the new pc sitting on kitchen table). I think the Linnmon from Ikea in Gray would be ok. The 47" seems fine but not sure if I'll have enough room once I sit my S340 case on it. Recommendations? Thanks

Neogaf has really helped me so far so Thanks guys!

I have the S340 and I am also needing a new desk since I just moved. I'm actually planning on building my own desk sometime next week.

I'm going to buy a 2x4 plywood from Home Depot, stain it, and then put it on top of two sawhorses.

I was a bit inspired by my wife (who is really into the industrial look) and found a bunch of similar desks and tables online: http://www.guidepatterns.com/18-diy-sawhorse-desk-plans.php

Parts I am planning to use:

HDX-1 Compartment Folding Sawhorse x2

3/4"x2"x4" Birch Plywood x1

Maybe I will nail/screw the plywood to the sawhorses, but I might just lay it on top and simply leave it there. I'm still unsure as to the length I want the desk to be, since I am still working on the room the desk will be in and am still figuring out how much space I want the desk to take up.
 

Rizific

Member
Decision time. Do I go with a 1440p G-sync monitor or a 1080p one? I'm running a 1070 FTW edition with a 2500K.

i have a 1070 paired with a 1440p monitor. cant say im disappointed at all. although i feel like the difference between 1080 and 1440 isnt as huge as some make it out to be. or it could just be that im already used to 1440? ill probably have to set up a side by side thing with my wifes pc to really get a good look at the actual difference.
 
For the past several months or so my TV would randomly go blank and say "no Input" while the PC was still on and running and would the only way to fix it would be to reboot the PC. I recently got a new i7-6700K (OC'ed to 4.4ghz), 16GB RAM (1.35V), and a new mobo.

I was just gaming with the Vive and it cut out again, twice actually.

Is this an issue with my GPU (Titan X Maxwell)? Or is this a PSU issue? I have a 660W Seasonic PSU I bought in 2012. Trying to figure out how to isolate the issue. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 

Rizific

Member
Presonus Eris 4.5
Audioengine A2
M-Audio AV40

Presonus Eris is usually around $199 but $174 on Amazon at the moment. I bought this pair for my wife a few months ago and she loves it.
M-Audio is the cheapest of the three at around $150. Its little brother, the AV32 (previously AV30) is $79 right now on Amazon.

question about monitor speakers in general. currently i have an asus xonar dg and logitech z623 2.1 system. can i use (for example) the m-audio speakers in conjunction with the logitech subwoofer? im assuming ill need a rca to 3.5mm cable which will go into the "front" port on the sound card and a regular 3.5mm cable from logitech sub to the "sub" port on the soundcard. will that work? will it be an appreciable upgrade?
 

luoapp

Member
For the past several months or so my TV would randomly go blank and say "no Input" while the PC was still on and running and would the only way to fix it would be to reboot the PC. I recently got a new i7-6700K (OC'ed to 4.4ghz), 16GB RAM (1.35V), and a new mobo.

I was just gaming with the Vive and it cut out again, twice actually.

Is this an issue with my GPU (Titan X Maxwell)? Or is this a PSU issue? I have a 660W Seasonic PSU I bought in 2012. Trying to figure out how to isolate the issue. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Do you have a spare monitor you can connect to it as mirror of the TV?
 

Evo X

Member
First thing I try with my Titan X is the Battlefield 1 beta at 4K, but the fps is dropping into the low 50's and high 40's often. This is with no AA, everything turned down to high, no HBAO and resolution scale at 42. Bit disappointed to be honest.

Something is VERY wrong.

I am running the Battlefield 1 beta on all Ultra at 4K/60fps locked.
 
For the past several months or so my TV would randomly go blank and say "no Input" while the PC was still on and running and would the only way to fix it would be to reboot the PC. I recently got a new i7-6700K (OC'ed to 4.4ghz), 16GB RAM (1.35V), and a new mobo.

I was just gaming with the Vive and it cut out again, twice actually.

Is this an issue with my GPU (Titan X Maxwell)? Or is this a PSU issue? I have a 660W Seasonic PSU I bought in 2012. Trying to figure out how to isolate the issue. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Try a different HDMI or DP cable. Sounds like GPU or GPU cable.
 

Melon Husk

Member
Looking for a 24" monitor with a new non-TN 144Hz panel. Anything else in the near horizon than the curved VA from Samsung?

late edit: Yes, they make 144Hz IPS panels in 27" size. No thank you, I want to be able to look over my monitor.
 

liezryou

Member
Does anyone have any idea about the rosewill nautilus case? 40$ with the current 10 off 50 ebay deal and seems a pretty decent newer case.
 
So, I have what is probably a stupid question, but I need help deciding how I should proceed.

I'm currently running a fairly outdated system:
HIS R9 270x 2GB @1,000MHz
AMD FX6300 @4.0GHz
8GB RAM

I know it isn't ideal, but I'm looking at upgrading to a 1060 6GB @1,582MHz. I can't afford to upgrade my CPU for a few more months, because in order to do so I also need to replace my MOBO and cooler. Is it stupid for me to upgrade to the 1060 right now? Am I even going to see a difference with the new GPU if I'm still using the 6300?

I'm only targeting 1080p60 right now.
 

Gritesh

Member
Decided I'm chasing a ghost but.

Going to go from i5 2500k qith a hyper 212+ with 16gigs of ram over to a micro atx build.

First things first will I be able to sell my old rig case, motherboard, processor, memory, and cooler for a reasonable price or is that techs value diminished beyond trying.


Second I'm bringing over my 980ti for the foreseeable future how does this build up look?

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Z2rxHN


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($428.94 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($129.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($79.39 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $948.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-07 17:52 EDT-0400



I'm currently running on the Asus 34" ultrawide gsync and it's ultra glorious and I love playing in ultra wide but Im feeling slightly gimped maybe by my cpu?
 

This is mostly a Windows 10 question but is there ANY way I can make Windows Explorer show a column view like this?

I'm so automatic and robotic when going through files at my job (on a Mac) and I've been trying to transition more into Windows with some side projects at home but Goddamn as soon as I try to open a Finder/Windows Explorer I feel like someone tied my shoelaces together.
 

Bloodember

Member
This is mostly a Windows 10 question but is there ANY way I can make Windows Explorer show a column view like this?

I'm so automatic and robotic when going through files at my job (on a Mac) and I've been trying to transition more into Windows with some side projects at home but Goddamn as soon as I try to open a Finder/Windows Explorer I feel like someone tied my shoelaces together.
http://www.winbrowser.com/
I did a quick Google search and found this, I think I'll try it also.
 

joecanada

Member
hey this thread generally has a lot of nice builds in it, I looked all over the web but never found an answer for this.

say you buy a simple fan for cooling, but it is one way (they all are as far as I know). now you want to mount the thing but it exhausts out the back. I want to put it on the bottom of my case for an intake fan, but I don't want to see the ugly back of the fan, what the hell do I do?
only option is to mount it upside down?? seems weird there are no specialty fans for this. that blow toward the "good" side for aesthetics
 
Can I get a price check/opinions on my gaming PC that I'm selling locally? One potential buyer thinks I'm overpricing the computer. I have it listed for $900 but have said the lowest I'll accept is $825 so I'd like some opinions on the price I'm asking. I've included how much I think a part costs based on the eBay used prices and new part prices with a 10% deduction to account for my parts being used.

Note: Everything except the PSU, CPU, MoBo, Sound & Wifi Card was purchased around year ago.

Specs:

Case: NZXT H440 Case - $95
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 DELUXE (B2) - $70
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600k OC @ 4.5Ghz (max OC is 4.8GHz) - $150
CPU Cooler: Kraken x61 AIO Liquid Water CPU Cooler - $100
GPU: Sapphire Tri-X Fury OC @ 1080mhz/545mhz (core/memory) - $250
RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance LP DDR3 1600MHz RAM - $60
SSDs: 2x 240GB OCZ ARC 100 SSD - $120
HDD: 1TB 7200 RPM Western Digital Blue HDD - $40
PSU: Corsair AX850 80 PLUS GOLD Fully Modular Power Supply w/ Blue Sleeved Cables - $80
Fans: 3x Phanteks 140mm PH140-SP, 1x 140 & 3x 120 mm NZXT Fan - $30 (Phanteks fans only)

Subtotal: $995

Misc./Accessories:

Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster Z Sound Card (spray painted blue) - $50
Wifi/BT Card: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I Wi-Fi/Bluetooth PCI-E Adapter - $$20
LED Lighting: NZXT Hue+ Magnetic LED Strip/Controller - $50
Fan Controller: NZXT Grid+ V2 Fan Hub/Controller - $25
USB Expansion: NZXT IU01 Internal USB Expansion - $10
Fan Mount: PCI Fan Side Mount - $10

Total: $1160

So, from the total (and even subtotal), I think accepting $825 for this build is more than fair but maybe I'm wrong?


 

OmegaDL50

Member
hey this thread generally has a lot of nice builds in it, I looked all over the web but never found an answer for this.

say you buy a simple fan for cooling, but it is one way (they all are as far as I know). now you want to mount the thing but it exhausts out the back. I want to put it on the bottom of my case for an intake fan, but I don't want to see the ugly back of the fan, what the hell do I do?
only option is to mount it upside down?? seems weird there are no specialty fans for this. that blow toward the "good" side for aesthetics

All fans are double sided. One side designed for intake and the other for exhaust.

It all depends the direction you place them.

Refer to this handy video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlgfAO2Jtls

In my opinion, while aesthetics are nice to have, I'm generally buying a fan for their performance at actually keeping my computer cool. There is a reason why people recommend Noctua fans. It's certainly not for their ugly brown and tan aesthetic. (Outside of the plain black industrial versions of course)
 

Bloodember

Member
Can I get a price check/opinions on my gaming PC that I'm selling locally? One potential buyer thinks I'm overpricing the computer. I have it listed for $900 but have said the lowest I'll accept is $825 so I'd like some opinions on the price I'm asking. I've included how much I think a part costs based on the eBay used prices and new part prices with a 10% deduction to account for my parts being used.

Note: Everything except the PSU, CPU, MoBo, Sound & Wifi Card was purchased around year ago.

Specs:

Case: NZXT H440 Case - $95
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 DELUXE (B2) - $70
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600k OC @ 4.5Ghz (max OC is 4.8GHz) - $150
CPU Cooler: Kraken x61 AIO Liquid Water CPU Cooler - $100
GPU: Sapphire Tri-X Fury OC @ 1080mhz/545mhz (core/memory) - $250
RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance LP DDR3 1600MHz RAM - $60
SSDs: 2x 240GB OCZ ARC 100 SSD - $120
HDD: 1TB 7200 RPM Western Digital Blue HDD - $40
PSU: Corsair AX850 80 PLUS GOLD Fully Modular Power Supply w/ Blue Sleeved Cables - $80
Fans: 3x Phanteks 140mm PH140-SP, 1x 140 & 3x 120 mm NZXT Fan - $30 (Phanteks fans only)

Subtotal: $995

Misc./Accessories:

Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster Z Sound Card (spray painted blue) - $50
Wifi/BT Card: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I Wi-Fi/Bluetooth PCI-E Adapter - $$20
LED Lighting: NZXT Hue+ Magnetic LED Strip/Controller - $50
Fan Controller: NZXT Grid+ V2 Fan Hub/Controller - $25
USB Expansion: NZXT IU01 Internal USB Expansion - $10
Fan Mount: PCI Fan Side Mount - $10

Total: $1160

So, from the total (and even subtotal), I think accepting $825 for this build is more than fair but maybe I'm wrong?
Considering its a 4 or 5 year old cpu, and you can build a skylake for that it's too high. Your best bet is to part it out if you don't want too loose alot of money. Parting it out you will still lose money just not as much.
 
Can I get a price check/opinions on my gaming PC that I'm selling locally? One potential buyer thinks I'm overpricing the computer. I have it listed for $900 but have said the lowest I'll accept is $825 so I'd like some opinions on the price I'm asking. I've included how much I think a part costs based on the eBay used prices and new part prices with a 10% deduction to account for my parts being used.

Note: Everything except the PSU, CPU, MoBo, Sound & Wifi Card was purchased around year ago.

Specs:

Case: NZXT H440 Case - $95
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 DELUXE (B2) - $70
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600k OC @ 4.5Ghz (max OC is 4.8GHz) - $150
CPU Cooler: Kraken x61 AIO Liquid Water CPU Cooler - $100
GPU: Sapphire Tri-X Fury OC @ 1080mhz/545mhz (core/memory) - $250
RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance LP DDR3 1600MHz RAM - $60
SSDs: 2x 240GB OCZ ARC 100 SSD - $120
HDD: 1TB 7200 RPM Western Digital Blue HDD - $40
PSU: Corsair AX850 80 PLUS GOLD Fully Modular Power Supply w/ Blue Sleeved Cables - $80
Fans: 3x Phanteks 140mm PH140-SP, 1x 140 & 3x 120 mm NZXT Fan - $30 (Phanteks fans only)

Subtotal: $995

Misc./Accessories:

Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster Z Sound Card (spray painted blue) - $50
Wifi/BT Card: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I Wi-Fi/Bluetooth PCI-E Adapter - $$20
LED Lighting: NZXT Hue+ Magnetic LED Strip/Controller - $50
Fan Controller: NZXT Grid+ V2 Fan Hub/Controller - $25
USB Expansion: NZXT IU01 Internal USB Expansion - $10
Fan Mount: PCI Fan Side Mount - $10

Total: $1160

So, from the total (and even subtotal), I think accepting $825 for this build is more than fair but maybe I'm wrong?

You're wrong.

The discount from new to used is more like 25-50%, plus a further discount for selling it all together. You're trying to sell a system built around a five year old cpu/chipset for what someone could spend on modern parts that would exceed your build's performance. On top of that, the accessories are essentially worthless to a second-hand buyer. You chose them in pursuit of a particular aesthetic. That's money you don't get back.
 
Considering its a 4 or 5 year old cpu, and you can build a skylake for that it's too high. Your best bet is to part it out if you don't want too loose alot of money. Parting it out you will still lose money just not as much.

You're wrong.

The discount from new to used is more like 25-50%, plus a further discount for selling it all together. You're trying to sell a system built around a five year old cpu/chipset for what someone could spend on modern parts that would exceed your build's performance. On top of that, the accessories are essentially worthless to a second-hand buyer. You chose them in pursuit of a particular aesthetic. That's money you don't get back.

50% off for a used component? Would love to know where I can get my PC parts for that much.

Anyways, how much should it be priced at all together? Since you guys are dwelling on the CPU/mobo, an i5-6600 would be comparable performance to the my 2600k @ 4.5Ghz (at least based on this video). Going on PCPartpicker, I see the cheapest 6600 is about $219 and the cheapest 1151 mobo is about $54. So that's $272 for modern parts vs $220 for my older parts. $52 difference for around the same performance. Factoring new vs. used, I'd take off another $68 ($25% of $272) from my build's subtotal. Asking $900 and selling for $825 still seems fair to me.
 

Evo X

Member
Is there an audio thread on GAF?

Having an issue with my new JBL LSR305 Studio Monitors.

Plugged them straight into my PC motherboard audio port using this cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Music works fine, but when playing games I'm hearing a weird static and buzzing noise unless I turn the volume on the back of the speakers way down. It's like something is causing interference.

Would picking up a DAC fix this problem? If so, what is recommenced? Would I need a different or additional cables?

That's worrying. It can't be my 6600K can it? It is oc'd to 4.5.

I'm not sure. I'm running a 5820k at 4.4Ghz for reference.

You should run 3DMark and post your score. That will give us some idea of what's happening. What drivers are you running?
 

Unkle

Member
It looks fine. I'd probably use faster RAM as the price difference should be negligable. There's little difference between most manufacturers so people will generally pick what they like the look of the most. For example, I'd have the EVGA 1070 as most of them look ridiculous but the EVGA one looks relatively restrained.

Case wise, again it's generally a personal choice, but I certainly wouldn't skimp out on it. I'm particularly partial to the NZXT S340.

This is what I'd go for myself, but it isn't based on Newegg Ireland so I don't know how much more or less it would be fore you.

Thanks, man. I've taken everything on board.

I'll replace the RAM with what you mentioned, plus I think I'll plump for the i7 6600K as the price difference is like €90 and I wouldn't mind getting into video editing to complement the gaming side of things.

Here's the updated one (minus a case, gonna have a look around and see if anything takes my fancy) - http://imgur.com/efSKysx

It doesn't look as though Newegg factored in VAT until you go past the cart so it's pricier than I initially anticipated. I may explore different places to get certain parts as I've heard Germany's decent for this sort of stuff.
 
Quick question with people familiar with routers. I bought a house w/ 3 stories technically. 1st, 2nd, and basement. Not sure where the router is going yet b/c of weirdness with Fios but I have a Neatgear N600 WNDR3400. Thoughts on getting something stronger? I've seen a lot of GAF swear by Netgear Nighthawk. The cheapest is like $180. Worth it?
 

Evo X

Member
Quick question with people familiar with routers. I bought a house w/ 3 stories technically. 1st, 2nd, and basement. Not sure where the router is going yet b/c of weirdness with Fios but I have a Neatgear N600 WNDR3400. Thoughts on getting something stronger? I've seen a lot of GAF swear by Netgear Nighthawk. The cheapest is like $180. Worth it?

My router is in the basement. I bought an Amped Wireless SR300 Range Extender for $80 and installed it on the 1st floor. I now get fast speeds throughout the house (roughly 6,000 square feet)
 
Here's the updated one (minus a case, gonna have a look around and see if anything takes my fancy) - http://imgur.com/efSKysx

I recommend the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv case if you're willing to spend. There's 2 variances, the regular with a acrylic side window or the tempered glass version. I've been through a few cases and they are definitely up there in terms of build quality and heaps for space for water cooling etc should you want to do that in the future. Not to mention it looks amazing too.

http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX.html

http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-TemperedGlass.html
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Bout how big of an upgrade would I be seeing going from an i3-2100 to an i5-6500?
 
50% off for a used component? Would love to know where I can get my PC parts for that much.

Anyways, how much should it be priced at all together? Since you guys are dwelling on the CPU/mobo, an i5-6600 would be comparable performance to the my 2600k @ 4.5Ghz (at least based on this video). Going on PCPartpicker, I see the cheapest 6600 is about $219 and the cheapest 1151 mobo is about $54. So that's $272 for modern parts vs $220 for my older parts. $52 difference for around the same performance. Factoring new vs. used, I'd take off another $68 ($25% of $272) from my build's subtotal. Asking $900 and selling for $825 still seems fair to me.

If it seems fair to you, go for it. You asked for feedback and we gave it.
 

Alienfan

Member
I'm getting this message on PC Part Picker "The NZXT Phantom 410 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case supports video cards up to 305mm long, but video cards over 230mm may block drive bays. Since the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card is 280mm long, some drive bays may not be usable."

Is this something I should be concerned about? I've purchased all of the parts for my first build, except for the case. I'm probably going to go for either the Phantom 410 (seriously the best looking case ever) or the NZXT H440 Mid Tower. Any advice for picking cases?
 
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