Bloodember
Member
Yes. There's nothing special to it. The motherboard and Windows sees it as a hard drive like any other ssd or hdd.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
60EffPeeEss
Member
Best wifi and bluetooth PCIE card? Looking at this and it seems like the best I can get.
https://www.shop.bt.com/products/gi...4-0-wifi-expansion-card-gc-wb867d-i-C9P1.html
https://www.shop.bt.com/products/gi...4-0-wifi-expansion-card-gc-wb867d-i-C9P1.html
Whoa, why do you want to do that? The TJ08 is one of the best positive pressure cases out there. It makes one wonder why you're looking at this case in the first place.
Also, a 25mm-thick fan in the TJ08 would edge out large CPU coolers.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
QUICK QUESTION, GUYS!
I just bought a new CPU and motherboard, and want to reinstall Windows 10. Right now I have Windows 10 on an SSD and all my other shit on a HDD. Do I need to format my SSD NOW or will it format automatically when I'm prompted to install an OS after configuring everything?
I just bought a new CPU and motherboard, and want to reinstall Windows 10. Right now I have Windows 10 on an SSD and all my other shit on a HDD. Do I need to format my SSD NOW or will it format automatically when I'm prompted to install an OS after configuring everything?
HungOverOnATues
Member
Anyone know of the top of their head what the cheapest video card that can output 4k via HDMI would be? Not interested in gaming performance as its for my parents PC which is strictly a web surfing and media consumption device.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Because I'd have no exhaust apart from the small vents on the back otherwise with the setup I'm considering, with an 120mm AIO cooler on the back. I want positive pressure but that's too positive. Could also skip the fan on the side and just have mesh with an air filter.
Not the idea I'm leaning toward, just something I'm throwing around.
Jezbollah
Member
I think you might be looking for something like a GTX 960 or 970 for something like that.
I was spec'ing out a potential HTPC build and I think those would do a good job.
UpsideDownAce
Member
My living area really doesn't allow for a bigger tv. So that's why I was hoping to go with a high-end monitor instead.
HarryDemeanor
Member
You can delete the partition during the install. Just need to choose the bottom option which should be named Custom Install.
Does anyone here use an active displayport to vga adapter?
I´ve been looking at this one:
http://j5create.com/our-products/displayport-adapters/jda114.html
It says it supports up to 1920 x 1200 @60hz. If i decrease the resolution would i be able to use a higher refreshrate or is 60hz the highest it can go?
I would need something like 1280 x 1024 @ 85hz and 1600 x 1200 @ 70hz.
Thanks
I´ve been looking at this one:
http://j5create.com/our-products/displayport-adapters/jda114.html
It says it supports up to 1920 x 1200 @60hz. If i decrease the resolution would i be able to use a higher refreshrate or is 60hz the highest it can go?
I would need something like 1280 x 1024 @ 85hz and 1600 x 1200 @ 70hz.
Thanks
I already have a custom fan curve through Afterburner, but I set it to Adaptive instead of Power Saving (the setting it was on before I changed it to Max Performance) and I still hear it. Going to try Power Saving tonight.
Baron_Calamity
Member
Is there a chart someone with the different card brands and the new chipsets have little noise / coil whine?
Hmm, having a weird problem. When I restart, I no longer see the screen that shows the ASUS logo nor can I log into the BIOS. Restarting or shutting down goes from a black screen to the Windows login screen it no longer shows the ASUS loading screen which tells me what my OC is, etc. It's been a few days since I restarted, but it's my first time seeing it now. Any idea what might be causing this? I disabled the fast boot option from the power options but that didn't change anything.
Most likely you have quick boot enabled in the BIOS, start hitting F2 right when you turn the machine on and you should get in.
That didn't work, but I found it: the loading and BIOS screens were showing up on my TV (which is turned off), despite me choosing ASUS as my primary monitor. After I log in it still shows the ASUS as my primary monitor and my TV as the second monitor, but for some reason it defaults to the TV in that section.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Weird. Installed new mobo/CPU and Windows 10 booted right from where I left off. I for sure thought it would force me to reinstall. Heck, might just do it anyway.
That's normal. Since Windows 7, you don't have to reinstall Windows from changing CPU / MB. Each later Windows version have better driver support for hardware changes.
NamelessMonk
Member
Hey guys! I've been building a desktop all Summer and I'm just looking for advice on the last few pieces.
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/93WsXH (Everything that says purchased I already have)
EDIT: Added the parts list
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS10X Performa CPU Cooler ($48.57 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($440.58 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Titanium) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($112.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN822N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($24.84 @ NCIX)
Monitor: LG 24MP48HQ-P 23.8" 60Hz Monitor ($192.08 @ Newegg Canada)
Keyboard: Cooler Master Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $819.05
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-11 05:40 EDT-0400
So I'm looking for recommendations on the:
CPU Cooler
Video Card
Power Supply
Monitor
Because I've started University, I'm trying to pick the last few parts on the cheap, but without sacrificing a lot of power. The purpose of the computer was supposed to be for gaming, but now I'm also looking for stability and quiet. In terms of gaming, I just want to be able to hit max/high settings on games at 1080p for the next few years. My budget for the remaining parts is technically 850$, but like I said I want it to be as cheap as possible without sacrificing stability.
As for the monitor, I don't really want/need G-Sync/FreeSync.
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/93WsXH (Everything that says purchased I already have)
EDIT: Added the parts list
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS10X Performa CPU Cooler ($48.57 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($440.58 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Titanium) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($112.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN822N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($24.84 @ NCIX)
Monitor: LG 24MP48HQ-P 23.8" 60Hz Monitor ($192.08 @ Newegg Canada)
Keyboard: Cooler Master Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $819.05
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-11 05:40 EDT-0400
So I'm looking for recommendations on the:
CPU Cooler
Video Card
Power Supply
Monitor
Because I've started University, I'm trying to pick the last few parts on the cheap, but without sacrificing a lot of power. The purpose of the computer was supposed to be for gaming, but now I'm also looking for stability and quiet. In terms of gaming, I just want to be able to hit max/high settings on games at 1080p for the next few years. My budget for the remaining parts is technically 850$, but like I said I want it to be as cheap as possible without sacrificing stability.
As for the monitor, I don't really want/need G-Sync/FreeSync.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Oh, shit. Really? I had no idea.
Should I bother then with a clean install? What should I do about my mobo? Should I download and update the bios? This is my first time doing this so I'd appreciate any guidance!
If everything is working fine, no need to update the bios.
Usually manufacturers do that for specific cpu or ram support added in later. Not necessary for most.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Very interesting. I went from a i3-2100 and Biostar TZ68A+ to an i5-6500 and Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H, so it seemed like a drastic enough change that it might bork some of my drivers. But again, I've even started up an old game save and it runs fine without issue. Huh.
I still might want to do a clean install. I see that Windows 10 has a built-in "Reset this PC" feature. Is that fine to use?
HungOverOnATues
Member
I'll check it out. Thanks.
Guys, I'm looking for a Blu-ray burner that is capable of burning BD-DL as well as everything below that, I'm having a hard time deciphering which drives can burn DL and which ones cannot on newegg
EDIT: Oh, here we go
It's also super expensive, more expensive than the other stuff that I saw, makes sense
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6UM2N66492&cm_re=bd-r-_-9SIA6UM2N66492-_-Product
EDIT: Oh, here we go
It's also super expensive, more expensive than the other stuff that I saw, makes sense
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6UM2N66492&cm_re=bd-r-_-9SIA6UM2N66492-_-Product
Hironobu Sakaguchi
Member
whats the best i can do with $1650 or LESS for a new PC with latest specs ?
i dont want full tower, either MID or smaller cause i may want to transfere it , full tower is a pain
*excluding monitor, OS and anything else
i dont want full tower, either MID or smaller cause i may want to transfere it , full tower is a pain
*excluding monitor, OS and anything else
Pagusas
Elden Member
Basically can build anything you want, you can build what I'm building, a ITX monster running an i7 6700k and a 1080gtx. If it wasn't for the $300 case in getting you could easily fit it into a $1550 budget.
Bloodember
Member
I'd switch out the Power supply to a EVGA model, that's something you don't want to skimp on. I'd also switch out the 212 cooler for a Noctua cooler. The 212 isn't that great of a cooler.
lostsupper
Banned
There's some fat to be trimmed, unless you really need 32GB of RAM, an optical drive, and a sound card. Put that money toward a better PSU and cooler.
OmegaDL50
Member
That Rosewill PSU uses a Sirfa / Sirtec as a OEM which according to JonnyGuru have a variable track record. No point in dealing with 50/50 chance to get something good or bad.
Of any component inside your PC a Power Supply is the last thing you want to skimp out on. It's the sole thing that provides power delivery to your entire PC. If your PSU craps out, it can potentially take out anything connected to it such as your motherboard, gpu and hdds.
Are you planning to do high res video encoding or doing graphics design in something like photoshop or even Blender / Maya / etc? If you aren't then 32GB of ram is unnecessary.
The money you're investing into that $150 blu ray drive might be better off invested in getting a large storage drive instead. Unless you must absolutely need to write blu ray discs for archival purposes, you could probably get a 3 to 4TB HDD at the cost of that one drive and back up whatever you need to the storage drive instead of burning blu ray discs.
Of any component inside your PC a Power Supply is the last thing you want to skimp out on. It's the sole thing that provides power delivery to your entire PC. If your PSU craps out, it can potentially take out anything connected to it such as your motherboard, gpu and hdds.
Are you planning to do high res video encoding or doing graphics design in something like photoshop or even Blender / Maya / etc? If you aren't then 32GB of ram is unnecessary.
The money you're investing into that $150 blu ray drive might be better off invested in getting a large storage drive instead. Unless you must absolutely need to write blu ray discs for archival purposes, you could probably get a 3 to 4TB HDD at the cost of that one drive and back up whatever you need to the storage drive instead of burning blu ray discs.
http://www.3dcenter.org/artikel/lau...aunch-analyse-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1060-seite-3I'm thinking about upgrading my R9 270, the 1060 and 480 cost the same here (260€and I can't decide which one to buy. I'm going to keep this new card for about 4 years probably, so the RX 480 might be the best choice, but I'm not convinced. Any suggestions?
This is in German, but the tables should be self-explanatory. It's a coin toss, really. Unless you care a lot about power consumption.
Both cards have two versions as well; 4/8GB RAM and 3/6GB RAM respectively. I'd go with the higher RAM versions, whichever you end up choosing, even if you have a 1080p monitor right now.
edit: Actually, what CPU do you have? If it's an AMD, I'd go with the Nvidia card. They have lower CPU overhead.
crazy monkey
Banned
worst come to worse 480 has sli option. a single 1060 is better in dx 11. 480 is much better in dx 12. 480 might be better future proof.
jfoul
Member
Yeah, I'm thinking about delidding and applying liquid metal TIM. I really wish Intel would use solder on the consumer CPUs again. It's one of the nice little perks of the E series.
I was finally able to get the 4770K @ 4.4Ghz stable with AIDA64, OCCT, and Prime95. I had to bump the Vcore up from 1.202 to 1.238. Temps are now maxing out at 82C after 30 minutes of OCCT.
Edit: What's the best thermal compound these days? I'm still using Arctic MX-4.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm inclined towards the 480 because of the better vulkan/DX12 performance, but I might get the 1060 for now and upgrade in a few years when vulkan will be more popular. I have an i5-3450.
I know this thread is primarily about desktops, but man...
I can't help but laugh when I see these Dual GTX 1080 "laptops". What a goddamn hog!
I can't help but laugh when I see these Dual GTX 1080 "laptops". What a goddamn hog!
Hironobu Sakaguchi
Member
i believe PC isn't for me cause once i built a new one, barely after 2 months of usage, it was boxed for 2 years till now and never used, i may send it to my other place but because it's full tower, it's gonna cost more if i had to ship it multiple times
so it's either sell it without benefit and wait for future chance to build new one
or downgrade its case from full tower to any smaller case to be able to take it with me without issues
2 years gap is hard on me, i really wanted to go with latest specs specially now we're in new generation of PC techs, so no matter how much i'm satisfied with my current PC, i know that it's outdated before i get to make use of it.
funny thing that some of my parts bought cheaper than current prices thanks to black friday offers, so i'm hesitating tho i know in the end it's gonna stay boxed for another year LOL
right now i'm having a good notebook that can push me further, so i'm safe for a while
what do you think?
so it's either sell it without benefit and wait for future chance to build new one
or downgrade its case from full tower to any smaller case to be able to take it with me without issues
2 years gap is hard on me, i really wanted to go with latest specs specially now we're in new generation of PC techs, so no matter how much i'm satisfied with my current PC, i know that it's outdated before i get to make use of it.
funny thing that some of my parts bought cheaper than current prices thanks to black friday offers, so i'm hesitating tho i know in the end it's gonna stay boxed for another year LOL
right now i'm having a good notebook that can push me further, so i'm safe for a while
what do you think?
Can't post list since I'm on my phone. The GPU will be the new Titan x. Recommendations for a 4k monitor and the list?
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/gkJgBP
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/gkJgBP
Flintty
Member
Gaf, I'm hoping for some advice on my current hamster driven PC.
My PC is in no way shape of form a gaming PC, in fact I barely use it for gaming with the exception of Wow and Marvel Heroes. It does seem to struggle a bit on both those games when I crank up the graphics. I don't need it to be on Ultra but when playing Wow I like to have good spell effects and draw distance as a priority (with a good frame rate obviously) and for the most part I do achieve that but I want to get a bit more out of it.
I've been looking at building a proper gaming PC but I can't afford it at the moment and I can't really justify it for two games. So the only option is to see what I can do to my current system to squeeze a bit more out of the games. My specs are below. Is it simply a case of getting a new graphics card? Any advice on sensible upgrades would be appreciated.
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-2120 CPU @ 3.30GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.3GHz
Memory: 6144MB RAM
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730 1GB GDR5
I do have another card in its box, the GT 630 4GBDDR3 but I think that's a step back?
My PC is in no way shape of form a gaming PC, in fact I barely use it for gaming with the exception of Wow and Marvel Heroes. It does seem to struggle a bit on both those games when I crank up the graphics. I don't need it to be on Ultra but when playing Wow I like to have good spell effects and draw distance as a priority (with a good frame rate obviously) and for the most part I do achieve that but I want to get a bit more out of it.
I've been looking at building a proper gaming PC but I can't afford it at the moment and I can't really justify it for two games. So the only option is to see what I can do to my current system to squeeze a bit more out of the games. My specs are below. Is it simply a case of getting a new graphics card? Any advice on sensible upgrades would be appreciated.
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-2120 CPU @ 3.30GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.3GHz
Memory: 6144MB RAM
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730 1GB GDR5
I do have another card in its box, the GT 630 4GBDDR3 but I think that's a step back?
dreamer3kx
Member
Exactly what Im doing, by the time vulkan is popular these cards will be a bit old, that will be a great time to upgrade, went with a 1060, has been great.
Dusktildawn48
Member
On pc hooked my computer up to my tv to play splitscreen and was using the Xbox wireless adaptor. Noticed we were accelerating super slow. Keyboard was accelerating fine. Now it won't go back to normal on my controller. And on top of that I am now getting screen tearing on a gsync monitor. Restarted pc, deleted game, can't figure how to fix either issue. Anyone know anything please help!
edit:also cant shoot in RotTR
edit2: updated controller driver, right trigger back to normal. lowered refresh rate to 143, screen tearing gone. but now when i push the start button it enables split screen.
edit:also cant shoot in RotTR
edit2: updated controller driver, right trigger back to normal. lowered refresh rate to 143, screen tearing gone. but now when i push the start button it enables split screen.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
The simplest upgrade to make would probably be installing a GTX 960. I believe it's the most powerful card you can run with that processor with limited bottleneck. I should know because I just came off an i3-2100 + 960 setup that has served me incredibly well this gen.
You can get a GTX 960 for $160 on Newegg. Don't be concerned with the "refurbished." I had bought this exact model by EVGA a couple years back and I've never had a single problem with the card. Its temps never go above 65, it's super quiet. It's like Nintendo's "refurbished" units: practically brand new, if not actually brand new.
Flintty
Member
OmegaDL50
Member
Buying my new Motherboard, Ram, CPU, and Cooler today.
I wanted to run by you guys for a quick quality check.
I have two options open to me.
I could buy this 3 piece combo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.3007653
It's an i7 6700k, G.SKILL TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3400Mhz, and GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-UD3
And this Heatsink Fan - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608040
OR I buy a two piece combo with the i7 6700k and same motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.2846864
And get this ram instead because it's on the Shellshocker deal.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226835
My thing is the G.Skill Trident Z ram is clocked at 3400mhz which obviously faster, however the Mushkin Blackline ram is of a similar price but is double the memory at 32GB rather than 16GB.
I just plan to just set the XMP profile and be done with it. I will probably do some video encoding in the future and plan to use large texture pack mods for Fallout 4 and Skyrim Remastered so the extra ram might help.
So basically it's a decision of basically less ram but probably much faster, or more ram but double the capacity and save a bit of money. Regardless my components will be identical.
My only prerequisite for picking that combo was because that motherboard checkboxes all the features I wanted. USB 3.1 and two M.2 slots, and at required amount of fan headers I need.
That deal for the ram won't last long so I need to act soon, thanks very much GAF.
I wanted to run by you guys for a quick quality check.
I have two options open to me.
I could buy this 3 piece combo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.3007653
It's an i7 6700k, G.SKILL TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3400Mhz, and GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-UD3
And this Heatsink Fan - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608040
OR I buy a two piece combo with the i7 6700k and same motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.2846864
And get this ram instead because it's on the Shellshocker deal.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226835
My thing is the G.Skill Trident Z ram is clocked at 3400mhz which obviously faster, however the Mushkin Blackline ram is of a similar price but is double the memory at 32GB rather than 16GB.
I just plan to just set the XMP profile and be done with it. I will probably do some video encoding in the future and plan to use large texture pack mods for Fallout 4 and Skyrim Remastered so the extra ram might help.
So basically it's a decision of basically less ram but probably much faster, or more ram but double the capacity and save a bit of money. Regardless my components will be identical.
My only prerequisite for picking that combo was because that motherboard checkboxes all the features I wanted. USB 3.1 and two M.2 slots, and at required amount of fan headers I need.
That deal for the ram won't last long so I need to act soon, thanks very much GAF.
CornBurrito
Member
I need an Overwatch + general use machine.
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ss6f7h
Is this build any decent at all?
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ss6f7h
Is this build any decent at all?
OmegaDL50
Member
It looks decent for a preset build that you don't intend to overclock with. Is there a specific reason why you are buying the ram sticks separately instead of getting a 2x8GB pack, You might save a bit of money that way.
Hironobu Sakaguchi
Member
Good start point, I made some modifications:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M-HDV Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($62.98 @ Newegg) - AsRock better bang for buck at this price point.
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($87.59 @ SuperBiiz) - need 21333mhz ram, get lowest timings
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ B&H) - SSD is SSD at this price point.
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US) - mATX case, the Phanteks are nicer, but chosen case was ATX.
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg) - 80+ Bronze needed atleast.
Monitor: AOC G2260VWQ6 21.5" 75Hz Monitor ($119.99 @ Best Buy)
Other: RX 480 ($199.99)
Total: $922.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-11 12:49 EDT-0400
OmegaDL50
Member
Hey, LilJoka, can you help me with my ram question I asked in my post up above.
I am somewhat chomping at the bit to hit the submit order button over at Newegg to start my PC build. I just want some else's input whether I should opt for faster but less ram, as opposed to somewhat slower but more ram.
Outside of one thing, my part selections will be identical otherwise.
I am somewhat chomping at the bit to hit the submit order button over at Newegg to start my PC build. I just want some else's input whether I should opt for faster but less ram, as opposed to somewhat slower but more ram.
Outside of one thing, my part selections will be identical otherwise.
Id be getting the Trident Z Ram, but 3400Mhz will be a push if you also overclock the CPU. 3000Mhz is a much more reasonable overclock. Remember XMP is not guaranteed, so be prepared to tweak at such high speeds. Getting high speed RAM and running it slower is not a loss though, as usually they'll run at much lower timings than the spec'd stuff from the net.
ie, buy 3400Mhz CL 15, itll do 3000Mhz CL13, but likely off the shelf 3000Mhz RAM will cap out at CL 14.
I bought Trident Z 3000Mhz CL15, and run them at 3000Mhz CL14. These modules are some of the best.
Its also harder to OC the CPU with more than 2 memory modules.
- Status