ColdDeckEd
Member
Just wondering what's your psu? Make sure you have the backplate on correctly. I had the same issues as you before on my h110i gt due to installing the mounting thing wrong.
Make sure the side with the notches is pointing up.
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Just wondering what's your psu? Make sure you have the backplate on correctly. I had the same issues as you before on my h110i gt due to installing the mounting thing wrong.
Make sure the side with the notches is pointing up.
OmegaDL50
Member
Yeah I don't plan on doing any aggressive OC's. Since my PC is mainly air cooled using positive pressure fan setup, so I guess getting the Mushkin Ram won't hurt. I just want to make sure.
Also the reason why I'm buying the parts like this is because of the combo deal, I'm basically saving nearly $50 to $60 as opposed to buying each part individually.
ColdDeckEd
Member
What is your budget range? Do you mind buying used stuff? A new gpu would do wonders, try to wait afew weeks for more news on the 1050 which should be in the 150 range and around 960 levels of performance, and also work much better with your current setup since it won't need a good psu.
OmegaDL50
Member
Sorry about that liezryou, I saw your message.
I didn't purchase it yet. I'm just doing to research on the Mushkin Ram.
According to Overclockers they managed to push it to 3200mhz without issue.
http://www.overclockers.com/mushkin-blackline-16gb-ddr4-2400-cl15-memory-kit-review/
So it's right now I'm debating if I should jump on this or just get that 3000Mhz Corsair ram you recommended.
The Mushkin ram has a lifetime warranty, not that it matters, the DDR3 G.Skill Sniper ram in my PC also had a lifetime warranty too, so that really isn't a decision regardless.
Mushkin is a niche premium brand.
the pump on my vanilla h60 went out. google told me this was a common issue with the cooler. corsair replaced mine with no fuss despite being out of warranty. just needed to provide a copy of my invoice. thats the 2nd time ive had to deal with corsair's RMA dept. (first being with RAM) and have no complaints.
CornBurrito
Member
Yes, no plans on overclocking.
And no, no reason for buying the ram sticks separately.
Thanks.
Hironobu Sakaguchi
Member
Headsteyker
Member
I bought an AMD fury, should i install the driver after the GPU is installed and hooked to the monitor?
Bloodember
Member
Yes.
Bloodember
Member
Change the cooler to a Noctua, the 212 cooler isn't that great. You should also add an SSD for the OS drive. Also why are getting an ATX case for an mITX motherboard?
The p/s is really expensive. How about this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JYHBE6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
or this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16817153198&cm_sp=
OmegaDL50
Member
I will soon be set for another 4 years.
I have traditionally did a complete PC refresh every 4 years and have done as such for the past 12 years. I usually coincide my PC build with each new Elder Scrolls game release since I usually mod them to the max. I did this in 2008 for Oblivion, I did it again in 2012 for Skyrim, but ES6 isn't out yet, I should be sufficiently ready when that came drops whenever Bethesda gets around to it.
This was the PC I built in 2008 - http://www.gamefaqs.com/boards/566010-dice-de-chocobo/40935122
This was the PC I built in 2012 - http://pcpartpicker.com/list/fLbJmG
And this the 2016 refresh I ordered today - http://pcpartpicker.com/list/MXmmD8
The only parts carried over from my last built is my case which I plan to replace all the old fans with new ones, and the Power Supply which is very solid. (The OEM is a Super Flower unit (Platform is Golden Green) which are comparable to Seasonic in terms of quality. The specific platform for the Capstone 550-M is also shared with Kingwin Lazer Gold and the NZXT Hale90, so it's a quality unit.
I will eventually pick up an M.2 SSD and install windows to that, but my current funds don't allow me to do that, so that will need to wait at least 4 weeks due to my bi-weekly pay cycle.
Thanks GAF, looking forward to your guys help come 2020.
I have traditionally did a complete PC refresh every 4 years and have done as such for the past 12 years. I usually coincide my PC build with each new Elder Scrolls game release since I usually mod them to the max. I did this in 2008 for Oblivion, I did it again in 2012 for Skyrim, but ES6 isn't out yet, I should be sufficiently ready when that came drops whenever Bethesda gets around to it.
This was the PC I built in 2008 - http://www.gamefaqs.com/boards/566010-dice-de-chocobo/40935122
This was the PC I built in 2012 - http://pcpartpicker.com/list/fLbJmG
And this the 2016 refresh I ordered today - http://pcpartpicker.com/list/MXmmD8
The only parts carried over from my last built is my case which I plan to replace all the old fans with new ones, and the Power Supply which is very solid. (The OEM is a Super Flower unit (Platform is Golden Green) which are comparable to Seasonic in terms of quality. The specific platform for the Capstone 550-M is also shared with Kingwin Lazer Gold and the NZXT Hale90, so it's a quality unit.
I will eventually pick up an M.2 SSD and install windows to that, but my current funds don't allow me to do that, so that will need to wait at least 4 weeks due to my bi-weekly pay cycle.
Thanks GAF, looking forward to your guys help come 2020.
OdinDemonZero
Member
Thinking of getting a 1080.
Currently have an i5 4670K, Z87 mobo, 16gb ram and a gtx 770
Will my CPU throttle the GPU?
Currently have an i5 4670K, Z87 mobo, 16gb ram and a gtx 770
Will my CPU throttle the GPU?
This build does not make sense.
Do you want a cube style case?
Do you want to SLI in the future -> personally I don't recommend it.
Do you need an optical drive? -> most people don't run them these days
You need an SSD.
You got an ATX case and an ITX board..... Did you pick this for onboard Wifi?
Do you need wifi?
Here is a build that assumes you want to SLI, you don't need wireless, you need a DVD, and don't care for a particular case shape:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($66.38 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($135.66 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($157.39 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.94 @ NCIX US)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($137.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($48.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1501.20
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-11 14:38 EDT-0400
Here is a build that assumes you don't want to SLI, you don't need a DVD, you want a small chassis with wifi.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.50 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.22 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($157.39 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.94 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($61.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1546.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-11 14:42 EDT-0400
Hironobu Sakaguchi
Member
currently i've full tower atx and it's not usable for my transportation
i believe this one or at least mid tower can solve my problem , but i put this for a change
for ssd, now latest i know was sata iii , now there's m.2 and ultra , i'm not following updates so i need time for research, all i know that it has to be atleast 250 gb for os, as for steam i'll use normal HDD on D partition as i listed
it's expensive cause it's Platinum Certified, yours are bronze and gold, that's why it's cheaper
your Thermaltake is good choice also, also this is a another option but still a little pricey, is it justified in comparison ?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438017
Those 80 Plus certs are really overrated, and somewhat misleading, imho. Do people really care about using 8% more electricity? People may believe Platinum = best quality, Bronze = mediocre, which is not true at all.
Bloodember
Member
I have the same motherboard as the one you want to get, I'd go with a m.2 ssd. I use a Samsung 850 evo m.2 500GB model. I thought your choice of PSU was fine, a tad on the high side, but that's one component you shouldn't skimp on. The other is the CPU cooler. As for the case, I'd look into mITX cases or mATX cases, since you are getting an mITX motherboard.
I mentioned a couple of pages ago that my new Asus ROG G20 arrives next Friday. I was planning on putting an RX 480 8GB.
Looking online it seems non reference cards could obviously cause heat issues inside the case. I was wondering whether modding the case and adding externally powered fans would help?
I'm talking cutting two holes into the side of the case to fit 2 120mm fans that could be powered by USB.
Looking online it seems non reference cards could obviously cause heat issues inside the case. I was wondering whether modding the case and adding externally powered fans would help?
I'm talking cutting two holes into the side of the case to fit 2 120mm fans that could be powered by USB.
Bloodember
Member
Then just get a reference card, that way the air will be blown out the back instead of in the case. Why cut up your case if you don't have to?
Seriously, the case is like half the appeal.
I'm on the fence on building a new PC. We've had the 10-series from Nvidia arrive, and I would go for Nvidia. What's the next thing on the horizon from Nvidia, and what's the time frame? How's the timing on CPU? Is 6700K the definite answer? How long will LGA1151 be viable? Anything new around the corner on CPU? Anything else to consider?
True. Provably the best bet. Didn't the reference 480 cards have PCIe power consumption problems though? If they've been sorted I'll seek out one next week.
We had a brand new one in work but we had to transfer it to another store today... devastated.
I also should've explained. I was going to buy one from CEX because I get 15% discount. The problem is we take GPU'S in as non reference or reference design. That means if I order online I don't know which design will turn up.
The ROG G20 case is fucking ugly as well.
Bloodember
Member
The power issue was a driver problem, which has been fixed. I have a XFX Rx480 reference card with no issues.
Thanks! RX 480 it is then!
Posting on a new page since I didn't get a response on the last.
Can't post list since I'm on my phone. The GPU will be the new Titan x. Recommendations for a 4k monitor and the list?
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/gkJgBP
Can't post list since I'm on my phone. The GPU will be the new Titan x. Recommendations for a 4k monitor and the list?
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/gkJgBP
Bloodember
Member
If that's what you want then go for it. For me personally, their software is a non factor. I never use it anyway.
Bloodember
Member
If your only going to use one graphics card, an ATX motherboard is overkill and not needed. You should switch that to a mATX or mITX board and use a smaller case as well. If you want to save some more money exchange the SSD to the 850 model, I doubt you will see any difference in real world usage.
For the monitor, what size are you looking to get?
edit: there I go doing that double post thing.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Are there different types of slim optical drives? The case I'm still leaning the most heavily toward is the SG10, which requires a slim slot loading drive. There are a bunch of relatively cheap ones available but they look like OEM parts from laptops, and many don't have covers/bezels on the front. Curious if those sort of things would work, or if I need something else. Because there are some drives from Silverstone and what not but they are substantially more expensive.
Look out for which side the eject button is on.
jfoul
Member
Just wondering what's your psu? Make sure you have the backplate on correctly. I had the same issues as you before on my h110i gt due to installing the mounting thing wrong.
Make sure the side with the notches is pointing up.
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2
The H100i V2 has the new plastic mounting plate. My H60 has the mounting plate in the above picture. I think my H105 also has a plastic mount.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
The case doesn't leave space for an eject button, just the slot. Would have to eject in Windows. I use discs enough to want a drive, but still infrequently, so no button wouldn't be a problem.
I'm just curious if those cheaper OEM laptop drive mount the same so they would fit in this case. Don't know anything about slim drive standards.
ColdDeckEd
Member
That's interesting, my h110i has the old style, and I thought was newer than the h105. What does corsair link say about your pump speeds?
Thanks, reviewers and youtubers talk about the Magician software a lot so it made me wonder if I'd be missing something crucial.
Would buying the PM961 (not the faster SM961) be a bad decision? It does perform slower than the SM961 in sequential writes (1,800 MB/s vs. 1,150 MB/s), but I was able to find the 1TB model for $500 and I'm tempted to get it.
StrikeNinja24
Banned
Hey guys, almost done my build, just need a case and for the gtx 1060 to come back in stock.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/StrikeNinja24/saved/
Any suggestions on cases? I do have an optical drive as well that isn't on the list.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/StrikeNinja24/saved/
Any suggestions on cases? I do have an optical drive as well that isn't on the list.
Bloodember
Member
No, you'll be fine. Get the PM961 if that's what you want.
Thanks! Pulled the trigger. Do you recommend a software to clone my current SSD?
Can anyone recommend prebuilt PCs? Looking to spend around $1000, and while I understand the thrill of building your own PC, I'd rather a professional assemble it since Im putting a lot of money into it. I've heard Origin is pretty good, but I have no concept of their pricing or premium they drop on top of the cost of parts.
Bloodember
Member
No, any should do, there should be open source ones. I just reinstall.
It's not really a thrill, it's just a lot cheaper, nor is it hard. Plus saying professional is laughable, anyone can do it, parts will only go in one way. Build your own, and you will get a much better system than having a prebuilt one.
UpsideDownAce
Member
So after much consideration I finally got a new monitor. The Acer XB270HU is what I got. I decided to go ahead and invest, and so far it's pairing nicely with my gtx 1070. The best part is microcenter has it priced at $549.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Having NCIX build it for you is an option, though you have to buy everything from them and pay the $50 build fee.
It's not so much the "thrill" of building so much as it's substantially cheaper than prebuilts. Nearly all of them have ridiculous premiums unless you manage to catch one on sale for a good price. The process of assembling the PC is literally the easiest part of building, selecting parts and troubleshooting potential problems are both more difficult, but also much easier to get assistance with.
Also, quoting from the last page:
The case doesn't leave space for an eject button, just the slot. Would have to eject in Windows. I use discs enough to want a drive, but still infrequently, so no button wouldn't be a problem.
I'm just curious if those cheaper OEM laptop drive mount the same so they would fit in this case. Don't know anything about slim drive standards.
Quoting for ne page.
For people with the EVGA 1060 cards, is there really any difference between ACX 2.0 and ACX 3.0? The EVGA site doesn't have any specs beyond "it's better!" but is it worth the extra $20...
In fact both 2.0 and 3.0 boast "4x lifespan with double ball bearings!"
But, I mean, being able to say that my card is SUPER Superclocked... that alone may be worth an extra $20. /s
In fact both 2.0 and 3.0 boast "4x lifespan with double ball bearings!"
But, I mean, being able to say that my card is SUPER Superclocked... that alone may be worth an extra $20. /s
NamelessMonk
Member
Hey, my post got ignored/looked past the first time around so I'm going to repost it if that's ok.
I've been building a desktop all Summer and I'm just looking for advice on the last few pieces.
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/93WsXH (Everything that says purchased I already have)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS10X Performa CPU Cooler ($48.57 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($440.58 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Titanium) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($112.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN822N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($24.84 @ NCIX)
Monitor: LG 24MP48HQ-P 23.8" 60Hz Monitor ($192.08 @ Newegg Canada)
Keyboard: Cooler Master Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $819.05
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-11 05:40 EDT-0400
So I'm looking for recommendations on the:
CPU Cooler
Video Card
Power Supply
Monitor
Because I've started University, I'm trying to pick the last few parts on the cheap, but without sacrificing a lot of power. The purpose of the computer was supposed to be for gaming, but now I'm also looking for stability and quiet. In terms of gaming, I just want to be able to hit max/high settings on games at 1080p for the next few years. My budget for the remaining parts is technically 850$, but like I said I want it to be as cheap as possible without sacrificing stability.
As for the monitor, I don't really want/need G-Sync/FreeSync.
I've been building a desktop all Summer and I'm just looking for advice on the last few pieces.
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/93WsXH (Everything that says purchased I already have)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS10X Performa CPU Cooler ($48.57 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($440.58 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Titanium) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($112.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN822N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($24.84 @ NCIX)
Monitor: LG 24MP48HQ-P 23.8" 60Hz Monitor ($192.08 @ Newegg Canada)
Keyboard: Cooler Master Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $819.05
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-11 05:40 EDT-0400
So I'm looking for recommendations on the:
CPU Cooler
Video Card
Power Supply
Monitor
Because I've started University, I'm trying to pick the last few parts on the cheap, but without sacrificing a lot of power. The purpose of the computer was supposed to be for gaming, but now I'm also looking for stability and quiet. In terms of gaming, I just want to be able to hit max/high settings on games at 1080p for the next few years. My budget for the remaining parts is technically 850$, but like I said I want it to be as cheap as possible without sacrificing stability.
As for the monitor, I don't really want/need G-Sync/FreeSync.
I would consider getting a different brand for the video card.
My go-to video card manufacturers are EVGA and MSI. Gigabyte is okay but I didn't think their customer service was all that great, ymmv.
Also that is a pretty cheap monitor. On the plus side, it's still IPS. I'm really picky about IQ and color accuracy, though.
If it were me I would spend a little more to get better brands for those 2 things.
Edit: I see you want specific recs; for monitors I would look at something like the Dell U2417H, it's $350 in Canada money. I figure if you are going to be looking at it all the time it should have the best image quality you can afford.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
GPU and PSU you have picked out are both good options. If you are looking to save more the 470 might be worth considering. It's a step down in performance, particularly for existing/DX11 games. But it's quite a bit cheaper (at least in the US) and should do well in DX12 and potentially rival the 1060 in games that take advantage of it's greater async compute capabilities.
You should also look for deals on prior gen GPUs, I've seen some people picking up Furys and 980s at really good prices. 1060 is the best all-around bet right now though.
Can't go wrong with a Seasonic PSU, and 550W is fine for a single GPU build.
Can't speak much for monitors, but if you end up with an AMD GPU there isn't any reason not to get a freesync compatible monitor. It adds little to nothing to the cost.
Bloodember
Member
Need pictures. Are you sure your using the right screws?
CPU Cooler: Go with a Noctua if you want air. If water go with a NZXT Kraken X41.
Video card: Looks good, manufacturer is fine, if you want to save some money go with a Radeon RX 470 or 480.
PSU: That is fine.
Monitor: LG makes some good monitors, don't see anything wrong with it, you can go bigger and stay the same price if you go with a TN display. Up to you.
- Status