ColdDeckEd
Member
That looks like a great build. However, if you are going to build in 2017, you might want to hold off buying the cpu since Kaby Lake will drop around then. It will be able to drop into that motherboard just fine.
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That looks like a great build. However, if you are going to build in 2017, you might want to hold off buying the cpu since Kaby Lake will drop around then. It will be able to drop into that motherboard just fine.
Thanks. Looks like it's good to go.
I guess I touch it again to turn it off.
Thanks, that's re assuring!
I am looking to have it all built by 2017, so I may not hold off on the CPU.
The build I created has 32GB RAM - is that for anything other than future proofing at this point? At least in terms of gaming... Though I wouldn't mind some multitasking while playing a game...
It's sold out atm but newegg is selling it until 9/14 11:59 PM for 110$. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...e=msi_z170a_sli-_-13-130-900-_-Product&cm_sp=
Ahh! I didn't take a pic when I had it set.
Here's a pic without it being mounted.
Notice how the one on the right doesn't reach the surface.
If I screw in the one opposite, it gets worse.
Checked the manual, and it looks like I used the correct ones for the mobo.
It's the x bracket that's giving me problems.
Use force, looks normal to me. Just get each screw started rather first rather than screwing each one in all the way individually. Tighten each screw a few turns in a cross pattern.
BolognaOni
Member
Looks pretty good- power supply is definitely more wattage than you need though. You can step that down to 650W or 750W and save yourself a bit (depending on how aggressive you think you might want to get with OC in the future). Platinum rated supplies also tend to carry a pretty hefty price premium for the marginal efficiency improvement they offer.
Case wise I have a Fractal Define S, and if you don't want an optical drive, I think that's a great option. Lots of room in there. Tons of good options out there though.
If you really want to max everything out at 1440p ultrawide, you might want to consider a 1080, but the 1070 will be perfectly capable if you're willing to tweak a few settings.
You can drop the ram to 2x8GB, more won't give you any benefit in gaming.
I would suggest against Seagate for HDD. Their HDD's at least used to have bad reputation. I would also up that SDD to 500GB (Samsung Evo 850 is good)
And you absolutely don't need 1000W power suply. I have overclocked 6600K with GTX 1070 running on 550W EVGA supernova. Get 600-700W if you like, but 1000W is overboard for non-SLI systems.
Damn! Oh well. Its still a solid deal.
Is it bad that Audiosurf is the game that wowed me the most after getting a 144 Hz monitor? Like, I definitely notice the higher framerate in other titles, but in Audiosurf within an hour I effortlessly got achievements I failed to get in the 25 hours I played before in 60fps.
ColdDeckEd
Member
I believe the desktop variants of Kaby Lake will be released in Dec or Jan 2017 so if you hold off buying the cpu until then that would save you any disappointment if Kaby Lake is much better than Skylake. You'll likely be more than satisfied with Skylake, it is crazy fast, but personally I hate that feeling of buying a top end component and then a month later having the new stuff drop.
Oh yah follow what Jyrii suggested. That 1000w psu is a bit overkill. Although if money is not a big concern, it's always nice to have a powerful top of the line psu but you definitely don't need it.
Patrick S.
Banned
I didn't even know about Kaby Lake :O
Well that helps me decide, no Skylake for me.
Well that helps me decide, no Skylake for me.
Honestly, it's not. The regular price of that motherboard on Newegg is $140. The merchant you're buying it from has it listed at $320 and then has it "on sale" for 50% off. It's a pretty classic slimy tactic to make people think they're getting a great deal.
Here's the listing of comparable merchant prices on pcpartpicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yLPzK8/msi-motherboard-z170asliplus
I mean, $160 isn't too far out of line, so if you're happy with it, go for it. But you can definitely do better if it's not too late to cancel.
ColdDeckEd
Member
Intel recently released a lot of Kaby Lake information. They should be out in mobile form in Jan, then the desktop processors will be released shortly after.
Sometimes it'll turn off straight away but usually you have to bridge the two for a few seconds.
Patrick S.
Banned
BreezyLimbo
Banned
Is the AMD 8350 any good? Does it pair good with a Gigabyte mobo? Looking to buy a mobo and cpu...friend suggested that cpu
ColdDeckEd
Member
There's going to be quite a price increase, it seems
I wouldn't expect that big of a jump in the desktop space, they always price the K processors at around the same level as the previous gen.
If you are keeping the CPU temp at 80, the cores be hitting 100c.
People will always refer to core temps, never CPU temp (this sensor lives at the top centre of the die). Core temps can be 15c higher than the CPU temp and will cause throttling before the CPU temp hits the package limit, normally around 75c.
Keep the core temps below 80 on average, a few spikes here and there are nothing to worry about.
Patrick S.
Banned
Oh, good to know.
12-16gb is already more than enough for any kind of gaming now and near future.
BolognaOni
Member
I haven't built an AMD machine in a long time, but from what I understand they are are bit better than the i3's, especially if you overclock. Not sure what your budget is, but if it's possible to step up to an i5, you might want to consider it.
BreezyLimbo
Banned
Yeah, i5 is what Ive been looking at mainly. Dunno why my griend recommended the 8350 then >_>
So I put a 1070 G1 in my rig earlier and went for a walk in The Witcher 3. Holy shit 60fps feels weird lol. Although I was able to play at ultra settings with my highly overclocked 680, I played the entirety of the base game (90+ hours) and the first expansion at 30fps. Blood & Wine is gonna be good, and I'm looking forward to finally getting into some other recent releases.
Sain Drevia
Member
Thanks, LFB. I think I will just stick with my current OC, even though my CPU maxed out at 62C, and it appears that I have a lot of room to run. I don't feel the desire to max out my chip's capability as I don't play anything so demanding that that extra power would be a must, but this is certainly good information to keep in mind.
Burgess_101
Member
I managed to pick up a Sandisk Extreme Pro 500GB SSD for £115 off of Amazon Warehouse with the 20% student discount.
Looking forward to seeing how much better it is compared to my OcZ Agility 3.
Looking forward to seeing how much better it is compared to my OcZ Agility 3.
OmegaDL50
Member
That should suffice if you don't plan to do any aggressive overclocks.
Load wattage for the GTX 1080 is 247w and the i7 6800k is 192 W
You could punch in the rest of your components here and get an estimate on the expected power consumption
http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator
Thanks, I really don't think I'd push it too hard as I plan to stay with air cooling and I only have a SSD and a few HDDs.
My 3570k is starting to show some age and I think the 6800k with a 1080 would be a good machine for a long time.
Possibly dumb question: I have a really recent install of Win 10 on my SSD, do I need to do a fresh install with a new mobo/CPU?
RobotsAnger
Member
I'm trying to do a relatively cheap non-OC mITX build: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/C7wCd6
I'm not a pro at building comps so before I pull the trigger, maybe you guys can help me with a few questions:
1) PC part picker calculates 276w, a 450w power supply should be enough right?
2) Should I lower the ram to 8GB? I just plan on gaming/internet. Nothing creative.
3) Any better recommendations for the mITX mobo? I chose kinda randomly here. Is there any loss if I go H110 instead of H170 for the chipset?
I already have an SSD and a 1440 x 3440 monitor @ 60hz in addition to this. I'm getting the HDD because NCIX includes a copy of windows if it's a complete system (I don't plan on building it myself plus the 1 year warantee is nice).
I'm not a pro at building comps so before I pull the trigger, maybe you guys can help me with a few questions:
1) PC part picker calculates 276w, a 450w power supply should be enough right?
2) Should I lower the ram to 8GB? I just plan on gaming/internet. Nothing creative.
3) Any better recommendations for the mITX mobo? I chose kinda randomly here. Is there any loss if I go H110 instead of H170 for the chipset?
I already have an SSD and a 1440 x 3440 monitor @ 60hz in addition to this. I'm getting the HDD because NCIX includes a copy of windows if it's a complete system (I don't plan on building it myself plus the 1 year warantee is nice).
I have a mini-itx set up and could only accommodate 2.5 drives. Is there a difference in gaming performance between 2.5 HDDs 5400 RPM vs 7200 RPM. The latter is so hard to find in more than 1TB capacity (is there any available for consumers?). OS is on a separate SSD. Another SSD is not an option because it is so expensive.
I had the same dilemma as going between H110 vs H170. I chose H170 because in case of Gigabyte H170n-Wifi vs the H110, there is already an m.2 Wifi+bluetooth module on the former, the latter has none but does have the slot and you can see on the back IO that there is a two antenna slots for the card. Basically the H110 just removed the Wifi+bluetooth module of the H170. If you buy a separate module the price is the essentially the same (in my country at least).
I had the same dilemma as going between H110 vs H170. I chose H170 because in case of Gigabyte H170n-Wifi vs the H110, there is already an m.2 Wifi+bluetooth module on the former, the latter has none but does have the slot and you can see on the back IO that there is a two antenna slots for the card. Basically the H110 just removed the Wifi+bluetooth module of the H170. If you buy a separate module the price is the essentially the same (in my country at least).
I'm guessing that's probably fine, but a wattage bump to 600 wouldn't hurt and there's several gold rated ones cheaper than the one you have selected. It's not going to pull more power than you need at any given point.
Back again.
The connectors(usb2, and usb3) that are next to the power switch, and reset switch(connectors) on the bottom right, are for the front panel correct?
Also, Cha Fan 1, and 2 are for the case fans? If I were to add more fans, where would I connect them?
My Motherboard z170-e.
Sorry for the silly questions. ^.^"
The connectors(usb2, and usb3) that are next to the power switch, and reset switch(connectors) on the bottom right, are for the front panel correct?
Also, Cha Fan 1, and 2 are for the case fans? If I were to add more fans, where would I connect them?
My Motherboard z170-e.
Sorry for the silly questions. ^.^"
ClubCyberia
Member
Anyone here have the Acer gn246hl and would recommend it? Thinking about pairing it with a 1060 and some sort of i5.
RobotsAnger
Member
Thanks, I didn't realize the H110 didn't come with the wifi/bt. I'll stick with the H170.
I need an SFX size power supply to fit the case and all the 600w ones are more expensive. The difference is about 40 bucks, but I'll spend it if I need it.
Gotcha didn't notice that. It's probably enough if you're not overclocking or adding more drives.
The 8350 was released in 2012. Even a low end modern i5 beats it easily and an i3 often does in single threaded applications (most games pre 2015)
BreezyLimbo
Banned
Oh for Power Supplies, how are Thermaltakes? My old power supply blew up and I picked one of the 650 watt thermaltakes as a replacement. It was on the cheaper side compared to corsair price wise..
Gotcha. Yeah,it seems i5 is just the better choice then. Itd be to replace a 6 year old amd black cpu
Gotcha. Yeah,it seems i5 is just the better choice then. Itd be to replace a 6 year old amd black cpu
Sorry for bugging you.
My mobo says it's got
1x cpu fan
1x cpu opt fan
2x chassis fans.
That means I can only use the two fans in the case, and I'd need one of those things to add more correct?
What are those cables called?
I'm considering maybe upgrading my PC to a Skylake build.
Right now this is my system:
i5 4690k at 4ghz (stock cooler)
MSI Z97 GD65 Gaming motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LP 16 gb of DDR3 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 RAM
MSI 1070 GTX Gaming X GPU
Corsair VS 650 PSU
Toshiba 128gb SSD
A 12-13 year old Seagate Barracuda 160gb HDD (yeah, I know)
Today I have ordered a new CPU cooler (Thermalright HR-02 Macho Rev. B) because I want to overclock some more, to basically the highest stable setting I can get with stock voltages. I've run this system stable at 4.2ghz with the CPU undervolted but of course it still gets too hot with the stock cooler.
Is it worth it upgrading this system to an i5 6600k and DDR4 memory or am I better off just playing around with overclocking when the CPU cooler arrives? Money is a bit tight right now, so I'd hope to get a good price for my current motherboard + CPU + RAM and use that plus the €170 I got for my GTX 970 to cover for most of the bill.
Right now, none of the games I play give my system any problems. I don't really have very high system requirements because I game in 1080p on a TV, because I love the comfort of my armchair
But there are two games I hope to have a better experience with; Arma 3 and Star Citizen.
Arma runs at 80 fps or higher most of the time when playing alone, IIRC with most settings at max, but it runs at 40-ish at its worst (and up to 80-ish) when I'm playing multiplayer.
Star Citizen's performance was not very good when I last played on the GTX 970 I had until a week or so ago, haven't tried it with the 1070 yet.
I think both these games are not well optimized, Arma 3 because Bohemia, and Star Citizen because it's in alpha state and most of its performance issues aren't actually caused by my PC, but by the server the game is run on.
Arma 3 is really the main reason of my overclocking and possible update plan, because it's my main time sink right now, and it is highly CPU-limited, and the more CPU speed you throw at it, the better it will run.
Apart from those games, I can't think of any game that wasn't running well enough on my system even when I still had the GTX 970.
Hmmm, the more I'm typing here the more I realize I'm probably already answering my own question, there really isn't a good reason for me to upgrade right now, right? Of course having the newest stuff is nice, but will I see a *noticeable* performance increase for gaming if I get an i5 6600k-based system? I don't rip DVDs and I don't stream, either. Maybe I should just take the €170 from the 970 and get a new HDD or try and get a decent used monitor for that money? I'm not sure what to do.
I don't think it's worth upgrading to Skylake just so you can get better frames in Arma 3 from an i5 4690k. That's still a really good processor. Just lower your settings. 4690k to 6600k is not enough of a jump and will barely be noticeable to you for the extra few hundred dollars extra to upgrade.
Arma 3 is not the most optimized game out there from what I've heard.
Those are Fan splitter y-cables. I use 2 of these in my build - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Will allow you to connect 2 fans to 1 header.
If you wanna get fancy, there are fan controllers out there to choose from. Corsair Commander Mini, for example.
Thanks everyone! I've taken your notes into account and adjusted the build, most notably by finding a more reasonable power supply & RAM set up:
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/gtDMVY
A few additional questions:
-How do I install W10 w/o an optical drive? Create a bootable USB?
-What else am I missing?
paperspace
Member
What's the best monitor with 144Hz, IPS and 1440p?
G-Sync doesn't seem to be all that useful, so I think I'll skip that.
G-Sync doesn't seem to be all that useful, so I think I'll skip that.
Okay, thanks. I'll need two of those to add 2 additional fans then?
Ye but you'll need a working PC to do that on, obviously. Download the ISO and use Media Tool to create the boot USB.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10
a working PC or a working computer? i unparitioned my macbook recently and now only have access to osx
The wired network card isn't necessary. The motherboard already has ethernet on it. Maybe you meant a wireless card?
Thanks! Didn't catch that one.
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