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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Yort

Member
I’m looking to build a new PC in the near future. My current PC is quite old, an Intel Core 2 Quad 6600 paired with a Radeon HD 7870, so it’s definitely time to upgrade. I don’t plan on re-using any old parts from my PC, and I have a 1920x1200 monitor that I have no real desire to replace.

I’d like to be able to run Gamecube, Wii and possibly PS2 emulation solidly, so my understanding is that requires a good CPU? Ideally I’m looking to spend around $1000 Canadian, but casually browsing components, I realize that might not be realistic, and I’m willing to spend a bit more for a better experience. I’m also willing to wait around until Black Friday and/or Boxing Day to take advantage of sales. So I’m wondering which components are recommended, so I can look out for deals.

Miscellaneous thoughts:
  • How much ram is recommended?
  • What's a good wattage for a power supply?
  • There doesn't seem to be much difference in price between RX 480s and GTX 1060s in Canada, from a quick check
 

BasicMath

Member
I’m looking to build a new PC in the near future. My current PC is quite old, an Intel Core 2 Quad 6600 paired with a Radeon HD 7870, so it’s definitely time to upgrade. I don’t plan on re-using any old parts from my PC, and I have a 1920x1200 monitor that I have no real desire to replace.

I’d like to be able to run Gamecube, Wii and possibly PS2 emulation solidly, so my understanding is that requires a good CPU? Ideally I’m looking to spend around $1000 Canadian, but casually browsing components, I realize that might not be realistic, and I’m willing to spend a bit more for a better experience. I’m also willing to wait around until Black Friday and/or Boxing Day to take advantage of sales. So I’m wondering which components are recommended, so I can look out for deals.

Miscellaneous thoughts:
  • How much ram is recommended?
  • What's a good wattage for a power supply?
  • There doesn't seem to be much difference in price between RX 480s and GTX 1060s in Canada, from a quick check
Good thinking. It's a good time to wait to either get the latest processors (Zen/Kaby Lake) or save a bit on the old ones (i5/i7 Skylakes). As for mid-range GPUs, there's nothing coming out until maybe Q3 2017. The possibly good thing about that is that maybe supply will slightly surpass demand and finally bring prices down a bit.

-With RAM, 2 sticks of 8GB (16GB) is starting to be the standard.
-You're probably going to be looking for a 450w-600w PSU. Going beyond that is very likely overkill.
-Prices are all over the place still. Supply's an issue but demand is even worse. It was 2 years without new GPUs, so now everyone wants to upgrade.

the 6700k is still like 800mhz faster even without the overclock though, is that a big difference?
Yes. There's actually even more of a difference than 800Mhz. You also get an extra 4 threads and more cache.
But the difference in price is also there too. >50% more expensive. Up to you if it's worth it.
 

DonMigs85

Member
the 6700k is still like 800mhz faster even without the overclock though, is that a big difference?

Actually it's 600MHz faster. 6700K turboes up to 4.2GHz stock and the 6500 is 3.6GHz. The 6600 non-K can turbo up to 3.9GHz. Most motherboards, even the cheapo ones, also have a feature in the BIOS called multicore enhancement that keeps the CPUs at their max Turbo speed. It won't hurt anything but you should invest in a decent cooler like the Hyper 212.
 
Thank you very much again for your help.

My last question (for now...) - is there any particular order I should be picking these pieces up? I'll probably spend $400 a month on pieces for the rest of the year and I should have everything I need, just wondering what to get first.

Nah there's no particular order if you are just collecting the parts just try to buy the stuff that's on sale first.
 

Momentary

Banned
What CPU are you using.

For reference my i7 6700k idles at 30c and goes up to 50c during a stress test.

The i7-6700k doesn't even begin to throttle until 100°C. Anything below 70°C under full load on all cores is acceptable as being pretty safe and anything under 80°C, while not desirable, is probably not going to cause damage as it would never see those temps under normal usage.

Temps of 30 to 50c is fairly normal for computer usage depending on load circumstance.

I should have specified that I meant my GPU runs at 47 my CPU stays around 45. The CPU is a 6850k
 
I've just installed Asus GPU Tweak II, but the built-in OC profile doesn't seem to add much. The default clock goes from 1000MHz to 1026MHz, the boost clock from 1076MHz to 1102MHz and the memory stays at 1753MHz.

Edit - I've just ran Heaven and the monitor in GPU Tweak says it went up to 1253MHz during the benchmark, so I'm somewhat confused.

That's just how nvidias gpu boost works. Even if the boost says it's 1100 in gpuz the card will keep increasing the boost until it hits the power or thermal limit when under load. The easiest and safest way to overclock newer nvidia cards is to just max out your powerlimit and thermal limit and let the gpu figure it all out.
 

luffeN

Member
I just got my GTX 1080 and I was wondering what the optimal g-sync settings are in the nvidia settings. Some time ago I read them here on GAF but I can't find them anymore. Something with vsync on? in the panel but off in the games etc.?
 

knitoe

Member
I just got my GTX 1080 and I was wondering what the optimal g-sync settings are in the nvidia settings. Some time ago I read them here on GAF but I can't find them anymore. Something with vsync on? in the panel but off in the games etc.?

Yes. Nvidia control Vsync = ON. Ingame Vsync = OFF.
 

Pocks

Member
If you've tried it on the same computer tethered to your cell phone provider and it works, but not when on Comcast, it's obvious it's Comcast.

I had a surprisingly quick online chat with Comcast and they fixed the issue in about 30 minutes.

Abhinav > I just ran a health check on your account to check the connections and the devices, sometimes the modem has signals issues. I am
now going to optimize your connection so it performs at its best.

Abhinav > What we are going to do to fix this permanently is to reprovision
the modem through which the internet service is working . After a
successful registry, we will replenish the signal, send correctional hits to the box to eliminate traffic that is in the network causing this slow speed
connection.

Not sure if that's bullshit or not, but the issue has been resolved.
 
Change the cooler to a Noctua, the 212 cooler isn't that great. You should also add an SSD for the OS drive. Also why are getting an ATX case for an mITX motherboard?

i forgot to tell you that i got this one right now:

CM hyper 212 evo


bought it for $33 some time before now , i can keep it, and i can sell it to get Noctua, what do you think ? and which one you recommend?

as for other kind of MB like mITX to so , i've to research it more cause i know only bout ATX and i'm not sure if i'm gonna forfeit some features to get smaller size
 
I just sold my GTX 970. I have an i5 6600K and 8GB @2666 DDR4. I'm gonna buy one memory slot but what GPU should I buy? I play on a 50" 1080p Bravia and planing to buy an 4k hdr tv in the future.
 
I just sold my GTX 970. I have an i5 6600K and 8GB @2666 DDR4. I'm gonna buy one memory slot but what GPU should I buy? I play on a 50" 1080p Bravia.

1070. GTX 1060 wouldn't make much sense considering it's not that faster. Or you can get a 1080 if you're into Gameworks/Supersampling or planning an upgrade into 4K.
 
Installed a new board, CPU and M.2 SSD yesterday.

M.2 is really convenient to install, no cables! I hope we get more slots and higher capacity in the future.

While installing the CPU I asked myself why is there still a separate power cable for the CPU? Can't they somehow integrate it in the huge ass connector already there for the mainboard? The less cables the better!
 
What's people's experience with delidding? Did you remove all silicon? Replaced with new silicon or glue?

Is there a noticeable visual improvement going from 1680x1050 to 1920x1080?

For movies, it's definitely a step up. If you're going from 22' 1050p to 24' 1080p the difference isn't that huge - it's mostly the size.

I personally prefer 1080p though.
 

TheCrackInTime

Neo Member
That's just how nvidias gpu boost works. Even if the boost says it's 1100 in gpuz the card will keep increasing the boost until it hits the power or thermal limit when under load. The easiest and safest way to overclock newer nvidia cards is to just max out your powerlimit and thermal limit and let the gpu figure it all out.

That explains it then. I'm a total noob when it comes to overclocking, but I guess we all have to start somewhere. I followed a video guide earlier and added 250MHz to the core clock, as well as maxing the power and thermal limits in Afterburner, so it seems I'm set for now.
 
Use a credit card and isopropyl to remove all adhesive, no need to replace it. The socket clamp holds the IHS in place.

I see!

No risk of damaging the die if there's too much pressure? I mean, sure, there's always a risk when dealing with these kind of tweaks - but if the IHS is only making contact with the die (and not the PCB), wouldn't that be risky?

Maybe there's no chance of that happening though.
 
That explains it then. I'm a total noob when it comes to overclocking, but I guess we all have to start somewhere. I followed a video guide earlier and added 250MHz to the core clock, as well as maxing the power and thermal limits in Afterburner, so it seems I'm set for now.

250 is a lot, what is your boost at? You should run heaven or firestrike to make sure your overclock is stable. If it crashes, or you see artifacts (textures not loading, red spots are the most common) then drop the core by 25 or so and retest.
 
There's so many motherboards, even among the same brands and series. Is there a site that clearly breaks down the differences? Even PCpartpicker shows identical specs when you compare a lot of them despite considerable price differences.
 

BraXzy

Member
There's a DELL S2716DG manufacture refurb available for £200 less than the shops... the temptation to get it is high. But then I doubt whether the TN panel would be good enough and if it'd be worth it while I still have my GTX 970 which would struggle with 1440p. What do.

Scratch that people just got crazy with eBay bidding.
 

Bloodember

Member
i forgot to tell you that i got this one right now:

CM hyper 212 evo


bought it for $33 some time before now , i can keep it, and i can sell it to get Noctua, what do you think ? and which one you recommend?

as for other kind of MB like mITX to so , i've to research it more cause i know only bout ATX and i'm not sure if i'm gonna forfeit some features to get smaller size

It's up to you, if it where me, I'd sell it and get a Noctua NH-D15, if I were to go with air cooling.

The motherboard you have listed is a mITX. The one you have listed I actually use, it's a great board if you decide to go with it.
 
I see!

No risk of damaging the die if there's too much pressure? I mean, sure, there's always a risk when dealing with these kind of tweaks - but if the IHS is only making contact with the die (and not the PCB), wouldn't that be risky?

Maybe there's no chance of that happening though.

The IHS is still in contact with the PCB. Delidding and removing the adhesive just shrinks the gap between the die and IHS.
 

TheCrackInTime

Neo Member
250 is a lot, what is your boost at? You should run heaven or firestrike to make sure your overclock is stable. If it crashes, or you see artifacts (textures not loading, red spots are the most common) then drop the core by 25 or so and retest.

I dropped down to 200 to be safe and let it run Heaven for about 30 minutes. I didn't notice any artifacts on screen and Afterburner is showing that it boosted up to 1415MHz.
 
I guess this might be the right thread for this question. I need some input on fan/radiator setup on a micro-atx build.

I've got a Corsair 350d case, H100i, and a MSI Sea Hawk water cooled GPU (basically a GPU with an additional H55 120mm radiator). The 350d has space for 2 fans in the front, 2 on the top and one on the back.

I'm thinking about putting the H100 at the top with the 2 fans there as exhaust, the H55 at the back as exhaust, and the 2 fans in the front as intake. Does this sound like a good setup? It's also possible to put either the H100 or H55 at the front of the case, but I would need to remove the hard drive mounts (and find somewhere to put those).
 

shanafan

Member
Used Clonezilla to clone a 1TB hard drive to a 4 TB hard drive. Clonezilla worked beautifully, but it created two partitions, both 2 TB each. Well, after a lot of Googling and reading, I learned about MBR and GPIT, and was able to convert the hard drive to a GPIT and that allowed me to extend the partition for all 4 TBs.

No question I had, just a quick summary of my weekend lol.
 

Karl2177

Member
So the Microsoft software swap on Reddit... How reliable is it? I'm just looking for one that accepts PayPal and has some sort of customer protection in case of a bad win10 key.
 

Jezbollah

Member
Used Clonezilla to clone a 1TB hard drive to a 4 TB hard drive. Clonezilla worked beautifully, but it created two partitions, both 2 TB each. Well, after a lot of Googling and reading, I learned about MBR and GPIT, and was able to convert the hard drive to a GPIT and that allowed me to extend the partition for all 4 TBs.

No question I had, just a quick summary of my weekend lol.

Clonezilla is a fantastic tool. Helped me on many an upgrade.
 
I just had a chat with Microsoft Support and they told me I could use my Windows 8.1 key to re-activate Windows 10 on my new machine. I'll try that later, but I was under the impression that wasn't possible?

Anyone tried it?
 

abbyabs

Member
Little confused on how 144Hz monitors work? what is the required FPS needed in order for the 144Hz to kick in..?

If my GPU has average of 70 fps is it worth getting? a 144Hz monitor?
 

Bloodember

Member
I just had a chat with Microsoft Support and they told me I could use my Windows 8.1 key to re-activate Windows 10 on my new machine. I'll try that later, but I was under the impression that wasn't possible?

Anyone tried it?

Yes, it worked just fine. I did that with two computer upgrades back in February.

Little confused on how 144Hz monitors work? what is the required FPS needed in order for the 144Hz to kick in..?

If my GPU has average of 70 fps is it worth getting? a 144Hz monitor?
Look at Hz the same a FPS. So with a 144Hz monitor you would see that 70 fps, but on a 60 Hz monitor it would only be 60 fps max.
 

iHaunter

Member
Small correct.

Sennheiser HD 363D is not

I own a pair myself, they come with two 3.5mm ends, one for audio, one for microphone.

The 363D comes with a small amp adapter that's USB.
 
So the Microsoft software swap on Reddit... How reliable is it? I'm just looking for one that accepts PayPal and has some sort of customer protection in case of a bad win10 key.
Reliable if you're buying from reliable sellers.
Bought numerous keys (MS 7/8.1/10, Office 2013/2016, etc.) from there for various machines. Never had a single issue.
 

FrsDvl

Member
When it comes to adding extra RAM to a PC, would it be best to go with the same RAM that's already in there, i'm looking to add another 8GB to my current 8GB, should i get the same brand/model, or is it not important?
I currently have 2, Corsair Vengeance LPX 4GB DDR4 2400MHz
 

Bloodember

Member
When it comes to adding extra RAM to a PC, would it be best to go with the same RAM that's already in there, i'm looking to add another 8GB to my current 8GB, should i get the same brand/model, or is it not important?
I currently have 2, Corsair Vengeance LPX 4GB DDR4 2400MHz

It's best to get the same ram that is already in there if your adding to it. That way you don't have compatibility issues.
 
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