super-famicom
Member
Damn man, my computers max temp on a full load is 47 C. I literally work in hotter temperatures than that.
Where do you work? A smelting factory?
Damn man, my computers max temp on a full load is 47 C. I literally work in hotter temperatures than that.
What's the best cpu for someone who wants a fast one for gaming, but doesn't know anything about overclocking?
Probably the i5-6500.
Good thinking. It's a good time to wait to either get the latest processors (Zen/Kaby Lake) or save a bit on the old ones (i5/i7 Skylakes). As for mid-range GPUs, there's nothing coming out until maybe Q3 2017. The possibly good thing about that is that maybe supply will slightly surpass demand and finally bring prices down a bit.I’m looking to build a new PC in the near future. My current PC is quite old, an Intel Core 2 Quad 6600 paired with a Radeon HD 7870, so it’s definitely time to upgrade. I don’t plan on re-using any old parts from my PC, and I have a 1920x1200 monitor that I have no real desire to replace.
I’d like to be able to run Gamecube, Wii and possibly PS2 emulation solidly, so my understanding is that requires a good CPU? Ideally I’m looking to spend around $1000 Canadian, but casually browsing components, I realize that might not be realistic, and I’m willing to spend a bit more for a better experience. I’m also willing to wait around until Black Friday and/or Boxing Day to take advantage of sales. So I’m wondering which components are recommended, so I can look out for deals.
Miscellaneous thoughts:
- How much ram is recommended?
- What's a good wattage for a power supply?
- There doesn't seem to be much difference in price between RX 480s and GTX 1060s in Canada, from a quick check
Yes. There's actually even more of a difference than 800Mhz. You also get an extra 4 threads and more cache.the 6700k is still like 800mhz faster even without the overclock though, is that a big difference?
the 6700k is still like 800mhz faster even without the overclock though, is that a big difference?
Thank you very much again for your help.
My last question (for now...) - is there any particular order I should be picking these pieces up? I'll probably spend $400 a month on pieces for the rest of the year and I should have everything I need, just wondering what to get first.
What CPU are you using.
For reference my i7 6700k idles at 30c and goes up to 50c during a stress test.
The i7-6700k doesn't even begin to throttle until 100°C. Anything below 70°C under full load on all cores is acceptable as being pretty safe and anything under 80°C, while not desirable, is probably not going to cause damage as it would never see those temps under normal usage.
Temps of 30 to 50c is fairly normal for computer usage depending on load circumstance.
I've just installed Asus GPU Tweak II, but the built-in OC profile doesn't seem to add much. The default clock goes from 1000MHz to 1026MHz, the boost clock from 1076MHz to 1102MHz and the memory stays at 1753MHz.
Edit - I've just ran Heaven and the monitor in GPU Tweak says it went up to 1253MHz during the benchmark, so I'm somewhat confused.
I just got my GTX 1080 and I was wondering what the optimal g-sync settings are in the nvidia settings. Some time ago I read them here on GAF but I can't find them anymore. Something with vsync on? in the panel but off in the games etc.?
Is there a noticeable visual improvement going from 1680x1050 to 1920x1080?
If you've tried it on the same computer tethered to your cell phone provider and it works, but not when on Comcast, it's obvious it's Comcast.
Abhinav > I just ran a health check on your account to check the connections and the devices, sometimes the modem has signals issues. I am
now going to optimize your connection so it performs at its best.
Abhinav > What we are going to do to fix this permanently is to reprovision
the modem through which the internet service is working . After a
successful registry, we will replenish the signal, send correctional hits to the box to eliminate traffic that is in the network causing this slow speed
connection.
Change the cooler to a Noctua, the 212 cooler isn't that great. You should also add an SSD for the OS drive. Also why are getting an ATX case for an mITX motherboard?
I just sold my GTX 970. I have an i5 6600K and 8GB @2666 DDR4. I'm gonna buy one memory slot but what GPU should I buy? I play on a 50" 1080p Bravia.
Thanks. I edited my post, i'm gonna buy an 4k TV in the future.1070. GTX 1060 wouldn't make much sense considering it's not that faster. Or you can get a 1080 if you're into Gameworks/Supersampling or planning an upgrade into 4K.
Thanks. I edited my post, i'm gonna buy an 4k TV in the future.
Is there a noticeable visual improvement going from 1680x1050 to 1920x1080?
That's just how nvidias gpu boost works. Even if the boost says it's 1100 in gpuz the card will keep increasing the boost until it hits the power or thermal limit when under load. The easiest and safest way to overclock newer nvidia cards is to just max out your powerlimit and thermal limit and let the gpu figure it all out.
What's people's experience with delidding? Did you remove all silicon? Replaced with new silicon or glue?
Use a credit card and isopropyl to remove all adhesive, no need to replace it. The socket clamp holds the IHS in place.
That explains it then. I'm a total noob when it comes to overclocking, but I guess we all have to start somewhere. I followed a video guide earlier and added 250MHz to the core clock, as well as maxing the power and thermal limits in Afterburner, so it seems I'm set for now.
i forgot to tell you that i got this one right now:
CM hyper 212 evo
bought it for $33 some time before now , i can keep it, and i can sell it to get Noctua, what do you think ? and which one you recommend?
as for other kind of MB like mITX to so , i've to research it more cause i know only bout ATX and i'm not sure if i'm gonna forfeit some features to get smaller size
I see!
No risk of damaging the die if there's too much pressure? I mean, sure, there's always a risk when dealing with these kind of tweaks - but if the IHS is only making contact with the die (and not the PCB), wouldn't that be risky?
Maybe there's no chance of that happening though.
250 is a lot, what is your boost at? You should run heaven or firestrike to make sure your overclock is stable. If it crashes, or you see artifacts (textures not loading, red spots are the most common) then drop the core by 25 or so and retest.
The IHS is still in contact with the PCB. Delidding and removing the adhesive just shrinks the gap between the die and IHS.
Good to hear, will probably give it a go this weekend.
If you can get a hold of a delidding tool, do so. It makes the actual delid an idiot-proof twenty second operation.
If you need help, feel free to PM me.
Used Clonezilla to clone a 1TB hard drive to a 4 TB hard drive. Clonezilla worked beautifully, but it created two partitions, both 2 TB each. Well, after a lot of Googling and reading, I learned about MBR and GPIT, and was able to convert the hard drive to a GPIT and that allowed me to extend the partition for all 4 TBs.
No question I had, just a quick summary of my weekend lol.
I just had a chat with Microsoft Support and they told me I could use my Windows 8.1 key to re-activate Windows 10 on my new machine. I'll try that later, but I was under the impression that wasn't possible?
Anyone tried it?
Look at Hz the same a FPS. So with a 144Hz monitor you would see that 70 fps, but on a 60 Hz monitor it would only be 60 fps max.Little confused on how 144Hz monitors work? what is the required FPS needed in order for the 144Hz to kick in..?
If my GPU has average of 70 fps is it worth getting? a 144Hz monitor?
Yes, it worked just fine. I did that with two computer upgrades back in February.
If I want a no fuss or hassle, just plug it in and go rather than build myself is this a decent deal...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpo...hard-drive-black-blue/5374307.p?skuId=5374307
...specs seem good enough and I like the mostly basic look of it.
Reliable if you're buying from reliable sellers.So the Microsoft software swap on Reddit... How reliable is it? I'm just looking for one that accepts PayPal and has some sort of customer protection in case of a bad win10 key.
When it comes to adding extra RAM to a PC, would it be best to go with the same RAM that's already in there, i'm looking to add another 8GB to my current 8GB, should i get the same brand/model, or is it not important?
I currently have 2, Corsair Vengeance LPX 4GB DDR4 2400MHz
It's best to get the same ram that is already in there if your adding to it. That way you don't have compatibility issues.