What model exactly?
Are there 4 wires going into fan header plug?
Rads on intake will always perform better, maybe 5*c in it.
Wouldn't bother too much.
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What model exactly?
Are there 4 wires going into fan header plug?
Rads on intake will always perform better, maybe 5*c in it.
Wouldn't bother too much.
BolognaOni
Member
What else is it running? Is it overclocked?
Board doesn't support SLI
Overpriced HDD
Z series board without K series CPU
Rig like this doesn't deserve a hyper 212
Here's an ITX example
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($43.53 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($127.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.88 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.00 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1529.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 13:06 EDT-0400
And an mATX example that does support SLI:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($43.53 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($106.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($127.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.88 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.00 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1516.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 13:08 EDT-0400
And I wouldn't bother with the extra fans of full ATX.
I beleive kaby lake will use the same socket.
There's nothing else to worry about for the future upgrades. GPU would not be restricted within the next 5-7 years probably by the motherboard or PSU, PCIE 3.0 has a lot of potential yet. PSU can be upgraded but should last 7years.
CrichtonKicks
Member
Is it worth paying more for the i7-6700k over an i5-6600k? Would be upgrading from an i5-2500k.
Go for it. Would help the chip last as long as your 2500K did.
Depends what you're doing on your system. For strictly gaming, likely not, although some games take advantage of hyperthreading.
I came from a 2500K myself and I went for the 6700K. I'll be doing editing on my system, so the decision was a little easier for me. I also don't want to upgrade my cpu/mobo for a very long time, so I went with something a little more pricey than I normally would. If more games start using hyperthreading, I wanted to make sure my system is ready for it. I also got the 6700K at a significant discount.
For gaming right now, though, I'd say a 6600K is the better purchase.
Glass Shark
Banned
Just installed my machine in a new case last night along with an H115i and I'm a little disappointed that my idle temps didn't drop by much. In fact, they're just about the same as they were before on a Hyper 212 EVO. That doesn't seem right to me...
Why would idle temps drop?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Idle temp is useless so don't care about it.
The CPU fan is controlled by the motherboard, it won't make the H115i work any harder at idle than the 212.
Load temp is what counts.
Pagusas
Elden Member
Only worry about load, idle temps can only got so low without extreme direct active cooling. Your at what for idle, 34-38c?
How is the pump noise? I'm considering the h115i and still worried about the pump. Right now my current PC runs almost dead silent (2600k at 4.5) as the Dark Knight 2 works great even at low RPMs. But my new case requires water cooling thanks to only being 85mm in height.
Precisely, and if idle temps were already close to ambient, then they aren't going to drop any more on 'air'.
The advantage is that when you run a game on the PC the fans will have to do little work as the cooling system is already able to dissipate the working TDP of the CPU without ramping up like the Hyper 212 would have had to.
Veritigo_X
Member
Thanks for the tip! I'm probably worrying about it more than I have to, but if I can drop a few degrees just by placing the rad in a different place I'll definitely do it. Gonna mess around with this after work...
lostsupper
Banned
Board is not detecting fan. Check to see if it's fully seated. If so, swap the working fan to the "opt" header to rule out a faulty fan.
If the other fan works in the opt header, your fan was faulty. If it doesn't, test the header with a multimeter to rule out the board.
Rads do work better as intakes, but the CPU will never get near its thermal limit anyway. In your setup with the CPU cooler as an intake you'll either have a negative pressure situation which means more dust, or a much louder system if you compensate by increasing fan speed on those static pressure fans.
Ideally you could replace that aio CPU cooler with an air cooler and use the GPU cooler as one of your intakes.
Currently running a gtx770 and I play league of Legends almost exclusively. It consistently hovers at 140 fps but rarely hits 144fps (have a 144hz monitor) . I have an i5 3570k overclocked to 4.something. my primary issue comes from recording my games with OBS at 1080p 60fps, it takes a preformance hit when I do that (I have the option of offloading the recording to the video card which actually improved the performance a tad)
Would an upgrade to a gtx1060 improve anything here out would I need to go bigger?
Would an upgrade to a gtx1060 improve anything here out would I need to go bigger?
Any good suggestions for 3440 x 1440 monitors?
Thank you, this seems like a better set up for a similar price on what I had earlier. I am a little concerned with working in a smaller case for my first build - do you forsee any jerry rigging required to fit all that in that case?
Thank you, this seems like a better set up for a similar price on what I had earlier. I am a little concerned with working in a smaller case for my first build - do you forsee any jerry rigging required to fit all that in that case?
lostsupper
Banned
The Nano S is super easy to work in. No drive cages, tons of cable management room.
awesome thanks!
also i just noticed the My Hero Academia reference in the title 👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾
I can't decide what i want to do, i'm going out today to get a new video card.
My original plan was getting a 1060 6gb + another 8gb of RAM for my pc ( i'm currently at 8GB)
At the same time, i'm considering getting a 1070 instead, and not buying any extra RAM.
What would you guys recon would be the best decision?
I'm not planning on playing anything above 1080p if that matters.
My original plan was getting a 1060 6gb + another 8gb of RAM for my pc ( i'm currently at 8GB)
At the same time, i'm considering getting a 1070 instead, and not buying any extra RAM.
What would you guys recon would be the best decision?
I'm not planning on playing anything above 1080p if that matters.
Depends, are you planning to do CPU intensive tasks? If not, then 6600k is more then good enough for gaming.
CrisysCoreBR
Neo Member
Guys, what would be a better setup?
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/gnrgui/saved/2ssYJx
or
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/gnrgui/saved/LmWZLk
The R7 370 I already have from my old build, I pretend to upgrade that as well in the future.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/gnrgui/saved/2ssYJx
or
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/gnrgui/saved/LmWZLk
The R7 370 I already have from my old build, I pretend to upgrade that as well in the future.
You aren't going to have a problem with this PSU.
CrichtonKicks
Member
Just gaming. But since CPU swaps aren't as easy as video card swaps I would hope to get a good, long life out of the upgrade.
TheCrackInTime
Neo Member
Thanks for the info/advice. Unfortunately I'll have to wait a few days, as I've just had to RMA my monitor after it wouldn't stop flickering (I know it's not the PC, because the same thing happens when I switch inputs to my Xbox One and PS TV). My fingers are crossed that it doesn't take too long.
How much are you willing to spend?
The best 3440x1440 gaming monitor out there right now is the ASUS ROG PG348Q, but it's not cheap.
So my ISP had an outage today so I decided to play some old games that didn't require a connection. Started playing CoD:MW2 and in the snowmobile chase scene (3rd mission?) all of the sudden my screen goes black, my GTX 1080 goes up to 100% fan speed and so does all of my case fans and CPU cooler. I have no idea what happened but it was a scary moment when everything became unresponsive. I know it's a vague thing to happen but does anyone have idea what it may have been? I had to do a hard shut down to get everything back running.
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW DT oc 2ghz
i5 6600k oc 4.4ghz
16GB DDR4 3000mhz
windows 10
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW DT oc 2ghz
i5 6600k oc 4.4ghz
16GB DDR4 3000mhz
windows 10
Re check CPU/RAM OC.
How did you stress test your overclocks (be specific)? And for how long?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Go for an i7. People with i5 are getting CPU bottlenecked left and right in Deus Ex Mankind Divided, as a recent example.
I can only see games getting better and better at multithreading from now on.
Sounds like unstable overclocks. Can be either CPU or GPU. Black screen usually means GPU driver crash, whole system then locks up because it failed to recover from the crash. Try reduce GPU OC first and try to reproduce the issue. If that still doesn't help then lower CPU OC.
Edit: Hopefully it's not the RAM OC like LilJoka mentions, it's the most annoying pain in the ass to make stable.
Thanks I'll try that. It just doesn't make sense to me. With afterburner's OSD it shows I'm using 2% of my GPU when playing MW2. Then I can play games like DOOM and BF1 beta maxed out and have zero issues. Maybe it's just a problem with it being an old game.
Lower %load just means it can take longer to crash as the "rate of tests" is much lower. Doesn't mean you won't roll a 9000 on your first roll of a 9000 side dice.
jfoul
Member
$34.99 CRYORIG H7
Can someone explain to me what I'm looking and paying for in a motherboard and higher priced motherboards? I feel it's a lot about what connections it gives, and about OC features and such. Perhaps most intriguingly is supported RAM bus speeds? Should I aim for higher than 2133MHz DDR4 with a 6700K/(GTX 1080 or 1070) setup? Basically, why should I pick a more expensive than 60$ mobo?
CrichtonKicks
Member
Anyone want to comment on this upgrade? I'm already running a 1070 and have plenty of storage. Just trying to upgrade my i5-2500k combo:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.49 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 6 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($173.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $788.43
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.49 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 6 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($173.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $788.43
Elven_Star
Member
It's perfect. You probably won't need a 750W power supply, but if the cost is no issue, it's nice to have that peace of mind.
I need help guys:!
I am thinking of upgrading my PC. I built one a year ago but for some reason i want to upgrade my cpu. Is there anything better on the market right now that would give me significant improvement?
CPU:
Intel Core i5-4460 Haswell Quad-Core 3.2 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54460 Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4600
Motherboard
ASRock H97M Pro4 LGA 1150 Intel H97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
GPU
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 AMP!, ZT-P10600B-10M, 6GB GDDR5 Super Compact Dual-Fan IceStorm Cooling FREEZE Fan Stop
Or its best for me to wait until something better comes out?
I am thinking of upgrading my PC. I built one a year ago but for some reason i want to upgrade my cpu. Is there anything better on the market right now that would give me significant improvement?
CPU:
Intel Core i5-4460 Haswell Quad-Core 3.2 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54460 Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4600
Motherboard
ASRock H97M Pro4 LGA 1150 Intel H97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
GPU
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 AMP!, ZT-P10600B-10M, 6GB GDDR5 Super Compact Dual-Fan IceStorm Cooling FREEZE Fan Stop
Or its best for me to wait until something better comes out?
Athreous
Member
Next week I'll upgrade my gtx 680, mostly for a gtx 1070 or a gtx 980 ti...
the 1070 will cost me around 430$ (Founder's Edition), but some gafers are selling their 980 ti for 300-330$...
I won't upgrade my led monitor for a while, because I just bought a used Asus 144hz 1080p which will work just fine for a year or two =p
the 1070 will cost me around 430$ (Founder's Edition), but some gafers are selling their 980 ti for 300-330$...
I won't upgrade my led monitor for a while, because I just bought a used Asus 144hz 1080p which will work just fine for a year or two =p
lordfuzzybutt
Member
If you only want to upgrade cpu then buy a 4790k. Kaby lake is coming but not soon and you will have to upgrade the motherboard and ram. Plus it likely won't bring too much improvement over the 4790k.
The 4790k is still very good and should be quite a boost for you.
Glass Shark
Banned
Ok, that makes sense. Not really sure why I was expecting idle temps to drop...
The pump noise is not bad at all. I switched it from Quiet to Performance and couldn't tell a difference. The fans get LOUD, though. I might end up replacing them with something a bit quieter.
Why would he need a better cooler for a non-overclockable CPU? This is a genuine question, as I don't see the point of that.
TheVoidDragon
Member
At the moment i have a Intel i5-2320 and a Foxconn H61MXL/H61MXL-K Motherboard. Is it worth upgrading those? Looking at some benchmarks for the CPU it seems to score pretty low, but the one in the "good" category here doesn't seem like a very significant difference, and the next one seems a bit too expensive.
Some reasons over many random boards I've purchased, more expensive boards:
Better 8pin/24pin positioning
Better SATA port positioning
More 3 pin fan headers
Or 4 pin fan headers all round
4 pin fan headers that do both voltage and pwm
Better power phase circuitry for higher overclocks
Better VRM cooling
More and more comprehensive read IO ports
Ps2 port for extreme overclocking (no need for USB and its polling)
More temperature sensors around the board
More overclocking options to tweak
Better quality components all round, tighter component tolerances and higher heat ratings increasing long term reliability
Most z170 boards should easily do 3000mhz ram speeds, which is a good spot.
Or just force them to be silent all the time. Much cheaper. The fan game is expensive and disappointing.
Pagusas
Elden Member
Yeah no matter what I get for my cooling I'll be changing out the fans for some ultra quiets.
[posted from TechSupport thread...]
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...-chassis-black
In Win 303 - this would look great in my living room hooked up to tv - but worried about temps and airflow with my shiny new GTX1060 installed...does anyone have any experience?
So 5 of these bad boys should help...(3 on top, 1 on bottom, 1 on back)
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...000rpm-pwm-fan
Thoughts?
The specs I'm going to install are, along with the 5 Noctua fans mentioned above:
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...-chassis-black
In Win 303 - this would look great in my living room hooked up to tv - but worried about temps and airflow with my shiny new GTX1060 installed...does anyone have any experience?
So 5 of these bad boys should help...(3 on top, 1 on bottom, 1 on back)
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...000rpm-pwm-fan
Thoughts?
The specs I'm going to install are, along with the 5 Noctua fans mentioned above:
- RAM: 16GB Corsair Dominator
- CPU: Intel i5 4670
- CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i Low Profile Intel CPU Cooler
- Graphics: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 Gaming X 6GB Video Card
- Mobo: MSI Z97 Gaming 5 Intel LGA 1150 ATX Motherboard
- PSU: Corsair RM750i 750W 80+ Gold Modular Power Supply
- SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD MZ-75E500
Bloodember
Member
You'll be fine.
paperspace
Member
Damnit, I just can't decide on a monitor! I'm torn between Asus MG279Q, Acer XB271HU and Asus PG279Q.
They're all 1440p, IPS and 144Hz, but the current pros and cons are:
Asus MG279Q (~$600)
A part of me tells me I shouldn't get a monitor without G-Sync if I'm putting down $600. But is G-Sync worth $230-$260 extra?
They're all 1440p, IPS and 144Hz, but the current pros and cons are:
Asus MG279Q (~$600)
[+] Almost reasonable price- [+] More inputs
- [-] No G-Sync
- [-] Possibly somewhat worse IQ than the rest, but not sure
[+] G-Sync- [+] Seems to have less backlight bleeding than any of these
- [+] 165Hz
- [-] Expensive
- [-] Not in stock anywhere
[+] G-Sync- [+] 165Hz
- [-] Expensive
- [-] Not in stock anywhere
A part of me tells me I shouldn't get a monitor without G-Sync if I'm putting down $600. But is G-Sync worth $230-$260 extra?
Nostremitus
Member
I bought the MG297Q for my wife. It has better image quality than my LG. She likes it. It doesn't have G-sync but it does have Adaptive Sync, so if Nvidia ever decides to start supporting the VESA standard, then you'd be set...
My wife has an AMD GPU so she's getting the Freesync benefit. It really comes down to wherther you think it's worth it.
Honestly, though, if you're going to be gaming at 120+ FPS, you don't really need G-sync, Freesync, or Vsync. The frames are going by so fast that the effects of screen tearing stop being noticeable... for me anyway... It's just not there anymore.
OmegaDL50
Member
It's go time!
I have been waiting for this!
Basically did a straight motherboard swap with a GPU upgrade.
Upgraded from an i5 3570k, 8GB DDR3 1866MHz, and HD7950.
Now have a i7 6700k, 32GB DDR4, and GTX 1070.
Reused the case, hdds, and psu.
Took about 2 hours to set everything up, format and reinstall Windows. Ran Prime95 for about 5 hours. cpu temps never exceeded beyond 53c at stock clocks.
CPU idles at around 21c to 24c.
I have a question, is 4.5Ghz a safe overclock? Also what is considered a "safe" temperature for a 6700k at 4.5Ghz? Thanks.
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