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[ndawgdrake]

Does the frostbite engine really stress a GPU?

Reason I'm asking is my 970 OCs to 1.5ghz boost clock just fine for most games (GTAV, Witcher 3) but for Battlefield 4 I have to lower it to 1.45 ghz.

 

[Mystic654]

Trying to create my own PSU cables. I'm not 100% sure how to go about creating the Sata power cables. Anyone know of a guide that shows the process?

 

[Donniewahlberg]

Hey folks, upgrading my GPU soon I think. It's a 770 2gb so it's old anyway, but I have been suffering some hefty coil whine when I play games at 60fps as of late. The whine stops if I put the game on pause or minimise, and I've tried to make sure it's not the other components by running prime95. I figured if it was the PSU or anything else it would have popped up during that but no whine at all. The GPU is not one of the better brands, it's a Palit, and the PSU is a Corsair tx650m. The corsair seems to get decent reviews and I can't find any particular reports saying anything avout that specific PSU causing whine.

Basically what I'm building up to here is, do you guys think I'm safe right now in assuming the whine is down to the GPU (it certainly sounds like it's coming from it), and that changing out the GPU will fix that problem OR is there more due diligence I could do to make sure it's not a PSU problem? As mentioned it goes away if I minimise or pause the game, or limit my frames to 30 fps, it seems to be an issue for the GPU when it goes under heavy load. I read a poor PSU can cause the whine, even if it's from the GPU, but like I said, nothing during the prime95 stress tests.

 

[SmartWaffles]

Hey folks, upgrading my GPU soon I think. It's a 770 2gb so it's old anyway, but I have been suffering some hefty coil whine when I play games at 60fps as of late. The whine stops if I put the game on pause or minimise, and I've tried to make sure it's not the other components by running prime95. I figured if it was the PSU or anything else it would have popped up during that but no whine at all. The GPU is not one of the better brands, it's a Palit, and the PSU is a Corsair tx650m. The corsair seems to get decent reviews and I can't find any particular reports saying anything avout that specific PSU causing whine.

Basically what I'm building up to here is, do you guys think I'm safe right now in assuming the whine is down to the GPU (it certainly sounds like it's coming from it), and that changing out the GPU will fix that problem OR is there more due diligence I could do to make sure it's not a PSU problem? As mentioned it goes away if I minimise or pause the game, or limit my frames to 30 fps, it seems to be an issue for the GPU when it goes under heavy load.

That sounds definitely the GPU, nothing else. Heavy load is exactly the reason of coil whine.

 

[ColdDeckEd]

I dropped down to 200 to be safe and let it run Heaven for about 30 minutes. I didn't notice any artifacts on screen and Afterburner is showing that it boosted up to 1415MHz.

That's a good start you can try going back to 250, test for stability, then keep raising it by 20 until you start to notice artifacts, then go back 10 and you'll have found you max overclock without additional voltage. After that you can get to work on the memory.

 

[Donniewahlberg]

That sounds definitely the GPU, nothing else. Heavy load is exactly the reason of coil whine.

Suuuuper quick answer, appreciate that man, cheers.

 

[abbyabs]

Look at Hz the same a FPS. So with a 144Hz monitor you would see that 70 fps, but on a 60 Hz monitor it would only be 60 fps max.

Sill confused lol

 

[Zeneric]

n/m

 

[lostsupper]

Sill confused lol

Hz means "per second." A 60Hz display can't display frames faster than 60 times per second. A 144Hz monitor can display frames 144 times per second so you'd be able to see 70fps on it, but not on a 60Hz monitor.

 

[The Hamburglar]

Sill confused lol

If you're running 70fps on a 60hz monitor you will only actually see 60fps as your monitor can't produce the other 10fps.

If you run 70fps on a 144hz monitor you will see the 70fps plus any fps up to 144hz.

 

[paperspace]

Little confused on how 144Hz monitors work? what is the required FPS needed in order for the 144Hz to kick in..?

If my GPU has average of 70 fps is it worth getting? a 144Hz monitor?

144Hz is "activated" constantly, no matter the framerate - i.e. your display will always update 144 times per second. Unless you use G-Sync/FreeSync, in which case the monitor is updating in accordance with the game (e.g. 70fps in-game = 70Hz monitor), for a smoother experience.

Even if you're playing at 70fps, you'll still see some benefits (outside of the 10fps boost you'll be able to see) like less screen-tearing and less input lag.

The big upgrade though is the refresh rate so it's naturally more noticeable if you play at higher framerates. So whether it's worth it or not depends on a few factors: what games you're playing, how many games you can play at higher framerates, how important smooth framerate is to you and if you're willing to sacrifice some effects to achieve higher framerates in case a game underperforms. I mean, if you're playing CSGO or Overwatch I imagine you'd be fine with lower settings and a higher framerate, but these games aren't very demanding so it's possible it isn't even needed.

 

[Vipu]

Suuuuper quick answer, appreciate that man, cheers.

To be sure get some tube and listen near gpu and psu with it.
Like kitchen paper roll etc, ear to 1 end, other end near gpu/psu.

 

[Bloodember]

144Hz is activated constantly, no matter the framerate, i.e. your display will always update 144 times per second. Unless you use G-Sync/FreeSync, in which case the monitor is updating in accordance with the game (e.g. 70fps in-game = 70Hz monitor), for a smoother experience.

Even if you're playing at 70fps, you'll still see some benefits like less screen-tearing and less input lag.

The big upgrade is the refresh rate so it's naturally more noticeable if you play at higher framerates.

If you're running 70fps on a 60hz monitor you will only actually see 60fps as your monitor can't produce the other 10fps.

If you run 70fps on a 144hz monitor you will see the 70fps plus any fps up to 144hz.

Hz means "per second." A 60Hz display can't display frames faster than 60 times per second. A 144Hz monitor can display frames 144 times per second so you'd be able to see 70fps on it, but not on a 60Hz monitor.

Sill confused lol

Please see the above quoted responses, they explain it pretty well.

 

[RootCause]

Regarding audio: In that case Windows likely has already a newer driver than the one you try to install.
You start setup, it uninstalls, reboots, Windows reinstalls its own newer driver on boot, the setup to install starts and notices an installed driver and offers to uninstall. Just skip it.

And regarding he TV-audio: Click the speker-symbol in the task bar, click on the speaker-name and select your TV.

Thanks. Got all the drivers updated. Getting audio through my sound system.


Now to install steam, and the GOG launcher. And play some Evil Within.

Thanks to everyone that took some of their time to help me out.

 

[Elitist1945]

Since I'm moving in a few days, should I take the GPU out of my PC when transporting it or is it fine as is?

 

[luoapp]

Since I'm moving in a few days, should I take the GPU out of my PC when transporting it or is it fine as is?

It's fine if you have all the screws on. It's not that heavy if you have space left in your suitcase.

 

[Sectorseven]

I'm trying to build my buddies PC and make it as fast as I can, but he's across the country and I don't see him too often. Should I overclock it? If he's playing one day and something goes wrong, I won't be there to help him.

 

[RootCause]

is Trim enabled by default on win 10?

 

[abbyabs]

If you're running 70fps on a 60hz monitor you will only actually see 60fps as your monitor can't produce the other 10fps.

If you run 70fps on a 144hz monitor you will see the 70fps plus any fps up to 144hz.

Hz means "per second." A 60Hz display can't display frames faster than 60 times per second. A 144Hz monitor can display frames 144 times per second so you'd be able to see 70fps on it, but not on a 60Hz monitor.

144Hz is "activated" constantly, no matter the framerate - i.e. your display will always update 144 times per second. Unless you use G-Sync/FreeSync, in which case the monitor is updating in accordance with the game (e.g. 70fps in-game = 70Hz monitor), for a smoother experience.

Even if you're playing at 70fps, you'll still see some benefits (outside of the 10fps boost you'll be able to see) like less screen-tearing and less input lag.

The big upgrade though is the refresh rate so it's naturally more noticeable if you play at higher framerates. So whether it's worth it or not depends on a few factors: what games you're playing, how many games you can play at higher framerates, how important smooth framerate is to you and if you're willing to sacrifice some effects to achieve higher framerates in case a game underperforms. I mean, if you're playing CSGO or Overwatch I imagine you'd be fine with lower settings and a higer framerate.

Thank you make sense now, I will buy a RX 480 first and see how that runs then decided on which monitor to get.

 

[Donniewahlberg]

To be sure get some tube and listen near gpu and psu with it.
Like kitchen paper roll etc, ear to 1 end, other end near gpu/psu.

I gave that a shot and yea it's totally from the GPU itself, cheers

 

[Hironobu Sakaguchi]

It's up to you, if it where me, I'd sell it and get a Noctua NH-D15, if I were to go with air cooling.

The motherboard you have listed is a mITX. The one you have listed I actually use, it's a great board if you decide to go with it.

FYI, this is my old set that i sold entirely due to lack of usage because it's full tower and old specs tho it's more than enough :
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ma3oony/saved/wFWPxr

now as you see, asrock mobo is mITX , and based on the set i put here , you recommend to change cooler and PSU

as for PSU , VGA ,cooler and RAM if it's not LP, should i worry but not being fit into mITX?

as for mid tower, i believe a regular mobo size, non-LP RAM and VGA would be fitted without issues , right?

 

[Hironobu Sakaguchi]

I just had a chat with Microsoft Support and they told me I could use my Windows 8.1 key to re-activate Windows 10 on my new machine. I'll try that later, but I was under the impression that wasn't possible?

Anyone tried it?

i have win 8 key and the upgraded key from free upgrade campaign and they're so different.
does is it mean that i've 2 valid keys for 2 machines?

 

[Celcius]

is Trim enabled by default on win 10?

Yes: http://www.howtogeek.com/257196/how...nabled-for-your-ssd-and-enable-it-if-it-isnt/

 

[Amagon]

So I am in the middle of purchasing parts for this build I am doing, (the first time in over 10 years!). The parts are located down below for people to gawk over and yell at me about it.

But, I would like to purchase an UPS to protect this rig and would like some input on what you guys currently have or recommend?

Down the line, I also like to get a surge protector/UPS for my living room setup but that is a different story.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Extreme7+ ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($127.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.00 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($155.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.94 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($48.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1732.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-14 21:13 EDT-0400

 

[RootCause]

I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, being a build a PC thread and all, but I didn't know where to ask. while trying to increase the resolution on The Evil Within, the screen zooms in. Any workaround this?

Never mind. Found the solution.

 

[flipswitch]

I have the Acer Predator XB1 27inch WQHD IPS G-Sync 144Hz XB271HU monitor.

There's like a border going around the screen, not sure if you can make it out in the pic.

Is anyone else getting this?

 

[Bloodember]

FYI, this is my old set that i sold entirely due to lack of usage because it's full tower and old specs tho it's more than enough :
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ma3oony/saved/wFWPxr

now as you see, asrock mobo is mITX , and based on the set i put here , you recommend to change cooler and PSU

as for PSU , VGA ,cooler and RAM if it's not LP, should i worry but not being fit into mITX?

as for mid tower, i believe a regular mobo size, non-LP RAM and VGA would be fitted without issues , right?

The RAM you have listed, the Corsair Vengeance LPX, will fit under the Noctua D15. Any video card will work on the motherboard, just make sure your case is big enough for it to fit. The PSU you have is fine, but you can save some money by going with a EVGA model, the premium for platinum PSU's is ridiculous. If you don't want to go air, you can get a AIO water cooler, then you don't need to worry about clearance. I use the NZXT X61 AIO watercooler, the NZXT X41 works just as good though.

i have win 8 key and the upgraded key from free upgrade campaign and they're so different.
does is it mean that i've 2 valid keys for 2 machines?

You don't get a new key with the Windows 10 upgrade.

I have the Acer Predator XB1 27inch WQHD IPS G-Sync 144Hz XB271HU monitor.
There's like a border going around the screen, not sure if you can make it out in the pic.
Is anyone else getting this?

You can adjust your screen using the controls on the monitor, that's probably all you need to do.

 

[RedSwirl]

Anybody got safe methods of hiding/deactivating external LED lights on computer cases without turning it off or disconnecting the cables internally?

To be specific, my case is an NZXT Phantom that only has lights for the fans and power on the outside of the case. I'm not dealing with any motherboard lights or anything.

 

[z3phon]

between the Corsair H115i and NZXT Kraken X61 which one is a better CPU cooler, hardware and software wise.

 

[Bravoexo]

60/144hz without variable refresh tech, like G-sync or freesync, doesn't output something in the middle...it'll still run at the refresh rate dictated by the OS monitor resolution setting... if it's 144hz then it's always at 144hz.

A game running fps not 'in sync' with that has it's monitor 'interpolating' the missing frames by either doubling them, or tearing them. (when the whole frame isn't fully rendered but mid way through, the portions of the next frame is used instead to complete the frame)

 

[Bloodember]

between the Corsair H115i and NZXT Kraken X61 which one is a better CPU cooler, hardware and software wise.

They are roughly the same. But, the X61 is quieter. I do have the X61 and I can't hear it.

 

[Evo X]

between the Corsair H115i and NZXT Kraken X61 which one is a better CPU cooler, hardware and software wise.

Kraken X61

 

[jfoul]

Is there much of a performance difference between DDR4 3000-3400? I'm looking at the following 2x8(16GB) kits. I think most of these kits are Samsung and OC well anyways.

DDR4 3000
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB $76.99 (after Promo Code: EMCENFH39.

DDR4 3200
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB

DDR4 3200
G.SKILL TridentZ Series 16GB

 

[RamaTheVoice]

Is there much of a performance difference between DDR4 3000-3400?

Nope.

 

[jon bones]

Is there much of a performance difference between DDR4 3000-3400? I'm looking at the following 2x8(16GB) kits. I think most of these kits are Samsung and OC well anyways.

DDR4 3000
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB $76.99 (after Promo Code: EMCENFH39.

DDR4 3200
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB

DDR4 3200
G.SKILL TridentZ Series 16GB

Nope.

Thanks for this info - been trying to pick RAM myself. What's the minimum clock speed one should look for? DDR4 3000?

Also, I like being able to play a game on one monitor and watch something on the other - would it be worth bouncing up to 32 GB RAM from 16?

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

Thanks for this info - been trying to pick RAM myself. What's the minimum clock speed one should look for? DDR4 3000?

Also, I like being able to play a game on one monitor and watch something on the other - would it be worth bouncing up to 32 GB RAM from 16?

Sticking to DDR4, cas 15 is fine. It's usually the sweet spot for price performance too.

I have 16GBs of RAM and so far it's been fine doing the bolded, plus with extra tabs in browsers.

Still, if I were you, I would still go with 32GBs, some will say it's overkill but it's really not that much, imo.

EDIT: if you do go 32GBs, still go with 2 sticks. It will be easier to overclock your system than 4 sticks.

 

[jon bones]

Sticking to DDR4, cas 15 is fine. It's usually the sweet spot for price performance too.

I have 16GBs of RAM and so far it's been fine doing the bolded, plus with extra tabs in browsers.

Still, if I were you, I would still go with 32GBs, some will say it's overkill but it's really not that much, imo.

EDIT: if you do go 32GBs, still go with 2 sticks. It will be easier to overclock your system than 4 sticks.

Thanks, I'll look into it.

I'd also like people's opinions on the 'upgradability' of my set up - I want to ensure this PC is a platform for me to upgrade piece by piece over the years if I care to:



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.38 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($156.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.88 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.00 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1509.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 09:09 EDT-0400

 

[Veritigo_X]

I guess this might be the right thread for this question. I need some input on fan/radiator setup on a micro-atx build.

I've got a Corsair 350d case, H100i, and a MSI Sea Hawk water cooled GPU (basically a GPU with an additional H55 120mm radiator). The 350d has space for 2 fans in the front, 2 on the top and one on the back.

I'm thinking about putting the H100 at the top with the 2 fans there as exhaust, the H55 at the back as exhaust, and the 2 fans in the front as intake. Does this sound like a good setup? It's also possible to put either the H100 or H55 at the front of the case, but I would need to remove the hard drive mounts (and find somewhere to put those).

Any input on this? I'll probably mess around with different setups tonight and see how temps compare but I'm curious if anyone has any ideas that could save me some time finding the best configuration.

 

[Anustart]

Will my 500w PSU (it's a good one) be enough to push a 1070?

.

 

[e90Mark]

.

Yes

 

[lostsupper]

Any input on this? I'll probably mess around with different setups tonight and see how temps compare but I'm curious if anyone has any ideas that could save me some time finding the best configuration.

GPU cooler as rear exhaust. CPU cooler as top exhaust. Unrestricted, filtered fans as front intake. That will let you run both coolers slower and quieter while still having ample cool air intake and slight positive pressure.

Thanks, I'll look into it.

I'd also like people's opinions on the 'upgradability' of my set up - I want to ensure this PC is a platform for me to upgrade piece by piece over the years if I care to:



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.38 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($156.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.88 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.00 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1509.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 09:09 EDT-0400

Get a better cooler.

 

[jon bones]

Get a better cooler.

would you suggest at Noctura cpu cooler?

 

[Veritigo_X]

GPU cooler as rear exhaust. CPU cooler as top exhaust. Unrestricted, filtered fans as front intake. That will let you run both coolers slower and quieter while still having ample cool air intake and slight positive pressure.

Thank you! That seemed like the most common sense configuration but I just wanted to make sure. The only real worry is the 350d has a front plate that can block airflow (Corsair claims it doesn't but I can't see how that's true). Thankfully they offer a high airflow front plate that should help with that.

 

[Bloodember]

Thanks, I'll look into it.

I'd also like people's opinions on the 'upgradability' of my set up - I want to ensure this PC is a platform for me to upgrade piece by piece over the years if I care to:



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.38 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($156.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.88 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.00 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1509.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 09:09 EDT-0400

would you suggest at Noctura cpu cooler?

Yes, or an AIO watercooler, like the NZXT Kraken X41. As for the Noctua, the D15 is a great cooler.

 

[Karl2177]

So I got everything installed last night sand it runs, but only 1 of the noctua fans is running. The main one that's plugged into the cpu_fan plug and the other one is plugged into the cpu_opt plug. It's only at 30C so will it not kick in until it's hotter?

 

[jfoul]

I'm looking to get more hardware for my 240mm AIO. I really don't want to buy this $5 screw kit from Corsair. Anybody know if I can find these screws in black at a hardware store?

Edit: I'm trying to find the specs for these screws.

 

[Bloodember]

I'm looking to get more hardware for my 240mm AIO. I really don't want to buy this $5 screw kit from Corsair. Anybody know if I can find these screws in black at a hardware store?

Probably.

 

[jfoul]

Thanks, I'll look into it.

I'd also like people's opinions on the 'upgradability' of my set up - I want to ensure this PC is a platform for me to upgrade piece by piece over the years if I care to:



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.38 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($156.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.88 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($449.00 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1509.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 09:09 EDT-0400

I would spend a little more for the i7 6700K. They have been going for $299 recently. Also, a better cooler. Noctua & Cryorig offer nice tower coolers with good mounting mechanisms. For AIO, the NZXT X31 & X41 are nice coolers.

 

[lostsupper]

would you suggest at Noctura cpu cooler?

Anything from Noctua. Cryorig or Be quiet if Noctua's color scheme bothers you.

So I got everything installed last night sand it runs, but only 1 of the noctua fans is running. The main one that's plugged into the cpu_fan plug and the other one is plugged into the cpu_opt plug. It's only at 30C so will it not kick in until it's hotter?

What motherboard? How is that fan configured in software?

 

[Karl2177]

What motherboard? How is that fan configured in software?

Asus Z170 pro gaming aura. In the BIOS, it says N/A in the cpu_opt plug, while it shows the rpm of the other fan