• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

Status
Not open for further replies.

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
I have an AMD A8-5600K APU 3.6Ghz Processor

Different motherboards have different maximum RAM speeds, CPU doesn't matter much.

That said, I wouldn't invest much money into that system. If you are absolutely going to get 16GB I'd say either get another kit exactly like the one you have to double it, or whatever the cheapest 2x8GB kit you can find is.
 
I have an AMD A8-5600K APU 3.6Ghz Processor

Different motherboards have different maximum RAM speeds, CPU doesn't matter much.

That said, I wouldn't invest much money into that system. If you are absolutely going to get 16GB I'd say either get another kit exactly like the one you have to double it, or whatever the cheapest 2x8GB kit you can find is.

Yeah that was more what I was getting at. For example if your board only handles up to 1333 MHz, buying 2400 MHz is both an exercise in futility and a waste of money.
 

J_Viper

Member
Apologies if this is the wrong place to ask this, but I have a question about physical PC games nowadays.

Do I need to install the discs? Or is there a code inside the box I can insert into Steam that will let me download it?

The PC I may buy is not equipped with a disc drive, and I'm interested in buying Mafia 3 physically, since Best Buy has good deal.
 

kuYuri

Member
Apologies if this is the wrong place to ask this, but I have a question about physical PC games nowadays.

Do I need to install the discs? Or is there a code inside the box I can insert into Steam that will let me download it?

The PC I may buy is not equipped with a disc drive, and I'm interested in buying Mafia 3 physically, since Best Buy has good deal.

Yes, all Steam games that have a physical disc should also have a code in the box that you can redeem on Steam.
 

kuYuri

Member
I did not know this. Now I can check my local store for some deals too.
So these will also have Steam achievements and all that right?

Depends on the game, I would recommend visiting the Steam store page for whatever game you're thinking of getting and confirming it there. Generally speaking, most games released in the last few years should have them, but double check to make sure.
 

J_Viper

Member
So how frowned upon is purchasing a pre-built rig?

I have zero confidence in my ability to build it myself. I've watched some videos, read some walk-throughs, and they just turn my brain into spaghetti. Even setting up my router gave me a headache, I can't imagine how nerve racking it would be to handle these parts worth hundreds of dollars.

I'm thinking of this PC, along with this monitor

For the sake of a healthy state state of mind and convenience, is it that horrible of a decision?

I also have a five dollar coupon
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8hPGpwZLbQ#action=share

Photo sets here.

aMpQpUsl.jpg


[E]xcelsior [M]axi[MA]

Core i7 5930K - 4.6Ghz OC
Asus ROG Rampage V Extreme motherboard
8 x 4GB (32GB) Corsair Dominator Pro DDR4-3200
Samsung 950 Pro M.2 NVME 512GB
NZXT Phantom 820 case
2 x Nvidia Titan X Pascal SLI - 2050Mhz core/11Ghz memory OC
4TB Western Digital Black 7200rpm HDD
Corsair AX1500i 1500W PSU
EVGA High Bandwidth SLI Bridge

Liquid cooling system - Bitspower fittings, PETG hard tubing, Bitspower Flow Indicator, dual Bitspower D5 coolant pumps, Bitspower Z-Multi reservoir, EKWB Coolstream 360 & 240 radiators, Corsair SPL120 fans (custom green), EKWB Pastel Green Liquid Coolant, 2 x EKWB Titan X Pascal Waterblocks & Backplates, EKWB CPU Waterblock.

Accoutrements: Nvidia GeForce GTX case emblem laser-cut acrylic, Nvidia GeForce GTX inner case emblem laser-cut acrylic, GeForce GTX Titan X PSU shroud laser-cut & internally lighted, Lamptron PCIE slot covers in Lime Green. Custom Revolution Technologia Black Green Sleeved cables.

Firestrike Ultra Hall of Fame score of 13,493, ranked 69. http://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/fire+strike+3dmark+score+ultra+preset/version+1.1/2+gpu

Her name is (E)xcelsior (M)axi(MA). Or EMMA for short. Translated from Latin meaning "Above and Beyond The Maximum Limit".
 

Edgeward

Member
Would an upgrade in ram give me any reasonable benefit in game performance? I have a 2500k with a AMD 7950 HD and while I know it won't give me high settings for today's games, I feel it should run better framerate wise on lower settings but it feels like it's underperforming.

And if so, if there is a recommendation on what ram I should get would also be appreciated.


Slots 3 and 4 are 1 and 2 repeated so that combines to the 12gb.
 

Jesb

Member
Does doom really require more than 8gb of ram? It crashes to desktop saying my memory is low. Guess I need to buy new ram. What brands are you guys using. Is crucial still good?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
So how frowned upon is purchasing a pre-built rig?

I have zero confidence in my ability to build it myself. I've watched some videos, read some walk-throughs, and they just turn my brain into spaghetti. Even setting up my router gave me a headache, I can't imagine how nerve racking it would be to handle these parts worth hundreds of dollars.

I'm thinking of this PC, along with this monitor

For the sake of a healthy state state of mind and convenience, is it that horrible of a decision?

I also have a five dollar coupon

That coupon would cover about 2% of the additional price they are charging.

The way I see it, assembling the PC is one of the easier parts of PC ownership. Troubleshooting software or hardware, and effective part selection (not just compatibility but deals and price/performance) is harder than assembly.

Buying a prebuilt is also more or less committing to throwing the entire thing away a few years down the road and spending another $1500 on another one. Whereas building yourself gets you some components you know you can stick with and upgrade piecemeal. It's both immediately cheaper and saves even more in the long run. Maybe something like a Cyberpower PC is more upgrade friendly than your standard HP trash that sometimes doesn't even include a PSU capable of powering the included GPU, but you still lose all choice in components and can't make decisions that will make better long term investments.
 
Would an upgrade in ram give me any reasonable benefit in game performance? I have a 2500k with a AMD 7950 HD and while I know it won't give me high settings for today's games, I feel it should run better framerate wise on lower settings but it feels like it's underperforming.

And if so, if there is a recommendation on what ram I should get would also be appreciated.



Slots 3 and 4 are 1 and 2 repeated so that combines to the 12gb.

No it would only show up in benchmarks really. That being said, Samsung memory is supposed to overclock very well. If you have the time you can try setting your dram voltage to 1.6-1.65 and overclocking it.
 

DonMigs85

Member
Would an upgrade in ram give me any reasonable benefit in game performance? I have a 2500k with a AMD 7950 HD and while I know it won't give me high settings for today's games, I feel it should run better framerate wise on lower settings but it feels like it's underperforming.

And if so, if there is a recommendation on what ram I should get would also be appreciated.



Slots 3 and 4 are 1 and 2 repeated so that combines to the 12gb.
Based on what Digital Foundry discovered here, upgrading to 2133MHz DDR3 does give a performance boost in many games, but it might be better to just stick with what you have and wait for Kaby Lake or next year's Cannon/Coffee Lake and get DDR4 at 3200MHz or faster.
 

Edgeward

Member
No it would only show up in benchmarks really. That being said, Samsung memory is supposed to overclock very well. If you have the time you can try setting your dram voltage to 1.6-1.65 and overclocking it.

Based on what Digital Foundry discovered here, upgrading to 2133MHz DDR3 does give a performance boost in many games, but it might be better to just stick with what you have and wait for Kaby Lake or next year's Cannon/Coffee Lake and get DDR4 at 3200MHz or faster.

Thanks for the advice, guys.
 

jonno394

Member
Hi guys, my PC has completely lost power 3 times in the past 12 hours, twice while playing Rocket League and once while playing Tales of Zestiria. No reboot, just completely turns off, and then I have to unplug it from the wall and then plug it back in before it will boot up again.

Upon booting my windows clock shows the time as the last time i'd switched the computer on.

Any ideas? I've had it overclocked and working fine for the last couple of months. Running P95 right now, and run things like valley benchmark, cinebench and 3Dmark in the interim, and no power loss during any of them.
 
Hi guys, my PC has completely lost power 3 times in the past 12 hours, twice while playing Rocket League and once while playing Tales of Zestiria. No reboot, just completely turns off, and then I have to unplug it from the wall and then plug it back in before it will boot up again.

Upon booting my windows clock shows the time as the last time i'd switched the computer on.

Any ideas? I've had it overclocked and working fine for the last couple of months. Running P95 right now, and run things like valley benchmark, cinebench and 3Dmark in the interim, and no power loss during any of them.

Considering my own recent troubles with my SSD, my thoughts go the power supply. Admittedly in my case it was a specific plug that had failed, but it was a reminder that the most fundamental problem a PC can have is lack of power. That you had to unplug it from the wall and plug it back in again seems to further suggest it could be related to the PSU.
 
Hi guys, my PC has completely lost power 3 times in the past 12 hours, twice while playing Rocket League and once while playing Tales of Zestiria. No reboot, just completely turns off, and then I have to unplug it from the wall and then plug it back in before it will boot up again.

Upon booting my windows clock shows the time as the last time i'd switched the computer on.

Any ideas? I've had it overclocked and working fine for the last couple of months.

What are your specs? It could be a psu problem or maybe related to overheating.
 

jonno394

Member
Considering my own recent troubles with my SSD, my thoughts go the power supply. Admittedly in my case it was a specific plug that had failed, but it was a reminder that the most fundamental problem a PC can have is lack of power. That you had to unplug it from the wall and plug it back in again seems to further suggest it could be related to the PSU.

Yeah that was my thoughts too. When you say "specific plug" what do you mean, a connector from the PSU to some component?
 

jonno394

Member
edit - sorry for the double post :facepalm:

What are your specs? It could be a psu problem or maybe related to overheating.

Hi, not an overheating issue, purposefully tried playing Rocket League with Core temp running and it was high 40s at most and was when I lost power.

specs are:

Motherboard - Gigabyte Z87-D3H
Processor - Intel i5 4670K
Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212x
Video Card - Gigabyte Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6G
RAM - Ballistix 2x8GB
HDD - 1TB WD10EZEX
SSD - Samsung 750 EVO 500 GB
OS - Windows 10 64Bit
PSU - Cooler Master G Series 650w
 
edit - sorry for the double post :facepalm:



Hi, not an overheating issue, purposefully tried playing Rocket League with Core temp running and it was high 40s at most and was when I lost power.

specs are:

Motherboard - Gigabyte Z87-D3H
Processor - Intel i5 4670K
Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212x
Video Card - Gigabyte Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6G
RAM - Ballistix 2x8GB
HDD - 1TB WD10EZEX
SSD - Samsung 750 EVO 500 GB
OS - Windows 10 64Bit
PSU - Cooler Master G Series 650w

Yea most likely your psu decided to stop working correctly. If it's not that could be motherboard related. Did you recently change anything?
 

jonno394

Member
Yea most likely your psu decided to stop working correctly. If it's not that could be motherboard related. Did you recently change anything?

Not in the past 24 hours. I installed new RAM about 5 1/2 weeks back and thats it. I'll look to buy a new PSU and cross my fingers.
 
Not in the past 24 hours. I installed new RAM about 5 1/2 weeks back and thats it. I'll look to buy a new PSU and cross my fingers.

When'd you buy it? Amazon says they have a 5 year warranty. You could RMA it then sell it when you get it back to recoup some of the cost of your new psu.
 

kromeo

Member
So, got a new receiver that supports HDR since I mostly game on my 4k TV (Samsung KS8000).

What color options should I choose. I don't know anything about this.

For 4k, I can either have color depth of 8 and and output format 444

or

color depth 10 or 12, but then output format only goes up to 422. Which is more important to picture quality, the depth or output format? Also, I thought these TVs had a 10bit panel, but it's letting me choose 12 in the nvidia control panel. Should I stick with 10?

Sorry, I am a newb about this shit. To be clear, I know PC's currently don't have any HDR content, but I couldn't adjust the color depth above 8 with my old receiver either.

I believe for Samsung TVs you need to go into the options somewhere and activate UHD color for whatever HDMI port you're using, then it will let you select 10 bit 444 or RGB

I've got mine set to RGB but I don't really know which is better
 

jfoul

Member
Are m2 drives faster then ssd 2.5? The Intel 256gb m2 looks decent, is it better than the evo850?

Yes, and they're getting even faster. The Samsung 960 PRO/EVO were announced, and will go on sale next month. Intel also released the Intel SSD 600p Series, that can be purchased now. I'm currently looking at upgrading my storage for my PC. I'll probably go with the Samsung 960 PRO M.2 for my boot, a Crucial MX300 750GB for frequently played games, and a 4TB-6TB HDD for game storage.

960 PRO
  • 512GB, 1TB, 2TB capacities
  • Sequential: 3.5 GB/s reads / 2.1 GB/s writes
  • 4K random (IOPS): 440,000 read / 360,000 write
  • Dynamic Thermal Guard (new version of their overtemperature protection - details below)
  • 5 year warranty, endurace peaks at 1.2PBW for the 2TB model
  • 512GB model = $329.99 ($0.64/GB)

960 EVO
  • 250GB, 500GB, 1TB capacities
  • Sequential: 3.2 GB/s reads / 1.9 GB/s writes (write speed is for TurboWrite SLC cache)
  • 4K random (IOPS): 380,000 read / 360,000 write
  • Dynamic Thermal Guard
  • 3 year warranty, endurance up to 400TBW for the 1TB model
  • 250GB = $129.99 ($0.52/GB)

Intel 600p
specs.png
 
Insane build. Just a question - considering that budget was unlimited, why didn't you go for the Broadwell - E?

I'm reusing the components from the old build, the motherboard, the CPU, the HDD, the case, and the majority of the liquid cooling system.. For the things I do on this, I dont need the 6950X, the performance jump is marginal.

jZ4qxPYl.jpg


What she was before, what she is now. :)

Budget arent really unlimited. :p I had to sell off the three Titan X Maxwells to fund for the Pascal model. I'm really getting what I was looking for performance-wise from a three-way SLI, compared to what I'm getting two-way on Pascal now.
 
Yes, and they're getting even faster. The Samsung 960 PRO/EVO were announced, and will go on sale next month. Intel also released the Intel SSD 600p Series, that can be purchased now. I'm currently looking at upgrading my storage for my PC. I'll probably go with the Samsung 960 PRO M.2 for my boot, a Crucial MX300 750GB for frequently played games, and a 4TB-6TB HDD for game storage.

960 PRO
  • 512GB, 1TB, 2TB capacities
  • Sequential: 3.5 GB/s reads / 2.1 GB/s writes
  • 4K random (IOPS): 440,000 read / 360,000 write
  • Dynamic Thermal Guard (new version of their overtemperature protection - details below)
  • 5 year warranty, endurace peaks at 1.2PBW for the 2TB model
  • 512GB model = $329.99 ($0.64/GB)

960 EVO
  • 250GB, 500GB, 1TB capacities
  • Sequential: 3.2 GB/s reads / 1.9 GB/s writes (write speed is for TurboWrite SLC cache)
  • 4K random (IOPS): 380,000 read / 360,000 write
  • Dynamic Thermal Guard
  • 3 year warranty, endurance up to 400TBW for the 1TB model
  • 250GB = $129.99 ($0.52/GB)

Intel 600p
specs.png

looking at that chart, the intel doesn't look as good? i'm not familiar with SSDs.
 

Arkanius

Member
Guys, my system as off now:

  • Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
  • i5 3570k
  • CM690 Advanced II case
  • 980 Ti
  • 8GB DDR3 1600 Mhz
  • 120 GB SSD
  • 500 GB SSD
  • 1TB of 2x500GB RAID 0 HDDs
  • Corsair AX750W

Now, I'm planning on facelifting my system with a i7 6700k since I'm getting CPU capped in a few games, and not only that, I want to raise my minimums. My RAM is also insufficient nowadays with everything open and I don't want to invest in DDR3 sticks anymore. My Mobo also can't go further in DDR3 speed than 1600 Mhz

As such, I'm planning on buying the following upgrades:

  • i7 6700K
  • MSI Z170A Krait Gaming 3X
  • G.Skill Kit 32GB DDR4 3200MHz (4x 8GB)
  • EKWB GPU block
  • EKWB Predator 280
  • Corsair Carbide 600Q
  • 4TB HDD

With the old Mobo + RAM + CPU plus the RAID0 disks and the case, I'm planning on building a secondary PC to give either to my father that needs a new desktop or to my girlfriend that needs a desktop as well since her laptop has 10+ years and she needs something to work. I also have a 500W PSU that I will install on that secondary machine and might convince either her or my father on buying an SSD to go with that machine.

Do you guys think that the upgrades are balanced? In terms of Mobo + RAM I'm not sure if I could go cheaper while keeping the perf/quality. I want to OC my 6700K to at least 4.5 GHz and I don't like ultra bling motherboards. Just the bare minimums to achieve what I want. The case will have no window as well so I could care less for the gaudy color schemes.
 
I believe for Samsung TVs you need to go into the options somewhere and activate UHD color for whatever HDMI port you're using, then it will let you select 10 bit 444 or RGB

I've got mine set to RGB but I don't really know which is better

Yeah, I got UHD color turned on. It will still only let be choose 422 and 10bit, or 444 and 8bit. Same if I plug the PC directly to the TV instead of the receiver. Turning on full range RGB looks noticeably worse. Crushes the shit out of the blacks.


EDIT: Doing some digging online, it seems the culprit might be the HDMI cable. I've got a long ass cable going from the office to the receiver in the living room. People online are saying most companies are bullshitting the specs on their cables. So, the 10ft versions will be perfectly fine, but if you go above 20ft it's hard to find a reliable 2.0b cable. Not sure if I even have a shorter good 2.0b cable. Will have to wait 'til after work to experiment with.

EDIT 2: Yeah, reading the AV forums they haven't found an HDMI cable over 25' that they can reliably recommend will work with 60hz 4k 4:4:4. Essentially all you can do is buy some and return the ones that don't work. Seeing as I need 50', I'm guessing I'm not going to have much luck.
 
So uh, I have a bit of a peculiar issue with audio. Its a minor thing I admit, but its been bugging me a while and after going through the process of elimination today, its frankly gotten even weirder.

See, my PC seems to be under the assumption that 'speakers' (when Realtek was installed, uninstalled it to try and figure this out)/'Headphones' (with Windows update drivers installed in Realtek's place) are always plugged in, and so consequently doesn't change the default device when I plug my headphones in or take them out. This happens also with one other laptop I use, but not with a second, and all three machines are running Windows 10. In the desktop/game rig I've got an Asus 970 Pro Gaming Aura for the motherboard, so I don't know if that affects things, or if it'd be something else. Any and all help is much appreciated.
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
Not sure where to ask this so I figured I'd dump it in here. I recently bought a Gsync monitor (Asus pg278q) from a friend and in the last few days I've been experimenting by trying out either Gsync or ULMB on different games. I've noticed that when I switch the refresh rate on the panel sometimes it goes from a normal light output to super bright. its comparable to changing the backlight setting on an LCD tv from low to high. Anyone have any idea what that is?
 

Lime

Member
I bought a new mouse some months ago (a logitech G402), but my fingers have started to hurt especially my mousescrolling one after I got it. I need a new mouse that doesn't require me to bend my fingers so much in order to avoid inflammation of my index finger.

My old Logitech MX510 was better in this regard (and Microsoft intellimouse explorer 3.0 back in the day). Does anyone have a recommendation for a nice and comfortable mouse?
 
Guys, my system as off now:

  • Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
  • i5 3570k
  • CM690 Advanced II case
  • 980 Ti
  • 8GB DDR3 1600 Mhz
  • 120 GB SSD
  • 500 GB SSD
  • 1TB of 2x500GB RAID 0 HDDs
  • Corsair AX750W

Now, I'm planning on facelifting my system with a i7 6700k since I'm getting CPU capped in a few games, and not only that, I want to raise my minimums. My RAM is also insufficient nowadays with everything open and I don't want to invest in DDR3 sticks anymore. My Mobo also can't go further in DDR3 speed than 1600 Mhz

As such, I'm planning on buying the following upgrades:

  • i7 6700K
  • MSI Z170A Krait Gaming 3X
  • G.Skill Kit 32GB DDR4 3200MHz (4x 8GB)
  • EKWB GPU block
  • EKWB Predator 280
  • Corsair Carbide 600Q
  • 4TB HDD

With the old Mobo + RAM + CPU plus the RAID0 disks and the case, I'm planning on building a secondary PC to give either to my father that needs a new desktop or to my girlfriend that needs a desktop as well since her laptop has 10+ years and she needs something to work. I also have a 500W PSU that I will install on that secondary machine and might convince either her or my father on buying an SSD to go with that machine.

Do you guys think that the upgrades are balanced? In terms of Mobo + RAM I'm not sure if I could go cheaper while keeping the perf/quality. I want to OC my 6700K to at least 4.5 GHz and I don't like ultra bling motherboards. Just the bare minimums to achieve what I want. The case will have no window as well so I could care less for the gaudy color schemes.

Looks great to me, though most people will tell you go 16gb unless you need the extra ram for work, and 3200 MHz ram is overkill. But if you feel like you want that ram and money isn't a huge factor, then it will work very well with Skylake.
 
Hi guys, this is my current build:

I5 3570k
770 4gb
8gb ram (ddr3)

I'm looking at buying a 1070 now and then upgrading when the new Intel chips drop next year. I'd rather upgrade my GPU and then the mobo etc since both sets of upgrades will run about the same cost.
 

Vipu

Banned
Does doom really require more than 8gb of ram? It crashes to desktop saying my memory is low. Guess I need to buy new ram. What brands are you guys using. Is crucial still good?
I have 6gb and it doesn't crash or say anything about memory running low.
 

Vipu

Banned
Would an upgrade in ram give me any reasonable benefit in game performance? I have a 2500k with a AMD 7950 HD and while I know it won't give me high settings for today's games, I feel it should run better framerate wise on lower settings but it feels like it's underperforming.

And if so, if there is a recommendation on what ram I should get would also be appreciated.



Slots 3 and 4 are 1 and 2 repeated so that combines to the 12gb.

You should just get new gpu, thats what matters in games.
 

DagsJT

Member
I'm debating selling my iPad as I don't use it as much as I should, and so I'm thinking of using the iPad money to buy a new graphics card.

I currently have an i5-3570k, 8GB RAM, GTX 970. A couple of things:

- Is 8GB RAM suitable these days? Is it a bottleneck?
- I play at 1080p as my PC is connected to the same monitor as my PS4, which also does FreeSync. Is it worth getting a 1070 or 1080 for 1080p? Better to wait for AMD's Vega cards to use FreeSync? Would I even want FreeSync if I had a powerful card anyway?
- I'm sure my CPU is fine, 2500k's are still decent.... right?
 

Vipu

Banned
I'm debating selling my iPad as I don't use it as much as I should, and so I'm thinking of using the iPad money to buy a new graphics card.

I currently have an i5-3570k, 8GB RAM, GTX 970. A couple of things:

- Is 8GB RAM suitable these days? Is it a bottleneck?
- I play at 1080p as my PC is connected to the same monitor as my PS4, which also does FreeSync. Is it worth getting a 1070 or 1080 for 1080p? Better to wait for AMD's Vega cards to use FreeSync? Would I even want FreeSync if I had a powerful card anyway?
- I'm sure my CPU is fine, 2500k's are still decent.... right?

I guess its still better to buy new gpu with that money than cpu/mobo/etc.
 
Hi guys, this is my current build:

I5 3570k
770 4gb
8gb ram (ddr3)

I'm looking at buying a 1070 now and then upgrading when the new Intel chips drop next year. I'd rather upgrade my GPU and then the mobo etc since both sets of upgrades will run about the same cost.

Seems like a good plan to me, just overclock your cpu (4.4 shouldn't be a problem given your heatsink is decent) and you'll be good for awhile still.
 

kuYuri

Member
I'm debating selling my iPad as I don't use it as much as I should, and so I'm thinking of using the iPad money to buy a new graphics card.

I currently have an i5-3570k, 8GB RAM, GTX 970. A couple of things:

- Is 8GB RAM suitable these days? Is it a bottleneck?
- I play at 1080p as my PC is connected to the same monitor as my PS4, which also does FreeSync. Is it worth getting a 1070 or 1080 for 1080p? Better to wait for AMD's Vega cards to use FreeSync? Would I even want FreeSync if I had a powerful card anyway?
- I'm sure my CPU is fine, 2500k's are still decent.... right?

- 8GB is still fine, it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to 16GB since more games are starting to recommend 16GB RAM.
- You can get away with a 1060 or RX 480 at 1080p, the 1070 will definitely give you more power for 1440p too.
-Yes, they are still decent although getting a bit long in the tooth.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom