oh man those prices :S
What's your budget?
The HyperX Cloud Core/Cloud 2 is a GAF favorite
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
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What's your budget?
The HyperX Cloud Core/Cloud 2 is a GAF favorite
davepoobond
you can't put a price on sparks
Logitech has been good to me.
the fake leather covering peeled off but otherwise its been good and had it for 3 years or so
BreezyLimbo
Banned
Around the $100 range.
I've used G35s in the past and they last me a year/year and a half through normal wear and tear. RIght now I'm trying to cement-glue the cup back onto the headset.
I looked up the cloud core but it seems that the build isn't that great and it might break? >_>; Looking at pictures it looks very....thin?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
They did at least change the firmware so the drives don't park as quickly (AFAIK, I've seen it reported), so they are still better than Greens for anything except maybe backups. Simplifies their manufacturing.
I guess WD figures raw HDD performance is not that impactful anymore for standard tier HDDs, since SSDs have reached the mainstream. 5400 RPM is cooler, quieter, and uses a bit less power, which could be selling points to the SSD user looking for a secondary drive.
Also ordered the rest of my minor components. Mainly some fans I can go ahead and fit into the case. Just leaves the main components - CPU, motherboard, RAM, cooler, which I intend to order together. Tempted to do it now - Monoprice still has 6600Ks for $212, and I could use a Jet code and save around $15 on the RAM+cooler combined. No noteworthy deals on a motherboard though. Still holding out for holiday discounts.
How about a separate mic and and headphone combo?
Recently got the Philips SP9500 ($60) and a v-moda boom pro ($30 - $35) mic for my girlfriend and she loves them, but neither of us are truly audiophiles and I only have an AKG 240 to reference them
BreezyLimbo
Banned
I've thought about that but not enough USB ports on my computer :X
I ordered a Cloud II to try it out. Gonna try to RMA my G35 since it's still in warranty(can't find serial number tho)
You don't need a USB, just an audio and mic 3.5mm input jack
DICKS AHOY
Banned
About to start building my PC in a couple days as I have most of the parts now, but there was one factor I was seeing conflicting answers for which I was curious about; how do I get my current OS on my new motherboard? I was going to use my current Samsung 250g EVO SSD as a backup drive and my new 1TB Pro one as the 'main' drive for the new setup, however I'm under the impression simple moving the image from the 250 to the 1TB won't mean my PC is suddenly usable on this new motherboard. I've moved everything including the OS before from an even older HDD to the 250 SSD years ago, but the difference there was I didn't touch the motherboard.
Especially since I'm running Windows 10 and got this upgrade through Microsoft's free offer (in other words, there's no installation CD for it I can even use... Plus I haven't actually gotten a new CD/Blu Ray player yet :X), how do I go about installing a workable OS on this new set up while still being able to keep everything that's on my current SSD? I'm assuming it's highly unlikely just plugging in the SSD to this new motherboard will suddenly make everything work like it just suddenly became a lot faster.
EDIT: For that matter, which software would you recommend using nowadays for copying over one SSD's contents including OS to a new one? I'm just planning to install the SSD like it's this new PC's default drive, install the 1TB when that's up and running, copy the image over with whatever software, make the 1TB the default and format the 250. That the usual procedure people go with?
Especially since I'm running Windows 10 and got this upgrade through Microsoft's free offer (in other words, there's no installation CD for it I can even use... Plus I haven't actually gotten a new CD/Blu Ray player yet :X), how do I go about installing a workable OS on this new set up while still being able to keep everything that's on my current SSD? I'm assuming it's highly unlikely just plugging in the SSD to this new motherboard will suddenly make everything work like it just suddenly became a lot faster.
EDIT: For that matter, which software would you recommend using nowadays for copying over one SSD's contents including OS to a new one? I'm just planning to install the SSD like it's this new PC's default drive, install the 1TB when that's up and running, copy the image over with whatever software, make the 1TB the default and format the 250. That the usual procedure people go with?
nightmare-slain
Member
what kind of installation was your previous version (7/8/8.1)? was it retail or OEM? i think you should be fine if you have retail. just install the OS onto your main drive and sign in with your microsoft account to activate the license. if it was an OEM version then you might need to buy a new license.
i bought an OEM license of 8.1, upgraded for free to 10, and had no issue reinstalling the OS when I did a clean install on my new SSD but when I built my new PC it wouldn't let me use it because there was a new motherboard so i had to buy a new license.
DICKS AHOY
Banned
My installation was originally 7, and roughly a year ago got upgraded for free to 10. Is that OS going to be too old for me to still get Windows 10 for free/register that I was given 10 for free in the first place?
Dries
Member
Hey guys, my CPU is behaving very strange and I have no idea what happened. The problem is that, while running games, my CPU usage is totally fucked up. I have a i7 6700K and I measure my CPU usage with MSI Afterburner. I've always used MSI Afterburner to check my CPU usages in games (it measures 8 CPU's because of HyperThreading). So, when all was still working normally, my CPU usages were something like the following example:
CPU1: 45%
CPU2: 25%
CPU3: 76%
CPU4: 54%
CPU5: 69%
CPU6: 34%
CPU7: 89%
CPU8: 70%
You see? The workload seems very nicely divided. For now I'm just making these numbers up, but it's just to give you an idea. Now, during some games, I've noticed that my values are more something like this:
CPU1: 78%
CPU2: 5%
CPU3: 4%
CPU4: 89%
CPU5: 0%
CPU6: 3%
CPU7: 95%
CPU8: 0%
So, where my CPU once divided it's tasks very evenly and efficiently, now it seems as if someone accidentally stepped on it and broke it. The way my CPU behaves now results in various MAJOR framestutters (my screen sometime freezes for 1-2 complete seconds). This happens especially with No Mans Sky and 3D Mark FireStrike. It's very painful to watch as it seems to just have happened out of nowhere. The only "change" that happened in my system is the new anniversary update of Windows... But I rolled back to a previous Windows version and that didn't fix a thing.
Do I maybe need to update mijn Intel chipset drivers? Maybe some people will advise me to check my BIOS settings, but I've never changed anything! Something has changed in my system, but I can't figure out what. Please, does anyone know what going on?
CPU1: 45%
CPU2: 25%
CPU3: 76%
CPU4: 54%
CPU5: 69%
CPU6: 34%
CPU7: 89%
CPU8: 70%
You see? The workload seems very nicely divided. For now I'm just making these numbers up, but it's just to give you an idea. Now, during some games, I've noticed that my values are more something like this:
CPU1: 78%
CPU2: 5%
CPU3: 4%
CPU4: 89%
CPU5: 0%
CPU6: 3%
CPU7: 95%
CPU8: 0%
So, where my CPU once divided it's tasks very evenly and efficiently, now it seems as if someone accidentally stepped on it and broke it. The way my CPU behaves now results in various MAJOR framestutters (my screen sometime freezes for 1-2 complete seconds). This happens especially with No Mans Sky and 3D Mark FireStrike. It's very painful to watch as it seems to just have happened out of nowhere. The only "change" that happened in my system is the new anniversary update of Windows... But I rolled back to a previous Windows version and that didn't fix a thing.
Do I maybe need to update mijn Intel chipset drivers? Maybe some people will advise me to check my BIOS settings, but I've never changed anything! Something has changed in my system, but I can't figure out what. Please, does anyone know what going on?
nightmare-slain
Member
if you upgraded for free then it'll have saved the windows 10 license to your microsoft account. so all you need to do is reinstall it and log into your account to activate it. however, if your windows 7 was an OEM license then you will probably need to buy a new windows 10 license as your current one will be tied to your motherboard. that happened with my 8.1 oem license. if your windows 7 was a retail license then you should be able to keep using your current windows 10 license i think.
Id love some input on displays.
I posted several pages back but am just really curious about the overwhelming amount of suggestions for 1080p displays. Is that pretty much what everyone uses? Those of you who have 1080 displays do you also use your PC for work stuff? (Adobe Suite Stuff).
I posted several pages back but am just really curious about the overwhelming amount of suggestions for 1080p displays. Is that pretty much what everyone uses? Those of you who have 1080 displays do you also use your PC for work stuff? (Adobe Suite Stuff).
nightmare-slain
Member
i have a 1080p 60hz monitor. it's a BenQ RL2455HM and i am quite happy with it. a lot of people complain it looks washed out but if you calibrate it properly it will look good. at least i think it does. cost me £130. it's about $200 in the US i think.
i only use my PC for games and browsing the internet. i have photoshop but i don't use it for work just for messing about with. i'm thinking of upgrading to a 1440p monitor. looking at the Dell u2515h. i actually did own it but it arrived damaged. it was rough going back to my 1080p monitor and i miss how sharp everything looked. i just feel my PC isn't being used to it's full potential at 1080p. a lot of people are using 1440p monitors now. 1080p is definitely still popular though.
The CPU usage you describe can only be seen if the programs you're using aren't optimized for Hyperthreading or if Windows' CPU scheduler is broken. Since I assume the Games/Benchmarks didn't exhibit the issue before updating to Anniversary version, the only sure way of seeing what's the issue is to reinstall Windows from scratch, since rolling back can be troublesome.
hooijdonk17
Member
DO NOT buy a Toshiba Hard Drive. I've had two 3TBs fail on me before 2 years were up, that's 100% anectodal failure rate! You have been WARNED.
Cool thanks for the input. I definitely think I'm going to go with better resolution.
So then with that in mind, it comes down to 2 monitors or a single curved.
I was currently eyeing this guy
Is gaming problematic at all with these types of displays?
I dont imagine games having native support for this wide aspect ratio.
I have the Asus rog ultrawide, gaming isn't an issue for the most part, out of the games I play overwatch is the only one that doesn't support it properly.
World of warcraft, forza horizon 3, even games like the recently free Rayman from ubisoft support it and I have to say it's glorious when it works.
Biggest hurdle is driving games at a higher framerate in ultrawide as its alot more pixels.
Awesome.
Im either going to be running a 970 or 1070 so im assuming I wouldn't run into any performance issues?
(Man displays are freakin priiicey sheesh)
lostsupper
Banned
No, not "maybe." You not experiencing issues does not mean they don't exist.
For example, every single person playing Dragon's Dogma with an xinput controller had double button inputs after the Anniversary update. This wasn't user error, it was a driver conflict caused by xinput's updated api.
If you don't conclusively know the answer to a question, don't just fart out an answer.
Elven_Star
Member
Nobody bothered to answer me, but if there's anybody else out there with the same problem, they can use this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-...efresh-rate-cru-overclock-monitor-gaming.html
Elven_Star
Member
Many games do support 21:9 natively, especially newer games. There are ways to force others to use it as well. If all fails, you can play on 16:9 with black bars on the sides. Trust me, once you use an ultrawide monitor, you will never go back.
I'd go with the NZXT one.
So due to being at Uni bringing over my massive Desktop PC on a 2 hour car journey was simply not happening. Since I don't want to leave it behind for too long and I've been meaning to upgrade anyway I've decided to downsize into a Mini ITX case. I've got a total budget of about £600 but I'd preferably like to keep it under that if I can. These are the parts I've decided to buy, with the parts I'm carrying over being:
- Seasonic 660w Fully Modular PSU
- Samsung 840 Evo 250gb SSD (OS Drive)
- WD Black 2tb HDD
- MSI GTX 980 Ti
- 2 Corsair 140mm Fans
Any changes I should make? One thing I have to say is that I don't want an AiO Cooler, after having one I simply don't trust them and I'm not that much of an overclocker or heavy CPU user anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxfsK33BWlxHgglWl9LTAYA/videos
Here's a Youtube channel that goes into detail on 21:9 support in a decent amount of games. But overall if you only play modern Western titles (that aren't Overwatch) you really shouldn't have an issue, it's the niche, older or Japanese titles where major issues spring up. Some titles you can put in an unofficial patch or change some files to get it working but some titles just simply don't work.
which do you guys like betteR? im stuck between these two pc cases:
the corsair comes with those 3 LED fans in the front.
The one at the top. Not sure what model it is.
lostsupper
Banned
which do you guys like betteR? im stuck between these two pc cases:
the corsair comes with those 3 LED fans in the front.
I don't even like windows and I say the s340 Elite. It really is good looking.
So due to being at Uni bringing over my massive Desktop PC on a 2 hour car journey was simply not happening. Since I don't want to leave it behind for too long and I've been meaning to upgrade anyway I've decided to downsize into a Mini ITX case. I've got a total budget of about £600 but I'd preferably like to keep it under that if I can. These are the parts I've decided to buy, with the parts I'm carrying over being:
- Seasonic 660w Fully Modular PSU
- Samsung 840 Evo 250gb SSD (OS Drive)
- WD Black 2tb HDD
- MSI GTX 980 Ti
- 2 Corsair 140mm Fans
You can fit a full size tower cooler in the Nano S. The C14s and U14s are better Noctua choices.
Ah, thanks! Changed it to a U12s (U14s wasn't on PCPartPicker, though I'll buy that instead). Won't look as nice in the case I guess but I likely won't have the window facing me anyway.
Are you sure the game didn't change? Ie playing a different game? Since I never get CPU usage all balanced, most games will uses cores however they want.
Very much doubt this is a CPU hardware issue or BIOS.
More likely its the application or something else interrupting the application in the background.
They use HGST (atleast the ACA model). Which one specifically?
I have a 3TB ACA and its doing just fine, almost full too. Had it for about 1.5years.
which do you guys like betteR? im stuck between these two pc cases:
the corsair comes with those 3 LED fans in the front.
Corsair will be a nightmare to clean. All those nooks and crannies will fill up with dust and youll be cleaning it with futility.
Good choices.
Dries
Member
Yeah, a fresh Windows install is still my last resort. I'll probably try it though.
Yeah, NMS did get a patch. But why would my CPU also behave so strange in FireStrike too? I can see that the behaviour is exactly the same. I've never noticed it before, but now it's so obvious I would think I would've seen this behaviour early on (if it was there). But it could also very well be an application running in the backround that didn't exist before (and maybe came with the new Windows anniversary update). But how to know?
Edit: Is it possible to roll back game versions in Steam? Then I could try running the game in pre-fuckup-patch mode.
I use that exact board, 1.0. Not a lot of options for high end z170 matx, and from when I last checked, the Asus Gene is like a good $80 more for some features you (probably) won't even use.
I would say the Killer NICs aren't worth avoiding a mobo over, but Intel would've been preferred. The only problem I had was Windows 10 not being able to install a generic driver for it.
You guys are awesome. Totally sold me on the Ultra Wide. Thanks for the info!
Heres a firestrike run on on my pc
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4hpf6zevo5pz9v/HardwareMonitoring2.hml?dl=0
6700k 4.4ghz
gtx 970 1557/3850mhz
Final update on my new build:
After roughly a week of waiting my new front audio port has arrived. The outcome being...
IT WORKS
After sending me a bullshit part originally Phanteks has pulled through!
As a celebration I will share my specs and pics. Gather round all and share in my relief
Specs:
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU 4 cores @ 4.00GHz
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080
2x 8GB DDR4 Rijaws @ 3200 MHz
SanDisk Ultra II SSD 960 GB Sata III 2.5 inch Internal SSD up to 550 MB/s
And pics
Have been playing DOOM and The Witness at Ultra with buttery smooth framerates, while waiting for this damn audio port.
After roughly a week of waiting my new front audio port has arrived. The outcome being...
IT WORKS
After sending me a bullshit part originally Phanteks has pulled through!
As a celebration I will share my specs and pics. Gather round all and share in my relief
Specs:
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU 4 cores @ 4.00GHz
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080
2x 8GB DDR4 Rijaws @ 3200 MHz
SanDisk Ultra II SSD 960 GB Sata III 2.5 inch Internal SSD up to 550 MB/s
And pics
Have been playing DOOM and The Witness at Ultra with buttery smooth framerates, while waiting for this damn audio port.
Final update on my new build:
After roughly a week of waiting my new front audio port has arrived. The outcome being...
IT WORKS
After sending me a bullshit part originally Phanteks has pulled through!
As a celebration I will share my specs and pics. Gather round all and share in my relief
Specs:
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU 4 cores @ 4.00GHz
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080
2x 8GB DDR4 Rijaws @ 3200 MHz
SanDisk Ultra II SSD 960 GB Sata III 2.5 inch Internal SSD up to 550 MB/s
And pics
Have been playing DOOM and The Witness at Ultra with buttery smooth framerates, while waiting for this damn audio port.
Glad its fixed, you should consider rotating the CPU heatsink clockwise 90* such that the CPU fan blows over the heatsink and towards the rear exhaust, as right now your pulling hot air from the GPU into the CPU Cooler rather then cool air from the front intake.
lostsupper
Banned
What LilJoka said.
I tried that initially, the heatsink won't fit comfortably in that orientation because the 16x speed PCI-e port is closest to the CPU.
I at least have the heatsink fan on the opposite end, away from the GPU
lostsupper
Banned
What does "won't fit comfortably mean?" Does the heatsink actually touch the gpu?
From what I remember, I put the heatsink in first and it was covering the PCI-e port
lostsupper
Banned
What motherboard and what cooler?
Final update on my new build:
After roughly a week of waiting my new front audio port has arrived. The outcome being...
IT WORKS
After sending me a bullshit part originally Phanteks has pulled through!
As a celebration I will share my specs and pics. Gather round all and share in my relief
Specs:
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU 4 cores @ 4.00GHz
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080
2x 8GB DDR4 Rijaws @ 3200 MHz
SanDisk Ultra II SSD 960 GB Sata III 2.5 inch Internal SSD up to 550 MB/s
Have been playing DOOM and The Witness at Ultra with buttery smooth framerates, while waiting for this damn audio port.
Yeah fix that cooler. Fan should be on the right side of the computer, blowing through the heatsink and out the back.
What resolution and you playing at on Ultra?
I'm confused, you mean CPU into the GPU? Because the fans blow across the sink, so he's pulling from the top down in the GPU.
lostsupper
Banned
Confirmed on Noctua's compatibility page. The U12s and the C14s both work though. If you're still in your return window, it's probably worth it to get one of those.
Damn... It was LilJoka that recommended that Heatsink and Mobo combo. I checked pc part picker and had no compatibility issues.
This build is turning out to be a pain in the ass.
How bad will it be to continue with this heatsink orientation? My current idle and stress temperatures look fine.
Is it conflicting with your RAM? Because that's where the fan should be over.
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