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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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The Chef

Member
Planning on ordering my machine today (so pumped) but I've changed my mind a bit on the display.
I definitely want higher resolution than 1080p and definitely need either 2 screens or 1 widescreen.

Any thoughts on this one?
HP Pavilion 32-inch QHD Wide-Viewing Angle Display
91GvY1cUFJL._SL1500_.jpg
 

Zaph

Member
Planning on ordering my machine today (so pumped) but I've changed my mind a bit on the display.
I definitely want higher resolution than 1080p and definitely need either 2 screens or 1 widescreen.

Any thoughts on this one?
HP Pavilion 32-inch QHD Wide-Viewing Angle Display

This varies person-to-person, but I think 1440p is far too low of a pixel density for a 32-inch screen (assuming you're using it at a typical monitor viewing distance). I wouldn't go above 27" at that res.
 

The Chef

Member
This varies person-to-person, but I think 1440p is far too low of a pixel density for a 32-inch screen (assuming you're using it at a typical monitor viewing distance). I wouldn't go above 27" at that res.

No thats super helpful info, thanks.
So Dell UltraSharp U3415W PXF79 34-Inch has a resolution of 3440 x 1440 and looks amazing. But it is a bit pricey. I think I need to get my expectations in check though of finding a god tier widescreen display for around $3-400.
 
This varies person-to-person, but I think 1440p is far too low of a pixel density for a 32-inch screen (assuming you're using it at a typical monitor viewing distance). I wouldn't go above 27" at that res.

As you say it varies person-to-person, but I recently swapped my 24" 1080p monitor for a 32" 1440p and I'm in heaven.
 

Lonely1

Unconfirmed Member
So, I got a nice deal for a HyperX Predator M.2 PCIe SSD. I got windows installed on it and seems to runs nicely. It's connected through a dedicated M.2 slot on my EVGA X99 motherboard that takes an PCiE 4x slot when active. The problem I have is that both, Speccy and CrystalDiskInfo report its interface as SATA III.

My first hypothesis was that my Mobo didn't support PCiE through its M.2 slot, however CrystalDiskMark performance is ahead of the maximum 6.0 Gbit/s expected of SATA III:

psMWURs.png


But behind of what I should be getting.

What could be the case? It it normal for my drive to be reported as SATAIII when It should be a PCIE x4 interface?

Thanks for your input!
 

Vuze

Member
for anyone here who got an EVGA NVIDIA 10 Series card you can request to get a free PowerLink (adapter to help with cable management)

you have to have the card registered on your EVGA account and upload a picture of the invoice for your card...says they start shipping out November 1st so will be a few weeks but it's free

http://www.evga.com/articles/01051/evga-powerlink/
I wish these were less bulky and less branded but for just the shipping... I'll take it :)
Very cool they are offering this to existing customers as well.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Those are two sticks, I didn't noticed it cropped it lol.

What's the problem with the PSU? That part I know nothing about.

Any ATX would do? I don't understand how the USB ports work in regards with the motherboard, do they need to have the same number?

A quality power supply is very important. A bad power supply can cause all kinds of problems, from system instability to dying and taking other components with it, to being outright fire hazards. There's a surprising number of poor PSUs out there, and that includes the bulk of the ones shipped with cases.
 
I'm considering getting a 120Hz or 144Hz monitor. If I am playing a game on my PC that is fixed to 60FPS, like a fighting game, can the refresh rate of the monitor still run at 120Hz?

Also, if such were possible, what would it be like playing a game at 60fps on a screen running at 144Hz? I'm guessing that if there would be any issues, it would be possible to set it to 120Hz instead?

If the game is locked at 60fps, you would end up with frame judder at 144 Hz. It's probably not noticeable at that higher refresh rate, but if you're a high level fighting game player it might bother you. However, you can generally just set the monitor to 60Hz or 120Hz. Just confirm that with the exact model you want to buy. Alternatively, adaptive sync should take care of it as well.
 

Grokbu

Member
If the game is locked at 60fps, you would end up with frame judder at 144 Hz. It's probably not noticeable at that higher refresh rate, but if you're a high level fighting game player it might bother you. However, you can generally just set the monitor to 60Hz or 120Hz. Just confirm that with the exact model you want to buy. Alternatively, adaptive sync should take care of it as well.

Alright, cool. Thanks! :)
 

Ludovico

Member
Does anyone know whether this OEM Windows 10 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSI7Y3U/?tag=neogaf0e-20) item comes with an actual cd key?

I won't be putting a disc drive in my PC - I'm used to installing windows using a flash drive. Will I have everything I need to make a bootable installation if I order that disc?

Also, this is where I currently stand on my build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($237.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($101.20 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($129.92 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($409.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.95 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($90.72 @ Amazon)
Total: $1399.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-03 14:24 EDT-0400

If I pick up a 1440 monitor before the end of the year, this will be plenty good?
 

hohoXD123

Member
Can anyone recommend any 5050 LEDs I can get in the UK? Was looking for some cheap ones off ebay but they don't come in strips and aren't magnetic.
 

J_Viper

Member
Running software in the background has a performance hit. My grandad runs a ton of security and diagnostic software, so much that it all actually reduces the overall speed and responsiveness of his PC. And he refuses to listen to me when I tell him to uninstall all of it.

Get a free antivirus program and Malwarebytes Anti-exploit. No need for more than that actively running. I use Avast and all their junk and info collection disabled. Some of the other free options are good too. I'm not really up to date on them, but they will do just as well as Norton, for free, and you can cut out most of the bloat.

Norton is comically unnecessary. The Playstation Gold headset uses the same usb dongle on pc as it does on PS4.

Can't you add an internal HDD? Playing games off a USB drive seems like a recipe for bottlenecks.

Don't use Norton. Windows Defender apparently does the job quite well now, but if you really want something else that won't kill your performance you should use Avira or Avast. Plus they're free.
Thanks for the info guys, I'll skip Norton.

My fault for not being more clear on the Headset question. What I meant to ask was which method would give better sound quality, through wired or Bluetooth?
 

AndyD

aka andydumi
4k60 over displayport, yes.
GT 710 may even work for it.

I have my curretn 9750 that would also work, but the power supply in that case does not have sufficient connectors. Maybe I'll get a new supply and give her my card and I'll just make do for a few months and update my whole rig next year. Hmm...
 

LQX

Member
Planning on ordering my machine today (so pumped) but I've changed my mind a bit on the display.
I definitely want higher resolution than 1080p and definitely need either 2 screens or 1 widescreen.

Any thoughts on this one?
HP Pavilion 32-inch QHD Wide-Viewing Angle Display

Upgraded from a 27" to the Omen version of that monitor(they are essentially the same). It is a great monitor. No glow issues, no issues with with desktop being on such a huge monitor. I love everything about it.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
the itx z170 mobo selection is really bad :( Asus has two offerings, the $170 z170i Pro Gamer which seems decent but lacks a lot of high-quality pieces, but has an m.2 slot and good features. The Maximus board has all the nice high-quality pieces and great OC'ing reviews, but lacks an m.2 port in exchange for a horribly placed u.2 port (seriously what??) and horribly placed Sata ports.

Gigabytes G1 looks decent but lacks the major OC'ing strengths I'm looking for and I've never trusted Gigabyte for quality.

MSI's offering is plain jane and has huge quality control issues.

ASrocks board is the most unstable of the bunch.

So its either pay lots of money $220 for a board thats high quality but lacks some standard features (m.2, Sata Express, bad sata placements), pay mid-range price for a board built cheaper but with more features (asus pro gamer) or settle for a lesser brand with QC issues).

I'll probably settle for the Pro Gamer and hope it doesnt limit my OC'ing as I just cant justify the $220 price for the Maximus given its lack of key features (I cant even find a u.2 card to buy!)
 
Guys, emergency!

Built a PC not too long ago with this thread's help(Windows 10 Professional). Been working great for about 6 months.

Did a massive update just now and now I'm getting this:

38O2MyU

Any ideas here? I have an SSD with Windows on it that I boot from first and an HDD for everything else.

No idea what to do!
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Guys, emergency!

Built a PC not too long ago with this thread's help(Windows 10 Professional). Been working great for about 6 months.

Did a massive update just now and now I'm getting this:

38O2MyU

Any ideas here? I have an SSD with Windows on it that I boot from first and an HDD for everything else.

No idea what to do!

1. Double check bios setting make sure the boot order is still at right

2. Check to make sure Sata cable and power are still hooked up properly

3. If all the above, see if DVD drive boots properly with a windows disc (checking to make sure no chipset/mobo issues)

4. Change port ssd is plugged into incase of a bad port

5. Take ssd out and see if it will work on another computer.

6. You got a dead ssd. Hope you kept monthly drive images
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
the itx z170 mobo selection is really bad :( Asus has two offerings, the $170 z170i Pro Gamer which seems decent but lacks a lot of high-quality pieces, but has an m.2 slot and good features. The Maximus board has all the nice high-quality pieces and great OC'ing reviews, but lacks an m.2 port in exchange for a horribly placed u.2 port (seriously what??) and horribly placed Sata ports.

Gigabytes G1 looks decent but lacks the major OC'ing strengths I'm looking for and I've never trusted Gigabyte for quality.

MSI's offering is plain jane and has huge quality control issues.

ASrocks board is the most unstable of the bunch.

So its either pay lots of money $220 for a board thats high quality but lacks some standard features (m.2, Sata Express, bad sata placements), pay mid-range price for a board built cheaper but with more features (asus pro gamer) or settle for a lesser brand with QC issues).

I'll probably settle for the Pro Gamer and hope it doesnt limit my OC'ing as I just cant justify the $220 price for the Maximus given its lack of key features (I cant even find a u.2 card to buy!)

Not unlike the mATX selection then. The Gigabyte Gaming 5 seems like the only fairly well balanced midrange-ish mATX option. Everything else is either lacking or $200+. Asus and Asrock don't even make anything between their lower-end boards and their top end ones. If Asus had something between their crummy Plus board and the Gene I'd have likely gone with it, but there's just nothing there.

Guys, emergency!

Built a PC not too long ago with this thread's help(Windows 10 Professional). Been working great for about 6 months.

Did a massive update just now and now I'm getting this:

38O2MyU.jpg

Any ideas here? I have an SSD with Windows on it that I boot from first and an HDD for everything else.

No idea what to do!

Go into the bios and make sure it's trying to boot from the SSD. If you did anything on the inside of the case make sure all the connections are secure.
 
1. Double check bios setting make sure the boot order is still at right

2. Check to make sure Sata cable and power are still hooked up properly

3. If all the above, see if DVD drive boots properly with a windows disc (checking to make sure no chipset/mobo issues)

4. Change port ssd is plugged into incase of a bad port

5. Take ssd out and see if it will work on another computer.

6. You got a dead ssd. Hope you kept monthly drive images

Thanks so much for replying.

I just checked the boot order, the SSD wasn't showing up. I unplugged it and replugged it and now I can get back to my desktop. But things are running extremely slow. I opened up Task Manager to see if something malicious was running, and the window hangs there for a solid 2 minutes before I can click around in it. Is this indicative of something?
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Thanks so much for replying.

I just checked the boot order, the SSD wasn't showing up. I unplugged it and replugged it and now I can get back to my desktop. But things are running extremely slow. I opened up Task Manager to see if something malicious was running, and the window hangs there for a solid 2 minutes before I can click around in it. Is this indicative of something?

That could be any number of things, from an unstable setup, to a dying hard drive. My money would be on a memory issue as they are most common in my experience. Take one dimm out and reboot. See if things stay the same.

Check the event viewer for any major errors being reported

Also run the built In windows checkdisk. Check the smart report also to see if the drive is reporting faults.

Check temps in the system also to see if the processor is throttling way down due to heat (unlikely if she's been running fine for so long)
 

shanafan

Member
I got a new laptop from work for video editing, and it came with a Nvidia Quadro M3000M. What desktop video card would that be comparable to?
 
That could be any number of things, from an unstable setup, to a dying hard drive. My money would be on a memory issue as they are most common in my experience. Take one dimm out and reboot. See if things stay the same.

Check the event viewer for any major errors being reported

Also run the built In windows checkdisk. Check the smart report also to see if the drive is reporting faults.

Check temps in the system also to see if the processor is throttling way down due to heat (unlikely if she's been running fine for so long)

Sorry, this was my first build, so I'm relatively new. What's a dimm? I have lots of memory and hardly anything on my SSD or HDD so not sure if it could be a memory issues.

I just ran check disk and I kicked back with no errors. Also did a optimization of all drives. Going to check out the smart report now!
 

StewboaT_

Member
Hey guys, my laptop gpu is starting to melt so I'm thinking of upgrading to a semi competent gaming pc. Is $1500 Cdn enough for a pc and a monitor, or is that a pipe dream?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
I got a new laptop from work for video editing, and it came with a Nvidia Quadro M3000M. What desktop video card would that be comparable to?

Looks like it's about on par with a 965M. Slightly worse than a 950 on desktop.

Is it worth upgrading from a GTX 770 to a GTX 970 ? i honestly can't really afford the 1000 series yet.

Is a 1060 not an option? That would be better than a 970.

Sorry, this was my first build, so I'm relatively new. What's a dimm? I have lots of memory and hardly anything on my SSD or HDD so not sure if it could be a memory issues.

I just ran check disk and I kicked back with no errors. Also did a optimization of all drives. Going to check out the smart report now!

DIMM is a memory stick.
 
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