Support NeoGAF

[Megauap]

I need some advice to update my current build.
This is what I have now:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($348.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-PRO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.75 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.60 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Video Card
Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case ($81.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Cooler Master GX 650W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($128.89 @ OutletPC)

I will probably update at the end of January or start of February.
I was considering getting an i7 7700K (and probably oc it to 5Ghz), getting a Noctua NH-D15 to reduce the fan noise that liquid cooling produces now.
Other parts I am thinking of buying are:

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 3000Mhz CL15
SSD: Samsung 950 PRO M.2 SSD 256GB
PSU: Corsair HX750i
GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X

My budget is around 1200€.
What do you think of it? I will mostly use it for gaming (would like to game at 1440p) and web surfing.

 

[opticalmace]

I need some advice to update my current build.
This is what I have now:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($348.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-PRO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.75 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.60 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Video Card
Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case ($81.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Cooler Master GX 650W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($128.89 @ OutletPC)

I will probably update at the end of January or start of February.
I was considering getting an i7 7700K (and probably oc it to 5Ghz), getting a Noctua NH-D15 to reduce the fan noise that liquid cooling produces now.
Other parts I am thinking of buying are:

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 3000Mhz CL15
SSD: Samsung 950 PRO M.2 SSD 256GB
PSU: Corsair HX750i
GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X

My budget is around 1200€.
What do you think of it? I will mostly use it for gaming (would like to game at 1440p) and web surfing.

Don't bother changing your CPU (and therefore motherboard, ram).

Just get a 1070. And if you are annoyed with your cooler, the D15 sure is nice.

Also no point in getting a 950 Pro now... the 960 Pros and Evos should be out shortly. If you really want a fast M.2 drive I would just get a 960 Evo.

What frequency do you have your 4770k at?

 

[Megauap]

Don't bother changing your CPU (and therefore motherboard, ram).

Just get a 1070. And if you are annoyed with your cooler, the D15 sure is nice.

Also no point in getting a 950 Pro now... the 960 Pros and Evos should be out shortly. If you really want a fast M.2 drive I would just get a 960 Evo.

What frequency do you have your 4770k at?

I wasn't going to change my CPU but my father's CPU is starting to die (he has my old 2500K which I overclocked too much and it's now suffering from it). He told me to change everything so I can give him my current computer parts. I would wait for coffe lake but it seems pretty far still.
I will probably wait for the 960 EVO (not gonna build the new PC until the end of january as I have university work to do). I just want to buy a new SSD to give my father the old one too (he doesn't have one currently).
My CPU is at 4.3Ghz because if I increase it more my OS doesn't boot. I could mess with the voltage but I learned my lesson with the 2500K.

 

[Ark]

The 1070 covers your bases nicely for gaming at 1440p. The boost from the 1080, for that resolution specifically, doesn't justify the price difference, IMO.

So just to make sure, a 1070 would run all the testing games today that I mentioned (Cities, TW Warhammer, Witcher 3, BF1) at 1440p 60fps?

Obviously I'm looking for as-close-to-faultless as I can get without any drops, so if a 1070 would do that, I might grab the savings and pick that up instead.

 

[Unkle]

So just to make sure, a 1070 would run all the testing games today that I mentioned (Cities, TW Warhammer, Witcher 3, BF1) at 1440p 60fps?

Obviously I'm looking for as-close-to-faultless as I can get without any drops, so if a 1070 would do that, I might grab the savings and pick that up instead.

BF1's well-optmized; checking the benchmarks, you're averaging 92 frames a second on DX11 - Ultra at 1440p.

Witcher 3 averages at 73 on Ultra at 1440p without HairWorks turned on.

Total War, can't get the figures for 1440p but I've heard it's optimized pretty decently and you'd get 110/120 frames per second on Ultra at 1080p, so 1440p should at least hold a very steady 60 or above. Same as Cities I would imagine, which would also be CPU-intensive I'd say, though that's just a guess based on the sort of backward work required in games like that and Civ.

I've just bought the GIGABYTE G1 Windforce 1070 myself (I was basing my opinion on my mate's one) so I can give a more robust idea once I've built my PC this weekend.

 

[Ark]

BF1's well-optmized; checking the benchmarks, you're averaging 92 frames a second on DX11 - Ultra at 1440p.

Witcher 3 averages at 73 on Ultra at 1440p without HairWorks turned on.

Total War, can't get the figures for 1440p but I've heard it's optimized pretty decently and you'd get 110/120 frames per second on Ultra at 1080p, so 1440p should at least hold a very steady 60 or above. Same as Cities I would imagine, which would also be CPU-intensive I'd say, though that's just a guess based on the sort of backward work required in games like that and Civ.

I've just bought the GIGABYTE G1 Windforce 1070 myself (I was basing my opinion on my mate's one) so I can give a more robust idea once I've built my PC this weekend.

Might just save myself a couple hundred and pick up the 1070 then. I'll do some more research when I get home tonight. Thanks!

 

[Kneefoil]

I'm currently looking to upgrade from my GTX560 to a newer GPU. I only have a 1080p monitor, and I feel like that's still enough for me. I'm not a stickler for Ultra High graphics, but it would be nice to be able to play modern games with at least a good part of settings on High @60fps even a few years from now.

So the question is, PC-GAF, how many years do you think a GTX1060 would last someone like me? I'm not entirely sure if I should get one of those, or to splurge and get a 1070 in order to future-proof my machine a bit more.

 

[Unkle]

I'm currently looking to upgrade from my GTX560 to a newer GPU. I only have a 1080p monitor, and I feel like that's still enough for me. I'm not a stickler for Ultra High graphics, but it would be nice to be able to play modern games with at least a good part of settings on High @60fps even a few years from now.

So the question is, PC-GAF, how many years do you think a GTX1060 would last someone like me? I'm not entirely sure if I should get one of those, or to splurge and get a 1070 in order to future-proof my machine a bit more.

If you're definitely sticking with 1080p gaming then go for the 1060, the 1070 would be overkill.

Here's PC Gamer's sixteen game average (on Ultra) with the 1060 coming up with a 82.7 fps average. Provided games are optimized well, you'll be set for a decent amount of time.

 

[Veritigo_X]

Oh cool, Samsung emailed me letting me know my 960 Evo is "anticipated" to ship next week. Considering they initially anticipated it would ship early November, I don't have much confidence but at least this answer is better than "this is a popular product, please have patience as we fulfill your order."

 

[rtcn63]

So just to make sure, a 1070 would run all the testing games today that I mentioned (Cities, TW Warhammer, Witcher 3, BF1) at 1440p 60fps?

Obviously I'm looking for as-close-to-faultless as I can get without any drops, so if a 1070 would do that, I might grab the savings and pick that up instead.

I've read that The Witcher 3 has trouble keeping 60fps at 1080p/1440p in I believe one (or some) of the major cities even on higher-end GPU's. CPU bottleneck possibly.

I'm currently looking to upgrade from my GTX560 to a newer GPU. I only have a 1080p monitor, and I feel like that's still enough for me. I'm not a stickler for Ultra High graphics, but it would be nice to be able to play modern games with at least a good part of settings on High @60fps even a few years from now.

So the question is, PC-GAF, how many years do you think a GTX1060 would last someone like me? I'm not entirely sure if I should get one of those, or to splurge and get a 1070 in order to future-proof my machine a bit more.

I recently purchased a 1060 6GB. After doing my research, I'm expecting to do at least 1080/60fps medium settings for the next 3-5 years (with an overclocked Core i5). This is on well-optimized games like Unkle pointed out, certain titles (open-world and those designed specifically to run at a locked 30fps in particular) always have the potential to be problematic, especially once you start flipping on the high and ultra high settings. And sometimes ports are just shit and never get fixed.

The 1060 6GB goes for around $100 less than the 1070 on sale, and that money for me can be put towards a new GPU down the line if I need one.

 

[chrislowe]

Maybe you all know this now, but there is a firmware for you who have a RX460 that unlocks more streamprocessors.
Saw a review and he had success with all cards he tried, and got around 7 to 9% speedboost.

http://overclocking.guide/amd-radeon-rx-460-unlocking-1024-stream-processors/

 

[mkenyon]

Picked up the S2716DGR last night, and it's *really* similar to my PG278Q, but I knew that going in. I just wanted a second 1440p monitor (setting up two stations for me and wife for working from home).

Color is just as great as it is on the PG278Q, but of course when you stare at a static screen you get lack of uniformity. I don't notice it in games, don't even notice it in EUIV which is fairly static, but I'm not looking for it either.

Overall, I'm so happy you can get a 1440p G-Sync panel for $500-600.

 

[SickBoy]

It's been forever since I've built a PC (or used Windows significantly for that matter), but I'm gathering components for a build now.

I've mostly got my build planned out and one of the key aspects for me is a smaller form factor... so I've been looking into affordable cases and for a lot of reasons I like the Thermaltake V21 (and the smaller V1).

One of the aspects I do like is that hot air from components like the GPU and CPU isn't going to wind up venting into the power supply... so many smaller cases seem to have the power supply almost sitting right on top of the CPU cooler... but I'm a bit uncertain about putting it in the lower compartment as well. I see a lot of builds where the power supply fan would seem to have (in theory) very little clearance from the platform where the motherboard sits... which makes me wonder how airflow is for the PSU (and whether heat rising from the PSU is going to have a significant effect on CPU temps and just general component lifespan).

I don't really wish to do anything exotic in terms of system cooling... my plan was to keep the stock Intel cooler on the i5-6500 and probably add a couple of additional case fans to just get more air moving through the case...

TLDR: Should I have any substantial worries about the effects of heat and potential airflow concerns — particularly with regard to heat from the power supply affecting the CPU and ensuring proper air flow through the power supply itself with Thermaltake's Core V1/V21 cases?

If anyone's interested, this is the build I'm planning... have a drive ready to install in the system and may not immediately buy the GPU (it's not for gaming solely, but as prices settle, this seems like the right point in time to invest in a graphics card... and yes, pricing is Canadian)

PCPartPicker part list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/7TK3NN

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($263.94 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-C/CSM Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($78.96 @ shopRBC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB 6GT OC Video Card ($349.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($79.39 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($98.95 @ DirectCanada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($118.50 @ shopRBC)
Total: $1059.72

 

[kennah]

Overall, I'm so happy you can get a 1440p G-Sync panel for $500-600.

First thing I'm doing after getting a job and paying back a bit of the moving debt.

 

[LilJoka]

It's been forever since I've built a PC (or used Windows significantly for that matter), but I'm gathering components for a build now.

I've mostly got my build planned out and one of the key aspects for me is a smaller form factor... so I've been looking into affordable cases and for a lot of reasons I like the Thermaltake V21 (and the smaller V1).

One of the aspects I do like is that hot air from components like the GPU and CPU isn't going to wind up venting into the power supply... so many smaller cases seem to have the power supply almost sitting right on top of the CPU cooler... but I'm a bit uncertain about putting it in the lower compartment as well. I see a lot of builds where the power supply fan would seem to have (in theory) very little clearance from the platform where the motherboard sits... which makes me wonder how airflow is for the PSU (and whether heat rising from the PSU is going to have a significant effect on CPU temps and just general component lifespan).

I don't really wish to do anything exotic in terms of system cooling... my plan was to keep the stock Intel cooler on the i5-6500 and probably add a couple of additional case fans to just get more air moving through the case...

TLDR: Should I have any substantial worries about the effects of heat and potential airflow concerns — particularly with regard to heat from the power supply affecting the CPU and ensuring proper air flow through the power supply itself with Thermaltake's Core V1/V21 cases?

If anyone's interested, this is the build I'm planning... have a drive ready to install in the system and may not immediately buy the GPU (it's not for gaming solely, but as prices settle, this seems like the right point in time to invest in a graphics card... and yes, pricing is Canadian)

Personally think the case is a bit tacky, i think Fractal Designs line up is better.
Either their Node 304 for ITX, or Nano S line up.

Heres an ITX build. If you are ready to go mATX you can probably go ITX.
This rig is barely going to use 300W fully maxed out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($259.75 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($88.50 @ Vuugo)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB 6GT OC Video Card ($349.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($81.32 @ Amazon Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($118.50 @ shopRBC)
Total: $1068.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-12 14:27 EST-0500

 

[Baleoce]

How can I diagnose if my power supply is causing me issues? Sometimes if I have a lot of devices plugged in and I play a game, my PC will crash and be really temperamental and sometimes not even make it past the splash screen or attempt to go into repair mode through repeatedly crashing or powering itself down.

CPU: i7 950 3.2GHz (retailer overclocked to 3.8GHz)
RAM: Corsair 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 1600
Mobo: Gigabyte X58A-UD3R (rev.1)
GPU: GTX 760 MSI TwinFrozr Edition
PSU: CORSAIR/CMPSU-550VXU
Storage: 1TB SAMSUNG HD103SJ SATA F3 (x2)
OS: Windows 10 64-bit

I've had the PC for about 6 years now. it originally came with a GTX460, but I swapped it out after a couple of years, but made sure there was no additional power draw requirement from the new card, and from what I gather, the 1060 is even more power efficient so I may consider that in the future. I added a sound card (creative x-fi titanium) and there is a dvd drive in there as well. I also tend to have a lot of USB components attached to it. Although lately i've felt like I need to disconnect the ones I don't need).

After a couple of years I attempted to switch to SSD. All was well at first, but then one day the overclock seemingly failed and I was prompted with a screen on startup telling me there was a voltage error or something, and so the overclock was reset. So I went into the BIOS and reapplied the overclock preset put in by the retailer who sold me the PC. Weirdly it couldn't boot the OS after this, and i tried changing the boot order again that might have reset when I changed the BIOS profile back, but nothign worked. I ended up having to return the SSD and go back to the HDD OS installation.

It seems that whenever I attempt to expand in any way that the machine revolts and tells me no. Is it a safe bet that my machine is just generally hitting its power draw limits? Or perhaps the PSU is not drawing maximum load, but actually faulty? Is there any way I can find out for sure what is going on? I don't want to ditch a component and swap it out if it's not necessarily the cause of the problem. Btw, I've seen the overclock failure screen on start up regularly, and not just when I switched to the SSD, it's been a constant "feature" of my using this PC. I tried running the regular manufacture clcokspeed for the CPU (3.2GHz) and I still had a crash last night with it, but this was after it had just crashed, so it might have just been temperamental again, which it regularly is after an initial crash.

I should also mention that I have a USB audio device (Komplete Audio 6) that i use a microphone with, that requires phantom power (48v).

I am half tempted to just buy a really good graded PSU, but I just need to know if that's 100% the reason before doing anything about it.

 

[Mupod]

How can I diagnose if my power supply is causing me issues? Sometimes if I have a lot of devices plugged in and I play a game, my PC will crash and be really temperamental and sometimes not even make it past the splash screen or attempt to go into repair mode through repeatedly crashing or powering itself down.

CPU: i7 950 3.2GHz (retailer overclocked to 3.8GHz)
RAM: Corsair 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 1600
Mobo: Gigabyte X58A-UD3R (rev.1)
GPU: GTX 760 MSI TwinFrozr Edition
PSU: CORSAIR/CMPSU-550VXU
Storage: 1TB SAMSUNG HD103SJ SATA F3 (x2)
OS: Windows 10 64-bit

I've had the PC for about 6 years now. it originally came with a GTX460, but I swapped it out after a couple of years, but made sure there was no additional power draw requirement from the new card, and from what I gather, the 1060 is even more power efficient so I may consider that in the future. I added a sound card (creative x-fi titanium) and there is a dvd drive in there as well. I also tend to have a lot of USB components attached to it. Although lately i've felt like I need to disconnect the ones I don't need).

After a couple of years I attempted to switch to SSD. All was well at first, but then one day the overclock seemingly failed and I was prompted with a screen on startup telling me there was a voltage error or something, and so the overclock was reset. So I went into the BIOS and reapplied the overclock preset put in by the retailer who sold me the PC. Weirdly it couldn't boot the OS after this, and i tried changing the boot order again that might have reset when I changed the BIOS profile back, but nothign worked. I ended up having to return the SSD and go back to the HDD OS installation.

It seems that whenever I attempt to expand in any way that the machine revolts and tells me no. Is it a safe bet that my machine is just generally hitting its power draw limits? Or perhaps the PSU is not drawing maximum load, but actually faulty? Is there any way I can find out for sure what is going on? I don't want to ditch a component and swap it out if it's not necessarily the cause of the problem. Btw, I've seen the overclock failure screen on start up regularly, and not just when I switched to the SSD, it's been a constant "feature" of my using this PC. I tried running the regular manufacture clcokspeed for the CPU (3.2GHz) and I still had a crash last night with it, but this was after it had just crashed, so it might have just been temperamental again, which it regularly is after an initial crash.

I should also mention that I have a USB audio device (Komplete Audio 6) that i use a microphone with, that requires phantom power (48v).

I am half tempted to just buy a really good graded PSU, but I just need to know if that's 100% the reason before doing anything about it.

Did all of this start happening after you got the sound card? Because it sounds similar to what my own busted x-fi was doing to my system. It would either hard freeze while screeching, or slow down to a crawl until I had to reboot. Then throw up the 'overclocking failed' message which was a hell of a red herring. My issue was so incredibly specific and something I'd never heard of happening to anyone else, it drove me nuts for months. So it'd be crazy if it was the same case here.

If not for prior experience I'd also guess PSU, I would take out all the USB stuff and run OCCT's PSU test. Which basically just tries to max out your CPU and video card with linpack and furmark.

Alternatively there could be an issue with the motherboard/USB ports. In that case I'd just test the ports systematically.

 

[NaturalHigh]

Alright. I probably don't have time to build a PC myself, anyone have any suggestions for solid gaming desktops at around the 600-800 range?

EDIT: Must have Wifi

Powerspec G220

I've had mine a couple weeks, picked it up from local Microcenter and you literally can't beat if for the money. Even if you wanted to build it. Wifi comes on it as well, you just screw antennas on when you get out of the box.

They have a model below this one as well that may have all the specs you need, that way you can get a monitor too.

 

[Baleoce]

Did all of this start happening after you got the sound card? Because it sounds similar to what my own busted x-fi was doing to my system. It would either hard freeze while screeching, or slow down to a crawl until I had to reboot. Then throw up the 'overclocking failed' message which was a hell of a red herring. My issue was so incredibly specific and something I'd never heard of happening to anyone else, it drove me nuts for months. So it'd be crazy if it was the same case here.

If not for prior experience I'd also guess PSU, I would take out all the USB stuff and run OCCT's PSU test. Which basically just tries to max out your CPU and video card with linpack and furmark.

Alternatively there could be an issue with the motherboard/USB ports. In that case I'd just test the ports systematically.

Ha that would be quite a coincidence xD I have the X-Fi disabled at the moment. It's still in the machine but it shouldn't be drawing any power. I can't recall if issues started happening after installing that. But I might take it out fully tomorrow just to eliminate it properly.

Yeah PSU or mobo/USB is where my mind is at currently. I'll try OCCT again. I did try it before and it would crash when I did a GPU or PSU load test (CPU worked fine). As for parsing the information to find out what happened, it'd probably take a smarter person than me!

Edit - just crashed again during a occt psu stress test. Does it still record the logs?

 

[microdot]

Would spending $1k on a 34" ultra wide acer x34 predator or asus PG348Q ROG swift be a good idea?

I have a Dell S2716DG on order but ultrawides are tempting me.

 

[opticalmace]

Would spending $1k on a 34" ultra wide acer x34 predator or asus PG348Q ROG swift be a good idea?

I have a Dell S2716DG on order but ultrawides are tempting me.

What video card (and cpu) do you have? Also I think some games still have compatibility problems with 21:9, something to look up depending on what you like to play.

 

[microdot]

What video card (and cpu) do you have? Also I think some games still have compatibility problems with 21:9, something to look up depending on what you like to play.

gtx 1080 + 6700k

Playing mostly AAA titles.

 

[Dmax3901]

I don't have the money so I'm not really sure why I'm asking, but if you guys had an R9 290 what would you consider to be a smart upgrade?

 

[Young Magus]

Are there any new low-profile graphics cards out there or is the 750ti still the gold standard?

Heres my model of the 750ti Im using for reference

 

[Amagon]

Dammit!!! The 960 EVO has been delayed!

 

[Celcius]

I've been waiting on the 960 Pro to be in stock forever. Due to the shortages they're hard to get. Newegg or Amazon haven't listed any for sale since the initial batch that was probably preordered but I see that Beach Audio is selling them via Newegg or Amazon with a $42 markup.
Worth it or should I hold out to pay retail? Do you think these will be readily available in January? Worth buying from a 3rd party seller instead of from Amazon or Newegg directly?

 

[Finaika]

Dammit!!! The 960 EVO has been delayed!

WTF?!

 

[Amagon]

I've been waiting on the 960 Pro to be in stock forever. Due to the shortages they're hard to get. Newegg or Amazon haven't listed any for sale since the initial batch that was probably preordered but I see that Beach Audio is selling them via Newegg or Amazon with a $42 markup.
Worth it or should I hold out to pay retail? Do you think these will be readily available in January? Worth buying from a 3rd party seller instead of from Amazon or Newegg directly?

I really hope Samsung can provide a better idea on when they will ship out (they won't). Pretty infuriating preordering this SSD from Samsung themselves and they have no idea on a shipping date.

 

[bomblord1]

Are there any new low-profile graphics cards out there or is the 750ti still the gold standard?

Heres my model of the 750ti Im using for reference

I'm not sure how small it HAS to be but the 1070 has a pretty small Mini-ITX version. It's not quite thin enough to be low profile though.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125893

 

[kuYuri]

Are there any new low-profile graphics cards out there or is the 750ti still the gold standard?

Heres my model of the 750ti Im using for reference

Here's a very low profile 1050 Ti.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/10856/msi-adds-lowprofile-geforce-gtx-1050-ti-to-lineup

1050 Ti is a significant improvement over the 750 Ti.

 

[hooijdonk17]

Is there a passive cooling, low profile RX 460 yet? Alternatively, I could live with something like a passive cooling/LP 1050.

 

[kennah]

Here's a very low profile 1050 Ti.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/10856/msi-adds-lowprofile-geforce-gtx-1050-ti-to-lineup

1050 Ti is a significant improvement over the 750 Ti.

That's awesome

 

[Baleoce]

Couple of things.

Stress tests on my GPU/PSU are reliably crashing my PC during OCCT. Is there any way I can still find the log files after a crash has occured?

Secondly, USB port testing / parsing. How is this typically done?

 

[Chris R]

Two quick questions

a) Driver cleaner should be enough to move from ATI to nVidia right?

b) What is the best program to both monitor my CPU/GPU temps as well as tweak my case fan speeds?

 

[Veritigo_X]

Dammit!!! The 960 EVO has been delayed!

Are they all delayed? I got an email saying mine was on backorder. The way Samsung have handled this is beyond frustrating. If I knew I'd be waiting this long I would've just bought a 950. The worst part is Samsung has been holding onto my money this entire time

 

[Bloodember]

Are they all delayed? I got an email saying mine was on backorder. The way Samsung have handled this is beyond frustrating. If I knew I'd be waiting this long I would've just bought a 950. The worst part is Samsung has been holding onto my money this entire time

I'm assuming his was just delayed. The 960 Evo's and Pro's are in the wild. My local microcenter has some configurations in stock.

 

[Mupod]

Dammit!!! The 960 EVO has been delayed!

NCIX here just got the 256GB one in stock...for like 60 bucks more than the price is supposed to be. I want the 512 anyways but that's not cool. But yeah that's the only stock in Canada I'm seeing.

 

[MadYarpen]

GAF, what would be a good quality power supply for RX480 for a reasonable cost?
I assume more than 500W is not a must? Or is it?

 

[tim.mbp]

I want to order a Cryorig C7 to replace my stock Intel cooler, does anyone know if it comes with anything to clean the thermal compound off the CPU or should I buy some isopropyl alcohol?

 

[rtcn63]

GAF, what would be a good quality power supply for RX480 for a reasonable cost?
I assume more than 500W is not a must? Or is it?

http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-radeon-rx-480-gaming-x-review,5.html

500W should be fine, just stick to a quality brand. EVGA, Seasonic, etc. If you're looking for a specific model, do check reviews etc. for coil whine or any incompatibilities.

 

[nataku]

What could cause me to just randomly not be able to access the BIOS anymore? I was just overclocking a couple days ago in it just fine. It's an old 2500k on an MSI P67A-G45 if that matters. Using Windows 10.

 

[Gren]

I want to order a Cryorig C7 to replace my stock Intel cooler, does anyone know if it comes with anything to clean the thermal compound off the CPU or should I buy some isopropyl alcohol?

I just bought one for a SFF build I recently did, and no, it doesn't come with anything to clean up compound with.

 

[Sourtreats]

Is anyone able to give me some suggestions on Mechanical Keyboards? I've been browsing Amazon and having to wade through the non mechanical keyboards I'm feeling a bit lost.

I've looked at Polygons 2016 post for some ideas and watched a few reviews on Youtube. I was looking at the Logitec g910 orion spectrum but it doesn't seem to be rated very highly.

I mainly want RGB lighting (I'm a sucker for flashing lights), media keys and some programmable buttons. I mainly do Graphic Design and Gaming on my PC so looking for a keyboard that fits well for both.

Price range is around £100 give or take.

This is what I've been using for the past 4 years...

 

[tim.mbp]

I just bought one for a SFF build I recently did, and no, it doesn't come with anything to clean up compound with.

thanks

 

[opticalmace]

What could cause me to just randomly not be able to access the BIOS anymore? I was just overclocking a couple days ago in it just fine. It's an old 2500k on an MSI P67A-G45 if that matters. Using Windows 10.

Clear the CMOS?

 

[mkenyon]

Is anyone able to give me some suggestions on Mechanical Keyboards? I've been browsing Amazon and having to wade through the non mechanical keyboards I'm feeling a bit lost.

I've looked at Polygons 2016 post for some ideas and watched a few reviews on Youtube. I was looking at the Logitec g910 orion spectrum but it doesn't seem to be rated very highly.

I mainly want RGB lighting (I'm a sucker for flashing lights), media keys and some programmable buttons. I mainly do Graphic Design and Gaming on my PC so looking for a keyboard that fits well for both.

Price range is around £100 give or take.

This is what I've been using for the past 4 years...

First things first, if you have a store that carries stuff like this around you, I highly suggest that you go and feel some first before ordering. There's a lot of preference around what switches people like most.

However, a short overview is:

Reds = light and linear.

Blacks = heavy and linear

Browns (Razer calls them Orange) = tactile bump, but no click

Blues (Razer calls them Greens) = tactile bump + clicky noise

Topre = smooth, no clacking due to use of rubber dome. People say it feels like a really deep scissor switch (think quality laptops)

In short, I only have one friend who doesn't swear by Reds only, and he prefers Topre. I think Browns feel like something is wrong with it, almost like it's defective. Blues are too noisy, feel great at first, but the click just gets annoying. Blacks are a bit too heavy.

One other factor that is more important than most people realize is the type of plastic used on the keycaps. I kid you not, the overall typing experience is drastically improved when you have PBT caps instead of ABS. It even muffles the sound a bit since the plastic is a bit thicker.

So, use that as a reference for narrowing down what you want.

 

[masterkajo]

short version: A friend would sell me his 980 for cheap, should I take the offer?

long version: I have the following specs
i5-2500k
8GB RAM
ssd
gtx 680 2GB
Corsair CX430W Power Supply

Since I plan on upgrading (to enjoy the new Mass Effect and finally try out Star Citizen alpha just for testing fun) I am thinking of taking him up on his offer. He wants €200 for his zotac 980 4GB card. I was planning to either get a 1060 6GB (~€280) or a rx480 4GB (~€200). How does the 980 fare against those cards? Is this a deal I should take or would you rather pick the newer cards for a little bit more future proofing? (I had a HD7850 for quite a while until I got the 680 from the same friend about a year ago for a beer).

EDIT: I am a bit worried concerning my power supply. I have bought an adapter to power the 680 since I only had one 6 pole connector for PCI cards. I don't want to upgrade anymore components because I plan on buying a new PC in a year or two (or whenever VR hits mainstream or Star Citizen finally releases) but I feel the 680 won't last me this long.

 

[opticalmace]

short version: A friend would sell me his 980 for cheap, should I take the offer?

long version: I have the following specs
i5-2500k
8GB RAM
ssd
gtx 680 2GB
430W Power Supply

Since I plan on upgrading (to enjoy the new Mass Effect and finally try out Star Citizen alpha just for testing fun) I am thinking of taking him up on his offer. He wants €200 for his zotac 980 4GB card. I was planning to either get a 1060 6GB (~€280) or a rx480 4GB (~€200). How does the 980 fare against those cards? Is this a deal I should take or would you rather pick the newer cards for a little bit more future proofing? (I had a HD7850 for quite a while until I got the 680 from the same friend about a year ago for a beer).

EDIT: I am a bit worried concerning my power supply. I have bought an adapter to power the 680 since I only had one 6 pole connector for PCI cards. I don't want to upgrade anymore components because I plan on buying a new PC in a year or two (or whenever VR hits mainstream or Star Citizen finally releases) but I feel the 680 won't last me this long.

480 is close to the 980, and the 1060 is about the same or a bit faster (roughly, depends on the game and drivers and whatnot). I definitely wouldn't buy his card for that price. Get the 480 or 1060 instead.

What PSU do you have? 430W should be fine as long as it's not a cheapo bottom of the barrel unit.

 

[masterkajo]

480 is close to the 980, and the 1060 is about the same or a bit faster (roughly, depends on the game and drivers and whatnot). I definitely wouldn't buy his card for that price. Get the 480 or 1060 instead.

What PSU do you have? 430W should be fine as long as it's not a cheapo bottom of the barrel unit.

It is a Corsair CX430 AFAIK (of the top of my head). And thanks for your input. If the 980 is out of the race, my questions remains (as it has been for a couple of days now) 1060 or 480. That is a hard one.

EDIT: Any good free game deals going on or planned in the near future for either card? That could also help me sway in a direction.

 

[HammerOfThor]

Hey guys.

Thoughts on the Acer Predator Z35 ‑ 35" Curved LED Monitor?

I'd be using it for both gaming an programming. My GPU is a GTX 980 Kingpin. My current monitor is AOC G2460PG 24".

I mainly like an Ultra Wide because its a lot easier when it comes to software development in appose to dual screens.