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[thescience]

Got a question for the experts here:
I purchased a 43" 4K TV (Sony X800D) and have been loving my time with that and the PS4 Pro. Would it be worth it to build a rig around a 1070 to play at 1800p or so? Would I see some good results? I ask because a 1080 is out of the question at about $900CAD, a 1070 is a bit more reasonable. Thoughts?

 

[Vigilant Walrus]

Got a question for the experts here:
I purchased a 43" 4K TV (Sony X800D) and have been loving my time with that and the PS4 Pro. Would it be worth it to build a rig around a 1070 to play at 1800p or so? Would I see some good results? I ask because a 1080 is out of the question at about $900CAD, a 1070 is a bit more reasonable. Thoughts?

Yes absolutely. 1070 will crush 1080p gaming

 

[thescience]

Yes absolutely. 1070 will crush 1080p gaming

Thanks for taking the time to respond, my question was about 1800p gaming though.

 

[ISee]

Got a question for the experts here:
I purchased a 43" 4K TV (Sony X800D) and have been loving my time with that and the PS4 Pro. Would it be worth it to build a rig around a 1070 to play at 1800p or so? Would I see some good results? I ask because a 1080 is out of the question at about $900CAD, a 1070 is a bit more reasonable. Thoughts?

3200x1800 looks actually surprisingly good on a 4k display.
Performance wise 30fps is easily done. 60fps is mostly possible, but you'll have to reduce settings for that.

To give you a better idea about performance:
Witcher 3,1800p, max. settings, hairworks off
Watch Dogs 2, 1800p (temporal), Geometry = v.high, Shadows = v.high, SSR= v.high, extra detail=0, rest=max.
Dark Souls 3, 1800p, max. settings

 

[Angry Grimace]

Oh cool, Samsung emailed me letting me know my 960 Evo is "anticipated" to ship next week. Considering they initially anticipated it would ship early November, I don't have much confidence but at least this answer is better than "this is a popular product, please have patience as we fulfill your order."

Amazon resellers claim to have them in stock and Amazon itself said they were going to release on 12/10 and switched it to "out of stock." I assumed that meant it actually came out.

 

[pathos11]

Hey everyone, I'm in need of some help with a build I'm working on. My office computer has outlived it's usefulness and I asked if I could build a new one and was told to go for it, just keep it under $1,000 if possible, not including software, and have it ordered by the end of the year.

I'm not looking for anything too fancy, but I need it to be snappy and I need it to support two monitors, and hopefully one day three. I will not be overclocking.

This is just for office work, so I don't need anything crazy in the video card department (aside from the monitor support). I'm running office (lots of Excel), do some programming sometimes, and use portfolio management software which uses a SQL database, which is one area that's super slow on my current machine.

I threw this together but in all honestly I have no idea what I'm doing (don't worry, someone else is going to put it together) so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($230.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($53.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.87 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GT 610 2GB Video Card ($34.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($44.15 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($128.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $954.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-13 16:02 EST-0500

[edit]
Updated: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mtvRwV

 

[Mupod]

I will not be overclocking.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($230.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.89 @ OutletPC)

wat

jokes aside just get a non-K and use the stock cooler in that case. Could bump up to an i7 with the money you save.

edit: didn't even see the price on that liquid cooler. I paid around that in canadian dollars for an h115i. Uhhh yeah.

 

[mkenyon]

Hey guys.

Thoughts on the Acer Predator Z35 ‑ 35" Curved LED Monitor?

I'd be using it for both gaming an programming. My GPU is a GTX 980 Kingpin. My current monitor is AOC G2460PG 24".

I mainly like an Ultra Wide because its a lot easier when it comes to software development in appose to dual screens.

1) It's a VA, which is the best for gaming. Amazing colors and huge dynamic range (upside over IPS), and not plagued by color uniformity issues that people have with TN.

2) If you are picky about perfection in your display, you will likely go through a large number of displays while returning them. Lots of reports about one or two dead/stuck pixels, or back light bleed.

I swear though, the people that complain about such things will pull up an image specifically designed to expose those problems, and then throw a hissy fit. Meanwhile, you never notice any of it in normal or gaming usage.

3) You'll eventually want to upgrade that card. Given that it's a KPE, it holds value pretty well. I'd suggest selling it on an enthusiast forum like HardOCP or Overclock.net.

It'll do okay, but not great.

Hey everyone, I'm in need of some help with a build I'm working on. My office computer has outlived it's usefulness and I asked if I could build a new one and was told to go for it, just keep it under $1,000 if possible, not including software, and have it ordered by the end of the year.

I'm not looking for anything too fancy, but I need it to be snappy and I need it to support two monitors, and hopefully one day three. I will not be overclocking.

This is just for office work, so I don't need anything crazy in the video card department (aside from the monitor support). I'm running office (lots of Excel), do some programming sometimes, and use portfolio management software which uses a SQL database, which is one area that's super slow on my current machine.

I threw this together but in all honestly I have no idea what I'm doing (don't worry, someone else is going to put it together) so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($230.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($53.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.87 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GT 610 2GB Video Card ($34.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($44.15 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($128.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $954.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-13 16:02 EST-0500

That's insanely overbuilt for an office PC. Modern i3 processors are quite powerful.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/z94gr7

*edit*

Also, double check to make sure you need the benefits of Win 10 Pro. Not many do. Not a single PC in my office uses it.

 

[pathos11]

wat

jokes aside just get a non-K and use the stock cooler in that case. Could bump up to an i7 with the money you save.

Thanks for that. I said I had no idea what I'm doing!

[edit]

edit: didn't even see the price on that liquid cooler. I paid around that in canadian dollars for an h115i. Uhhh yeah.

I dropped it. Thanks.

 

[Angry Grimace]

Thanks for that. I said I had no idea what I'm doing!

I mean, some people saying buying a K model (k models are unlocked for overclocking, whereas the non-K models are mostly locked at stock speeds) and not overclocking it is like buying a Corvette and driving it 65 all the time. Of course, the difference in price between the 6600 and the 6600k on Newegg is literally 10 dollars and K CPUs typically are clocked higher at stock anyways. However, its a bigger price difference than it seems because K models don't even have a stock cooler, whereas the 6600 just comes with a heatsink which is perfectly adequate for stock speeds running spreadsheets. If you can get one for free, it wouldn't that big of a deal, but honestly, even a 6600 seems pretty overkill for an Office PC, imo. I'd just get the 6600, put the stock cooler on it and save $130 from the entire build.

You also technically don't have to activate Windows 10 to use it. The installation tool is given away my MS for free and you can indefinitely decline to enter a product key without any loss of function beyond the system nagging you.

 

[thescience]

3200x1800 looks actually surprisingly good on a 4k display.
Performance wise 30fps is easily done. 60fps is mostly possible, but you'll have to reduce settings for that.

To give you a better idea about performance:
Witcher 3,1800p, max. settings, hairworks off
Watch Dogs 2, 1800p (temporal), Geometry = v.high, Shadows = v.high, SSR= v.high, extra detail=0, rest=max.
Dark Souls 3, 1800p, max. settings

Pretty much exactly what I was after. Thank you kindly.

 

[Veritigo_X]

Amazon resellers claim to have them in stock and Amazon itself said they were going to release on 12/10 and switched it to "out of stock." I assumed that meant it actually came out.

They seem to be out there, but Samsung didn't reserve much stock for people that ordered from their own website or something. I'm hearing a lot of people getting their orders put on back order too.

I shoulda just waited until Newegg or Amazon got them, but I wrongly assumed that pre-ordering directly from Samsung before any other store had a pre-order up would get it to me the fastest.

 

[ISee]

Hey everyone, I'm in need of some help with a build I'm working on. My office computer has outlived it's usefulness and I asked if I could build a new one and was told to go for it, just keep it under $1,000 if possible, not including software, and have it ordered by the end of the year.

I'm not looking for anything too fancy, but I need it to be snappy and I need it to support two monitors, and hopefully one day three. I will not be overclocking.

This is just for office work, so I don't need anything crazy in the video card department (aside from the monitor support). I'm running office (lots of Excel), do some programming sometimes, and use portfolio management software which uses a SQL database, which is one area that's super slow on my current machine.

I threw this together but in all honestly I have no idea what I'm doing (don't worry, someone else is going to put it together) so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($230.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($53.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.87 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GT 610 2GB Video Card ($34.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($44.15 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($128.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $954.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-13 16:02 EST-0500

1.) You don't need a dedicated gpu for office work or very light gaming. Just go with the iGPU on your CPU. Of course your motherboard will need more than just one diplay connection if you plan for two displays.

2.) A 'K' CPU is useless on a h110 mainboard. K CPUs are made for overclocking and z170 boards.

3.) DDR4 XMP 3000 won't boost/overclock to 3000mhz on your board, safe some money and just get the 2133mhz variant.

4.) Watercooling isn't needed if you don't plan to oc.

5.) 620W is overkill. You can go down to 400, if you want to.

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/P6kDQV
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/P6kDQV/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($191.91 @ Jet)
Motherboard: MSI H110M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($45.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($44.15 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($128.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $748.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-13 16:32 EST-0500

 

[pathos11]

That's insanely overbuilt for an office PC. Modern i3 processors are quite powerful.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/z94gr7

I mean, some people saying buying a K model (k models are unlocked for overclocking, whereas the non-K models are mostly locked at stock speeds) and not overclocking it is like buying a Corvette and driving it 65 all the time. Of course, the difference in price between the 6600 and the 6600k on Newegg is literally 10 dollars and K CPUs typically are clocked higher at stock anyways. However, its a bigger price difference than it seems because K models don't even have a stock cooler, whereas the 6600 just comes with a heatsink which is perfectly adequate for stock speeds running spreadsheets. If you can get one for free, it wouldn't that big of a deal, but honestly, even a 6600 seems pretty overkill for an Office PC, imo. I'd just get the 6600, put the stock cooler on it and save $130 from the entire build.

Thanks for the help. I dropped the K, but stuck with i5.

[edit]

1.) You don't need a dedicated gpu for office work or very light gaming. Just go with the iGPU on your CPU. Of course your motherboard will need more than just one diplay connection if you plan for two displays.

2.) A 'K' CPU is useless on a h110 mainboard. K CPUs are made for overclocking and z170 boards.

3.) DDR4 XMP 3000 won't boost/overclock to 3000mhz on your board, safe some money and just get the 2133mhz variant.

4.) Watercooling isn't needed if you don't plan to oc.

5.) 620W is overkill. You can go down to 400, if you want to.

This is good stuff, thank you. I started my original build based on a gaming PC my friend built for me, so that's why things were a bit out of sort.

 

[Angry Grimace]

I mean, how old is your old machine? On an office machine, I'd be fairly unlikely to even bother with a custom build unless I had a specific need for some piece of hardware.

 

[ParityBit]

I have a couple questions about my new monitor coming tomorrow!

What should I do when I get it? Should I test it for bad pixels and stuff? What would be your advice? Or just go play games?

That being said .... which game would be to get for it? (Predator X34)

 

[opticalmace]

It is a Corsair CX430 AFAIK (of the top of my head). And thanks for your input. If the 980 is out of the race, my questions remains (as it has been for a couple of days now) 1060 or 480. That is a hard one.

EDIT: Any good free game deals going on or planned in the near future for either card? That could also help me sway in a direction.

Check local retailers. I'm pretty sure both cards have promotions going on (not sure what the current game is, maybe Civ 6?).

CX430 is a pretty budget PSU but it'll be okay for now. I'd replace it in the future.

 

[mkenyon]

I have a couple questions about my new monitor coming tomorrow!

What should I do when I get it? Should I test it for bad pixels and stuff? What would be your advice? Or just go play games?

That being said .... which game would be to get for it? (Predator X34)

Do that. If you don't notice anything, then using the tools to specifically find those faults will just point out stuff you don't notice.

I suggest a racing game or space sim.

 

[Celcius]

I have a couple questions about my new monitor coming tomorrow!

What should I do when I get it? Should I test it for bad pixels and stuff? What would be your advice? Or just go play games?

That being said .... which game would be to get for it? (Predator X34)

Battlefield 1 would look great.
When you get it the first thing I would do is look at a completely white screen and look for dead/stuck pixels, then look at a completely black screen and look for backlight bleed. Then look at some websites with solid color backgrounds (like Neogaf's dark theme) and look at the color uniformity across the screen.

 

[ParityBit]

Do that.

When you get it the first thing I would do is look at a completely white screen and look for dead/stuck pixels, then look at a completely black screen and look for backlight bleed. Then look at some websites with solid color backgrounds (like Neogaf's dark theme) and look at the color uniformity.

Doh! Which path do I take? It is a choose your own adventure. I always die 3 pages in

 

[Celcius]

Doh! Which path do I take? It is a choose your own adventure. I always die 3 pages in

Both, it'll just take a few seconds to look at a solid colored screen and then go enjoy your games

 

[ParityBit]

Both, it'll just take a few seconds to look at a solid colored screen and then go enjoy your games

Yeah, I guess I can do a quick check. I hate to think there is an issue right off the bat

I have Doom and Gears 4. I was thinking maybe BF1 or The Witcher 3. Although I missed all the sales ...

 

[Baleoce]

So in general, OCCT stress tests on my GPU and PSU are crashing my system after about 2-3 minutes fairly consistently.

What part of the log files would be helpful for diagnosing this issue? The volt rails?

Could be nothing but, whenever my system starts back up and boots into the OS and I sign in after a crash, I hear the "USB plugged in" sound even though I haven't removed anything prior.

 

[mkenyon]

So in general, OCCT stress tests on my GPU and PSU are crashing my system after about 2-3 minutes fairly consistently.

What part of the log files would be helpful for diagnosing this issue? The volt rails?

Could be nothing but, whenever my system starts back up and boots into the OS and I sign in after a crash, I hear the "USB plugged in" sound even though I haven't removed anything prior.[/QUOTE]
You're on an X58 platform right? There's USB drivers in place since (I think USB 3.0?) was not native to the chipset. It would not recognize those ports until windows and the drivers load. So in a sense, your PC thinks that they're being plugged in.

 

[Baleoce]

You're on an X58 platform right? There's USB drivers in place since (I think USB 3.0?) was not native to the chipset. It would not recognize those ports until windows and the drivers load. So in a sense, your PC thinks that they're being plugged in.

That's right, I'm using a Gigabyte X58A-UD3R (rev.1). I guess that means the two issues are unrelated.

 

[Young Magus]

Here's a very low profile 1050 Ti.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/10856/msi-adds-lowprofile-geforce-gtx-1050-ti-to-lineup

1050 Ti is a significant improvement over the 750 Ti.

Sweet!

When does it hit shelves?

Spoiler

Overseas?

 

[Baleoce]

If I was to replace my power supply due to these issues in my previous posts (even though I guess I haven't absolutely nailed down that it's the culprit), would something like this be suitable? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011RGX5MU/

My typical power drainers consist of roughly:

i7 950 3.2GHz (OC @3.8GHz)
GTX 760 MSI
Probably 6 USB Devices ranging from USB1-3. One of which is an audio device with a phantom power switch (48V) that requires USB power.
An internal sound card and a DVD Drive and a couple of hard drives.

I have no realm qualms buying this PSU as it would be future proofing for a new build with a product that gives a 10 year warranty. I think I'm just running out of ideas on how to diagnose the issue I'm currently having.

 

[opticalmace]

If I was to replace my power supply due to these issues in my previous posts (even though I guess I haven't absolutely nailed down that it's the culprit), would something like this be suitable? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011RGX5MU/

My typical power drainers consist of roughly:

i7 950 3.2GHz (OC @3.8GHz)
GTX 760 MSI
Probably 6 USB Devices ranging from USB1-3. One of which is an audio device with a phantom power switch (48V) that requires USB power.
An internal sound card and a DVD Drive and a couple of hard drives.

I have no realm qualms buying this PSU as it would be future proofing for a new build with a product that gives a 10 year warranty. I think I'm just running out of ideas on how to diagnose the issue I'm currently having.

I don't know much about euro prices but I'd drop down to a G2 series, either 550W or 650W (save like 50 pounds).

Got any links to posts about your issues? What PSU do you currently have?

 

[enewtabie]

So I built my pc back in Sept and haven't had any issues until the last week or so. I'm getting stuttering on every game I play. From BF1 to CSgo. I'm running a wireless card with a Netgear range extender. I'm no network guy so this has me puzzled. The power went out a week ago. Do you think I would need to relink that extender with the router? I had no problems before that timeframe.

 

[kuYuri]

If I was to replace my power supply due to these issues in my previous posts (even though I guess I haven't absolutely nailed down that it's the culprit), would something like this be suitable? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011RGX5MU/

My typical power drainers consist of roughly:

i7 950 3.2GHz (OC @3.8GHz)
GTX 760 MSI
Probably 6 USB Devices ranging from USB1-3. One of which is an audio device with a phantom power switch (48V) that requires USB power.
An internal sound card and a DVD Drive and a couple of hard drives.

I have no realm qualms buying this PSU as it would be future proofing for a new build with a product that gives a 10 year warranty. I think I'm just running out of ideas on how to diagnose the issue I'm currently having.

Way too much. You can drop down to a Gold rated G2 or something similar. Save yourself some money.

So I built my pc back in Sept and haven't had any issues until the last week or so. I'm getting stuttering on every game I play. From BF1 to CSgo. I'm running a wireless card with a Netgear range extender. I'm no network guy so this has me puzzled. The power went out a week ago. Do you think I would need to relink that extender with the router? I had no problems before that timeframe.

What are your temps like?

 

[enewtabie]

Way too much. You can drop down to a Gold rated G2 or something similar. Save yourself some money.



What are your temps like?

Mid 20s CPU 52C on the GPU

 

[ParityBit]

I was thinking of getting the Witcher 3 to play on my new monitor. What is the best version to get for Steam? Any sales .... or should I wait for Xmas or something?

 

[nataku]

Clear the CMOS?

I haven't tried this yet, mainly because I'm worried about still not being able to get in and then being stuck at default settings. I have no PS/2 keyboards around and no adapters. It's not like this was a failed OC - I was in and out of the BIOS all day a few days ago and things were stable.

Guess I don't really have a choice, though.

 

[killertofu]

Tried to over clock my 3570k and now it freezes on the bios... what did I do

 

[Celcius]

Tried to over clock my 3570k and now it freezes on the bios... what did I do

What speed did you raise the cpu to? Do you have the voltage set manually or automatically?

 

[Celcius]

Ugh, I was so ready to upgrade my 2600k to a 7700k in January, but the 8 core 16 thread Ryzen from AMD sounds so exciting... and it's supposed to release Q1 2017 (probably March though). Plus my 2600k still does everything I need it to. However, right after Ryzen then Skylake-X will probably be right around the corner...

 

[killertofu]

What speed did you raise the cpu to? Do you have the voltage set manually or automatically?

4.5 :l

Auto voltage


God why do I mess with my computer after drinking

 

[ISee]

I was thinking of getting the Witcher 3 to play on my new monitor. What is the best version to get for Steam? Any sales .... or should I wait for Xmas or something?

Game + DLC (the DLC is extremely good).
Steam Winter Sale is around the corner. I'd wait for that.

4.5 :l

Auto voltage


God why do I mess with my computer after drinking

Yeah 4.5 can be tricky on a 3570k. Just reset your bios by e.g. removing the battery on your mb for a minute or so and try 4.3

Ugh, I was so ready to upgrade my 2600k to a 7700k in January, but the 8 core 16 thread Ryzen from AMD sounds so exciting... and it's supposed to release Q1 2017 (probably March though). Plus my 2600k still does everything I need it to. However, right after Ryzen then Skylake-X will probably be right around the corner...

The 2600k is doing a lot better then the 2500k, especially overclocked. So waiting for zen gaming benchmarks to arrive before making a decision makes sense imo.

 

[HammerOfThor]

Hey guys, I'm trying to put together a gaming PC for my son for Christmas, something mid-level and small. He's only 10 but I'd like this to last him a couple years.

Heres what I've picked. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sP97sJ

Thoughts? No overclocking, he'll mostly use it for gaming, (hopefully) homework too.

1) It's a VA, which is the best for gaming. Amazing colors and huge dynamic range (upside over IPS), and not plagued by color uniformity issues that people have with TN.

2) If you are picky about perfection in your display, you will likely go through a large number of displays while returning them. Lots of reports about one or two dead/stuck pixels, or back light bleed.

I swear though, the people that complain about such things will pull up an image specifically designed to expose those problems, and then throw a hissy fit. Meanwhile, you never notice any of it in normal or gaming usage.

3) You'll eventually want to upgrade that card. Given that it's a KPE, it holds value pretty well. I'd suggest selling it on an enthusiast forum like HardOCP or Overclock.net.

It'll do okay, but not great.
.

Awesome, thanks!

I'm looking into getting a Vive so I'll probably upgrade at the same time a get that.

 

[Angry Grimace]

Well, after several hours of having to keep my cats locked up and comical mishaps like dropping my iPhone onto the motherboard as I attempted to use it as a flashlight because I am stupid and installed the heatsink fans and GPU before plugging in the ATX 28 pin cable, I got it all installed and running.

Booting from NVMe is fun. It boots in about 9 seconds. Install from a USB 3.1 (lol) thumb drive took 9 minutes.

 

[paperspace]

So my 6700K reaches 80C while playing CSGO on my new build. Any idea why?

No issues with other games. My idle temps are ~30C, but it reaches 80C a soon as I'm in the menu.

Specs:

6700K @ 4.4 (Noctua NH-D15)
1080
3200MHz 32GB

Tried disabling multicore rendering, didn't change anything. Considering disabling HT as well, although I doubt it will do anything either. I'm at a loss here. Had no issues with my 4790K, and my 6700K performs great otherwise.

 

[opticalmace]

So my 6700K reaches 80C while playing CSGO on my new build. Any idea why?

No issues with other games. My idle temps are ~30C, but it reaches 80C a soon as I'm in the menu.

Specs:

6700K @ 4.4 (Noctua NH-D15)
1080
3200MHz 32GB

Tried disabling multicore rendering, didn't change anything. Considering disabling HT as well, although I doubt it will do anything either. I'm at a loss here. Had no issues with my 4790K, and my 6700K performs great otherwise.

Cooler improperly seated. Redo it and replace the thermal paste.

 

[LilJoka]

So my 6700K reaches 80C while playing CSGO on my new build. Any idea why?

No issues with other games. My idle temps are ~30C, but it reaches 80C a soon as I'm in the menu.

Specs:

6700K @ 4.4 (Noctua NH-D15)
1080
3200MHz 32GB

Tried disabling multicore rendering, didn't change anything. Considering disabling HT as well, although I doubt it will do anything either. I'm at a loss here. Had no issues with my 4790K, and my 6700K performs great otherwise.

What vcore?
Uncapped fps on cs go only?

 

[Cannon Goose]

I have some concerns with the temperature of my new GPU (MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X) when comparing it to various reviews I read before buying it.

Every review I've read states that the temperature under load is in the low 70s but mine is always in the high 70s low 80s when playing a graphically intensive game (Watch Dogs 2, Overwatch, The Evil Within, etc.). Even the idle temperatures are higher than what's recorded in the reviews with it sitting at around 58 degrees.

As far as I can tell it seems to perform well in games but how can I know if it's thermal throttling or if this is even a big issue?

 

[hoserx]

I have some concerns with the temperature of my new GPU (MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X) when comparing it to various reviews I read before buying it.

Every review I've read states that the temperature under load is in the low 70s but mine is always in the high 70s low 80s when playing a graphically intensive game (Watch Dogs 2, Overwatch, The Evil Within, etc.). Even the idle temperatures are higher than what's recorded in the reviews with it sitting at around 58 degrees.

As far as I can tell it seems to perform well in games but how can I know if it's thermal throttling or if this is even a big issue?

Things to consider:

-Have you tried setting up a manual fan profile to ramp it up quicker?
-Does your case have good airflow? This doesn't mean "a lot of fans", it means actual airflow. Does air come IN and then go OUT in a pattern?
-What is the ambient temperature in the room your computer is in? That's obviously a key.

 

[ISee]

I have some concerns with the temperature of my new GPU (MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X) when comparing it to various reviews I read before buying it.

Every review I've read states that the temperature under load is in the low 70s but mine is always in the high 70s low 80s when playing a graphically intensive game (Watch Dogs 2, Overwatch, The Evil Within, etc.). Even the idle temperatures are higher than what's recorded in the reviews with it sitting at around 58 degrees.

As far as I can tell it seems to perform well in games but how can I know if it's thermal throttling or if this is even a big issue?

How is the fan speed?

You can easily check for thermal throttling by looking at clock speeds while gaming. Your GPU should settle around 1900 mhz without further overclocking.

 

[paperspace]

Cooler improperly seated. Redo it and replace the thermal paste.

Hmmm, I doubt it, since it's isolated to CSGO. Everything else works fine; 30C idle, and I reach ~60C max in other demanding games.

What vcore?
Uncapped fps on cs go only?

I've tried uncapped and capped at 60fps, 120fps etc. No change.

1.36v vcore

 

[enewtabie]

So I built my pc back in Sept and haven't had any issues until the last week or so. I'm getting stuttering on every game I play. From BF1 to CSgo. I'm running a wireless card with a Netgear range extender. I'm no network guy so this has me puzzled. The power went out a week ago. Do you think I would need to relink that extender with the router? I had no problems before that timeframe.

Update to this
6700k/1070
16g Corsair ram
TP Link N900 Wireless card

So I updated wireless adapter drivers and still having lag issues in every multiplayer game. Single player is no problem. No problems with youtube or internet. I have a Netgear N300 router as well. So weird it went from running to lagging in BF1, Doom and CS go. Temps seem fine.

 

[Mupod]

Hmmm, I doubt it, since it's isolated to CSGO. Everything else works fine; 30C idle, and I reach ~60C max in other demanding games.



I've tried uncapped and capped at 60fps, 120fps etc. No change.

1.36v vcore

I mean, what temps do you get running actual stress tests like prime95 or linpack or whatever? Many games don't stress the CPU at all. I definitely think you should consider reseating the cooler.

1.36 isn't at all dangerous for a 6700k but just saying it seems high for 4.4. I just got mine and I'm still tweaking, but it's been 4.8@1.37 for a couple weeks stable.

 

[Cannon Goose]

Things to consider:

-Have you tried setting up a manual fan profile to ramp it up quicker?
-Does your case have good airflow? This doesn't mean "a lot of fans", it means actual airflow. Does air come IN and then go OUT in a pattern?
-What is the ambient temperature in the room your computer is in? That's obviously a key.

1. I haven't tried this yet but I do know how to set that up in Afterburner, so I'll take a look at it.
2. I think the front intake fan isn't connected but there are fans blowing out on the top and back.
3. It's summer here in Australia at the moment but it hasn't really ramped up yet. Today was only around 24 degrees and my room has stayed fairly cool. Unfortunately I don't have a thermometer so I can't check the exact temp inside my room.

My previous GPU was a similar model GTX 970 (MSI, fans don't spin up until ~60 degrees) and I think the absolute hottest I ever saw that go was 74 degrees, usually it was 68-70.

How is the fan speed?

You can easily check for thermal throttling by looking at clock speeds while gaming. Your GPU should settle around 1900 mhz without further overclocking.

1. Fan speed maxed out at 63% in Overwatch with a temp of around 75. For The Evil Within the speed topped out at 69% and the temperature was 77.
2. When I start a game it tends to go to around 1910 and then goes down to 1870-1890 once I've played for a few minutes regardless of temperature. It doesn't dip further than that from what I've seen.

Here's the default fan curve in Afterburner.

What would you recommend I change it to?