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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Rbk_3

Member
Nothing wrong with a 6600k, gtx 1070 combo.
The thing is native 4k is extremely hard to reach even on 1080s.

I bought a new display from me to me for christmas and my choice was between 1440p,27" and 4k, 28". I ordered both displays to compare them and 1440p --> 4k can look decent but you can spot the difference easily. In the end I went with the 1440p display because playing at native 1440p looks better then playing at 1440p->4k.
Of course that's not an option for you, but an overclocked 1070 has enough power to go for 3200x1800/60 in most games if you're willing to turn down settings. The difference between native 4k and 1800p is still visible but on a 55" TV which isn't right in your face (as in my situation) it might be good enough.

Some 1070/1800p performance tests I've done:

Witcher 3,1800p, max. settings, hairworks off
Watch Dogs 2, 1800p (temporal), Geometry = v.high, Shadows = v.high, SSR= v.high, extra detail=0, rest=max.
Dark Souls 3, 1800p, max. settings



Overclocked i5s (2500k/3570k) are still viable in many games. The thing is, they are running at their limit in others, especially in many open world games. Spring of 2016 my old mobo died and I had to buy new stuff, at this point I was a bit annoyed because I was under the impression that my good old 3570k (4.3ghz) would be able to bring me through the next 2-3 years.
To make a long story short: I was shocked about the performance gain.

Just Cause 3, GTX 980, 3570k (4.3 ghz), 53fps
Just Cause 3, GTX 980, 6700k (4.3 ghz), 94 fps
Just Cause 3, GTX 980, 6600k (6700 without HTT, 4.3 ghz), ~ 88fps (sorry don't have the pic anymore).

That's of course an extreme example but games like Witcher 3 and GTA V also ran better (~30fps). That's huge in my opinion and I'm very much under the impression that it's about time to say goodbye to our old i5s.


Old i7s (2600k/3770k) seem to hold up a lot better. For example a 3770k can outperform a modern 6600k at stock clocks.



THAT said, I'd still go for a new build instead of buying a used 3770k. Just because they are still relatively expansive, old and you never know how reckless the previous owner was. Also: If your mb dies you'll be in trouble. It's getting harder and harder to find good mb with oc features for old cpus.
But kabylake (more or less higher clocked skylake, with better iGPUs) and (Ry)Zen are around the corner. Waiting for them before making a decision could be worthwhile. First Ryzen stuff looks promising but there are no game benchmarks yet besides a pointless 'look it can run BF1 at 4k/60 when paired with a Titan X (Pascal)'.

Thanks for the detailed response. I appreciate it.


How does this build look? Prices are Canadian.

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/XczXVY

Can I get away with a cheaper board, such as the Asus E170-E ?
 

ISee

Member
Thanks for the detailed response. I appreciate it.


How does this build look? Prices are Canadian.

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/XczXVY

Overall a very solid/good build, 1700 cad are about 1100€ which is what you'd pay in central europe for a good 6600k/1070 PC (maybe a bit less).
The only nitpicky thing is the cooler. I'm not a big evo 212 fan, but it will handle your CPU just fine even when overclocking (i5s are cooler anyway, 4.4 ghz should be doable).

Have fun!
 

Horseticuffs

Full werewolf off the buckle
So my current setup is- i5 6600 running at 3.9Ghz, 16gb DDR4 RAM, and a GTX 970 (I have a 1080 coming friday!). I'm trying to move forward with an eye towards 4k since I got a 4k TV.

Some games, like Rocket League, run great at 4k on my 970 but I want to run at that resolution with as little compromise as possible. I don't need a solid 60, mind you, but I need to keep fps above 40 at least.

16gb RAM is still pretty decent, right? What about the processor? I'm just doing the normal overclocking available with my Mobo, and I don't really feel comfortable with any other type of OC'ing. You guys think an i5 6600 (Non K) is going to be okay for a few years more of 4k performance?
 

derFeef

Member
My 1070 is faulty and a replacement is out of question (??) but luckily I can get my full money back, very generous! I think it's because prices are higher now?
I think I will pick up something cheaper as I have just bought other gaming hardware as well.
Thinking about a 1060 or 480. It's funny because it was my first nvidia card for YEARS and was very happy with it until now - kinda swining the other direction again because the software is also very... unstable.
 
So my current setup is- i5 6600 running at 3.9Ghz, 16gb DDR4 RAM, and a GTX 970 (I have a 1080 coming friday!). I'm trying to move forward with an eye towards 4k since I got a 4k TV.

Some games, like Rocket League, run great at 4k on my 970 but I want to run at that resolution with as little compromise as possible. I don't need a solid 60, mind you, but I need to keep fps above 40 at least.

16gb RAM is still pretty decent, right? What about the processor? I'm just doing the normal overclocking available with my Mobo, and I don't really feel comfortable with any other type of OC'ing. You guys think an i5 6600 (Non K) is going to be okay for a few years more of 4k performance?
Oh yeah, your system is fine. Even the 6600 non-k is plenty powerful. Just plug in the 1080 and have fun.
 
I think I can safely say that the intake fan and new fan curve have fixed my temperature issues. Idle temps are down roughly 8-10 degrees and the same is true when under load.
 

Mupod

Member
I am looking to upgrade my GPU in the future and I hear rumors about the 1080ti. If I get that would my CPU become a bottleneck?

4770Km not OC (chicken shit scared to)

While I wait (hope?) for my monitor today, I am debating OCing my CPU over winter break. That sort of thing really scares me though.

Obviously it's dependent on the cooler you have installed, but there's nothing to be worried about these days. For the easiest possible route just google your motherboard/cpu combination and imitate what other people did. Hell just run the vcore/multiplier/load-line calibration settings you want to try by this thread and I'm sure people will have input.

My old 2500k was kind of junk as was my motherboard. I had it way above a reasonable voltage to hit 4.5-4.6. $17 hyper 212 cooler with two $3 120mm fans I had lying around. Still works fine almost 6 years later.
 

Sarcasm

Member
Obviously it's dependent on the cooler you have installed, but there's nothing to be worried about these days. For the easiest possible route just google your motherboard/cpu combination and imitate what other people did. Hell just run the vcore/multiplier/load-line calibration settings you want to try by this thread and I'm sure people will have input.

My old 2500k was kind of junk as was my motherboard. I had it way above a reasonable voltage to hit 4.5-4.6. $17 hyper 212 cooler with two $3 120mm fans I had lying around. Still works fine almost 6 years later.

Just an aftermarket thermaltake something heh. Pretty beefy (looking).
 

Taruranto

Member
foMx489.jpg

Would it be possible to do any upgrade with a budget of, let's say, 500€?

I use it for gaming and emulation, but I don't care much for graphix. As long the game doesn't look virtually repulsive and runs I'm fine. (TW3 for example runs with some dips, but I can't get DS3 to run decently) Mostly want to play stuff that will come out around February/march like Nier/Tales of Berseria .

I know jack shit about this stuff, so bear with me if I asked something idiotic. :C
 

ISee

Member
I just yolo'd and went full out with an GTX 1080

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/JdZXVY


Total came to $2400 CND with tax.

Great.
But if you really want to go high end you should also consider an i7. :)

I think I can safely say that the intake fan and new fan curve have fixed my temperature issues. Idle temps are down roughly 8-10 degrees and the same is true when under load.

Glad to hear.

Would it be possible to do any upgrade with a budget of, let's say, 500€?

I use it for gaming and emulation, but I don't care much for graphix. As long the game doesn't look virtually repulsive and runs I'm fine. (TW3 for example runs with some dips, but I can't get DS3 to run decently) Mostly want to play stuff that will come out around February/march like Nier/Tales of Berseria .

I know jack shit about this stuff, so bear with me if I asked something idiotic. :C

If your power supply is good enough (should be) you have two options:

1.) Get a used i7 2600. The usually sell for around 170€ on ebay.
Plus a GTX 1060 (6gb) for about 300€.

2.) Something like this

Option 1 is more powerful and you could even switch to a fullHD display without any kind of trouble.
 

ParityBit

Member
Obviously it's dependent on the cooler you have installed, but there's nothing to be worried about these days. For the easiest possible route just google your motherboard/cpu combination and imitate what other people did. Hell just run the vcore/multiplier/load-line calibration settings you want to try by this thread and I'm sure people will have input.

My old 2500k was kind of junk as was my motherboard. I had it way above a reasonable voltage to hit 4.5-4.6. $17 hyper 212 cooler with two $3 120mm fans I had lying around. Still works fine almost 6 years later.

I have the H100 (I think the was the model). The contained water cooled one.
 
Would it be possible to do any upgrade with a budget of, let's say, 500€?

I use it for gaming and emulation, but I don't care much for graphix. As long the game doesn't look virtually repulsive and runs I'm fine. (TW3 for example runs with some dips, but I can't get DS3 to run decently) Mostly want to play stuff that will come out around February/march like Nier/Tales of Berseria .

I know jack shit about this stuff, so bear with me if I asked something idiotic. :C

Hm...

Presuming you'd recycle the case, power supply, and storage, you'd be looking to replace CPU, Mobo, GPU, and probably the RAM due to the Mobo. For reference on pricing, where would you buying from? Country wise, I mean.
 

Taruranto

Member
Hm...

Presuming you'd recycle the case, power supply, and storage, you'd be looking to replace CPU, Mobo, GPU, and probably the RAM due to the Mobo. For reference on pricing, where would you buying from? Country wise, I mean.

Italy, so basically all Europe. Can use Amazon and whatnot.

I'm not in a hurry to upgrade by the way, since most of the stuff that interest me is coming out around February/march, do you suggest waiting?
 
Italy, so basically all Europe. Can use Amazon and whatnot.

I'm not in a hurry to upgrade by the way, since most of the stuff that interest me is coming out around February/march, do you suggest waiting?

On the CPU and Mobo at least. AMD and Intel have their new CPUs set to hit the market next market, and even if you weren't to buy Zen or Kaby Lake CPUs, they should hopefully have an effect on the price of current stock.
 
Got my computer back up and running, still on base clock, have my H60 on the processor but the temps are still reading 70-75 C on the BIOS....
 

BadWolf

Member
Anyone know about an issue with a USB device disabling the internet in Windows 10?

I installed the Scp Toolkit thing to make the PS3 controller work and it works fine but when I booted the computer with the controller plugged in it showed that there is no internet connected. I disconnected the controller and restarted and then it was fine.

Also, yesterday I plugged in an external HDD and again the internet connection went out and I had to restart the PC to get it back. The HDD and internet then worked fine.

After setting up the PC I installed the sound and lan drivers for the motherboard but not the chip set. Could this be the reason?

EDIT: The mother board is a Gigabyte GA-H170-Gaming 3.
 

Mupod

Member
I have the H100 (I think the was the model). The contained water cooled one.

Well now you need to go overclock just to justify that thing's existence. You'll be fine lol.

I didn't realize people were buying those without the express purpose of getting a high OC. Second time in this thread in the last couple days. They are quiet* and very easy to install, but that's a lot of money.

*my H115i's fans sound like a jet engine at max but I don't care.
 

ParityBit

Member
Well now you need to go overclock just to justify that thing's existence. You'll be fine lol.

I didn't realize people were buying those without the express purpose of getting a high OC. Second time in this thread in the last couple days. They are quiet* and very easy to install, but that's a lot of money.

*my H115i's fans sound like a jet engine at max but I don't care.

I have a i7 3770k or something like that
 

Renewed

Member
So I'm in the process of seeing what I could put together to replace my laptop as my main use (it's been the case for 5 years now). All I really do is video editing, play games and stream not-so-intensive games. I use a 1080p/75Hz BenQ monitor that I already had for consoles. What I have planned is more intensive gaming than the 720p/low settings I've had on my laptop. So far I have this https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/fy9n9W (Canadian prices)

AMD Athlon X4 845 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
ASRock FM2A88X PRO3+ ATX FM2+ Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card
Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case
EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Logitech G710 Plus Wired Gaming Keyboard

totalling about $950 before shipping and 13% tax.

My questions so far:
- With my budget I'm prepared for at least $1000 but don't want to go over $1500 for my first ever build. Would I be better off considering a different processor/mobo?
- Is a wireless network adapter worth considering? Or I could probably just get an ethernet switch or something like that?
 

Mupod

Member
So I'm in the process of seeing what I could put together to replace my laptop as my main use (it's been the case for 5 years now). All I really do is video editing, play games and stream not-so-intensive games. I use a 1080p/75Hz BenQ monitor that I already had for consoles. What I have planned is more intensive gaming than the 720p/low settings I've had on my laptop. So far I have this https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/fy9n9W (Canadian prices)



totalling about $950 before shipping and 13% tax.

My questions so far:
- With my budget I'm prepared for at least $1000 but don't want to go over $1500 for my first ever build. Would I be better off considering a different processor/mobo?
- Is a wireless network adapter worth considering? Or I could probably just get an ethernet switch or something like that?

I don't know what your home network situation looks like, but if you want to stream anything you absolutely want to run some cable. Not getting into the argument about wireless online gaming but I don't do that either.

I definitely wouldn't get an AMD CPU, but if that's your price range there isn't much choice I guess. An i7 6700 would be worth it for what you want to do, but is far more expensive. If you're doing video editing/streaming and you're gonna cheap out on something, don't cheap out on the CPU...drop that 100 dollar keyboard, maybe.

One observation: you've only got one stick of 8GB RAM there. You want to run dual-channel, get a 2x4GB or 2x8GB kit instead.
 

Renewed

Member
I don't know what your home network situation looks like, but if you want to stream anything you absolutely want to run some cable. Not getting into the argument about wireless online gaming but I don't do that either.

I definitely wouldn't get an AMD CPU, but if that's your price range there isn't much choice I guess. An i7 6700 would be worth it for what you want to do, but is far more expensive. If you're doing video editing/streaming and you're gonna cheap out on something, don't cheap out on the CPU...drop that 100 dollar keyboard, maybe.

One observation: you've only got one stick of 8GB RAM there. You want to run dual-channel, get a 2x4GB or 2x8GB kit instead.

Ahh I see, for my home network the modem/router (Bell lol) is in the living room so I run a 50ft cable to my room, so that's how that is. Looking at options for switching for the i7 6700 and dropping that keyboard bring me to $1088 pre-tax before finding a motherboard, so maybe this'll work. Thanks!
 

Jezbollah

Member
Ahh I see, for my home network the modem/router (Bell lol) is in the living room so I run a 50ft cable to my room, so that's how that is. Looking at options for switching for the i7 6700 and dropping that keyboard bring me to $1088 pre-tax before finding a motherboard, so maybe this'll work. Thanks!

It's better than wireless (but not as good as a wired connection), but have you thought about using homeplugs?
 

vector824

Member
So I'm in the process of seeing what I could put together to replace my laptop as my main use (it's been the case for 5 years now). All I really do is video editing, play games and stream not-so-intensive games. I use a 1080p/75Hz BenQ monitor that I already had for consoles. What I have planned is more intensive gaming than the 720p/low settings I've had on my laptop. So far I have this https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/fy9n9W (Canadian prices)



totalling about $950 before shipping and 13% tax.

My questions so far:
- With my budget I'm prepared for at least $1000 but don't want to go over $1500 for my first ever build. Would I be better off considering a different processor/mobo?
- Is a wireless network adapter worth considering? Or I could probably just get an ethernet switch or something like that?

You want to do all that you need to go this route:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($310.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.15 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($63.24 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card ($326.98 @ DirectCanada)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($62.48 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.98 @ DirectCanada)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($44.99 @ Memory Express)
Total: $1205.77
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-15 13:03 EST-0500

I use a 6600k for 1080p video editing and it's fine. The 5-10% boost you'll get on a 6700k isn't worth the price premium. 1x8gb RAM stick is worth it, dual channel doesn't mean as much with DDR4 speeds.
 

Baleoce

Member

Bump

Also update:


This is the screen I'm commonly greeted with on startup. The CPU is I think factory set at around 3.2GHz or less, and it's overclocked to 3.8GHz by the retailer I purchased the system off of (scan.co.uk) about 6 years ago.

Most of the time it would revert back to factory settings, but as you can see lately it has started to push it back even further (2.53GHz) after a failed boot. Should I just throw money at the problem and get a new PSU/GPU? (Seen as I don't have one on hand to test in place of these current parts in my PC). Worst case scenario I get two working pieces towards a new build I guess. Probably gonna opt for a EVGA 650W G2 and a GTX 1060 of some description, if I go down this route. Any help on the matter is much appreciated though.

For context, OCCT stress tests on my CPU seem to hold up just fine. It only crashes (very consistently) when I do either a GPU or PSU test.
 

noomi

Member
Recently purchased a 6700K CPU and decided to OC it a bit. Sitting at a manual voltage of 1.3 and did a nice OC to 4.5Ghz. All this with my good friend the Hyper 212 Evo :D

Could probably squeeze out another 100-200Mhz but temps and voltage might just push it a bit too far, but for now I am happy... and the extra 100-200Mhz boost is negligible.

I noticed that idle temps hover between 26-30 and running OCCT/Prime 95 v26.6 will push temps to 75+

Not bad I guess, but I'm curious about the idle temps. Anyone care to comment?
 

Renewed

Member
It's better than wireless (but not as good as a wired connection), but have you thought about using homeplugs?

Oh this is interesting. I suppose I could hook up a router or something or would that be too much? Seems like a refurb D-Link Powerline AV500 is about $30, I can keep looking into this.

You want to do all that you need to go this route:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($310.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.15 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($63.24 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card ($326.98 @ DirectCanada)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($62.48 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.98 @ DirectCanada)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($44.99 @ Memory Express)
Total: $1205.77
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-15 13:03 EST-0500

I use a 6600k for 1080p video editing and it's fine. The 5-10% boost you'll get on a 6700k isn't worth the price premium. 1x8gb RAM stick is worth it, dual channel doesn't mean as much with DDR4 speeds.

That price is actually alright for me, just gonna debate on the wireless adapter for a while but I might use that mobo+processor. Thanks!
 

vector824

Member
That price is actually alright for me, just gonna debate on the wireless adapter for a while but I might use that mobo+processor. Thanks!

It's a good combo. Forgo the adapter for now then. I'd throw in another 1x8gb stick down the road, just don't forget to get the same speed.
 

Bloodember

Member
Recently purchased a 6700K CPU and decided to OC it a bit. Sitting at a manual voltage of 1.3 and did a nice OC to 4.5Ghz. All this with my good friend the Hyper 212 Evo :D

Could probably squeeze out another 100-200Mhz but temps and voltage might just push it a bit too far, but for now I am happy... and the extra 100-200Mhz boost is negligible.

I noticed that idle temps hover between 26-30 and running OCCT/Prime 95 v26.6 will push temps to 75+

Not bad I guess, but I'm curious about the idle temps. Anyone care to comment?

Your idle temps are fine. Plus it matters what your ambient temps are in your house, they won't go below that. But 26-30 is good.
 

BadWolf

Member
Is it okay to install motherboard chipset drivers after already having installed audio and lan?

Or is it important for it to have been done first?
 
This is what HWmonitor has if anyone could help me out

CPUID HWMonitor Report
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Binaries
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

HWMonitor version 1.3.0.0

Monitoring
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mainboard Model Z77N-WIFI (0x00000272 - 0x02DC2C9C)

LPCIO
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

LPCIO Vendor ITE
LPCIO Model IT8728
LPCIO Vendor ID 0x90
LPCIO Chip ID 0x8728
LPCIO Revision ID 0x1
Config Mode I/O address 0x2E
Config Mode LDN 0x4
Config Mode registers
00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
20 87 28 01 00 00 40 F3 10 00 00 00 48 80 00 00 00
30 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
50 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
60 0A 30 0A 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
70 09 02 00 00 04 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
Register space LPC, base address = 0x0A30


Hardware Monitors
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hardware monitor ITE IT8728
Voltage 0 0.83 Volts [0x45] (CPU VCORE)
Voltage 1 2.06 Volts [0xAC] (VIN1)
Voltage 2 2.03 Volts [0xA9] (+3.3V)
Voltage 3 3.45 Volts [0xAB] (+5V)
Voltage 4 8.93 Volts [0xBA] (+12V)
Voltage 5 -4.27 Volts [0x59] (-12V)
Voltage 6 -6.19 Volts [0x81] (-5V)
Voltage 7 2.84 Volts [0x8D] (+5V VCCH)
Voltage 8 1.61 Volts [0x86] (VBAT)
Temperature 0 58 degC (136 degF) [0x3A] (TMPIN0)
Temperature 1 95 degC (203 degF) [0x5F] (TMPIN1)
Fan 0 2077 RPM [0x145] (FANIN0)
Fan 1 4530 RPM [0x95] (FANIN1)
Fan PWM 0 0 pc [0x0] (FANPWM0)
Fan PWM 1 0 pc [0x0] (FANPWM1)
Fan PWM 2 0 pc [0x0] (FANPWM2)
Register space LPC, base address = 0x0A30

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
00 1B 10 00 00 FF EF 00 00 00 80 60 00 30 45 95 FF
10 FF FF FF 71 C7 80 80 81 01 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF
20 4E AC A9 AB BA 59 81 8D 86 3A 5F 7F BA CC 3C 3C
30 FF 00 FF 00 FF 00 FF 00 FF 00 FF 00 FF 00 FF 00
40 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 5F 40 AD 6A D4 00 FF FF FF FF
50 FF A8 7F 7F 7F 40 00 61 90 00 3D 12 65 00 00 00
60 00 14 41 46 1C 03 00 FF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF
70 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
80 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 02 30 01 02 01 70 E0 98
90 FF 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 10 97 00 00 40 B5 C1 7D
A0 FE 10 10 10 10 10 10 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
B0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
C0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
D0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
E0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
F0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF

Hardware monitor ACPI
Temperature 0 28 degC (82 degF) [0xBC2] (TZ00)
Temperature 1 30 degC (85 degF) [0xBD6] (TZ01)

Hardware monitor NVIDIA NVAPI
Voltage 0 0.99 Volts [0x3DB] (VIN0)
Power 0 18.31 pc (GPU)
Temperature 0 41 degC (105 degF) [0x29] (TMPIN0)
Fan 0 1110 RPM [0x456] (FANIN0)
Fan PWM 0 30 pc [0x1E] (FANPWMIN0)
Clock Speed 0 324.00 MHz [0x144] (Graphics)
Clock Speed 1 324.00 MHz [0x144] (Memory)


Processors
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Number of processors 1
Number of threads 4

APICs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Processor 0
-- Core 0
-- Thread 0 0
-- Core 1
-- Thread 0 2
-- Core 2
-- Thread 0 4
-- Core 3
-- Thread 0 6

Timers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Perf timer 3.324 MHz
Sys timer 1.000 KHz


Processors Information
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Processor 1 ID = 0
Number of cores 4 (max 4)
Number of threads 4 (max 4)
Name Intel Core i5 3570K
Codename Ivy Bridge
Specification Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3570K CPU @ 3.40GHz
Package (platform ID) Socket 1155 LGA (0x1)
CPUID 6.A.9
Extended CPUID 6.3A
Core Stepping E1/L1
Technology 22 nm
TDP Limit 77.0 Watts
Tjmax 105.0 °C
Core Speed 2702.6 MHz
Multiplier x Bus Speed 27.0 x 100.1 MHz
Stock frequency 3400 MHz
Instructions sets MMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, SSE4.1, SSE4.2, EM64T, VT-x, AES, AVX
L1 Data cache 4 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L1 Instruction cache 4 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L2 cache 4 x 256 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L3 cache 6 MBytes, 12-way set associative, 64-byte line size
FID/VID Control yes


Turbo Mode supported, enabled
Max non-turbo ratio 34x
Max turbo ratio 38x
Max efficiency ratio 16x
Min Power 60 Watts
O/C bins unlimited
Ratio 1 core 38x
Ratio 2 cores 38x
Ratio 3 cores 37x
Ratio 4 cores 36x
TSC 3403.0 MHz
APERF 3574.0 MHz
MPERF 3381.0 MHz

Temperature 0 101 degC (213 degF) (Core #0)
Temperature 1 101 degC (213 degF) (Core #1)
Temperature 2 103 degC (217 degF) (Core #2)
Temperature 3 100 degC (212 degF) (Core #3)
Temperature 4 103 degC (217 degF) (Package)
Voltage 0 0.92 Volts (VID)
Power 0 24.92 W (Package)
Power 1 17.87 W (IA Cores)
Power 2 n.a. (GT)
Power 3 7.05 W (Uncore)
Clock Speed 0 2702.61 MHz (Core #0)
Clock Speed 1 2602.52 MHz (Core #1)
Clock Speed 2 2702.61 MHz (Core #2)
Clock Speed 3 2602.52 MHz (Core #3)


Thread dumps
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

CPU Thread 0
APIC ID 0
Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 0, Thread ID 0
Type 01020105h
Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
Max CPUID ext. level 80000008h
Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 32 KB, 2 thread(s)
Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 32 KB, 2 thread(s)
Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 256 KB, 2 thread(s)
Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 6 MB, 16 thread(s)

CPUID
0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x756E6547 0x6C65746E 0x49656E69
0x00000001 0x000306A9 0x02100800 0x7F9AE3BF 0xBFEBFBFF
0x00000002 0x76035A01 0x00F0B0FF 0x00000000 0x00CA0000
0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
0x00000004 0x1C004121 0x01C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
0x00000004 0x1C004122 0x01C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
0x00000004 0x1C004143 0x01C0003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
0x00000004 0x1C03C163 0x02C0003F 0x00001FFF 0x00000006
0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00001120
0x00000006 0x00000077 0x00000002 0x00000009 0x00000000
0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000281 0x00000000 0x00000000
0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
0x0000000A 0x07300803 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000603
0x0000000B 0x00000001 0x00000001 0x00000100 0x00000002
0x0000000B 0x00000004 0x00000004 0x00000201 0x00000002
0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x00000340 0x00000000
0x80000000 0x80000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
0x80000001 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x28100800
0x80000002 0x20202020 0x49202020 0x6C65746E 0x20295228
0x80000003 0x65726F43 0x294D5428 0x2D356920 0x30373533
0x80000004 0x5043204B 0x20402055 0x30342E33 0x007A4847
0x80000005 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
0x80000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x01006040 0x00000000
0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000100
0x80000008 0x00003024 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000

MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00900
MSR 0x0000003A 0x00000000 0x00000001
MSR 0x000001A0 0x00000000 0x00850089
MSR 0x000000CE 0x00081010 0xF0012200
MSR 0x00000017 0x00040000 0x00000000
MSR 0x00000035 0x00000000 0x00040004
MSR 0x000000C1 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x000000C2 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x000000C3 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x000000C4 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x00000186 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x00000187 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x000001AD 0x00000000 0x24252626
MSR 0x00000194 0x00000000 0x000F0000
MSR 0x0000019A 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x000001A4 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x000001FC 0x00000000 0x0014005F
MSR 0x00000601 0x18141494 0x00000960
MSR 0x00000602 0x18141494 0x00000960
MSR 0x00000606 0x00000000 0x000A1003
MSR 0x00000610 0x0000A580 0x00009F40
MSR 0x00000611 0x00000000 0x16B70F31
MSR 0x00000639 0x00000000 0x0D4D257C
MSR 0x00000641 0x00000000 0x00000000
MSR 0x00000614 0x00000000 0x01E00268
MSR 0x0000019C 0x00000000 0x88040282
MSR 0x000001A2 0x00000000 0x00691400
MSR 0x000001B1 0x00000000 0x88020282
MSR 0x00000198 0x000018FA 0x00001300
MSR 0x00000199 0x00000000 0x0000FF00


Storage
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Drive 0
Device Path \\?\scsi#disk&ven_wdc&prod_wd60efrx-68mymn1#4&4dda929&0&030000#{53f56307-b6bf-11d0-94f2-00a0c91efb8b}
Type Fixed
Name WDC WD60EFRX-68MYMN1
Capacity 5589.0 GB
SMART Support Yes
Volume r:\, 5588.9 GBytes (58.0 percent available)

Drive 1
Device Path \\?\scsi#disk&ven_samsung&prod_ssd_840_series#4&4dda929&0&000000#{53f56307-b6bf-11d0-94f2-00a0c91efb8b}
Type Fixed
Name Samsung SSD 840 Series
Capacity 111.8 GB
SMART Support Yes
Volume c:\, 111.2 GBytes (56.8 percent available)

Drive 2
Device Path \\?\scsi#disk&ven_hgst&prod_hus724020ale640#4&4dda929&0&010000#{53f56307-b6bf-11d0-94f2-00a0c91efb8b}
Type Fixed
Name HGST HUS724020ALE640
Capacity 1863.0 GB
SMART Support Yes
Volume d:\, 1863.0 GBytes (94.3 percent available)

USB Devices
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

USB Device Generic USB Hub, class=0x09, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x8087, product=0x0024
USB Device Generic USB Hub, class=0x09, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x05AC, product=0x1006
USB Device USB Composite Device, class=0x00, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x05AC, product=0x024F
USB Device USB Composite Device, class=0x00, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x046D, product=0xC52B
USB Device USB Composite Device, class=0x00, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x046D, product=0xC24A
USB Device Intel(R) Wireless Bluetooth(R), class=0xE0, subclass=0x01, vendor=0x8087, product=0x07DA
USB Device Generic USB Hub, class=0x09, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x8087, product=0x0024

Graphic APIs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

API NVIDIA I/O
API NVIDIA NVAPI

Display Adapters
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Display adapter 0
Name NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670
Board Manufacturer Micro-Star International Co., Ltd. (MSI)
Revision A2
Codename GK104
Technology 28 nm
Memory size 2 GB
Memory type GDDR5
PCI device bus 1 (0x1), device 0 (0x0), function 0 (0x0)
Vendor ID 0x10DE (0x1462)
Model ID 0x1189 (0x2840)
Performance Level 0
Core clock 324.0 MHz
Memory clock 324.0 MHz


Monitor 0
Model HP 2311xi (Hewlett Packard)
ID HWP301B
Serial CNT2153456
Manufacturing Date Week 15, Year 2012
Size 23.1 inches
Max Resolution 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz
Horizontal Freq. Range 24-94 kHz
Vertical Freq. Range 50-76 Hz
Max Pixel Clock 170 MHz
Gamma Factor 2.2
 

noomi

Member
Your idle temps are fine. Plus it matters what your ambient temps are in your house, they won't go below that. But 26-30 is good.

Thanks for the reply, glad to hear that is within normal range :D

Most people run liquid, but I can't let go of my 212 evo
 
Did you reset to optimized defaults?

What method did you use to apply thermal paste? Maybe post a pic of the inside of your case. High temps with nothing going on to me says the cooler was not properly installed.

Yeah I think the cooler wasn't installed properly. I gutted it, redid everything and am hovering around 39-42 after overclocking to 4.2.

That's fine temp right?
 

noomi

Member
Why it's an ugly ass cooler. Plus some air coolers are just as good as many aio water coolers.

I'm not too concerned with how it looks since I can't even see it, I'm just happy with the performance really.

Would you recommend another cooler? Something with enough ram clearance hopefully :p
 

ParityBit

Member
So I just hooked up my new monitor .... holy cow is this huge and amazing looking.

What do I need to do to get gysync going and bumping it to 100mhz? I want to get it setup correct before I try some other things.

X34!
 
So I just hooked up my new monitor .... holy cow is this huge and amazing looking.

What do I need to do to get gysync going and bumping it to 100mhz? I want to get it setup correct before I try some other things.

X34!
Congrats, you should post up some pictures.

As long as you have the nvidia driver installed, check the nvidia control panel. Should have an option to enable gsync, though it's probably set already.

I would check the manufacturers site, might have a driver or suggestion or even firmware, possibly.
 

Bloodember

Member
I'm not too concerned with how it looks since I can't even see it, I'm just happy with the performance really.

Would you recommend another cooler? Something with enough ram clearance hopefully :p
If you can't see it and happy with the performance I'd just leave it on. But since your asking Noctua makes good air coolers. Personally I use aio water cooler, a NZXT X61.
 

ParityBit

Member
Congrats, you should post up some pictures.

As long as you have the nvidia driver installed, check the nvidia control panel. Should have an option to enable gsync, though it's probably set already.

I would check the manufacturers site, might have a driver or suggestion or even firmware, possibly.

I was going to do this I think.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/acer-predator-x34-34-inch-wqhd-curved-g-sync-monitor,4539-3.html

My info says:
Resolution : 3440 x 1440
Max Refresh Rate : 100 Hz
Mode : NVIDIA G-SYNC
 

Vic_Viper

Member
Best Wireless Network Card/USB Adapter for PC gaming?


Need help finding a good Wifi card or USB adapter for my PC. Built it in July from scratch and everything has been doing great accept my internet speeds. My Lenovo laptop gets up to 12Mbps download on Steam and averages around 6-8, but my PC can barely hit 2Mbps if it can connect at all.

I know Wireless isn't the most ideal but I can't run a wire to my room currently and if my Laptop that's 2 years old can connect just fine with decent speed, I should be able to do it on my PC as well.

Anyone have any recommendations?
 
Need some help with my recent update to Windows 10 Anniversary.

When I did the Anniversary update on Windows 10, my computer completely loses its LAN connection, and since I don't have WIFI on my desktop, I don't have any internet at all.

I have updated the BIOS on my motherboard (ASUS P8Z77-V LK) and I've updated the Realtek PCIe driver (from the Asus's website, should I see if there's a newer one elsewhere?), neither of which did anything.

Last time this happened I just reverted the update and I've been on pre-anniversary ever since, but I want to get some Play Anywhere games working but I can't unless my computer is updated.

Is there anything else I can try? I honestly don't know what else there is I can do.
 

mojiimbo

Member
Saw that EVGA had b-stock GTX 970 SSCs for $150.
Is that a good deal?

Worth it for someone still on an i5 2500k currently running a Radeon 6870? Sorry if it's a dumb question but I haven't been following the scene since I helped build that PC whenever Sandy Bridge came out and was wondering if it'd make a good Christmas present for my younger brother. Obviously he'd be bottlenecked by the processor. Thanks for any input. :)
 

Angry Grimace

Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
I guess whatever problems people had booting from NVMe M.2 drives was worked out in recent firmware stuff because the install was just me turning on the computer to make sure it booted, seeing the drive listed in the boot order, then inserting the USB and pressing the "save and restart" thing in the BIOS. It immediately booted to the USB drive without me adjusting the boot order and that was it. That was literally all I did to install the entire thing.
 

Baleoce

Member
Well I took the plunge in order to try and solve my issue. Worst case scenario, it goes towards a new build that hopefully has some lasting power. Gonna swap out my current PSU and GPU (CORSAIR CMPSU-550VXU and GTX 760) with a EVGA G2 750W and a Gigabyte GTX 1060 6GB. Got a new case and fan set as well (Fractal Define S, and a set of Corsair SP120 quiet's).

Just gonna pretend my bank balance is okay.
 
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