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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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L

LilJoka

Member
Amagon said:
Hey guys, I can use some assistance with a stemming issue I am experiencing after completing my first build.

I have a ASrock Z170 Extreme 7+ / i7 6700k / H100i v2 setup and the H100i fans keep on going up and down while the LED on the cooler block on top of the CPU flashes red, then full on red every few minutes.

Its driving me nuts. I'm idling with Chrome and 10 tabs open. I'm seeing temps fluctuate between 28 to 60 degress when it happens? Any


Edit: I should also mention, after doing restarts on the computer, when doing patch updates. I had received a blue screen with the "whea_uncorrectable_error" message once.
Click to expand...

In the H100i software I see core 2 is 60c but in HWMonitor it isn't - just a timing issue? Do both software show the temp spiking?

WHEA errors are not good, are you running the CPU overclocked? Use prime95 to load the CPU and use HWmonitor to record the CPU frequency when all cores are loaded - it should be 4GHz, if not your board is applying a auto out of box overclock.

What frequency is the ram running at? Use CPUz to find out.

You could use motherboard software to control the h100i fans if you hook them up to motherboard fan headers or just adjust the fan curve in the h100i software so the fans do not speed up till after 65c.

Check task manager to find any process that is spiking CPU usage.
 
R

ryanfadholi

Member
Planning to grab a new SSD, as my current Crucial MX100 128GB just isn't enough anymore.

I'm probably going to buy 250/500GB ones, and it's only for OS and my apps (things like Visual Studio and Android Studio, they took so many space nowadays). My games are stored in another WD Black HDD.

I probably won't notice small differences in R/W speed. Reliability (and maybe slowdown when the drive is nearing full capacity) will be one of my main concerns as reinstalling/moving Windows is a hassle for me.

Is 850 EVOs is good enough to justify its extra price? Or another good reviewed SATA SSD enough? If you have any cheaper alternatives please mention them.

I'm living in Indonesia (and not in its biggest cities) so my choice is pretty limited. What's available here is something around these brands listed: http://enterkomputer.com/ssd.php

Thanks!

EDIT: My motherboard's an Asrock H97 Performance.
 
R

Reckless Onion

Member
Can someone help me build a PC between 500-550€?

It's been ages that i followed hardware and i have no clue whats good, the OP is kinda out dated i think.
Dont need monitor and kb/m


Any help would be appreciated.
 
B

Bleepey

Member
hamster3 3 said:
http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/compu...e-16pk-r1-120-mm-cpu-cooler-10118422-pdt.html

Can you get us a pic of inside your case?
Click to expand...

Sorry missed this:

2cerhus.jpg

2ebhes8.jpg

8x7b5k.jpg

2n15dut.jpg


edit:

http://imgur.com/a/wouYR
http://imgur.com/a/5E9Sa
http://imgur.com/a/JbVE9
http://imgur.com/a/nJKWc
 
G

Garryk

Member
So my PC's New Year's Resolution was to quit working. I'm trying to troubleshoot before I start building a new rig so thought I would ask for help.

Running Windows 10 and it froze up and upon restart it will boot to a black screen with a blinking cursor. I tried creating a USB boot drive to repair my installation but that doesn't get me anywhere either. When I set my BIOS to boot from the USB drive, the Win10 logo pops up, then the spinning dots start up. After it spins for a bit, it then goes to a black screen and stays there until I hard restart. Not sure why the recovery drive isn't starting up.

Any ideas?

EDIT: Tried unplugging the hard drive and that let the installation tool start up. Does this mean the hard drive is fried because it seems to be roadblock?
 
R

rtcn63

Member
Rox598 said:
Yeah I have the reference one. And temps have gotten to about 70 I think last time I checked and for some reason most games I play won't stick to 60fps and drop like mad it was worse when I had an older i5 but it's still happening. Planet coaster for example I have to have on medium to get it locked
Click to expand...

I have an i5 3570k at 4Ghz and a 1060, so we may have a similar setup. (Unless you're not OC'ing your CPU) Some games are just not well optimized or heavily CPU bound- googling Planet Coaster, it seems to suffer from optimization issues currently. https://forums.planetcoaster.com/showthread.php/19986-Frame-Rate-Issues

Dishonored 2 is another recent game where you need a beefy-as-hell CPU to get a stable 60fps without stuttering. Such things are not the norm.

EDIT: Oh, and try changing between "optimal power/adaptive/maximum performance" in the Nvidia control panel (power management mode settings) and see if helps your general framerate in games.
 
C

cheermancy

Member
Hey Gaf, I posted here a couple years ago and I built my first PC. I'm interested in upgrading the video card, and I'm wondering if this option is viable or if I should just wait to build another PC entirely.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($148.06 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B85-G41 PC Mate ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($276.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Graphite Series 230T Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Corsair)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($22.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $681.57

The only thing I changed from my last build was that the video card was a Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card. Would this build be able to handle a 1060? I suppose if I plan on building another PC I could remove the 1060 and put it in that.

Thanks for the help.
 
B

bomblord1

Banned
I got a bit of a challenge for you guys. I'm trying to help a family member with a PC build. They already have a case, a 500W PSU, and a 120GB SSD.

We need a MOBO, CPU, and RAM

Currently they game on a laptop with an AMD A10-4600m and 8GB of ram. I would like this build to be an absolute all around upgrade from this (I know not difficult)

However, the budget is $250-290 after tax absolute max. Saving to spend more later is not an option for them. Also the case only fits Mini-ITX MOBO's.
 
L

LilJoka

Member
bomblord1 said:
I got a bit of a challenge for you guys. I'm trying to help a family member with a PC build. They already have a case, a 500W PSU, and a 120GB SSD.

We need a MOBO, CPU, and RAM

Currently they game on a laptop with an AMD A10-4600m and 8GB of ram. I would like this build to be an absolute all around upgrade from this (I know not difficult)

However, the budget is $250-290 after tax absolute max. Saving to spend more later is not an option for them. Also the case only fits Mini-ITX MOBO's.
Click to expand...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $243.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-02 13:52 EST-0500

Youll need a GPU too if you want to game. Intel integrated GPU is not very good.
 
K

kuYuri

Member
cheermancy said:
Hey Gaf, I posted here a couple years ago and I built my first PC. I'm interested in upgrading the video card, and I'm wondering if this option is viable or if I should just wait to build another PC entirely.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($148.06 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B85-G41 PC Mate ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($276.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Graphite Series 230T Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Corsair)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($22.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $681.57

The only thing I changed from my last build was that the video card was a Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card. Would this build be able to handle a 1060? I suppose if I plan on building another PC I could remove the 1060 and put it in that.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

Yep, the 1060 will be fine in that machine.
 
K

kennah

Member
anaron said:
my budget is from 800-1200 (Canadian)


main use will be light gaming (FF XIV, steam)

Will not be building a PC unless built through NCIX.



Found a computer on newegg that appears to match up with my needs and budget. Thoughts and/or suggestions?


https://m.newegg.ca/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16883221274
Click to expand...
Video card is pretty terrible. For only $200 more from NCIX you get this one with a 1060. I'll look around a bit more. This was just after a few seconds search.

http://www.ncix.com/detail/ncix-pc-bts-impact-tower-02-134417.htm
 
A

Amagon

Member
Bloodember said:
Make sure your bios is updated and you have the newest version of the drivers and software for your AIO. Also how big is your PSU and how old is it?
Click to expand...
This has been done already
LilJoka said:
In the H100i software I see core 2 is 60c but in HWMonitor it isn't - just a timing issue? Do both software show the temp spiking?
Click to expand...
Timing issue. Both programs are showing near identical temps when running.
WHEA errors are not good, are you running the CPU overclocked? Use prime95 to load the CPU and use HWmonitor to record the CPU frequency when all cores are loaded - it should be 4GHz, if not your board is applying a auto out of box overclock.
Click to expand...
I hadn't seen that error besides that 1 incident. I had followed your suggestions with screenshots of before and after, quoted below for reference. It definitely looks like the speeds shot up to above 4 GHz. I had not OC the CPU at all on my end. If the board is doing it on its own, I don't know where to start, to ensure it isn't. I would like to OC later on but want to make sure everything is running fine on stock only.
1tigQPc.png
VvbwjNL.png
Click to expand...
What frequency is the ram running at? Use CPUz to find out.
Click to expand...
I had included a screen shot below.
0LvwREb.png

You could use motherboard software to control the h100i fans if you hook them up to motherboard fan headers or just adjust the fan curve in the h100i software so the fans do not speed up till after 65c.
Click to expand...
I will have to take a look at this option. I just had put everything together, though regarding the mobo software or the h100i software. I'm still new to understanding how these work.
Check task manager to find any process that is spiking CPU usage.
Click to expand...
Just turned on the computer, what popped up a couple times was BitDefender Security, it was using up to 14%, then went back down. Everything seemed to be alot more quieter today than last night.

What I might end up doing is removing the thermal that was originally put on the H100i and use Artic Silver. I might had shot my self on the foot when installing this cooler. I had touch the thermal by accident before putting on the CPU (it was a fingerprint). Also, I might had tighted the screws on it a little too much. Sucks not have a good reference material besides the instructions to install it, to make sure this was setup correctly.
 
K

kennah

Member
CrashPrime said:
So for a 3570k what is the best GPU bang-for-your-buck upgrade from 670's in SLI?

Running 2560x1080 with no plans of 4k any time soon.
Click to expand...
Anything you want. It wouldn't limit anything. 480 is kinda the best bang for the buck but I think the concensus is, if you can afford it go for a 1070
 
L

LilJoka

Member
Amagon said:
This has been done already

Timing issue. Both programs are showing near identical temps when running.

I hadn't seen that error besides that 1 incident. I had followed your suggestions with screenshots of before and after, quoted below for reference. It definitely looks like the speeds shot up to above 4 GHz. I had not OC the CPU at all on my end. If the board is doing it on its own, I don't know where to start, to ensure it isn't. I would like to OC later on but want to make sure everything is running fine on stock only.


I had included a screen shot below.
0LvwREb.png


I will have to take a look at this option. I just had put everything together, though regarding the mobo software or the h100i software. I'm still new to understanding how these work.

Just turned on the computer, what popped up a couple times was BitDefender Security, it was using up to 14%, then went back down. Everything seemed to be alot more quieter today than last night.

What I might end up doing is removing the thermal that was originally put on the H100i and use Artic Silver. I might had shot my self on the foot when installing this cooler. I had touch the thermal by accident before putting on the CPU (it was a fingerprint). Also, I might had tighted the screws on it a little too much. Sucks not have a good reference material besides the instructions to install it, to make sure this was setup correctly.
Click to expand...


Fingerprint on the thermal paste not going to cause any massive issue, the stock paste is a lot better than arctic silver, they use a very good paste.

Just play with the fan curve in the h100i software.

Personally I would stick to windiws defender and use chrome with Adblock (whitelist Gaf of course). There really isn't a massive need for AV suites unless you click on everything.

Go into the asrock bios and if there is a profile setting - choose balanced. Hopefully that will turn off the core enhancement. Otherwise go through the manual.

Asrock used to call it "CPU OC Fixed Mode".
Asus call it multi core enhancement.
Causes the all core turbo multiplier to be equal to the single core turbo multiplier, x42 in the case of a 6700k.
 
B

bomblord1

Banned
LilJoka said:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $243.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-02 13:52 EST-0500

Youll need a GPU too if you want to game. Intel integrated GPU is not very good.
Click to expand...

Thanks I was thinking something similar. I was also considering going with an AMD APU for the better iGPU since a dedicated GPU is too far out of budget.
 
A

Amagon

Member
LilJoka said:
Fingerprint on the thermal paste not going to cause any massive issue, the stock paste is a lot better than arctic silver, they use a very good paste.

Just play with the fan curve in the h100i software.

Personally I would stick to windiws defender and use chrome with Adblock (whitelist Gaf of course). There really isn't a massive need for AV suites unless you click on everything.

Go into the asrock bios and if there is a profile setting - choose balanced. Hopefully that will turn off the core enhancement. Otherwise go through the manual.

Asrock used to call it "CPU OC Fixed Mode".
Asus call it multi core enhancement.
Causes the all core turbo multiplier to be equal to the single core turbo multiplier, x42 in the case of a 6700k.
Click to expand...
I'll take a look into those options with Windows Defender and such. I had been using BitDefender on my last computer, which served me well. The Bios, I will have to take a look into it when I have a chance to find that settings.

EDIT: I just quickly went to the BIOS, and attached a couple screen shots of the setting you might be talking about. I'll have to research it a little bit more on my end.

YD00lpZ.jpg

P7Uo6eN.jpg
Click to expand...
Celcius said:
I was scrolling through and couldn't help but notice your RAM is running in single channel mode... Is this intentional?
Click to expand...
LOL, I just put the RAM on my mobo to B1 & B2 and that was it. If there is a way I need to setup the 2 memory sticks in a different configuration, please, by all means, advise me on it.
 
A

anaron

Member
kennah said:
Video card is pretty terrible. For only $200 more from NCIX you get this one with a 1060. I'll look around a bit more. This was just after a few seconds search.

http://www.ncix.com/detail/ncix-pc-bts-impact-tower-02-134417.htm
Click to expand...
Thanks so much for the response! this stuff is so stressful for me, I want to make sure it's pcgaf approved. lol

I should add that if you picked the parts for me or whatever to be assembled by NCIX I would be fine with "building a PC" that way. I truly have no idea what to look for. :p

generally I also like to get the warranty for these kind of purchases so ideally I'd like to spend 1200 total - if you're at all able to find anything a little cheaper it would be greatly appreciated.
 
Celcius

Celcius

°Temp. member
Amagon said:
:) Thanks for the info!!! If you don't mind me asking, what purpose(?) does having it in dual channel mean for me?
Click to expand...

You're welcome; running your memory in dual-channel mode will give you more memory bandwidth and can increase performance in scenarios that are heavily dependent on memory bandwidth. Realistically though it won't make a huge different in your gaming frame rates but there's no reason not to do it since your memory was designed to run in dual channel mode.
 
L

LostMyNarbles

Member
CrashPrime said:
So for a 3570k what is the best GPU bang-for-your-buck upgrade from 670's in SLI?

Running 2560x1080 with no plans of 4k any time soon.
Click to expand...
I would look at something like the GTX 1070. I did some Google searches to try and gather information as to how powerful the 670 SLI is compared to current cards and while I could be mistaken it sounds like they are comparable to the GTX 980 in performance although, you get the obvious benefits of less heat, power, noise, and get to avoid SLI issues. Using that as a point of reference the RX 480 and 980 look to trade blows with the RX 480 winning some benchmarks and the 980 winning others (At least looking through the Guru3d review) and while the 1060 looks to perform better than the 980 the difference is minor. For a worth wild upgrade I'd get a 1070 or depending on your budget maybe wait for the 1080ti to drop and either get that or see if it affects 1080 prices. Otherwise, if you just want to move away from SLI get the RX 480/1060 depending on what kind of deal you can find.
 
O

OraleeWey

Member
plasmawave said:
Hey guys, is this a good monitor for gaming on the budget? I'd like to keep it under $200.
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824014377
Click to expand...

Looks good. Some reviews are reporting dead pixels on their panels so it might be a gamble. It's also a TN panel which means that the viewing angles are limited and colors aren't as accurate. This usually means that it has higher refresh rate and lower input lag. I couldn't find any mention of the refresh rate though so I'm not sure what the refresh rate is. Input lag is only 2ms which is good.

If you aren't going to be playing competitive games I would recommend an IPS screen instead of a TN panel.
 
P

plasmawave

Banned
OraleeWey said:
Looks good. Some reviews are reporting dead pixels on their panels so it might be a gamble. It's also a TN panel which means that the viewing angles are limited and colors aren't as accurate. This usually means that it has higher refresh rate and lower input lag. I couldn't find any mention of the refresh rate though so I'm not sure what the refresh rate is. Input lag is only 2ms which is good.

If you aren't going to be playing competitive games I would recommend an IPS screen instead of a TN panel.
Click to expand...

Thanks man!
 
O

OrlanisWorks

Banned
I'm looking into upgrading from a Dual-core, because I wanna be able to push some stuff (and also move the dual core over to my music computer).

Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K

FutureMark page

This thing is relatively old, but it appears to still hold up pretty strong. Ya think this would be good to last a few years, or would it be best to save money for a while longer and go bigger/better?

Currently have:
MSI Z97 Motherboard and Sapphire R9 280X GPU.
 
O

OraleeWey

Member
OrlanisWorks said:
I'm looking into upgrading from a Dual-core, because I wanna be able to push some stuff (and also move the dual core over to my music computer).

Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K

FutureMark page

This thing is relatively old, but it appears to still hold up pretty strong. Ya think this would be good to last a few years, or would it be best to save money for a while longer and go bigger/better?

Currently have:
MSI Z97 Motherboard and Sapphire R9 280X GPU.
Click to expand...


Do you live near a microcenter? If so
http://www.microcenter.com/product/...Devil's_Canyon_40GHz_LGA_1150_Boxed_Processor

If not then that i5 you posted is good enough.
 
N

Nostremitus

Member
OrlanisWorks said:
I'm looking into upgrading from a Dual-core, because I wanna be able to push some stuff (and also move the dual core over to my music computer).

Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K

FutureMark page

This thing is relatively old, but it appears to still hold up pretty strong. Ya think this would be good to last a few years, or would it be best to save money for a while longer and go bigger/better?

Currently have:
MSI Z97 Motherboard and Sapphire R9 280X GPU.
Click to expand...
I'd wait a month to make sure there's no pricing shake-up when Ryzen launches.
 
D

Deleted member 59090

Unconfirmed Member
Just got a 1080 and I followed this guide to turn on DSR but whenever I change the resolution in games to something higher I get a message from my monitor that it's too high. With AMD's VSR I just turned it on and it worked. Am I missing something here?
 
Garuda1One

Garuda1One

Member
Amagon said:
Hey guys, I can use some assistance with a stemming issue I am experiencing after completing my first build.

I have a ASrock Z170 Extreme 7+ / i7 6700k / H100i v2 setup and the H100i fans keep on going up and down while the LED on the cooler block on top of the CPU flashes red, then full on red every few minutes.

Its driving me nuts. I'm idling with Chrome and 10 tabs open. I'm seeing temps fluctuate between 28 to 60 degress when it happens? Any
Click to expand...

Wow you have exactly the same issue as me, im using H110i and the fans sounds like 747 about to take off and the temp fluctuate between 40 - 50.

I checked the pump and thermal paste and voila, the pump was not in contact with the CPU correctly so that the thermal paste does not spread. Its still in the same shape i spread into it. So i re-apply the thermal paste, then... push... (with enough force) the pump while im tightening the screw around the pump. (Not really recommended, lol)

This ensure the pump in contact the CPU and the thermal paste spread correctly,my i7 6700k clocked at 4.5Ghz idle temp now sits at around 30 C.
You can also do this to fix the backplate, but im a lazy arse and didnt feel like going to the store and find that rubber washers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEBzLQ6qYnc

Oh, and use quiet profile in CL, its more than enough to cool your CPU.

edit : before do that all, check the backplate and make sure the "notched" side facing up.
 
A

Amagon

Member
Garuda1One said:
Wow you have exactly the same issue as me, im using H110i and the fans sounds like 747 about to take off and the temp fluctuate between 40 - 50.

I checked the pump and thermal paste and voila, the pump was not in contact with the CPU correctly so that the thermal paste does not spread. Its still in the same shape i spread into it. So i re-apply the thermal paste, then... push... (with enough force) the pump while im tightening the screw around the pump. (Not really recommended, lol)

This ensure the pump in contact the CPU and the thermal paste spread correctly,my i7 6700k clocked at 4.5Ghz idle temp now sits at around 30 C.
You can also do this to fix the backplate, but im a lazy arse and didnt feel like going to the store and find that rubber washers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEBzLQ6qYnc

Oh, and use quiet profile in CL, its more than enough to cool your CPU.

edit : before do that all, check the backplate and make sure the "notched" side facing up.
Click to expand...
I'll take this advice with heed when I'll reapply the thermal paste again. You wouldn't know when or how I'll know the pump is in correct contact with the cpu?
 
Garuda1One

Garuda1One

Member
Amagon said:
I'll take this advice with heed when I'll reapply the thermal paste again. You wouldn't know when or how I'll know the pump is in correct contact with the cpu?
Click to expand...

To be honest, nope. Thats why i push the pump with (enough) force while im tightening the screw to make sure its in contact with the CPU so that the thermal paste spreads.

Again, check the backplate and the "notched" side first. refer to step 2 :

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2015/march/how_to_h110i_gt
 
Celcius

Celcius

°Temp. member
Hypothetical situation - Let's say that you wanted to connect everything in your home using wired internet where possible and no wireless. Let's also say you wanted to connect your desktop PC, playstation 3 & 4, and xbox 360 & one. Would you just buy something like one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6503X61478
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122139
and then connect your router & everything and it would all "just work"? Does it matter which port the router gets plugged into or are they all both input & output data ports? How does it know which port is connected to the internet?
 
M

MrFlooD

Member
Celcius said:
Hypothetical situation - Let's say that you wanted to connect everything in your home using wired internet where possible and no wireless. Let's also say you wanted to connect your desktop PC, playstation 3 & 4, and xbox 360 & one. Would you just buy something like one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6503X61478
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122139
and then connect your router & everything and it would all "just work"? Does it matter which port the router gets plugged into or are they all both input & output data ports? How does it know which port is connected to the internet?
Click to expand...

Exactly what you would buy. Although you may want to look at the TP-Link product line. (great stuff and save a few $)

All the routing and IP assignments are still done by your router. The switch simply extends the number of ports. You would have 1 run from the switch to your router. (doesn't matter what port) than simply plug your devices into the other ports.
 
Celcius

Celcius

°Temp. member
MrFlooD said:
Exactly what you would buy. Although you may want to look at the TP-Link product line. (great stuff and save a few $)

All the routing and IP assignments are still done by your router. The switch simply extends the number of ports. You would have 1 run from the switch to your router. (doesn't matter what port) than simply plug your devices into the other ports.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks!
 
C

CrashPrime

Member
LostMyNarbles said:
I would look at something like the GTX 1070. I did some Google searches to try and gather information as to how powerful the 670 SLI is compared to current cards and while I could be mistaken it sounds like they are comparable to the GTX 980 in performance although, you get the obvious benefits of less heat, power, noise, and get to avoid SLI issues. Using that as a point of reference the RX 480 and 980 look to trade blows with the RX 480 winning some benchmarks and the 980 winning others (At least looking through the Guru3d review) and while the 1060 looks to perform better than the 980 the difference is minor. For a worth wild upgrade I'd get a 1070 or depending on your budget maybe wait for the 1080ti to drop and either get that or see if it affects 1080 prices. Otherwise, if you just want to move away from SLI get the RX 480/1060 depending on what kind of deal you can find.
Click to expand...

Ugh so 980 and 480 get me a side grade. Sounds like wait for 1080ti.
 
Rbk_3

Rbk_3

Member
anaron said:
Thanks so much for the response! this stuff is so stressful for me, I want to make sure it's pcgaf approved. lol

I should add that if you picked the parts for me or whatever to be assembled by NCIX I would be fine with "building a PC" that way. I truly have no idea what to look for. :p

generally I also like to get the warranty for these kind of purchases so ideally I'd like to spend 1200 total


https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Nq8gZ8

That one is a million times better than the one you linked to
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