• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

Status
Not open for further replies.
In today's news of trying to fix my cooling issue with my new built.



It's a shitty pic quality but I believe I bent the pins when I removed the cpu to clean off the thermal and putting the cooler back on again.

The ASRock Z170 Extreme7+ mobo, which is the picture in question, was throwing me a "Dr.Debug" code on the board, 55. "The memory could not be detected. Please re-install the memory and CPU. If the problem still exist, please install only one memory module or other memory modules."

I had taken out the cooler and CPU, which was the only parts I had touched when I saw that irregularity that I took a picture of. Re-seated the CPU, put back the cooler, same code again.

:(
Hard to tell from this angle but you should be able to carefully bend it back.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
In today's news of trying to fix my cooling issue with my new built.



It's a shitty pic quality but I believe I bent the pins when I removed the cpu to clean off the thermal and putting the cooler back on again.

The ASRock Z170 Extreme7+ mobo, which is the picture in question, was throwing me a "Dr.Debug" code on the board, 55. "The memory could not be detected. Please re-install the memory and CPU. If the problem still exist, please install only one memory module or other memory modules."

I had taken out the cooler and CPU, which was the only parts I had touched when I saw that irregularity that I took a picture of. Re-seated the CPU, put back the cooler, same code again.

:(

get a pair of super small tweezers and bend it back.
 

Amagon

Member
Hard to tell from this angle but you should be able to carefully bend it back.

get a pair of super small tweezers and bend it back.

I had bent it to what it looks like the way it should be via a needle that I have scavenge. I hadn't put back my pc together. Waiting for the weekend, when I have a second pair of eyes to look over it.

Is it a possibility that I can RMA the mobo to ASRock? I had bought it this past Sept but hadn't used it til now.
 

Arex

Member
True, it is an expensive case but it's made out of aircraft grade aluminum IIRC, that bezel is expensive, here's a quote from his page on it's construction:

"The chassis interior is constructed of aluminum and is anodized jet-black. The exterior cover panels are constructed from thick aluminum and are powdercoated with a matte black textured finish (cast iron black). The wrap-around bezel is constructed from 5mm thick aluminum and is brushed and anodized jet black. All aluminum is utra-premium, as quality is incredibly important to me. The removable fan bracket and duo SSD bracket are constructed from steel and powdercoated black."

Powedercoats are super-durable but almost completely scratch resistant. Plus all of the S4 Mini's are numbered since they are preordered and low-volume, so I'd say they're a premium case and not a mass production case. Here's why I decided on it though (quote from http://nfc-systems.com/s4-mini/)

"Coolers 40mm in height are more than enough for 35w Skylake i7s, and with ample room for next gen 8" cards, 4k gaming in a box the size of a ream of paper is a reality. "

Being able to take my PC wherever I go it a HUUUGE plus, so 4K gaming while travelling is the really big selling point for me on this case.

It's definitely better than the monstrosity of that 21" Acer Predator laptop haha XD

Oh well we'll see how it goes. I still have time to see how Ryzen performs and priced too I suppose, the multicores would be good for my work. Definitely going for the small form factor though, can't believe how much more they can cram in into a miniITX mobo now compared to my old X99 one haha
 

Finaika

Member
What a beauty this card is

2LIBgVJ.jpg

That's a beast CPU cooler.
 

Bloodember

Member
I had bent it to what it looks like the way it should be via a needle that I have scavenge. I hadn't put back my pc together. Waiting for the weekend, when I have a second pair of eyes to look over it.

Is it a possibility that I can RMA the mobo to ASRock? I had bought it this past Sept but hadn't used it til now.
Bent pins are not covered for RMA.
 

BossRush

Member
How much should I aim to spend if I want to get a good gaming pc that will last me for a good bit without upgrades?

Or conversely, if I want to make a good gaming pc for now with the intent of upgrading later, what's the bare minimum I should spend?
 
So I picked up a Hyper x Cloud II headset from GAF's recommendation in various headset threads, but I'm a bit underwhelmed by the sound. It sounds too light and almost tinny for my liking. Is there something to make the sound a bit heavier?

Also, I do have a set of HD558s as well that I used to use, but wanted to try something with a built in mic.
 
This will save me some cash on my build i am working on assuming it goes through.

I have all my parts except my Motherboard, case and CPU cooler for my i7600k. There are so many goddamn cases and motherboards i can't choose. I want a case big enough for my ham fist to move around in.

you can look at the Fractal Design Define R5 cases
 

L.O.R.D

Member
12ms, 4ms (GTG)

The 12ms is the response time black white black and the 4ms is the response time grey to grey, I believe.
Thanks,all monitors have two response time?
i am guessing White to black is better then grey to grey?

Other monitors only says 5ms,but doesn't say anything.
 

Bloodember

Member
Thanks,all monitors have two response time?
i am guessing White to black is better then grey to grey?

Other monitors only says 5ms,but doesn't say anything.

There isn't a standard of how companies check response time, every company does it differently. If you want a better understanding of what a monitor's response time is you'll need to look up reviews that actually check for that.

As for when they only show one it normally means grey to grey response time, but no one really knows for sure since there is no standard procedure.
 

L.O.R.D

Member
There isn't a standard of how companies check response time, every company does it differently. If you want a better understanding of what a monitor's response time is you'll need to look up reviews that actually check for that.

As for when they only show one it normally means grey to grey response time, but no one really knows for sure since there is no standard procedure.
Strange no I be mention White to black response time.
I saw this LG 24MP88HV,i really love it,however i saw many reviews for it about not very stable,very wobbly and that will annoy me because i am going to hook my PS4 and PS3 on the same desktop i am using.
 

moniker

Member
Is there any definite word on the release date for 7600K/7700K? I have all other components here ready to go (including a Vive!) and don't really feel like waiting.
 
Need recommendations for monitor arms.

I have 2x Dell U2412M 24" monitors that I'd like to put on monitor arms and be able to move them left, right, up, down, portrait<->landscape, etc., independent of each other.
So as much of a movement freedom as possible.

Thoughts? Recommendations? Thanks.
 
Bent the pins on my motherboard's CPU socket like an idiot so I'm gonna have to basically rebuild my PC which should be fun. If I bought the same model motherboard it should just work right? I don't need to mess about with Windows?
 
Question for you PC GAF: I've been using an old Xeon W3680 and am considering building a new PC, I game at 1080p and I'm still able to run stuff like Forza Apex at ultra and 60fps. I just want to get an idea how much of a bottleneck my CPU is (running a 1060 6gb), and whether it's worth investing in a new build yet? I'm still able to get decent performance so I'm in two minds whether to go out and spend a wad of cash on an upgrade. If I do go for a new build, I'd be looking at an i5 6600k. All in, I'm looking at about £600, seeing as I don't plan on swapping the 1060 just yet.

Thanks in advance!
 

Flandy

Member
I've used up my two Sata 3 Ports on my motherboard.
How big of a hit am I taking on games if I use a SSD on a Sata 2 port?
 

moniker

Member
They are already trickling into stores, just keep a look out.

Thanks, maybe I'll wait a few days. I'm in Sweden though and there's little indication from the online stores that they're coming soon. The Swedish reviewers seem to have gotten them at the same time as the US though, so who knows.

The jump from Skylake seems to be very small so it might not be worth the wait for me.
 
I'm really tempted to build my next PC as small-form now after having looked at that S4 Mini, looks so convenient.
Dude, Email Josh! He can help you figure out if you really need an NFC S4-mini. You can fill out the form here http://nfc-systems.com/contact/ or just email him at his email listed there. He's great with answering questions for customers, especially at figuring out if the S4-mini is a right fit for you.

Also there's a nice in-depth review of the S4-mini here. And don't forget Josh's youtube channel where he posts updates on S4-mini stock and it's capabilities.
 

Javaman

Member
Son flipped the power off on his surge protector with his foot and now his computer won't fire up. Power on the computer case shows it's on and fans are running but the keyboard that usually lights up doesn't and there is no signal to the monitors. The light where the Ethernet cord hooks into the motherboard comes on.

Any thoughts on what the culprit is? There is 2 sticks of 4 gb RAM and a 970 video card hooked into the mobo.

Turn the power supply on the back of the computer off for a min or two then try again.
 

Lom1lo

Member
So I picked up a Hyper x Cloud II headset from GAF's recommendation in various headset threads, but I'm a bit underwhelmed by the sound. It sounds too light and almost tinny for my liking. Is there something to make the sound a bit heavier?

Also, I do have a set of HD558s as well that I used to use, but wanted to try something with a built in mic.

I use my HD558 as a headset. You can modify them.
 

L.O.R.D

Member
anyone has this monitor or used it?
LG 24MP88HM

i want to know how weggly it get when you type on a keyboard in the same table of the monitor.
 
Bent the pins on my motherboard's CPU socket like an idiot so I'm gonna have to basically rebuild my PC which should be fun. If I bought the same model motherboard it should just work right? I don't need to mess about with Windows?

Your OS is stored on your harddrive/ssd, so yeah, swapping the motherboard should be fine.
 

L.O.R.D

Member
wh-what..?

sorry,i don't know what the exact word should i use
if you make your hand on the screen and push it a little or slapped your hand on the desk near the screen,how much the screen will react to that?
better word, how much the screen will shake?
 

23qwerty

Member
sorry,i don't know what the exact word should i use
if you make your hand on the screen and push it a little or slapped your hand on the desk near the screen,how much the screen will react to that?
better word, how much the screen will shake?

Depends on the desk I guess? I've never heard of or seen a monitor shake any noticeable amount from typing
 

Lethal

Neo Member
So my local stores here in HK will have 7700k stock tomorrow. Im gonna run in and pick one up with some fast ram and a z270 mono. But which mobo should I buy? Im looking to spend around 200 to 250 usd
 
So my local stores here in HK will have 7700k stock tomorrow. Im gonna run in and pick one up with some fast ram and a z270 mono. But which mobo should I buy? Im looking to spend around 200 to 250 usd
Are you going to do SLi? Do you care for RGB? Are you planning to swap out your case for something smaller? Do you need more expansion slots on your motherboard? Or do you already know which form factor you want, ATX, Micro-ATX, Mini-ITX?
 
I am hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I have been experiencing with my wireless adapter under Windows 10.

Every so often the adapter will lose internet connectivity and show a yellow exclamation mark icon in the bottom right on the wireless internet access icon. Unplugging it and plugging it back in does not restore the connection. I have to restart the PC.

And intermittently (when the disconnect has happened and I restart) the PC sits there for about 5 minutes before shutting down with a very quick blue screen error message about power state failure.

No other USB devices disconnect as I was worrying that the motherboard could be playing up. This is now the 2nd adapter to do this. I have set both the adapter's power management to not switch off but it still happens.

The driver is up-to-date but it is not actually signed as Windows 10 compatible on the box but does work fine when it is connected.

Edit: As a type this I have read that problematic drivers are the cause of these blue screens.

So I guess my next question is how many of you are using wifi adapters that are not actually signed as Win 10 compatible but don't get any issues?
 

DBT85

Member
Finally got an Aquaero 5 LT in my machine so now my rad fans don't go mad when the CPU has just peaked at 100% for 3 seconds. Much nicer. All controlled by the temp of the water now.
 

Lethal

Neo Member
Are you going to do SLi? Do you care for RGB? Are you planning to swap out your case for something smaller? Do you need more expansion slots on your motherboard? Or do you already know which form factor you want, ATX, Micro-ATX, Mini-ITX?

ATX, single 1080, same case, dont need more slots. RGB would be nice, but not necessary. Preferably black, black/red

Of course I want the usual stuff. usb 3.1/type C, NVMe, solid caps etc. I expect all new z270 boards will have this stuff though
 
Pardon the dumb question, but I'm planning on building a new PC and this is my first time getting an SSD.

Is the idea to get an SSD for your OS / system, and then get an HDD for everything else? Both internal? Mix of both?
 
Pardon the dumb question, but I'm planning on building a new PC and this is my first time getting an SSD.

Is the idea to get an SSD for your OS / system, and then get an HDD for everything else? Both internal? Mix of both?

I'd just get a single large SSD, personally. If your budget allows it. I've had a 1TB 850 evo for a while and it's been awesome not worrying about it.
 
Pardon the dumb question, but I'm planning on building a new PC and this is my first time getting an SSD.

Is the idea to get an SSD for your OS / system, and then get an HDD for everything else? Both internal? Mix of both?

Matter of personal preference really.

For sheer, bulk storage, you have an HDD. An SSD should be used at least for your OS, but if it's large enough or you're willing to micro-manage your storage a bit, you can use it to shave the loading time off large and/or demanding games.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom