drhankmccoyphd
Member
awesome thank you!
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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awesome thank you!
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Damn, hooked up the connectors and system won't boot. It's definitely the molex's too bc the system boots with them disconnected. Not sure what to do from here.
EVA UNIT 01
Member
i find myself wanting a new case but feel iffy on transplanting my parts into a new one.
its my first build and will be my first time doing a case swap.
just a noobs lingering fears that ill destroy a component i suppose
its my first build and will be my first time doing a case swap.
just a noobs lingering fears that ill destroy a component i suppose
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Well, I've sent the last three hours trouble shooting my new video card. I bought a used EVGA 970GTX SSC edition to SLi with existing SSC 970. I put in both cards, PC wont' even power on. I test each one individually. Old 970 works fine. New one, alone in the system, same issue, I put all the same power cables, same PCIE slot, PC will not boot up. Swap in the old card, boots up no problem. I reset CMOS, same issue. I tried checking UEFI + Legacy in motherboard, enabling/disabling secure boot settings in bios. Nothing works. Reseated new GPU multiple times. Fucker simply refuses to work. If anyone here has any ideas I'm all ears.
For reference here are my specs:
i5 4690k @ stock
MSI z87 mobo
8GB RAM
EVGA 970 GTX SSC (x2)
Corsair TX750M
For reference here are my specs:
i5 4690k @ stock
MSI z87 mobo
8GB RAM
EVGA 970 GTX SSC (x2)
Corsair TX750M
opticalmace
Member
Sounds like the new card is broken. Try the new card alone in different PCIE slots, just in case. Return to seller?
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
I had that feeling too but there's nothing to worry about. It should be a lot quicker than building from scratch. You dont need to remove all the cables from the psu or remove the RAM/cpu/cooler (unless it's an AIO). Just take your gpu out, remove all cables, take out psu then remove motherboard and storage drives/fans.
If you have a water cooled set up then yeah...that's different.
Go for it. I'm on my 4th case, 3rd build. Can't imagine being stuck with the same case forever.
Rubbish King
The gift that keeps on giving
Alright GAF I need help selecting a new GPU, my PC is getting on a little but I haven't got the funds for a new rig just yet.
Currently my specs are(from what I can remember without opening her up or restarting because I've got a load of work open atm
MOBO: an AsusRock Z4..maybe
Chip: i5 2500K
Ram: Corsair Vengance 8gb
GPU: Nvidia GeForce 560ti
SSD: SansDisk Something or other 250Gb I think
Case: Zalman Z9
I have £200 to spend (I'd rather £150, but 200 is the maximum), the reason I want it is to upgrade my gaming performance, because the latest games I have to run on low, no frame rate issues just yet.
Suggestions?
Currently my specs are(from what I can remember without opening her up or restarting because I've got a load of work open atm
MOBO: an AsusRock Z4..maybe
Chip: i5 2500K
Ram: Corsair Vengance 8gb
GPU: Nvidia GeForce 560ti
SSD: SansDisk Something or other 250Gb I think
Case: Zalman Z9
I have £200 to spend (I'd rather £150, but 200 is the maximum), the reason I want it is to upgrade my gaming performance, because the latest games I have to run on low, no frame rate issues just yet.
Suggestions?
Deaf Spacker
Memb
How common is it for RAM to die or a RAM slot to die?
I have an Asus X99-A II motherboard with 16GB Corsair Vengeance 2666MHz RAM, there's no video signal when I power the system on and the motherboard's MemOkay LED stays on, I've not physically touched any components and it was working fine the previous night so it's not as if anything hasn't been seated properly.
It was bought pre-built because of my disability so the company has shipped a new motherboard and processor to me so that they can be fitted but I'm pissed off because I haven't had the system for that long.
I have an Asus X99-A II motherboard with 16GB Corsair Vengeance 2666MHz RAM, there's no video signal when I power the system on and the motherboard's MemOkay LED stays on, I've not physically touched any components and it was working fine the previous night so it's not as if anything hasn't been seated properly.
It was bought pre-built because of my disability so the company has shipped a new motherboard and processor to me so that they can be fitted but I'm pissed off because I haven't had the system for that long.
Try this
Once the MemOK LED is lit
Press and hold the MemOK button for a second or 2
The LED should start to blink and then automatically reboot
If the PC still fails to boot then its most likely the RAM is the issue.
You can try to swap the RAM to different slots and use a single stick of RAM to isolate the problem.
How often this happens - not so often, but generally failures either happen quite early in their life (manufacturing defect), or very late in their life (wear and tear).
Deaf Spacker
Memb
I have tried holding the MemOkay button for several seconds but the system does not reboot, could it be a motherboard issue?
The mobo manual says hold till it starts blinking, then the memory tuning will begin, after which it will reboot.
Keep holding it till it starts blinking, let us know if that doesnt even happen though.
I really doubt its the board, as i said, quick test is just swap the ram into other slots, and only test with individual ram sticks. Its likely only 1 of them is dead.
There is also 4 diagnostic LEDs between the RAM slot and the 24pin ATX power cable, one of them should read DRAM_LED - is this lit red?
Your board also has a Digital Readout at the bottom left, should read 2 alphanumeric characters, what is the code it reads out?
Deaf Spacker
Memb
The error code on the debug LED is 00, I'll fire it up now to check the other LED statuses.
Okay I've just checked, the MemOkay LED isn't lit up but the DRAM_LED is, holding down the MemOkay button has no effect. Unfortunately I can't swap out the RAM due to my disability, that will have to wait for the engineer.
Here's a photo of the LED, I'm on mobile and the formatting is playing silly buggers: https://goo.gl/photos/4eeiiYdGo7oJMeMZ9
Apparently the 00 code indicates that there is a problem with the CPU, which is why the memory LED is alight.
The manual says the code 00 is not used so thats odd.
When booting the system does the code go through some iterations? Or is it always on 00 from power button press?
Deaf Spacker
Memb
It is always 00, when the system was working fine it would go through various codes.
I questioned the 00 code with the company who built it and they said that it means that the processor isn't powering on, it's a 6800K running at 4.2Ghz under a H100i V2.
You may be skirting the power requirements of 970 SLI.
I run my 2500k/980ti off a 550W EVGA g2. I don't have a watt meter but I'm probably pushing it myself with my OC.
Is there an obvious go to motherboard for the 7700k? I'm leaning towards the ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E
Also is it worth getting 3200 ram? I use statistical software that benefits from plenty of fast ram but I've seen some reports about motherboards not supporting that high speed. Also why can't I just buy cheaper ram and OC to 3200 if the motherboard supports it?
Also is it worth getting 3200 ram? I use statistical software that benefits from plenty of fast ram but I've seen some reports about motherboards not supporting that high speed. Also why can't I just buy cheaper ram and OC to 3200 if the motherboard supports it?
Wouldnt trust what they say, the manual specifically says 00 isnt used so not sure where they are getting their information from - or they are just trying to sound reassuring, but this seems like anything from CPU/Mobo/RAM. Im thinking Mobo.
Deaf Spacker
Memb
Yeah well they are calling me tomorrow to arrange for the engineer to come and have a look, plus they've already sent me a replacement motherboard and processor for the engineer to fit. I'm not paying as it's wel within warranty so it will be sorted one way or another.
From Googling there seems to be quite a few posts about Asus boards and the 00 code.
Lux R7
Member
there is a used 970 on amazon.uk for 202,00. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NOP536Y/
there is also a new 960 for 195,00. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00SKWIISQ/
Radeon 470 4gbfor 196,00 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01JM2DFLC/
EVA UNIT 01
Member
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T4BWUUY/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Anyone got any impressions of this case?
Its the one im planning on implanting my current build into
Anyone got any impressions of this case?
Its the one im planning on implanting my current build into
Xathos
Neo Member
I'm looking at upgrading my video card I have a pretty old setup. My current card is a 5850.. I was curious would it be better to get a 470 8GB for the added Vram? Or 480 4GB for the clock speed.. I've heard a lot of games these days max out the 4GB vram already, so in the future you will most likely need more. I can't really afford 480 8GB or that would be as easy choice. Any suggestions?
470s are beasts and pretty much keep up with 480s. Check reddit for used deals, I got a 980TI for $300.
https://www.reddit.com/r/hardwareswap/
lostsupper
Banned
Check Asus product spec or support page for that board. Stop reading dumb shit on the internet.
Yes, it's a sticker.
Thanks, will buy then.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Paul's Hardware has a 40 minute video going over all the ASUS z270 boards. I'd recommend checking that out.
I am typing on the computer with the 2 bent pins that I had straighten out yesterday and seeing a steady temps of 24-30C idle with the H100i.
I had use the Corsair Link to set the fans on the cooler to Silent mode and disconnected the cable, so it won't give me any issues which seems to be the case. Unless their is another method on how to go abouts, let me know.
On an unrelated matter, my other computer that I had been using, it won't let me shutdown when I go to Start or on the Task Manager. I am able to click on Shut Down, but nothing happens. Any ideas?
Ninja Edit:
This ASRock mobo has 2 ethernet ports, which I'm currently using one right now. Whats the benefit of having 2 and should I take advantage off of it?
I think there is some way to fix the Windows MBR through Linux so you can probably try to search for it. You would only need a usb to boot a live version of a Linux distro and type some commands in the terminal most probably.
Did you try just kicking off a repair from the USB installer?
I'm looking at the Asus Z170I Pro Gaming motherboard for a mITX case. I want to get a Kaby Lake CPU, but it looks like the only way this would work is if I first install a Skylake CPU in order to update the bios, otherwise it won't recognize the Kaby Lake CPU. Do I just need to wait until motherboards are out that support Kaby Lake out-of-the-box, or are there some out now that I don't know of?
They're starting to trickle onto the market now:
http://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#c=119&f=8
I wasn't sure, as I hadn't looked for Z270 boards previously (and then certainly wasn't ever looking mITX).
EDIT: Changed my link from CDN part picker to US..
I've been researching video cards for a while tonight. I've been wanting an upgrade for a while now and was hoping to see either a new Nvidia or ATI announcement from CES but that obviously didn't happen.
I'm tired of waiting. It's been numerous months. So, I'm deciding just to get one now and am going with a 1080.
My question is:
Between the Gigabyte GTX 1080 G1 Gaming - http://a.co/4CpNS44 (Amazon short link)
and the
Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Edition - http://a.co/j78Jr5I (Amazon short link)
which would you pick and why?
The card, whichever it is, would replace my EVGA GTX 770 4GB with a reference blower design.
My initial thoughts (don't let these sway whatever your personal thoughts are, I'd like to hear them without influence) are: I see that they both have the idle fan state at low temps and performance seems to be roughly the same. The only differences I really saw was that the Gigabyte looks to run a bit cooler under load, has ever so slightly higher clock speeds out of the box, and only requires one 8 pin connector instead of two for the Zotac. Those things alone make me lean more towards the Gigabyte for now.
But is there something about Gigabyte that would sway me away from them? Bad customer service? Cheap parts? Fans breaking early? The looks don't matter since I don't have a viewing window on my case (Fractal R4).
It would be paired with my existing hardware:
i7-6700K @4GHz (4.2GHz boost on all cores)
32GB DDR4-2666 RAM
750W Seasonic PSU
Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 motherboard
I'm tired of waiting. It's been numerous months. So, I'm deciding just to get one now and am going with a 1080.
My question is:
Between the Gigabyte GTX 1080 G1 Gaming - http://a.co/4CpNS44 (Amazon short link)
and the
Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Edition - http://a.co/j78Jr5I (Amazon short link)
which would you pick and why?
The card, whichever it is, would replace my EVGA GTX 770 4GB with a reference blower design.
My initial thoughts (don't let these sway whatever your personal thoughts are, I'd like to hear them without influence) are: I see that they both have the idle fan state at low temps and performance seems to be roughly the same. The only differences I really saw was that the Gigabyte looks to run a bit cooler under load, has ever so slightly higher clock speeds out of the box, and only requires one 8 pin connector instead of two for the Zotac. Those things alone make me lean more towards the Gigabyte for now.
But is there something about Gigabyte that would sway me away from them? Bad customer service? Cheap parts? Fans breaking early? The looks don't matter since I don't have a viewing window on my case (Fractal R4).
It would be paired with my existing hardware:
i7-6700K @4GHz (4.2GHz boost on all cores)
32GB DDR4-2666 RAM
750W Seasonic PSU
Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 motherboard
Nostremitus
Member
So... Is Ryzen still Q1?
For what it's worth my 1080 gigabyte G1 (overclocked) is working without issue 6~ months on without issue.
Garuda1One
Member
Guys, any recommendation for wireless gaming mouse ?
is logitech G900 a good buy ?
is logitech G900 a good buy ?
Goldrusher
Member
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Onlinehero
Member
Current specs:
1080
4570k
Some crap RAM.
144hz 1080p monitor
I should upgrade my CPU, motherboard and RAM soon. This will enable me to fit my old 750ti as a dedicated PhysX card. Now I know this is not a good idea 95%+ of the time... question is, is it a bad idea? Does it cause any trouble that I should know about?
1080
4570k
Some crap RAM.
144hz 1080p monitor
I should upgrade my CPU, motherboard and RAM soon. This will enable me to fit my old 750ti as a dedicated PhysX card. Now I know this is not a good idea 95%+ of the time... question is, is it a bad idea? Does it cause any trouble that I should know about?
opticalmace
Member
Well, it's bad in the sense that you're wasting money on basically nothing. What's your current GPU?
Welp, looks like the Asus one won't be out till later in the month.
Amazon/Best Buy have the G602 for $40. G900 is good if it's in your budget.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4MQODC/?tag=neogaf0e-20
cleveridea
Member
So I am thinking of getting BL3200PT 32 inch 1440p monitor for my Titan X (non pascal) system. End goal is 1080 Ti and 4K gsync but I would rather wait for the HDR sets coming out before spending a lot of money and getting gsync.
I see input lag is 76 ms, is that going to be a problem as someone that likes playing RPG's like Witcher 3, Mass Effect and skyrim type games?
I see input lag is 76 ms, is that going to be a problem as someone that likes playing RPG's like Witcher 3, Mass Effect and skyrim type games?
76ms is atrocious and will probably be noticeable in everything.
TFTcentral isn't showing anything close to 76 ms its showing 23: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/benq_bl3200pt.htm
So they have it under class 2:
Class 2) A lag of 16 - 32ms / One to two frames - moderate lag but should be fine for many gamers. Caution advised for serious gaming and FPS
Hey folks !
Im thinking about upgrading my current monitor to a 144Hz and 1440p display so i can game like a champ hanzo pro you know so I searchd all the interwebs for a good display and came up with the following:
Acer Predator XB271HUAbmiprz (TN pannel) for 599,00 €
And:
Asus ROG Swift PG278QR for 665,00 €
Both are TN Pannels as they are cheaper and give me lower latency for my mlg sniping skillz but on a serius note im confidant that a tn pannel is the right option for me.
As I cant find any reviews of the Acer model as a tn only for the ips one any of you mlg snipers out there got a good source or recommendations?
Which one would you choose?
Thanks in advance
Hanzo main out !
Im thinking about upgrading my current monitor to a 144Hz and 1440p display so i can game like a champ hanzo pro you know so I searchd all the interwebs for a good display and came up with the following:
Acer Predator XB271HUAbmiprz (TN pannel) for 599,00 €
And:
Asus ROG Swift PG278QR for 665,00 €
Both are TN Pannels as they are cheaper and give me lower latency for my mlg sniping skillz but on a serius note im confidant that a tn pannel is the right option for me.
As I cant find any reviews of the Acer model as a tn only for the ips one any of you mlg snipers out there got a good source or recommendations?
Which one would you choose?
Thanks in advance
Hanzo main out !
cleveridea
Member
oh ok cool thanks for the advice, yeah I mean I dont play 60 fps MP shooters or fighting games so that would be fine. Especially since at some point I want to get a 4K GSync HDR monitor.
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