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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Heyo, I've got a new GTX 1060 paired with my old i5-2400 (correct, not a 2500/K), and I can't seem to hit a constant 60 in almost anything I play. Does this seem accurate? I tend to play multiplayer shooters like Battlefield 1 and Overwatch on low since I'm aiming for a high framerate over fidelity, but I have a hard time understanding- is the 2400 insufficient even on the lowest fidelity settings?
 

jonno394

Member
Heyo, I've got a new GTX 1060 paired with my old i5-2400 (correct, not a 2500/K), and I can't seem to hit a constant 60 in almost anything I play. Does this seem accurate? I tend to play multiplayer shooters like Battlefield 1 and Overwatch on low since I'm aiming for a high framerate over fidelity, but I have a hard time understanding- is the 2400 insufficient even on the lowest fidelity settings?

My 1060 paired with a 4670k hits 1080/60 on high or above on pretty much everything I throw at it. So i doimagine your cpu is the issue here.
 

Kabouter

Member
Thoughts on this build for gaming? (Will be at 1920*1200, at least for now. May potentially buy higher res monitor in the future)
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K
CPU fan: Noctua NH-U14S
Motherboard: MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Carbon
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2B3000C15
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Black
PSU: Corsair RM550x

Other than that. Budget is not fixed, but around the same cost as this (~€1600) is about what I would want to spend at most (reference https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/ for prices here in the Netherlands). Won't be doing much if any OCing at first, but would like to keep the option open in the future. Will be building ASAP since my current PC keeps crapping out. It's working again for now, but it'll go back to constantly crashing soon enough I'm sure. Haven't got any specific games that need to run well, but just want to be able to play pretty much everything well for a few years. CPU performance (particularly per core) is very important for strategy games, I've noticed the 4670k in my current PC has been the bottleneck in more games for me than the GPU (770 4GB)

Oh, and intend to reuse some HDDs from my current PC. One 500GB SSD, and a few mechanical drives.
 

Kildrek

Member
Your Current Specs:
i7 2600k
20gb ddr3 1600 ram
GTX 1070
1.5 tb sata
300gb sata

Budget: ~$700, USA
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p, I do the custom res to 1440p to get a little more beauty out of my games
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: TW: Warhammer, BF1, Witcher 3
Looking to reuse any parts?: video card and hard drives.
When will you build?: within a month
Will you be overclocking?: A little on the cpu, but I don't mess with my video card settings.

Essentially, I've had the same parts except for the video card and ram since 2011 and I've noticed the games getting bogged down at 1440p compared to the benchmarks I see, and I see benchmarks for the i5 7600k looking real nice, so I'm thinking it's mostly to do with my cpu and 1600 ram. I haven't built an entire system since 2011, so I'm a little out of the loop. I know I want a new case because I plan to put my gtx 970 into the old system and re-purpose it for other things.

Any help would be appreciated
 

Joco

Member
Your Current Specs:
i7 2600k
20gb ddr3 1600 ram
GTX 1070
1.5 tb sata
300gb sata

Budget: ~$700, USA
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p, I do the custom res to 1440p to get a little more beauty out of my games
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: TW: Warhammer, BF1, Witcher 3
Looking to reuse any parts?: video card and hard drives.
When will you build?: within a month
Will you be overclocking?: A little on the cpu, but I don't mess with my video card settings.

Essentially, I've had the same parts except for the video card and ram since 2011 and I've noticed the games getting bogged down at 1440p compared to the benchmarks I see, and I see benchmarks for the i5 7600k looking real nice, so I'm thinking it's mostly to do with my cpu and 1600 ram. I haven't built an entire system since 2011, so I'm a little out of the loop. I know I want a new case because I plan to put my gtx 970 into the old system and re-purpose it for other things.

Any help would be appreciated

Something like this probably. Didn't include a case as that is a lot of personal preference based on appearance and what not.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.89 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($161.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($93.99 @ Jet)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Jet)
Total: $608.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 04:08 EST-0500
 
Is there anything you guys can think of to make this build cheaper? My boyfriend needs a computer for video editing in university and we're trying to keep the cost as low as possible without sacrificing performance. This is what I've come up with so far but it's still pretty high. Keep in mind that this is in CAD (RIP) so cutting corners is even harder. :/

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/mjbtNN

I built my first and only computer back in May so any advice is appreciated.
 

Bloodember

Member
Is there anything you guys can think of to make this build cheaper? My boyfriend needs a computer for video editing in university and we're trying to keep the cost as low as possible without sacrificing performance. This is what I've come up with so far but it's still pretty high. Keep in mind that this is in CAD (RIP) so cutting corners is even harder. :/

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/mjbtNN

I built my first and only computer back in May so any advice is appreciated.
If your going to spend that kind of money get a 7000 series or at least a 6000 series processor.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thoughts on this build for gaming? (Will be at 1920*1200, at least for now. May potentially buy higher res monitor in the future)
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K
CPU fan: Noctua NH-U14S
Motherboard: MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Carbon
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2B3000C15
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Black
PSU: Corsair RM550x

Other than that. Budget is not fixed, but around the same cost as this (~€1600) is about what I would want to spend at most (reference https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/ for prices here in the Netherlands). Won't be doing much if any OCing at first, but would like to keep the option open in the future. Will be building ASAP since my current PC keeps crapping out. It's working again for now, but it'll go back to constantly crashing soon enough I'm sure. Haven't got any specific games that need to run well, but just want to be able to play pretty much everything well for a few years. CPU performance (particularly per core) is very important for strategy games, I've noticed the 4670k in my current PC has been the bottleneck in more games for me than the GPU (770 4GB)

Oh, and intend to reuse some HDDs from my current PC. One 500GB SSD, and a few mechanical drives.

Consider mATX or ITX formfactor, no real need for ATX.
 

moniker

Member
My newly built computer won't work :(

I have a MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon and when I turn it on all the fans work as expected, I see that the graphics card have power etc.

The motherboard has EZ Debug LED with three different LEDs (CPU, DRAM, VGA) that should indicate if there's anything wrong. From googling it seems like it's normal that these light up one at a time when powering on. The CPU lights up for a short moment, then DRAM for a slightly longer moment. Then nothing (VGA never lights up), and all debug LEDs are off.

The thing is, I bought a new Kaby Lake 7600K, and even though this board has support for it, I think it may need a firmware update. Could it be that it can't boot without an update? If the CPU was unsupported, shouldn't the CPU debug LED light up?

Edit: By "won't work", I mean I'm not able to get a display signal.
 

ISee

Member
Thinking about sending my good (but old) Scythe Mugen 2 CPU cooler in pension and to buy a water cooler for my 6700k. It's running now at 4.5ghz (1.32V) and ~67°C under heavy load.
I'm thinking about getting a Corsair H100i V2 240 mm.

1.) Can I expect to reach a better overclock (just for the sake of doing it, because it's not really needed) and better temperatures simultaneously? (Was looking at 4.8-4.9ghz... maybe)
2.) Are there better (or similar but cheaper) water cooling options, which are still easy to install? (Building my own PCs now for years, but never reached out to water cooling...). I'm willing to spend ~130€.
 

LilJoka

Member
The idea is that he doesn't want to spend that kind of money. :p Ideally, keeping the build under $1000 is the goal.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($306.95 @ shopRBC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($36.75 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($100.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 470 4GB Gaming X Video Card ($256.17 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $1034.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 05:41 EST-0500

Contrary to your assumptions, its cheaper to build skylake or kabylake builds over any older generation.
The 7600k is also the same price but we need z270 boards, or a skylake cpu to update a z170 boards bios to support kabylake chips.

Thinking about sending my good (but old) Scythe Mugen 2 CPU cooler in pension and to buy a water cooler for my 6700k. It's running now at 4.5ghz (1.32V) and ~67°C under heavy load.
I'm thinking about getting a Corsair H100i V2 240 mm.

1.) Can I expect to reach a better overclock (just for the sake of doing it, because it's not really needed) and better temperatures simultaneously? (Was looking at 4.8-4.9ghz... maybe)
2.) Are there better (or similar but cheaper) water cooling options, which are still easy to install? (Building my own PCs now for years, but never reached out to water cooling...). I'm willing to spend ~130€.

1) Since your temps are good, you can test the chips potential right now. We cannot answer this for you. A better cooler will just drop temps further and allow you to push more vcore safely. But if the chip hits a wall, then a better cooler wont do anything to help. You can test this on your current setup. BTW 60c seems very cold for a 6700k at 4.5ghz 1.32v - what is "heavy load"?

2) Closed loop coolers are so simple, cant get easier than them. If you want better performance and higher quality parts consider some of the EK watercooling kits.

My newly built computer won't work :(

I have a MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon and when I turn it on all the fans work as expected, I see that the graphics card have power etc.

The motherboard has EZ Debug LED with three different LEDs (CPU, DRAM, VGA) that should indicate if there's anything wrong. From googling it seems like it's normal that these light up one at a time when powering on. The CPU lights up for a short moment, then DRAM for a slightly longer moment. Then nothing (VGA never lights up), and all debug LEDs are off.

The thing is, I bought a new Kaby Lake 7600K, and even though this board has support for it, I think it may need a firmware update. Could it be that it can't boot without an update? If the CPU was unsupported, shouldn't the CPU debug LED light up?

Edit: By "won't work", I mean I'm not able to get a display signal.

Quite odd, i would expect it to show the CPU LED lit and stay lit if its not able to POST.
Have you made sure the GPU is has all its PCIE Sockets plugged in to the PSU PCIE power cables?
Made sure the display cable is connected to the GPU and NOT the motherboard outputs?
 

Ketch

Member
Something like this probably. Didn't include a case as that is a lot of personal preference based on appearance and what not.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.89 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($161.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($93.99 @ Jet)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Jet)
Total: $608.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 04:08 EST-0500


I am essentially in the same boat, but working with a $500 budget. Where would you look to skimp in this build?

I will also probably get a cheap new case as well (~$50).

Maybe something like this: (if I use my current power supply)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.89 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($85.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.97 @ Jet)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $503.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 05:56 EST-0500


Biggest downside to this is that I'd still have to use my same old hard drive.
 

moniker

Member
Quite odd, i would expect it to show the CPU LED lit and stay lit if its not able to POST.
Have you made sure the GPU is has all its PCIE Sockets plugged in to the PSU PCIE power cables?
Made sure the display cable is connected to the GPU and NOT the motherboard outputs?

Yes. There's actually a green light on the GPU that turns red if the power cables are not plugged in. I've tried the display cable in both the GPU and motherboard. I think it's a bit weird that the VGA debug LED never lights up though, since it seems like it should cycle though all three on boot.

My case don't have a speaker/buzzer so maybe the first step is to get one (I didn't know before assembling everything today) so I can hear if there's any beeps that can tell me something.
 

LilJoka

Member
Yes. There's actually a green light on the GPU that turns red if the power cables are not plugged in. I've tried the display cable in both the GPU and motherboard. I think it's a bit weird that the VGA debug LED never lights up though, since it seems like it should cycle though all three on boot.

My case don't have a speaker/buzzer so maybe the first step is to get one (I didn't know before assembling everything today) so I can hear if there's any beeps that can tell me something.

Your case may have come with a buzzer in its accessories box.

Remove the GPU and plug the display cable in the motherboard display output.

Plugging the display cable into the motherbaord output when a GPU is installed will never work.
 

moniker

Member
Your case may have come with a buzzer in its accessories box.

Remove the GPU and plug the display cable in the motherboard display output.

Plugging the display cable into the motherbaord output when a GPU is installed will never work.

Unfortunately I doesn't look like it did ... though I think I might have a super old computer around the house somewhere that maybe I can scavenge one from. I've tried plugging in the display cable into the motherboard, without the GPU, no difference.

I'm not sure what my next step is ... I don't feel like buying another CPU just to see if the problem lies there (that my CPU is unsupported with the current firmware).
 

LilJoka

Member
Unfortunately I doesn't look like it did ... though I think I might have a super old computer around the house somewhere that maybe I can scavenge one from. I've tried plugging in the display cable into the motherboard, without the GPU, no difference.

I'm not sure what my next step is ... I don't feel like buying another CPU just to see if the problem lies there (that my CPU is unsupported with the current firmware).

It is very likely that the board needs a bios update, thats what has been required in the past.
Asus forums also agreed, only their boards with bios flashback (flashing a bios without a CPU) could be updated without a skylake chip.

You could try buying a Pentium skylake chip, using it to update and then sell on ebay.
 

moniker

Member
It is very likely that the board needs a bios update, thats what has been required in the past.
Asus forums also agreed, only their boards with bios flashback (flashing a bios without a CPU) could be updated without a skylake chip.

You could try buying a Pentium skylake chip, using it to update and then sell on ebay.

Alright, thanks for the help!
 

LilJoka

Member
Won't it be easier to fit extra HDDs and what not in an ATX case?

Depends, installation is really exactly the same but usually the smaller the case the lower total drives you can fit.

Something like a Node 304 ITX can fit 4 HDDs plus an SSD or two with a full length GPU.

How many HDDs have you got?
 

skynidas

Banned
Can I get an opinion on this build? I will be using it mainly for video editing and some gaming like Forza Horizon 3, Civilization and things like that. Not looking for ultra settings..

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bDgXhq

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($145.03 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter

Total:
$1498.40
 

ISee

Member
1) Since your temps are good, you can test the chips potential right now. We cannot answer this for you. A better cooler will just drop temps further and allow you to push more vcore safely. But if the chip hits a wall, then a better cooler wont do anything to help. You can test this on your current setup. BTW 60c seems very cold for a 6700k at 4.5ghz 1.32v - what is "heavy load"?

2) Closed loop coolers are so simple, cant get easier than them. If you want better performance and higher quality parts consider some of the EK watercooling kits.

Heavy load is stressing the CPU with CPU-Z stress test, TimeSpy CPU bench in a loop or Aida64.

captureixbrr.jpg

I seem to be able to hit 4.8 @ 1.38V, but temperatures are a bit high on average (~80°C). I'd rather not test even higher voltages or clock speeds.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Pulling my hair out here. PC just stopped booting - black screen with flashing cursor. I tried hirens CD to fix the MBR which seemed to be the most likely issue, but I can't get miniXP to load or any of the dos utilities.

Then tried a windows 10 install USB drive and using 'bootrec' from the command prompt. It finds the drive with a windows install on, but fails with 'can't find element'

Any other suggestions to fix the MBR, or am I stuck doing a full install? Drive still seems ok - if I boot with a recovery disc I can browse the files ok. Just a PITA that I'd prefer to avoid if possible
 

LilJoka

Member
Heavy load is stressing the CPU with CPU-Z stress test, TimeSpy CPU bench in a loop or Aida64.



I seem to be able to hit 4.8 @ 1.38V, but temperatures are a bit high on average (~80°C). I'd rather not test even higher voltages or clock speeds.

OK - Aida64 would be the only one i consider load testing, but its in the easy category.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics

Marathon-Man:
OCCT S
Linpack (Max) (From Intel's website, not from OCCT or any other place or XTU.)
P95 28.7 S

Tough:
P95 27.9
IBT (Max)

Medium:
x264 16T
ROG Realbench

Easy:
Stockfish (Chess, BMI2 version)
XTU
Aida64 (Full Suite)

Walk in the Park:
Cinebench
Firestrike
Booting into Windows

But since you can boot it and run Aida64 - the chips is pretty good, you are therefore just cooling limited. Just ask yourself if the cost of a h115 is worth 300mhz.
 

Kabouter

Member
Depends, installation is really exactly the same but usually the smaller the case the lower total drives you can fit.

Something like a Node 304 ITX can fit 4 HDDs plus an SSD or two with a full length GPU.

How many HDDs have you got?

Three mechanical ones, and an SSD. What case should I get, and what motherboard if I was to decide to go smaller? And is the rest of the proposed build good?

Edit: Oh, also, how significant are the thermal disadvantages to a smaller case? And what about noise?
 

ISee

Member
OK - Aida64 would be the only one i consider load testing, but its in the easy category.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics

Marathon-Man:
OCCT S
Linpack (Max) (From Intel's website, not from OCCT or any other place or XTU.)
P95 28.7 S

Tough:
P95 27.9
IBT (Max)

Medium:
x264 16T
ROG Realbench

Easy:
Stockfish (Chess, BMI2 version)
XTU
Aida64 (Full Suite)

Walk in the Park:
Cinebench
Firestrike
Booting into Windows

But since you can boot it and run Aida64 - the chips is pretty good, you are therefore just cooling limited. Just ask yourself if the cost of a h115 is worth 300mhz.

Since I'm not really CPU limited in any kind of games (and hopefully not anytime soon) I guess it's a bit unreasonable... maybe I should really rethink this idea.
 

LilJoka

Member
Three mechanical ones, and an SSD. What case should I get, and what motherboard if I was to decide to go smaller? And is the rest of the proposed build good?

Rest of the build is good.
Just pick any Asus/Gigabyte/MSI board in the same price range that is mATX.

For the case there are a few options:
Fractal Design Define Mini
Fractal Design Arc Mini R2
Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV

If the HDDs are 1TB or smaller i would advice trying to sell them and buying larger drives, 3TB drives are not so expensive these days. HDD will be one of the louder components in these builds due to resonance (periodic hum noise).
 

Regginator

Member
Guys, I've been meaning to ask something regarding MSI Afterburner. Is there a way I can add some space between these OSDs? I'd love to have it like this:

FPS

GPU temp
GPU load
GPU speed

Core 1
Core 2
Core 3
Core 4

CPU avg
RAM


But now they're all below each other without any space space in between:

screenshot_2rvqzn.png
 

kennah

Member
Depends, installation is really exactly the same but usually the smaller the case the lower total drives you can fit.

Something like a Node 304 ITX can fit 4 HDDs plus an SSD or two with a full length GPU.

How many HDDs have you got?

304 fits 6 HDDS or 4 with full length GPU. It's an awesome case. Love mine.
 

tr1p1ex

Member
Heyo, I've got a new GTX 1060 paired with my old i5-2400 (correct, not a 2500/K), and I can't seem to hit a constant 60 in almost anything I play. Does this seem accurate? I tend to play multiplayer shooters like Battlefield 1 and Overwatch on low since I'm aiming for a high framerate over fidelity, but I have a hard time understanding- is the 2400 insufficient even on the lowest fidelity settings?

2400 is under the minimum specs for BF1.
 
Can I get an opinion on this Acer prebuilt?

https://newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16883101473

I'm kind of concerned it may be too good to be true.
Do you mean this one? That link is not working.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883101473&Tpk=N82E16883101473

It looks like a good deal in my opinion. For the price I would say it is hard to beat for a prebuilt since the GPU is $200 and that CPU costs $300. The Motherboard and PSU are probably cheap models, but that isn't a big concern. If you put the CPU/Motherboard at $500 then I feel like it is probably about what you'd pay for those parts individually if you built it yourself assuming you find Windows 10 for cheap.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Should be fixed now

i'm not sure if it's a good deal. not sure what $750 can get you (i'm in the uk).

but it has a locked i7 so no overclocking. usually if you get an i7 you are looking to overclock. it might be better to go for and i5-6600/7600 locked or unlocked. the RAM is 8GB 2133 which is fine but 16GB is becoming standard now and 2133 is the slowest DDR4 will run. i have 16GB at 2666 but could get up to about 3000.

also the GPU is fine for 1080p 60fps gaming but it only has 4GB instead of 8GB. 4GB is OK but even at 1080p you'll find some games can use more than that.
 

moniker

Member
This just happened to me, but with an Msi board and 7700k. Luckily I hadnt opened anything before I found out So now I'm just returning the CPU and getting a skylake, I like the board a lot.

I went ahead and bought a Z270 board instead. Everything is working fine now.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
So with a possible buyer of my 970, I'm tempted again by the EVGA variant of the 1070. Is there a way to tell if this card has the fix already for their issue? How big of a deal was that issue? I only remember hearing about it. Should I stay away from EVGA?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-su...ess-3-0-graphics-card/5450703.p?skuId=5450703

i would assume if you buy a new EVGA now it will be fine and will have any fixes applied to it. this is the affected cards:

Screen_Shot_2016_11_03_at_4.46.03_PM.png


that particular 1070 is 08G-P4-6173. what they had you do was update the BIOS and request thermal pads to install on the card.
 
Do you mean this one? That link is not working.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883101473&Tpk=N82E16883101473

It looks like a good deal in my opinion. For the price I would say it is hard to beat for a prebuilt since the GPU is $200 and that CPU costs $300. The Motherboard and PSU are probably cheap models, but that isn't a big concern. If you put the CPU/Motherboard at $500 then I feel like it is probably about what you'd pay for those parts individually if you built it yourself assuming you find Windows 10 for cheap.

Yeah I was mostly concerned about the Motherboard and PSU being cheap and unreliable. How concerned should I be realistically? How likely are they to fail?
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Yeah I was mostly concerned about the Motherboard and PSU being cheap and unreliable. How concerned should I be realistically? How likely are they to fail?

i think the motherboard should be fine especially since it won't be overclocking CPU/RAM. but i would definitely try find out what PSU it uses. i would assume it's some cheap generic brand. savings need to be made somewhere and a PSU is definitely not a part that should be cheaped out on because if that goes then likely the rest of the PC goes and if you're really unlucky your house too.
 
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