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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Yup, they are all equally "bad" at quality control. There is no controversy concerning quality control like you would read from some.
It just the way it is with HDD. You gotta love with the risk.
Speedwagon
Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel. Yabuki turned off voice chat in Mario Kart races. True artists of their time.
Seagate has failed on me 1/1. WD has failed on me 1/5. Toshiba has yet to fail me, but I only have 1 drive from them.
yeah, got any specific questions?
Inevitably, my trusty Q6600 / 750ti has bit the dust. For a while I'd been dealing with an annoying boot disk error. Figuring the problem might be a loose mechanic connection (cause why not?) I took the case apart. After cleaning out some dust and double checking the connections, I put everything back together. It booted up fine but the CPU fan made a nasty grinding noise. I saw that the fan power cord had winded through the fan gate and was being hit by the blade. While correcting that problem, the heatink was rocking back and forth in an alarmingly loose fashion. 2 of the 4 plastic tabs had completely broken from the heatsink frame.Who knows how long it had been like that? I doubt that is what caused the problem, but obviously I now had a new problem.
So in a situation like this, what's the right move? Buying a new heatsink for an 8 year old Q6600, or finally building a whole new computer?
The answer is obvious. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.89 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($174.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.97 @ Jet)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($164.99 @ Jet)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($429.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1297.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-15 20:26 EST-0500
Do we all like the MSI 270 motherboard? Seems like a dependable pick that reviewed well.
Note I have a whole black on white color theme going.
It's been years since I've bought any PC hardware that wasn't a well established bargain super hero. Any suggestions/edits?
So in a situation like this, what's the right move? Buying a new heatsink for an 8 year old Q6600, or finally building a whole new computer?
The answer is obvious. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.89 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($174.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.97 @ Jet)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($164.99 @ Jet)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($429.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1297.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-15 20:26 EST-0500
Do we all like the MSI 270 motherboard? Seems like a dependable pick that reviewed well.
Note I have a whole black on white color theme going.
It's been years since I've bought any PC hardware that wasn't a well established bargain super hero. Any suggestions/edits?
Celcius
°Temp. member
Ugh, what a rough weekend.
I was going to upgrade my parents' PC so I take my old cpu/mobo/ram (known to work obviously) and put it in their old case and connect it to their 500w antec psu. The PC starts up but the red led next to "boot device led" stays red and I get a single short beep but no video. After all kinds of troubleshooting I take the cpu/mobo/ram out of the case and try to start it on a cardboard box with the same Psu and it starts up fine. Thinking it must have been a grounding issue, I put it back in the case and then get the same POST issue again. Finally I take it back out and the 2nd time it gives the error even on the cardboard box while connected to the antec psu. I'm thinking that my motherboard just doesn't like being connected to the old power supply and/or maybe the case had a short?
The strange thing is, out of frustration at 2am I put the original cpu/mobo/ram back into the case and it all booted up with no issues like nothing ever happened lol.
Later this week I plan to try my old cpu/ram/mobo connected to a more modern psu and make sure it still boots. Just to be on the safe side too I've order a Fractal Define R5, as their old case has seen better days anyway. (even cut my hand on it
)
I was going to upgrade my parents' PC so I take my old cpu/mobo/ram (known to work obviously) and put it in their old case and connect it to their 500w antec psu. The PC starts up but the red led next to "boot device led" stays red and I get a single short beep but no video. After all kinds of troubleshooting I take the cpu/mobo/ram out of the case and try to start it on a cardboard box with the same Psu and it starts up fine. Thinking it must have been a grounding issue, I put it back in the case and then get the same POST issue again. Finally I take it back out and the 2nd time it gives the error even on the cardboard box while connected to the antec psu. I'm thinking that my motherboard just doesn't like being connected to the old power supply and/or maybe the case had a short?
The strange thing is, out of frustration at 2am I put the original cpu/mobo/ram back into the case and it all booted up with no issues like nothing ever happened lol.
Later this week I plan to try my old cpu/ram/mobo connected to a more modern psu and make sure it still boots. Just to be on the safe side too I've order a Fractal Define R5, as their old case has seen better days anyway. (even cut my hand on it
)lostsupper
Banned
74C after 2 hours of Prime95 v28.10 at 4.9GHz/1.39v with a -2 AVX offset.
I've seen some pretty jank 3D printed tools. Personally I think it's worth the $30 to buy the Rockit88. Or $60-ish for der8auer's original version (which can also be used for Broadwell-E).
Reinstalled Windows and just got the necessary drivers directly via MSI's website.
Don't know what caused my HDMI audio issues... good chance it was the RealTek drivers. Nor do I know what called the YouTube issues. But everything is running fine now.
Portal issue was because the display refresh rate was set, by default, to 59Hz (because it's a TV? Don't know). Changing it to 60Hz fixes the problem. Weird.
Extra annoying because I wasted energy on it, and the TV it's connected to now won't be its final destination. Just working with it for the sake of convenience.
PuppetMaster
Member
I basically built a very similar PC this weekend. Except with ITX components in an ITX case. But with only slightly more money that what you quoted.
Motherboard and Video card were different (Gigabyte). But otherwise basically the same specs. And I have to say you really DO NOT need a 750W PSU... I used a Silverstone 450W SFX PSU and it is running great. Use a powersupply calculator like this: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator to get into the right ball park. In my experience I find the heavier duty PSU use more electricity and creates extra heat even if you are not using all the watts.
I used a 960 EVO SSD and I am very happy with it. Ridiculously fast even compared regular SATA SSDs.
That C7 CPU cooler I was very impressed by. Its near silent which is impressive for it's size. Edit: I used the micro one not the tall one: http://www.cryorig.com/c7_us.php
I used a Gigabyte GTX 1070 Mini ITX OC 8G because I wanted a card that does not take much room in an ITX case. And I am super impressed so far. Performance is what I expected, but I was not expecting it to be so QUIET! Even under load it is quiet. It only has 1 fan so I thought maybe it would be louder than full size 1070 cards. But surprisingly it's one of the most quiet cards I have ever used. When not gaming it's basically silent.
Recently I am more about nice stable and QUIET systems. Not using every watt toward slightly more overclock.
I think the youtube issues could had been from graphics driver issues, same for portal. I think portal could run fine if ran windowed, or otherwise adjusted to 59(.94, NTSC did some wild magic to shove color on top of the existing standard) hz
hear march for 1080 ti, ??? for anything else
I used google to convert yesterday and got it was like 1200USD and took pcpartpicker and it was like 1200 without psu and chassie.
TatteredHat
Member
Cool! Thanks.
How's the overall build quality of the case in terms of sturdiness?
Was it easy to build a system into?
What kind of GPU and cooling are you using? I'm looking at probably getting a GTX1070 and I'm still deciding between closed loop water cooling for the CPU or just using air cooling, depends on how much room there is for either option.
With these specs you can probably size down your case to the Define Mini C if you want (or other mATX cases)
Pakoe
Member
Is getting a good 27" 1440p 144hz monitor with an IPS panel impossible?
I keep seeing people complaining about dead pixels, backlight bleed etc. I don't want to keep returning it, in hopes of finally hitting the lottery jackpot.
I'm currently using a TN panel 144hz monitor, so if an IPS is impossible, I can stick with TN.
I keep seeing people complaining about dead pixels, backlight bleed etc. I don't want to keep returning it, in hopes of finally hitting the lottery jackpot.
I'm currently using a TN panel 144hz monitor, so if an IPS is impossible, I can stick with TN.
OK, so this is my first build ever. I was looking for a decent machine that's just crossing the line past mediocre. Nothing super fancy, but good enough to run some good games well.
Please, any input is greatly appreciated. This is first build, I'm not highly educated in regards to anything PC. At least not anymore.
Build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rYKjqk
I'm big into Rocket League, Doom, and most multiplayer games. I want something that will allow me continue games like these on PC and slowly fade away from consoles.
Would you rate this as a decent build? Is there anything you would change?
Please, any input is greatly appreciated. This is first build, I'm not highly educated in regards to anything PC. At least not anymore.
Build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rYKjqk
I'm big into Rocket League, Doom, and most multiplayer games. I want something that will allow me continue games like these on PC and slowly fade away from consoles.
Would you rate this as a decent build? Is there anything you would change?
TatteredHat
Member
What's your budget like? If you have some money to spare, I would upgrade the CPU to a 6600K (+$40). Consider perhaps adding a second storage device as well, either a second SSD or a HDD depending on your needs. Aside from that, it looks like a nice build!
Thank you for taking the time to look at it and reply.
Originally, my budget was $900, but $750-800 was my target. Obviously it was difficult not to inch more and more toward $900.
As for the additional storage, I have a 1tb external hdd (currently hooked to my Xbox One) that I planned on using until I pick up a long term replacement.
Like I mentioned before, I don't know a lot about what I'm building and what the end result will be. All I know is the little research I've done here and there, and that it's something I've been wanting to do for a long time.
As for the 6600K, what sort of adantage do I look to get out of the upgrade from 6500K gaming wise? Is this something that would open up more in the future?
I appreciate the help so far. I'm here to learn from you guys on top of some research when I find more time to do so.
TatteredHat
Member
The main thing with getting a 6600K over a 6500 is that aside from better performance out of the box you also open up the option for overclocking your CPU. With your motherboard I don't think you can overclock right now but it's a good option for the future where you might otherwise have had to replace your entire CPU.
If you're ok with your external HDD then the 6600K is the only thing I'd change, the rest of your build is solid. It's up to you if you want to spend that extra money, obviously.
CybernatonEvolution
Member
Damn it. Seriously. I don't know if I should get a Z-97 motherboard for the ITX case that I will get, or just get an i7 7700k with the proper motherboard and DDR4 RAM; it is an upgrade I wanted to do since summer. Then again, I would be left with a full-tower build that only needs a PSU back home.
I might just get a cheap ITX Z-97 motherboard, decent monitor, peripherals and the ITX case. I will upgrade the CPU+RAM later, but I already regret not doing so before when my old motherboard died; I hate to buy outdated parts twice (it is not like I am not noticing the CPU bottleneck with the GTX 1080 on 1080p).
I might just get a cheap ITX Z-97 motherboard, decent monitor, peripherals and the ITX case. I will upgrade the CPU+RAM later, but I already regret not doing so before when my old motherboard died; I hate to buy outdated parts twice (it is not like I am not noticing the CPU bottleneck with the GTX 1080 on 1080p).
I actually have no financial issues whatsoever. I don't know why am I so cheap.
Thanks for the reply.
I feel like if I get the 6600K I'll need to get a motherboard cabable of overclocking. Then the money starts to crawl up even more lol.
Hmmm. I'll consider upgrading for sure, but I'm going to sleep on it one more night and do a little more research before I start ordering.
Easier said than done.
Thats why you don't have financial issues. Because you're cheap like me! Well, at least I try to be. Getting back into PC stuff is going to end up being an expensive hobby.
This. Avoid Seagate as I have had poor experiences with their drives failing on me as well over the years. WD has never given me issues and I hear Toshiba is equally as great.
BadAss2961
Member
Definitely this. Doom alone will eat up a third of his 240 gigs. lol
Cool.
I understand the storage being a major weak point. I figured since I'm mainly a multiplayer gamer (aside from Doom) i would kind of stick to playing 2-3 games at a time. Not having a data cap and only focusing on a couple games at a time would make deleting and installing something new not too much of a hassle for me.
It's worth mentioning the 6600 for $15 extra over 6500. 6600k can overclock to 4.5GHz, but 6600 can Turbo Boost to 3.9GHz without a Z series mobo.
So if I go with the 6600K I should change out my mobo? Is overclocking, um, a beginner friendly process?
I'm starting to wonder if I should be taking smaller steps being so new to it all.
Many board manufacturers produce system utilities that have some sort of "easy tune" option available. That's the only way I've ever overclocked -- took my 2500k up to 4.3ghz without breaking a sweat -- and while it may not be the most efficient way of doing it (manually is almost always better, I'm told), it was easy enough for a dummy like me that didn't want to risk fucking up his hardware. Your current board might already have some software like that.
I appreciate your feedback.
I think I'm going to sleep on the current build one more night then bust out the wallet.
I changed the Radeon model to the XFX GTR version, and that may be as far as I go if I stick with the 6500K, but you guys are pushing me closer and closer to the 6600K. I guess an extra $40 isn't too bad.
People shit on Seagate all the time
I bought my 1TB hybrid drive from them two and a half years ago. Flawless so far.
Shadowheart
Member
I want to compare benchmark results for different PCs, does anyone know how to compile the results into one sheet/image? Do I just do cut and paste the results shown in bars and numbers using Photoshop and color them differently? Or is there a better way to show the different results together?
Haven't bought seagate since the 7200.11 fiasco years ago.
Fast drive offered for a good price. But something went wrong in manufacturing and they had a ridiculously high failure rate. At the computer shop where I worked we had at least 30 drives have to be returned. And so many headaches from lost customer data.
Shadowheart
Member
I vaguely remember that, but I think they have since corrected the issue. But go with what you are more comfortable with.
P.S. I could swear some consoles or console editions have Seagate HDDs. If that is the case, then you have millions of HDDs out there without any news about noticeable failure rates.
Personally, I go with WD but for no other reason than that's what I happen to use for years and now I just go for them by default.
YuriLowell
Member
Just snagged an MSI ARMOR GTX 1080 from jet.com for like 485 ish after rebates.
I'm thinking I might just run it with my 2500k at 4.2ghz and wait until the next intel refresh.
I'm thinking I might just run it with my 2500k at 4.2ghz and wait until the next intel refresh.
I had my first drive failure ever last month in my NAS. It was a Seagate. Crashed so hard it was no longer being picked up as a valid disk (I.e. not even reporting as broken) by Seagate tools.
Does anyone have any experience with the Acer Predator XB241H? I'm looking to get a monitor for my 1070 and this seems like the cheapest option available to gsync.
It's only 1080p but I'm honestly fine with that. I'd rather run games at max settings at 1080p than lowering settings for 1440p.
For $400, is this a good monitor? Or am I better served getting a 1440p 144hz without gsync?
It's only 1080p but I'm honestly fine with that. I'd rather run games at max settings at 1080p than lowering settings for 1440p.
For $400, is this a good monitor? Or am I better served getting a 1440p 144hz without gsync?
Gunmonkey36
Member
I know it's bigger than 2tb but generally hgst is the lowest failure rate at least from these back blaze tests. Idk if they are biased or not but they are the only tests I ever see
CybernatonEvolution
Member
Just one last thing about the ITX build. I am restricted to the largest mITX cases because of the components that I have. The Noctua NH d-14 is obviously the reason why AND it is my main concern: is it safe to transport the mini ITX PC in my car with that yuuuge cooler installed? I plan on making the cooler face upward so that it gets supported by the motherboard if I stick with the Nh d-14. Not sure if I should get a more compact CPU cooler; I don't want to risk throttling or anything (especially the with CPU since I play on 1080p with the GTX 1080).
I guess I have to take the risk; I already have a backup motherboard and case.
I guess I have to take the risk; I already have a backup motherboard and case.
Infinite Justice
Member
Hmm the drive that died was a Seagate but it was running for 4 years.
I have had issues with WD before that and a current WD external drive is having some disk errors (but tbf i had it for 3 years running now)
Might as well try a Toshiba to switch things up lol
Whats funny is that I think the drive was a 7200.11 but i'll look back at it (maybe it was a 7200.12).
I always did this with similarly sized coolers like the thermalright silver arrow extreme SBE, never had an issue.
Nyteshade517
Member
the newer Seagate BarraCuda drives seem to at least be getting positive reviews from what I've seen on Newegg, Amazon, etc
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
A couple weeks ago I experienced a BSOD out of nowhere. I straight away assumed that it was my CPU overclock so increased the voltage slightly, by 0.05V, but it just felt so odd to me because I only bought my CPU (6700K) back in June and it was running just fine with 1.335V for months in all different kinds of games. I wasn't even running a heavy game, Rocket League, when it happened.
I noticed the other day that one of the USB ports on the front panel of my case wasn't detecting my USB flash drive so first thing I did was take the panel off and reseat the USB header on the motherboard which fixed it. The cable feels so loose inside it so I'm not surprised that it came out a little.
Is it possible that what caused the BSOD was the USB cable coming loose from the motherboard header or would Windows keep running and just be unable to detect the ports any longer?
I noticed the other day that one of the USB ports on the front panel of my case wasn't detecting my USB flash drive so first thing I did was take the panel off and reseat the USB header on the motherboard which fixed it. The cable feels so loose inside it so I'm not surprised that it came out a little.
Is it possible that what caused the BSOD was the USB cable coming loose from the motherboard header or would Windows keep running and just be unable to detect the ports any longer?
TatteredHat
Member
Hey man, pick whichever one feel will suit your needs to best. Last thing i would want is to push you over what you wanted to spend on your rig.
Shadowheart
Member
I just thought about it: are benchmark results made with Excel (or PowerPoint) to get those images of bars comparing different setups?
Unless anyone has a better suggestion, I'm going to use Excel and manually enter all the numbers... it's going to be a hassle as I always assumed there was an automatic way of showing results from different setups side by side.
Unless anyone has a better suggestion, I'm going to use Excel and manually enter all the numbers... it's going to be a hassle as I always assumed there was an automatic way of showing results from different setups side by side.
Depends what the bsod error code was, it's possible but it's more likely the OC.
What did you use to test for stability?
What is the CPU clock speed?
Are you using manual or adaptive vcore?
What LLC level?
Is the ram running over 2133mhz?
Celcius
°Temp. member
I just upgraded my cpu/mobo/ram, including my new Asus Maximus IX Hero, and I'm having a strange issue where if I insert a CD into my computer then my mouse starts skipping / lagging and then everything freezes up but I can still move my mouse around. I'm running at stock settings and just finished running 10 hours of prime 95 with no issues.
When I first got my mobo it froze in the bios upon first boot and then twice in windows with a cd inserted. I upgraded to the latest bios but now am facing the above issue. Did I get a bad mobo?
When I first got my mobo it froze in the bios upon first boot and then twice in windows with a cd inserted. I upgraded to the latest bios but now am facing the above issue. Did I get a bad mobo?
Nyteshade517
Member
just from a quick Google search it could be an issue with the chipset or SATA drivers
I'm sure there are people here who can be of a lot more help on how you'd go about updating those for your specific MB
Celcius
°Temp. member
I've just installed the latest chipset drivers from Asus' website and the issue is still happening. Someone from Asus is saying "Probably an incompatibility with the optical drive. Some older optical drives don't work well with newer chipsets and the vendors aren't making firmware updates for them anymore.."
I'm about to go to Frys and buy another dvd-burner *sigh*
fwiw my dvd drive is a Samsung SH-222BB. Any other suggestions?
edit: I just got back from Frys and bought a dvd burner by LG manufactured in Sept 2016. I inserted and ejected a cd 10 times with no issues. I guess he was right...
So... my G402 mouse is experiencing the dreaded double-click issue after a little more than a year. Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement that will actually last for more than a year? I used to have a few of the Microsoft Bluetrack mice, but they didn't last long either.
edit: Use-case is both gaming and work, but I suspect that most of the wear is from gaming...
edit: Use-case is both gaming and work, but I suspect that most of the wear is from gaming...
Nyteshade517
Member
Which burner did you buy?
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