Spent a couple of hours with PC Part Picker for my new GTX 1080 PC. It's been a while since I last made a PC, so I sort of have to relearn what options I really need. This is what I've put together so far:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($61.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($698.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1634.46
That's a couple hundred more than I had in mind, but totally do-able. Maybe I can be more efficient with what parts I choose. My current setup is pretty outdated, so I want to get something good that will last me a good long while in a duel monitor setup. Thoughts? Recommendations?
Also an R5 case.How about an SSD?
Good callAlso an R5 case.
How about an SSD?
The size is enough, though I suggest something from a stable product line of a quality brand for your system disk, and those usually cost more than 50 bucks for that size.Good call
Oh right, that wasn't even a thing last time I made a PC. You can put windows on the SSD to make the whole computer boot faster, right? A 240GB SSD for $50 should be enough for Windows 10?
The size is enough, though I suggest something from a stable product line of a quality brand for your system disk, and those usually cost more than 50 bucks for that size.
Try Micron's MX200 or Intel's 535 series for example.
Cool. Finding out what brands are reliable is one of the reasons I came to this thread.
Can't go wrong with Intel, the five-year warranty is also nice.Cool. Finding out what brands are reliable is one of the reasons I came to this thread.
Does a Z170 ITX board overclock less well than its ATX or M-ATX counterparts?
They vary that much? How do I know which board is good at OCing?Yes they usually drop about 1-200mhz peak potential. Asus ROG boards OC better in all form factors against their pro gaming series but the larger form factors OC a little more.
They vary that much? How do I know which board is good at OCing?
What's considered better than a custom loop?Thing is, 4.5Ghz in an ITX box is pushing the boundaries of cooling already, so it depends. If you have awesome cooling then the difference will be smaller. By awesome I mean custom water loop or better.
I was thinking about a tower cooler in Define Nano S, the layout of that case seems very good for airflow.Reviews. The Z170I pro gaming review on bit tech got the 6700k to 4.8ghz 1.32v but their best on ATX ROG was 4.9ghz 1.32v, 5ghz only bootable.
Usually the pro gaming ATX will be 100mhz off the ROG ATX board.
Thing is, 4.5Ghz in an ITX box is pushing the boundaries of cooling already, so it depends. If you have awesome cooling then the difference will be smaller. By awesome I mean custom water loop or better.
Asus PG279Q, Acer XB271HU.I'm thinking about buying a second monitor. A 1440p 144Hz one, preferably with G Sync as I'm using a 980ti. What's are some of the best choices I could make, best models?
I'm in Canada btw.
I was thinking about a tower cooler in Define Nano S, the layout of that case seems very good for airflow.
Is it worth upgrading my Monitor to a Freesync Widescreen monitor right now? I'm looking at a LG 34" 1440p w/ Freesync for about £300
I was thinking about a tower cooler in Define Nano S, the layout of that case seems very good for airflow.
Asus PG279Q, Acer XB271HU.
Hi guys! Good news - assembly went well. Was a bit nervous but everything is in working order. Surprisingly, my case supported the H100i V2 without any modifications, odd.
I have another question now - if anyone would be so kind as to share some information.
My motherboard is a ASUS Z170 PRO-GAMING model, and I bought some nice 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance to go with it, 32gb.
Back in 2011 I remember I had to manually input the clock times for the ram into bios - is this not a thing anymore? BIOS seems much more streamlined now, with most things set auto.
I tried to run in the XMP profile which would (I think?) max my ram at 3000mhz and my CPU to what seemed to be 4.2ghz. Unfortunately, my screen stayed black. Ram in auto runs at 21XXmhz apparently, but CPU-Z is showing DRAM frequency of a varying number, currently at 1071.2mhz.
So, what is my best course of action? Is my ram being under utilized as is?
Oh, phase change is new to me. Seems more practical than LN2.Phase change
LN2
Oh, phase change is new to me. Seems more practical than LN2.
Hi guys! Good news - assembly went well. Was a bit nervous but everything is in working order. Surprisingly, my case supported the H100i V2 without any modifications, odd.
I have another question now - if anyone would be so kind as to share some information.
My motherboard is a ASUS Z170 PRO-GAMING model, and I bought some nice 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance to go with it, 32gb.
Back in 2011 I remember I had to manually input the clock times for the ram into bios - is this not a thing anymore? BIOS seems much more streamlined now, with most things set auto.
I tried to run in the XMP profile which would (I think?) max my ram at 3000mhz and my CPU to what seemed to be 4.2ghz. Unfortunately, my screen stayed black. Ram in auto runs at 21XXmhz apparently, but CPU-Z is showing DRAM frequency of a varying number, currently at 1071.2mhz.
So, what is my best course of action? Is my ram being under utilized as is?
I'd like info on this too. Do you just select XMP in the bios? Will that mess up any CPU overclock settings I've manually put in? Also have 3000 DDR4 on an asus z170i
Managed to get a 400 increase in graphics score on fire strike ultra with my 980ti.
Damn. Why did it take me so long to OC it.
Same boat here. Just realized that my reference 980 apparently does have some OC headroom. Need to look into that pronto.
Unfortunately I don't think any were shown at computex at all. Next stop CES? Not sure if there's an other electronics show in betweenWhat's the word on HDR capable 10bit monitors? Anything hitting the market this year? My eight year old 24" 1080p BenQ is on its last legs. Dark blotches and image retention are starting to bug me. I'm really itching to jump on the 21:9 bandwagon. Or should I just buy a cheap 1080p 16:9 120hz/144hz monitor as a stop-gap? I could use that until 21:9 HDR 100Hz+ monitors hit the market, and then use it as a secondary screen.
I'm also anxiously waiting for reviews on the RX 480. My reference 7970 (with an aftermarket cooler I had installed) died on me about two months ago, so I've had to make do with the iGPU on my trusty old 2600K. I've also been wondering if I should upgrade my whole system, or if the 2600K (which I've overclocked to 4,4GHz) is still good enough. AMD's Vega is also something I'm interested about. Is it going to be released around October? I have the money to buy a GTX1080, but the price/perf on the RX480 just seems so awesome. Decisions, decisions...
Is there a reason to wait for Kaby Lake?
When is a good time to be picking up the 1070? I only see FE ones on sale where I come from. Those aren't the ones to be picking up if I am looking for value?
Is there a reason not to go for two 500 GB Samsung EVO SSDs for 136 € each in RAID0 over a 1 TB one for 280 €? There are two SSD slots in the ITX case I'm buying. 2x 500 GB is slightly cheaper and should be faster as well.
I'm selling my 970 to a friend and planning on getting a 1070 or 1080... which one do y'all think I should get?
I play at 1440p with a 144Hz monitor.
I don't play tooo demanding games, #1 that I want to play is Dirt Rally, and then GTAV. Racing games are probably my favourite (Project Cars etc.).
I'm guessing the 1070 is the more sensible option?
Thanks for the feedback. Something to think about.well, yeah. If you Raid 0 it, if one drive fails, you lose all your data.
If you have an effective backup strategy then you'll be ok. Although the chances of small, going into a mirrored raid essentially trades off risk for performance.
The thing is - for racing games framerate is absolutely king. If you are sure that your current (and future) games are going to run how you want them to run with the 1070 then go for it. I know personally that I'd be happy to spend the extra ££s on a 1080 and not worry about "what ifs"
Is there a way to check if your CPU is working as intended? I have an i5 4590.
Just wondering because recently I've been noticing micro-stutter in open world games but I don't know how much of that is due to the CPU and how much is due to the nature of open world games. It's particularly bad in AC:Unity, however.
well, yeah. If you Raid 0 it, if one drive fails, you lose all your data.
If you have an effective backup strategy then you'll be ok. Although the chances of small, going into a mirrored raid essentially trades off risk for performance.
Is there a reason not to go for two 500 GB Samsung EVO SSDs for 136 each in RAID0 over a 1 TB one for 280 ? There are two SSD slots in the ITX case I'm buying. 2x 500 GB is slightly cheaper and should be faster as well.
ITX - you might want to minimize cabling. SSDs are plenty fast already.
No other cons to RAID 0 over a single drive really. Other than twice the probability vs single drive setup of loosing your data.
Awesome, thank you I knew about afterburner and I usually use it to select settings for 60fps then turn it off, but I'll give it a proper look now.Thanks for the feedback. Something to think about.
I think it's probably fine, and Unity is just being Unity. However, I would suggest you open up MSI Afterburner, as it can take nice logs of everything. Game for a while and then check the graphs, see what your CPU and GPU usage are like, your framerate and frametimes (look for spikes), also temperatures in case something is throttling. You can see what core clock your GPU is running at and whatnot. If you hit "detach" above the graphs in Afterburner you can make them huge and check out the logs over a pretty long period of time.
Spent a couple of hours with PC Part Picker for my new GTX 1080 PC. It's been a while since I last made a PC, so I sort of have to relearn what options I really need. This is what I've put together so far:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($61.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($698.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1634.46
That's a couple hundred more than I had in mind, but totally do-able. Maybe I can be more efficient with what parts I choose. My current setup is pretty outdated, so I want to get something good that will last me a good long while in a duel monitor setup. Thoughts? Recommendations?
Is there a reason to wait for Kaby Lake?
Why bother buying a FE GTX1080? The better, cheaper cards are like what, 1-2 weeks away.