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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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luoapp

Member
Spent a couple of hours with PC Part Picker for my new GTX 1080 PC. It's been a while since I last made a PC, so I sort of have to relearn what options I really need. This is what I've put together so far:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($61.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($698.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1634.46

That's a couple hundred more than I had in mind, but totally do-able. Maybe I can be more efficient with what parts I choose. My current setup is pretty outdated, so I want to get something good that will last me a good long while in a duel monitor setup. Thoughts? Recommendations?

How about an SSD?
 
Good call


Oh right, that wasn't even a thing last time I made a PC. You can put windows on the SSD to make the whole computer boot faster, right? A 240GB SSD for $50 should be enough for Windows 10?
The size is enough, though I suggest something from a stable product line of a quality brand for your system disk, and those usually cost more than 50 bucks for that size.

Try Micron's MX200 or Intel's 535 series for example.
 

PBalfredo

Member
The size is enough, though I suggest something from a stable product line of a quality brand for your system disk, and those usually cost more than 50 bucks for that size.

Try Micron's MX200 or Intel's 535 series for example.

Cool. Finding out what brands are reliable is one of the reasons I came to this thread.
 

Keyouta

Junior Member
I'm thinking about buying a second monitor. A 1440p 144Hz one, preferably with G Sync as I'm using a 980ti. What's are some of the best choices I could make, best models?

I'm in Canada btw.
 

LilJoka

Member
They vary that much? How do I know which board is good at OCing?

Reviews. The Z170I pro gaming review on bit tech got the 6700k to 4.8ghz 1.32v but their best on ATX ROG was 4.9ghz 1.32v, 5ghz only bootable.
Usually the pro gaming ATX will be 100mhz off the ROG ATX board.

Thing is, 4.5Ghz in an ITX box is pushing the boundaries of cooling already, so it depends. If you have awesome cooling then the difference will be smaller. By awesome I mean custom water loop or better.
 

Vuze

Member
Thing is, 4.5Ghz in an ITX box is pushing the boundaries of cooling already, so it depends. If you have awesome cooling then the difference will be smaller. By awesome I mean custom water loop or better.
What's considered better than a custom loop? :eek:
 
Reviews. The Z170I pro gaming review on bit tech got the 6700k to 4.8ghz 1.32v but their best on ATX ROG was 4.9ghz 1.32v, 5ghz only bootable.
Usually the pro gaming ATX will be 100mhz off the ROG ATX board.

Thing is, 4.5Ghz in an ITX box is pushing the boundaries of cooling already, so it depends. If you have awesome cooling then the difference will be smaller. By awesome I mean custom water loop or better.
I was thinking about a tower cooler in Define Nano S, the layout of that case seems very good for airflow.
I'm thinking about buying a second monitor. A 1440p 144Hz one, preferably with G Sync as I'm using a 980ti. What's are some of the best choices I could make, best models?

I'm in Canada btw.
Asus PG279Q, Acer XB271HU.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Is it worth upgrading my Monitor to a Freesync Widescreen monitor right now? I'm looking at a LG 34" 1440p w/ Freesync for about £300

Where are you getting a freesync 34" 3440x1440 monitor for £300!?

I love my 34" UW motor but it's 60Hz only and was about £500. Early freesync monitors had a very narrow freesync window though, so the framerate flexibly might not be great. Still a great price though
 

Jijidasu

Member
Hi guys! Good news - assembly went well. Was a bit nervous but everything is in working order. Surprisingly, my case supported the H100i V2 without any modifications, odd.

I have another question now - if anyone would be so kind as to share some information.

My motherboard is a ASUS Z170 PRO-GAMING model, and I bought some nice 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance to go with it, 32gb.

Back in 2011 I remember I had to manually input the clock times for the ram into bios - is this not a thing anymore? BIOS seems much more streamlined now, with most things set auto.

I tried to run in the XMP profile which would (I think?) max my ram at 3000mhz and my CPU to what seemed to be 4.2ghz. Unfortunately, my screen stayed black. Ram in auto runs at 21XXmhz apparently, but CPU-Z is showing DRAM frequency of a varying number, currently at 1071.2mhz.

So, what is my best course of action? Is my ram being under utilized as is?
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
I was thinking about a tower cooler in Define Nano S, the layout of that case seems very good for airflow.

Asus PG279Q, Acer XB271HU.

I'm running a 6700k with an asus z170i pro in a bitfenix prodigy (so not a tiny case), with a noctua NH-U12S. I just slapped my CPU at 4.5GHz from the start without worrying about trying to squeeze a few extra MHz here or there. Runs cool and quiet. Put a 1080 in it yesterday so need to stress tes tot check temperatures now though.

Is here a good way to judge whether you need extra fans? I'm wondering if I might need one extra exhaust fan. Currently have
- 230mm bitfenix spectre front intake
- gigabyte g1 1080 pulling air in from the left side panel and venting into the case
- 140mm noctua rear fan exhaust.

I have space for a 120 fan at the top as exhaust, and I think I have a PWM splitter so I could tap it into the other rear fan control. I want some positive pressure but I don't want too much, and I want to get as much of the GPU heat out as I can. But I also want to keep things quiet. The top is fully open with a filter on so air would get out anyway..
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Hi guys! Good news - assembly went well. Was a bit nervous but everything is in working order. Surprisingly, my case supported the H100i V2 without any modifications, odd.

I have another question now - if anyone would be so kind as to share some information.

My motherboard is a ASUS Z170 PRO-GAMING model, and I bought some nice 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance to go with it, 32gb.

Back in 2011 I remember I had to manually input the clock times for the ram into bios - is this not a thing anymore? BIOS seems much more streamlined now, with most things set auto.

I tried to run in the XMP profile which would (I think?) max my ram at 3000mhz and my CPU to what seemed to be 4.2ghz. Unfortunately, my screen stayed black. Ram in auto runs at 21XXmhz apparently, but CPU-Z is showing DRAM frequency of a varying number, currently at 1071.2mhz.

So, what is my best course of action? Is my ram being under utilized as is?

I'd like info on this too. Do you just select XMP in the bios? Will that mess up any CPU overclock settings I've manually put in? Also have 3000 DDR4 on an asus z170i
 

LilJoka

Member
Oh, phase change is new to me. Seems more practical than LN2.

Still pretty hardcore though, requires similar motherboard prep like insulating the socket and stuffing the socket with dielectric grease. But once setup it will run like a normal loop rather than LN2 type maintenance.
 

LilJoka

Member
Hi guys! Good news - assembly went well. Was a bit nervous but everything is in working order. Surprisingly, my case supported the H100i V2 without any modifications, odd.

I have another question now - if anyone would be so kind as to share some information.

My motherboard is a ASUS Z170 PRO-GAMING model, and I bought some nice 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance to go with it, 32gb.

Back in 2011 I remember I had to manually input the clock times for the ram into bios - is this not a thing anymore? BIOS seems much more streamlined now, with most things set auto.

I tried to run in the XMP profile which would (I think?) max my ram at 3000mhz and my CPU to what seemed to be 4.2ghz. Unfortunately, my screen stayed black. Ram in auto runs at 21XXmhz apparently, but CPU-Z is showing DRAM frequency of a varying number, currently at 1071.2mhz.

So, what is my best course of action? Is my ram being under utilized as is?

I'd like info on this too. Do you just select XMP in the bios? Will that mess up any CPU overclock settings I've manually put in? Also have 3000 DDR4 on an asus z170i

Yes you can just select XMP.
XMP does the following:
Sets VDIMM to 1.35v
Sets VCCIO and VCCSA to around 1.15-1.2v
Sets the primary timings to the XMP spec
Sets the frequency to the XMP spec

All the above is safe, so nothing to worry about.

VCCSA and VCCIO are used to help the Intel memory controller maintain stability at the XMP frequency. They are usually over compensated to try get less than average CPUs to run the XMP ram profile.

So XMP is not garunteed to work and the settings may need to fiddling manually to get it up and running.

XMP is a brute force attempt for stability at XMP frequency. It doesn't always succeed. You can manually enter lower frequencies of looser timings or higher voltages to try get it to boot.

CPUz reads the ram speed, you double it for DDR or double data rates. 1070->2133mhz.

XMP should not touch CPU frequency. It may make the CPU OC unstable though, and a bit more tweaking maybe needed to get both the CPU and RAM OC stable together.
 

Grandi

Member
What's the word on HDR capable 10bit monitors? Anything hitting the market this year? My eight year old 24" 1080p BenQ is on its last legs. Dark blotches and image retention are starting to bug me. I'm really itching to jump on the 21:9 bandwagon. Or should I just buy a cheap 1080p 16:9 120hz/144hz monitor as a stop-gap? I could use that until 21:9 HDR 100Hz+ monitors hit the market, and then use it as a secondary screen.

I'm also anxiously waiting for reviews on the RX 480. My reference 7970 (with an aftermarket cooler I had installed) died on me about two months ago, so I've had to make do with the iGPU on my trusty old 2600K. I've also been wondering if I should upgrade my whole system, or if the 2600K (which I've overclocked to 4,4GHz) is still good enough. AMD's Vega is also something I'm interested about. Is it going to be released around October? I have the money to buy a GTX1080, but the price/perf on the RX480 just seems so awesome. Decisions, decisions...
 

Vuze

Member
What's the word on HDR capable 10bit monitors? Anything hitting the market this year? My eight year old 24" 1080p BenQ is on its last legs. Dark blotches and image retention are starting to bug me. I'm really itching to jump on the 21:9 bandwagon. Or should I just buy a cheap 1080p 16:9 120hz/144hz monitor as a stop-gap? I could use that until 21:9 HDR 100Hz+ monitors hit the market, and then use it as a secondary screen.

I'm also anxiously waiting for reviews on the RX 480. My reference 7970 (with an aftermarket cooler I had installed) died on me about two months ago, so I've had to make do with the iGPU on my trusty old 2600K. I've also been wondering if I should upgrade my whole system, or if the 2600K (which I've overclocked to 4,4GHz) is still good enough. AMD's Vega is also something I'm interested about. Is it going to be released around October? I have the money to buy a GTX1080, but the price/perf on the RX480 just seems so awesome. Decisions, decisions...
Unfortunately I don't think any were shown at computex at all. Next stop CES? Not sure if there's an other electronics show in between
 

ElyrionX

Member
When is a good time to be picking up the 1070? I only see FE ones on sale where I come from. Those aren't the ones to be picking up if I am looking for value?
 

yamo

Member
Ok I just pre-ordered an ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1070 without really knowing nothing about the different non FE 1070 cards. Hopefully it will be good! :3
 

LostDonkey

Member
So my new build is based upon 6700k @ 4.6, 16gb DDR4 @ 3000 mhz and the Asus rog strix 1080 OC model with the two boost clocks.

Have at you 1440p.
 
D

Deleted member 245925

Unconfirmed Member
Is there a reason not to go for two 500 GB Samsung EVO SSDs for 136 € each in RAID0 over a 1 TB one for 280 €? There are two SSD slots in the ITX case I'm buying. 2x 500 GB is slightly cheaper and should be faster as well.
 
I'm selling my 970 to a friend and planning on getting a 1070 or 1080... which one do y'all think I should get?

I play at 1440p with a 144Hz monitor.

I don't play tooo demanding games, #1 that I want to play is Dirt Rally, and then GTAV. Racing games are probably my favourite (Project Cars etc.).

I'm guessing the 1070 is the more sensible option?
 

Jezbollah

Member
Is there a reason not to go for two 500 GB Samsung EVO SSDs for 136 € each in RAID0 over a 1 TB one for 280 €? There are two SSD slots in the ITX case I'm buying. 2x 500 GB is slightly cheaper and should be faster as well.

well, yeah. If you Raid 0 it, if one drive fails, you lose all your data.

If you have an effective backup strategy then you'll be ok. Although the chances of small, going into a mirrored raid essentially trades off risk for performance.

I'm selling my 970 to a friend and planning on getting a 1070 or 1080... which one do y'all think I should get?

I play at 1440p with a 144Hz monitor.

I don't play tooo demanding games, #1 that I want to play is Dirt Rally, and then GTAV. Racing games are probably my favourite (Project Cars etc.).

I'm guessing the 1070 is the more sensible option?

The thing is - for racing games framerate is absolutely king. If you are sure that your current (and future) games are going to run how you want them to run with the 1070 then go for it. I know personally that I'd be happy to spend the extra ££s on a 1080 and not worry about "what ifs"
 
Is there a way to check if your CPU is working as intended? I have an i5 4590.

Just wondering because recently I've been noticing micro-stutter in open world games but I don't know how much of that is due to the CPU and how much is due to the nature of open world games. It's particularly bad in AC:Unity, however.
 
well, yeah. If you Raid 0 it, if one drive fails, you lose all your data.

If you have an effective backup strategy then you'll be ok. Although the chances of small, going into a mirrored raid essentially trades off risk for performance.



The thing is - for racing games framerate is absolutely king. If you are sure that your current (and future) games are going to run how you want them to run with the 1070 then go for it. I know personally that I'd be happy to spend the extra ££s on a 1080 and not worry about "what ifs"
Thanks for the feedback. Something to think about.

Is there a way to check if your CPU is working as intended? I have an i5 4590.

Just wondering because recently I've been noticing micro-stutter in open world games but I don't know how much of that is due to the CPU and how much is due to the nature of open world games. It's particularly bad in AC:Unity, however.

I think it's probably fine, and Unity is just being Unity. However, I would suggest you open up MSI Afterburner, as it can take nice logs of everything. Game for a while and then check the graphs, see what your CPU and GPU usage are like, your framerate and frametimes (look for spikes), also temperatures in case something is throttling. You can see what core clock your GPU is running at and whatnot. If you hit "detach" above the graphs in Afterburner you can make them huge and check out the logs over a pretty long period of time.
 
D

Deleted member 245925

Unconfirmed Member
well, yeah. If you Raid 0 it, if one drive fails, you lose all your data.

If you have an effective backup strategy then you'll be ok. Although the chances of small, going into a mirrored raid essentially trades off risk for performance.

I am of course aware of the risks of RAID0, but as far as I know failure rates of SSDs are very low compared to mechanical hard drives. Additionally, I don't have large amounts of data that has to be backed up anyways. After reading some benchmarks, the only real advantage in a RAID0 SSD setup seems to be in maximum read/write data rate, but in normal use cases they may actually be slightly slower. Interesting.
 

LilJoka

Member
Is there a reason not to go for two 500 GB Samsung EVO SSDs for 136 € each in RAID0 over a 1 TB one for 280 €? There are two SSD slots in the ITX case I'm buying. 2x 500 GB is slightly cheaper and should be faster as well.

ITX - you might want to minimize cabling. SSDs are plenty fast already.
No other cons to RAID 0 over a single drive really. Other than twice the probability vs single drive setup of loosing your data.
 
D

Deleted member 245925

Unconfirmed Member
ITX - you might want to minimize cabling. SSDs are plenty fast already.
No other cons to RAID 0 over a single drive really. Other than twice the probability vs single drive setup of loosing your data.

Yeah, I've thought about that. I'll have a look into my case to see how to best route the cables when I get it next week. If it's annoying, it's probably best to just go with a single SSD.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Something to think about.



I think it's probably fine, and Unity is just being Unity. However, I would suggest you open up MSI Afterburner, as it can take nice logs of everything. Game for a while and then check the graphs, see what your CPU and GPU usage are like, your framerate and frametimes (look for spikes), also temperatures in case something is throttling. You can see what core clock your GPU is running at and whatnot. If you hit "detach" above the graphs in Afterburner you can make them huge and check out the logs over a pretty long period of time.
Awesome, thank you :) I knew about afterburner and I usually use it to select settings for 60fps then turn it off, but I'll give it a proper look now.
 

Dries

Member
Hello GAF,

I'm gonna upgrade my i5-2500K to either a i7-6700K or a i5-6600K. I'm still deciding which CPU I'll choose. So what are the real benefits of the 6700K compared to the 6600K? As far as I can see the benefits are the inclusion of Hyperthreading and the higher clock speed (4.0 ghz). I'm finding it hard to figure out if that's worth the extra $100 though. Maybe Hyperthreading is super important for DX12 or something, I don't know because I don't follow computer tech that closely. So how much would I benefit by buying the 6700K? Budget really isn't that big of an issue, but obviously I wouldn't like to spend extra money for microscopic improvements.

Then I'll need to pick a new motherboard. The enormous amount of different motherboards is very overwhelming to someone who doesn't know all the tech stuff surrounding it. I don't know how to decide if a board is a "good choice"or not. Currently I'm leaning towards the ASUS Maximus VIII Ranger cause it's getting good reviews. I'm really not good with all the technical stuff, so can someone point out the pro's and con's of this board? I'm also open to other reccomendations.

Here's my current setup:

i5 2500K @ 3.3 Ghz + third-party cooler (TO BE UPGRADED TO SKYLAKE)
Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 - LGA1155 socket (TO BE UPGRADED TO A Z170 BOARD)
2 x 4 GB -1600 MHz - DDR3 (TO BE UPGRADED TO DDR4)
700W PSU
SSD - 128 GB Samsung EVO 840 (Maybe I'll upgrade with an SSD that'll fit in a M.2 slot)
HDD - 1 TB
GTX 980 4GB
native monitor resolution: 2560 x 1440.

Extra remarks: I'll never go SLI or CrossFire. I'm a single GPU kind of guy.
I'd like my CPU and MOBO to be as future-proof as possible, obviously
 

hitgirl

Member
Looking to upgrade my girlfriends PC vieo card so we may play Skyrim.
The motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-78LMT-S2, It's got 1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x16.
The accompanying CPU is AMD FX 6100.
What card should I grab? It has a Nvidia Geforce GT 640 in it now. Going to be playing at 1080p.
 

wheeplash

Member
Spent a couple of hours with PC Part Picker for my new GTX 1080 PC. It's been a while since I last made a PC, so I sort of have to relearn what options I really need. This is what I've put together so far:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($61.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($698.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1634.46

That's a couple hundred more than I had in mind, but totally do-able. Maybe I can be more efficient with what parts I choose. My current setup is pretty outdated, so I want to get something good that will last me a good long while in a duel monitor setup. Thoughts? Recommendations?

Why bother buying a FE GTX1080? The better, cheaper cards are like what, 1-2 weeks away.
 

Poketune

Member
Hey everyone, I just had a question I was hoping someone could help me answer. Does anybody know of any places or sites that you can sell PC parts on either Canada? I ask as I'm selling my AMD FX 8320, AM3+ motherboard and 8GB of RAM and I'd like to use the money towards my new parts. Can anyone help me out? Thank you greatly.
 
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