It looks good. Personally I'd look at the DH-15s just for future RAM considerations. You lose a fan out of the box though, but gain clearance. Of course it's not necessary for the sticks you selected. I'd also be looking at Z270 boards, but perhaps that's a price issue.
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It looks good. Personally I'd look at the DH-15s just for future RAM considerations. You lose a fan out of the box though, but gain clearance. Of course it's not necessary for the sticks you selected. I'd also be looking at Z270 boards, but perhaps that's a price issue.
Big Chungus
Member
is the 970 worth $100 canadian?
my brother is selling his, im currently using a r7 265.
my brother is selling his, im currently using a r7 265.
Nyteshade517
Member
the NH-D15 comes with a tube of thermal paste...not pre-installed or anything
Nealand Liquor
Member
You are going to love it. Just remember that swearing, "is this too much/too little thermal paste?" and thinking you are going to break something while you are installing the cpu cooler are all part of the charm.
Thanks, I'm kinda nervously excited!
K will do. Thanks I had no idea the mobo wasn't compatible with a kaby.
Originally I was messing around with your build and thinking to change the i5 to a skylake because I read the difference isn't noticable and the skylake is cheaper. Then while looking I couldn't even find a skylake with the performace and price as the one you picked. Coming from someone with my limited knowledge on pc parts this might not mean much but after a few days cramming and learning as much as I could, I was really impressed with all the parts you chose. I scoured pcpartspicker for hours and every part you picked was the best choice at the price. I really appreciate your effort in helping me.
Edit: One more question, do you think I should pony up and buy a mobo with sli support?
I know the 1060 doesn't support it but just for future proofing maybe?
I need to google what dh-15 is now lol.
Nyteshade517
Member
think he meant NH-D15s
Yes, exactly.
The DH-15 comes with 2 fans. The DH-15s comes with just 1 fan, but it's designed asymmetrically to allow for greater compatibility with taller RAM sticks. It also lets you get to the closest slots to the CPU more easily. I don't have the DH-15, but with my DH-14.. I have to remove the CPU heatsink and fans to swap RAM. It sucks.
Like I said, the RAM you chose isn't an issue, but most people tend to re-use CPU coolers several times.
DeadlyVirus
Member
Got almost all parts ordered (i7 7700k, 1070, etc), but I still can't come to a conclusion on a keyboard and mouse.
I really like the Corsair K70 (non-rgb), but I can't come to grips on paying more than $100 (even that sounds too much to me) for a keyboard.
Got the mouse I'm settling for the Razer Deathdder (goes for around $50).
Anyone have a recommendation for a mechanical keyboard? Something under $100
I really like the Corsair K70 (non-rgb), but I can't come to grips on paying more than $100 (even that sounds too much to me) for a keyboard.
Got the mouse I'm settling for the Razer Deathdder (goes for around $50).
Anyone have a recommendation for a mechanical keyboard? Something under $100
Nealand Liquor
Member
Perfect, thanks for the advice. I am going to look into it cause I'd rather not rebuy sruff a few years down the line whenever I end up upgrading.
Anyone have any suggestions for finding a Mini-ITX LGA 1155 motherboard that has a PCI-E 3.0 16x slot and supports DDR3 1600 RAM?
I've found the ASUS P8H61-I but that's about it so far. EDIT: Nevermind, I don't think this one supports overclocking...
I'm going to try to frankenstein my i5-2500K into a Fractal Design Node 304. It looks like the Noctua NH-D15S should just barely fit inside that case, if I can find a mobo that supports OCing.
Who knows, with a new GPU and a more powerful CPU cooler for greater overclocking my pc might just go another 6 years!
You didn't ask me but I wouldn't do SLI again. I get the impression that in the year 2017 it has fallen out of favor, and back in 2009 when I did it (really ancient times!) it was a pain. Not impossible, but I ran into issues with it that you don't have with one single powerful GPU.
I've found the ASUS P8H61-I but that's about it so far. EDIT: Nevermind, I don't think this one supports overclocking...
I'm going to try to frankenstein my i5-2500K into a Fractal Design Node 304. It looks like the Noctua NH-D15S should just barely fit inside that case, if I can find a mobo that supports OCing.
Who knows, with a new GPU and a more powerful CPU cooler for greater overclocking my pc might just go another 6 years!
You didn't ask me but I wouldn't do SLI again. I get the impression that in the year 2017 it has fallen out of favor, and back in 2009 when I did it (really ancient times!) it was a pain. Not impossible, but I ran into issues with it that you don't have with one single powerful GPU.
Nealand Liquor
Member
Thanks that make my decision making way easier now.
Hey are you trying to build a small form factor pc?
I was thinking of doing that instead of a mid tower. I can't put mine on the floor (hardwood) cause I have a dog and don't want to suck in hair and I'm concerned about how out of place a big pc will look in my livingroom.
If you are, what page are your specs on? I'd kinda like to look it over and get some tips if I choose to go that way.
Bloodember
Member
Then you want mini itx motherboard. That's what I built, I'll never go back to large cases or boards . I use a NZXT Manta case. If you want my specs I'll post them when I get home.
Nostremitus
Member
That OCZ should be fine, it's a Toshiba. IIRC the OCZ SSDs that were having issues were some old refurbished stock from before they were owned by Toshiba and didn't have a secure NAND supply.
Yes. I am able to salvage a few parts from my older PC, but this is what I'm considering:
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($232.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($152.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($61.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($259.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $937.59
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sWxcm8
Not finalized; I would need to run final checks on compatibility before I bought everything - like making sure the CPU cooler will indeed fit in that tiny case, all the parts together will fit in the case, etc... but at first glance it all seems like it would work. I would also wait for the price to come down a bit on the motherboard, it's really new so the price is a bit inflated, imo.
The only thing you need to add to this build is some sort of storage. I already have more storage then I will ever need or use so I didn't bother researching the best storage options.
You could slash ~$110 USD off the price if you didn't want to mess with OCing the CPU. That really comes down to how long you plan on keeping your build. If you were only going to keep it for 2-3 years it might be worth it to get the non-OC one now to save the $110 to put towards a 4K build in 3 years. Actually, you could probably go a bit cheaper than that because if you aren't going to OC you can get a slightly cheaper motherboard as well.
I also don't bother spending money on factory OCed GPUs (FTW edition, etc), just seems like a gimmick for more money considering you can do that yourself if you want to squeeze more juice out of your GPU. I did pick the SC version of that card because it gives you more room for OC due to the better cooling system, but again, if you have no interest in OCing it yourself you could save another $10.
I would also end up throwing some more RAM in there a year or two down the road, just whenever I feel I need it.
EDIT: I decided to just throw together a "No OC for me, please" build. Heresy on PC Gaf, I know.
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($220.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H270N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($61.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $792.62 USD
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mxnLjc
opticalmace
Member
For sure.
Nealand Liquor
Member
That would be great, I'd love to look over what you put together.
Yes. I am able to salvage a few parts from my older PC, but this is what I'm considering:
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($232.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($152.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($61.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($259.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $937.59
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sWxcm8
Not finalized; I would need to run final checks on compatibility before I bought everything - like making sure the CPU cooler will indeed fit in that tiny case, all the parts together will fit in the case, etc... but at first glance it all seems like it would work. I would also wait for the price to come down a bit on the motherboard, it's really new so the price is a bit inflated, imo.
The only thing you need to add to this build is some sort of storage. I already have more storage then I will ever need or use so I didn't bother researching the best storage options.
You could slash ~$110 USD off the price if you didn't want to mess with OCing the CPU. That really comes down to how long you plan on keeping your build. If you were only going to keep it for 2-3 years it might be worth it to get the non-OC one now to save the $110 to put towards a 4K build in 3 years. Actually, you could probably go a bit cheaper than that because if you aren't going to OC you can get a slightly cheaper motherboard as well.
I also don't bother spending money on factory OCed GPUs (FTW edition, etc), just seems like a gimmick for more money considering you can do that yourself if you want to squeeze more juice out of your GPU. I did pick the SC version of that card because it gives you more room for OC due to the better cooling system, but again, if you have no interest in OCing it yourself you could save another $10.
I would also end up throwing some more RAM in there a year or two down the road, just whenever I feel I need it.
EDIT: I decided to just throw together a "No OC for me, please" build. Heresy on PC Gaf, I know.
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($220.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H270N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($61.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $792.62 USD
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mxnLjc
Awesome thanks for all that info, that's super helpful. I'm looking forward to dig through both your posts for ideas and see what I can come up with.
Just curious if there is anything I should keep an eye out for heat management wise when it comes to building a small pc?
I finally received my PC-building funds. I want to start gathering parts now so when I return home in March, I can build the computer. Looking at spending $1200 ($1300 max) on this rig for gaming purposes. Hoping for it to last for a half decade or so with minimal upgrades. Basically I'd like to play most games on high settings but I won't get antsy over it (particularly down the road). Would anyone be able to assist me with a build? I've been eyeballing the $1200 build recommendation at PC Gamer, but second opinions never hurt.
I plan to recycle my monitor (I've been gaming on 1280X720 these past couple years, so I'll be ok with sticking to 1920X1080 for a while), mechanical keyboard, and gaming mouse for this build, so these do not need to be considered.
I may also bite the bullet and pick up this pre-build. Seems like a solid deal, especially with no tax in Florida via Newegg. Thoughts?
https://slickdeals.net/f/9730600-sk...sd-16gb-ddr4-win-10-pro-1499-99-free-shipping
I plan to recycle my monitor (I've been gaming on 1280X720 these past couple years, so I'll be ok with sticking to 1920X1080 for a while), mechanical keyboard, and gaming mouse for this build, so these do not need to be considered.
I may also bite the bullet and pick up this pre-build. Seems like a solid deal, especially with no tax in Florida via Newegg. Thoughts?
https://slickdeals.net/f/9730600-sk...sd-16gb-ddr4-win-10-pro-1499-99-free-shipping
Bloodember
Member
Here's my system, the price is majorly skewed, so don't go off of cost. The cost of the WD Black is majorly off, since they are sold out everywhere and now have 128MB cache. Plus the GPU is wrong, I have a blower style.
I also have a Crucial MX300 128GB SSD and a WD Blue 2TB drive also in the system.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.97 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($154.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($167.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital WD Black 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($465.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 480 8GB GTR Video Card ($259.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Manta (Black/Red) Mini ITX Desktop Case ($119.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Logitech G910 Orion Spark Wired Gaming Keyboard ($132.70 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($57.86 @ Amazon)
Total: $2097.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-03 03:25 EST-0500
Keyboard and mouse where new also, decided to try something new. I was using a Razer BlackWidow Ultimate and the Razer Naga. It took me awhile to get use to the keyboard and I still miss the extra buttons on the mouse.
Here's a picture
Chinbo37
Member
I think yes for sure. I have one and it's running games great at 1080p 144hz.
Of course it depends on what resolution u want to run it at.
ISee
Member
Prebuild seems fine on first glance. Of course there is no GTX 1080 with 'just' 6GB of Vram but that's probably just a typo. Mobo seems to be an asus z170 A (from pictures) which is absolutely fine, the cpu cooler is probably the thermaltake water 3.0 (small) with just one fan instead of the dual fan configuration, which isn't great but it will get the job done if you don't overclock to aggressively. The GPU seems to be a 1080 founders edition which I wouldn't recommend (louder, more expansive, hotter and lower stable boost clocks then typical msi, asus, evga, etc cards).
The SSD is probably nothing great if they don't even bother to say which brand. The same goes for the HDD. The RAM is probably also 'just' standard ddr4 2133 which is doable but I'd rather go for 3000+ XMP ram for a high end build like this (boosts cpu performance in CPU intensive games). The last question what PSU is in there? No idea, again probably something cheap.
To many unknown factors for my opinion, still it is a high end build.
In general, if you don't plan to use your gaming PC right away I'd wait before starting to buy stuff mainly because AMDs new CPU lineup is going to roll out in a couple of weeks. And who knows maybe it is quite good and able to compete with Intel.
Also: If you want to mimic the $1500 pre build you can do so, but with better components.
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xqBjLD
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xqBjLD/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 4 79.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($47.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 750 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($589.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.97 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1497.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-03 04:13 EST-0500
No water cooler, but the mugen is a very good air cooler. 500gb samsung ssd instead of a 250gb whatever brand. 1TB WD Blue, which isn't bad either. 16gb of good ddr4 3200mhz ram instead of 2133mhz. The mobos are comparable and the evga 1080 is ~10% faster then the 1080 founders edition. Should be the same NZXT case.
You can get working windows 10 keys for ~$15 on various sites, but you can also reuse your old one (even win7 keys should still be upgradeable).
If you want to get cheaper get an 6600k instead of a 6700k and/or a 1070 instead of the 1080.
Price is ~ $1200 if you do both and you still have enough performance for 1080p.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vstnwV
Ah, this is perfect. I'll wait for the new lines to come out, as you suggested. Plus it gives me time to look for deals to pop up. Thanks for the edifying list!
Heads up, Newegg has the Asus Z270 ITX board in stock.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132954
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132954
To up date this. Mobo is definitely dead. Tried a different PSU, same issue. Even did a USB BIOS recovery. Took it out of the case as well. Nada. At least I am in warranty with Asus. Although, as per their arrangement it either gets repaired or I get a used unit... not exactly confidence inspiring.
Taking apart my custom loop was much easier this time because after taking my loop apart 3 times already, I have learned there is a right way. Not just clean cable management, but smart cable management is a must with a custom loop. Drain and fill ports as well. Makes life so so much easier. Ideally you should be able to keep all your cables in place. Whole process took about an hour, which is pretty good IMO.
I almost feel like making a video on this because there is no "good" video of how to cable manage a custom loop or a build with lots of cable.
Thanks for the lookout, got that and a 960 Evo 1TB with Saturday delivery. I can now start building inside the NCase M1 I got and shift over to ITX.
So i got a 4k tv today and i connected it to my PC. Now when i set the resolution to 1080p it will display on my tv but when i go above this to say 4k i just get a no signal.
I think it might be how old my HDMI cable is that it wont support that resolution. Could it be this? The only thing i find weird is if the cable wont support it then why can i select that resolution in the first place.
Edit: I have 980TI so i know this should be able to do 4k as well.
I think it might be how old my HDMI cable is that it wont support that resolution. Could it be this? The only thing i find weird is if the cable wont support it then why can i select that resolution in the first place.
Edit: I have 980TI so i know this should be able to do 4k as well.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Age may well be the cause, both in terms of bandwidth but also basic cable quality. A cable that had worked fine with one of the Blu-Ray players my family had was... not quite so capable anymore after we moved it when installing the new TV.
The cable needs to be HDMI 2.0 or above, I think. Also make sure that your TV HDMI input supports the resolution and *refresh rate* it's set to when you switch to the TV -- I've seen some sets that only support 4K at 30hz on one HDMI port but 60hz on another (the "PC" HDMI input).
CybernatonEvolution
Member
I finished my ITX build; I just transferred all of my old equipment into a new motherboard+case. The brands are different but both are Z97 motherboards obviously. So I turn the PC on and I got two BSODs in a row after some time running it. Windows 10 requires activation, and the PC freezes occasionally. Either the OS or the BIOS is corrupted. It is running fine now with factory/optimal BIOS settings, but I will see if it is stable.
Bloodember
Member
If you are able to get into your BIOS and do anything your BIOS is not corrupt.
HDMI 1.4 does 4k resolution , unless you want hdr then you need a 2.0 cable.
I see guess the HDMI i am using just now is not even 1.4 then.
Thanks all for the help will pick up a new cable tomorrow i think and hope that sorts everything.
Struggling to decide between waiting for the Omen X 35" or springing now for the Samsung CF791. After using my X800D I've decided to go VA rather than IPS for my next monitor. I'd probably rather have G-Sync as I currently figure AMD is just going to get outdone by the next Ti card, but I do like the Samsung QD panels a lot and the curve on the Samsung is a little tighter (1500R vs 1800R) which I imagine is better for reducing any off-angle color shift from your normal position. The price difference is pretty big here too, about $350 for basically switching FreeSync for G-Sync.
QuantumSquid
Member
100 cad = 76 usd...
the 970 is absolutely worth 76 bucks. i paid 300 for mine a year ago ._.
My Samsung 960 Pro M.2 512GB SSD shipped today from Amazon. Both they and Newegg still have stock, so it looks like the dam has finally burst on 960 Pro M.2 availability.
Just need to wait until next week Friday's payday, and then I'm going to be putting the rest of the pieces on order. So close now!
Just need to wait until next week Friday's payday, and then I'm going to be putting the rest of the pieces on order. So close now!
Decent case but too compromised unles you are ok with AIO water loop.
Node 304 still gets my vote.
Don't do what I did kids.
I finally had my new Kaby Lake setup done, except for a 960 Pro SSD that arrived today. If you haven't mounted an M.2 drive before, you have to screw a little standoff to the motherboard and then the drive inserts into a socket with the far end supported by this standoff. A screw then holds it in place.
I first mounted it into the second slot on my board, which is further away from the CPU. After thinking better of it, I decided to switch it to the slot by the CPU so I can add a second drive easily later (slot 1 is obscured by the CPU cooler to some degree).
I had hand screwed the standoff in, and then used a tiny screwdriver like you'd use to repair glasses to secure the screw. It's stupid small. Whelp, the screw came out easy enough, but the standoff wouldn't budge. I wound up needing to use some needle nose pliers to have any chance of removing the standoff, at which point the spot where it attaches to the motherboard broke off instead of the standoff turning counter-clockwise. :-(
It's crazy, there's no way I got it too tight with the tiny screwdriver. It's like it just fused into place. It looks like the spot where the standoff attaches might have been glued into place. There's a hole but nothing on the back side to secure it.
I finally had my new Kaby Lake setup done, except for a 960 Pro SSD that arrived today. If you haven't mounted an M.2 drive before, you have to screw a little standoff to the motherboard and then the drive inserts into a socket with the far end supported by this standoff. A screw then holds it in place.
I first mounted it into the second slot on my board, which is further away from the CPU. After thinking better of it, I decided to switch it to the slot by the CPU so I can add a second drive easily later (slot 1 is obscured by the CPU cooler to some degree).
I had hand screwed the standoff in, and then used a tiny screwdriver like you'd use to repair glasses to secure the screw. It's stupid small. Whelp, the screw came out easy enough, but the standoff wouldn't budge. I wound up needing to use some needle nose pliers to have any chance of removing the standoff, at which point the spot where it attaches to the motherboard broke off instead of the standoff turning counter-clockwise. :-(
It's crazy, there's no way I got it too tight with the tiny screwdriver. It's like it just fused into place. It looks like the spot where the standoff attaches might have been glued into place. There's a hole but nothing on the back side to secure it.
JonnyDBrit
Member
So, I sorted out the Witcher 3's framerates. Running smooth in the 50-60 FPS range even with ultra shadows on, game looks better than ever.
For the maybe twenty minutes I can play it before it crashes.
Slowly making progress.
For the maybe twenty minutes I can play it before it crashes.
Slowly making progress.
Yappadappadu
Member
Have all my parts together, but am still unsure about the case.
I ordered the Fractal Design Define R5, since I heard so many positives about it being a great silent case, but I'm scared away by the (cheap looking) plastic.
My old Lian Li PC-7FN is an aluminium case, but makes a bit too much noise for my taste. At least with the old parts in it.
There's the Enthoo Evolv that is a great looking aluminium case but there's no windowless version, unfortunately.
I think I'll just start by putting my new parts in my old Lian Li case and see how it goes, but any good aluminum case, that is silent, has no windows and is able to house an internal blu-ray burner?
btw. thanks to those who answered my earlier M.2 SSD question. For now I'll simply use my new Samsung 850 Evo 1 TB SSD since I don't really see any real use in an 950 Evo for what I'm doing.
I ordered the Fractal Design Define R5, since I heard so many positives about it being a great silent case, but I'm scared away by the (cheap looking) plastic.
My old Lian Li PC-7FN is an aluminium case, but makes a bit too much noise for my taste. At least with the old parts in it.
There's the Enthoo Evolv that is a great looking aluminium case but there's no windowless version, unfortunately.
I think I'll just start by putting my new parts in my old Lian Li case and see how it goes, but any good aluminum case, that is silent, has no windows and is able to house an internal blu-ray burner?
btw. thanks to those who answered my earlier M.2 SSD question. For now I'll simply use my new Samsung 850 Evo 1 TB SSD since I don't really see any real use in an 950 Evo for what I'm doing.
I just built a computer with the Fractal Design Define S and the build quality is amazing for the price. Also, there's not much noise difference between define s and define r5, paying that extra 40$ is kind of pointless unless u have a ton of hard drives and solid state drives.
QuantumSquid
Member
the define r5 is a quality case. you shouldn't be scared to build in it.
BFIB
Member
Got a buyer lined up for my One S.
So, now decision time:
1060 vs. 480
Any PC gaffers have any thoughts or recommendations/deals? I've been researching both, both seem somewhat even of performance. Haven't been on AMD in a while, I'm assuming if I go that route, removing my drivers for my nvidia 670 is pretty straightforward?
So, now decision time:
1060 vs. 480
Any PC gaffers have any thoughts or recommendations/deals? I've been researching both, both seem somewhat even of performance. Haven't been on AMD in a while, I'm assuming if I go that route, removing my drivers for my nvidia 670 is pretty straightforward?
Greatest Ever
Member
Should I go with this:
http://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem....ascsubtag=00c035a13ec2e95921836e7d07e3a84f_CT
Or a Samsung 850 500 GB? Or should I just rough it out until Black Friday for another deal on a 750 GB SSD?
http://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem....ascsubtag=00c035a13ec2e95921836e7d07e3a84f_CT
Or a Samsung 850 500 GB? Or should I just rough it out until Black Friday for another deal on a 750 GB SSD?
EVA UNIT 01
Member
PLEASE HELP GAF!
never tried using a display port before always used hdmi and now with my first 1440 144hz monitor it wont display anything.
when i swap from hdmi to dp it flashes the desktop for a second then goes black and goes into energy saving mode
what do gaf?
never tried using a display port before always used hdmi and now with my first 1440 144hz monitor it wont display anything.
when i swap from hdmi to dp it flashes the desktop for a second then goes black and goes into energy saving mode
what do gaf?
Bloodember
Member
Are you switching to the displayport on the monitor?
opticalmace
Member
Try rebooting with just displayport plugged in.
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