Depends on your definition of decent really. If you're expecting a mechanical keyboard or RGB lighting etc then no, but you can get a good KBM set for that much. Microsoft and Logitech do some nice sets... even Cooler Master have their MasterKeys Lite L set which is nice. Or if you don't want a set, you can easily get some separates like a Cougar 200K keyboard and a SteelSeries Rival 100.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I'm not really fussed about getting anything fancy cos I mainly use the Steam controller to play a lot of my games. I just want something where I won't be at a massive disadvantage when playing twitch shooters. The Cooler Master one looks alright so I might get that, unless there's anything better for around that price?
I do, and now that you mention it, I changed it so that G-Sync would work in both full screen and windowed -- that may have done it. I tend to switch between full/windowed quite often.
Tenacious-D
Member
Was wondering if someone could provide some advice.
I see that the R9 Fury is going for around $250 on Amazon and Newegg. I don't live in the US, but to import with all taxes ect would be around ZAR4000, which is cheaper than what a RX480 costs over here.
My current specs are
i5 2320
GTX960
8GB DDR3
128GB SSD
Several HDD's
Seasonic S12II 520w
Would it be smart to go for the R9 Fury, or wait for VEGA? I doubt VEGA will be anywhere near $250, although I guess they could pull a Ryzen. I want to go for a AMD GPU anyway, as I've finally decided to bite the bullet and get a LG 29UM68-P 21:9 monitor, which has FreeSync.
Speaking of Ryzen, I plan on upgrading my CPU, mobo, RAM and PSU (the old parts will be repurposed into my NAS) when the 6 core 12 thread chip launches in Q2. If I go with the Fury, there will probably be a bottleneck on my CPU until I upgrade, right? If I go with the Fury, I also plan on undevolting it. No need for it to turn into a furnace when I'm only doing 2560x1080.
I see that the R9 Fury is going for around $250 on Amazon and Newegg. I don't live in the US, but to import with all taxes ect would be around ZAR4000, which is cheaper than what a RX480 costs over here.
My current specs are
i5 2320
GTX960
8GB DDR3
128GB SSD
Several HDD's
Seasonic S12II 520w
Would it be smart to go for the R9 Fury, or wait for VEGA? I doubt VEGA will be anywhere near $250, although I guess they could pull a Ryzen. I want to go for a AMD GPU anyway, as I've finally decided to bite the bullet and get a LG 29UM68-P 21:9 monitor, which has FreeSync.
Speaking of Ryzen, I plan on upgrading my CPU, mobo, RAM and PSU (the old parts will be repurposed into my NAS) when the 6 core 12 thread chip launches in Q2. If I go with the Fury, there will probably be a bottleneck on my CPU until I upgrade, right? If I go with the Fury, I also plan on undevolting it. No need for it to turn into a furnace when I'm only doing 2560x1080.
But why does it only happen in some occasions? Like, Furmark has no problem pushing the GPU to the limit, while Half Life 2 doesn't even try.
Get the data with MSI Afterburner.
Log the GPU temp, GPU usage, GPU clock, CPU usage, CPU clock.
I'm not sure what you want me to do with this software? I was monitoring with Open Hardware Monitor and using the various ingame fps counters, or Steam's.
Neither is in a class with the current Samsung offerings, but I think the Plextor edges out the Intel for normal workloads. Anandtech compared them in all benchmarks. Plextor has some issues with throttling writes if your workload is heavy enough, but shouldn't affect most use cases. Can avoid this by using the PCIE card for it (heatsink).
http://www.anandtech.com/show/10909/the-plextor-m8pe-512gb-ssd-review
sono
Gold Member
I am confused on what is the difference between these two Gigabyte 8G 1080 Graphics cards
The G1 Gaming and the Extreme Gaming
I am looking for the better performance choice if there is one here or is the difference only features and the performance is the same.
By performance I am referring to shooter fps.. everything else being equal
Thank you.
The G1 Gaming and the Extreme Gaming
I am looking for the better performance choice if there is one here or is the difference only features and the performance is the same.
By performance I am referring to shooter fps.. everything else being equal
Thank you.
Technically the Xtreme is slightly faster (it has 1759MHz/1898MHz clocks comparted to 1721MHz/1860MHz, as well as slightly faster memory), it has a larger cooler so there's more portential still and it comes with a bunch of extra bits:
Xtreme VR Link extended 5.25" front panel (2 HDMI ports and 2 USB 3.0 ports)
Xtreme VR Link extended bracket
Xtreme SLI bridge
XMP300 mouse pad
Wrist protector
Xtreme Gaming Sticker
The downside however is it is a triple-slot card so it is hefty and takes up a lot of room.
sono
Gold Member
I am wanting to get three tvs for my rig to use as monitors for a flight sim.
My graphics card has 1 hdmi and 3 display port
I am not aware you can get tvs with display port easily they just come with hdmi.
Can you run HDMI off display port - are there any quality disadvantages to doing that.
thank you
My graphics card has 1 hdmi and 3 display port
I am not aware you can get tvs with display port easily they just come with hdmi.
Can you run HDMI off display port - are there any quality disadvantages to doing that.
thank you
You can get DisplayPort to HDMI adapters, or even DisplayPort to HDMI cables. There's no quality loss and they will carry audio (one at a time) if you need it to.
lostsupper
Banned
Good suggestions, thank-you! If I can knock a couple of quid of everything, all the better.
I might also go for the AMD card, but I do worry about dropping certain Nvidia features I intended to make use of - CUDA, for example.
Really the higher the better, but I'll settle with anything better than the 650M I'm suffering from now! It's honestly got to be a balance of price and performance, but anything I get will be leap years ahead of what I'm used to. A 970 Would cut the cost of the total build, yet still, in theory, deliver me at least some of the performance I need!
-EDIT- So here's an updated list with the alterations above tacked on:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (£319.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£105.59 @ Aria PC)
GPU: Asus Radeon DUAL RX 480 GDDR5 8GB OC VR Gaming Graphics Card (£182.99 @ AWD IT)
PSU" EVGA 500W PSU (£37.00 @ AWD IT)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£88.96 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.12 @ Aria PC)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H23 ATX Mid Tower Case (£26.48 @ Aria PC)
Total: £803.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-24 16:38 GMT+0000
__________________________________
Thoughts?
sono
Gold Member
Hey brother, Google tells me I can get an adapter cable, but it doesnt cover my full question for which I trust NeoGAF experience. Thanks anyway..
Thank you LordAlu for your help with this.
What is the label on that plug, hdaudio or ac97?
Looks like a USB2 or Audio connector, does the side of the connector have any text on it?
Rendering is the one area where we could pretty much unequivocally say Ryzen is the better choice before reviews even hit. Taking Cinebench R17 (which is a "synthetic" benchmark, but one which uses a real production renderer rendering an actual scene) as a guide, a Ryzen 1700 would give you approximately 73% higher performance than the i7 6700 you've got on there for only $30 more. You could also overclock the 1700 if you wished, potentially pushing up the performance differential even further.
Alternatively, you could likely get at least as good performance as the i7 6700 at a lower cost if you wait for one of the 6 core Ryzens in a couple of months time.
Übermatik;230942485 said:
Personally I like to include a motherboard in my PC builds, but maybe that's just me
Regarding the AMD vs Nvidia, it would be worth checking the documentation for the software you use to see if any of it specifically requires CUDA for any GPU accelerated features. Most things seem to be moving to OpenCL, but it varies from one software package to the next, so it's worth looking into before you commit to a graphics card.
Dell technician came to my house today after I booked the day off work to replace my motherboard and heatsink due to my CPU hitting 90 degrees C at load.
Hasn't solved the temperature issue and I still have terrible performance in BF1 on a GTX 1080 so I'm now going to reapply Arctic Silver thermal paste and see how that affects things. If that doesn't improve it I assume the cooling / case is the issue and will have to bite the bullet on the upgrade I was considering
Hasn't solved the temperature issue and I still have terrible performance in BF1 on a GTX 1080 so I'm now going to reapply Arctic Silver thermal paste and see how that affects things. If that doesn't improve it I assume the cooling / case is the issue and will have to bite the bullet on the upgrade I was considering
Personally I like to include a motherboard in my PC builds, but maybe that's just me
Regarding the AMD vs Nvidia, it would be worth checking the documentation for the software you use to see if any of it specifically requires CUDA for any GPU accelerated features. Most things seem to be moving to OpenCL, but it varies from one software package to the next, so it's worth looking into before you commit to a graphics card.
Ah shit, where did that go?! Hahaha!
CUDA applies to many programs in the Adobe suite I'll be using, specifically Ae, plus some additional support in Red Giant products. I'm also tempted by shadow play and G-Sync tech later down the line. That said, these are all benefits I'd be willing to drop if it meant a price difference - but it's not looking that way, so I may as well go Nvidia?
Aside from that, how's the build looking Thraktor? Any feedback? What about a Mobo? Is the B350M JonnyDBrit suggested a good choice?
As it stands I'll be looking at about £800-900 - still higher than I had really hoped, but I suppose I could opt for a 1050 to bring things down a bit further? What can I afford to skimp on if I bring the budget down?
Sorry for all the questions, but it'd be nice to have some flexibility so I can stand back and consider multiple builds! I'm eager for Ryzen, so I guess the rest is up to picking a lesser GPU / maybe cutting out some storage...
Here's where it fit in his old asus motherboard, but it's just soldered over here. It doesn't have a label. You can see it's mirrored to the usb connector in the bottom left. Outside of soldering, do I need to buy extra connector or something? If so, what?
I'd verify that's what isn't working though.
Edit: Nope, the missing pin is in the wrong spot for USB2. That's the blue connector on the bottom of that pic.
This should give some assistance: http://connector.pinoutguide.com/10_pin_IDC_male/
The thing is, it looks just like a USB2 header, but the keyed pin is 10 instead of 9. So that would make it possible rare or non-standard USB2 header? Something similar to that is here, look at the bottom pic for USB2 (http://pinoutguide.com/Motherboard/usb_2_1_header_pinout.shtml).
The audio headers look different, with pin 8 keyed.
Do you have the exact model number of the old motherboard?
sono
Gold Member
Unfortunately we need the manual for the original motherboard unless he can trace the cable to the specific connectors on the case.
The old motherboard is a pb vegas 2, which is just a Packard Bell version of the new asus motherboard, which is why I opted for this one. Everything is the exact same, but for this one annoying anomaly.
I'll have to try tomorrow and see the exact root of the cables. It's an old Packard Bell chassis with lots of in the way metal, so it's not exactly easy to see where the cable roots from, but I'm pretty sure it's the power button, as I've connected everything exactly like his old motherboard, but the power button doesn't work.
I think I might just scrap the case and buy him a new cheap one.
I'll have to try tomorrow and see the exact root of the cables. It's an old Packard Bell chassis with lots of in the way metal, so it's not exactly easy to see where the cable roots from, but I'm pretty sure it's the power button, as I've connected everything exactly like his old motherboard, but the power button doesn't work.
I think I might just scrap the case and buy him a new cheap one.
ZombiePlatypus
Member
I switched out cables, and it finally worked with the 3rd one! Also, switched to InputMapper as opposed to using DS4Windows.
Thank you!
That's the clue..
Look at page 17 of this document. There's the connector. Didn't realize it was so old, but Intel used to have a front panel header connector standard with pin 10 keyed and power involved, as well as reset and HDD activity.
http://www.formfactors.org/developer\specs\a2928604.pdf
540 here.
Enough room to do whatever you want really, even some water cooling. I have everything from 3 GPUs in here at a time, to my current single GPU setup. You're also able to do a push/pull cooling setup (4 fans on the radiator) if you want, with no space issues.
It's my favorite of the cases I've had. The 740 is newer, but IMO, is hideous looking. I think it's a bit bigger as well.
AnythingBut
Member
Yet another Ryzen advice post.
Ok, going with the R 1700, paired with the GIGABYTE GA-AB350-Gaming 3 , but still trying to decide what brand/speed of 16gb memory to go with.
Recommendations?
Ok, going with the R 1700, paired with the GIGABYTE GA-AB350-Gaming 3 , but still trying to decide what brand/speed of 16gb memory to go with.
Recommendations?
V1LÆM
Gold Member
corsair. get the fastest you can afford and that your motherboard supports. looks like that is 3200:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0143UM4TC/
doesn't seem to be much a price difference between 2666/2800/3000/3200 so might as well just get the 3200 ones.
the price of RAM has gone way up. i bought those exact sticks last june for just £80.
AnythingBut
Member
Seems that it only supports 3200 when overclocked.."Support for DDR4 3200(O.C.)/2933(O.C.)/2667/2400/2133 MHz memory modules"..and on the Memory Support List.
Although it does list one Hyperx and three Corsair modules @ 3200 that are supported, but otherwise 2666MHz looks to be the highest supported @ stock and you can o/c that up to 3200MHz.
Going by that i think i'll plum for 2666 and *hopefully* raise it by tinkering.
Nostremitus
Member
Same as X99, right?
We just looking at ASUS X99 offerings. It lists RAM speed as 3200 MHz(OC)
It doesn't list anything higher than hat officially.
Suppose it depends on the board.
V1LÆM
Gold Member
ok...you will always need to overclock to get those those speeds though. i run mine at 2666 with 1.2V without XMP. if i wanted 3200 i'd need to enable xmp and use 1.35V
if you get 2666 then that's the best you'll get. if you get the 3200 ones you can run at either 3200 or 2666. there isn't much a price difference so it'd be best getting 3200.
Nyteshade517
Member
I had intended on getting an Intel 600p 512GB drive for the build I'm planning but I might have to save a bit of money on that part of my plan and think about another smaller drive for the time being...then at a later time get another M.2 or regular SSD to add more storage)
The OCZ RD400 256GB for around $135 looks like a good choice from what I have seen about it...I know 256GB isn't a ton of space but for an OS drive and maybe an occasional game it would work for me
I wanted my choice to still be an NVMe drive so that's why I looked at this one
Thoughts?
The OCZ RD400 256GB for around $135 looks like a good choice from what I have seen about it...I know 256GB isn't a ton of space but for an OS drive and maybe an occasional game it would work for me
I wanted my choice to still be an NVMe drive so that's why I looked at this one
Thoughts?
I think MyDigitalSSD is making the best budget NVMe drives. At least give those a look. It's far better than the Intel series and on par with the OCZ, even a bit better at some things. 480GB is $200 and 256GB is $115.
Maybe I'm just stuck on how well my 2500K performed, especially at 4.6GHz but I think I may some big helps guys. My 7700K is running a bit hotter than it should be and temps are spiking like crazy even browsing through the internet. My cooler is a Cryorig H7. Here's what five minutes of customizing some cars in the Rocket League main menu look like. Nothing is overclocked either.
I've already reseated the cooler and reapplied thermal paste about an hour ago but I'm still getting the same results. Originally I applied MX-4, second time around I applied CP7. I've moved my front two case fans from 5v to 12v which didn't help that much either. All case fans are pushing air flow through correctly. I've upped the default fan profile in BIOS as well for my cooler and that didn't do anything really either.
Running x264 with 16 threads puts my CPU up to around 82C within five minutes. Idle is 34C. Actually playing a couple matches of Rocket League, temps are 64-67C. Now 67C isn't that high, but when CPU usage is around 15%, that seems high. The spiking is what's certainly wrong.
My 2500K performed a bit cooler than this with my 212+, but I never got temp spikes like this, nor did my temps ever close to 82c. One difference I can tell is that the fan on my cooler is not pushing out near as much cool air as the fan on my 212+. My heatsink on the 212 was cool to the touch at idle, while my H7 pipe is not. I also could feel air coming out of the 212+ on the left side right next to the exhaust fan, but I can't feel any air out the other side of my H7. Maybe that's just the way this new cooler is built? I dont know. Is the 7700K just by default a poorly cooled chip?
I've already reseated the cooler and reapplied thermal paste about an hour ago but I'm still getting the same results. Originally I applied MX-4, second time around I applied CP7. I've moved my front two case fans from 5v to 12v which didn't help that much either. All case fans are pushing air flow through correctly. I've upped the default fan profile in BIOS as well for my cooler and that didn't do anything really either.
Running x264 with 16 threads puts my CPU up to around 82C within five minutes. Idle is 34C. Actually playing a couple matches of Rocket League, temps are 64-67C. Now 67C isn't that high, but when CPU usage is around 15%, that seems high. The spiking is what's certainly wrong.
My 2500K performed a bit cooler than this with my 212+, but I never got temp spikes like this, nor did my temps ever close to 82c. One difference I can tell is that the fan on my cooler is not pushing out near as much cool air as the fan on my 212+. My heatsink on the 212 was cool to the touch at idle, while my H7 pipe is not. I also could feel air coming out of the 212+ on the left side right next to the exhaust fan, but I can't feel any air out the other side of my H7. Maybe that's just the way this new cooler is built? I dont know. Is the 7700K just by default a poorly cooled chip?
How does old 2-3 generation old GPU compare against unreleased GPU that we haven't seen yet?
Poor IHS contact (chip to the metal part you can see is usually the culprit and is fairly common. Nothing you can do except delid or ask Intel for a replacement, or buy a new one, sell the old.
I'm not sure if any of the boards will support those speeds out of the gate before memory compatibility gets updated. Best to wait until actual launch and find out before buying fast RAM that may not run. I'd get 3000Mhz minimum anyway the price difference is minimal and will probably be supported later in BIOS updates.
Could that be this bad though?
An even more extreme example I just did was my CPU spiked to 72C immediately after restarting. The only thing I did was open foobar and that was it and that caused the spike. It went to 72c and then back down to 34c. How is that even physically possible?
Could it be the temps arent actually that bad and its a sensor problem? Or could my default voltage be screwed up somehow?
V1LÆM
Gold Member
doesn't really matter if they support it straight away or not. they will only run at the lowest setting out the box. my 3200 sticks ran at 2133. you just set it as high as you can. if you get 3200 sticks then that's the highest they are rated for. if you buy for example 2800 sticks then that's probably as high as you'll get. best going for 3200 even if you're running them at 2666 for now. if with future bios updates you can increase it then great.
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