Maybe check those new ryzen cpu:s?
I think they might be better for you if you mainly do video etc stuff and also play.
7700k is more purely for gaming and softwares that need those single core speeds.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Maybe check those new ryzen cpu:s?
I think they might be better for you if you mainly do video etc stuff and also play.
7700k is more purely for gaming and softwares that need those single core speeds.
No, it's a good case, and will fit everything, just need to unscrew the PSU bracket in the case to slide the PSU back. I used zip ties to tie a cable to the honeycomb mesh on the case below the PSU (from where the fan breathes) to secure it.
Animation-Imp
Member
Thanks for the suggestions,
I have no experience with AMD hardware, always used Intel for Gpu and cpu.
Is it a good idea to combine an AMD Cpu with an Intel Gpu? I can imagine that's suboptimal.
I have no experience with AMD hardware, always used Intel for Gpu and cpu.
Is it a good idea to combine an AMD Cpu with an Intel Gpu? I can imagine that's suboptimal.
DonMigs85
Member
Uhh... Intel doesn't make discrete GPUs
Animation-Imp
Member
Sorry a little confused.
Are there any advantages to coupling an AMD Cpu with an AMD Gpu?
I always coupled NVIDIA gpu's to Intel Cpus.
I was under the impression those were the ideal combinations.
AnythingBut
Member
Cannot get it to boot when setting xmp in the bios...it only boots into windows when left @ 2133.
Corsair Vengance lpx 2x8gb 3000mhz ram, listed as compatible, but no joy...
Might just be a setting i've missed, or the fact that it's a new platform but it's got me stumped.
Ideas Gaf?
Corsair Vengance lpx 2x8gb 3000mhz ram, listed as compatible, but no joy...
Might just be a setting i've missed, or the fact that it's a new platform but it's got me stumped.
Ideas Gaf?
JonnyDBrit
Member
As with many things in PC building, it depends on what you're trying to do with it.
Strictly speaking though I believe there's no particular performance gain that comes outside of the individual components. There's a novelty to going 'all team red', sure, but you don't get AMD Amplification or whatever. The 'ideal pairing' has largely been the circumstance of AMD being second fiddle in both categories for a while.
The main advantage that seems to be coming out of Ryzen is, somewhat traditionally for AMD as far as I can tell, a greater performance in tasks that require a lot more cores, for cheaper. If you're looking strictly to build a gaming PC, stick with intel. If you're thinking of streaming or using it as a workbench though... may be worth giving Ryzen a look.
sono
Gold Member
So I finally have all my parts together to commence build.
I have Gigabyte Aorus Z270X gaming 7 motherboard
I need advice to attach my cpu cooler pump and fan to this motherboard.
I have the thermaltake water 3.0 all in one 360 rgb riing fan. This is designed to be mounted on the cpu. I am ok with the physical mount process. My question is on the specific gigabyte motherboard headers to use.
Thermaltake supply one connector wire from the cooler for the pump and one connector wire from the thermaltake supplied fan hub .
So I am looking for your advise as to specifically which two motherboard headers I should use for this cooler.
On the motherboard there seem to be three connectors that I might use, "CPU_FAN", "CPU_OPT" and "SYS_FAN5_PUMP" - but I may have this incorrect hence this question!
The cooler pump has 3pin connector; the cooler fan hub has 4 pin connector.
Should it assist - the motherboard manual is here:
http://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z270X-Gaming-7-rev-10#support-manual
and the cooler pdf is here
http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002775
(click the support tab to download the cooler pdf manual)
Both the cooler and motherboard claim to support PWM..
thank you gaf.
I have Gigabyte Aorus Z270X gaming 7 motherboard
I need advice to attach my cpu cooler pump and fan to this motherboard.
I have the thermaltake water 3.0 all in one 360 rgb riing fan. This is designed to be mounted on the cpu. I am ok with the physical mount process. My question is on the specific gigabyte motherboard headers to use.
Thermaltake supply one connector wire from the cooler for the pump and one connector wire from the thermaltake supplied fan hub .
So I am looking for your advise as to specifically which two motherboard headers I should use for this cooler.
On the motherboard there seem to be three connectors that I might use, "CPU_FAN", "CPU_OPT" and "SYS_FAN5_PUMP" - but I may have this incorrect hence this question!
The cooler pump has 3pin connector; the cooler fan hub has 4 pin connector.
Should it assist - the motherboard manual is here:
http://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z270X-Gaming-7-rev-10#support-manual
and the cooler pdf is here
http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002775
(click the support tab to download the cooler pdf manual)
Both the cooler and motherboard claim to support PWM..
thank you gaf.
Like wow I dont even know what to do at this point.
Finished building my new rig entirely just a few mins ago only to find out that Windows 10 doesn't recognize nvme m2 ssds at all on initial install. My only recourse at this point is to wipe my steam drive or pull a scrap 300 GB hdd I have laying around to boot windows onto. If I do that though, will my activations be fucked? I bought the full home version via USB install. My old pc is so torn apart at this point (the thing was near like 8 years old and held together entirely with spit and duct tape) I'd rather drive 45 mins to my brother's house to download the driver on a flash drive than put the fucking thing back together again. Fuck me man, all I wanted to do was bench my 7700k a bit and go to bed =(
Edit: for whatever reason booting the installer up in safe mode made it recognize the nvme ????
Well whatever at least it's installing now lol >.>
Finished building my new rig entirely just a few mins ago only to find out that Windows 10 doesn't recognize nvme m2 ssds at all on initial install. My only recourse at this point is to wipe my steam drive or pull a scrap 300 GB hdd I have laying around to boot windows onto. If I do that though, will my activations be fucked? I bought the full home version via USB install. My old pc is so torn apart at this point (the thing was near like 8 years old and held together entirely with spit and duct tape) I'd rather drive 45 mins to my brother's house to download the driver on a flash drive than put the fucking thing back together again. Fuck me man, all I wanted to do was bench my 7700k a bit and go to bed =(
Edit: for whatever reason booting the installer up in safe mode made it recognize the nvme ????
Well whatever at least it's installing now lol >.>
Sändersson
Member
Gpu sag is such a shame. :'(
Any ideas on how to cope with or fix it? It really sucks since I finally got a case with a side window.
I've had like 5 different gpus in my life time and none of them have sagged and then I finally get a really good looking build with a side windows and bam! xD
Any ideas on how to cope with or fix it? It really sucks since I finally got a case with a side window.
I've had like 5 different gpus in my life time and none of them have sagged and then I finally get a really good looking build with a side windows and bam! xD
Gah, can't get this m2 drive to work for shit. Got windows installed on it, but windows crashes with exception errors before I can even download a single driver.
Now the drive keeps disappearing and reappearing in bios at will.
Probably just going to say Fuck it at this point and run to best buy later and snag a standard sSD. From what I can tell based on googling everywhere trying to get the damned thing running this seems to be a common issue with them.
Now the drive keeps disappearing and reappearing in bios at will.
Probably just going to say Fuck it at this point and run to best buy later and snag a standard sSD. From what I can tell based on googling everywhere trying to get the damned thing running this seems to be a common issue with them.
Sändersson
Member
Gtx 1080 hall of fame which is made by galax I think.
Here is a link to a picture hopefully. xD https://imgur.com/a/96abp
sono
Gold Member
NormalFish
Banned
Looks like the page limit is approaching on this one...
I got a question for y'all. I'm currently using an i5-3570k overclocked @ 4.5GHz, and I'm curious if I should be starting to look to upgrading more seriously. I have no idea how to benchmark to compare to other CPUs and everything I find online with a nice comparison is limited to the stock clocks.
Thoughts?
I got a question for y'all. I'm currently using an i5-3570k overclocked @ 4.5GHz, and I'm curious if I should be starting to look to upgrading more seriously. I have no idea how to benchmark to compare to other CPUs and everything I find online with a nice comparison is limited to the stock clocks.
Thoughts?
boredandlazy
Member
OK, just finished plugging in everything with my new 7700K, GTX 1080 build with an NZXT Kraken X62 Cooler. Using the standard 4.6Ghz overclock profile available in my BIOS it sits at around 60-64C whilst doing H264 encoding. Radiator fans are a bit loud whilst under load, but not noisy if that makes any sense.
Just waiting on my 32GB 3000MHz RAM (still using 16GB of 2133), plus to make it look a little nicer I'm ordering a PSU shroud plus some shorter sata leads to clean things up a little.
Edit: Also I'm a little confused with the dual channel RAM setup. If I have two sticks should I stick each in a different RAM slot colour? Or should I put both in the same colour? Because I thought I should have each stick in a different channel, and isn't two slots of the same colour on the same channel?
Just waiting on my 32GB 3000MHz RAM (still using 16GB of 2133), plus to make it look a little nicer I'm ordering a PSU shroud plus some shorter sata leads to clean things up a little.
Edit: Also I'm a little confused with the dual channel RAM setup. If I have two sticks should I stick each in a different RAM slot colour? Or should I put both in the same colour? Because I thought I should have each stick in a different channel, and isn't two slots of the same colour on the same channel?
I cloned my existing Win10 system over and booted straight up to the M.2, then I installed the Samsung driver.
Perhaps NVMe drivers were patched in by Windows when I booted to do the clone?
Celcius
°Temp. member
Sändersson;231471919 said:
I agree with Smokey, it doesn't look bad to me from the pictures?
And clean build as well
Celcius
°Temp. member
What applications are you using your cpu for?
If it's only gaming then you can definitely still get by at 4.5ghz for now, but you may also want to take a look at the 7700k kaby lake cpu (would add hyper-threading, higher clockspeeds, and better performance per clock, in addition to newer chipset features on the motherboard). If you run applications that take heavy advantage of multi-threading then you may want to take a look at Ryzen.
I'm not sure what motherboard you have but generally you want to put the sticks into slots of matching colors to enable dual-channel mode.
Nostremitus
Member
Check out the Ryzen thread. Lots of Intel CPUs have been benched at various clocks against them. should give you an idea.
alternatively for a quick and dirty, use CPU-Z to bench your CPU.
boredandlazy
Member
Yeah that's what the motherboard manual says too, I was just making the incorrect assumption that the same colour meant the same channel.
Sändersson
Member
I agree with Smokey, it doesn't look bad to me from the pictures?
And clean build as well
Thank you to both of you! Its just a couple of degrees. Its not that much plus when its on the table you see it in an angle so its not that bad. But what im wondering is does it keep bending if I dont find something to support it? Gpu came with a cool looking support "stick" but ofcourse that doesnt fit inside the case.
NormalFish
Banned
Yeah, I've been following Ryzen and it looks pretty impressive. That's what has me thinking it might be time to upgrade. Good plan using CPU-Z, I had forgotten about that program. Will do that.
**
So I got the clock wrong, it's 4.4 not 4.5, not that it makes a world of difference. And I benched at 1910 single core, 7323 Multi with 4 threads. Looking at other scores, I think I might just hold on to it for a while yet. Let Zen work out any potential kinks and then move to that, probably.
TC McQueen
Member
I'd hold off a month or two to see what BIOS and Windows Scheduler updates and see what performance improvements come out of it.
NormalFish
Banned
I'm talking holding off more like a year lol.
TC McQueen
Member
Zen+/Ryzen 2 is probably going to have a lot of improvements, so yeah, it should be even more competitive.
Bloodember
Member
Mice are subjective to what you like, how you hold it, and what you want it for. Look up and see what you like then look at reviews of said mice and decide what you want.
Whatever fits your hand and needs.
If you give some info from that maybe someone can help then.
I would guess if you want something shaped like SS sensei then you could check Benq zowie mice, there is many shapes etc
http://zowie.benq.com/en/product/mouse.html
Celcius
°Temp. member
The logitech G400s is perfection to me but I'd recommend going to a Frys or Microcenter in person and trying stuff out to see what you like.
So I recently built a new PC with the Lian Li PC-05SX case, and I am running into a bit of a heat issue with my graphics card. I have a 3.5" HDD behind it, which means the card is sitting right up against the glass, so the air doesn't really have any place to go from the fans.
At idle it sits at about 35-40C, but depending on the game, it can shoot right up to 90C. It is one of the first shipments of the EVGA 1080 GTX FTW, which I knew has heat issues, and I did apply the bios update, but I don't know how much that actually helps. Should my temps improve once I get the ICX upgrade, or will I still have this problem no matter what unless I remove the HDD behind it and push the card toward the back of the case?
At idle it sits at about 35-40C, but depending on the game, it can shoot right up to 90C. It is one of the first shipments of the EVGA 1080 GTX FTW, which I knew has heat issues, and I did apply the bios update, but I don't know how much that actually helps. Should my temps improve once I get the ICX upgrade, or will I still have this problem no matter what unless I remove the HDD behind it and push the card toward the back of the case?
Avenger54321
Member
So my brother wants to upgrade the RAM to the max (16GB) in his iMac, and since I don't own a Mac, I'm not 100% sure which works. His iMac is:
21.5-inch Mid 2010
CPU i3
RAM: 4 GB 1333 MHz
Will this RAM work? I know how to install it, but I'm not sure if this is the correct type.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAFJ55E8105
21.5-inch Mid 2010
CPU i3
RAM: 4 GB 1333 MHz
Will this RAM work? I know how to install it, but I'm not sure if this is the correct type.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAFJ55E8105
I am thinking of finally taking the step up to 1440p and I hate looking through pros and cons for each monitor.
OP says that the Acer XB271HU is still the one to go for, but I'm not completely sold on IPS. First of all I feel like it could perhaps be a lot of work to get a good one with minimal backlight bleed.
Then you have 2 camps saying that the 4ms response time is either not noticeable or blurry for faster games. Don't know who to trust!
I am currently using the Asus VG248QE which would then be used as my second monitor, I need to get rid of my 13 year old 1280x1024 monitor..
OP says that the Acer XB271HU is still the one to go for, but I'm not completely sold on IPS. First of all I feel like it could perhaps be a lot of work to get a good one with minimal backlight bleed.
Then you have 2 camps saying that the 4ms response time is either not noticeable or blurry for faster games. Don't know who to trust!
I am currently using the Asus VG248QE which would then be used as my second monitor, I need to get rid of my 13 year old 1280x1024 monitor..
Didn't see anyone reply to the last time I asked, so I thought I'd ask again.
I upgraded my GPU recently, and have the same setup of my monitor connected via DVI and a TV connected via HDMI that I only use as a second display rarely. On my old GPU, whenever I turned on the TV (just to watch TV, not even using it as a second display), some games might flicker a bit when the PC was playing the notification sound that a connected device was being turned on. Skyrim in particular would go black until I alt+tabbed out and back in. All in all, wasn't a big deal.
Now however, the monitor will flicker when I turn the TV on regardless of what sort of window I'm in. It also seems to force the cursor to the center of the display too. I can't seem to find any people with this particular issue from searching online. It's not really a huge deal even with the extra symptoms, but it would just be nice to be able to eliminate it. Does anyone know if there are settings that can change this?
I upgraded my GPU recently, and have the same setup of my monitor connected via DVI and a TV connected via HDMI that I only use as a second display rarely. On my old GPU, whenever I turned on the TV (just to watch TV, not even using it as a second display), some games might flicker a bit when the PC was playing the notification sound that a connected device was being turned on. Skyrim in particular would go black until I alt+tabbed out and back in. All in all, wasn't a big deal.
Now however, the monitor will flicker when I turn the TV on regardless of what sort of window I'm in. It also seems to force the cursor to the center of the display too. I can't seem to find any people with this particular issue from searching online. It's not really a huge deal even with the extra symptoms, but it would just be nice to be able to eliminate it. Does anyone know if there are settings that can change this?
I live in Rural Quebec, so that's not an option lol. I'll check out the G400 and the Zowie mice. Really like the basic shape of the Sensei.
z270 ASUS Apex
And yeah I just ran out to best buy and picked up a sata SDD just to get this rig going at all, and am in the process of getting it cloned over to the M2. Here's hoping, lol
Been meaning to reply to you man, but this is the first time I've had a functioning windows boot in like 15 hours lol >.>
I have the 240 edition of the same AIO, and my mobo threw a fit when I installed it as directed (dongle > CPU_FAN header, pump and fans > dongle). I just ignored the weird dongle and then installed the fans in CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT1 then pluged the pump into an AIO_PUMP header that my mobo has. Have to work in the dongle when I want to change colors, but once I got it set to the colors I wanted I just left it to the mobo to handle everything else.
I honestly think you should just buy somewhere else. Just checked that 1070 on tweakers.net. You could get it for 420 in other places instead of 480 on Codima.be. You'd save 60 just on the video card. The rest of the components would probably also be much cheaper. You wouldn't need to drop anything.
You'd still have a physical contact point if you want, it would just be in the Netherlands. Just pick a store that's close to the border. I think there's one in Breda.
I'd also definitely get a cheaper 500gb SSD like an 850 evo. The performance difference in day to day use isn't worth the price difference. It might be for animation and film production, that I don't know.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
I made a thread about this but now I realize this is probably a better spot for this.
I delidded my 6700K and here are the results:
I was not getting excellent temps or a particularly great OC out of my i7-6700K so I decided to try my luck delidding it. I used the razor method and had good luck with ultra thin razors used for shaving. The old school ones. They're very thin and bendy though so I suggest being extremely careful. I started with the corners and worked my way around the IHS making sure not to cut too deep. I managed to remove the IHS and clean ALL the glue residue without damaging anything. They sell products specifically for delidding these processors and I would recommend those to the faint of heart. I used the floating method instead of re-gluing the IHS to the PCB and I'm very glad I did for reasons I'll get into later.
I HAD BAD LUCK AT FIRST.
I used Arctic MX-4 thermal paste between the die and the IHS and my temps did not improve significantly. At 1.335 on the VCORE I would hit 80C with a 4.6Ghz clock pretty soon after starting AIDA64. I tried several reapplications and eventually switched thermal pastes to Noctua NT-H1 and experienced similar results. I was very disappointed.
THEN I TRIED SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
So yeah, I was pretty bummed that I voided my CPU warranty for nothing. So I did some digging to see if there was anything I could do that might significantly improve temps. I looked into things like mounting the cooler directly onto the die but decided it was too dangerous/too much work. Eventually I came across peopled talking about having good results with Coollabratory Liquid Ultra TIM being on their hot running Kaby Lake CPUs. I have got to say... WOW.
I've been running AIDA64 for the last hour minutes or so and instead of shooting up to 80°C+ right away I'm still sitting at 56°C on the hottest core. My CPU fans would obviously hit 100% before and now they aren't coming anywhere close to that. So lower fan speeds and temp differences of close to 25°C. This is absolutely insane.
The liquid metal TIM made a huge difference but it's not without its faults. It's a pain in the ass to apply and I got some on my my plastic/vinyl place mat and it must have had some sort of weird chemical reaction because it looks like it left a burn on the mat. Be really careful not to get this stuff on anything. BTW, it IS conductive so be extremely careful not to get it on any contacts of your MOBO or CPU.
I only used the stuff between the IHS and the die. I did not use any between the heatsink and the IHS because you need to scuff up both surfaces for it to stick properly to those surfaces. I used the Noctua NT-H1 TIM for use between the Noctua heatsink and the IHS.
Sorry if this thread is kind of random, but ehhhh. I'm excited and wanted to share.
I delidded my 6700K and here are the results:
I was not getting excellent temps or a particularly great OC out of my i7-6700K so I decided to try my luck delidding it. I used the razor method and had good luck with ultra thin razors used for shaving. The old school ones. They're very thin and bendy though so I suggest being extremely careful. I started with the corners and worked my way around the IHS making sure not to cut too deep. I managed to remove the IHS and clean ALL the glue residue without damaging anything. They sell products specifically for delidding these processors and I would recommend those to the faint of heart. I used the floating method instead of re-gluing the IHS to the PCB and I'm very glad I did for reasons I'll get into later.
I HAD BAD LUCK AT FIRST.
I used Arctic MX-4 thermal paste between the die and the IHS and my temps did not improve significantly. At 1.335 on the VCORE I would hit 80C with a 4.6Ghz clock pretty soon after starting AIDA64. I tried several reapplications and eventually switched thermal pastes to Noctua NT-H1 and experienced similar results. I was very disappointed.
THEN I TRIED SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
So yeah, I was pretty bummed that I voided my CPU warranty for nothing. So I did some digging to see if there was anything I could do that might significantly improve temps. I looked into things like mounting the cooler directly onto the die but decided it was too dangerous/too much work. Eventually I came across peopled talking about having good results with Coollabratory Liquid Ultra TIM being on their hot running Kaby Lake CPUs. I have got to say... WOW.
I've been running AIDA64 for the last hour minutes or so and instead of shooting up to 80°C+ right away I'm still sitting at 56°C on the hottest core. My CPU fans would obviously hit 100% before and now they aren't coming anywhere close to that. So lower fan speeds and temp differences of close to 25°C. This is absolutely insane.
The liquid metal TIM made a huge difference but it's not without its faults. It's a pain in the ass to apply and I got some on my my plastic/vinyl place mat and it must have had some sort of weird chemical reaction because it looks like it left a burn on the mat. Be really careful not to get this stuff on anything. BTW, it IS conductive so be extremely careful not to get it on any contacts of your MOBO or CPU.
I only used the stuff between the IHS and the die. I did not use any between the heatsink and the IHS because you need to scuff up both surfaces for it to stick properly to those surfaces. I used the Noctua NT-H1 TIM for use between the Noctua heatsink and the IHS.
Sorry if this thread is kind of random, but ehhhh. I'm excited and wanted to share.
dcx4610
Member
There's a G-sync thread floating around but what's up?
Celcius
°Temp. member
Yep, either in this thread or else there's also a thread specifically for g-sync: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=939724
edit: beaten
Thanks to both of you. I'm thinking this may be a correlation/causality thing but since you're here:
I bought an Asus PG248Q a few days ago and set it up. My specs are:
i7-5820k
GTX 980
16 GB Ram
SSD
I set up the monitor to refresh at 180hz, updated drivers to 378.66 (latest to my knowledge), enabled g-sync and booted up a few games.
I noticed constant fps drops as if the game is dragging itself.
I made a quick video to show this using COD:IW as it comes with a built in FPS counter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1PuN7d5sHA&feature=youtu.be
This happens in every single game to varying degrees, but the behavior is always the same.
I've absolutely no idea what is going on. To my understanding g-sync should have no way to do this, and as I mentioned before correlation and causality etc etc...but the only change made on my computer recently is the monitor so that's that.
Thank you both in advance for your help
neurosisxeno
Member
Lower your refresh rate. Try 144hz or even 120hz. The difference above 120hz is kind of debatable anyway, and 180hz sounds a tad outlandish.
dcx4610
Member
Thanks to both of you. I'm thinking this may be a correlation/causality thing but since you're here:
I bought an Asus PG248Q a few days ago and set it up. My specs are:
i7-5820k
GTX 980
16 GB Ram
SSD
I set up the monitor to refresh at 180hz, updated drivers to 378.66 (latest to my knowledge), enabled g-sync and booted up a few games.
I noticed constant fps drops as if the game is dragging itself.
I made a quick video to show this using COD:IW as it comes with a built in FPS counter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1PuN7d5sHA&feature=youtu.be
This happens in every single game to varying degrees, but the behavior is always the same.
I've absolutely no idea what is going on. To my understanding g-sync should have no way to do this, and as I mentioned before correlation and causality etc etc...but the only change made on my computer recently is the monitor so that's that.
Thank you both in advance for your help
First, make sure G-Sync is enabled in the Nvidia Control Panel. Under Manage 3D Settings, set V-Sync to Fast (if you have it), Preferred Refresh Rate to Highest, Monitor Technology to G-Sync.
In the game itself, disable V-Sync and if the game supports it, tell it 144-180hz as the refresh rate. This will let the game exceed 60fps but if you can't quite hit the highest frame rates, you shouldn't see any stuttering or judder when you dip frame rates.
I'm sure you are aware but all G-Sync does is prevent screen tearing and smooths out frames.
Had a very similar problem with a Gigabyte board. A future bios update fixed the issue, but seeing as your board was just released, it might be a few days/weeks before that happens
All settings were as you indicated except for V-Sync = Fast, made that change and I still have the same issue. I doubt it's the monitor, it's probably something else...
lostsupper
Banned
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut runs a few degrees cooler than CLU for next time.
- Status