• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

Status
Not open for further replies.

LilJoka

Member
Hey guys, I am building my first X99 PC (5820k) and want to make sure that I made the right decision with my mobo. I have chosen the ASrock Fatal1ty X99 Killer. Has anyone here had any issues with it? I have ASrock with my Quad-Core PC and it has lasted 4+ years. I know the ASUS Deluxe X99 boards are popular and cheaper, but are they worth it over the ASrock? I am only going ASrock specifically for the great reviews and low failure rates, but if ASUS is good, then I may save some money.

Fatality series is very reputable. Probably close to Asus Rampage.

I'll ask one more time before doing it.

Any harm in installing the hyper 212 evo cooler onto the cpu/motherboard now and having it sit until my parts come tonight?

No problem at all. I always install CPU ram and cooler before putting the board into the case. Then I hold the cooler to crane the board into the case. Much easier.

Hey, I have a quick audio question that hopefully someone might be able to shed some light on. My PC has a Creative Sound Blaster Recon3D PCIe sound card that is connected to my receiver through S/PDIF TOSLINK. From my understanding S/PDIF has a maximum bandwidth support of 24 bit / 48k Hz. While it does sound good to the ears it isn't the highest quality home audio available. If I route my audio through my nVidia GPU via HDMI the audio is 24 bit / 192k Hz which is great. However, if I use the GPU HDMI route the audio quality simply isn't as good. Maybe I am just crazy but the audio just doesn't sound as "clean" and the "punch" from the speakers aren't as strong. From what I've read integrated audio (motherboard or GPU) simply can't match the quality of a discrete sound card.

So here is my question: What is the best best method to output PC audio at 24 bit / 192k Hz from a discrete sound card? I would prefer to not buy a super expensive sound card that has a dedicated HDMI output.

HDMI audio is bit perfect.
The only reason it may sound worse is if you are resampling the source content a massive amount, eg 44.1khz to 192khz.
Try the WASAPI audio output - it bypasses the Windows mixer.
 

Shrennin

Didn't get the memo regarding the 14th Amendment
First of all, thank you all for responding to my question. I am definitely not getting that MSI desktop computer now.

i7-6700K, sli 980, 32GB. that's pretty damn powerful but i'm gonna say you could do way better. i'm not in the US so not sure about $3700 but that seems way too high.

what is it about building a PC that is putting you off? if you need help deciding on what parts to get we can help you out. here is one i put together real quick. it has pretty much the same specs as that prebuilt but i put in a 1080 instead of SLI 980. the 1080 is the best card out right now. as you can see the price is no where near $3700. is it really worth the extra $2000 to avoid building it yourself?

I haven't had the best luck with PCs (granted, I've never tried building one myself) but I'm mainly concerned with the quality of its build, cooling, and power for longevity. I was thinking I could have someone build it and then customize it and upgrade it myself to start out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($92.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($699.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($106.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1746.20
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-16 03:33 EDT-0400

or if you really don't mind spending $3700 here is a more powerful build yet still cheaper:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($129.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 PRO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($879.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($699.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($699.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case ($154.57 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($106.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $3440.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-16 03:39 EDT-0400

For 3700 no that isn't great at all...building a computer might be kind of a scary thought at first but I really recommend doing it. if not you might be better off going through someone like origin pc, puget, or digital storm... I've never used them, idk there prices or if there good prices because you customize your computer for your needs then you get a total, but anything has to be better than that for what you get...

Go to PC part picker. Design a build, select NCIX as your preferred vender. Then let them build the PC for you with warranty.

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=7842

Try something like this for over $2000 less and more performance.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($92.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($699.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Thermaltake 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1628.21
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-16 03:52 EDT-0400

Thank you for these suggestions. I'm going to look at all these options and go from here.
 
Ok, now that my GPU is finally on its way, I think it's time to learn: what are the different kinds of AA, and how do I know which one is best for me?

FXAA and SMAA are post-processes—filters applied to the 2D image after it has been rendered by your GPU, but just before it actually gets displayed on your monitor. Thus, these types of antialiasing generally have very little performance impact, although some people complain that it makes the overall image blurrier. SMAA is slightly more resource intensive than FXAA, but also does a better job overall. For some reason, a lot of games don't natively support it, so you need to use something like InjectSMAA.

SSAA stands for super-sampling—the 3D polygons themselves are being rendered at a higher resolution and then downsampled. Thus, a 1080p image rendered with 2xSSAA will perform the same as a native 4K image without any antialiasing applied.

MSAA is like SSAA, except that only certain aspects of the image are rendered at a higher resolution, greatly lessening the performance impact. Unfortunately, a lot of modern games are inherently incompatible with MSAA, for reasons I don't really understand.

Note that you can apply post-process antialiasing (FXAA and/or SMAA) on top of an image rendered with SSAA or MSAA, for an even cleaner picture.
 

Shrennin

Didn't get the memo regarding the 14th Amendment
So I looked at the builds recommended to me, and of those, I think I want to go with blly's build but before I do, I want to check with everyone and see if there is anything that can be improved on it or if it's even a good time to build a top of the line gaming PC (or if I should wait). I've been saving up for a few years for this, so right now I'm not as concerned with a budget as I am getting something that's the best and that will last for a while.

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($129.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 PRO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($879.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($699.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($699.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case ($154.57 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($106.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $3440.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-16 03:39 EDT-0400
 
I like to game, girlfriend does video editing for school(or whatever it is she does is lol I probably shouldn't call it editing since I get yelled at every time I call it that), I do photo editing, so I built a computer that does it all and looks nice since I can afford it, obviously not recommended for everyone.

And it's actually to slow for some of the things my girlfriend does in 3DS Max/Maya I can't figure out if it's the hardware and I need to build her something with workstation parts... Or if it's something in the drivers or the software



Thanks it's been a pain so far though with multiple motherboard failures...I've learned to stay away from MSI and not use ASUS customer service and buy a newegg warranty over the process of this computer...not my first computer but my last time using asus and msi

Oh ok I've worked n extreme tesselation situations on Mudbox/Zbrush and done rendering in 3DS max for large projects. The time it can save you can be a live saver. When I first started we didn't have a server to render from at my school until later (after I had left to take a break do some soul searching and switch majors.) That was certainly a grind lol.

As far as your Mobo because have an X99a SLI plus what issues did you have out of curiosity? I had some issues with posting after 6 months where the computer would no longer recognize 3-4+ sticks of RAM. I tested all the sticks in Memtest86, checked CPU for bent pins, checked connections, tested the power supply etc. Everything I could think of including trying the memory on my friends board. As soon as I switched memory even though the corsair LPX sticks I had were apparently fine and compatible it worked again no issue. Basically my conclusion after tens of hours of forum searching , troubleshooting and discussions with computer engineering/electrical friends with X99 builds is that the BIOS's are miserable on the X99 boards and compatibility issues pop up all the time on these guys. Were your X99 woes memory related as well?
 
First of all, thank you all for responding to my question. I am definitely not getting that MSI desktop computer now.



I haven't had the best luck with PCs (granted, I've never tried building one myself) but I'm mainly concerned with the quality of its build, cooling, and power for longevity. I was thinking I could have someone build it and then customize it and upgrade it myself to start out.







Thank you for these suggestions. I'm going to look at all these options and go from here.

You saw my bit about using NCIX to buy your parts and have them build t for you right? Or you're really worried about doing it yourself I'd highly recommend it for peace of mind. I've always built my own computers so it's hard to not want to feel like saying "just build it!!!! It's easy." But I think I can understand your nervousness and you should do what you need/want in this circumstance. The parts may be slightly more expensive overall depending in various deals, but you won't have to put in the work and will have some security in knowing they'll take care of any issues. Friends and Gaffers that have used or have been very happy with it.

So I looked at the builds recommended to me, and of those, I think I want to go with blly's build but before I do, I want to check with everyone and see if there is anything that can be improved on it or if it's even a good time to build a top of the line gaming PC (or if I should wait). I've been saving up for a few years for this, so right now I'm not as concerned with a budget as I am getting something that's the best and that will last for a while.

So the reason I stepped you down to the $1600 build I had is because SLI solutions are rarely ever recommendable. There's alot of driver issues, most games don't scale well and it can just be a pain for a huge cost increase. It's much better to just save that extra money, sell off your 1080 down the line and keep buying a new GPU every few years. The performance will stay very very high and limit issues. In the long run you save money and get a better gradient in pefromance. Also unless you're desperate to play 4k/60hz it's largely overkill.

I stepped you down to 16GB of ram because unless you do large scale compiling, virtual machines, rendering or video editing it's pointless and gives you no performance advantage. I've linked studies before but diminishing returns on RAM speed really starts to kick in post 2400mhz and most games see no benefit past like 2133. So 3000 is a safe bet you'll get all the performance you need for a long time.

The cheaper Mobo because it has mostly the same feature set and you're just saving by not going with the special gaming brand Mobo that's mainly setup for SLI uses which you wouldn't need. (Although mine will support it just fine too.)

Do not buy a $1000 SSD it's completely overkill get a 256-500GB SSD for OS and games that can use it and a 7200RPM HDD or Hybrid drive (SSD/HDD mix) for the vast majority of your files as many things don't need or see a tangible benefit from a SSD In reality.

The PSU is overkill, you don't need 850w with a single card (you don't even need 750w, but it's on sale). Power usage will only go down with future parts as well. So 750W will be adequate for a looooong time.

Don't let the money burn a hole in your pocket because you have it. Billy's build was intended to be sarcastic to a point to show you how crazy you could get for the cost of the parts you were spending on that MSI machine. The performance difference between those two builds one which is 1/2 the price is much smaller than you think. Save the extra money and use it down the line to upgrade or buy a new top of the line machine when you feel you need an upgrade. Technology becomes outdated fairly fast and you can't beat time by buying super expensive, it just doesn't work.
 

Fracas

#fuckonami
So I looked at the builds recommended to me, and of those, I think I want to go with blly's build but before I do, I want to check with everyone and see if there is anything that can be improved on it or if it's even a good time to build a top of the line gaming PC (or if I should wait). I've been saving up for a few years for this, so right now I'm not as concerned with a budget as I am getting something that's the best and that will last for a while.

I would advise against going SLI (not all games scale well with two graphics cards, and for those that do it's rarely even linear scaling), but it's your call. If you've got the money and want to go all-in on a PC, then go for it.

edit: you can also get faster RAM, I think
 

Keyouta

Junior Member
Looking for a good PC build for the gf. Keep in mind we're in Canada.
She's looking to spend $800 - $1000 for a computer and monitor. We may be able to use a used monitor and case, but not sure yet. Ideally to be built by the end of July. Using Win 7 and upgrading. Going to be used to play games, and do schoolwork.
I can build the system so no problems there. I was looking at the i3 6100 and only a 250GB SSD for storage.
Can anyone help with this? Asking for the second time now.
 

Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member
Oh ok I've worked n extreme tesselation situations on Mudbox/Zbrush and done rendering in 3DS max for large projects. The time it can save you can be a live saver. When I first started we didn't have a server to render from at my school until later (after I had left to take a break do some soul searching and switch majors.) That was certainly a grind lol.

As far as your Mobo because have an X99a SLI plus what issues did you have out of curiosity? I had some issues with posting after 6 months where the computer would no longer recognize 3-4+ sticks of RAM. I tested all the sticks in Memtest86, checked CPU for bent pins, checked connections, tested the power supply etc. Everything I could think of including trying the memory on my friends board. As soon as I switched memory even though the corsair LPX sticks I had were apparently fine and compatible it worked again no issue. Basically my conclusion after tens of hours of forum searching , troubleshooting and discussions with computer engineering/electrical friends with X99 builds is that the BIOS's are miserable on the X99 boards and compatibility issues pop up all the time on these guys. Were your X99 woes memory related as well?

I explained my issues in post 4791, I don't want to anger any one in double posting. Basically the sum of it is I couldn't figure out the problem with the board, just that it was indeed the board, and like you I tried everything imaginable from changing out any and all hardware, reinstalling OS and drivers, trying different BIOS (your not wrong X99 bios are very finicky don't upgrade it on this chipset if your not having issues) and then I got two straight DOAs in RMAing and gave up. Now I'm on ASUS and their a different story, fried one of my 5960x on a rampage v extreme by injecting 1.8v on stock settings(a known issue they supposedly fixed but pops up in certain BIOS versions hoping the edition 10 doesn't have this problem). And then their customer service was god awful and impossible to work with.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
So I looked at the builds recommended to me, and of those, I think I want to go with blly's build but before I do, I want to check with everyone and see if there is anything that can be improved on it or if it's even a good time to build a top of the line gaming PC (or if I should wait). I've been saving up for a few years for this, so right now I'm not as concerned with a budget as I am getting something that's the best and that will last for a while.

i know i recommended that build to you but it was really only to show you what you could get for the price. if you're just gaming you don't really need 32GB ram or 2x 1080's. 16GB and a single 1080 is more than enough to last you many years yet. 2133mhz ram is the standard speed for DDR4 ram but don't buy sticks only capable of 2133. get ones that can do 3000 and just run them as fast as possible. most games won't see much a difference but the price between 2133 and 3000 is very small. as for SLI cards i personally tend to avoid using multiple GPU's as it can cause problems. a single card will work much better.

here is a revised build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($129.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($82.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 PRO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($847.89 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($699.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2501.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-16 15:18 EDT-0400

there are a couple things here i should mention. the CPU cooler is liquid cooled which is generally better than air cooling but of course more expensive. personally i'm happy with my Cooler Master Hyper 212X (air) cooler which costs only $25-30. you can get a decent CPU overclock with the 212X. i would only recommend liquid cooling if you want to get every last drop of performance out your CPU and want to keep it as cool as possible. of course also if you don't mind the thought of liquids being near such expensive parts. failures are very low in these All-in-1's but it's something i just avoid altogether.

the motherboard in part comes down to personal preference. if you want to overclock it has to be a Z170. when it came to decided what motherboard to get i just got one that had all the ports i needed (so video/audio output, amount of usb ports, etc) and one that i thought looked cool.

for the GPU, this lists the EVGA founder's edition. don't buy a founder edition card. go for an aftermarket one with custom coolers by brands like EVGA, msi, asus, gigabyte etc.

while SSD prices are dropping lower and lower they are still quite expensive. figure out how much storage you are going to need. 2TB might be way too much. for me 1TB is more than enough. if you need a lot of storage, say 2TB+, but also want the benefits of an SSD then what a lot of people do is buy a small capacity SSD, 128-512GB, to install Windows + favourite games on and then get a mechanical 7200RPM HD that can hold 1/2/3/4TB to store other games and files. HDD's are way cheaper than SSD's.

as for the case, again it comes down to preference. what one looks nice, how big is it, how many fans can it hold, does it have space/support for liquid cooling, does it have enough HDD/ODD bays, does it have a built in fan controller, is it easy to clean, is cable management easy?
 

inyue

Banned
Well, my EVO212 fans are broken. Sometimes it was doing some weird noises so I tried to repair and fucked up :p

So I need something to replace the cooler, from what I could understand I can just replace the fan...

I build this PC 2 years ago and I'm surprised to see that this cooler is still recommended around here :O

Is worth upgrading to a Corsair H100i GTX ? Or buying a fan would be enough?

My specs are (see bellow) and most of time I don't overclock.

I need something with LESS or same noise of 212 EVO. Also it needed to be the same size or less since the fan is almost touching the fan.

Any help is extremely appreciated, thanks.

i5-4670k
GIGABYTE Z87X-UD3H
GTX760
Fractal Design R4
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Well, my EVO212 fans are broken. Sometimes it was doing some weird noises so I tried to repair and fucked up :p

So I need something to replace the cooler, from what I could understand I can just replace the fan...

I build this PC 2 years ago and I'm surprised to see that this cooler is still recommended around here :O

Is worth upgrading to a Corsair H100i GTX ? Or buying a fan would be enough?

My specs are (see bellow) and most of time I don't overclock.

I need something with LESS or same noise of 212 EVO. Also it needed to be the same size or less since the fan is almost touching the fan.

Any help is extremely appreciated, thanks.

i5-4670k
GIGABYTE Z87X-UD3H
GTX760
Fractal Design R4

you can just replace the fan on the 212 if it's not working. i definitely wouldn't go out an buy a h100i just because the fan on the 212 is done and especially if you don't overclock.

this should do just fine. it is the same dimensions, speed, and noise as the stock 212 fans:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G28M8481
 
Any new PC tech coming out between now and October such as CPU's motherboards RAM etc? Know all about the GFX cards since the new ones are already out.

If not I will build my new pc in August.

edit: including monitors as well
 

XShagrath

Member
I just installed my Asus Strix 1080 (non-OC) and one of the fans is running all the time. When I look in MSI Afterburner or HWMonitor, it says the fans on the card are at 0%, but it's very loud and I opened the case, and sure enough, the fan nearest the back of the case is going full blast.

Any help would be appreciated. I already tried uninstalling/reinstalling drivers, and even went back to the previous driver release as well.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Any new PC tech coming out between now and October such as CPU's motherboards RAM etc? Know all about the GFX cards since the new ones are already out.

If not I will build my new pc in August.

edit: including monitors as well

if anything new does come out it won't necessarily be better than whatever is out just now. for example a new Z170 board that comes out in september (if there are any) won't be better than the ones that are out the now. same goes for RAM, storage, cases, psus, monitors.

the most important parts are your CPU and GPU. we've only got the 1070/1080 and 480 so far. there are still a lot to come out and probably won't calm down until about mid 2017. the new intel CPU's, kabylake, are coming out in 2016 as far as i know. maybe early 2017. we are on skylake at the moment. CPU's are basically hitting a brick wall right now. the difference between skylake and kabylake will be very little.
 

Shrennin

Didn't get the memo regarding the 14th Amendment
You saw my bit about using NCIX to buy your parts and have them build t for you right? Or you're really worried about doing it yourself I'd highly recommend it for peace of mind. I've always built my own computers so it's hard to not want to feel like saying "just build it!!!! It's easy." But I think I can understand your nervousness and you should do what you need/want in this circumstance. The parts may be slightly more expensive overall depending in various deals, but you won't have to put in the work and will have some security in knowing they'll take care of any issues. Friends and Gaffers that have used or have been very happy with it.

Yes! And thank you so much for telling me about NCIX, as that's perfect for what I want. I'll just have them do it for the warranty and peace of mind. Maybe in time, I'll learn to do it, but I can start out by upgrading this one when time comes.

So the reason I stepped you down to the $1600 build I had is because SLI solutions are rarely ever recommendable. There's alot of driver issues, most games don't scale well and it can just be a pain for a huge cost increase. It's much better to just save that extra money, sell off your 1080 down the line and keep buying a new GPU every few years. The performance will stay very very high and limit issues. In the long run you save money and get a better gradient in pefromance. Also unless you're desperate to play 4k/60hz it's largely overkill.

Interesting. Thanks! Based on your response (and the others below), I'll just go with the one 1080. I appreciate all this input. I'm not experienced at all when it comes to building a good PC as far as bang for buck.

I stepped you down to 16GB of ram because unless you do large scale compiling, virtual machines, rendering or video editing it's pointless and gives you no performance advantage. I've linked studies before but diminishing returns on RAM speed really starts to kick in post 2400mhz and most games see no benefit past like 2133. So 3000 is a safe bet you'll get all the performance you need for a long time.

The cheaper Mobo because it has mostly the same feature set and you're just saving by not going with the special gaming brand Mobo that's mainly setup for SLI uses which you wouldn't need. (Although mine will support it just fine too.)

These are great points, and while I want an extremely powerful PC, I do want to get the most for what I pay into it. I waited a long time to be able to essentially get whatever PC I want but I don't want to just waste money on it either.

Do not buy a $1000 SSD it's completely overkill get a 256-500GB SSD for OS and games that can use it and a 7200RPM HDD or Hybrid drive (SSD/HDD mix) for the vast majority of your files as many things don't need or see a tangible benefit from a SSD In reality.

That SSD was crazy, and I was actually considering going for a less expensive harddrive solution, so I will probably end up doing this.

The PSU is overkill, you don't need 850w with a single card (you don't even need 750w, but it's on sale). Power usage will only go down with future parts as well. So 750W will be adequate for a looooong time.

I never thought about that! I just wanted to make sure, that of all things, my PC wouldn't have heat issues.

Don't let the money burn a hole in your pocket because you have it. Billy's build was intended to be sarcastic to a point to show you how crazy you could get for the cost of the parts you were spending on that MSI machine. The performance difference between those two builds one which is 1/2 the price is much smaller than you think. Save the extra money and use it down the line to upgrade or buy a new top of the line machine when you feel you need an upgrade. Technology becomes outdated fairly fast and you can't beat time by buying super expensive, it just doesn't work.

This is awesome advice. I definitely wasn't going to buy anything before I got everyone's input here, and I'm glad I did. =D

I would advise against going SLI (not all games scale well with two graphics cards, and for those that do it's rarely even linear scaling), but it's your call. If you've got the money and want to go all-in on a PC, then go for it.

edit: you can also get faster RAM, I think

Y'all have convinced me to not go SLI, and I also need to look at monitors and whatnot so saving money by not getting two GPUs will make up for that.

i know i recommended that build to you but it was really only to show you what you could get for the price. if you're just gaming you don't really need 32GB ram or 2x 1080's. 16GB and a single 1080 is more than enough to last you many years yet. 2133mhz ram is the standard speed for DDR4 ram but don't buy sticks only capable of 2133. get ones that can do 3000 and just run them as fast as possible. most games won't see much a difference but the price between 2133 and 3000 is very small. as for SLI cards i personally tend to avoid using multiple GPU's as it can cause problems. a single card will work much better.

here is a revised build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($129.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($82.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 PRO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($847.89 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($699.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2501.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-16 15:18 EDT-0400

there are a couple things here i should mention. the CPU cooler is liquid cooled which is generally better than air cooling but of course more expensive. personally i'm happy with my Cooler Master Hyper 212X (air) cooler which costs only $25-30. you can get a decent CPU overclock with the 212X. i would only recommend liquid cooling if you want to get every last drop of performance out your CPU and want to keep it as cool as possible. of course also if you don't mind the thought of liquids being near such expensive parts. failures are very low in these All-in-1's but it's something i just avoid altogether.

Awesome! Thanks for this build. I actually do want liquid cooling, so I think I'll go with that but I appreciate your air cooling alternative. The room my PC would be in can get hot, so I want to make sure it'll be as cool as possible.

the motherboard in part comes down to personal preference. if you want to overclock it has to be a Z170. when it came to decided what motherboard to get i just got one that had all the ports i needed (so video/audio output, amount of usb ports, etc) and one that i thought looked cool.

for the GPU, this lists the EVGA founder's edition. don't buy a founder edition card. go for an aftermarket one with custom coolers by brands like EVGA, msi, asus, gigabyte etc.

while SSD prices are dropping lower and lower they are still quite expensive. figure out how much storage you are going to need. 2TB might be way too much. for me 1TB is more than enough. if you need a lot of storage, say 2TB+, but also want the benefits of an SSD then what a lot of people do is buy a small capacity SSD, 128-512GB, to install Windows + favourite games on and then get a mechanical 7200RPM HD that can hold 1/2/3/4TB to store other games and files. HDD's are way cheaper than SSD's.

as for the case, again it comes down to preference. what one looks nice, how big is it, how many fans can it hold, does it have space/support for liquid cooling, does it have enough HDD/ODD bays, does it have a built in fan controller, is it easy to clean, is cable management easy?

This is stuff I'll have to research to, and make sure I get the right parts that fit what I want/the look of it. My main concern is reliability, power, and manageability (ease to clean, cable management). I would rather have those things than have something that looks cool design wise.

Anyway, I'm going to look at all the new builds and suggestions, and I'll come back with the potential final build to see if there's anything that should be changed/fixed. I'm going to get NCIX to build it as well, so now I feel like I can really customize it without feeling like I have to worry about putting it together incorrectly.
 

joecanada

Member
How to find Xbox one wireless adapter online? I found it at like best buy and ms store but wanted it on Amazon couldn't find one anywhere on there maybe I put in the wrong search terms ?
 

BasicMath

Member
I'll ask one more time before doing it.

Any harm in installing the hyper 212 evo cooler onto the cpu/motherboard now and having it sit until my parts come tonight?
I don't think there would be an issue. I usually install small to medium coolers outside. I just find it easier to do so.

The only ones I do inside the case 100% of the time are big coolers like the Noctua-D14 or the Phanteks-PH-TC14PE or any AIOs. And that's mostly because it's easier to plug the cables BEFORE installing the gigantic beast onto the CPU. Try plugging in a 4+4CPU cable in a badly placed plug after installing one of those. It's a bitch.

Actually, installing outside used to be common procedure before. In my days, cases didn't have the opening in the back of the motherboard tray and you HAD to take out the mobo to install heatsinks like these.
 
I keep reading about X99 mobo issues and it's making me second guess my build. Is it worth going X99? I am going for streaming games like Battlefield, video editing and such. I am getting the 5820k and want to make sure it's worth it over a quad-core.
 
Not sure where to ask so I thought I'd ask here. I'm an AMD HD7850 and recently I keep getting an error while playing games that says driver crashed and reloaded. It's starting to happen a lot more recently even when I'm not even gaming anymore. Would anyone have any suggestions on what to do?
 

Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member
I keep reading about X99 mobo issues and it's making me second guess my build. Is it worth going X99? I am going for streaming games like Battlefield, video editing and such. I am getting the 5820k and want to make sure it's worth it over a quad-core.

I don't know if we're the majority or the minority, but when something goes wrong people tend to go to the Internet more than when things go right, at least that's how I feel. From what I'm getting gigabyte is the safe bet on x99. I'm not to happy with it, but as always experiences will vary. Battlefield, unlike a lot of games, has usually been a multithreaded heavy game instead of usually using 1 or 2 cores (AMD actually plays it well), steaming and video production will benefit from extra cores.
 
Do you have to pay for the benchmarking software? I'm curious how my new rig performs. Also, how do you tell what temp, fps, etc. that you are running while you are playing a game?
 
D

Deleted member 98878

Unconfirmed Member
Do you have to pay for the benchmarking software? I'm curious how my new rig performs. Also, how do you tell what temp, fps, etc. that you are running while you are playing a game?

Benchmark: 3D Mark Demo, Heaven Benchmark, Prime95
OSD: EVGA Precision, MSI Afterburner
 
I keep reading about X99 mobo issues and it's making me second guess my build. Is it worth going X99? I am going for streaming games like Battlefield, video editing and such. I am getting the 5820k and want to make sure it's worth it over a quad-core.

For what it's worth, I was in your position a few months ago when researching my X99 build. Most of the motherboards had negative reviews, DOAs, burning out components, etc. and it was putting me off.

In the end I still went X99, I just spent a bit more and got some EVGA parts, as their warranty and customer service have always been great (and they had what seemed like the only even distribution of good and bad reviews). MSI seemed to be the worst in terms or reviews, with ASUS a close second. ASRock seemed to be a bit middle of the road, but from the reviews their customer service wasn't really that great.

In the end, I went with an EVGA X99 Classified (for the better sound processing) and a 5820k. I couldn't be happier with their performance -- I'd highly recommend them both. The EVGA boards are more pricey than the others, but I went with it anyway for the rock-solid warranty/customer service in case anything went wrong.
 
The hyper 212 evo always cuts the ish out of my fingers every time I install one. Screwing in the bracket next to those katana like heat fins gets me every time.

Also for anyone who may buy one, the I/O shield with the asus z170-a is the worst one I've ever come across. Hardest part of the install.

Let's see if this baby posts later tonight!
 
I don't know if we're the majority or the minority, but when something goes wrong people tend to go to the Internet more than when things go right, at least that's how I feel. From what I'm getting gigabyte is the safe bet on x99. I'm not to happy with it, but as always experiences will vary. Battlefield, unlike a lot of games, has usually been a multithreaded heavy game instead of usually usually 1 or 2 cores (AMD actually plays it well), and steaming and and video production will benefit from extra cores.

Thanks so much! That information really helps me out.


For what it's worth, I was in your position a few months ago when researching my X99 build. Most of the motherboards had negative reviews, DOAs, burning out components, etc. and it was putting me off.

In the end I still went X99, I just spent a bit more and got some EVGA parts, as their warranty and customer service have always been great (and they had what seemed like the only even distribution of good and bad reviews). MSI seemed to be the worst in terms or reviews, with ASUS a close second. ASRock seemed to be a bit middle of the road, but from the reviews their customer service wasn't really that great.

In the end, I went with an EVGA X99 Classified (for the better sound processing) and a 5820k. I couldn't be happier with their performance -- I'd highly recommend them both. The EVGA boards are more pricey than the others, but I went with it anyway for the rock-solid warranty/customer service in case anything went wrong.

That calms my fears by a lot. All of the reviews for most boards reporting DOA's, faulty parts and such have scared the shit out of me. You weren't kidding with the EVGA prices, haha. $200+ different from my ASrock. If I have the extra dough, I will definitely buy the EVGA. Thanks so much!
 

Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member
Thanks so much! That information really helps me out.




That calms my fears by a lot. All of the reviews for most boards reporting DOA's, faulty parts and such have scared the shit out of me. You weren't kidding with the EVGA prices, haha. $200+ different from my ASrock. If I have the extra dough, I will definitely buy the EVGA. Thanks so much!

You also have to think of it as paying a premium for customer service and RMA practices that are second to none. It's worth it, I usually always buy EVGA when I can for these reasons.
 
Benchmark: 3D Mark Demo, Heaven Benchmark, Prime95
OSD: EVGA Precision, MSI Afterburner

Thanks. I ran the 3D Mark Demo (Time Spy) and got the following:

Graphics: 5893
CPU: 4747
Overall: 5687

A quick look around suggests my graphics and overall scores are in line with 1070 performance, but my CPU score seems really low. I'm running a i7 6700k.

Nothing is overclocked at this point.
 
That calms my fears by a lot. All of the reviews for most boards reporting DOA's, faulty parts and such have scared the shit out of me. You weren't kidding with the EVGA prices, haha. $200+ different from my ASrock. If I have the extra dough, I will definitely buy the EVGA. Thanks so much!
No problem. It was kind of stressing me out when I was picking parts, so if I can prevent someone else having to go through that I absolutely will.

For what it's worth, if you don't need the better sound processing (are okay with mid-range on-board, or are getting a soundcard) the EVGA X99 FTW K is basically the same as the Classified in all other normal aspects (it wasn't available when I got my board). It's $299, which should put it much closer to that ASRock in terms of price.

Just be careful -- the 24-pin power connector is right-angled, not vertical, so it can cause some issues with case layouts. I only ran into the issue due to fitting an E-ATX board into a Fractal R5 (which doesn't really support it) but it should be fine if you use an appropriately sized case.

If you are going for M-ATX, there's a smaller EVGA board as well that's significantly cheaper. You can check out all three boards here.
 

BasicMath

Member
I keep reading about X99 mobo issues and it's making me second guess my build. Is it worth going X99? I am going for streaming games like Battlefield, video editing and such. I am getting the 5820k and want to make sure it's worth it over a quad-core.
Just remember that the people with issues will always be far more vocal than those without.

I just went through a massive 70page Fury X thread on the AMD boards. I got linked all the time to it as proof of there being awful widespread issues with the card. The reality is that there were something like 70-80 people with the issues scattered throughout the thread. The same people on page 1-3 were on the last pages still complaining.

And I'm going to echo the EVGA recommendation. I just went through a couple of RMAs with them (none related to x99) and they were blazing fast with their response.
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
Not sure where to ask so I thought I'd ask here. I'm an AMD HD7850 and recently I keep getting an error while playing games that says driver crashed and reloaded. It's starting to happen a lot more recently even when I'm not even gaming anymore. Would anyone have any suggestions on what to do?

Suggestion: Buy a new GPU before the one you have dies completely.
 
Thanks so much! That information really helps me out.




That calms my fears by a lot. All of the reviews for most boards reporting DOA's, faulty parts and such have scared the shit out of me. You weren't kidding with the EVGA prices, haha. $200+ different from my ASrock. If I have the extra dough, I will definitely buy the EVGA. Thanks so much!

Just avoid the Corsair LGX Vengeance sticks for now. The vast majority of issues I see on X99 boards are memory failure issues somehow. Many after doing an exhaustive searched used the kit I did and many more also resolved it by switching memory sets even though there was technically nothing wrong with the memory. Seems like some bios level issue for many with tight compatibility requirements or just issues with that kit.

Yes it also didn't seem to matter which X99 Mobo it was but I'd also steer clear of the MSI X99a SLI Plus Mobo just in case.
 
Post successful! Currently installing windows from a usb boot drive onto an ssd.

For anyone looking for a case, the NZXT s340 is pretty amazing. Only issue I have is that some of the screws and holes don't seem to be machined perfectly and were giving me a bit of trouble. Otherwise an excellent case.

I5-6600k
Cooler Master Hyper evo 212 cooler
Asus Z170-a motherboard
Evga GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0
16gb Gskill DDR4 3000mhz
EVGA 750w GQ psu
PNY 500gb ssd
WD Caviar black 1TB HDD

I just need to add a fan or two to the front of the s340. Doesn't come with any intake fans.
 
Post successful! Currently installing windows from a usb boot drive onto an ssd.

For anyone looking for a case, the NZXT s340 is pretty amazing. Only issue I have is that some of the screws and holes don't seem to be machined perfectly and were giving me a bit of trouble. Otherwise an excellent case.

I5-6600k
Cooler Master Hyper evo 212 cooler
Asus Z170-a motherboard
Evga GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0
16gb Gskill DDR4 3000mhz
EVGA 750w GQ psu
PNY 500gb ssd
WD Caviar black 1TB HDD

I just need to add a fan or two to the front of the s340. Doesn't come with any intake fans.

Nice job! I used the same case for my build. Which color did you get? I went with the white case; my wife insisted on it. And I got some NZXT 120mm fans for the front intakes.
 
Just avoid the Corsair LGX Vengeance sticks for now. The vast majority of issues I see on X99 boards are memory failure issues somehow. Many after doing an exhaustive searched used the kit I did and many more also resolved it by switching memory sets even though there was technically nothing wrong with the memory. Seems like some bios level issue for many with tight compatibility requirements or just issues with that kit.

Yes it also didn't seem to matter which X99 Mobo it was but I'd also steer clear of the MSI X99a SLI Plus Mobo just in case.

Yeah, from what everyone is telling me and what I am reading all over, MSI is the worst of the mobos, so I will stear far from them.
 

lionpants

Member
I've started noticing that the CPU is the bottle neck in recent games I'm playing.

My current CPU...

Intel i5-2500K

- Should I upgrade within the same socket?
- Should I upgrade to a new socket & board with DDR4?

Which CPU is most popular in either case?
 

wowzors

Member
I've started noticing that the CPU is the bottle neck in recent games I'm playing.

My current CPU...

Intel i5-2500K

- Should I upgrade within the same socket?
- Should I upgrade to a new socket & board with DDR4?

Which CPU is most popular in either case?

There isn't a great updgrade for the 2500k on the same socket its pretty much near the top of the line for any gains you would get.

New socket and board would be the way to go, however the 2500k still does pretty good and its hard to recommend that big of an investment for such minimal gains.

Do you have it OC'd to 4.5?
 
Suggestion: Buy a new GPU before the one you have dies completely.

Any suggestions for something under $200? I don't need anything super fancy, the only games I play are Overwatch and Street Fighter V and I feel like the HD 7850 has been fine this entire time for me.
 

lionpants

Member
There isn't a great updgrade for the 2500k on the same socket its pretty much near the top of the line for any gains you would get.

New socket and board would be the way to go, however the 2500k still does pretty good and its hard to recommend that big of an investment for such minimal gains.

Do you have it OC'd to 4.5?
I've tried OC'ing it, but the BIOS keeps reporting that OC is unstable and I have to keep configuring the OC every time I boot up the PC even though it seems to run fine in games (occasional BSOD here and there). Pretty annoying.

Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3R-B3

Maybe I'm missing a setting to increase stability? I also have an aftermarket cooler on it (xigmatek I think), so I tried boosting the voltage way up. Same problem.
 
Nice job! I used the same case for my build. Which color did you get? I went with the white case; my wife insisted on it. And I got some NZXT 120mm fans for the front intakes.

I got the black case but wanted the white :(

All of my parts were scheduled to arrive today, and only the black case was in stock on Amazon (white said 1-2 days processing). I couldn't wait so I got the black.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom