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[dragn]

Thanks!

This will definitely be my first real try at PC gaming and I'm excited. I would like to eventually try VR out and whatnot, so I also wanted to make sure my PC could handle that as well.

small ssd for windows and a non founders edition 1080 would be perfect

 

[Azzanadra]

Hey guys, quick question as I am going to Canada computers in a little- I am finally deciding to upgrade my 10 year old 900p monitor and want to get a 1080p one, I am willing to spend a maximum of $200, maybe just a little more. So the monitors recommended on this page for that price range are the ASUS VS238H-P and the ASUS VS239H-P.

Another monitor I have found with good reviews in regards to gaming is the benq rl2455hm (although I have heard this one is mainly for console gaming...). This monitor is a bit pricier but I am willing to spend the extra if need be. Is the above monitor superior to the suggested ASUS monitors, or no? Also, out of the ASUS monitors suggested, which one is superior?

TBH I just want the best monitor for maximum I am willing to spend ($220), so any other suggestions are appreciated.

 

[pinkurocket]

Okay guys this is the build I'm looking at to buy, but I'm still unsure about the motherboard. It's either the one mentioned below or an 'Asus Z170 Pro Gaming,' or a different one altogether if any of you have a suggestion. And from what I can tell, these don't have a Wi-fi module, so what should I buy additionally to get Wi-fi capabilities?

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.70 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($459.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.95 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.49 @ Newegg)

 

[Aztechnology]

So I had to change parts around because I want NCIXUS to build my computer and they didn't have all the parts I was looking at. I think I'm done though, so if everyone doesn't mind, could I get thoughts on the final build before I buy it? I might get rid of the fans, and I wasn't sure if the cooling system I chose is the best available on NCIX, or if the ASUS version of the GTX 1080, or the RAM is good either. I also wanted to get a wireless network card just in case there is ever a time I'm not close enough to do a wired connection, and I don't think that motherboard has wifi (but I could be wrong):

Final (maybe) build -- parts are all on NCIXUS:

CPU
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
$345.88 Buy

CPU Cooler
Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
$59.99 Buy

Thermal Compound
Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste
$5.95 Buy

Motherboard
Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
$214.99 Buy

Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
$63.99 Buy

Storage
Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
$196.99 Buy

Video Card
Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card
$699.99 Buy

Case
Corsair 760T White V2 ATX Full Tower Case
$169.99 Buy

Power Supply
Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
$57.98 Buy

Optical Drive
Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer
$54.98 Buy

Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
$85.95 Buy

Wireless Network Adapter
Asus PCE-N15 PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter
$17.99 Buy

Case Fans
Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$18.96 Buy

Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$18.96 Buy
Total: $2719.39

Whoa whoa that HDD is overpriced as hell or am I crazy? Seems like a hefty premium for having 4TB all on one drive considering its just 7200RPM.

Other than that looks good!

 

[Saintruski]

Whoa whoa that HDD is overpriced as hell or am I crazy?

No your not, the 4TB 7200 HGST drives I buy can usually be gotten much cheaper (~150) as they are alway on sale. But it's their Black line so it has a longer warranty than the blues, maybe a few other things, so I guess that's the price.

 

[g11]

No your not, the 4TB 7200 HGST drives I buy can usually be gotten much cheaper (~150) as they are alway on sale. But it's their Black line so it has a longer warranty than the blues, maybe a few other things, so I guess that's the price.

WD Blacks also have lower seek time and faster read/write than Blues. Bigger cache too IIRC.

 

[Woorloog]

My goddamn PC died. Problem unknown. I didn't see what happened, the power kept on but the display doesn't show anything, and oddly, KB/M do not light up, not even when clicking them (usually, they light up even if the PC is shutdown and PSU power switch is on).
Removed R9 390 and plugged cables (different ones) to mobo but not getting image still.
All fans work. There has been some odd noise for a couple of weeks, and i still hear it if i turn the PC on; probably just coil-whine though. Only SSD, so all noise-makers are accounted for.
Temps have been normal as far as i can determine and the computer does not shutdown so it cannot be a CPU-heat problem, probably.

Do we have actual troubleshooting thread?
I know this isn't really the place for problems on PCs that worked fine for 8 months. But i need to vent a bit....

 

[Jyrii]

Do we have actual troubleshooting thread?
I know this isn't really the place for problems on PCs that worked fine for 8 months. But i need to vent a bit....

This is the closest one: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377301

It's not hugely active, but still probably the best existing thread for troubleshooting.

 

[The Hamburglar]

Need some advice on these builds. I was planning on building my own with parts but I have found a prebuilt one which has a better cpu for cheaper...

this is the prebuilt http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Z170-I7-6...G3-/121761660449?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Case : Galaxy 3 Modern Midi Tower Case
Power Supply : Branded EVGA 80+ (Plus) Rated 500W Power Supply
Motherboard : Gigabyte Z170-HD3P (supports new 6th Gen Skylake CPU)
CPU : Intel I7 Skylake 6700K 6th Gen Quad Core CPU 4.0Ghz (4.2Ghz Turbo)
Hard Drive : 120gb Solid State Drive
Memory : 16gb DDR4 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance Memory
Graphics Card : Onboard Intergrated (DVI / VGA)
Optical Drive : 24x Dual Layer DVD Writer
Warranty : 12 Months Return To Base (Parts & Labour)
Connections : 2 x USB 2.0 Rear + 4 x Rear USB 3.0 + 1 x USB 3.1 + Front USB 2 or 3 if case supports / LAN /


What's people opinions on that motherboard, doesn't seem amazing but looks like it gets the job done, can you OC on it? What about the case?

Here is the parts I picked which cost more for what I was going to build myself.

Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor

Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

Kingston FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory

Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive

Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case

EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply


Both builds are missing a cooler and GFX card on purpose as I decide what brand to go with.

 

[Woorloog]

This is the closest one: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377301

It's not hugely active, but still probably the best existing thread for troubleshooting.

Thanks, i forgot that thing existed.

 

[Quicksilver4648]

Hey, I have a quick audio question that hopefully someone might be able to shed some light on. My PC has a Creative Sound Blaster Recon3D PCIe sound card that is connected to my receiver through S/PDIF TOSLINK. From my understanding S/PDIF has a maximum bandwidth support of 24 bit / 48k Hz. While it does sound good to the ears it isn't the highest quality home audio available. If I route my audio through my nVidia GPU via HDMI the audio is 24 bit / 192k Hz which is great. However, if I use the GPU HDMI route the audio quality simply isn't as good. Maybe I am just crazy but the audio just doesn't sound as "clean" and the "punch" from the speakers aren't as strong. From what I've read integrated audio (motherboard or GPU) simply can't match the quality of a discrete sound card.

So here is my question: What is the best best method to output PC audio at 24 bit / 192k Hz from a discrete sound card? I would prefer to not buy a super expensive sound card that has a dedicated HDMI output.

HDMI audio is bit perfect.
The only reason it may sound worse is if you are resampling the source content a massive amount, eg 44.1khz to 192khz.
Try the WASAPI audio output - it bypasses the Windows mixer.

I figured out my issue. When audio is output through HDMI the quality is 24 bit / 192k hz but the audio is 100% untouched, which can be good or bad depending on your opinion. My sound card includes this software called THX TruStudio Pro which, in my opinion, actually does make the audio sound better. However, I can't get TruStudio Pro to work nVidia GPU HDMI audio or my motherboard's integrated Realtek HD audio. So I am given a choice. Either A) listen to "improved" audio at 24 bit / 48k Hz or B) listen to untouched audio at 24 bit / 192k Hz.

 

[mhayze]

My goddamn PC died. Problem unknown. I didn't see what happened, the power kept on but the display doesn't show anything, and oddly, KB/M do not light up, not even when clicking them (usually, they light up even if the PC is shutdown and PSU power switch is on).
Removed R9 390 and plugged cables (different ones) to mobo but not getting image still.
All fans work. There has been some odd noise for a couple of weeks, and i still hear it if i turn the PC on; probably just coil-whine though. Only SSD, so all noise-makers are accounted for.
Temps have been normal as far as i can determine and the computer does not shutdown so it cannot be a CPU-heat problem, probably.

Do we have actual troubleshooting thread?
I know this isn't really the place for problems on PCs that worked fine for 8 months. But i need to vent a bit....

Sorry to hear about your PC issues - it's a bad feeling, particularly if it's your only PC and / or no access to applicable spare parts. From your post it sounded like the fans still work, which does indicate that the PC is still getting power from the PSU - do you know if you mobo has diagnostic lights? Lookup the user manual and see if it does (most do) and the diag lights should tell you if it's getting past CPU/RAM check.

If there are no lights, it's probably the motherboard, although still an outside chance that PSU is bad too.

If there are lights on the mobo, and you have a desktop CPU that also has a working integrated GPU, do you know if there's any POST information coming through from the iGPU's output, now that the R9 is out?

 

[Woorloog]

PSU power LEDs on the mobo works, as usual.
Other LEDs are unlit... per manual, that means things are working. Lit LED means a problem apparently. EDIT oh, right, don't think the LEDs even blinked while powering the PC on. Which would mean the POST wasn't run at all, right?
That said, MemTest refused to run (no blinking LED) but i might have pressed the button for too short time, or too long. Will try it tomorrow properly.

Sigh... there's so much stuff in the manual, need time and energy to go through everything relevant.

 

[LostMyNarbles]

snip

My biggest issue with that prebuilt PC is that the power supply looks pretty terrible. It looks like an entry level power supply and it probably will not be enough power for that build depending on what video card would go into it. Also, I just would not want to stick a cheap power supply like that into a build with expensive parts like the i5-6600k and Z170. That motherboard looks "okay" in the sense that you'd be able to overclock on it without issue, but on Newegg in only has 3/5 with a lot of reviews complaining that it was either defective or broke out of the blue. Another thing to note is that the system doesn't include a storage drive which would add to the cost of it thus it will appear cheaper than your own built system.

 

[ekgrey]

So I've been having some issues. I'm 90% sure it's my GPU, but I wanted to solicit opinions before dealing with an RMA.

I upgraded earlier this summer to:
i5-6600K (no OC)
Gigabyte Z170N-Gaming 5 mobo
16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 (no OC)

Using my old XFX 650W PSU.

I hadn't had any issues since the rebuild, but I also had barely had any time to game on it. Last week, my Gigabyte G1 1070 arrived and I cleared some time for gaming again. Mostly, it's been a joy. But three times now, once in GTA5, twice just on the desktop or in Chrome, the screen went black and the fans spun up to 100% jet engine level. It took pressing the reset button on my tower to get things straightened out.

In addition, I've now had a handful of hard resets. Interestingly, I've had no problem in Wolfenstein: TNO, SW:BF, Doom or any of a number of other demanding titles, with the exception of GTA5. I just can't play it because within ten minutes, regardless of what's happening on-screen, my whole PC will restart. Oh, and now the demo for the new System Shock. Screen and lights on the mobo go black and a couple seconds later the system restarts.

I'm guessing the factory OC is too high on the 1070? I am not really interested in downclocking, as I want the advertised speed as a bare minimum (I would have been playing with OCing by now had this not started) so I guess I need to start the RMA process with Newegg.

Also, I've tried running Furmark three times since this started. First time, I got the hard reset within a couple seconds. Second time it actually completed. Third time I got the hard reset within maybe eight seconds.

So whatcha think, GAF? My GPU fucked? Is there a chance it's the PSU or even the RAM or mobo? (Please god no...)

edit: should note, before those resets, the fans on the GPU don't spin up, unlike the first issue. Very quiet.

 

[mysocksarepink]

so i'm building my friend a PC, 6600k cpu build.

Any good mobo + ram combos out right now for 175$-225$?

 

[super-famicom]

Hey guys, quick question as I am going to Canada computers in a little- I am finally deciding to upgrade my 10 year old 900p monitor and want to get a 1080p one, I am willing to spend a maximum of $200, maybe just a little more. So the monitors recommended on this page for that price range are the ASUS VS238H-P and the ASUS VS239H-P.

Another monitor I have found with good reviews in regards to gaming is the benq rl2455hm (although I have heard this one is mainly for console gaming...). This monitor is a bit pricier but I am willing to spend the extra if need be. Is the above monitor superior to the suggested ASUS monitors, or no? Also, out of the ASUS monitors suggested, which one is superior?

TBH I just want the best monitor for maximum I am willing to spend ($220), so any other suggestions are appreciated.

I have the VS-239H-P and used it for my PS4 for a long time. It was great and I had no issues with FPS multiplayer games.

You can also look into the ViewSonic VX2770SMH-LED (27", $219 on USA Amazon) or the BenQ VZ2470H (24", $179 on USA Amazon). I've been looking into these two since my wife uses my Asus for streaming YouTube and Netflix.

Personally, I would go for IPS and not TN monitors, since I favor better colors over input lag. The two monitors I mentioned are IPS and AMVA, respectively.

 

[rbrogue]

So whatcha think, GAF? My GPU fucked? Is there a chance it's the PSU or even the RAM or mobo? (Please god no...)

Not an expert but, If the fans kicked up like crazy my first suggestion would be to keep an eye on the temperature of your GPU first, and second check to see if there are any new drivers for your card. I've seen some reports of GTAV~ related crashes on Reddit but don't have a 1070 to confirm with.

If new drivers don't help or aren't available and your temps are fine, my guess is that yeah the card is bad. I would RMA it at that point. I don't think anything else in your PC would be the culprit.

 

[Kieli]

Do I need some sort of special software to play blu-ray discs on my computer?...

When I put the disc in, I can navigate the files just fine but I can't seem to find a button to start the show.

 

[ekgrey]

Not an expert but, If the fans kicked up like crazy my first suggestion would be to keep an eye on the temperature of your GPU first, and second check to see if there are any new drivers for your card. I've seen some reports of GTAV~ related crashes on Reddit but don't have a 1070 to confirm with.

If new drivers don't help or aren't available and your temps are fine, my guess is that yeah the card is bad. I would RMA it at that point. I don't think anything else in your PC would be the culprit.

Drivers are all up-to-date. I use GeForce Experience and download new drivers as soon as I notice they're available. What's the best program to monitor temps while in-game?

Do I need some sort of special software to play blu-ray discs on my computer?...

When I put the disc in, I can navigate the files just fine but I can't seem to find a button to start the show.

Yes, you do. Yes, it is bullshit.

 

[Aztechnology]

so i'm building my friend a PC, 6600k cpu build.

Any good mobo + ram combos out right now for 175$-225$?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $143.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-17 21:06 EDT-0400

These should work. Or you can look through additional compatible Mono's by adding your CPU.

Or this guy
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?i..., LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10446076&PID=3938566

 

[Mystic654]

Do I need some sort of special software to play blu-ray discs on my computer?...

When I put the disc in, I can navigate the files just fine but I can't seem to find a button to start the show.

Yes, Cyberlink PowerDVD is the most popular followed by WinDVD Pro.

Most retail Blu-Ray drives come with some sort of Blu-Ray software packaged in.

 

[Azzanadra]

I have the VS-239H-P and used it for my PS4 for a long time. It was great and I had no issues with FPS multiplayer games.

You can also look into the ViewSonic VX2770SMH-LED (27", $219 on USA Amazon) or the BenQ VZ2470H (24", $179 on USA Amazon). I've been looking into these two since my wife uses my Asus for streaming YouTube and Netflix.

Personally, I would go for IPS and not TN monitors, since I favor better colors over input lag. The two monitors I mentioned are IPS and AMVA, respectively.

That ViewSonic looks nice, trouble is, its way outside my price range thanks to the value of our Canadian dollar :/ The BenQ is TN, no? It looks real fancy, i'l grant it that but I kind of what IPS know that I have read up a bit on it. I guess I will go for the ASUS, only trouble is getting the monitor as it seems very much out of stock in the nearby stores. Any better IPS monitors for a similar price, especially considering this monitor has been recommended since the inception of this OT? I mean I will just get the ASUS if its the best, but another option would be great.

 

[Vigilant Walrus]

So I had to change parts around because I want NCIXUS to build my computer and they didn't have all the parts I was looking at. I think I'm done though, so if everyone doesn't mind, could I get thoughts on the final build before I buy it? I might get rid of the fans, and I wasn't sure if the cooling system I chose is the best available on NCIX, or if the ASUS version of the GTX 1080, or the RAM is good either. I also wanted to get a wireless network card just in case there is ever a time I'm not close enough to do a wired connection, and I don't think that motherboard has wifi (but I could be wrong):

Final (maybe) build -- parts are all on NCIXUS:

CPU
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
$345.88 Buy

CPU Cooler
Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
$59.99 Buy

Thermal Compound
Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste
$5.95 Buy

Motherboard
Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
$214.99 Buy

Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
$63.99 Buy

Storage
Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
$196.99 Buy

Video Card
Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card
$699.99 Buy

Case
Corsair 760T White V2 ATX Full Tower Case
$169.99 Buy

Power Supply
Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
$57.98 Buy

Optical Drive
Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer
$54.98 Buy

Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
$85.95 Buy

Wireless Network Adapter
Asus PCE-N15 PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter
$17.99 Buy

Case Fans
Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$18.96 Buy

Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$18.96 Buy
Total: $2719.39

Why a founders edition graphics card?

why an optical drive?

why no SSD?

Why a Hero (are you going to use the features of that expensive Mobo)?



If I were you, i'd get a cheaper Mobo (with Ethernetport)), a cheaper case and I'd drop the optical drive(bloat), wireless card(bloat) and swap the Hard drive for a SSD and the founders edition for a reference 1080. I'd imagine the MSI with twin frozor would be good. Or the Asus one.

Hell, you'd might have money for something better than a H60 too!


It's just hard to recommend building this sort of build without a SSD for the operating system. Having an SSD is such a dramatic difference.

 

[Lonely1]

Is there any substantial difference on a power source being rated copper, silver or gold?

 

[Vipu]

Why a founders edition graphics card?

why an optical drive?

why no SSD?

Why a Hero (are you going to use the features of that expensive Mobo)?



If I were you, i'd get a cheaper Mobo (with Ethernetport)), a cheaper case and I'd drop the optical drive(bloat), wireless card(bloat) and swap the Hard drive for a SSD and the founders edition for a reference 1080. I'd imagine the MSI with twin frozor would be good. Or the Asus one.

Hell, you'd might have money for something better than a H60 too!


It's just hard to recommend building this sort of build without a SSD for the operating system. Having an SSD is such a dramatic difference.

I agree with this, SSD is must for this kind of machine.
If it was super cheap budget PC then you might want to skip SSD, but this is clearly not that.

 

[vector824]

Okay guys this is the build I'm looking at to buy, but I'm still unsure about the motherboard. It's either the one mentioned below or an 'Asus Z170 Pro Gaming,' or a different one altogether if any of you have a suggestion. And from what I can tell, these don't have a Wi-fi module, so what should I buy additionally to get Wi-fi capabilities?

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.70 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($459.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.95 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.49 @ Newegg)

ASUS and Gigabyte are good brands for mobos, it should be fine. You don't need 3200mhz RAM though. Go for anything between 2400 and 3000, there are no gains really beyond 2400 and definitely none above 3000 when gaming. Just get a PCIe wifi card or use ethernet and you're good to go, this is a good one. I LOVE my S340 case.

Need some advice on these builds. I was planning on building my own with parts but I have found a prebuilt one which has a better cpu for cheaper...

this is the prebuilt http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Z170-I7-6...G3-/121761660449?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Case : Galaxy 3 Modern Midi Tower Case
Power Supply : Branded EVGA 80+ (Plus) Rated 500W Power Supply
Motherboard : Gigabyte Z170-HD3P (supports new 6th Gen Skylake CPU)
CPU : Intel I7 Skylake 6700K 6th Gen Quad Core CPU 4.0Ghz (4.2Ghz Turbo)
Hard Drive : 120gb Solid State Drive
Memory : 16gb DDR4 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance Memory
Graphics Card : Onboard Intergrated (DVI / VGA)
Optical Drive : 24x Dual Layer DVD Writer
Warranty : 12 Months Return To Base (Parts & Labour)
Connections : 2 x USB 2.0 Rear + 4 x Rear USB 3.0 + 1 x USB 3.1 + Front USB 2 or 3 if case supports / LAN /


What's people opinions on that motherboard, doesn't seem amazing but looks like it gets the job done, can you OC on it? What about the case?

Here is the parts I picked which cost more for what I was going to build myself.

Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor

Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

Kingston FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory

Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive

Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case

EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply


Both builds are missing a cooler and GFX card on purpose as I decide what brand to go with.

The top build isn't bad, but that case looks cheap. I'd personally go with what you picked out, because I have close to the same setup with an RX480 and it's very fast.

 

[scitek]

I have an old 500W PSU (bought in 2012), and I just got a new case today. I didn't get any new components, but the case did come with a couple new 120mm fans. Earlier today, the PC was working fine in the old case, but now anytime I try to turn the PC on in the new one, it starts to turn on and then just...doesn't. I can feel air coming from the rear fan for a brief second so it's trying to fire up, and the green light on the motherboard is on, indicating it has power.

Just wanted to check to see if you guys think it sounds like the problem is the power supply like I'm thinking, so I can go ahead and order a new one.

 

[super-famicom]

That ViewSonic looks nice, trouble is, its way outside my price range thanks to the value of our Canadian dollar :/ The BenQ is TN, no? It looks real fancy, i'l grant it that but I kind of what IPS know that I have read up a bit on it. I guess I will go for the ASUS, only trouble is getting the monitor as it seems very much out of stock in the nearby stores. Any better IPS monitors for a similar price, especially considering this monitor has been recommended since the inception of this OT? I mean I will just get the ASUS if its the best, but another option would be great.

The BenQ is AMVA, according to the Tom's Hardware review.

The VZ2470H's unique styling is bound to attract buyers but we think users should also take a close look at the AMVA panel part used here. It's made by AU Optronics and boasts a native and unenhanced contrast ratio of over 3000:1 as confirmed by our measurements. AMVA works on the same principle as IPS but adds a superior light valve to the mix. That means when the crystals are oriented to block the backlight, they prevent nearly all transmission of light resulting in significantly lower black levels than other LCD technologies.

 

[Shrennin]

small ssd for windows and a non founders edition 1080 would be perfect

I actually got a 1TB SSD in addition to that 4TB drive before I purchased it. I would have done a non founders 1080, but NCIX only had that Asus founders from what I could tell, and I wanted them to build the PC as well so all parts had to be ordered through them.

Whoa whoa that HDD is overpriced as hell or am I crazy? Seems like a hefty premium for having 4TB all on one drive considering its just 7200RPM.

Other than that looks good!

That 4TB was expensive, but it looked like that series of hard drives was pretty good so I decided to get a good one.

Why a founders edition graphics card?

I wanted NCIX to build it, and they only had that one 1080 in stock and the site wouldn't let me add any others.

why an optical drive?

I was going back and forth but I want Blu-Ray capabilities with it.

why no SSD?

I actually went with a 1TB SSD earlier today so I should be good there.

Why a Hero (are you going to use the features of that expensive Mobo)?

I probably should have gone with a cheaper Mobo but it's too late now unfortunately.

It's just hard to recommend building this sort of build without a SSD for the operating system. Having an SSD is such a dramatic difference.

Dragn and you have both mentioned that SSDs are good for the OS. Could you explain why it's better to have the OS on an SSD specifically? Should I use my 4TB hard drive for everything else and reserve the SSD just for the OS?

 

[Azzanadra]

The BenQ is AMVA, according to the Tom's Hardware review.

Noob question, but is AMVA superior to IPS? Whats the general difference between the two?

 

[chaosblade]

Dragn and you have both mentioned that SSDs are good for the OS. Could you explain why it's better to have the OS on an SSD specifically? Should I use my 4TB hard drive for everything else and reserve the SSD just for the OS?

It impacts your boot time significantly, and the OS is what is always running in the background. Having it on the SSD just makes everything snappier than loading off a slow HDD.

Seriously, once you experience the difference you will never be able to go back.

 

[super-famicom]

Noob question, but is AMVA superior to IPS? Whats the general difference between the two?

I just found out about AMVA last night when I was researching monitors. This site explains a bit about each panel type.

If an LCD monitor is trying to display black then the colour filter will be positioned such that as little light as possible (of any colour) from the backlight will get through. Most LCD monitors will do a reasonable job at this but the filter isn’t perfect and so the blacks may not appear as deep as they should. A definite strength of the VA panel is its efficiency at blocking light from the backlight when it’s not wanted. This gives deeper blacks and higher contrast ratios of around 2000:1 – 5000:1 with ‘dynamic contrast’ modes disabled – several times higher than that of the other LCD technologies. They are also less susceptible to ‘bleed’ or ‘clouding’ towards the edges of the screen which can make such screens good candidates for movie lovers and nice to use for general purpose work.


The BenQ GW series – modern VA panel monitors
Another key advantage of VA is the improved viewing angles and colour reproduction compared to TN. The shift in colour across the screen and ‘off angle’ is less pronounced whilst shades can be produced with greater precision. In this respect they are better candidates for ‘colour critical work’ but they are not as strong in this area as the IPS or PLS technologies explored subsequently. There is generally a weakening of saturation when comparing a shade in the centre of the screen vs. that same shade towards the edges or bottom of the screen, from a normal viewing angle. There is also a shift in gamma that is most noticeable on greys but can also be observed on other shades, with said shade appearing to lighten or darken quite readily with even slight head movement.

It isn’t cost that has traditionally been the main weakness of the VA panel as they are typically fairly affordable with a good modern range available from companies such as Philips, Iiyama, BenQ and Samsung. The real weakness comes in their relatively low level of responsiveness with pixels transitioning from one state to another relatively slowly – leading to more pronounced blurring during fast motion. In some severe cases things can appear to ‘smear’ into a smoke-like trail as demonstrated in the video below, taken on a BenQ EW2430.


Some of the modern VA panel types used on PC monitors include MVA (Multi-domain Vertical Alignment), AMVA (Advanced MVA) or AMVA+ (AMVA with slightly enhanced viewing angles). Recent AMVA(+) models generally use effective pixel overdrive and don’t suffer from these extensive ‘smoke-like’ trails. They are actually on par with modern IPS models during some pixel transitions. Other pixel transitions, typically between light colours and dark bold colours, are still relatively slow – but not to the extent demonstrated in the video above. We were also rather impressed by the performance of the Samsung S34E790C, which generally performed better than one of its IPS counterparts (the Dell U3415W) when it came to responsiveness.

One of the key VA producers, AU Optronics (AUO), was actually working on some 120Hz VA panels which could have enhanced responsiveness whilst allowing ‘3D active shutter’ technologies to be used. These were discontinued and never saw the light of day. They have also created a 35″ ‘UltraWide’ VA panel with 144Hz refresh rate, something that did see the light of day and is used in the likes of the BenQ XR3501. Sharp have some specialist MVA panels used on a few models including the FG2421 that natively support 120Hz. Doubling the refresh rate alone is only so good if the pixels can’t really keep up, though. To help overcome these limitations these monitors also employ a strobe backlight combined with frame rate doubling (something called ‘Turbo240’) to essentially hide a lot of the pixel transition behaviour and reduce eye-tracking motion blur. These concepts are discussed in detail in our dedicated responsiveness article.

TLDR: AMVA has better viewing angles and color reproduction than TN panels but not quite as good as IPS in shades of color. Earlier AMVA panels suffered from pixel blurring during fast transitions, but AMVA+ panels use effective pixel overdrive to avoid blurring and can be on par with modern IPS panels.

Still doing some research, since I'm shopping around for a new monitor.

edit-

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/panel_technologies.htm

Positives
Contrast ratios very high with >3000:1 common in practice
Response times adequate for most users and vastly improved over older generations of MVA
8-bit colour depth
Some non- AUO manufactured versions now support 120Hz refresh rate
Some non- AUO manufactured versions paired with blur reduction backlights
Negatives
Response time still normally slow compared with TN Film and IPS offerings.
Off-centre contrast shift inherent to all MVA panel generations. Not ideal for colour critical work
Viewing angles not as wide as IPS/PLS. Some improvements in very recent generations
No current 10-bit panels

 

[Mystic654]

So I had to change parts around because I want NCIXUS to build my computer and they didn't have all the parts I was looking at. I think I'm done though, so if everyone doesn't mind, could I get thoughts on the final build before I buy it? I might get rid of the fans, and I wasn't sure if the cooling system I chose is the best available on NCIX, or if the ASUS version of the GTX 1080, or the RAM is good either. I also wanted to get a wireless network card just in case there is ever a time I'm not close enough to do a wired connection, and I don't think that motherboard has wifi (but I could be wrong):

Final (maybe) build -- parts are all on NCIXUS:

CPU
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
$345.88 Buy

CPU Cooler
Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
$59.99 Buy

Thermal Compound
Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste
$5.95 Buy

Motherboard
Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
$214.99 Buy

Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
$63.99 Buy

Storage
Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
$196.99 Buy

Video Card
Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card
$699.99 Buy

Case
Corsair 760T White V2 ATX Full Tower Case
$169.99 Buy

Power Supply
Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
$57.98 Buy

Optical Drive
Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer
$54.98 Buy

Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
$85.95 Buy

Wireless Network Adapter
Asus PCE-N15 PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter
$17.99 Buy

Case Fans
Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$18.96 Buy

Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$18.96 Buy
Total: $2719.39

I would change the WD Black Drive. They will get noisy & Blacks are way overpriced for what you get. If you don't want a SSD then try a SSHD drive.

My One Setup is SSD (OS) + SSHD (For my games) - Zero Noise.

You don't need Thermal Compound, Corsair Hydro comes pre-applied.

I would also grab Alpha Hero over just Plain Hero. You get a better built-in WiFi then what your buying.

Since your getting a 760T Case I would go with a bigger Radiator(240 or 280) then a single 120 radiator with Corsair H60.

Maybe upgrade the case to 780T, 760T is a cheap case.

 

[Saintruski]

I would change the WD Black Drive. They will get noisy & Blacks are way overpriced for what you get. If you don't want a SSD then try a SSHD drive.

My One Setup is SSD (OS) + SSHD (For my games) - Zero Noise.

You don't need Thermal Compound, Corsair Hydro comes pre-applied.

I would also grab Alpha Hero over just Plain Hero. You get a better built-in WiFi then what your buying.

Since your getting a 760T Case I would go with a bigger Radiator(240 or 280) then a single 120 radiator with Corsair H60.

Maybe upgrade the case to 780T, 760T is a cheap case.

Think hes saying its to late because he already purchased everything

 

[Fracas]

Seeing how far I can OC my GPU and it crashed on me for the first time. Thought I killed it, lol. No video output at all. Thankfully after a reboot, we back.

 

[chaosblade]

Seeing how far I can OC my GPU and it crashed on me for the first time. Thought I killed it, lol. No video output at all. Thankfully after a reboot, we back.

I've never had any luck OCing a GPU. The first time I tried it my MB and CPU were ruined while testing a 20mhz OC. No idea how that happened. Second time I couldn't squeeze anything out of it. Factory OC model but any voltage or clock increase over what it came with caused artifacts.

At this point I'm content not touching the GPU.

 

[knitoe]

Seeing how far I can OC my GPU and it crashed on me for the first time. Thought I killed it, lol. No video output at all. Thankfully after a reboot, we back.

What gpu and how high did you try to OC? If it's your first time OC, don't listen and try what other people get, but only increase in small increments.

 

[flipswitch]

Need advice,

I'm trying to copy a blu-ray drive to my hdd using makemkv, but when ripping it, my blu ray drive isn't spinning fast, almost making no sound which is making the process long. Is there a way to make it rip at optimal speed?

 

[BasicMath]

So I had to change parts around because I want NCIXUS to build my computer and they didn't have all the parts I was looking at. I think I'm done though, so if everyone doesn't mind, could I get thoughts on the final build before I buy it? I might get rid of the fans, and I wasn't sure if the cooling system I chose is the best available on NCIX, or if the ASUS version of the GTX 1080, or the RAM is good either. I also wanted to get a wireless network card just in case there is ever a time I'm not close enough to do a wired connection, and I don't think that motherboard has wifi (but I could be wrong):

Final (maybe) build -- parts are all on NCIXUS:

CPU
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
$345.88 Buy

CPU Cooler
Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
$59.99 Buy

Thermal Compound
Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste
$5.95 Buy

Motherboard
Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
$214.99 Buy

Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
$63.99 Buy

Storage
Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
$196.99 Buy

Video Card
Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card
$699.99 Buy

Case
Corsair 760T White V2 ATX Full Tower Case
$169.99 Buy

Power Supply
Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
$57.98 Buy

Optical Drive
Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer
$54.98 Buy

Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
$85.95 Buy

Wireless Network Adapter
Asus PCE-N15 PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter
$17.99 Buy

Case Fans
Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$18.96 Buy

Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$18.96 Buy
Total: $2719.39

-I'd go air instead of the H60 unless you're doing it for looks.
-Drop the thermal paste. Pretty much every after market cooler has some included or pre-applied. Depending on the cooler you may actually be buying something that's worse than what's pre-applied/included.
-I feel the mobo is a bit on the expensive side unless you like a particular feature or look aspect on it.
-I'd get a 256/512GB ssd and a cheaper 2-4TB drive instead of the 4TB WD Black.
-As a fellow 760t owner, I wouldn't get more fans. You get 3x 140mm (2ins/1out) with the case and another 120mm fan with the h60. That's unless, as always, you're doing it for the looks or maybe the acoustics of the system (push/pull on the h60?).

 

[flipswitch]

How do I check if dma mode is enabled for my blu ray drive in Windows 10. I can't find any info on Google.

 

[MarioHead3]

Okay, so let me start off by saying I've never built a PC or anything like that and I have no idea what I'm doing. However, after a bit of research, this is the build I'm looking at right now.

So, is this any good or will I burn my house down? I'd like to be able to play pretty much everything at at least 30 fps (but a consistent 60 would obviously be preferred), except maybe anything VR-related. I'm basically just not sure if there's anything else I might need or if something needs to be swapped out (not counting a monitor, I've got that part covered).

Also, my budget is about $2000, so I'd prefer not to go too far above that if I don't have to. I'll most likely get any out-of-stock parts from Amazon.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Jyrii]

Okay, so let me start off by saying I've never built a PC or anything like that and I have no idea what I'm doing. However, after a bit of research, this is the build I'm looking at right now.

So, is this any good or will I burn my house down? I'd like to be able to play pretty much everything at at least 30 fps (but a consistent 60 would obviously be preferred), except maybe anything VR-related. I'm basically just not sure if there's anything else I might need or if something needs to be swapped out (not counting a monitor, I've got that part covered).

Also, my budget is about $2000, so I'd prefer not to go too far above that if I don't have to. I'll most likely get any out-of-stock parts from Amazon.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I really suggest getting GTX 1070 instead of 980Ti now, especially if the 980Ti is that pricy.

Also Seagate HDD's have bad reputation and I haven't heard of that RAM manufacturer before (might just be me).

Other than that I think your rig will be pretty solid non-overclockable build.

 

[Symphonia]

I currently use a Lenovo Ideacentre AIO to do my video editing and uploading, using my Elgato connected to my PS4. I want to buy a desktop PC, though, so I can record directly from the PC, as well as record my PS4 gameplay. These are my current specs.

I'm looking for a desktop that has at least double the RAM, 2TB, and is capable of running Grand Theft Auto V. That is one game I must be able to run. I have a budget of £800-£1000.

 

[nightmare-slain]

I currently use a Lenovo Ideacentre AIO to do my video editing and uploading, using my Elgato connected to my PS4. I want to buy a desktop PC, though, so I can record directly from the PC, as well as record my PS4 gameplay. These are my current specs.



I'm looking for a desktop that has at least double the RAM, 2TB, and is capable of running Grand Theft Auto V. That is one game I must be able to run. I have a budget of £800-£1000.

there is a difference between running a game and running it at a level of performance you're happy with. 1080p 60fps, 1440p 60fps, 4k 30fps? medium/high/very high settings or everything maxed out? what kind of storage do you want? HDD or SSD? there is a big difference in price.

here is a rough build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£220.99 @ More Computers)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£30.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£108.38 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£74.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£57.54 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card (£243.47 @ BT Shop)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case (£64.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£79.99 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
Total: £881.34
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-18 10:07 BST+0100

adding in an SSD is going to take you over 1,000 easily even if it's just a cheap 250GB boot drive. the CPU, RAM, and GPU are great for 1080p 60fps gaming and will run GTA V just fine at high/very high. the i5-6600K is fine for gaming but if you're going to be recording games and doing a lot of video editing an i7-6700K might be better but that will add about another £100 to the price.

 

[Symphonia]

I'd want GTA V to run on ultra settings, 1080p60. I'd want at least 2TB, but 1TB will do if it means bringing price down.

 

[nightmare-slain]

I'd want GTA V to run on ultra settings, 1080p60. I'd want at least 2TB, but 1TB will do if it means bringing price down.

a 1TB ssd is about £240. a 2TB HDD is is £60. going with a 7200RPM HDD is the best option if you want a lot of storage.

the 480 might not be up to it then. probably need something around the level of performance as a 980. you might be better waiting for the GTX 1060. here is a comparison between the 480 and 980:

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1748?vs=1716

 

[Dries]

Hi guys, I'm getting a new CPU, motherboard and SSD. Currently, I'm running Windows 10 (via Microsoft's free upgrade program) and I'd also like to have a fresh install of Windows 10 on my new SSD.

Is this possible? I have a valid version with a product-ID.

 

[nightmare-slain]

Hi guys, I'm getting a new CPU, motherboard and SSD. Currently, I'm running Windows 10 (via Microsoft's free upgrade program) and I'd also like to have a fresh install of Windows 10 on my new SSD.

Is this possible? I have a valid version with a product-ID.

is it a retail or OEM license? if it's retail you should be fine to just create a USB installlation media and stick your key in. if it's OEM then you will need to buy a new license for your new motherboard.

 

[Lockjaw333]

Hi guys, I'm getting a new CPU, motherboard and SSD. Currently, I'm running Windows 10 (via Microsoft's free upgrade program) and I'd also like to have a fresh install of Windows 10 on my new SSD.

Is this possible? I have a valid version with a product-ID.

I just did this 2 days ago myself.

Grab a USB stick with at least 4GB on it, and use the Windows Media Creation Tool to create a bootable Windows 10 usb drive.

After your initial post, plug the USB in, restart and go into bios and boot from the usb drive you created. Windows 10 will install like normal. When it asked for a product license, I just entered my Windows 7 key from the retail box and it took it no problems.