small ssd for windows and a non founders edition 1080 would be perfectThanks!
This will definitely be my first real try at PC gaming and I'm excited. I would like to eventually try VR out and whatnot, so I also wanted to make sure my PC could handle that as well.
"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Hey guys, quick question as I am going to Canada computers in a little- I am finally deciding to upgrade my 10 year old 900p monitor and want to get a 1080p one, I am willing to spend a maximum of $200, maybe just a little more. So the monitors recommended on this page for that price range are the ASUS VS238H-P and the ASUS VS239H-P.
Another monitor I have found with good reviews in regards to gaming is the benq rl2455hm (although I have heard this one is mainly for console gaming...). This monitor is a bit pricier but I am willing to spend the extra if need be. Is the above monitor superior to the suggested ASUS monitors, or no? Also, out of the ASUS monitors suggested, which one is superior?
TBH I just want the best monitor for maximum I am willing to spend ($220), so any other suggestions are appreciated.
Another monitor I have found with good reviews in regards to gaming is the benq rl2455hm (although I have heard this one is mainly for console gaming...). This monitor is a bit pricier but I am willing to spend the extra if need be. Is the above monitor superior to the suggested ASUS monitors, or no? Also, out of the ASUS monitors suggested, which one is superior?
TBH I just want the best monitor for maximum I am willing to spend ($220), so any other suggestions are appreciated.
pinkurocket
Member
Okay guys this is the build I'm looking at to buy, but I'm still unsure about the motherboard. It's either the one mentioned below or an 'Asus Z170 Pro Gaming,' or a different one altogether if any of you have a suggestion. And from what I can tell, these don't have a Wi-fi module, so what should I buy additionally to get Wi-fi capabilities?
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.70 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($459.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.95 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.49 @ Newegg)
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.70 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($459.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.95 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.49 @ Newegg)
Aztechnology
Member
Whoa whoa that HDD is overpriced as hell or am I crazy? Seems like a hefty premium for having 4TB all on one drive considering its just 7200RPM.
Other than that looks good!
Saintruski
Unconfirmed Member
No your not, the 4TB 7200 HGST drives I buy can usually be gotten much cheaper (~150) as they are alway on sale. But it's their Black line so it has a longer warranty than the blues, maybe a few other things, so I guess that's the price.
WD Blacks also have lower seek time and faster read/write than Blues. Bigger cache too IIRC.
My goddamn PC died. Problem unknown. I didn't see what happened, the power kept on but the display doesn't show anything, and oddly, KB/M do not light up, not even when clicking them (usually, they light up even if the PC is shutdown and PSU power switch is on).
Removed R9 390 and plugged cables (different ones) to mobo but not getting image still.
All fans work. There has been some odd noise for a couple of weeks, and i still hear it if i turn the PC on; probably just coil-whine though. Only SSD, so all noise-makers are accounted for.
Temps have been normal as far as i can determine and the computer does not shutdown so it cannot be a CPU-heat problem, probably.
Do we have actual troubleshooting thread?
I know this isn't really the place for problems on PCs that worked fine for 8 months. But i need to vent a bit....
Removed R9 390 and plugged cables (different ones) to mobo but not getting image still.
All fans work. There has been some odd noise for a couple of weeks, and i still hear it if i turn the PC on; probably just coil-whine though. Only SSD, so all noise-makers are accounted for.
Temps have been normal as far as i can determine and the computer does not shutdown so it cannot be a CPU-heat problem, probably.
Do we have actual troubleshooting thread?
I know this isn't really the place for problems on PCs that worked fine for 8 months. But i need to vent a bit....
This is the closest one: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377301
It's not hugely active, but still probably the best existing thread for troubleshooting.
The Hamburglar
Banned
Need some advice on these builds. I was planning on building my own with parts but I have found a prebuilt one which has a better cpu for cheaper...
this is the prebuilt http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Z170-I7-6...G3-/121761660449?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
Case : Galaxy 3 Modern Midi Tower Case
Power Supply : Branded EVGA 80+ (Plus) Rated 500W Power Supply
Motherboard : Gigabyte Z170-HD3P (supports new 6th Gen Skylake CPU)
CPU : Intel I7 Skylake 6700K 6th Gen Quad Core CPU 4.0Ghz (4.2Ghz Turbo)
Hard Drive : 120gb Solid State Drive
Memory : 16gb DDR4 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance Memory
Graphics Card : Onboard Intergrated (DVI / VGA)
Optical Drive : 24x Dual Layer DVD Writer
Warranty : 12 Months Return To Base (Parts & Labour)
Connections : 2 x USB 2.0 Rear + 4 x Rear USB 3.0 + 1 x USB 3.1 + Front USB 2 or 3 if case supports / LAN /
What's people opinions on that motherboard, doesn't seem amazing but looks like it gets the job done, can you OC on it? What about the case?
Here is the parts I picked which cost more for what I was going to build myself.
Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Kingston FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Both builds are missing a cooler and GFX card on purpose as I decide what brand to go with.
this is the prebuilt http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Z170-I7-6...G3-/121761660449?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
Case : Galaxy 3 Modern Midi Tower Case
Power Supply : Branded EVGA 80+ (Plus) Rated 500W Power Supply
Motherboard : Gigabyte Z170-HD3P (supports new 6th Gen Skylake CPU)
CPU : Intel I7 Skylake 6700K 6th Gen Quad Core CPU 4.0Ghz (4.2Ghz Turbo)
Hard Drive : 120gb Solid State Drive
Memory : 16gb DDR4 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance Memory
Graphics Card : Onboard Intergrated (DVI / VGA)
Optical Drive : 24x Dual Layer DVD Writer
Warranty : 12 Months Return To Base (Parts & Labour)
Connections : 2 x USB 2.0 Rear + 4 x Rear USB 3.0 + 1 x USB 3.1 + Front USB 2 or 3 if case supports / LAN /
What's people opinions on that motherboard, doesn't seem amazing but looks like it gets the job done, can you OC on it? What about the case?
Here is the parts I picked which cost more for what I was going to build myself.
Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Kingston FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Both builds are missing a cooler and GFX card on purpose as I decide what brand to go with.
Thanks, i forgot that thing existed.
Quicksilver4648
Member
I figured out my issue. When audio is output through HDMI the quality is 24 bit / 192k hz but the audio is 100% untouched, which can be good or bad depending on your opinion. My sound card includes this software called THX TruStudio Pro which, in my opinion, actually does make the audio sound better. However, I can't get TruStudio Pro to work nVidia GPU HDMI audio or my motherboard's integrated Realtek HD audio. So I am given a choice. Either A) listen to "improved" audio at 24 bit / 48k Hz or B) listen to untouched audio at 24 bit / 192k Hz.
mhayze
Member
Sorry to hear about your PC issues - it's a bad feeling, particularly if it's your only PC and / or no access to applicable spare parts. From your post it sounded like the fans still work, which does indicate that the PC is still getting power from the PSU - do you know if you mobo has diagnostic lights? Lookup the user manual and see if it does (most do) and the diag lights should tell you if it's getting past CPU/RAM check.
If there are no lights, it's probably the motherboard, although still an outside chance that PSU is bad too.
If there are lights on the mobo, and you have a desktop CPU that also has a working integrated GPU, do you know if there's any POST information coming through from the iGPU's output, now that the R9 is out?
PSU power LEDs on the mobo works, as usual.
Other LEDs are unlit... per manual, that means things are working. Lit LED means a problem apparently. EDIT oh, right, don't think the LEDs even blinked while powering the PC on. Which would mean the POST wasn't run at all, right?
That said, MemTest refused to run (no blinking LED) but i might have pressed the button for too short time, or too long. Will try it tomorrow properly.
Sigh... there's so much stuff in the manual, need time and energy to go through everything relevant.
Other LEDs are unlit... per manual, that means things are working. Lit LED means a problem apparently. EDIT oh, right, don't think the LEDs even blinked while powering the PC on. Which would mean the POST wasn't run at all, right?
That said, MemTest refused to run (no blinking LED) but i might have pressed the button for too short time, or too long. Will try it tomorrow properly.
Sigh... there's so much stuff in the manual, need time and energy to go through everything relevant.
LostMyNarbles
Member
My biggest issue with that prebuilt PC is that the power supply looks pretty terrible. It looks like an entry level power supply and it probably will not be enough power for that build depending on what video card would go into it. Also, I just would not want to stick a cheap power supply like that into a build with expensive parts like the i5-6600k and Z170. That motherboard looks "okay" in the sense that you'd be able to overclock on it without issue, but on Newegg in only has 3/5 with a lot of reviews complaining that it was either defective or broke out of the blue. Another thing to note is that the system doesn't include a storage drive which would add to the cost of it thus it will appear cheaper than your own built system.
So I've been having some issues. I'm 90% sure it's my GPU, but I wanted to solicit opinions before dealing with an RMA.
I upgraded earlier this summer to:
i5-6600K (no OC)
Gigabyte Z170N-Gaming 5 mobo
16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 (no OC)
Using my old XFX 650W PSU.
I hadn't had any issues since the rebuild, but I also had barely had any time to game on it. Last week, my Gigabyte G1 1070 arrived and I cleared some time for gaming again. Mostly, it's been a joy. But three times now, once in GTA5, twice just on the desktop or in Chrome, the screen went black and the fans spun up to 100% jet engine level. It took pressing the reset button on my tower to get things straightened out.
In addition, I've now had a handful of hard resets. Interestingly, I've had no problem in Wolfenstein: TNO, SW:BF, Doom or any of a number of other demanding titles, with the exception of GTA5. I just can't play it because within ten minutes, regardless of what's happening on-screen, my whole PC will restart. Oh, and now the demo for the new System Shock. Screen and lights on the mobo go black and a couple seconds later the system restarts.
I'm guessing the factory OC is too high on the 1070? I am not really interested in downclocking, as I want the advertised speed as a bare minimum (I would have been playing with OCing by now had this not started) so I guess I need to start the RMA process with Newegg.
Also, I've tried running Furmark three times since this started. First time, I got the hard reset within a couple seconds. Second time it actually completed. Third time I got the hard reset within maybe eight seconds.
So whatcha think, GAF? My GPU fucked? Is there a chance it's the PSU or even the RAM or mobo? (Please god no...)
edit: should note, before those resets, the fans on the GPU don't spin up, unlike the first issue. Very quiet.
I upgraded earlier this summer to:
i5-6600K (no OC)
Gigabyte Z170N-Gaming 5 mobo
16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 (no OC)
Using my old XFX 650W PSU.
I hadn't had any issues since the rebuild, but I also had barely had any time to game on it. Last week, my Gigabyte G1 1070 arrived and I cleared some time for gaming again. Mostly, it's been a joy. But three times now, once in GTA5, twice just on the desktop or in Chrome, the screen went black and the fans spun up to 100% jet engine level. It took pressing the reset button on my tower to get things straightened out.
In addition, I've now had a handful of hard resets. Interestingly, I've had no problem in Wolfenstein: TNO, SW:BF, Doom or any of a number of other demanding titles, with the exception of GTA5. I just can't play it because within ten minutes, regardless of what's happening on-screen, my whole PC will restart. Oh, and now the demo for the new System Shock. Screen and lights on the mobo go black and a couple seconds later the system restarts.
I'm guessing the factory OC is too high on the 1070? I am not really interested in downclocking, as I want the advertised speed as a bare minimum (I would have been playing with OCing by now had this not started) so I guess I need to start the RMA process with Newegg.
Also, I've tried running Furmark three times since this started. First time, I got the hard reset within a couple seconds. Second time it actually completed. Third time I got the hard reset within maybe eight seconds.
So whatcha think, GAF? My GPU fucked? Is there a chance it's the PSU or even the RAM or mobo? (Please god no...)
edit: should note, before those resets, the fans on the GPU don't spin up, unlike the first issue. Very quiet.
mysocksarepink
Banned
so i'm building my friend a PC, 6600k cpu build.
Any good mobo + ram combos out right now for 175$-225$?
Any good mobo + ram combos out right now for 175$-225$?
super-famicom
Member
I have the VS-239H-P and used it for my PS4 for a long time. It was great and I had no issues with FPS multiplayer games.
You can also look into the ViewSonic VX2770SMH-LED (27", $219 on USA Amazon) or the BenQ VZ2470H (24", $179 on USA Amazon). I've been looking into these two since my wife uses my Asus for streaming YouTube and Netflix.
Personally, I would go for IPS and not TN monitors, since I favor better colors over input lag. The two monitors I mentioned are IPS and AMVA, respectively.
Not an expert but, If the fans kicked up like crazy my first suggestion would be to keep an eye on the temperature of your GPU first, and second check to see if there are any new drivers for your card. I've seen some reports of GTAV~ related crashes on Reddit but don't have a 1070 to confirm with.
If new drivers don't help or aren't available and your temps are fine, my guess is that yeah the card is bad. I would RMA it at that point. I don't think anything else in your PC would be the culprit.
Drivers are all up-to-date. I use GeForce Experience and download new drivers as soon as I notice they're available. What's the best program to monitor temps while in-game?
Yes, you do. Yes, it is bullshit.
Aztechnology
Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $143.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-17 21:06 EDT-0400
These should work. Or you can look through additional compatible Mono's by adding your CPU.
Or this guy
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?i..., LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10446076&PID=3938566
Yes, Cyberlink PowerDVD is the most popular followed by WinDVD Pro.
Most retail Blu-Ray drives come with some sort of Blu-Ray software packaged in.
That ViewSonic looks nice, trouble is, its way outside my price range thanks to the value of our Canadian dollar :/ The BenQ is TN, no? It looks real fancy, i'l grant it that but I kind of what IPS know that I have read up a bit on it. I guess I will go for the ASUS, only trouble is getting the monitor as it seems very much out of stock in the nearby stores. Any better IPS monitors for a similar price, especially considering this monitor has been recommended since the inception of this OT? I mean I will just get the ASUS if its the best, but another option would be great.
Vigilant Walrus
Member
Why a founders edition graphics card?
why an optical drive?
why no SSD?
Why a Hero (are you going to use the features of that expensive Mobo)?
If I were you, i'd get a cheaper Mobo (with Ethernetport)), a cheaper case and I'd drop the optical drive(bloat), wireless card(bloat) and swap the Hard drive for a SSD and the founders edition for a reference 1080. I'd imagine the MSI with twin frozor would be good. Or the Asus one.
Hell, you'd might have money for something better than a H60 too!
It's just hard to recommend building this sort of build without a SSD for the operating system. Having an SSD is such a dramatic difference.
I agree with this, SSD is must for this kind of machine.
If it was super cheap budget PC then you might want to skip SSD, but this is clearly not that.
ASUS and Gigabyte are good brands for mobos, it should be fine. You don't need 3200mhz RAM though. Go for anything between 2400 and 3000, there are no gains really beyond 2400 and definitely none above 3000 when gaming. Just get a PCIe wifi card or use ethernet and you're good to go, this is a good one. I LOVE my S340 case.
The top build isn't bad, but that case looks cheap. I'd personally go with what you picked out, because I have close to the same setup with an RX480 and it's very fast.
I have an old 500W PSU (bought in 2012), and I just got a new case today. I didn't get any new components, but the case did come with a couple new 120mm fans. Earlier today, the PC was working fine in the old case, but now anytime I try to turn the PC on in the new one, it starts to turn on and then just...doesn't. I can feel air coming from the rear fan for a brief second so it's trying to fire up, and the green light on the motherboard is on, indicating it has power.
Just wanted to check to see if you guys think it sounds like the problem is the power supply like I'm thinking, so I can go ahead and order a new one.
Just wanted to check to see if you guys think it sounds like the problem is the power supply like I'm thinking, so I can go ahead and order a new one.
super-famicom
Member
Shrennin
Didn't get the memo regarding the 14th Amendment
I actually got a 1TB SSD in addition to that 4TB drive before I purchased it. I would have done a non founders 1080, but NCIX only had that Asus founders from what I could tell, and I wanted them to build the PC as well so all parts had to be ordered through them.
That 4TB was expensive, but it looked like that series of hard drives was pretty good so I decided to get a good one.
I wanted NCIX to build it, and they only had that one 1080 in stock and the site wouldn't let me add any others.
I was going back and forth but I want Blu-Ray capabilities with it.
I actually went with a 1TB SSD earlier today so I should be good there.
I probably should have gone with a cheaper Mobo but it's too late now unfortunately.
Dragn and you have both mentioned that SSDs are good for the OS. Could you explain why it's better to have the OS on an SSD specifically? Should I use my 4TB hard drive for everything else and reserve the SSD just for the OS?
Noob question, but is AMVA superior to IPS? Whats the general difference between the two?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
It impacts your boot time significantly, and the OS is what is always running in the background. Having it on the SSD just makes everything snappier than loading off a slow HDD.
Seriously, once you experience the difference you will never be able to go back.
super-famicom
Member
I just found out about AMVA last night when I was researching monitors. This site explains a bit about each panel type.
TLDR: AMVA has better viewing angles and color reproduction than TN panels but not quite as good as IPS in shades of color. Earlier AMVA panels suffered from pixel blurring during fast transitions, but AMVA+ panels use effective pixel overdrive to avoid blurring and can be on par with modern IPS panels.
Still doing some research, since I'm shopping around for a new monitor.
edit-
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/panel_technologies.htm
I would change the WD Black Drive. They will get noisy & Blacks are way overpriced for what you get. If you don't want a SSD then try a SSHD drive.
My One Setup is SSD (OS) + SSHD (For my games) - Zero Noise.
You don't need Thermal Compound, Corsair Hydro comes pre-applied.
I would also grab Alpha Hero over just Plain Hero. You get a better built-in WiFi then what your buying.
Since your getting a 760T Case I would go with a bigger Radiator(240 or 280) then a single 120 radiator with Corsair H60.
Maybe upgrade the case to 780T, 760T is a cheap case.
Saintruski
Unconfirmed Member
Think hes saying its to late because he already purchased everything
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I've never had any luck OCing a GPU. The first time I tried it my MB and CPU were ruined while testing a 20mhz OC. No idea how that happened. Second time I couldn't squeeze anything out of it. Factory OC model but any voltage or clock increase over what it came with caused artifacts.
At this point I'm content not touching the GPU.
What gpu and how high did you try to OC? If it's your first time OC, don't listen and try what other people get, but only increase in small increments.
flipswitch
Member
Need advice,
I'm trying to copy a blu-ray drive to my hdd using makemkv, but when ripping it, my blu ray drive isn't spinning fast, almost making no sound which is making the process long. Is there a way to make it rip at optimal speed?
I'm trying to copy a blu-ray drive to my hdd using makemkv, but when ripping it, my blu ray drive isn't spinning fast, almost making no sound which is making the process long. Is there a way to make it rip at optimal speed?
-I'd go air instead of the H60 unless you're doing it for looks.
-Drop the thermal paste. Pretty much every after market cooler has some included or pre-applied. Depending on the cooler you may actually be buying something that's worse than what's pre-applied/included.
-I feel the mobo is a bit on the expensive side unless you like a particular feature or look aspect on it.
-I'd get a 256/512GB ssd and a cheaper 2-4TB drive instead of the 4TB WD Black.
-As a fellow 760t owner, I wouldn't get more fans. You get 3x 140mm (2ins/1out) with the case and another 120mm fan with the h60. That's unless, as always, you're doing it for the looks or maybe the acoustics of the system (push/pull on the h60?).
flipswitch
Member
How do I check if dma mode is enabled for my blu ray drive in Windows 10. I can't find any info on Google.
MarioHead3
Banned
Okay, so let me start off by saying I've never built a PC or anything like that and I have no idea what I'm doing. However, after a bit of research, this is the build I'm looking at right now.
So, is this any good or will I burn my house down? I'd like to be able to play pretty much everything at at least 30 fps (but a consistent 60 would obviously be preferred), except maybe anything VR-related. I'm basically just not sure if there's anything else I might need or if something needs to be swapped out (not counting a monitor, I've got that part covered).
Also, my budget is about $2000, so I'd prefer not to go too far above that if I don't have to. I'll most likely get any out-of-stock parts from Amazon.
Thanks in advance for any help!
So, is this any good or will I burn my house down? I'd like to be able to play pretty much everything at at least 30 fps (but a consistent 60 would obviously be preferred), except maybe anything VR-related. I'm basically just not sure if there's anything else I might need or if something needs to be swapped out (not counting a monitor, I've got that part covered).
Also, my budget is about $2000, so I'd prefer not to go too far above that if I don't have to. I'll most likely get any out-of-stock parts from Amazon.
Thanks in advance for any help!
I really suggest getting GTX 1070 instead of 980Ti now, especially if the 980Ti is that pricy.
Also Seagate HDD's have bad reputation and I haven't heard of that RAM manufacturer before (might just be me).
Other than that I think your rig will be pretty solid non-overclockable build.
I currently use a Lenovo Ideacentre AIO to do my video editing and uploading, using my Elgato connected to my PS4. I want to buy a desktop PC, though, so I can record directly from the PC, as well as record my PS4 gameplay. These are my current specs.
I'm looking for a desktop that has at least double the RAM, 2TB, and is capable of running Grand Theft Auto V. That is one game I must be able to run. I have a budget of £800-£1000.
I'm looking for a desktop that has at least double the RAM, 2TB, and is capable of running Grand Theft Auto V. That is one game I must be able to run. I have a budget of £800-£1000.
Makoto-Yuki
Banned
there is a difference between running a game and running it at a level of performance you're happy with. 1080p 60fps, 1440p 60fps, 4k 30fps? medium/high/very high settings or everything maxed out? what kind of storage do you want? HDD or SSD? there is a big difference in price.
here is a rough build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£220.99 @ More Computers)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£30.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£108.38 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£74.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£57.54 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card (£243.47 @ BT Shop)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case (£64.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£79.99 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
Total: £881.34
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-18 10:07 BST+0100
adding in an SSD is going to take you over 1,000 easily even if it's just a cheap 250GB boot drive. the CPU, RAM, and GPU are great for 1080p 60fps gaming and will run GTA V just fine at high/very high. the i5-6600K is fine for gaming but if you're going to be recording games and doing a lot of video editing an i7-6700K might be better but that will add about another £100 to the price.
Makoto-Yuki
Banned
a 1TB ssd is about £240. a 2TB HDD is is £60. going with a 7200RPM HDD is the best option if you want a lot of storage.
the 480 might not be up to it then. probably need something around the level of performance as a 980. you might be better waiting for the GTX 1060. here is a comparison between the 480 and 980:
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1748?vs=1716
Makoto-Yuki
Banned
is it a retail or OEM license? if it's retail you should be fine to just create a USB installlation media and stick your key in. if it's OEM then you will need to buy a new license for your new motherboard.
Lockjaw333
Member
I just did this 2 days ago myself.
Grab a USB stick with at least 4GB on it, and use the Windows Media Creation Tool to create a bootable Windows 10 usb drive.
After your initial post, plug the USB in, restart and go into bios and boot from the usb drive you created. Windows 10 will install like normal. When it asked for a product license, I just entered my Windows 7 key from the retail box and it took it no problems.
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