Is there any substantial difference on a power supply being rated copper, silver or gold?
Anyone?
Is there any substantial difference on a power supply being rated copper, silver or gold?
Anyone?
Anyone?
So the fact that I'm extended across two 4k desktops shouldn't impact it? That's what I was more worried about. I thought it would cripple my fps in games.
I'd be more concerned if I have enough bandwidth to watch streams and play multiplayer, that's how minimal the impact should be.
Uh, I'm moving countries and tried to disassemble my PC. All went well until I got to the motherboard. I think I may have bent a pin or 2 whilst (ironically) attempting to replace protective cover.
Thoughts? So I dare place my cpu back on this when I'm home?
What's the latest graphics card that everyone is going mad for? The 1080 or something? I think Terry Crews even got one. Is that worth getting?Well have a lot more info about the 1060 tomorrow so it wouldn't be a bad idea to wait and see what the performance look like there.
What's the latest graphics card that everyone is going mad for? The 1080 or something? I think Terry Crews even got one. Is that worth getting?
What gpu and how high did you try to OC? If it's your first time OC, don't listen and try what other people get, but only increase in small increments.
Hi Gaf, I don't need a new PC (yet) but tonight my monitor just broke so I'm stuck on my phone. It was from 2007 (Samsung 245bw) so it had a good run, though I would rather have it not broken.
Anyway, it's been a long while since I got a new monitor. I went through the data in the OP, but there are some questions I didn't find the answers to:
1) TN, VA, IPS, etc: I read the linked article in the OP but it contains fairly technical information and a lot of it, and not really a specific conclusion. Realistically given my budget I guess it is TN vs IPS, but should I actively avoid TN and get IPS? Or TN is still quite good? Games are a primary focus of my PC, but I mostly play RPG and 4X, with some faster paced like Dark Souls, Skyrim, etc. Rarely FPS and never racing or sim.
2) Prices seem down a bit, and I could get a 27" instead of a 24", but both sets would be 1080p. The 27" is hardly and price difference, is this because 24" is on it's way out, or is it because the 27" provides an inferior display to the 24" and is trying to sell on size alone? Is a 27" a safe bet, or I should stick with 24" if I want better image/panel quality? (At 1080p either way).
3) Freesync: Is it as good as GSync? Does it require specific game support, or it is related only to the AMD card? I was planning on getting a 1060, but now that I need a new monitor I was toying with the idea of GSync. Unfortunately even the cheapest GSync monitors seem far above my budget, however Freesync (at least for Samsung) seems hardly more expensive than a "normal" monitor. If Freesync is every bit as good and the implementation doesn't require support in games, that may push me to a Freesync + 480 combo instead of the 1060.
TLDR: My monitor broke, and I have about a $300 CAD budget to replace it. I'm planning on sticking to 1080p. Is TN safe or I should get IPS only? Should I get 27", or does 24" have a superior panel? GSync seems to out of budget, but is Freesync worth it?
Hi Gaf, I don't need a new PC (yet) but tonight my monitor just broke so I'm stuck on my phone. It was from 2007 (Samsung 245bw) so it had a good run, though I would rather have it not broken.
Anyway, it's been a long while since I got a new monitor. I went through the data in the OP, but there are some questions I didn't find the answers to:
1) TN, VA, IPS, etc: I read the linked article in the OP but it contains fairly technical information and a lot of it, and not really a specific conclusion. Realistically given my budget I guess it is TN vs IPS, but should I actively avoid TN and get IPS? Or TN is still quite good? Games are a primary focus of my PC, but I mostly play RPG and 4X, with some faster paced like Dark Souls, Skyrim, etc. Rarely FPS and never racing or sim.
2) Prices seem down a bit, and I could get a 27" instead of a 24", but both sets would be 1080p. The 27" is hardly and price difference, is this because 24" is on it's way out, or is it because the 27" provides an inferior display to the 24" and is trying to sell on size alone? Is a 27" a safe bet, or I should stick with 24" if I want better image/panel quality? (At 1080p either way).
3) Freesync: Is it as good as GSync? Does it require specific game support, or it is related only to the AMD card? I was planning on getting a 1060, but now that I need a new monitor I was toying with the idea of GSync. Unfortunately even the cheapest GSync monitors seem far above my budget, however Freesync (at least for Samsung) seems hardly more expensive than a "normal" monitor. If Freesync is every bit as good and the implementation doesn't require support in games, that may push me to a Freesync + 480 combo instead of the 1060.
TLDR: My monitor broke, and I have about a $300 CAD budget to replace it. I'm planning on sticking to 1080p. Is TN safe or I should get IPS only? Should I get 27", or does 24" have a superior panel? GSync seems to out of budget, but is Freesync worth it?
Have any of the new cards (480 or 1070/1080) been announced in a short form factor yet? Considering something to replace the GTX 970 but it can't be a full-size card.
The 1060 looks to have ITX versions.
Hey guys, just need an opinion on where to mount my AIO liquid cooler. I got a Corsair H80i GT cooler if that matters.
So the red arrows indicate airflow direction and are currently all 140mm fans. I'm looking to mount the cooler as a rear exhaust but can someone please let me know if I should mount it anywhere else and why? I noticed that most people with my case mount their rads on the top but they're mostly 240mm rads or larger.
Random question... why don't cases have side-fan mounts anymore? I bought my case in 2012 and it and most of the other options at the time had them:
Now, looking through the current cases it's hard to find one. Just wondering why they've apparently been phased out. I know a front fan works better for overall air circulation, but the side fan does help the GPU out.
Temperature question: I'm using Speedfan to check my CPU temperatures, and it's reading all three of my hard drives as running at 55C+, which is pretty damned hot for a hard drive. But when I look at the SMART readings for all three drives, they're much lower, around 35, which is well within normal operating temperatures. Some kind of glitch in what Speedfan is reading? I'm more inclined to believe the SMART readings, since there's no reason for the drives to be that hot.
I have noticed my CPU getting warmer than it did before I installed my 1080. I can think of one simple reason, is that the games are forcing more CPU calls since they're running at a (much) higher framerate. That's a guess, at any rate. But I opened the case to check out the temps personally and noticed that the back of the 1080 is quite hot, which is only an inch or so below the CPU heatsink. I'm not sure how much transfer there is in a situation like that. I've bumped up the fan curve on the GPU to see if it'll help, but I haven't tested it yet.
Yo PC gaf, i can have a Schiit Magnit 2 uber + modi (v1) for 120$ cnd, thats ~90$ US.
Is that a deal? How would a xonar u7 compare amp wise ? Im only driving headphones (Sennheiser HD 555)
Temperature question: I'm using Speedfan to check my CPU temperatures, and it's reading all three of my hard drives as running at 55C+, which is pretty damned hot for a hard drive. But when I look at the SMART readings for all three drives, they're much lower, around 35, which is well within normal operating temperatures. Some kind of glitch in what Speedfan is reading? I'm more inclined to believe the SMART readings, since there's no reason for the drives to be that hot.
I have noticed my CPU getting warmer than it did before I installed my 1080. I can think of one simple reason, is that the games are forcing more CPU calls since they're running at a (much) higher framerate. That's a guess, at any rate. But I opened the case to check out the temps personally and noticed that the back of the 1080 is quite hot, which is only an inch or so below the CPU heatsink. I'm not sure how much transfer there is in a situation like that. I've bumped up the fan curve on the GPU to see if it'll help, but I haven't tested it yet.
Double-fan, EVGA FTW. My previous card was a blower. I do have an extra fan there now, moved up from next to the PSU (where it wasn't even hooked up), and is now blowing from the front of the system onto the GPU. GPU temps in general seem lower than the blower model, and certainly quieter even at decent fan speed.Is your 1080 a blower or one of the triple fan designs? Triple fans spit heat back into the case, so you need better airflow.
Is this version of the GTX 1080 good? Or should I wait and get a different version once it is in stock at NCIXUS?
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 1721/1860 MHz 8GB GDDR5X SLI G-SYNC Ansel VR Graphics Card
Is this version of the GTX 1080 good? Or should I wait and get a different version once it is in stock at NCIXUS?
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 1721/1860 MHz 8GB GDDR5X SLI G-SYNC Ansel VR Graphics Card
All cards are basically the same. Get whichever you can and whichever you think looks better.
Pretty much all the founders edition are identical. What kind of monitor do you have?
How is this for $800?
5 6600k@3.5
Corsair H100i
Asus Z170m Plus mobo
Evga Gtx 970 SC
8GB HyperX ddr4 2400mhz
Adata 120gb SSD
500Gb HDD
Bitfenix Fury 650 Watt modular 80+ Gold unit with sleeved black cables
Windows 10 64bit
I feel like it's a good deal, especially with the new mobo and cpu, and I can easily add another stick of ram. Also, going from 0 computer to new computer.
Yes/No?
Ok, awesome! Thanks! I didn't even think that was a founder edition, but that's the only card currently available. =P
I also have this monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2HH7G0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Oh ok nice, you've got a good 1080/144hz monitor. Yea any 1080 will go way above and beyond. Honestly you'd be great with a 1070 too. So that's an option if you want to shave off about $270 or so on your GPU. The 1070 is about 20% or so weaker but likely would still provide you with a phenomenal gaming experience for years.
Any recommendations on a good 1070 that's available at NCISUX?
That's a really good deal, I think
That's what I thought too. What are some big pros on this PC that make it a good deal?
It comes out like $200+ cheaper than if you bought all the parts yourself. Add an extra stick of RAM and it's a high-end rig. It's already set up for future upgrades with a decent PSU and current-socket motherboard and processor.
And it's also already put together (really well, I might add). Unless there's some hidden issue, I'd jump on that if I was looking to build.
Ideally you want it as an intake, so it's not drawing in warm air from the GPU exhaust. It probably doesn't matter much, back, top, or top front if it reaches could all work fine.
Top front probably wouldn't look the best, but that would probably be my personal first choice just to keep bottom/front to top/back airflow for the GPU.
You don't need thermal paste with these parts unless you're going to re-apply the cooler, it comes with pre-installed paste.I ended up cancelling my initial order before it was processed to make some adjustments. Here is my new build:
NCIXUS:
CPU
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler
Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H105 Extreme Performance 240MM CPU Cooler W/Customizable PWM Fan Speed
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Impact mITX LGA1151 Z170 Skylake 1PCI-E16 SATA3 HDMI DP Gaming Motherboard
Memory
Two G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series F4-3000C15D-16GVR DDR4 3000MHZ 16GB(8GBX2) 15-16-16-35 Memory Kit
Storage
Three Samsung 850 EVO 1TB 2.5 SATA 3 Solid State Drive (SSD) *IR-$50* (Games and whatnot will go here)
Samsung 850 Evo 250GB 2.5 SATA 3 Solid State Drive (SSD) With AES-256 Encryption (The OS will go on this)
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM (Pictures and whatnot will go here)
Video Card
Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card
Case
Corsair Graphite Series 760T Full Tower Gaming White Case ATX Toolfree SSD Cages Modular Drive Cage
Power Supply
Corsair Professional Series HX850I 850W ATX 80 Plus Platinum Power Supply W/10 Years Warranty
Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
$85.95 Buy
Case Fans
Two Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan
Sound Card
ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Express x1 Interface Sound Card
Ok, so I went crazy with some things, but just to make sure, do I need thermal paste with this setup? I also kinda want a good Blu-Ray optical drive, any suggestions? Is that power supply a good one? How does this new build look? I upgraded the Motherboard so it has wifi and that way I can avoid the adapter.
I'll wait a little bit to get feedback before I purchase it this time. =P
Asked a while back but didn't get any responses.
Any recommendations for mATX cases similar to the SG10? Front mounted PSU, small size but takes full size components without much issue.
About the only things I've seen are the various Bitfenix mATX cases, which seem to be around the same price and look nicer, but I don't like their interiors nearly as much. SG10 seems like it will cool much more effectively.
Definitely leaning towards this one when I upgrade, but I'm still trying to find more options for small mATX cases. ITX is not an option since I need the slots from mATX. TJ08 is also nice but bigger without any benefits (for me) other than nicer looks.
Don't know about the Enermax, but depending on where you are located or which look you prefer, I'd go with an EK Predator or a Swiftech kit. Both are expandable and refillable.I'm looking for a aio cooler for my i5 6600k, is the enermax liqmax II 240 good? I'm also looking at the corsair 400c and is possible to find other case with a full size window panel?
Might as well ask: Does anyone have experience with sticking LEDs on your monitor?
I got a lightpack kit the other day and it works pretty well and looks cool, but the Acer XB270HU has a rugged backside (which I didn't consider) and the LED strips are already falling off since the adhesive has barely any surface to stick to. I have a few Tesa "PowerStrips" (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000KJOC78/) on the way, couldn't really think of anything else that is not permanent but might be suitable for the surface.