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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member

You'll only notice it over a very long period of time in power bill savings. The difference will be in component quality. Otherwise you'll save on power bills on 24/7 run time over years of time. Gold is about all you want for clean power delivery and good savings, with quality componentry.

So the fact that I'm extended across two 4k desktops shouldn't impact it? That's what I was more worried about. I thought it would cripple my fps in games.

I'd be more concerned if I have enough bandwidth to watch streams and play multiplayer, that's how minimal the impact should be.
 

Vitor711

Member
Uh, I'm moving countries and tried to disassemble my PC. All went well until I got to the motherboard. I think I may have bent a pin or 2 whilst (ironically) attempting to replace protective cover.

Thoughts? So I dare place my cpu back on this when I'm home?


9Jvye1c

YNjuScj
 

Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member
Uh, I'm moving countries and tried to disassemble my PC. All went well until I got to the motherboard. I think I may have bent a pin or 2 whilst (ironically) attempting to replace protective cover.

Thoughts? So I dare place my cpu back on this when I'm home?


9Jvye1c

YNjuScj

If they are bent to the point where they are not making contact with the proper golden contact points on the cpu, or in contact with other pins then no. In that case If you have steady hands, fine needles and can find jewlers tweezers... straighten them so they are coming in contact with the proper golden contact pads it should be fine.
 

Invis

Member
Not sure if we have a dedicated monitor thread, but I'm looking to upgrade from 1080p. Does anyone have either an ASUS PB278Q or BenQ GW2765HT, or know about these two monitors in general? I'm looking for a 27" IPS 1440p monitor under $450 can't decide between these.
 

Symphonia

Banned
Well have a lot more info about the 1060 tomorrow so it wouldn't be a bad idea to wait and see what the performance look like there.
What's the latest graphics card that everyone is going mad for? The 1080 or something? I think Terry Crews even got one. Is that worth getting?
 
What's the latest graphics card that everyone is going mad for? The 1080 or something? I think Terry Crews even got one. Is that worth getting?

IMO? No way. 1070 maybe (it's what I own, it really depends on what you're playing on. I'm going for 1440/144hz). If you're 1080/60 I'd say no it's overkill look at the 480/1060.

The 1080 is about 20% extra performance over the 1070 for a premium of $220-270

1080 has a 52-63% price premium depending on model over the 1070. (Only the founders edition and water cooled $800 versions are in stock)

1070 average for a good card is $430
1080 average for a good card is $650

Not worth it to me personally and many reviewers and tech sites have mirrored this opinion in their reviews of the 1070/1080.
 

Fracas

#fuckonami
What gpu and how high did you try to OC? If it's your first time OC, don't listen and try what other people get, but only increase in small increments.

It's a Titan Black. I'm a moron and completely forgot it's a EVGA SC card, so trying to get much more out of it would be hard.

Right now I'm just sitting at +100MHz for core and memory clock. Seems pretty stable. Tops out at like 75C under full load and high fan usage. Even after owning it for a year and a half, I'm pretty happy with the performance. Still running basically everything I throw at it on high/ultra at 1080p/60fps. If I had the cash I'd go for a 1070, though. Seems like it's much more efficient and runs cooler, too.
 
Hi Gaf, I don't need a new PC (yet) but tonight my monitor just broke so I'm stuck on my phone. It was from 2007 (Samsung 245bw) so it had a good run, though I would rather have it not broken.

Anyway, it's been a long while since I got a new monitor. I went through the data in the OP, but there are some questions I didn't find the answers to:

1) TN, VA, IPS, etc: I read the linked article in the OP but it contains fairly technical information and a lot of it, and not really a specific conclusion. Realistically given my budget I guess it is TN vs IPS, but should I actively avoid TN and get IPS? Or TN is still quite good? Games are a primary focus of my PC, but I mostly play RPG and 4X, with some faster paced like Dark Souls, Skyrim, etc. Rarely FPS and never racing or sim.

2) Prices seem down a bit, and I could get a 27" instead of a 24", but both sets would be 1080p. The 27" is hardly and price difference, is this because 24" is on it's way out, or is it because the 27" provides an inferior display to the 24" and is trying to sell on size alone? Is a 27" a safe bet, or I should stick with 24" if I want better image/panel quality? (At 1080p either way).

3) Freesync: Is it as good as GSync? Does it require specific game support, or it is related only to the AMD card? I was planning on getting a 1060, but now that I need a new monitor I was toying with the idea of GSync. Unfortunately even the cheapest GSync monitors seem far above my budget, however Freesync (at least for Samsung) seems hardly more expensive than a "normal" monitor. If Freesync is every bit as good and the implementation doesn't require support in games, that may push me to a Freesync + 480 combo instead of the 1060.

TLDR: My monitor broke, and I have about a $300 CAD budget to replace it. I'm planning on sticking to 1080p. Is TN safe or I should get IPS only? Should I get 27", or does 24" have a superior panel? GSync seems to out of budget, but is Freesync worth it?
 
Hi Gaf, I don't need a new PC (yet) but tonight my monitor just broke so I'm stuck on my phone. It was from 2007 (Samsung 245bw) so it had a good run, though I would rather have it not broken.

Anyway, it's been a long while since I got a new monitor. I went through the data in the OP, but there are some questions I didn't find the answers to:

1) TN, VA, IPS, etc: I read the linked article in the OP but it contains fairly technical information and a lot of it, and not really a specific conclusion. Realistically given my budget I guess it is TN vs IPS, but should I actively avoid TN and get IPS? Or TN is still quite good? Games are a primary focus of my PC, but I mostly play RPG and 4X, with some faster paced like Dark Souls, Skyrim, etc. Rarely FPS and never racing or sim.

2) Prices seem down a bit, and I could get a 27" instead of a 24", but both sets would be 1080p. The 27" is hardly and price difference, is this because 24" is on it's way out, or is it because the 27" provides an inferior display to the 24" and is trying to sell on size alone? Is a 27" a safe bet, or I should stick with 24" if I want better image/panel quality? (At 1080p either way).

3) Freesync: Is it as good as GSync? Does it require specific game support, or it is related only to the AMD card? I was planning on getting a 1060, but now that I need a new monitor I was toying with the idea of GSync. Unfortunately even the cheapest GSync monitors seem far above my budget, however Freesync (at least for Samsung) seems hardly more expensive than a "normal" monitor. If Freesync is every bit as good and the implementation doesn't require support in games, that may push me to a Freesync + 480 combo instead of the 1060.

TLDR: My monitor broke, and I have about a $300 CAD budget to replace it. I'm planning on sticking to 1080p. Is TN safe or I should get IPS only? Should I get 27", or does 24" have a superior panel? GSync seems to out of budget, but is Freesync worth it?

Since you say you would like to stick with 1080p, I'd recommend this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2HH7G0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

It's a fairly popular model and for good reason.i have one myself and the colors are very vibrant, and I love the 144fps for certain games like Rocket League and DOOM. Also no dithering in simple window management. You WILL notice a difference when simply browsing the web. Nice and smooth.

I would consider it a really solid main monitor, and it will even work as a great secondary monitor once 4k becomes more standardized imo.
 

Shrennin

Didn't get the memo regarding the 14th Amendment
I ended up cancelling my initial order before it was processed to make some adjustments. Here is my new build:

NCIXUS:

CPU
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

CPU Cooler
Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H105 Extreme Performance 240MM CPU Cooler W/Customizable PWM Fan Speed

Motherboard
ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Impact mITX LGA1151 Z170 Skylake 1PCI-E16 SATA3 HDMI DP Gaming Motherboard

Memory

Two G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series F4-3000C15D-16GVR DDR4 3000MHZ 16GB(8GBX2) 15-16-16-35 Memory Kit

Storage

Three Samsung 850 EVO 1TB 2.5” SATA 3 Solid State Drive (SSD) *IR-$50* (Games and whatnot will go here)

Samsung 850 Evo 250GB 2.5” SATA 3 Solid State Drive (SSD) With AES-256 Encryption (The OS will go on this)

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM (Pictures and whatnot will go here)

Video Card
Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card

Case
Corsair Graphite Series 760T Full Tower Gaming White Case ATX Toolfree SSD Cages Modular Drive Cage

Power Supply
Corsair Professional Series HX850I 850W ATX 80 Plus Platinum Power Supply W/10 Years Warranty

Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
$85.95 Buy

Case Fans
Two Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan

Sound Card

ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Express x1 Interface Sound Card

Ok, so I went crazy with some things, but just to make sure, do I need thermal paste with this setup? I also kinda want a good Blu-Ray optical drive, any suggestions? Is that power supply a good one? How does this new build look? I upgraded the Motherboard so it has wifi and that way I can avoid the adapter.

I'll wait a little bit to get feedback before I purchase it this time. =P
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Hi Gaf, I don't need a new PC (yet) but tonight my monitor just broke so I'm stuck on my phone. It was from 2007 (Samsung 245bw) so it had a good run, though I would rather have it not broken.

Anyway, it's been a long while since I got a new monitor. I went through the data in the OP, but there are some questions I didn't find the answers to:

1) TN, VA, IPS, etc: I read the linked article in the OP but it contains fairly technical information and a lot of it, and not really a specific conclusion. Realistically given my budget I guess it is TN vs IPS, but should I actively avoid TN and get IPS? Or TN is still quite good? Games are a primary focus of my PC, but I mostly play RPG and 4X, with some faster paced like Dark Souls, Skyrim, etc. Rarely FPS and never racing or sim.

2) Prices seem down a bit, and I could get a 27" instead of a 24", but both sets would be 1080p. The 27" is hardly and price difference, is this because 24" is on it's way out, or is it because the 27" provides an inferior display to the 24" and is trying to sell on size alone? Is a 27" a safe bet, or I should stick with 24" if I want better image/panel quality? (At 1080p either way).

3) Freesync: Is it as good as GSync? Does it require specific game support, or it is related only to the AMD card? I was planning on getting a 1060, but now that I need a new monitor I was toying with the idea of GSync. Unfortunately even the cheapest GSync monitors seem far above my budget, however Freesync (at least for Samsung) seems hardly more expensive than a "normal" monitor. If Freesync is every bit as good and the implementation doesn't require support in games, that may push me to a Freesync + 480 combo instead of the 1060.

TLDR: My monitor broke, and I have about a $300 CAD budget to replace it. I'm planning on sticking to 1080p. Is TN safe or I should get IPS only? Should I get 27", or does 24" have a superior panel? GSync seems to out of budget, but is Freesync worth it?

Whether or not TN is good enough is going to vary from person to person. Do viewing angles matter to you/are you going to view from angles other than straight ahead? If so avoid TN. Do you want decent contrast and color reproduction? If so avoid TN.

Neither of those are terribly important for "gaming monitor," and for most people a decent to good TN panel is fine. Especially if they aren't comparing to something better side by side.


I can't really speak on the quality of Gsync and Freesync (I have a Freesync monitor now but my Nvidia GPU obviously can't do much with it, getting a nonreference 480 though). But as far as I've seen Gsync is better due to offering more features (overdrive and working with borderless window games, and not just exclusive fullscreen), but freesync is fine as a more basic adaptive sync option. The main thing to be aware of with freesync is the supported range, since it varies a ton. Some monitors only support as little as a 15hz adaptive sync range, or don't support it up to their max refresh rate of 120/144hz.


I also think 27" is too big for 1080p. 24" is about the maximum before you want to jump up to 1440 or pixel density starts getting too low. IMO. Others clearly have differing opinions and think 27" 1080p is fine since they are fairly popular, or feel at 24" 1080p is even too low.
 

Nerrel

Member
Random question... why don't cases have side-fan mounts anymore? I bought my case in 2012 and it and most of the other options at the time had them:

Now, looking through the current cases it's hard to find one. Just wondering why they've apparently been phased out. I know a front fan works better for overall air circulation, but the side fan does help the GPU out.
 
Hey guys, just need an opinion on where to mount my AIO liquid cooler. I got a Corsair H80i GT cooler if that matters.

So the red arrows indicate airflow direction and are currently all 140mm fans. I'm looking to mount the cooler as a rear exhaust but can someone please let me know if I should mount it anywhere else and why? I noticed that most people with my case mount their rads on the top but they're mostly 240mm rads or larger.

M1PhAOKl.jpg
 

BizzyBum

Member
I just tried 3DMark and have a few questions.

1. My Time Spy score was 6,665. My new PC is just running on stock factory settings so no overclocks. Is there a way to see an estimated score for my hardware with different overclocks without actually doing the overclocks and running the benchmark again?

2. Fire Strike benchmarks show as "Not Available" to me even though it says it's installed in Steam. How do I unlock this?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Hey guys, just need an opinion on where to mount my AIO liquid cooler. I got a Corsair H80i GT cooler if that matters.

So the red arrows indicate airflow direction and are currently all 140mm fans. I'm looking to mount the cooler as a rear exhaust but can someone please let me know if I should mount it anywhere else and why? I noticed that most people with my case mount their rads on the top but they're mostly 240mm rads or larger.

M1PhAOKl.jpg

Ideally you want it as an intake, so it's not drawing in warm air from the GPU exhaust. It probably doesn't matter much, back, top, or top front if it reaches could all work fine.

Top front probably wouldn't look the best, but that would probably be my personal first choice just to keep bottom/front to top/back airflow for the GPU.
 

gatti-man

Member
Random question... why don't cases have side-fan mounts anymore? I bought my case in 2012 and it and most of the other options at the time had them:


Now, looking through the current cases it's hard to find one. Just wondering why they've apparently been phased out. I know a front fan works better for overall air circulation, but the side fan does help the GPU out.

HAFX still does but yeah big fans with filters on the side are huge for air flow. Not sure why more cases don't have them.
 

Buggy Loop

Member
Yo PC gaf, i can have a Schiit Magnit 2 uber + modi (v1) for 120$ cnd, thats ~90$ US.
Is that a deal? How would a xonar u7 compare amp wise ? Im only driving headphones (Sennheiser HD 555)
 

Jedi2016

Member
Temperature question: I'm using Speedfan to check my CPU temperatures, and it's reading all three of my hard drives as running at 55C+, which is pretty damned hot for a hard drive. But when I look at the SMART readings for all three drives, they're much lower, around 35, which is well within normal operating temperatures. Some kind of glitch in what Speedfan is reading? I'm more inclined to believe the SMART readings, since there's no reason for the drives to be that hot.

I have noticed my CPU getting warmer than it did before I installed my 1080. I can think of one simple reason, is that the games are forcing more CPU calls since they're running at a (much) higher framerate. That's a guess, at any rate. But I opened the case to check out the temps personally and noticed that the back of the 1080 is quite hot, which is only an inch or so below the CPU heatsink. I'm not sure how much transfer there is in a situation like that. I've bumped up the fan curve on the GPU to see if it'll help, but I haven't tested it yet.
 

Trigg

Banned
Temperature question: I'm using Speedfan to check my CPU temperatures, and it's reading all three of my hard drives as running at 55C+, which is pretty damned hot for a hard drive. But when I look at the SMART readings for all three drives, they're much lower, around 35, which is well within normal operating temperatures. Some kind of glitch in what Speedfan is reading? I'm more inclined to believe the SMART readings, since there's no reason for the drives to be that hot.

I have noticed my CPU getting warmer than it did before I installed my 1080. I can think of one simple reason, is that the games are forcing more CPU calls since they're running at a (much) higher framerate. That's a guess, at any rate. But I opened the case to check out the temps personally and noticed that the back of the 1080 is quite hot, which is only an inch or so below the CPU heatsink. I'm not sure how much transfer there is in a situation like that. I've bumped up the fan curve on the GPU to see if it'll help, but I haven't tested it yet.

Speedfan routinely reads wrong. Try hwinfo or speccy. If they read the same then you seem to have an issue, probably poor airflow.

Is your 1080 a blower or one of the triple fan designs? Triple fans spit heat back into the case, so you need better airflow.

http://www.hwinfo.com/
https://www.piriform.com/speccy
 
Yo PC gaf, i can have a Schiit Magnit 2 uber + modi (v1) for 120$ cnd, thats ~90$ US.
Is that a deal? How would a xonar u7 compare amp wise ? Im only driving headphones (Sennheiser HD 555)

That's a good deal for a Schiit stack, considering the Magni2 itself is normally $99 (US). The Sennheiser 555 wouldn't really benefit, though, since it's a low impedance headphone. The Modi DAC would be better than onboard for sure.
 

kuYuri

Member
Temperature question: I'm using Speedfan to check my CPU temperatures, and it's reading all three of my hard drives as running at 55C+, which is pretty damned hot for a hard drive. But when I look at the SMART readings for all three drives, they're much lower, around 35, which is well within normal operating temperatures. Some kind of glitch in what Speedfan is reading? I'm more inclined to believe the SMART readings, since there's no reason for the drives to be that hot.

I have noticed my CPU getting warmer than it did before I installed my 1080. I can think of one simple reason, is that the games are forcing more CPU calls since they're running at a (much) higher framerate. That's a guess, at any rate. But I opened the case to check out the temps personally and noticed that the back of the 1080 is quite hot, which is only an inch or so below the CPU heatsink. I'm not sure how much transfer there is in a situation like that. I've bumped up the fan curve on the GPU to see if it'll help, but I haven't tested it yet.

Speedfan was messed up for me. It was saying my i7 4790k CPU was at 80+°C when it wasn't even anywhere close to that. So I stopped using it and switched to MSI Afterburner for temp readings.
 

Jedi2016

Member
Is your 1080 a blower or one of the triple fan designs? Triple fans spit heat back into the case, so you need better airflow.
Double-fan, EVGA FTW. My previous card was a blower. I do have an extra fan there now, moved up from next to the PSU (where it wasn't even hooked up), and is now blowing from the front of the system onto the GPU. GPU temps in general seem lower than the blower model, and certainly quieter even at decent fan speed.

Thanks for the tip on the software.
 

Shrennin

Didn't get the memo regarding the 14th Amendment
Is this version of the GTX 1080 good? Or should I wait and get a different version once it is in stock at NCIXUS?

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 1721/1860 MHz 8GB GDDR5X SLI G-SYNC Ansel VR Graphics Card
 
Is this version of the GTX 1080 good? Or should I wait and get a different version once it is in stock at NCIXUS?

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 1721/1860 MHz 8GB GDDR5X SLI G-SYNC Ansel VR Graphics Card

Pretty much all the founders edition are identical. What kind of monitor do you have?
 

Trigg

Banned
Is this version of the GTX 1080 good? Or should I wait and get a different version once it is in stock at NCIXUS?

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 1721/1860 MHz 8GB GDDR5X SLI G-SYNC Ansel VR Graphics Card

All cards are basically the same. Get whichever you can and whichever you think looks better.
 
How is this for $800?

5 6600k@3.5
Corsair H100i
Asus Z170m Plus mobo
Evga Gtx 970 SC
8GB HyperX ddr4 2400mhz
Adata 120gb SSD
500Gb HDD
Bitfenix Fury 650 Watt modular 80+ Gold unit with sleeved black cables
Windows 10 64bit

iARjAee.jpg


RwPgLCm.jpg


I feel like it's a good deal, especially with the new mobo and cpu, and I can easily add another stick of ram. Also, going from 0 computer to new computer.

Yes/No?
 

Shrennin

Didn't get the memo regarding the 14th Amendment

Fracas

#fuckonami
How is this for $800?

5 6600k@3.5
Corsair H100i
Asus Z170m Plus mobo
Evga Gtx 970 SC
8GB HyperX ddr4 2400mhz
Adata 120gb SSD
500Gb HDD
Bitfenix Fury 650 Watt modular 80+ Gold unit with sleeved black cables
Windows 10 64bit

I feel like it's a good deal, especially with the new mobo and cpu, and I can easily add another stick of ram. Also, going from 0 computer to new computer.

Yes/No?

That's a really good deal, I think
 
Ok, awesome! Thanks! I didn't even think that was a founder edition, but that's the only card currently available. =P

I also have this monitor:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2HH7G0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Oh ok nice, you've got a good 1080/144hz monitor. Yea any 1080 will go way above and beyond. Honestly you'd be great with a 1070 too. So that's an option if you want to shave off about $270 or so on your GPU. The 1070 is about 20% or so weaker but likely would still provide you with a phenomenal gaming experience for years.
 

Geist-

Member
Hey guys, I have a few questions. I have a 780 Ti, and it's not too bad, but the 3gb video memory is causing a few bottlenecks. I was thinking of waiting for Volta (or the 1100 series), but I'm not sure I want to wait until 2018.

My question is, if I am willing, should I wait for the 1080 Ti cards or is the increased performance not worth waiting for with the 1080 available now (well, when they're in stock anyway).
 

Bigrx1

Banned
unbelievable the price drops in a few years. Got a dell 1440 p monitor some years back for 1400 bucks. THE PAIN!
 

Shrennin

Didn't get the memo regarding the 14th Amendment
Oh ok nice, you've got a good 1080/144hz monitor. Yea any 1080 will go way above and beyond. Honestly you'd be great with a 1070 too. So that's an option if you want to shave off about $270 or so on your GPU. The 1070 is about 20% or so weaker but likely would still provide you with a phenomenal gaming experience for years.

Any recommendations on a good 1070 that's available at NCISUX?
 

Hansel

Banned
Howdy computer-GAF, I'm building a PC for the first time pretty much just to play TF2 and I know the game is old but I crave those sweet sweet frames so I bought an Asus VG248QE and I really wanna utilize that 144hz goodness. What GPU and CPU would I need to get like 120+ frames on average?

Edit: motherboard is a Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI by the way. Also I have 8gb of DDR4 2400, would I benefit from more?
 
Hey everyone. Planning to get a 2nd gtx 1080 in the next few months, can anyone confirm g sync works fine with sli? I remember there being issues a year ago or so.
 

Fracas

#fuckonami
That's what I thought too. What are some big pros on this PC that make it a good deal?

It comes out like $200+ cheaper than if you bought all the parts yourself. Add an extra stick of RAM and it's a high-end rig. It's already set up for future upgrades with a decent PSU and current-socket motherboard and processor.

And it's also already put together (really well, I might add). Unless there's some hidden issue, I'd jump on that if I was looking to build.
 
It comes out like $200+ cheaper than if you bought all the parts yourself. Add an extra stick of RAM and it's a high-end rig. It's already set up for future upgrades with a decent PSU and current-socket motherboard and processor.

And it's also already put together (really well, I might add). Unless there's some hidden issue, I'd jump on that if I was looking to build.

Nice. I was leaning heavily towards buy but I needed the PCGAF seal of approval since I've never built my own rig before. Always had laptop dGPU, so this should be a bit of an upgrade
 

reKon

Banned
The KB830 is a GREAT keyboard if you're looking for a regular sized one for an HTPC. I'm really impressed. I'm upgrading from the KB400, which has served me well. It's selling for $55 right now on Amazon, which was is the lowest price that it's been at in a while.
 
Ideally you want it as an intake, so it's not drawing in warm air from the GPU exhaust. It probably doesn't matter much, back, top, or top front if it reaches could all work fine.

Top front probably wouldn't look the best, but that would probably be my personal first choice just to keep bottom/front to top/back airflow for the GPU.

Thanks for the input, i might probably have to play around with different mounting positions. I'm still leaning towards to the rear or top rear exhaust positions.
 

Stubo

Member
I ended up cancelling my initial order before it was processed to make some adjustments. Here is my new build:

NCIXUS:

CPU
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

CPU Cooler
Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H105 Extreme Performance 240MM CPU Cooler W/Customizable PWM Fan Speed

Motherboard
ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Impact mITX LGA1151 Z170 Skylake 1PCI-E16 SATA3 HDMI DP Gaming Motherboard

Memory

Two G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series F4-3000C15D-16GVR DDR4 3000MHZ 16GB(8GBX2) 15-16-16-35 Memory Kit

Storage

Three Samsung 850 EVO 1TB 2.5” SATA 3 Solid State Drive (SSD) *IR-$50* (Games and whatnot will go here)

Samsung 850 Evo 250GB 2.5” SATA 3 Solid State Drive (SSD) With AES-256 Encryption (The OS will go on this)

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM (Pictures and whatnot will go here)

Video Card
Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card

Case
Corsair Graphite Series 760T Full Tower Gaming White Case ATX Toolfree SSD Cages Modular Drive Cage

Power Supply
Corsair Professional Series HX850I 850W ATX 80 Plus Platinum Power Supply W/10 Years Warranty

Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
$85.95 Buy

Case Fans
Two Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan

Sound Card

ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Express x1 Interface Sound Card

Ok, so I went crazy with some things, but just to make sure, do I need thermal paste with this setup? I also kinda want a good Blu-Ray optical drive, any suggestions? Is that power supply a good one? How does this new build look? I upgraded the Motherboard so it has wifi and that way I can avoid the adapter.

I'll wait a little bit to get feedback before I purchase it this time. =P
You don't need thermal paste with these parts unless you're going to re-apply the cooler, it comes with pre-installed paste.

Either base your blu ray drive purchase over the read/write speeds or look on silentpc for the quietest option.

The power supply is a quality unit, you shouldn't have any problems there.

General comments - I'd definitely suggest a custom cooler 1080, 3x 1Tb SSDs seems ever so slightly overkill(!) and having an mITX motherboard in a large case like the 760T will look something like this:

EmDZIHP.jpg
 

Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member
Asked a while back but didn't get any responses.

Any recommendations for mATX cases similar to the SG10? Front mounted PSU, small size but takes full size components without much issue.

About the only things I've seen are the various Bitfenix mATX cases, which seem to be around the same price and look nicer, but I don't like their interiors nearly as much. SG10 seems like it will cool much more effectively.

Definitely leaning towards this one when I upgrade, but I'm still trying to find more options for small mATX cases. ITX is not an option since I need the slots from mATX. TJ08 is also nice but bigger without any benefits (for me) other than nicer looks.

Parvum
Jonsbo
Silverstone
Lian Li

how much are you willing to spend on a case? Ive used some really nice mATX cases from Parvum. They probably are my favorite case maker since ive bought the L1.0, even more than caselabs. Otherwise other than Jonsbo I feel silverstone and Lian Li are the the other good mATX makers.

http://www.parvumsystems.com/product/r1-0-matx ~220USD
http://www.parvumsystems.com/product/s2-5-matx ~150USD

Great cable management, the PSU gets its own compartment on the back side of the case, water cooling friendly actually, i actually have my r1.0 custom cooled, overall the design is really well thought out. Its made from acrylic, a bit more expensive of a material but it looks much nicer.
 
I'm looking for a aio cooler for my i5 6600k, is the enermax liqmax II 240 good? I'm also looking at the corsair 400c and is possible to find other case with a full size window panel?
 

Vuze

Member
I'm looking for a aio cooler for my i5 6600k, is the enermax liqmax II 240 good? I'm also looking at the corsair 400c and is possible to find other case with a full size window panel?
Don't know about the Enermax, but depending on where you are located or which look you prefer, I'd go with an EK Predator or a Swiftech kit. Both are expandable and refillable.

As for a nice looking case with a large window, the Phanteks Evolv ATX comes to mind.
http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-TemperedGlass.html

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Might as well ask: Does anyone have experience with sticking LEDs on your monitor?
I got a lightpack kit the other day and it works pretty well and looks cool, but the Acer XB270HU has a rugged backside (which I didn't consider) and the LED strips are already falling off since the adhesive has barely any surface to stick to. I have a few Tesa "PowerStrips" (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000KJOC78/) on the way, couldn't really think of anything else that is not permanent but might be suitable for the surface.
 

Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member
Might as well ask: Does anyone have experience with sticking LEDs on your monitor?
I got a lightpack kit the other day and it works pretty well and looks cool, but the Acer XB270HU has a rugged backside (which I didn't consider) and the LED strips are already falling off since the adhesive has barely any surface to stick to. I have a few Tesa "PowerStrips" (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000KJOC78/) on the way, couldn't really think of anything else that is not permanent but might be suitable for the surface.

It might be stupid advice, I'm half asleep, but when I'm trying to stick something to uneven surfaces I go to the nearest arts and crafts store and buy the strongest wall gum I can find or strongest double sided bonding material.
 
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