Amazon Link
For some reason the above PCParts list says it's available from Amazon at $810 but only lists a Newegg link. The Newegg link is seemingly different?
Bottom line is the above link an AIO cooler + GPU combo? The pictures don't show a radiator/fan/tubes like others typically do. I'm confused.
Thanks!
This amazon link is for a GPU with a water block for a custom water loop. So you'll need all those extra parts to use it. I'm Guessing the extra "WB" on the product name comes from Water Block as well. You want the "Waterforce Xtreme" not the "Waterforce WB Xtreme".
Hello, my parents bought a pre-built HP 6 years ago. I was hoping to upgrade the video card, any recommendations? I'm in Canada, with a budget under 300, if possible.
Pre-built: https://support.hp.com/ca-en/document/c03298983
Also, Intel's coffee lake is revealed on the 21st, probably would be worth waiting a few days for.Thank you VERY much! Greatly appreciated. Knowing me I would've fucked that up big time.
i need help
okay i got the s340 elite. it has one rear fan and one top fan and two slots in the front
the rear im going to exhaust
the top exhaust
and the two in the front im gonna put an 280mm CPU radiator cooler. so with the cpu cooler, should i put the fans to exhaust out the case or to intake air ?
Hello, my parents bought a pre-built HP 6 years ago. I was hoping to upgrade the video card, any recommendations? I'm in Canada, with a budget under 300, if possible.
Pre-built: https://support.hp.com/ca-en/document/c03298983
Really considering building my first gaming PC. I've pieced together a build that I might be interested in. I'm on somewhat of a budget so if anyone has any suggestions please don't hesitate to give advice.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/K8W8NN
@ISee + OmegaTreeFish R5 1600 SCREAMS "Overclock me!" B350 chipset boards (i.e.: OC works) are just $20 or 30 more compared to the A320 ones (no OC). The included cooler is fine for OCing, too. Currently using mine at 3.6 Ghz, but I could go well beyond that (~3.8 should definitely be possible).
If I am not really interested in overclocking etc should I care about this difference?
If I am not really interested in overclocking etc should I care about this difference?
Of course, but this way I was able to make something that is exactly as expansive as the buiuld he put together by himself, while being stronger for gaming. Also OC isn't something first time builders feel comfortable to do, but sure if he wants to go for a B350 and oc I encourage him to do so.
Even if you're not interested now, you may be interested in the future.
I have built plenty in the past. Its just something I fell off of as life got busier. I wont have interest in overclocker. I never have. When it gets to that point I will just buy a new CPU.
Its a time thing. I just want a machine that I can upgrade like I used to. Never cared about the difference between high and ultra. More than happy using medium. Hell, I use a 1st gen alpha t the mo and still play games happily on low settings. However my son is starting to get older and I have a little more time to do stuff again and want to get a proper PC again rather than several half way solutions that I have done in recent years (gaming laptop and alpha).
My main thoughts are:
1 - is that MB fine if all I want to do is have the parts I put in it work?
2 - is it really worth using a R5 1600 rather than the 1400 when I am going to get a new CPU in 3 years (or when ever the next gen starts).
I have built plenty in the past. Its just something I fell off of as life got busier. I wont have interest in overclocker. I never have. When it gets to that point I will just buy a new CPU.
Its a time thing. I just want a machine that I can upgrade like I used to. Never cared about the difference between high and ultra. More than happy using medium. Hell, I use a 1st gen alpha t the mo and still play games happily on low settings. However my son is starting to get older and I have a little more time to do stuff again and want to get a proper PC again rather than several half way solutions that I have done in recent years (gaming laptop and alpha).
My main thoughts are:
1 - is that MB fine if all I want to do is have the parts I put in it work?
2 - is it really worth using a R5 1600 rather than the 1400 when I am going to get a new CPU in 3 years (or when ever the next gen starts).
Hi guys, I need help and please don't take the mickey as PC upgrades are totally new to me, only bought a cheap pc last month after 30+ years of console gaming.
So I picked up a very cheap Alienware x51 for a bargain price of free. it has a GTX 745 and I am happy playing battlegrounds on very low settings and it runs fine at 40 - 60 fps. But I want to change this card. From what I understand I have the 240 w power supply so my options are limited and reference blower cards are best for this small case.
I have the opportunity to buy either a cheap GTX 1050 ti or a cheap GTX 960 4gb. The comparison site I went on say the 960 will offer a bigger increase percentage wise but others say 1050 ti is the better choice in my case. Does anyone know if either of these cards is better than the other?
Thanks guys
In that case, stick with the board you picked. The CPU, I really don't think you'll even need to upgrade it in 3 years with the R5 1600, but if you're set on upgrading it in three years, why not just got for a R3 1200 or 1300X?
1.) It is the cheapest MB I was able to find. It will work fine, but it is very limited in its functions (limited number of usb ports, less SATA connections, just two memory slots, less PCIE lanes, no OC capabilities). I also wouldn't bet on it receiving a BIOS upgrade in the future that will make it compatible with ryzen+/ryzen 2. It could happen, but I doubt it. If you want something more future proof, something with better ram compatibility (if you decide that you need more/faster ram in the future) and something that has a higher chance of receiving a bios update that will make it compatible with coming ryzen CPUs I'd take a look at good B350 or even at cheaper X370 MBs.
2.) Chances are good for the 1600 to be able to hold out longer than just three years. Is the 1400 enough for today? For the most part, yes. I'd still recommend getting the 1600 and not having to worry about CPU bottlenecks.
At stock speeds the 960 is ~ 13% faster than a 1050Ti (2.4 vs 2.1 tflops), but only buy the 960 if it is a 4GB model, because you won't be happy with just 2GB of VRAM in the year 2017+. No matter how cheap it is.
At stock speeds the 960 is ~ 13% faster than a 1050Ti (2.4 vs 2.1 tflops), but only buy the 960 if it is a 4GB model, because you won't be happy with just 2GB of VRAM in the year 2017+. No matter how cheap it is.
Thanks for the info.
Maybe I will up it to a b350 board then as that is an option for me.
I will have to just go with what I can afford. The way its going I will prob go with a Ryzen 1600 and either a B350-F or X370-Pro board and then if I cant afford a 1070 after than just get a 1060 as its still more than capable of doing what I personally need right now. Then I might even get away with just a GPU and RAM upgrade next gen.
Sounds like a good plan. Still waiting for the new i5 might be the better option, but apparently GPUs will become even more expansive again next month (GDDR5 prices are increasing by 33%), so... who knows.
The last 4-5 months were really bad for building a new PC and there is no improvement in sight for the near future.
Btw good pick on the B350-F. Good motherboard, with a fantastic on board sound solution. Plug in a headset witch jacks into it and enjoy clear and clean sound. If you want you can even activate the DTS:X enchancement to give any stereo headset the virtual 7.1 treatment. I can't give that thing enough praise for the awesome sound quality.
If no lights are coming on are you sure your PSU is 1. Plugged in and 2. The power switch on the PSU is in the on position? I've made stupider mistakes before that about had me RMA a mobo xP.
Also your power switch connector isn't attached to the mobo in the second pic.
As a follow-up to this: It all works now, took a look at it with fresh eyes and completely redid the power cables and now everything works.Is the 8 pin cable fully inserted? It kind of looks like one half is sticking out a little bit (though it could just be the image).
As a follow-up to this: It all works now, took a look at it with fresh eyes and completely redid the power cables and now everything works.
Thanks, I just need a keyboard now.Awesome, glad it worked out.
Are SSD prices expected to go down in the near future? I saw WD's new 3D NAND 1TB being sold for $180 from a reputable seller on Amazon two days ago and now they're sold out. All other 1TB SSDs are like $260 and up and now I really don't want to purchase one if I can expect to save $50-100 if I wait a month or two. I really want to get 1 or 2TB in my new PC.
Card prices are all terrible right now due to miners sucking up supply, but at minimum, a 1060 with 6GB RAM should be enough for you. A 1070 would probably be better, but those are absurdly expensive.Currently using a gtx 670. Fine for now, mainly play pubg and it's fine.
Looking to up my ram and replace gpu. Looking at a 1060. Worth it or should I wait on something else?
Wife wants dual monitors for when she's working from home so I can say I probably won't be on 1080p much longer.
Would an amd card be a better choice?
No sense buying a 4c/4t i5 7500 system in a world where the 6c/12t R5 1600 exists and Intel is about to lunch a new 6c/6t i5 8400 in a couple of weeks.
If you don't want to wait for the i5 8400 to become available, take a look at this build:
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bZYBVY
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bZYBVY/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.65 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - A320M-DGS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: PNY - CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($269.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Corsair - 100R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair - VS 550W ATX Power Supply
Total: $722.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-18 04:34 EDT-0400
Much better and stronger CPU and a 1060 with 6GB. Granted the GPU on the 6GB model could clock a bit slower than the dual fan cooled 1060 3GB you picked, but the 6GB version has more shader units which will easily make up for the minimal difference in clock speeds. And having 6GB of VRAM will allow you to use better textures without any kind of problems.
Probably not, because even if you get extra frequency, you're stuck in the Intel trap of having to completely replace the guts of the system when you want to upgrade.Thanks for the response. Would it be a good idea to wait for the i5 8400? I'm not in any real rush as of yet. Just trying to plan out a modest PC that can play most games at 1080/60. Mainly I'm building this PC to play Overwatch and Starcraft 2 but the more I look into it the more I want PC gaming to be my main home from playing games.
Probably not, because even if you get extra frequency, you're stuck in the Intel trap of having to completely replace the guts of the system when you want to upgrade.
Also, why are you buying an A320 and a Ryzen 1600? You need to get a B350 or X370 board, slap that R5 1600 in it, then in 3-4 years, when the final iteration of Ryzen is released, slap in the 8c/16t R5 they'll probably have.
That was just a build that was suggested to me but thanks for the input. Are there any really big difference between AMD and Intel when it comes to CPU performance for gaming? As a general rule of thumb or something.
Thanks for the response. Would it be a good idea to wait for the i5 8400? I'm not in any real rush as of yet. Just trying to plan out a modest PC that can play most games at 1080/60. Mainly I'm building this PC to play Overwatch and Starcraft 2 but the more I look into it the more I want PC gaming to be my main home from playing games.
I have two 24 inch monitors with different resolution, when I move the mouse between them it doesn't line up properly at the same relative place and there's also this annoying wall where the mouse gets stuck. Anyone know how to fix this? I tried google but found nothing...
I was just reading a report that GDDR (used in GPUs) is seeing a 30% price hike this month/next month, so GPU prices may be going up soon due to increased memory costs. That's not the same as what is used in SSDs, but I'm not optimistic given this news... I'm also in the market for a 1 TB SSD and am looking daily to try and snag any good deals as I think, outside of maybe some great-but-limited sales near Black Friday, prices will be going up slowly.
Right now, AMD is slower, but you get more cores and threads at better price points, plus their CPU socket will be forward compatible and you can overclock all their CPUs on B350 and X370 motherbaords. Intel is faster, but their stuff costs more and has near zero forward compatibility, plus you can only overclock i3/i5/i7 chips with "K" at the end of the number with a Z### chipset.That was just a build that was suggested to me but thanks for the input. Are there any really big difference between AMD and Intel when it comes to CPU performance for gaming? As a general rule of thumb or something.
When replacing a CPU, Motherboard, and RAM, is there anything I need to do with Windows? Like a reinstallation?
Or do I just swap everything out?
I'm asking because I apparently have a buyer for my 4690k setup, and now I'm looking to buy a new setup next week. Thinking Ryzen.
I swapped from an Intel CPU/mobo to an AMD CPU/mobo and didn't reinstall Windows 10. It worked fine. However, almost anyone out there will tell you (and I agree with this) that you should reinstall Windows when swapping motherboards, especially if going from Intel to AMD or vice versa.
Lot simpler than having to go through and purge every associated driver that you can think of, that's for sure.
I expect the new i5 to become the new goto CPU for mainstream builds. That said the r5 1600 will also be a good option and is right now the goto CPU for mainstream builds.
If you want your PC to become your main source for video games I'd recommend you look into getting a 1070 or RX Vega 56 instead of a GTX 1060. It's not mandatory, but you will get far better results, even at 1080p/60.
Right now, AMD is slower, but you get more cores and threads at better price points, plus their CPU socket will be forward compatible and you can overclock all their CPUs on B350 and X370 motherbaords. Intel is faster, but their stuff costs more and has near zero forward compatibility, plus you can only overclock i3/i5/i7 chips with "K" at the end of the number with a Z### chipset.
Also, Intel has problems with their chips getting hot due to bad glue applications for the heat spreader, while AMD chips are currently made on a process where it can't handle going over 4GHz without getting super hot.
Both will get you 1080p/60+FPS, but if you need to have the absolute highest frame rate, you need to get an Intel unlocked CPU and Z(insert number of compatible chipset) motherboard.
A Gigabyte or Asrock B350 Gaming motherboard plus an R5 1600 will easily get you 1080p/60FPS, and if you overclock it, you'll get more performance basically for free.
When do you guys think this mining craze will die off enough for graphics cards to be affordable again? I don't really want to pay a couple hundred extra for a new card.