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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Hey all, my friend is looking to build a PC and is considering the following build:
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro Series PH-ES614P_BK Black Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Motherboard: ASRock Z270 Extreme 4 LGA 1151 Intel Z270 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 ATX Motherboards - Intel
HDD: WD Black 2TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD2003FZEX
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz LGA 1151 BX80677I77700K Desktop Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 120x120x25 (NF-F12 PWM) SSO2-Bearing ( Self-stabilising oil-presure bearing ) CPU Cooler
RAM: G.SKILL Aegis 16GB 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Intel Z170 Platform / Intel X99 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-2400C15S-16GIS
GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming GV-N1080G1 GAMING-8GD Video Card
It looks fine to me at first glance but I'm not super knowledgeable, so would love some feedback if something looks totally off here.
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro Series PH-ES614P_BK Black Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Motherboard: ASRock Z270 Extreme 4 LGA 1151 Intel Z270 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 ATX Motherboards - Intel
HDD: WD Black 2TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD2003FZEX
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz LGA 1151 BX80677I77700K Desktop Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 120x120x25 (NF-F12 PWM) SSO2-Bearing ( Self-stabilising oil-presure bearing ) CPU Cooler
RAM: G.SKILL Aegis 16GB 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Intel Z170 Platform / Intel X99 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-2400C15S-16GIS
GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming GV-N1080G1 GAMING-8GD Video Card
It looks fine to me at first glance but I'm not super knowledgeable, so would love some feedback if something looks totally off here.
I just got done shopping around for the best 1080Ti myself and the Asus Strix is probably the better card. The Gigabyte Aorus often edges it out in terms of performance, but only just, and is ever-so slightly quieter both idling and during load. But it's ugly as sin and is a lot taller than the Strix, if case your case is cramped.
That said, currently the Strix is $50 more than the Auros is, so right this minute I'd personally go with the Auros unless aesthetics are really important to you.
Thanks!
Thanks I've been told the strix by a few but aorus doesn't look too bad in price. WHY IS THIS SO HARD 🙃
Bloodember
Member
Looks good, but he needs a psu also. 550 watt will do.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Awesome thanks.
It's even harder when you try shopping for more middle-of-the-road cards, like the 1060 or 1070. There's easily 3-4x's as many models of those cards out there to compare and read up on. It's kind of a nightmare.
Bloodember
Member
He might also want to add a SSD, the performance gain will be more than worth the extra money for it.
ISee
Member
I think most of us were in a similar situation when picking up a new gpu. At least I was (just a normal 1080 though). The cards you picked are the best of the best, with very good cooling and superior build quality so picking one is indeed difficult. Personally I went with the strix because there are several edited bios versions for it which give you more controll and headroom for overclockability, but I'm not really sure if that's also the case for the Ti. In the end I'm very happy with it. It boosts to 2GHz without any need to OC and temperatures stay below 65°C, even when running at 2063+ MHz.
ISee
Member
Some 7700k overclocking data, just in case somebody is interested:
Base: 4500 MHz @ 1,248V = stable (T= ~70°C)
OC: 4550 MHz @ 1,248V = stable (T= ~70°C)
OC: 4650 MHz @ 1,248V = unstable
OC: 4650 MHz @ 1,264V = stable(T= ~75°C)
OC: 4700 MHz @ 1,264V = stable(T= ~75°C)
OC: 4725 MHz @ 1,264V = stable(T= ~75°C)
OC: 4750 MHz @ 1,264V = unstable
OC: 4750 MHz @ 1,280V = stable (T= ~80°C)
OC: 4775 MHz @ 1,280V = stable (T= ~80°C)
OC: 4800 MHz @ 1,280V = unstable
OC: 4800 MHz @ 1,296V = unstable
OC: 4800 MHz @ 1,312V = stable (T= ~85°C)
OC: 4825 MHz @ 1,312V = stable (T= ~85°C)
OC: 4850 MHz @ 1,312V = unstable
OC: 4850 MHz @ 1,328V = unstable
OC: 4850 MHz @ 1,344V = stable (T=95°C, further overclocking without watercooling and/or deliding is unreasonable. Aida 64 temp is just 88°C)
(I picked the base voltage, there is high chance that the base clock could run stable at a lower voltage.)
(stable = being able to run prime 29.9 with small FFTs for several minutes without anything crashing. Which an extreme load and very demanding, lower voltages for daily use and gaming are 100% possible. This way of testing is meant to be a way to quickly test for instability and to collect some initial data before further fine tuning.)
I think I'll finally settle for 4725 MHz @ 1,264V (after further stability testing). Temperatures are easy to handle, fan speed can be a bit lower and it is a 12.5% oc over a 7700 non k (or 6700k), which is at least something.
BTW: I'm running the Asus z270 A on the newest 1009 bios (28.07.2017) and DDR 4 overclock ability seems to be improved. My Gskill Ripjaws F4-3000C are now able to even hit 3084MHz - CL 14 @ 1,33V (XMP = 3000 MHz CL15 @ 1,352 V )
^
No idea what you're talking about. Everything looks fine (now)
Base: 4500 MHz @ 1,248V = stable (T= ~70°C)
OC: 4550 MHz @ 1,248V = stable (T= ~70°C)
OC: 4650 MHz @ 1,248V = unstable
OC: 4650 MHz @ 1,264V = stable(T= ~75°C)
OC: 4700 MHz @ 1,264V = stable(T= ~75°C)
OC: 4725 MHz @ 1,264V = stable(T= ~75°C)
OC: 4750 MHz @ 1,264V = unstable
OC: 4750 MHz @ 1,280V = stable (T= ~80°C)
OC: 4775 MHz @ 1,280V = stable (T= ~80°C)
OC: 4800 MHz @ 1,280V = unstable
OC: 4800 MHz @ 1,296V = unstable
OC: 4800 MHz @ 1,312V = stable (T= ~85°C)
OC: 4825 MHz @ 1,312V = stable (T= ~85°C)
OC: 4850 MHz @ 1,312V = unstable
OC: 4850 MHz @ 1,328V = unstable
OC: 4850 MHz @ 1,344V = stable (T=95°C, further overclocking without watercooling and/or deliding is unreasonable. Aida 64 temp is just 88°C)
(I picked the base voltage, there is high chance that the base clock could run stable at a lower voltage.)
(stable = being able to run prime 29.9 with small FFTs for several minutes without anything crashing. Which an extreme load and very demanding, lower voltages for daily use and gaming are 100% possible. This way of testing is meant to be a way to quickly test for instability and to collect some initial data before further fine tuning.)
I think I'll finally settle for 4725 MHz @ 1,264V (after further stability testing). Temperatures are easy to handle, fan speed can be a bit lower and it is a 12.5% oc over a 7700 non k (or 6700k), which is at least something.
BTW: I'm running the Asus z270 A on the newest 1009 bios (28.07.2017) and DDR 4 overclock ability seems to be improved. My Gskill Ripjaws F4-3000C are now able to even hit 3084MHz - CL 14 @ 1,33V (XMP = 3000 MHz CL15 @ 1,352 V )
^
No idea what you're talking about. Everything looks fine (now)RumblingRosco
Member
sheeeeeeeit that's a good price. No Fry's near me sadly.
I have a couple of questions for the enlightened people here...
I have to build a desktop PC for my parents. I can't find a decent integrated offer, so I'll go for a build (I build all my PCs, but somehow, I'm reluctant to do it for Windows machines)
I'll go i3 with an Asus B250M-A, and a Samsung SDD (unless someone talk against this) plus a normal HDD.
But:
- I'd like to pass on the graphic card to keep the cost down (it'll be basically a pure Word/Firefox machine) and use integrated Intel graphics... that's what I do myself, but I'm on Linux. Is it wrong?
- How should I buy Windows? I'm reluctant to buy anything tied to the hardware... in fact, I wish I could avoid Windows altogether, but I can't pass on Word :/
- Any good, solid, *compact* case that can fit the Micro ITX board, the SSD, the HDD, an internal optical drive, and possibly a SD/CF card reader (unless the case already have this) that I could find in France?
I have to build a desktop PC for my parents. I can't find a decent integrated offer, so I'll go for a build (I build all my PCs, but somehow, I'm reluctant to do it for Windows machines)
I'll go i3 with an Asus B250M-A, and a Samsung SDD (unless someone talk against this) plus a normal HDD.
But:
- I'd like to pass on the graphic card to keep the cost down (it'll be basically a pure Word/Firefox machine) and use integrated Intel graphics... that's what I do myself, but I'm on Linux. Is it wrong?
- How should I buy Windows? I'm reluctant to buy anything tied to the hardware... in fact, I wish I could avoid Windows altogether, but I can't pass on Word :/
- Any good, solid, *compact* case that can fit the Micro ITX board, the SSD, the HDD, an internal optical drive, and possibly a SD/CF card reader (unless the case already have this) that I could find in France?
End of an era. Happy retirement
This is good to know.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Built a PC for my dad this year. Except for internal card reader and Linux, pretty similar situation, used this case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ6A88G/?tag=neogaf0e-20. Didn't get him a GPU, but there's enough room for one. It allows normal size PSU, which is situated on top , leaving you no room for heatsinks more than around an inch or two taller than the stock intel cooler. I bough him windows 10 through ebay, cost me $9.
And these can accommodate card reader:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J0ZQAC/?tag=neogaf0e-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MKNNGW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
This one comes with it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009LHF4F4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Phatosaurus
Member
Note to self: Don't use stock thermal paste in the future.
The amount of paste on my wraith cooler was so thick it'd overflowed around the edges of the IHS and was absolutely pain to clean off. Applied some MX-4 last night, put the cooler back on annnnnnnnnnnnd of course then I found out that the backplate on the motherboard wasn't attached and it'd had dropped down.
With a lot of faffing around, I managed to get my hand under the motherboard, press the backplate up and screw the cooler in place.
Not looking forward to going through that whole song and dance again in the future.
Edit: Seems worth it though. I'm staying under 80c now at full load and it's pretty hot here today without much of a breeze flowing throough my window. I suspect that when I test late today, it'll hit around 75c at max load over 10-15 minutes.
The amount of paste on my wraith cooler was so thick it'd overflowed around the edges of the IHS and was absolutely pain to clean off. Applied some MX-4 last night, put the cooler back on annnnnnnnnnnnd of course then I found out that the backplate on the motherboard wasn't attached and it'd had dropped down.
With a lot of faffing around, I managed to get my hand under the motherboard, press the backplate up and screw the cooler in place.
Not looking forward to going through that whole song and dance again in the future.
Edit: Seems worth it though. I'm staying under 80c now at full load and it's pretty hot here today without much of a breeze flowing throough my window. I suspect that when I test late today, it'll hit around 75c at max load over 10-15 minutes.
SneakyJared
Banned
I have the EVGA FTW3 and I would recommend that. Really can't go wrong with anything from EVGA.
Frankfurter
Member
You can find them in various boards, but I don't think they'll be of any significant help. Every CPU is different, so you'll simply need to find out yourself.
Some general stuff to keep in mind, though: don't overclock both RAM and CPU at the same time. Start with one, say the CPU, overclock it step by step, check your final setting very thoroughly for stability and only then start pushing the RAM.
As a starting point, I'd say set your CPU Vcore to ~1.25V, overclock the CPU by ~200 Mhz and see if it's stable. Go on from there to OC the CPU by another 100 Mhz and so on until it's not stable anymore. This way, it's relatively easy to find optimal settings, i.e. the point before the CPU needs way more voltage for a low extra OC to still be stable.
RumblingRosco
Member
It's a good starting point for a Ryzen 1700 to aim for a 3.7 GHz overclock at 1.275 V. Not sure about thermals, and you might need to tweak that voltage up or down a bit to optimize things, but that is in general a fairly-doable number.
All TIs clock to around the same mark. EVGA has by far the best customer service, which you will definitely appreciate if something goes wrong with your $700+ GPU. I've had the Strix line of GPUs as well and they are really nice. From personal experience I'd always give benefit of the doubt to EVGA, they've really come through in the past for me.
ISee
Member
Many thanks for the suggestions...
Just looked... holy sh***. How can those even be legal?
That's gray-market OEM, I guess, that won't allow hardware modification? Still, at that cost... if Microsoft can validate them, I can live with this... except that I'll need a french one, which seems trickier.
jim2point0
Banned
I've owned the FTW3 (2 of them, sent both back) and the Asus Strix.
In the same system, the FTW3 was way, way louder when targeting a specific max temperature. The Asus really surprises me with how quiet it is while constantly running at 100%. Never gets over 70 degrees either.
ISee
Member
The key should still work after changing hardware or reinstalling windows, as long as you register and bind the key to your microsoft account. You can also download any language after installing windows 10, there are no language locks.
I would have thought it was a scam, seeing how even OEM editions on proper stores are 10 times those prices... Interesting to see people saying it's at least half legit.
At ~10, I guess I'll give it a try... Though I'll try to look for an official ISO, I'm not trusting the link I could get if it's not from an official website.
https://slickdeals.net/f/10472608-a...rocket-league-game-560-with-f-s?src=catpagev2
Windows 10 Home 64 Bit
Ryzen 5 1400 3.2 GHz (4C/8T, 3.4 GHz Turbo, 8MB Cache)
8GB DDR4 2400 MHz Ram
1TB 7200 RPM HDD
GTX 1050 2GB GDDR5 Graphics
USB Keyboard & Mouse Combo
802.11ac WiFi + Bluetooth 4.1 + Gigabit Ethernet
500W PSU
PORTS:
1x USB 3.1 Type-C Gen 1
4x USB 2.0
4x USB 3.1 Type A Gen 2 (Red color, 10 Gbps)
1x Display Port
1x HDMI
1x DVI Port
1x SDXC Card Reader
how good/ bad is this for 550?
Windows 10 Home 64 Bit
Ryzen 5 1400 3.2 GHz (4C/8T, 3.4 GHz Turbo, 8MB Cache)
8GB DDR4 2400 MHz Ram
1TB 7200 RPM HDD
GTX 1050 2GB GDDR5 Graphics
USB Keyboard & Mouse Combo
802.11ac WiFi + Bluetooth 4.1 + Gigabit Ethernet
500W PSU
PORTS:
1x USB 3.1 Type-C Gen 1
4x USB 2.0
4x USB 3.1 Type A Gen 2 (Red color, 10 Gbps)
1x Display Port
1x HDMI
1x DVI Port
1x SDXC Card Reader
how good/ bad is this for 550?
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Is the 1080ti still the default choice for 4k@60fps gaming?
ISee
Member
Microsoft got you covered
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
It is the only choice.
This PC is mostly good for MOBAs, emulation, office, browsing, and PS3 area games. If that's what you want go for it. If you want to play modern games you'll have to settle for 900-1080p at 30 fps and console equivalent settings. Price is as expected for a prebuild but you could get something better when building yourself.
1080p/60 on medium settings should be possible, if you oc the processor to 3.5 - 3.7 GHz (should be easy).
Like ISee said it's the closest you'll get, but it can't handle all games maxed/high. You'll have to wait until Volta for that.
RumblingRosco
Member
Well, Titan XP or maybe Titan X could be picked over the 1080 Ti if you've got no regard for price/performance.
Many thanks...
The more I read about it, the more it seems doubtful, though... Either the results of key generators, or business licenses that allows hundred of installations. I don't doubt it work (though with a tiny chance of the key being invalidated later), but I'm not sure I like the idea of going gray with this...
I really don't know what I should do. :/
ISee
Member
Sure. 5% more performance is something. But the 1080Ti should be able to reach higher clock speeds than the Titan Xp. In the end they will give you most probably very similar performance (while overclocked).
Many people here recommend playasia for windows 10 ($20), but I never bought something from them either
Is this normal for a new platform release or is this RMA material?
So I got a Ryzen Threadripper 1950x with an MSI x399 Carbon motherboard. I paired that up with some reused 8 DIMMs of DDR4 2666 Corsair Ram from my x99 build.
I installed Windows 10 and got a massive amount of BSODs. I removed 4 DIMMs and everything seems to be working. I think I saw in the QVL that only the set of 4 DIMMs had been tested.
I've never had issues with RAM. So I don't know how to proceed.
So I got a Ryzen Threadripper 1950x with an MSI x399 Carbon motherboard. I paired that up with some reused 8 DIMMs of DDR4 2666 Corsair Ram from my x99 build.
I installed Windows 10 and got a massive amount of BSODs. I removed 4 DIMMs and everything seems to be working. I think I saw in the QVL that only the set of 4 DIMMs had been tested.
I've never had issues with RAM. So I don't know how to proceed.
Should I be looking into an AMD Vega 56 over a 1070 SC?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FGq7LD
I'd quote my earlier post but I'm at work on my phone.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FGq7LD
I'd quote my earlier post but I'm at work on my phone.
RandomExpletive
Member
Still on the $25 Windows 10 N I got from Reddit, no problems in 2 years. Just upgraded to a Ryzen system, key migrates just fine (you do need it linked to a MS account)
Madnesslink5
Member
Hi Gaf,
I'm a noob to building gaming PC - only once had a gaming PC, and I bought it pre-built back in 07; Radeon HD4750 ftw!
Anyways, I'm ideally looking to run 1440p at high settings, 144hz if possible - I do not care for 4k or VR. My budget is around £1000-£1500, preferably more towards the lower end. I also do not care for the looks of the build (cheap case is fine) - as long as there is room for the components and it won't overheat I'm fine. I may look to do some emulation on the side, I understand this requires a decent CPU, but this would be more of a bonus than requirement.
So far I've been looking at the GTX 1080 from a graphics point of view, but I'm not sure if this leaves enough budget for a decent CPU, MBD etc. I'm willing to wait 1-2 months to try and get deals on specific parts, right now it is choosing the parts I am stuck on!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
I'm a noob to building gaming PC - only once had a gaming PC, and I bought it pre-built back in 07; Radeon HD4750 ftw!
Anyways, I'm ideally looking to run 1440p at high settings, 144hz if possible - I do not care for 4k or VR. My budget is around £1000-£1500, preferably more towards the lower end. I also do not care for the looks of the build (cheap case is fine) - as long as there is room for the components and it won't overheat I'm fine. I may look to do some emulation on the side, I understand this requires a decent CPU, but this would be more of a bonus than requirement.
So far I've been looking at the GTX 1080 from a graphics point of view, but I'm not sure if this leaves enough budget for a decent CPU, MBD etc. I'm willing to wait 1-2 months to try and get deals on specific parts, right now it is choosing the parts I am stuck on!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Hi Gaf,
I'm a noob to building gaming PC - only once had a gaming PC, and I bought it pre-built back in 07; Radeon HD4750 ftw!
Anyways, I'm ideally looking to run 1440p at high settings, 144hz if possible - I do not care for 4k or VR. My budget is around £1000-£1500, preferably more towards the lower end. I also do not care for the looks of the build (cheap case is fine) - as long as there is room for the components and it won't overheat I'm fine. I may look to do some emulation on the side, I understand this requires a decent CPU, but this would be more of a bonus than requirement.
So far I've been looking at the GTX 1080 from a graphics point of view, but I'm not sure if this leaves enough budget for a decent CPU, MBD etc. I'm willing to wait 1-2 months to try and get deals on specific parts, right now it is choosing the parts I am stuck on!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
The best bet for 144hz gaming is intel 7700k, here is a list that is well within your budget, it is up to you if you want to add secondary storage or upgrade to a 1080ti but that would end up being at the latter end of your budget:
fuuuuuck. So got a new motherboard today after first one was supposedly dead on arrival. Plug shit in and everything seems to be working fine. Only step left was to plug power into graphics card. So I do, then bam, nothing's working again. Take it back to the shop and apparently the graphics card was bad and fried both of those motherboards somehow. God this is such a fuckin' hassle.
Are you sure just the graphics card was/is just bad and didn't fry your board? My old computer "fried" so thought oh well just build a new computer. Was time for an upgrade anyway but I thought board fried. Ended up that just the video card was bad as it worked fine with on board video as well as another card.
LightofRohan
Member
Why's dis so stressful! I think I'm getting close though...
I'm going to go for 32gigs of ram. Should I do 4 of these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Or is there a better option? I always preferred less sticks that are more proficient. Any ideas? Thanks!
I'm going to go for 32gigs of ram. Should I do 4 of these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Or is there a better option? I always preferred less sticks that are more proficient. Any ideas? Thanks!
yeah I took it into the shop and no power was going through the motherboard anymore even without the graphics card. And I know it worked out of the box this time because it worked before I plugged the graphics card in.
Alright, I'm experiencing a really bizarre issue and I'm hoping someone here can help me.
First off, my specs:
So this issue has started happening over the last couple days. When I cold boot my computer, all my games run as expected--1080p Ultra/Epic settings, buttersmooth FPS across all my titles. But if I leave it on for a little while, performance just tanks in games like Forza Horizon 3 and Rainbow Six Siege. And I mean /tanks/. Micro-stuttering in FH3, huge frame drops in R6 Siege, rendering both games completely unplayable.
And I have no idea why.
I ran Afterburner while playing Siege, and GPU usage looked to top out at around 60% or so. CPU usage wasn't too high, either.
So what gives? Is my GPU throttling itself after a little while? What's going on?
First off, my specs:
So this issue has started happening over the last couple days. When I cold boot my computer, all my games run as expected--1080p Ultra/Epic settings, buttersmooth FPS across all my titles. But if I leave it on for a little while, performance just tanks in games like Forza Horizon 3 and Rainbow Six Siege. And I mean /tanks/. Micro-stuttering in FH3, huge frame drops in R6 Siege, rendering both games completely unplayable.
And I have no idea why.
I ran Afterburner while playing Siege, and GPU usage looked to top out at around 60% or so. CPU usage wasn't too high, either.
So what gives? Is my GPU throttling itself after a little while? What's going on?
Frankfurter
Member
Make sure to check temperatures for both GPU and CPU while gaming (afterburner, HWMonitor etc.). A couple of years back I had a defective HDD that caused this kind of issue. Basically my games would stutter like crazy, unless I put usage on the HDD (i.e. copying data from A to B).
Currently running a virus/malware scan right now to see if any issues pop up, but I'll make sure to do this afterwards just in case.
Thanks.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
Hi Gaf,
I'm a noob to building gaming PC - only once had a gaming PC, and I bought it pre-built back in 07; Radeon HD4750 ftw!
Anyways, I'm ideally looking to run 1440p at high settings, 144hz if possible - I do not care for 4k or VR. My budget is around £1000-£1500, preferably more towards the lower end. I also do not care for the looks of the build (cheap case is fine) - as long as there is room for the components and it won't overheat I'm fine. I may look to do some emulation on the side, I understand this requires a decent CPU, but this would be more of a bonus than requirement.
So far I've been looking at the GTX 1080 from a graphics point of view, but I'm not sure if this leaves enough budget for a decent CPU, MBD etc. I'm willing to wait 1-2 months to try and get deals on specific parts, right now it is choosing the parts I am stuck on!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Check out my rig:
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/h3w6Mp
I can run every game 1440p and 144hz on high-ultrasetting , no problem