lostsupper
Banned
If it's in your budget, bump the cooler up to the NH-U14S and replace the cheap PSU with a higher quality one.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
If it's in your budget, bump the cooler up to the NH-U14S and replace the cheap PSU with a higher quality one.
Relaxed Muscle
Member
I can make the effort on both things, I searched a bit and found good reviews about this one:
Seasonic M12II-620 EVO 620W 80 Plus Bronze Modular
Is this one ok?
Sectorseven
Member
What's the slowest Xeon I should be looking at for gaming if I see a cheap workstation for sale?
Does anyone have any experience overclocking this particular G.SKILL 2400 RAM kit? RAM is the only thing I've never OCd before and i'm not sure how high i should push the voltages/latency while i push up the speed.
Try to buy stuff in combos.
I was initially going to get a 7700k, Gskill RGB ram and a z270 Asus gaming board but on Newegg at the time there was a combo with the 7700k, the ram and an MSI Gaming M7 board for $60 less. I saved money and got a better board. And the 7700k came with a game bundle. So like yeah look out for deals.
I was initially going to get a 7700k, Gskill RGB ram and a z270 Asus gaming board but on Newegg at the time there was a combo with the 7700k, the ram and an MSI Gaming M7 board for $60 less. I saved money and got a better board. And the 7700k came with a game bundle. So like yeah look out for deals.
Bloodember
Member
No, they are not backward compatible.
masterkajo
Member
What are you planning on doing with this machine? An i7-7700k paired with a 1060 seems like a huge waste of a 7700k for just gaming. You would be better off going with a 7600k and putting in a few extra bucks and getting a 1070. If you are planning to do something that requires more cores/threads like productivity, then i recommend going with ryzen instead.
I don't think so. It's like a 10-20% increase in performance, depending on the game. If you are planning a full build anyway in the near future, why waste money on outdated hardware?
No, RAM is not backwards compatible, the slots are completely different.
Nope.
You will have to buy DDR4 RAM at a high price like I just did
Darnit. It really is very expensive
Glass Shark
Banned
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Bloodember
Member
I use malwarebytes, I haven't see it ask me to upgrade to premium.
Celcius
°Temp. member
I haven't owned that exact kit but I do have some experience with overclocking memory so I can give a few tips here. I'd be comfortable going up to 1.35v. In addition to increasing the speed and voltage, don't forget to try to relax the timings to CL16 or CL17 as well if needed (but only after trying voltage though since timings would affect performance). If you do try relaxing the timings, first try to only relax the first main timing and if that doesn't work then try relaxing the other 3 main timings as well.
For example: 15-15-15-35 -> 16-15-15-35 -> 16-18-18-38 -> 17-18-18-38
Memtest86 is a popular memory stability test and I like to use it myself for testing memory. I'd make sure it can run overnight with no errors before considering the memory stable.
If overclocking doesn't work out you may want to consider selling it and purchasing this instead: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231941&ignorebbr=1
If you can sell your ram for close to what you bought it for then it wouldn't cost you much to get that extra 800mhz (this kit is only $12 more than yours).
Lastly, if overclocking doesn't work out and you don't want to pay to upgrade, one last option would be to see if you can keep your ram at 2400mhz and seeing if a little extra voltage would help you lower the timings a little, say CL14 instead of CL15.
hououinkyouma00
Member
GAF, I'm looking at building a new budget build. I had to sell off my gaming pc awhile ago because of money issues, and I don't play enough demanding games to warrant spending a ton as my PS4 is still my main platform. I was looking at the following.
G4560
Gigabyte B250M
Arctic Alpine 11 Cooler
8GB DDR4 2400 (I would add another 8GB stick later on when I get more funds)
Corsair CXM 450W
Should I go with a 1060 3GB or a RX570 4GB, they are both at the $175 range. I was originally just going with a 1050ti as they are $125 but was wondering if it would be worth it to spend the extra $50 and what to spend it on between the two. Also I have a 1tb hdd, monitor, and kb/m already so besides that I would like to keep it under $450
If it helps the main games I would play are
LOL, GITS First Assault, Deathsmiles, Overwatch and NeoTokyo. I would like to be able to play some modern titles of course, I've looked up benchmarks and it seems I will be able to run new stuff decently. I don't care about Ultra/144hz at all. Those don't make a game better. Hell I have more hours in Deathsmiles on steam then anything else, and that game by all means looks like garbage.
G4560
Gigabyte B250M
Arctic Alpine 11 Cooler
8GB DDR4 2400 (I would add another 8GB stick later on when I get more funds)
Corsair CXM 450W
Should I go with a 1060 3GB or a RX570 4GB, they are both at the $175 range. I was originally just going with a 1050ti as they are $125 but was wondering if it would be worth it to spend the extra $50 and what to spend it on between the two. Also I have a 1tb hdd, monitor, and kb/m already so besides that I would like to keep it under $450
If it helps the main games I would play are
LOL, GITS First Assault, Deathsmiles, Overwatch and NeoTokyo. I would like to be able to play some modern titles of course, I've looked up benchmarks and it seems I will be able to run new stuff decently. I don't care about Ultra/144hz at all. Those don't make a game better. Hell I have more hours in Deathsmiles on steam then anything else, and that game by all means looks like garbage.
TatteredHat
Member
Darnit. It really is very expensive
Yep, DDR4 really got price hiked since last year.
Alright, typical NewComputerAndSuperParanoidOverRandomNoises post:
Built my system about a month ago, mostly all in working order.
Recently, though, I've noticed two sounds emanating from my case. One can only be described as something spinning/booting up/down (I'd assume my HDD). It's kinda like a bwweeEEEE / BWWEEeeee. It happens intermittently every like, 5 minutes or so. Sometimes less sometimes more.The next is a mechanical 'beep'. Not an actual tone (the kind that would play through a speaker), more like a high frequency mechanical thing.
Honestly this is a dumb post, and both sound like generic 'computer noises', but I'm wondering if Windows is stopping and starting my HDD randomly for no reason. Right now I'm only making use of the boot SSD (HDD is pretty much blank).
Built my system about a month ago, mostly all in working order.
Recently, though, I've noticed two sounds emanating from my case. One can only be described as something spinning/booting up/down (I'd assume my HDD). It's kinda like a bwweeEEEE / BWWEEeeee. It happens intermittently every like, 5 minutes or so. Sometimes less sometimes more.The next is a mechanical 'beep'. Not an actual tone (the kind that would play through a speaker), more like a high frequency mechanical thing.
Honestly this is a dumb post, and both sound like generic 'computer noises', but I'm wondering if Windows is stopping and starting my HDD randomly for no reason. Right now I'm only making use of the boot SSD (HDD is pretty much blank).
Relaxed Muscle
Member
Is for gaming, but my display is only 1080p/60Hz, so going 1070 seemed a bit overkill (and around 200 more for my budget), and a 1060 is a nice upgrade from what I have, I don't mind tunning down a bit the graphics to get 60fps, and for most games it should be enough to get 60fps. A spent a bit more on the CPU because I expect it to last, while the Vega and Volta are around the corner, by the time I upgrade my display I can already look for a GPU upgrade.
SolarMystic
Member
Anyone? Got one half answer but still need to know how/if I can get my free Windows 10 copy (because I had 8.1 when 10 came out) on my completely new build.
GeordieMark
Member
Look for the higher clocked hexacores. I was using a W3680 and it performs very well. I wouldn't go for anything below 3ghz clock speed for gaming.
Relaxed Muscle
Member
You need to link you MS account with the digital license:
http://www.windowscentral.com/how-re-activate-windows-10-after-hardware-change
Should work even after the hardware change. (I hope it does, because it was I'm in the same situation as you)
I was expecting this to be more robust. After 1 motherboard change it re-registered for me. That MB had issues, so I swapped to a different one with the same chipset and by the same manufacturer. It wouldn't re-register after that.
I had to call Microsoft and they took remote control of my PC. It was honestly a bit disconcerting and it took over 45 minutes for them to fix it. They wound up generating a new key for me.
sammyCYBORG
Member
Just got a PC build with this case: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xigmatek-ares-1702-midi-tower-black-ca-105-xg.html
However the drive spaces for my 3.5" and 2.5" HDDs are far too big and there is no way I can see of attaching them. Am I missing something?
It says in description: "Internal 3.5 bays / Internal 2.5 bay: 3 x 3.5 + 2 x 2.5 + 1 x 3.5/2.5 "
However the drive spaces for my 3.5" and 2.5" HDDs are far too big and there is no way I can see of attaching them. Am I missing something?
It says in description: "Internal 3.5 bays / Internal 2.5 bay: 3 x 3.5 + 2 x 2.5 + 1 x 3.5/2.5 "
Hi,
I have 2 GTX680, but only used one (SLI in my opinion to many problems)
I want to give it to my brother now he wants to play Players unknown Battleground with me.
I want your advice.
I am looking for everything excluding the GPU. CPU, ram etc has to be future proof.
Thank you.
I have 2 GTX680, but only used one (SLI in my opinion to many problems)
I want to give it to my brother now he wants to play Players unknown Battleground with me.
I want your advice.
I am looking for everything excluding the GPU. CPU, ram etc has to be future proof.
Thank you.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Well being honest, upgrading from the 680 in general would still be a worthwhile idea, though I suppose you can put it off.
What kind of budget are you working with? I presume from the context you're wanting to build a sort of entry level machine for your sibling?
I found tiny pictures, but you can somewhat see how it's attached: https://www.computeruniverse.net/en/products/90640504/xigmatek-ares-1702-midi-tower.asp
I wouldn't use any wireless mouse for FPS, for RPGs it should be fine.
Check the manual that came with your case, it should tell you how to install them.
FearMyWrench
Member
I'm in the same spot except even worse with fx-4100, would love to hear some thoughts. Trying to decide whether it's worth upgrading to 8350 as a cheap hold out for a year or something. I know the obvious response is upgrade to Intel but there's a big cost difference between upgrading to 8350 vs new mobo, ram, and intel cpu.
I would say it's not worth it. The 8350 isn't even 6000 series i3 level and the difference gets even bigger when you move to the 7000 series. You're better to hold out and wait for the money or just not upgrade at all.
http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i3-6320-vs-AMD-FX-8350
http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i3-7320-vs-AMD-FX-8350/3888vs1489
It's not just about Intel. Part of the reason a lot of people who are budget minded are waiting is because of the upcoming ryzen 3 lineup. Hopefully at that point we see more optimizations coming from developers which should help ryzen get on par with intel at gaming.
Those sites are definitely not what you want to be looking at when trying to benchmark CPUs for gaming. You wanna look at sites sites like anandtech and guru3d.
While having specific gaming benchmarks comparing the 2 would be nice the CPU's in question are so old and comparatively under powered they don't show up in modern tests. I was able to dig up one of the 6000 series but the 7000 doesn't show up anywhere in direct comparison to the FX line that I could find.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/10543/the-skylake-core-i3-51w-cpu-review-i3-6320-6300-6100-tested
Anyway this backs up what I was saying it's barely last gen i3 level and the difference between the 4300/6300 and the 8300 is margin of error stuff in most games.
I know, i wasn't disagreeing with your point. I made the same suggestion a couple of posts up. I was just saying those sites you linked in your first post not exactly the best for benchmarks.
Cool man
I typically do try to avoid the user benchmark site as obviously the amount of variance there for overclocking and the like can skew the results didn't realize cpuboss was an issue though.
Pagusas
Elden Member
Seems crazy to me to load your budget into the CPU instead of the GPU. Take the cpu down a notch and throw a 1070 in their minimum, you'll see far more bang for your buck.
SolarMystic
Member
Thanks! That will help me retain my license. How do I even activate it when I have nothing installed on my new build though? Do I need to use my windows 8.1 disc and install 8.1 first or?
Relaxed Muscle
Member
The intention is to keep the base of the PC for the longest time possible and only updating the GPU. Time will tell if it was a mistake or not. Is already done though.
Thanks for the advise anyway.
No, you have to download and isntall the W10 version you have now, after all your account is linked to a W10 license, not the W8.
MS lets you donwload the ISO, legally:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
Just put it on a USB or burn it on a DVD. The follow the steps on the previous link I shared, to re-activate your license with your MS account
SolarMystic
Member
The intention is to keep the base of the PC for the longest time possible and only updating the GPU. Time will tell if it was a mistake or not. Is already done though.
Thanks for the advise anyway.
No, you have to download and isntall the W10 version you have now, after all your account is linked to a W10 license, not the W8.
MS lets you donwload the ISO, legally:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
Just put it on a USB or burn it on a DVD. The follow the steps on the previous link I shared, to re-activate your license with your MS account
Thanks, I appreciate the help!
Now time to start buying parts for my build.
Just convinced a buddy building his first PC to upgrade from an i5 7600k to an R7 1700x for only 80$ more. He will be doing light gaming, computer programming and who knows what else. He's pairing it with a 980 TI.
Did he make the right choice? I figured the Ryzen is more future proof, and I mean, it's only 80$. His other option is to pay 95$ more than the i5 for an i7 7700k, but then you are going over the price of the Ryzen.
Did he make the right choice? I figured the Ryzen is more future proof, and I mean, it's only 80$. His other option is to pay 95$ more than the i5 for an i7 7700k, but then you are going over the price of the Ryzen.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Given the programming, I would imagine so. Where gaming is the primary use the i7 still remains king, but if the gaming needs only to be 'good enough' versus other applications, Ryzen does generally make the better amount of sense.
Servbot #42
Unconfirmed Member
There's a sale on a couple of cases i've had my eye on and i'm not sure which to buy, which one do you guys feel are the right choices for a future I5 7600k and GTX 1060 build?
I'm leaning towards the NZXT Phantom 410, from the reviews i have read it seems pretty solid. The NZXT S340 also seems very solid but it's more expensive and it doesn't have any space for dvd drive which is not that big of a deal now that i think about it.
NZXT Phantom 240 - White
NZXT Phantom 410
NZXT S340
Thermaltake Chaser A31
NZXT Phantom 530
I'm leaning towards the NZXT Phantom 410, from the reviews i have read it seems pretty solid. The NZXT S340 also seems very solid but it's more expensive and it doesn't have any space for dvd drive which is not that big of a deal now that i think about it.
NZXT Phantom 240 - White
NZXT Phantom 410
NZXT S340
Thermaltake Chaser A31
NZXT Phantom 530
super-famicom
Member
I have the S340 in white and it looks amazing.
Question: I turned my PC on after about 2 months of not using it (I moved, was pretty busy with things and didn't get a new desk until recently). Everything works fine, but sometimes the PC stops detecting my USB DAC/Amp and I lose sound. It comes back after a while, but it happens almost every night I use my PC. I've tried different ports and they all seem to act the same. Any suggestions on what to do? I'm looking to see if I need to update my motherboard bios or something.
Edit- Hmm, may be the USB cable itself. Gotta find another Micro USB cable to do more testing.
Overclock the crap outta that 6300. The extra 2 cores in the 8 series CPUs wont matter in many games.
Otherwise, someone is selling an 8320 on amazon, new, for $67
I would see if there is a deal on a 470
The S340 is only 50$ at Newegg (unless the promo ended) which seems like a steal for that case. The DVD is really no big deal for most. When is the last time you really needed one?
Yeah I'd be looking for cheaper RX470/480 still. We'll see in a bit if prices even out.
FYI: http://acerrecertified.com/scratch-dent/monitors/27/?search_query=&min_price=420&max_price=777
Scratch/Dent Refurb: 27" 1440p IPS(?) [Should just be a Costco model or something] 144Hz. Worth a gamble if you're feeling lucky.
Also Acer's announcement later today, but one of these models already sold out... and another 10 of this model sold in the past hour too. <15 left
FYI: http://acerrecertified.com/scratch-dent/monitors/27/?search_query=&min_price=420&max_price=777
Scratch/Dent Refurb: 27" 1440p IPS(?) [Should just be a Costco model or something] 144Hz. Worth a gamble if you're feeling lucky.
Also Acer's announcement later today, but one of these models already sold out... and another 10 of this model sold in the past hour too. <15 left
ISee
Member
This future proof thing... I don't understand why people are so sure about it. We have AMD 8 core CPUs now for forever and the industry still prefers less cores but stronger per core performance Intel CPU. Will this change? Maybe, but also maybe it won't. There is really no way to tell and I'm far more careful when recommending CPUs right now and present pros and cons and let people decide what's better in their opinion. I'd never say Intel or AMD will be better in the future, because I'm not sure myself. It was much more easy last year...
In gaming scenarios the 1700x is about as fast as the 7600k, but it is more expansive.
So if he isn't obsessed about performance and is only looking for light gaming and doesn't need the extra cores for programming I definitely would recommend him to use the extra money for something else and to ignore the 1700x and the 7700k. Maybe extra RAM would benefit him more for programming? Or an extra SSD?
But if he doesn't care about cost, sure let him go for it. It's not like the 1700x is bad choice.
Is the 980Ti from an older build? Just wondering because it's rather uncommon to buy a new one today.
GTX 1080 at ~AU$570 shipped. https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B01JULECKI/
Should I go for this or continue waiting for Vega?
The rest of my planned build: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/JmvFr7
Should I go for this or continue waiting for Vega?
The rest of my planned build: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/JmvFr7