I also have this case for my recently built computer. Anyone know if it is recommended to add more fans than the two already built in the case? I have a cpu heatsink/fan also, but my gpu (Aorus 1080ti Extreme) and cpu (i7 6700k) are hitting high temps. My gpu is hitting 80 C while my Cpu has gone as high as 90 C? And that is just after playing PREY for half an hour. I feel like I installed my Cpu heatsink correctly (Coolermaster hyper 212) and applied a pea-size amount of thermal paste. Anyone have any idea of what might help to get the temps down? thanks in advance for any suggestions
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
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I also have this case for my recently built computer. Anyone know if it is recommended to add more fans than the two already built in the case? I have a cpu heatsink/fan also, but my gpu (Aorus 1080ti Extreme) and cpu (i7 6700k) are hitting high temps. My gpu is hitting 80 C while my Cpu has gone as high as 90 C? And that is just after playing PREY for half an hour. I feel like I installed my Cpu heatsink correctly (Coolermaster hyper 212) and applied a pea-size amount of thermal paste. Anyone have any idea of what might help to get the temps down? thanks in advance for any suggestions
The Hyper 212 is a really low-end cooler (I know, I have one). With an i7, I would've gone a Noctua D15s or something, especially since recent Intel chips have been known to run hot. Is one of the case fans level with the CPU?
With the GPU, are you using any software (MSI afterburner for example) to implement a more aggressive fan curve? One 140mm fan blowing air onto the CPU and one onto the GPU should help a bit. (If the case supports bigger/faster fans, not a terrible idea unless noise is a worry)
I have not looked into fan curves at all. The case fan on the inside is on the far right side and it between the gpu and cpu. I will look into upgrading the heatsink and adding a extra fan(s). Thanks for the suggestions
Ryzen 1600 looks nice for a budget build mmmmmm
He should remount first and check his voltages as 90C is not normal.
Make sure you look up the video install instructions on mounting as that can make it a bit clearer. Obviously remove the plastic on the heatsink too
Low end? All the issues with cooling are mostly related to IHS lottery. From a Cyorig or 212 to a $80 Noctua is a few C difference in most cases.
He should remount first and check his voltages as 90C is not normal.
Remount the heatsink and use 2 grains of rice instead for amount of thermal paste.
Make sure you look up the video install instructions on mounting as that can make it a bit clearer. Obviously remove the plastic on the heatsink too
The difference between a cheapo cooler and a high-end one is usually a few degrees with newer chips? That sounds... I should read up more on this. If only because it could save me money in my next build.
Ryzen 1600 looks nice for a budget build mmmmmm
Low end? All the issues with cooling are mostly related to IHS lottery. From a Cyorig or 212 to a $80 Noctua is a few C difference in most cases.
He should remount first and check his voltages as 90C is not normal.
Remount the heatsink and use 2 grains of rice instead for amount of thermal paste.
Make sure you look up the video install instructions on mounting as that can make it a bit clearer. Obviously remove the plastic on the heatsink too
I will try remounting the heat sink tonight. What could explain the GPU getting so high? I feel like that's a little high according to benchmarks from different reviews. Thanks for your help!
From reports, it may just be a case of iffy quality control/bugs. I've been hearing a lot about people having issues with the Auros cards... https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/65w4go/aorus_1080ti_high_temps/
Although Define cases do sacrifice some airflow for decreased noise, which can be remedied somewhat with extra fans. (I also have a Define case)
JonnyDBrit
Member
Must be weird/nice to actually be able to recommend AMD CPUs now.
Hmm, Haz is right, the 212 shouldn't be hitting 90C with a 6700 on load.
The 212's are known to be difficult to install (as in easy to fuck up). Also, you do have it so that the 212's fan is sitting over the ram slots, sucking air into the heat sink fins and out the back of the case right?
EDIT: What motherboard do you have, and are you using it to auto overclock? The Gigabyte z270x pre-bios update would go crazy with vcore, causing overly high temps.
The 212's are known to be difficult to install (as in easy to fuck up). Also, you do have it so that the 212's fan is sitting over the ram slots, sucking air into the heat sink fins and out the back of the case right?
EDIT: What motherboard do you have, and are you using it to auto overclock? The Gigabyte z270x pre-bios update would go crazy with vcore, causing overly high temps.
Can you post the load voltages? You can use CPU-Z.
I've read up on monitors as well, so that will be updated too.
tl;dr is Intel cheaped out on the contact between chip and IHS (to save money and lower defect rate most likely) so you have larger core temp spreads and more variance in people getting 55C load or even 75C load. Or things like 55/56/60/70C across your cores. It's very lame. I've used a $20, $80, 2x140mm AIO and saw minimal benefits on my own system (6700K). I'm on the $20 cooler now (Cyorig, since I wanted to see how good the install/product was).
http://www.overclock.net/t/1322128/...sockets-775-115x-1366-2011-v3-am2-am3-fm1-fm2
IIRC The 10xx try to target thermals of <84C and will let the card warm up to keep noise down. It's normal, but you can run it cooler by changing the fan curve in Rivatuner/msi afterburner/evga precision.
It's good. It actually comes with a cooler and paired with a 470/570 + $100 OC mobo is ridiculous value (for 60FPS). I'll probably just drop the $400 build, or shove the alternative parts into the other Intel build.
I've read up on monitors as well, so that will be updated too.
That's why there's a 212 install vid (hidden) in the second post
tl;dr is Intel cheaped out on the contact between chip and IHS (to save money and lower defect rate most likely) so you have larger core temp spreads and more variance in people getting 55C load or even 75C load. Or things like 55/56/60/70C across your cores. It's very lame. I've used a $20, $80, 2x140mm AIO and saw minimal benefits on my own system (6700K). I'm on the $20 cooler now (Cyorig, since I wanted to see how good the install/product was).
http://www.overclock.net/t/1322128/...sockets-775-115x-1366-2011-v3-am2-am3-fm1-fm2
ASRock Z270 TAICHI LGA 1151. I haven't messed with any overclock settings. what's a normal amount of voltage, non-overclock?
EDIT: Also, I had my fan facing the wrong direction- don't know how I messed that up. I just moved it so the air is getting pumped out. I will have to runs some tests tonight and see if it helps performance. I will also look into that reddit thread about the Aorus quality control. Thanks again everybody for the help.
Burgess_101
Member
Despite​ me deciding to return the gigabyte board and pick up the MSI Mortar instead, I am really happy with the switch to Ryzen and my new build.
I am now idling at 35-40c, something I haven't had since my custom water-cooling loop. The stock AMD heatsink is really impressive. I only managed to overclock to 3.6ghz but I got the voltage down to 1.2v so it's not all bad, maybe with the new board overclocking will work better.
I think the worst thing about Ryzen is that it is still PGA.
Most importantly I set out to make my pc silent and it certainly is. Hallelujah.
I am now idling at 35-40c, something I haven't had since my custom water-cooling loop. The stock AMD heatsink is really impressive. I only managed to overclock to 3.6ghz but I got the voltage down to 1.2v so it's not all bad, maybe with the new board overclocking will work better.
I think the worst thing about Ryzen is that it is still PGA.
Most importantly I set out to make my pc silent and it certainly is. Hallelujah.
out if interest, why did you switch motherboards?
Burgess_101
Member
The biggest issue is the RAM not running at full speed. I would wait for a BIOS update but Gigabyte seems to not really care too much about the board, there's only been two updates. The MSI has had quite a few, the last a couple's of weeks ago.
The BIOS itself is really lacking a lot of features that the MSI one has, LLC for example.
The board itself isn't bad but as Ryzen is a new platform with some creases in need of ironing, I don't think Gigabyte will be focussing on the Gaming 3 like MSI will be on the Mortar.
The physical features of the Gigabyte board are actually way better, more USBs, gen 2 USB 3.1, 6 SATA ports. So it's a shame really.
Alright guys so I spoke too soon when I posted this. I still had the issue. But I have figured it out now. I think everything is good now. The problem was this little driver here
I can confirm 100% that it was the root of my problem. I don't know 100% how I fixed it but I uninstalled it and restarted my PC. It then came back again after restart and my PC worked fine after that.
Sup, PCgaf. I've been looking to save up for a gameing pc in the near future and was looking at this one on Amazon and was wondering if its any good or not: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBL8BER/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I know very little about computers. Just the barest basics and most of the rest is all but arcane to me.
I'm not looking for the beefiest rig in the world, just something to run games decently on. I've been eyeing the one above since it seems decent enough from just looking at the specs with my untrained eyes but I want a more informed opinion.
Thanks.
I know very little about computers. Just the barest basics and most of the rest is all but arcane to me.
I'm not looking for the beefiest rig in the world, just something to run games decently on. I've been eyeing the one above since it seems decent enough from just looking at the specs with my untrained eyes but I want a more informed opinion.
Thanks.
Sup, PCgaf. I've been looking to save up for a gameing pc in the near future and was looking at this one on Amazon and was wondering if its any good or not: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBL8BER/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I know very little about computers. Just the barest basics and most of the rest is all but arcane to me.
I'm not looking for the beefiest rig in the world, just something to run games decently on. I've been eyeing the one above since it seems decent enough from just looking at the specs with my untrained eyes but I want a more informed opinion.
Thanks.
Cyberpower/ibuyerpower/etc. is generally one of the companies i tell people to avoid because of the vast amount of CS horror stories. Especially for people who can't troubleshoot their own computer.
Do you have a microcenter near you? They have some pretty good and reliable prebuilts like the PowerSpec G221. It's 80$ more but much better specs then the cyberpower one. Generally speaking you don't want to go prebuilt unless you absolutely have to, but i can definitely understand why someone who is inexperienced would want to avoid that.
As far as further recommendations go, if you could answer the questions listed in the OP, it would be easier to help you. Gaming PCs can range from $500 to $5000, and those questions help people to know what exactly you are looking for.
Sup, PCgaf. I've been looking to save up for a gameing pc in the near future and was looking at this one on Amazon and was wondering if its any good or not: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBL8BER/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I know very little about computers. Just the barest basics and most of the rest is all but arcane to me.
I'm not looking for the beefiest rig in the world, just something to run games decently on. I've been eyeing the one above since it seems decent enough from just looking at the specs with my untrained eyes but I want a more informed opinion.
Thanks.
You can get something much better for the same price. I would say IMO its not a good PC. Nothing pre built ever is.
Here's a decent build. Lacks OS and peripherals like KB/M.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/86DJXH
Building it is easy. Super easy. Anyone can do it. Don't be afraid. It's as easy as Lego's.
I'm glad asked here about the PC then, I have little penitence for troubleshooting (within reason of course). I don't think I have a micro center near me since I've literally never heard of them in my life.
As for questions I'm not sure honestly what I wan't. Just to have games run nice and maybe to do some work on it (I'm an artist). I'm willing to spend probably like $800 maybe even a bit more, but not more than that honestly.
I'm not super confident in myself when it will come to building, not to mention I'm not sure if I have to free time to do so. There a local computer shop that might be willing to build it for me for a fee so I might go down that route if push comes to shove.
Edit: I finally noticed that list of questions, I'll fill that out tomorrow, since it's 2 in the bloody morning here.
Thanks for the help btw guys!
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
The OP Recommended Builds should have been updated as soon as Ryzen 5 came out.
The Ryzen 5 1600 is a glaring omission at this point and the Intel i5 7500 has no business being in the 'Best Value' spec sheet.
Hazaro?
The Ryzen 5 1600 is a glaring omission at this point and the Intel i5 7500 has no business being in the 'Best Value' spec sheet.
Hazaro?
Aww man, that broke my heart
Why cant there can be good and cheap(er) products Thanks
Regarding the TV: I was just wondering because monitors are, especially when big, more expensive and I never had problems gaming on my TV.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
In the UK, the R5 1600 is only £18 more than the 7500. You would need your head examining if you went for the Intel, especially seeing as how the R5 is on AM4 that will last a few generations.
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 6-cores/12 threads - £199.98
Intel Core i5-7500 4-cores/4 threads - £182.00
Intel Core i5-7600K 4-cores/4 threads - £213.00
What's sad is in the last few pages I've already seen an example of a novice builder putting a 7500 in his build list no doubt because of the outdated recommendations in the OP.
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 6-cores/12 threads - £199.98
Intel Core i5-7500 4-cores/4 threads - £182.00
Intel Core i5-7600K 4-cores/4 threads - £213.00
What's sad is in the last few pages I've already seen an example of a novice builder putting a 7500 in his build list no doubt because of the outdated recommendations in the OP.
Sounds reasonable. I put my upgrade off a few months in the hope that the memory thing gets sorted out. Looking at the MSI and ASrock boards atm.
Will a PC post to bios if the CPU is broken?
My troubles are still ongoing and I've hit a wall with what I can think off.
To summarise: PC won't boot, CPU/GPU/SYS fans spin up for half a sec before powering down.
What I've tried:
-New PSU: picked up a new 650W PSU today, the only difference this made is it makes the fans spin for about 2 seconds before restarting, still not getting to BIOS.
- Changed motherboard, same problem.
- Changed RAM on both boards
- CMOS on both boards
- With or without GPU
- Tried both AIO and air cooling for the CPU
To make it a bit more complicated, I used a friends 850W EVGA Supernova g2 last night which made my system boot to windows without any problems. My system doesn't need a 750W PSU let alone a 850W one, but could there be a case for a part pulling a surge of power which is then in turn tripping my PSU?
Specs:
4690k
GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance Ram
GTX 1080
EVGA Supernova 750G2, Corsair RM650x
I'll most likely take it to a PC shop tomorrow to have them look at it as I can't afford to keep buying parts I don't need/can't return.
My troubles are still ongoing and I've hit a wall with what I can think off.
To summarise: PC won't boot, CPU/GPU/SYS fans spin up for half a sec before powering down.
What I've tried:
-New PSU: picked up a new 650W PSU today, the only difference this made is it makes the fans spin for about 2 seconds before restarting, still not getting to BIOS.
- Changed motherboard, same problem.
- Changed RAM on both boards
- CMOS on both boards
- With or without GPU
- Tried both AIO and air cooling for the CPU
To make it a bit more complicated, I used a friends 850W EVGA Supernova g2 last night which made my system boot to windows without any problems. My system doesn't need a 750W PSU let alone a 850W one, but could there be a case for a part pulling a surge of power which is then in turn tripping my PSU?
Specs:
4690k
GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance Ram
GTX 1080
EVGA Supernova 750G2, Corsair RM650x
I'll most likely take it to a PC shop tomorrow to have them look at it as I can't afford to keep buying parts I don't need/can't return.
Vigilant Walrus
Member
Wanted to ask a philosophical question about Radiator placement. I've always been aircooling, but I've been interested in a AIO (for aesthetic reasons), and I've been trying to figure out the pros and cons.
The case I am looking at, only has a option for a radiator in the front, and I've heard some people say that radiators in the front pulling in air, increases your temps for your GPU (by blowing hot air through the system), but Kyle from Bitwin had a interesting video about this, saying that a front radiator can actually help if you have a graphics card that blows air into the system; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNAMxZgvves
He argues that the graphics card produces a lot more heat than the the radiator heat going through the system, and because of that he believes that a front placed radiator in a pull configuration is actually beneficial?
The case I am looking at, only has a option for a radiator in the front, and I've heard some people say that radiators in the front pulling in air, increases your temps for your GPU (by blowing hot air through the system), but Kyle from Bitwin had a interesting video about this, saying that a front radiator can actually help if you have a graphics card that blows air into the system; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNAMxZgvves
He argues that the graphics card produces a lot more heat than the the radiator heat going through the system, and because of that he believes that a front placed radiator in a pull configuration is actually beneficial?
cyen
Member
From my experience i always get better result having a front radiator doing intake, it will impact the GPU by 1 or 2c but if i place the radiator as outake my cpu temps will rise about 10c, unless you have a blower style GPU cooler. CPU will usually dissipate alot less heat than a GPU, specially if you are dealing with high end GPUs that will dump alot of hot air into the case.
Tenacious-D
Member
How the fuck do you clean an anti-glare LG monitor? I tried using some water and a microfibre cloth but it just makes more streaks. Tried several different cloths but the streaks never end.
I've wasted two hours trying to do this, I'm seriously going insane. Fuck these things, why is this so difficult.
I've wasted two hours trying to do this, I'm seriously going insane. Fuck these things, why is this so difficult.
power supply
Cooler Master V750, 750 Watt
Zwart, 4x PCIe 1 x 129,90*
SSD
Crucial MX300, 525 GB SSD
CT525MX300SSD1 1 x 164,90*
RAM
ADATA 16 GB DDR4-2400 Kit, Werkgeheugen
AX4U2400W8G16-DRZ, XPG Z1 1 x 137,90*
processor
Intel® Core i7-6700K, 4,0 GHz (4,2 GHz Turbo Boost) socket 1151 processor
FC-LGA4, "Skylake", Unlocked, WoF 1 x 379,-*
Watercooler
Cooler Master Seidon 120V Rev. 2, Waterkoeling
1 x 59,90*
GPU
GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Water cooling, Grafische kaart
DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort 1 x 829,-*
Tower
Cooler Master N300, Tower-behuizing
Zwart, USB 3.0 1 x 46,99*
Motherboard
ASRock B150M-HDS, socket 1151 moederbord
Gb-LAN, Sound, µATX 1 x 63,90*
Can these go along?
If you guys have any alternatives (that are cheaper but same quality) I would love to hear from you.
Also
1. Can I add 16 gb in the future with that motherboard?
2. Should I wait for AMD GPU's?
Thanks
Cooler Master V750, 750 Watt
Zwart, 4x PCIe 1 x 129,90*
SSD
Crucial MX300, 525 GB SSD
CT525MX300SSD1 1 x 164,90*
RAM
ADATA 16 GB DDR4-2400 Kit, Werkgeheugen
AX4U2400W8G16-DRZ, XPG Z1 1 x 137,90*
processor
Intel® Core i7-6700K, 4,0 GHz (4,2 GHz Turbo Boost) socket 1151 processor
FC-LGA4, "Skylake", Unlocked, WoF 1 x 379,-*
Watercooler
Cooler Master Seidon 120V Rev. 2, Waterkoeling
1 x 59,90*
GPU
GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Water cooling, Grafische kaart
DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort 1 x 829,-*
Tower
Cooler Master N300, Tower-behuizing
Zwart, USB 3.0 1 x 46,99*
Motherboard
ASRock B150M-HDS, socket 1151 moederbord
Gb-LAN, Sound, µATX 1 x 63,90*
Can these go along?
If you guys have any alternatives (that are cheaper but same quality) I would love to hear from you.
Also
1. Can I add 16 gb in the future with that motherboard?
2. Should I wait for AMD GPU's?
Thanks
All your parts are compatible.
I can't really recommend anything cheaper because it doesn't look like you're in the US of A and I don't really know the availability in your country.
The motherboard only has 2 RAM slots. Do you want a total of 16gb RAM? Then you have to get one 8GB RAM stick and add 8GB RAM later. If you want a total of 32GB RAM, you have to get one 16GB RAM stick and add another 16GB of RAM in the future.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core OEM/Tray Processor ($312.49 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Seidon 120V 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock - B150M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($56.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: ADATA - XPG Z1 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Xtreme Gaming Water cooling Video Card ($609.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master - N300 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Cooler Master - 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $1478.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-06 10:19 EDT-0400
Edit:
Check to see if this is available in your country
PSU - EVGA 600B 80+ Bronze, might be cheaper
Another way to save some money is by chosing a cheaper Case.
Okay here's my answers for the questions in the OP. Hopefully you folks can help me out.
Your Current Specs: If by my current specs you mean what I have for a computer now, I have a $350 Acer laptop I got a month ago. Nothing special.
But If you mean things I have in mind for the PC then I definitely need an optical drive and built in wifi. I won't be able to run a Ethernet cable to the computer due to the layout of my house so its going to be have to be wifi. But I would like to the option to be able to connect it directly with an Ethernet cable in the future.
Budget: I'm willing to spend around like $800 or more. Possibly slightly over 1k if I buy the parts slowly over time.
Main Use: 5, I'm going to be using this for gaming and doing digital art in the furture. As well as watching videos and browsing. Possibly some video editing too.
Monitor Resolution: 1080 would be fine, 1440 would be very nice but I'm not sure I wanna break the bank on a monitor. I don't really care about 4k at the moment. Also, yeah I'm looking for a new monitor. Maybe to even have a dual monitor setup possibly. I'm not sure.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: As a bench mark, I'd like to be able to run something like The Witcher 3 on as good a settings as possible while aiming for 60 fps (I wan't to aim for 60 fps for pretty much everything.) I'll also want to make sure I can run things like Photoshop, OBS, Skype/Discord and some kind of video editing software if humanly possible. Also, I do plan that in some time in the future I will probably acquire a Cintiq for my art so it being able play nice with the computer would be ideal.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I don't have any parts to reuse so I guess not.
When will you build?: I don't have a deadline, since its going to take a awhile to amass the parts or save for a pre-built if necessary. So probably the better part of a year from now possibly. I'm not sure I will also build this myself. There's a little mom and pop computer shop in town that I frequent that might be willing to build the PC for a fee. Also, I am deathly afraid of doing it myself. I skimmed through one of the tutorial videos in the OP and I've realized PC building is for people smarter than I.
Will you be overclocking?: If I knew what the hell overclocking was I might If there is a tangible benefit to doing so.
Your Current Specs: If by my current specs you mean what I have for a computer now, I have a $350 Acer laptop I got a month ago. Nothing special.
But If you mean things I have in mind for the PC then I definitely need an optical drive and built in wifi. I won't be able to run a Ethernet cable to the computer due to the layout of my house so its going to be have to be wifi. But I would like to the option to be able to connect it directly with an Ethernet cable in the future.
Budget: I'm willing to spend around like $800 or more. Possibly slightly over 1k if I buy the parts slowly over time.
Main Use: 5, I'm going to be using this for gaming and doing digital art in the furture. As well as watching videos and browsing. Possibly some video editing too.
Monitor Resolution: 1080 would be fine, 1440 would be very nice but I'm not sure I wanna break the bank on a monitor. I don't really care about 4k at the moment. Also, yeah I'm looking for a new monitor. Maybe to even have a dual monitor setup possibly. I'm not sure.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: As a bench mark, I'd like to be able to run something like The Witcher 3 on as good a settings as possible while aiming for 60 fps (I wan't to aim for 60 fps for pretty much everything.) I'll also want to make sure I can run things like Photoshop, OBS, Skype/Discord and some kind of video editing software if humanly possible. Also, I do plan that in some time in the future I will probably acquire a Cintiq for my art so it being able play nice with the computer would be ideal.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I don't have any parts to reuse so I guess not.
When will you build?: I don't have a deadline, since its going to take a awhile to amass the parts or save for a pre-built if necessary. So probably the better part of a year from now possibly. I'm not sure I will also build this myself. There's a little mom and pop computer shop in town that I frequent that might be willing to build the PC for a fee. Also, I am deathly afraid of doing it myself. I skimmed through one of the tutorial videos in the OP and I've realized PC building is for people smarter than I.
Will you be overclocking?: If I knew what the hell overclocking was I might If there is a tangible benefit to doing so.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZCkgxY
This is something I quickly threw together for you. Based on what you want you definitely want to go Ryzen. This is at the upper limit of your budget. I'm sure some other helpful gaffers can find some cuts and streamline this build. I will be honest you could save on the motherboard since I went with one that included wi-fi, you could save money and either get a powerline adapter to run ethernet, or get a pci wifi card and a cheaper mobo. With the potential savings, you could spend the extra hundred and get a Ryzen 7 1700
Thanks, a ton! I gave it a look over and took a look at the Ryzen 7 1700 and saw it was more and decided to throw it on the list along with a Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler. I decided it throw it on anyway If I'm going to get more bang for my buck.
Here's the slightly edited list. If your curious: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Wkn8kT
should be good. can't remember if the 1700 comes with it's own fan, so you may not need the hyper 212. But you should be good to go. The monitor I included is pretty standard. 1080P 60hz
Jafko's PC looks good. I just changed the PSU and case to save a little money and added a 120gb SSD instead. You may need to add more storage as needed (add an HDD if needed). You said you needed wifi but it looks like the Motherboard has built in wifi.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($218.55 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 KILLER SLI/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard ($138.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($103.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk - SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte - Radeon RX 580 8GB Gaming 8G Video Card ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Thermaltake - Versa N21 ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($36.88 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.79 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($86.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus - VX238H 23.0" 1920x1080 Monitor ($138.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1062.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-06 12:35 EDT-0400
Overclocking means that you are making the CPU run faster than stock ghz's. You can overclock CPU's that end with "k" (i5 4690 vs i5 4690k).
Also building is super easy. If you don't want to pay someone else to do it PM me and I'll walk you through. It's easy peasy.
Awesome! I really appreciate, the help. It's threads like this that remind me why I joined GAF in the first place!
JonnyDBrit
Member
On the case, NCIX have a sale on the Bitfenix Nova right now:
www.ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=116455&promoid=1498
Comes in either black or white, and comes with an optical drive slot. Would save you another 20-30 dollars.
Chris Metal
Member
Hey guys, anyone here have the Gigabyte GA xZ170-UD5 TH? I'm trying to find some compatible RAM which is low height. 16GB DDR4 2x8 stick ideally and black, hate this gamer colourful stuff and was gonna get the corsair vengeance lpx 3200 16gb set but I'm not sure it's fully compatible and according to the corsair site none of their memory modules are compatible with my board, which conflicts with the memory doc on Gigabyte site.
Not sure on CAS and speed as looking at the options on the the Gigabyte site doesn't offer much in terms of 16 gb. Trident z and ripjaws v seems to be the only ones at 3200.
Not sure on CAS and speed as looking at the options on the the Gigabyte site doesn't offer much in terms of 16 gb. Trident z and ripjaws v seems to be the only ones at 3200.
Okay, I took a minuet and combined Jafku's and Oraleeway's Builds to get this:https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vMNgxY
Its definitely more expensive but I want to get more bang for my buck. Especially if the processor is that much better for what I need it for.
Tell me what you guys think.
Its definitely more expensive but I want to get more bang for my buck. Especially if the processor is that much better for what I need it for.
Tell me what you guys think.
ShadowKingpin
Member
You could save money and get a B350 Mobo over the X370, as you aren't buying two GPU's for Crossfire.
EDIT: You could also go to the 1700 and easily overclock it to 1800X performance with that third party cooler.
JonnyDBrit
Member
It's the onboard wi-fi that's key here. Thiugh again, option of getting a cheaper board and a Wi-Fi card.
Only two things come to mind. Definitely change the case to what Jonny said as it is cheaper:
And the hyper Evo 212 is a bit hard to install. If you don't plan on overclocking the CPU, you don't really need a CPU cooler. You can just use the stock cooler that comes with the CPU (however I don't know if it comes with a CPU cooler, usually does but double check). Or you could get something that should do a better job than stock.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - RYZEN 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($357.80 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC - Alpine 64 GT 25.6 CFM CPU Cooler ($8.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 KILLER SLI/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard ($138.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($103.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk - SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.45 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - Radeon RX 580 8GB Gaming 8G Video Card ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: BitFenix - Nova ATX Mid Tower Case ($24.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA - 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($36.88 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.79 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($86.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus - VX238H 23.0" 1920x1080 Monitor ($138.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1237.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-06 13:19 EDT-0400
Toe-Knee
Member
For anyone after a Nvme ssd ccl are currently selling the Samsung polaris 961 256gb for £115
Got one the other day and it's running nicely. Comes in a plain box.
https://www.cclonline.com/product/2...M-2-2280-PCIe-NVMe-Solid-State-Drive/SSD0598/
Got one the other day and it's running nicely. Comes in a plain box.
https://www.cclonline.com/product/2...M-2-2280-PCIe-NVMe-Solid-State-Drive/SSD0598/
ShadowKingpin
Member
Ahhhhh ok. My bad. I may have a look at that board myself.
Bloodember
Member
Go for that motherboard and the 1700 cpu. Ditch the 212 cooler the one that comes with it is better and alot easier to install.
ShadowKingpin
Member
Yeah, the cooler that comes with it is good enough. Usually up to 3.8 is the safest bet that I have seen in reviews, which is fantastic on a baseline cooler.
Okay, this looks perfect! I guess I'll start saving up soon! Thanks again for all your help everybody, you guys are the best!
Chris Metal
Member
I would jump on it, but 256 is a little small for my needs. 500GB min. thanks anyway. Looking at the WD black NVME right now. The 5 year warranty is reassuring.
Okay, I resign and settle for the 1050 ti. What do you guys think is the best 1050 ti under 180ish? I'm thinking about the Asus Strix one because the tests I read had it leading, and because it has friggingLEDs, but I would also like a cheaper one, like the KFA2, but I've never heard of that brand before. Should I take one with 2 fans? I'd like to have a system thats not overly loud.