KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Deaf Spacker said:
Crap, there might be something wrong with my TV then :(
Click to expand...

I wouldnt say that.
If you've got the notification before then I'd say its working, just a case of twiddling about.

Have you tried putting it in Movie mode and then loading the Amazon up after and putting the show on?
That seems to be what triggered it for me.
 
Quick Mustard said:
I wouldnt say that.
If you've got the notification before then I'd say its working, just a case of twiddling about.

Have you tried putting it in Movie mode and then loading the Amazon up after and putting the show on?
That seems to be what triggered it for me.
Click to expand...

I've always had it on Movie mode since day one, everywhere I've read online says that whilst in Movie mode, if I watch content with HDR then the TV should automatically adjust, this is not happening for whatever reason.

I'm going to reset the picture settings, see if that helps.

Edit: No it didn't help.
 
shakey said:
Okay, I see a lot of confusion on here... Let me see if I can help some of yall, with some settings that those of us on AVS Forums have sort of decided seem to be good all around general default settings for HDR Gaming. I'll explain the reasoning behind some of the settings, as to make this as clear as possible....

FIRST - If you have messed with your White Balance or Color Sliders and you didn't have a professional actually do it, reset to default. You can not use other's settings for this, and any changes you've done are probably for the worst. You can only get correct values for these via software and a professional that knows what they are doing so they can measure your ambient light and whats coming off of the TV.

Now, On to the settings ( I have the KS9500, basically the newer model of the KS8000, same settings transfer over ) And this is for Game Mode, Not Movie Mode, So yes, there is a number to Sharpness for a reason that is still beyond my total comprehension. But 0 Sharpness blurs the textures out, and too much causes tracer lines and other distortion effects. There is a happy medium, so look for it between what I listed.

Game Mode: SDR / *HDR settings listed ( You have to manually change the HDR settings until Sammy gives us another save slot under the Game Mode Picture Setting )

Backlight 13 *HDR 20

Brightness 45

Contrast 95 *HDR 100

Sharpness 17 ( anywhere from 10 to 20 is good, but don't go over 20 or you will start to get artifacts and other image distortion )

Color 50

Tint 50/50

Smart LED High

HDMI Black Level Normal ( Put your PS4 RBG Range to Full so you won't crush blacks ) (Auto will not work, and causes signals to get mixed up and blacks to get crushed, must manually set to what I've posted to get accurate blacks.)

Dynamic Contrast Off *HDR Medium

Color Tone Warm 2 ( you can set this to another option if you prefer. You won't be getting more accurate colors though, but this is a preference type of thing as well )

Again, Don't touch White Balance

Gamma 0

Color Space Auto ( Used to have to be Native for HDR to work, but Sammy patched it for Auto to work, so it's best to do Auto for now )


Also, make sure you have your PS4 set to YUV420 so that you can get proper HDR 10bit.
Click to expand...

Hi mate. I've got the KS9500 too. What are your settings for movie mode? Sdr and hdr.
 
digitalrelic said:
Since I got this set, I was always a major supporter of the "Dynamic Contrast = Medium" setting, but last night I changed my mind. For good.

Turning on Dynamic Contrast does indeed make the image way brighter, but that's at the expense of on-screen contrast in the image. It's essentially substantially lifting up all the shadows to be much brighter, and then it blows out the sky and other really bright areas. What you end up with is a much brighter image with much less depth.

I could still see using Dynamic Contrast in a bright room during the day, as HDR mode, even with a backlight of 20, is probably too dim in that environment.

But at night or in a light-controlled environment? Dynamic Contrast needs to be off. Looks way better.
Click to expand...

I don't know. For me Dynamic Contrast makes the image look more 3d like. In any case, it's about what looks good to you. Too many people are telling other people how to set their TV sets. I've seen people say set your backlight to 2 and I just roll my eyes.
 
I just realized I didn't notice any edge bleeding until right after I updated to 1150. Could it be a firmware issue? It's like the light along the bottom right edge is clouded white, but it fades to perfect black. It's really aggravating during dark scenes. it's almost like there's a white boarder along the bottom of the picture. It's happening on all of my HDMI inputs. I didn't check my TV apps to see if it's there too, but it probably is.
 
Is there a cumulative list of which shows are 4K & HDR enabled through netflix, amazon.. and other services as well?

julrik said:
That's right. Whether it will be fixed or not remains to be seen.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much for the confirmation, quite annoying to have to keep switching. I can;t imagine that this wouldn't be address in the future.
 
family_guy said:
I don't know. For me Dynamic Contrast makes the image look more 3d like. In any case, it's about what looks good to you. Too many people are telling other people how to set their TV sets. I've seen people say set your backlight to 2 and I just roll my eyes.
Click to expand...

I mean, I get why Dynamic Contrast is favored by so many. The image is SO much brighter, that initially it feels like there's a lot more pop. The colors are also over saturated a bit when Dynamic Contrast is on. So it makes everything very vivid.

With that said, I'm pretty convinced that it's not how filmmakers intended their material to be viewed. With Dynamic Contrast on, detail and contrast is actually lost when there's a lot of bright and dark objects on the same screen. What you end up with is brightness in an area of the picture where it's supposed to be dark, and then retina-burning blown out brightness where it's supposed to be bright. I saw this happening over and over again in several pieces of HDR demo material. The LG/Samsung/Sony HDR demo downloads are what really opened my eyes to this.

It's easy to not pick up on this, as Dynamic Contrast seems to leave the darkest black stuff alone. So in that 0%-5% range, things looks great. It's that 5%-25% range that suffers the most with Dynamic Contrast on. Because again, it ends up outputting that range at a much higher brightness than intended. If that makes any sense.
 
digitalrelic said:
I mean, I get why Dynamic Contrast is favored by so many. The image is SO much brighter, that initially it feels like there's a lot more pop. The colors are also over saturated a bit when Dynamic Contrast is on. So it makes everything very vivid.

With that said, I'm pretty convinced that it's not how filmmakers intended their material to be viewed. With Dynamic Contrast on, detail and contrast is actually lost when there's a lot of bright and dark objects on the same screen. What you end up with is brightness in an area of the picture where it's supposed to be dark, and then retina-burning blown out brightness where it's supposed to be bright. I saw this happening over and over again in several pieces of HDR demo material. The LG/Samsung/Sony HDR demo downloads are what really opened my eyes to this.

It's easy to not pick up on this, as Dynamic Contrast seems to leave the darkest black stuff alone. So in that 0%-5% range, things looks great. It's that 5%-25% range that suffers the most with Dynamic Contrast on. Because again, it ends up outputting that range at a much higher brightness than intended. If that makes any sense.
Click to expand...


Good post.
 
Impulsor said:
I changed the HDMI cable and it stopped happening.
Click to expand...

I completely turned off the ps4 pro and replugged the hdmi. Also checked to see of something came lose. Have been playing for five hours non stop and no vlack screens yet so I guess its fixed.

Was super worried because my old ps3 did this and the video card was cleary dying.
 
Veitsev said:
Its down to personal preference. Setting it to 3 for each setting gives smoother motion with a minimal level of soap opera effect but the soap opera effect is still there. Some people like the effect some people hate it. I personally can't stand it.

Also one more thing to add to your post. Digital Clean View is a good setting for lower res content. For TV content 720p or lower or streaming content with a lot of noise it does a good job of cleaning up the picture. There is a loss of detail as a result but it is minimal. You don't want this on for high quality content or content where grain is supposed to be heavy as it will eliminate that grain and reduce detail.
Click to expand...

I realky appreciate this response. I will tinker with those settings a little bit when im watching some stuff.

Also, heavily agree with those saying DC = off

Been through every DC setting and it kills your detail. If youset it to my settings in op and you should have an amzing image. In the end do what you prefer tho etc
 
Been following this thread alot. I did use DC low for HDR content, than off for SDR, but after seeing so many of you guys go back and forth I left it off for HDR as well. Details get lost when you turn it on, so theres that. I am hoping Samsung does give us HDR Game settings to be saved/switched when jumping back and forth. They did just recently give HDR for Game mode for firmware 1142, so I hope its a work in progress.

Did anyone figure out what 1150 did? Or is it a quality update
 
I started playing uncharted 4 on this tv from start. On chapter 2 now.

It's looked nothing short of amazing.

The hdr really is next gen stuff. I never realized how important lighting and details to lighting is to the visual experience.

If you just play the uc4 prologue on the boat and see the lightning flashes and flares etc it juts looks incredible.

If xbox S does hdr games anything like this i will need to upgrade.
Very happy that I chose the tv with the higher hdr capabilites
 
Haines said:
If you just play the uc4 prologue on the boat and see the lightning flashes and flares etc it juts looks incredible.
Click to expand...

Yeh in that one section I move the camera / boat just to see all of the flares (if they are that). I've played it alot recently while testing new HDR settings. They look good with any setting though. :)
 
infinityBCRT said:
Here, made a video showing the artifacts when you dial up the sharpness, even to 17. Was flipping back and forth between 0 and 17 during the video and the artifacting is clear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhI5A2uf2Pw
Click to expand...

Interesting... I'll give this a look tonight. I based this off of an old test I did on a PS3 years ago with Skyrim, where the sharpness brought out certain details in textures that were completely missing with a 0 setting.

After reading a bit of post here and there about DC, I've gone to having it off on Game HDR as well.
 
TLZ said:
Hi mate. I've got the KS9500 too. What are your settings for movie mode? Sdr and hdr.
Click to expand...

Movie Mode:

Backlight 5-9, depending on ambient light in room

Brightness 45

Contrast 95

Sharpness 0

Color 50

Tint 50/50

Digital Clean View OFF

Auto Motion Plus ( whatever you like really )

Smart LED LOW

Film Mode ( Auto 1 for cable, otherwise OFF )

HDMI UHD Color should always be on for all your sources. It won't ever hurt anything,
but gives it the option to do 10bit color when it is present. So just enable it for all
sources.

Dynamic Contrast OFF

Color Tone Warm 2

Don't mess with White Balance unless you have a professional to calibrate it.

Gamma 0

Color Space Auto
 
Damn... I just realized I don't have any HDMI2.0 cables at home haha, I won;t be able to experience the full beauty.

Does the KS8000 come with an hdmi 2.0 cable included?
 
SilverArrow20XX said:
It does not.
Click to expand...

infinityBCRT said:
Xbox One S and PS4 Pro both come with HDMI 2.0 cables.
Click to expand...

Right! I haven't even hooked up my PS4 pro yet... I guess I'll use it for that.

My cable box (or any Cable or TV service for that matter) doesn't support HDR or even 4k....yet.... So I guess it won't matter if I use an older HDMI cable for that output.

Also for watching Netflix & Amazon Prime in 4K/HDR I should be using the built in TV Samsung App, right? I suppose since it's built into the TV the signal doesn't actually travel over an HDMI signal so I should be ok with a regular HDMI cable for a few days to watch this content?

God... this stuff gets so confusing haha.

dustman1565 said:
No, it does not. But this beauty will do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8SSD0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Click to expand...

Nice! Thanks for the link, just purchased 2 of these :D
 
Damn ya'll. Got my KS8000 set up and its a perfect panel. Put on neon demon from amazon ultra hd, premo stuff mann.

Using Tizen TV 2.0 OS and its pretty smooth.

Arc audio yamaha receiver setup was a breeze.

Now my only regret is that I never experienced OLED, but the blacks on the KS8000 torch that of my just sold Samsung PNF8500 Plasma. The blacks are really black. Will test again at night.
 
Yeah I'm very impressed with the blacks.

I told my wife I hope to get an oled at a decent price next year with Scorpio and she threatened divorce.

So I'll just keep quiet until the moment I'm pulling the trigger on a deal haha
 
Dusktildawn48 said:
Bought an optical to 3.5mm cable. I use a bose Soundwave thing that doesn't have optical but has a 3.5 jack. That should work right?
Click to expand...

Hopefully. My speakers also only have a 3.5 jack. Bought a converter/optical cable combo that should arrive Sunday. I have small, simple stereo + woofer speakers, but they blow the TV speakers out of the water still. It sounds so muffled.
 
Haines said:
Yeah I'm very impressed with the blacks.

I told my wife I hope to get an oled at a decent price next year with Scorpio and she threatened divorce.

So I'll just keep quiet until the moment I'm pulling the trigger on a deal haha
Click to expand...

I fell u mann. Imma wait until the bendable OLED tech. When the pricing comes down for it, Ill buy it. This Samsung should due for 2-3 years.
 
sebco said:
Anyone using a Samsung soundbar via TV SoundConnect with this set? If so how do you like it?
Click to expand...

I am. It works flawlessly. Sounds better than built in speakers, and the auto power with TV stuff is really handy.

Anyone else notice that you can use the TV remote to control the PS4 dashboard? Switch me to sdr if old.
 
I have a question. Currently I don't have a 4K set and the KS8000 would be the one I could get seeing as the KS9000 (the one I really want is outta my price range) OLED is awesome but input lag is more important to me for gaming.

My question is the following, should I get a KS8000 now or seeing as CES is only a short couple months away should I wait for the 2017 models?

Btw I have a PS4 Pro.
 
Goose_Se7en said:
I have a question. Currently I don't have a 4K set and the KS8000 would be the one I could get seeing as the KS9000 (the one I really want is outta my price range) OLED is awesome but input lag is more important to me for gaming.

My question is the following, should I get a KS8000 now or seeing as CES is only a short couple months away should I wait for the 2017 models?

Btw I have a PS4 Pro.
Click to expand...


http://www.rtings.com/tv/black-friday-deals

scroll down. great response.
 
shakey said:
Okay, I see a lot of confusion on here... Let me see if I can help some of yall, with some settings that those of us on AVS Forums have sort of decided seem to be good all around general default settings for HDR Gaming. I'll explain the reasoning behind some of the settings, as to make this as clear as possible....

FIRST - If you have messed with your White Balance or Color Sliders and you didn't have a professional actually do it, reset to default. You can not use other's settings for this, and any changes you've done are probably for the worst. You can only get correct values for these via software and a professional that knows what they are doing so they can measure your ambient light and whats coming off of the TV.

Now, On to the settings ( I have the KS9500, basically the newer model of the KS8000, same settings transfer over ) And this is for Game Mode, Not Movie Mode, So yes, there is a number to Sharpness for a reason that is still beyond my total comprehension. But 0 Sharpness blurs the textures out, and too much causes tracer lines and other distortion effects. There is a happy medium, so look for it between what I listed.

Game Mode: SDR / *HDR settings listed ( You have to manually change the HDR settings until Sammy gives us another save slot under the Game Mode Picture Setting )

Backlight 13 *HDR 20

Brightness 45

Contrast 95 *HDR 100

Sharpness 17 ( anywhere from 10 to 20 is good, but don't go over 20 or you will start to get artifacts and other image distortion )

Color 50

Tint 50/50

Smart LED High

HDMI Black Level Normal ( Put your PS4 RBG Range to Full so you won't crush blacks ) (Auto will not work, and causes signals to get mixed up and blacks to get crushed, must manually set to what I've posted to get accurate blacks.)

Dynamic Contrast Off *HDR Medium

Color Tone Warm 2 ( you can set this to another option if you prefer. You won't be getting more accurate colors though, but this is a preference type of thing as well )

Again, Don't touch White Balance

Gamma 0

Color Space Auto ( Used to have to be Native for HDR to work, but Sammy patched it for Auto to work, so it's best to do Auto for now )


Also, make sure you have your PS4 set to YUV420 so that you can get proper HDR 10bit.
Click to expand...

Why is HDMI black level grayed out for me?
 
Where do you guys put the One Connect hub? I recently bought a new modern media console and it's all open which has been a nightmare for cable management. Has anyone attached it to the back of the TV? Thinking of using double sided tape.
 
Art Vandilay said:
I hope so. Even if it required a new port for HDMI 2.1, we could possibly just buy a new OneConnect box.

Edit: sorry for the back to back posts
Click to expand...


Doesn't this TV have 2.2? My PS4 shows 2.2 on my X800D, I would assume a more expensive set would be the same lol


Or am I thinking of HDCP 2.2?
 
Guys this is a bit off topic but seeing as there are so many KS 8000 owners here, here are 2 pics from my KS 8500 (curved model).

There's some light bleed when there is white image on screen. Cant see it in this pic but in 21:9 movies when black bars appear on top and bottom, the bottom left side shows quite a bit of bleed. It's not so noticeable when the lights are lit or during daytime at all, but very annoying when I watch movies in darkness.

Jd6FD4L.jpg


And one damn stuck green pixel.

N8wqFEX.jpg


Do these seem like excessive problems? Samsung service/ warranty here is pretty damn slow so if the backlight bleed is a common problem, I can live with it and the stuck pixel (which is usually not so noticeable).
 
Xbox one will allow me to use 12 bit color with my samsung ks8000. Should i set it to 12 bit? Also is the original hdmi cable that comes with the og xbox one 2.0 or 1.4?
 
shakey said:
Movie Mode:

Backlight 5-9, depending on ambient light in room

Brightness 45

Contrast 95

Sharpness 0

Color 50

Tint 50/50

Digital Clean View OFF

Auto Motion Plus ( whatever you like really )

Smart LED LOW

Film Mode ( Auto 1 for cable, otherwise OFF )

HDMI UHD Color should always be on for all your sources. It won't ever hurt anything,
but gives it the option to do 10bit color when it is present. So just enable it for all
sources.

Dynamic Contrast OFF

Color Tone Warm 2

Don't mess with White Balance unless you have a professional to calibrate it.

Gamma 0

Color Space Auto
Click to expand...

Thank you. Just like mine then. Only difference I upped my backlight to 13 after turning off DC and turning down gamma to 0. Had it on 8 before with DC medium and gamma 2 because everything was so dim. That's for Netflix and plex streaming. For normal TV though it's on 7.
 
bought the 55inch old c6p on sale ($1797) from amazon authorized dealer just now. I think there r some left for the b6p as well. Going to decide on which of the two (KS8000) to keep.
 
taimoorh said:
Guys this is a bit off topic but seeing as there are so many KS 8000 owners here, here are 2 pics from my KS 8500 (curved model).

There's some light bleed when there is white image on screen. Cant see it in this pic but in 21:9 movies when black bars appear on top and bottom, the bottom left side shows quite a bit of bleed. It's not so noticeable when the lights are lit or during daytime at all, but very annoying when I watch movies in darkness.

Jd6FD4L.jpg


And one damn stuck green pixel.

N8wqFEX.jpg


Do these seem like excessive problems? Samsung service/ warranty here is pretty damn slow so if the backlight bleed is a common problem, I can live with it and the stuck pixel (which is usually not so noticeable).
Click to expand...

I had the same issue with my 65"8500 and just handed back my tv to Costco, am getting a new on in two weeks. Hope that one is better. According to the rtings review it should be near perfect for black uniformity, so I don't think its too much to ask for the clouding to be at a minimum.

And that green pixel would be enough to drive me up the wall. Especially as I paid over 2k for the set two months ago.
 
taimoorh said:
Guys this is a bit off topic but seeing as there are so many KS 8000 owners here, here are 2 pics from my KS 8500 (curved model).

There's some light bleed when there is white image on screen. Cant see it in this pic but in 21:9 movies when black bars appear on top and bottom, the bottom left side shows quite a bit of bleed. It's not so noticeable when the lights are lit or during daytime at all, but very annoying when I watch movies in darkness.

Jd6FD4L.jpg


And one damn stuck green pixel.

N8wqFEX.jpg


Do these seem like excessive problems? Samsung service/ warranty here is pretty damn slow so if the backlight bleed is a common problem, I can live with it and the stuck pixel (which is usually not so noticeable).
Click to expand...

get the stuck pixel replaced.. Change that set while you can.. The light bleed might be withing normal limits. Make sure dimming is turned on.. Dead pixel near center is automatic replacement..
 
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