KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

These sets have a problem with interlaced scanned images. On any cable set up, whether you have Direct TV, Comcast, TimeWarner/Spectrum, whatever... If the signal isn't 1080p and there is a lot of compression, these sets cause a judder/pause effect with any type of Motion Plus setting.

You won't get this in streams from Youtube, or from Amazon or Netflix. It's only been replicated, and by everyone, on Cable TV sources.

So for Cable TV watching, disable Auto Motion features completely to resolve the issue.

Yeah I don't have cable..strictly netflix causing judder.
 
So I want someone to pretend like im 5 years old and show me what Im supposed to be seeing with HDR.

Using the witness, show me a spot to look at, what I should be looking for, and what my tV settings should be at, I have a Samsung KS8000 and am able to toggle hdr on and off but im not seeing a noticable effect.

I wish there was a toggle mode for Infamous First light because in that game the headlights on the cars impress me the most , but i dont know if its just the 4K impressing me or if its the HDR effect

If you have a pro and my set copy my settings.

Play a game like uncharted r prologue a notice the lights and bright spots are brighter and nice details in the sky.

Enjoy.
 
Here we go on..you really don't want it on during HDR.

It blows out highlights

Am I crazy? I've been following this thread since inception and I thought the general consensus was, DC performs differently during HDR and contributes to it. Off during SDR, On during HDR.

I swear I saw folks like Haines talking about Low or Medium being their preference during HDR.
 
Am I crazy? I've been following this thread since inception and I thought the general consensus was, DC performs differently during HDR and contributes to it. Off during SDR, On during HDR.

I swear I saw folks like Haines talking about Low or Medium being their preference during HDR.

There were people who were claiming it. Haines was one of them...but he finally came around and realized you should go off;)
 
Am I crazy? I've been following this thread since inception and I thought the general consensus was, DC performs differently during HDR and contributes to it. Off during SDR, On during HDR.

I swear I saw folks like Haines talking about Low or Medium being their preference during HDR.

You are correct. Some of us were trying every setting with good results.

The problem was the benefits from DC killed the benefits HDR gives you.

Setup your tv proper. Leave DC off. Check the in game brightness slider ( usually a nudge higher than medium for me on this tv) and turn your backlight to 20 in game mode.

Enjoy.


A reminder for anyone lost on settings. I have them edited into the OP
 
Judder is bad for Sky HD, happens every so often, picture freezes for like a second, and if you rewind and watch the same bit again, it doesn't happen.


See, with Sky I notice it judders and the sound cuts out.
But if I rewind, neither of those are picked up in the recording.
I know its not the TV as its done it on 3 seperate TV's Ive had.

I spose I could call them and get them to change the cable but I cant be arsed.


I find turning off the Auto Motion removes all judder.

Ah ok!
 
You shouldn't have light bleed in your sweet spot.

k4pcz.jpg
 
I can't approve warm2 settings, the colors look off , brown and boring, standard is where is at imo.


Only when switching back and forth in the settings.

I tried warm1 bc it looked better doing that but than when i played a game i preffered warm2

Standard is blue. If you like blue, standard is certainly your mode of choice,
 
So it's settled.... kind of... dynamic conrast off, especially for HDR content, and for ps4 pro. How about upping brightness a bit?

Also what about normal cable tv, or non HDR content, 1080p blurays...etc. Still recommended to keep dynamic contrast off?
 
So it's settled.... kind of... dynamic conrast off, especially for HDR content, and for ps4 pro. How about upping brightness a bit?

Also what about normal cable tv, or non HDR content, 1080p blurays...etc. Still recommended to keep dynamic contrast off?

Yes, Dynamic Contrast skews the picture in standard content even moreso than with HDR content. Keep it off.
 
So it's settled.... kind of... dynamic conrast off, especially for HDR content, and for ps4 pro. How about upping brightness a bit?

Also what about normal cable tv, or non HDR content, 1080p blurays...etc. Still recommended to keep dynamic contrast off?

I just use in game brightness slider.
 
Why are these 2016 Samsung UHD sets still glitched so that, when in gaming mode, the HDR settings do not discreetly save between that and default color mode?

Because I have the "smart remote" I have to go through like 3 fucking menus every time to change the backlights and then slightly alter the contrast settings to accommodate HDR games.

Is this ever going to be fixed period?

Every other viewing mode on my tv saves the hdr and non hdr settings individually and switches automatically.

Help. Or, is there a shortcut where I can just change backlight with 1 or 2 clicks max instead of fiddling with the damn menus every time? This is terrible and tempts me to just say fuck it and leave game mode off
 
Why are these 2016 Samsung UHD sets still glitched so that, when in gaming mode, the HDR settings do not discreetly save between that and default color mode?

Because I have the "smart remote" I have to go through like 3 fucking menus every time to change the backlights and then slightly alter the contrast settings to accommodate HDR games.

Is this ever going to be fixed period?

Every other viewing mode on my tv saves the hdr and non hdr settings individually and switches automatically.

Help. Or, is there a shortcut where I can just change backlight with 1 or 2 clicks max instead of fiddling with the damn menus every time? This is terrible and tempts me to just say fuck it and leave game mode off

I don't have mine yet but I thought I read that on Movie mode you can lock in two settings templates to switch between. You're gaining latency there though. :/
 
I don't have mine yet but I thought I read that on Movie mode you can lock in two settings templates to switch between. You're gaining latency there though. :/

Yes, on every other viewing mode it saves individually, meaning it is indeed a glitch of some sort.

Even if you just set the input as "game console" with no special viewing mode, it saves correctly the two different viewing profiles.

Last but not least, for all gamers out there who typically in the past have simply set your consoles to "PC" mode (as that turns off all post processing automatically and has a lower input lag than even game mode) .... well, that's no longer an option on Samsung TVs. It does indeed work perfectly on all standard color content and in 4K as well. However, HDR mode, at least with PS4 pro, is completely borked if the tv is set to PC mode, with the colors almost looking overly bright and white washed. Reds will look white washed, etc, almost as if the TV is forcing a higher range HDMI black level while the PS4 is forcing a lower range HDMI black level. I don't know the full technicalities of it, but I'm just saying because I learned this the hard way - PC mode is a no go for HDR PS4 pro
 
Why are these 2016 Samsung UHD sets still glitched so that, when in gaming mode, the HDR settings do not discreetly save between that and default color mode?

That's really annoying. I'm glad my 2015 one does automatically change and change back the backlight / contrast. (in game mode)
 
Okay, I see a lot of confusion on here... Let me see if I can help some of yall, with some settings that those of us on AVS Forums have sort of decided seem to be good all around general default settings for HDR Gaming. I'll explain the reasoning behind some of the settings, as to make this as clear as possible....

FIRST - If you have messed with your White Balance or Color Sliders and you didn't have a professional actually do it, reset to default. You can not use other's settings for this, and any changes you've done are probably for the worst. You can only get correct values for these via software and a professional that knows what they are doing so they can measure your ambient light and whats coming off of the TV.

Now, On to the settings ( I have the KS9500, basically the newer model of the KS8000, same settings transfer over ) And this is for Game Mode, Not Movie Mode, So yes, there is a number to Sharpness for a reason that is still beyond my total comprehension. But 0 Sharpness blurs the textures out, and too much causes tracer lines and other distortion effects. There is a happy medium, so look for it between what I listed.

Game Mode: SDR / *HDR settings listed ( You have to manually change the HDR settings until Sammy gives us another save slot under the Game Mode Picture Setting )

Backlight 13 *HDR 20

Brightness 45

Contrast 95 *HDR 100

Sharpness 17 ( anywhere from 10 to 20 is good, but don't go over 20 or you will start to get artifacts and other image distortion )

Color 50

Tint 50/50

Smart LED High

HDMI Black Level Normal ( Put your PS4 RBG Range to Full so you won't crush blacks ) (Auto will not work, and causes signals to get mixed up and blacks to get crushed, must manually set to what I've posted to get accurate blacks.)

Dynamic Contrast Off *HDR Medium

Color Tone Warm 2 ( you can set this to another option if you prefer. You won't be getting more accurate colors though, but this is a preference type of thing as well )

Again, Don't touch White Balance

Gamma 0

Color Space Auto ( Used to have to be Native for HDR to work, but Sammy patched it for Auto to work, so it's best to do Auto for now )


Also, make sure you have your PS4 set to YUV420 so that you can get proper HDR 10bit.

So I have a JS8500 and figured these settings would work, but I still cant tell if HDR is working (my camera is a little busted so theres some artifacts in there but its otherwise pretty accurate with what I was seeing)

HDR on
Cxpgk5iUoAEh2Dv.jpg


HDR off
Cxpgk5jUUAAvS-_.jpg
 
I find turning off the Auto Motion removes all judder.

So there IS a fix for the judder ? Can anyone else confirm this works for them too ? That would've driven me crazy. Is there a fix for the back panel separating too ?

Oh, and still wondering how to tell whether you have an FA01 or an AA02 panel if anyone knows.
 
Those are old settings. Turn dc off

Dynamic Contrast? Turning it off just made the image darker and more desaturated.

For SDR content you want it off (you can do low according to your tastes, but you might lose some of the darker ranges. For HDR you want it on low or medium and backlight at 20.

But with SDR you crush your blacks and can oversturates natural looking images with DC on too high.
 
Yes, on every other viewing mode it saves individually, meaning it is indeed a glitch of some sort.

Even if you just set the input as "game console" with no special viewing mode, it saves correctly the two different viewing profiles.

Last but not least, for all gamers out there who typically in the past have simply set your consoles to "PC" mode (as that turns off all post processing automatically and has a lower input lag than even game mode) .... well, that's no longer an option on Samsung TVs. It does indeed work perfectly on all standard color content and in 4K as well. However, HDR mode, at least with PS4 pro, is completely borked if the tv is set to PC mode, with the colors almost looking overly bright and white washed. Reds will look white washed, etc, almost as if the TV is forcing a higher range HDMI black level while the PS4 is forcing a lower range HDMI black level. I don't know the full technicalities of it, but I'm just saying because I learned this the hard way - PC mode is a no go for HDR PS4 pro


On these sets, PC mode does not give you lower input lag than game mode.
 
Ugh got light bleed on the bottom of the screen that goes about halfway. Very noticeable on non black backgrounds, going to exchange.
 
Ok so before pulling the trigger on this thing, I want to check with you guys and make sure this is the right panel?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5TFLSE/?tag=neogaf0e-20

There aren't any more NEW Prime sets, but going with either of these two. Anyone have a preference? Both have great ratings.

Adorama Camera
https://www.amazon.com/sp?_encoding...derID=&seller=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&tab=&vasStoreID=

or

Video & Audio Center
https://www.amazon.com/sp?_encoding...derID=&seller=A13ACIRM091OJE&tab=&vasStoreID=

Thanks GAF!
 
For SDR content you want it off (you can do low according to your tastes, but you might lose some of the darker ranges. For HDR you want it on low or medium and backlight at 20.

But with SDR you crush your blacks and can oversturates natural looking images with DC on too high.

dc on low or medium will kill any detail hdr is giving you

Off is the best but by all means do you as you guys wish
 
Hi guys,I'm using a color calibration wallpaper with the tvs internet browser and I can't seem to adjust the color,contrast,gamma options, the only settings that work are backlit options and color tone. Any ideas?
 
dc on low or medium will kill any detail hdr is giving you

Off is the best but by all means do you as you guys wish

I dont seek to argue, just to understand. What detail? Colors are less vivid and the whites are being greyed out when DC is off.
 
I dont seek to argue, just to understand. What detail? Colors are less vivid and the whites are being greyed out when DC is off.

details in the black range from black to darker Grey's can get "crushed' by DC interpreting those values are darker than they should be. Grab something to do a clipping test (I linked a site before or just look up AVSHD calibration and grab the files there).
Clipping tests basically show a white range and black range and make sure you can see the gradients that are supposed to be able to be seen based on your black level.

chances are your TV settings needs to be adjusted again once DC is off as most the sites have calibrated with those being on in mind. May need to drop your brightness.
 
I dont seek to argue, just to understand. What detail? Colors are less vivid and the whites are being greyed out when DC is off.


I apologize but I've spent 35 pages and a week already discussing and testing this on my ks8000.

The only thing I could ask is if your settings are on auto on ps4 and tv and you are hooking up directly ps4 to tv.

If your settings are my settings i put in OP using this tv hooked directly to pro you will get nothing short of an incredible image. Also check brightness slider in game.

I have seen people using recievers or spmething betwen tv and pro not getting the 10 bit color.
I've played 7 chapters in last of us since yesterday and it was nothing short of incredible looking.
 
I purchased the LG 6030 (55') at Microcenter and was extremely pleased with the quality of it. I also picked up a PS4 Pro and with this unit I have the HDCP 1.4 black screen issue.

I read all the positive press and reviews on the Samsung SK8000 (also 55') so I got one of those as well hoping to ditch the HDCP 1.4/Sony issue.

My setup:
I use the display as my office computer monitor with my ps 4 pro connected as well.
My pc is extremely beefy and am using Nvidia1080 as video card.

With the LG I spent a very long time tweaking the picture settings for my PC and PS4Pro. Outside of the subpar depth of the color on the LG (and HDCP 1.4 issue) everything else about the unit preforms great for a 55' $450 UHDR TV.

Then I got the Samsung unit (today). Quickly did basic setup.....and was amazed at the difference. The Samsung unit is stunning.

My issue: Motion blur on the Samsung while playing PC games is extremely bad. LG performs flawlessly.

I have turned off the trumotion 240 settings with the Samsung and still have really poor performance (with game mode as well).

PS4 Pro Preforms great on the Samsung.....am I missing something?
 
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