If you're going to buy a display I've heard of some having built in KVM functionality nowadays, like there's two USB uplink ports to connect to two machines at once, and it'll switch based on the video input. Otherwise there's network KVM software that might work if both machines are on the same LAN.Does anybody know of an elegant solution to allow both my Macbook Pro and my work Windows laptop to use the same monitor and peripherals (keyboard/mouse) and perhaps speakers as well? I looked at some KVM switches and they have poor reviews or old/legacy ports (VGA instead of HDMI). A thunderbolt monitor seems ideal but my work laptop is a Lenovo W540 and the Thunderbolt port on it only seems to work for a display, not pass through for peripherals.
Just trying to redesign a home office without a mess of wires and cables everywhere.
Yeah for storage there's not much point outside the extreme end of speeds. The only other reason I can think of would be that you can boot Windows off TB (and other increasingly niche stuff like native SATA access to drives for diagnostic purposes or something).unless your buying a TB SSD, or using a lot of bandwidth at once, then IMO buying a Thunderbolt HDD over a USB3 HDD is kind of silly. Doubt there is much of a speed improvement for normal users, seems like the speed of the HDD is the real bottleneck.
Does anybody know of an elegant solution to allow both my Macbook Pro and my work Windows laptop to use the same monitor and peripherals (keyboard/mouse) and perhaps speakers as well? I looked at some KVM switches and they have poor reviews or old/legacy ports (VGA instead of HDMI). A thunderbolt monitor seems ideal but my work laptop is a Lenovo W540 and the Thunderbolt port on it only seems to work for a display, not pass through for peripherals.
Just trying to redesign a home office without a mess of wires and cables everywhere.
If anybody needs the European, Korean, Brazilian, and Australian AC adapters, you can contact Apple customer service right now. You will have to tell them that you own the World Travel Kit with all those adapters and require a replacement for safety reasons (they currently have a replacement program running).
They will send you the adapters and an envelope, in which you can send the old adapters back. No return is required though, so it also works for those who don't own the World Travel Kit.
Came in quite handy as I didn't want to buy the set but need some of the adapters.
I have the old kit. Are the adapters unsafe?
If anybody needs the European, Korean, Brazilian, and Australian AC adapters, you can contact Apple customer service right now. You will have to tell them that you own the World Travel Kit with all those adapters and require a replacement for safety reasons (they currently have a replacement program running).
They will send you the adapters and an envelope, in which you can send the old adapters back. No return is required though, so it also works for those who don't own the World Travel Kit.
Came in quite handy as I didn't want to buy the set but need some of the adapters.
So I'm in school maybe a year and a half left. I've been using an original iPad mini to take notes with a zagg keyboard but now I'm feeling the sluggish power of this iPad.
Anyone think I should just look into an air or something else? Don't think the 2015 MacBook is practical tho design and weight is what I want. The price isn't
I just need something mostly for taking notes downloading documents and doing the occasional PowerPoint and excel sheets for school and work.. Any advice? Air? Refurbished or older model?.. Wait for hr inevitable late March April refreshes?...
So I'm in school maybe a year and a half left. I've been using an original iPad mini to take notes with a zagg keyboard but now I'm feeling the sluggish power of this iPad.
Anyone think I should just look into an air or something else? Don't think the 2015 MacBook is practical tho design and weight is what I want. The price isn't
I just need something mostly for taking notes downloading documents and doing the occasional PowerPoint and excel sheets for school and work.. Any advice? Air? Refurbished or older model?.. Wait for hr inevitable late March April refreshes?...
At this point might as well wait for the refreshes if you want an iPad. If you buy new you'll get a better device. If you buy used or refurb you'll get it for cheaper.
As for whether getting an iPad or a Mac makes sense, depends how comfortable you are doing the tasks on either. I'd prefer a laptop but I'm old school like that.
I prefer an MBAir for most of that stuff. But if your comfortable with an iPad Air for doing that stuff then it might be preferable to you. Rumor is the IPad Air is gonna be updated in March-April but that would mean your stuck with your old iPad Mini this whole term. It's really up to what you want and when you need it.
I'm interested in getting a Mac Mini as a media server, do we know when they will be getting a refresh or if it will be worth waiting or not? I wanted to buy a second hand 2012 model but they seem to have kept their price.
Ah thanks so refresh could be in the autumn. I'm not too sure the upgrade would be worth the wait if I can get a refurbished one.They seem to be on a 2-year refresh cycle, so they may get a refresh during Fall 2016. But there is no guarantee of it.
Depends on your model.Managed to get my hands on an iMac 27 inch.
Is it possible to connect my Gaming PC onto this and use it as a display or no?
Depends on your model.
http://macs.about.com/od/usingyourmac/qt/using-target-display-mode.htm
Note: I don't know if it'll work with HDMI if that's all you have. Unless HDMI is DisplayPort compatible. I was wondering myself if there was any way at all to plug my Wii U into it. Or an Alienware Alpha when I get it.
There are adapters to input HDMI, but not if there's no Target Display mode.
Search eBay for 2011 Mac minis, looks like the lower bound for them is around $400...higher end who knows, maybe $600-700? Problem is that you need buyers that know the value of the upgrades and want and are willing to pay for them, when I'm guessing a lot of people are just trying to get a cheap Mac, course it also depends where you're selling it.Posted this in Apple Watch looking for this thread:
I have a Mac Mini that is pretty beastly but it's a few years old and I'm thinking of selling it... But don't know how much I could get for it. Figuring I'd post in here.
It's a Mac Mini (Mid 2011)
2.7 Ghz Intel Core i7
16 GB 1600 Mhz DDR3 Ram
512 SSD
AMD Radeon HD 6630M 256MB
If anybody has a guess in this thread too I'd appreciate it.
Search eBay for 2011 Mac minis, looks like the lower bound for them is around $400...higher end who knows, maybe $600-700? Problem is that you need buyers that know the value of the upgrades and want and are willing to pay for them, when I'm guessing a lot of people are just trying to get a cheap Mac, course it also depends where you're selling it.
...or agree to $400, then try to deal down to $300 once you meet up.eBay is a much better fit for that than Craigslist/Kijiji/Gumtree/etc, the latter of which will give you offers like mine, above.
...or agree to $400, then try to deal down to $300 once you meet up.
Ugh, I own and use the world travel kit so I called Apple and ordered the replacements.
But they did require me to authorize them to put $10.97 cash hold on my CC for each adaptor, and I have all four, and they said that if I didn't return the old adaptors then they would charge my CC for the whole amount.
Instead I am going into an Apple Retail store tomorrow to swap them out, it's on my way to work.
http://www.theverge.com/2016/2/3/10900612/walt-mossberg-apple-iphone-ios-mac-osx-app-problems
This article makes some good points. iCloud mostly still sucks. The only thing I like about it is Photo Stream. Otherwise I just use Google Drive.
...or agree to $400, then try to deal down to $300 once you meet up.
Every time that has happened I have walked from the deal and refused to sell to them, even if they match my original offer.Mercifully haven't had that happen. Certainly have to weed through a lot of email.
Every time that has happened I have walked from the deal and refused to sell to them, even if they match my original offer.
Fuck those people.
Search eBay for 2011 Mac minis, looks like the lower bound for them is around $400...higher end who knows, maybe $600-700? Problem is that you need buyers that know the value of the upgrades and want and are willing to pay for them, when I'm guessing a lot of people are just trying to get a cheap Mac, course it also depends where you're selling it.
Alternatively if those were your own upgrades and you have the original parts, the SSD might be more valuable separately depending on what it is, or just swap into another machine if you have a use for it. Maybe the same for the RAM but probably not as much of a deal.
If there's dents and blood stains on the aluminum just run away.Yeah that's jerky.
Going to be picking up an old PowerMac this weekend. Hopefully not murdered in the process.
If there's dents and blood stains on the aluminum just run away.
My Mac is stuck on the account loading screen.
Well, not my Mac, my boss's. We decided to update it. It was running 10.7.5 on a Macbook Pro that's probably from 2009-2010 (no earlier). Installing El Capitan took a while, but it eventually worked.
Now the computer boots up normally and gets to the account login screen just fine. But when we type the password and press enter, the loading wheel spins... and never stops. It can't go past the home screen.
What should I do? I don't know Macs well, I'm a PC user.
Try two basic resets:
SMC reset - while shut down, but with the charger connected, hold the left shift, control, option buttons down and tap the power button.
Then try PRAM reset - turn on machine, and hold option-command +P+R until you hear the machine chime once and keep holding until it reboots and chimes again.
these are basic resets that MIGHT get it going. If not, you can try a few other things including:
Safe boot: hold shift when booting - this boots with only the drivers necessary to get going. If this works then there might be some bad software install or driver issue.
You may try booting to the recovery partition (hold R) and from there run disk utility and check the volume structure. If that needs repair it might be a corrupt file system.
Anything beyond that may require a call to an apple centre as you may need to reinstall the OS, or potentially may have a failing hard drive or other hardware issue.
Sorry for the repost, but I have a question: I tried resetting NVRAM (which I guess is the same thing as PRAM) using this guide: http://appletoolbox.com/2015/10/mac-os-x-el-capitan-will-not-start-up-after-update-fix/
It worked!
However, now I'm wondering: is it a good idea to run all this other stuff (SMC resetting, disk drive utility...) just to make sure everything's okay and to improve general performance?
My boss's computer tends to be sluggish, and I suspect that's because she doesn't do anything/doesn't know to do anything to maintain it in any way. Case in point: she was still running 10.7.5.
Will doing all this potentially improve performance?
It won't improve performance unless something was actually wrong to begin with.
SMC Reset is the System Management Controller reset - basically a low level hardware reset of the power management system. This may work if your symptoms are power-related.
PRAM reset (and yes this is the same thing as NVRAM reset - "Parameter RAM" or "Non-volatile RAM" is resetting some pre-boot parameters, including last set system volume, destination boot disk etc. This might work for a number of things, but a reasonably common problem it can fix is not booting correctly after an update.
Disk Utility: you run the checks onto system to repair some minor file system corruptions. Doesn't hurt to try them if you get in there, and you can "verify" instead of "repair" if you just want to check for errors.
Just a note - since you have reset PRAM, one thing it actually resets is the choice of startup disk. Usually it doesn't mean much, as the Mac will boot to the closest drive, which is usually the main one, but in some instances, it can take a bit longer to find that drive after a PRAM reset, causing it to appear to take a long time to boot. IF you're experiencing a slow boot up after resetting PRAM (or even if you're not really):
GO to System Preferences -> Startup Disk. You'll notice there is probably only one option; Macintosh HD - typically it will have under it that it is selected to boot to, but after a PRAM reset, it will be deselected. Select it again and restart.
Sorry for the repost, but I have a question: I tried resetting NVRAM (which I guess is the same thing as PRAM) using this guide: http://appletoolbox.com/2015/10/mac-os-x-el-capitan-will-not-start-up-after-update-fix/
It worked!
However, now I'm wondering: is it a good idea to run all this other stuff (SMC resetting, disk drive utility...) just to make sure everything's okay and to improve general performance?
My boss's computer tends to be sluggish, and I suspect that's because she doesn't do anything/doesn't know to do anything to maintain it in any way. Case in point: she was still running 10.7.5.
Will doing all this potentially improve performance?
In terms of performance, the "nuclear option" but most straight-forward way of making sure hardware is performing at its best is a clean install—wiping the drive and starting a fresh copy of the new OS. In most cases I find that makes the computer feel brand new, with the caveats that it's obviously not going to make 2010 hardware as fast as 2015 hardware.
As mrkgoo explained, most troubleshooting tasks themselves aren't really harmful to your computer, nor can they really speed things up.
The T key on my Retina MacBook Pro is becoming hard to push. By which I mean I have to press it multiple times before it works. It's the only key I'm having trouble with. I'm afraid to try and take the key off though. And I'm sure it'd cost a pretty penny to replace the entire thing which I don't have.
ranslaion:
he key on my Retina MacBook Pro is becoming hard to push. By which I mean I have to press it multiple times before it works. I's he only key I'm having rouble with. I'm afraid o ry and ake he key off though. And I'm sure it'd cost a pretty penny o replace he enire hing which I don have.
The T key on my Retina MacBook Pro is becoming hard to push. By which I mean I have to press it multiple times before it works. It's the only key I'm having trouble with. I'm afraid to try and take the key off though. And I'm sure it'd cost a pretty penny to replace the entire thing which I don't have.
ranslaion:
he key on my Retina MacBook Pro is becoming hard to push. By which I mean I have to press it multiple times before it works. I's he only key I'm having rouble with. I'm afraid o ry and ake he key off though. And I'm sure it'd cost a pretty penny o replace he enire hing which I don have.
Now the Calendar doesn't display all the events that were in it prior to the OS update. How can I get them back?
the computer generally seems sluggish (more so than before). Is El Capitan much more resource-intensive than 10.7.5? She's got a 2012 Pro with 4gigs of RAM.
Yeah, but she's got too much work-related data on it, [...] She can't just do a clean wipe.
I've taken my Macs to the Apple Store in the past - even outside of warranty - and they've fixed sticky keys on the spot for free. They have a lot of extra keys lying around, and for someone who knows what they're doing, it takes all of about 45 seconds. You might just have something stuck (food crumb) and/or the butterfly mechanism is just worn. Worth a shot.
Yeah I'll definitely take it somewhere, but it's not often ha I am in he vacancy of an Apple Sore.The worst thing that can happen if you take it to an Apple Store is being charged for the fix.
More often than not for me, they fix them for free. Just strike up some good dialogue, and tell them about the issue.