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[rofif]

Make sure you get a soundbar or av system ready when you get an LG. speakers sound terrible. If you can, spring for one with earc, helps a lot with the sound lip sync.

Far from truth. The c1 speakers are fantastic. Jest enable cinema audio mode, disable ai crap, disable atmos crap and enable bass boost.(optional but I like it)
It’s on par with presonus e3.5. Best speakers I’ve heard on the tv

 

[Forsete]

Ordered a C2 65".

Cant wait.
This will be my first OLED TV.

 

[pesaddict]

Welcome the the DARK !

 

[rofif]

Ordered a C2 65".

Cant wait.
This will be my first OLED TV.

For ps5 or pc use ?

 

[Forsete]

For ps5 or pc use ?

PS5!

Maybe I will hook my PC up to it at a later date.

 

[rofif]

PS5!

Maybe I will hook my PC up to it at a later date.

Be sure to set ps5 HDR settings in HGIG hdr mode. Then You can use either hgig or dynamic tone mapping in hdr games whichever looks better.
But Calibration best be done with HGIG setting.

Not sure about c2 but on c1, game mode is good and engaged automatically. Just change color warmth to warm50. Looks a bit yellow at first but it's close to d65 proper standard. I am using it too.
and for audio - on c1, if I disable atmos crap, ai crap, enable bass boost and select Cinema audio mode, the speakers are great

 

[Forsete]

Be sure to set ps5 HDR settings in HGIG hdr mode. Then You can use either hgig or dynamic tone mapping in hdr games whichever looks better.
But Calibration best be done with HGIG setting.

Not sure about c2 but on c1, game mode is good and engaged automatically. Just change color warmth to warm50. Looks a bit yellow at first but it's close to d65 proper standard. I am using it too.
and for audio - on c1, if I disable atmos crap, ai crap, enable bass boost and select Cinema audio mode, the speakers are great

Thanks!

I will make sure to dive into the settings properly.
I am currently playing the PS5 on my LG computer monitor which is a 38GN950, its a very nice monitor, but when playing HDR on it everything looks washed out (probably due to the backlight bleeding through). So I opt to play in SDR-mode only.
Looking forward to play HDR the proper way.

 

[rofif]

Thanks!

I will make sure to dive into the settings properly.
I am currently playing the PS5 on my LG computer monitor which is a 38GN950, its a very nice monitor, but when playing HDR on it everything looks washed out (probably due to the backlight bleeding through). So I opt to play in SDR-mode only.
Looking forward to play HDR the proper way.

Oh I wanted that monitor badly but I waited a year and got 48" c1
for sdr still the best idea is not to use hdr mode. You will see and experiment

 

[Kazekage1981]

 

[MastAndo]

Hey OLED GAF, so I recently purchased a Hisense 55" U8G and have about two weeks left to return it to Amazon. I didn't buy this set because I was penny pinching - it just checked all the boxes (Samsung sets are missing Dolby Vision, for example) and had glowing reviews at a great price point. It's been mostly pretty great (surprisingly so, considering how cheap it was), but the 120hz HDR modes are borked/washed out due to a recent firmware upgrade. I upgraded a Samsung KS8000 to a more modern set to have these features, so I'm not looking to settle for something without them in a usable place.

Either way, I was just sure I needed an LED since I use my TV as a PC monitor (for work as well), so I figured OLED was out of the question...but the release of the LG C2 and price drops on the C1 have definitely piqued my interest.

I never had an OLED before, so I'm not sure what to expect. My only sorta similar experience was owning a Panasonic GT50 years back for about a week - I returned it as I couldn't deal with the ABL. I played a bunch of NHL at the time, and the ice was straight up gray and dim.

I'm wondering if I'm just not the intended market for an OLED, what with planned PC usage, sensitivity to ABL and never watching TV in the dark...or maybe there's a particular set that is best at negating these concerns. I'm having trouble deciding, but the temptation is definitely there. Decisions, decisions.

 

[Excess]

So I own a B7. I was waiting to see what the C2 would have improved over the C1, and since the VRR black-levels still haven't been hardware fixed, I see no reason to buy the C2. I could pick up a 65" C1 now for a decent price.

 

[rofif]

So I own a B7. I was waiting to see what the C2 would have improved over the C1, and since the VRR black-levels still haven't been hardware fixed, I see no reason to buy the C2. I could pick up a 65" C1 now for a decent price.

C2 also removed 120 hz bfi.
So c1 is great choice. And yes, vrr still changes gamma a bit

 

[StateofMajora]

It's been mostly pretty great (surprisingly so, considering how cheap it was), but the 120hz HDR modes are borked/washed out due to a recent firmware upgrade.

I know this is too late in this case, but remember to disable automatic updates on your next tv.

In fact the best thing to do, is never update unless you know a specific update addressed a problem. Plug ethernet in for the update, then done unplug it lol.

Sucks very much these companies have the ability to brick a tv…

 

[rofif]

I know this is too late in this case, but remember to disable automatic updates on your next tv.

In fact the best thing to do, is never update unless you know a specific update addressed a problem. Plug ethernet in for the update, then done unplug it lol.

Sucks very much these companies have the ability to brick a tv…

Good advice. I hate the same thing with games. That’s one of theoretical reasons pro disc because I can always just not patch the game

 

[StateofMajora]

C2 also removed 120 hz bfi.

Whooooa. Didn’t know that.

C2 is trash then. Definitely between the 2 tvs get the c1.

What the hell lg?

 

[SenjutsuSage]

Far from truth. The c1 speakers are fantastic. Jest enable cinema audio mode, disable ai crap, disable atmos crap and enable bass boost.(optional but I like it)
It’s on par with presonus e3.5. Best speakers I’ve heard on the tv

My new C1's AI sound is INCREDIBLE. How are you saying it's crap when it boosts the sound in such an amazing way? Definitely the best speakers I've ever heard on a TV. It's that damn good.

 

[rofif]

My new C1's AI sound is INCREDIBLE. How are you saying it's crap when it boosts the sound in such an amazing way? Definitely the best speakers I've ever heard on a TV. It's that damn good.

Sounds artificial. I might try it again after your opinion.
But the pure cinema sounds with nothing else except maybe bass boost sounds just more full.
Anyway, the sound on these is good

 

[SenjutsuSage]

Sounds artificial. I might try it again after your opinion.
But the pure cinema sounds with nothing else except maybe bass boost sounds just more full.
Anyway, the sound on these is good

Yea, it boosted sound quality to such an amazing and room filling way that I just can't do without it.

 

[Fbh]

Btw is there a way to keep the TV (c1) from automatically switch to the "game optimized" audio mode every time I play a game?.

Game mode for the picture is great, game mode for the audio sucks

 

[I collect VHS tapes]

what TV sound mode do you guys use when using Dolby Atmos and headphones on your c1?

I watch a good deal of stuff on my xbox using Dolby Atmos, never sure what sound mode I should be using on the c1.

 

[Dave_at_Home]

Sounds artificial. I might try it again after your opinion.
But the pure cinema sounds with nothing else except maybe bass boost sounds just more full.
Anyway, the sound on these is good

Yep. Cinema is the best for overall sound through the speakers.

Btw is there a way to keep the TV (c1) from automatically switch to the "game optimized" audio mode every time I play a game?.

Game mode for the picture is great, game mode for the audio sucks

I'm not really sure. Sometimes it stays in cinema but most of the time it goes to game optimized. I've circumvented the issue using Steelseries Arctis 9X Wireless for my Series X. Bought the Dolby Atmos sound app too. Changed the sound profile in the app to movie mode and it's legit awesome.

 

[MastAndo]

I know this is too late in this case, but remember to disable automatic updates on your next tv.

In fact the best thing to do, is never update unless you know a specific update addressed a problem. Plug ethernet in for the update, then done unplug it lol.

Sucks very much these companies have the ability to brick a tv…

Yeah, I was actually looking to apply the update though, as it was to fix display issues in 4k/120 where the vertical resolution was halved. It did fix that, and broke other things in the process. It also improved motion on it. It seems lots of TV's that aren't in the LG OLEDs make concessions to display 4k/120 "properly". Still, not acceptable.

 

[Toytown Assassin]

B1 55 inch or C1 48?? I only have 2 devices that can use 2.1 hdmi so that isn't a problem with the B1. Any other reason not to get the larger screen? Roughly the same price atm.

 

[kittoo]

Hey OLED GAF, so I recently purchased a Hisense 55" U8G and have about two weeks left to return it to Amazon. I didn't buy this set because I was penny pinching - it just checked all the boxes (Samsung sets are missing Dolby Vision, for example) and had glowing reviews at a great price point. It's been mostly pretty great (surprisingly so, considering how cheap it was), but the 120hz HDR modes are borked/washed out due to a recent firmware upgrade. I upgraded a Samsung KS8000 to a more modern set to have these features, so I'm not looking to settle for something without them in a usable place.

Either way, I was just sure I needed an LED since I use my TV as a PC monitor (for work as well), so I figured OLED was out of the question...but the release of the LG C2 and price drops on the C1 have definitely piqued my interest.

I never had an OLED before, so I'm not sure what to expect. My only sorta similar experience was owning a Panasonic GT50 years back for about a week - I returned it as I couldn't deal with the ABL. I played a bunch of NHL at the time, and the ice was straight up gray and dim.

I'm wondering if I'm just not the intended market for an OLED, what with planned PC usage, sensitivity to ABL and never watching TV in the dark...or maybe there's a particular set that is best at negating these concerns. I'm having trouble deciding, but the temptation is definitely there. Decisions, decisions.

I've been using a C9 as my PC monitor and PS5 gaming TV since November 2019. Here are my 2 cents-

1. I have had no issues as a monitor. Haven't had burn-in as of now. I use it around 10 hour a day average. Haven't cared for changing content specifically to prevent burn-in. I just use it the way I want. Have set the windows bar to auto-hide but that's it.
2. I keep brightness very low when doing my regular work. Its too bright for general work otherwise. I increase it to max when gaming or watching a movie. ABL only hits when the screen is completely static (if you pause on a game screen for example), otherwise I have never seen it kick-in.
3. It's bright for sure, but not to an LED level. Is it enough? Depends on person. In HDR I could take some more brightness here and there but still prefer the inky blacks more. They make the picture quality great and even make scenes seem brighter than they are. That's why I am so excited for QD-OLEDs this year. 1000 nits brightness with OLED blacks? Here I come baby!
4. Finally, I use it in a dimly lit room. If your room is bathing in light then I could see this being problem, especially when combined with highly reflective surfaces of OLEDs.

So, in summary, do not worry about burn-in or using as a monitor. Picture quality is absolutely amazing but if you want eye-searing brightness then maybe not.

 

[MastAndo]

I've been using a C9 as my PC monitor and PS5 gaming TV since November 2019. Here are my 2 cents-

1. I have had no issues as a monitor. Haven't had burn-in as of now. I use it around 10 hour a day average. Haven't cared for changing content specifically to prevent burn-in. I just use it the way I want. Have set the windows bar to auto-hide but that's it.
2. I keep brightness very low when doing my regular work. Its too bright for general work otherwise. I increase it to max when gaming or watching a movie. ABL only hits when the screen is completely static (if you pause on a game screen for example), otherwise I have never seen it kick-in.
3. It's bright for sure, but not to an LED level. Is it enough? Depends on person. In HDR I could take some more brightness here and there but still prefer the inky blacks more. They make the picture quality great and even make scenes seem brighter than they are. That's why I am so excited for QD-OLEDs this year. 1000 nits brightness with OLED blacks? Here I come baby!
4. Finally, I use it in a dimly lit room. If your room is bathing in light then I could see this being problem, especially when combined with highly reflective surfaces of OLEDs.

So, in summary, do not worry about burn-in or using as a monitor. Picture quality is absolutely amazing but if you want eye-searing brightness then maybe not.

That's good to hear. I'm very close to purchasing a C1 so I can test it out for a bit, and decide if I I want to keep it or the Hisense U8G. I can't really justify the extra $700 for the C2, despite the extra brightness. I would wait for more (user) reviews, but the return window on the Hisense is closing.

Also, I think what you're describing is ASBL. That can be disabled on LG OLEDs using a service remote you can find on Amazon. It's good to know I can do that if it becomes an issue. ABL is something that can't be disabled. It's just inherent to OLED technology and causes a general dimming when a large, bright area is to be displayed. I know some people don't notice it happening on their sets, which is a good sign. Then again, I've heard others sent their sets right back because they couldn't deal with it. I guess we'll see.

 

[rofif]

That's good to hear. I'm very close to purchasing a C1 so I can test it out for a bit, and decide if I I want to keep it or the Hisense U8G. I can't really justify the extra $700 for the C2, despite the extra brightness. I would wait for more (user) reviews, but the return window on the Hisense is closing.

Also, I think what you're describing is ASBL. That can be disabled on LG OLEDs using a service remote you can find on Amazon. It's good to know I can do that if it becomes an issue. ABL is something that can't be disabled. It's just inherent to OLED technology nd causes a general dimming when a large, bright area is to be displayed. I know some people don't notice it happening on their sets, which is a good sign. Then again, I've heard others sent their sets right back because they couldn't deal with it. I guess we'll see.

abl is not an issue imo. I never find c1 too dark

 

[ParaSeoul]

Hey OLED GAF, so I recently purchased a Hisense 55" U8G and have about two weeks left to return it to Amazon. I didn't buy this set because I was penny pinching - it just checked all the boxes (Samsung sets are missing Dolby Vision, for example) and had glowing reviews at a great price point. It's been mostly pretty great (surprisingly so, considering how cheap it was), but the 120hz HDR modes are borked/washed out due to a recent firmware upgrade. I upgraded a Samsung KS8000 to a more modern set to have these features, so I'm not looking to settle for something without them in a usable place.

Either way, I was just sure I needed an LED since I use my TV as a PC monitor (for work as well), so I figured OLED was out of the question...but the release of the LG C2 and price drops on the C1 have definitely piqued my interest.

I never had an OLED before, so I'm not sure what to expect. My only sorta similar experience was owning a Panasonic GT50 years back for about a week - I returned it as I couldn't deal with the ABL. I played a bunch of NHL at the time, and the ice was straight up gray and dim.

I'm wondering if I'm just not the intended market for an OLED, what with planned PC usage, sensitivity to ABL and never watching TV in the dark...or maybe there's a particular set that is best at negating these concerns. I'm having trouble deciding, but the temptation is definitely there. Decisions, decisions.

A C1 will be brighter than your KS8000,not as bright as the U8G but then again i hear that was too bright anyway. IDK why you would think OLEDs and plasma are comparable brightness wise,plasmas were barely above 100 nits. The FUD spread by LCD owners is too prevalent.

 

[ParaSeoul]

Whooooa. Didn’t know that.

C2 is trash then. Definitely between the 2 tvs get the c1.

What the hell lg?

They were ahead of the game for years with those features and full HDMI 2.1 support on all 4 ports,maybe they just assumed they could get away with it. Especially since Samsung can get away with not supporting features. I'm predicting Samsungs 144hz screens and 4 HDMI 2.1 ports this year across the range will steal a lot away from the C2.

 

[StateofMajora]

They were ahead of the game for years with those features and full HDMI 2.1 support on all 4 ports,maybe they just assumed they could get away with it. Especially since Samsung can get away with not supporting features. I'm predicting Samsungs 144hz screens and 4 HDMI 2.1 ports this year across the range will steal a lot away from the C2.

No 120hz bfi is an absolute shitshow. I've enjoyed a fantastic 120hz bfi since 2017 on my x900e lcd.

IIRC though the Qn90a only had 60hz bfi as well.

I mean I'm not even sure why LG would remove 120hz bfi... maybe they're saving some money on the panels or chipset? Very weird. All the work had already been done since 2020 CX panels...

 

[Venuspower]

They were ahead of the game for years with those features and full HDMI 2.1 support on all 4 ports

Even LG also has no "Full HDMI support" so far. Features like QMS and QFT are still missing (plus some others more irrelevant features). LG has also cut the HDMI bandwidth in recent years. Only the 2022 OLEDs are on the same level as the 2019s in terms of bandwidth. Even if 40 Gbps vs. 48 Gbps is not of great relevance now, it was still a downgrade.

 

[MastAndo]

A C1 will be brighter than your KS8000,not as bright as the U8G but then again i hear that was too bright anyway. IDK why you would think OLEDs and plasma are comparable brightness wise,plasmas were barely above 100 nits. The FUD spread by LCD owners is too prevalent.

I realize OLEDs are brighter than plasmas, I was referring specifically to ABL which affects both display technologies.

 

[Chiggs]

Last piece of the puzzle is in. I purchased a 55" A90J for my bedroom and mounted it on a swivel stand. First OLED I've seen that packs an HDR punch. Extremely impressive.

 

[MastAndo]

Watched a pretty lengthy LG C1 vs C2 comparison stream tonight;



I wanted to see a reason to spend the ~$700 extra on the C2, but it didn't happen. The brightness was mostly comparable, with the C2 only seeming to jump ahead with Dynamic Tone Mapping enabled (which also looked a bit blown out to my eyes, but that could have been the camera's exposure). Also, the motion seemed smoother in the tests they ran. Still, despite really liking the extra clearance in the design for a sound bar, and the lighter weight, they just seem too similar to justify the cost difference. So yeah, I ordered a C1 a few moments ago after watching this.

 

[thebigmanjosh]

Last piece of the puzzle is in. I purchased a 55" A90J for my bedroom and mounted it on a swivel stand. First OLED I've seen that packs an HDR punch. Extremely impressive.

It’s a beautiful set. One recommendation I would make for movies/streaming is to match the Dolby vision Vivid settings to Dolby bright (reduce color from 70 to 50, turn off advanced contrast/black level, etc). The picture is identical but it allows for more peak brightness in the <5% windows.

Dolby Dark is the most accurate but there’s some content that’s mastered to <100 nits and may be too dark for your setting.

Also get an ATV 4K. There’s a 2x-4x jump in bitrate on some apps and it’s one of the few devices that let you stream 4k/HDR on Hulu

 

[StateofMajora]

Man, a 55 inch c1 is only 1100 at best buy, wow what a deal. C1 has really good motion and HDR, only the upscaling/gradients keeps it from being truly great.

I would probably just get one if the OLED panel lottery wasn't so bad ; my eyes really pick up on banding and grid so I'd need a unicorn quality set

 

[Classicrockfan]

Had my c1 since September and today I had my tv do it’s first pixel shift when I went to sleep.

 

[rofif]

Had my c1 since September and today I had my tv do it’s first pixel shift when I went to sleep.

Nice. I had my c1 since march and pixel refresher last week finally.
But I did had a panel replaced in late July due to stuck green pixel.... so I guess the timer was reset.
I need the eng remote to check hours and if I have evo panel or not

 

[MastAndo]

Nice. I had my c1 since march and pixel refresher last week finally.
But I did had a panel replaced in late July due to stuck green pixel.... so I guess the timer was reset.
I need the eng remote to check hours and if I have evo panel or not

You can check using the serial number on the unit itself, or even easier if you still have the box;

How to know if your LG C1 has an EVO panel without opening it

The EVO panel was one of the big differences between the LG G1 and the LG C1, beyond design details. This is a more advanced type of panel than the

techunwrapped.com

 

[rofif]

You can check using the serial number on the unit itself, or even easier if you still have the box;

How to know if your LG C1 has an EVO panel without opening it

The EVO panel was one of the big differences between the LG G1 and the LG C1, beyond design details. This is a more advanced type of panel than the

techunwrapped.com

But my panel has been replaced. So who knows

 

[MastAndo]

But my panel has been replaced. So who knows

Oh, right.

 

[Rickyiez]

Getting a C1 48" soon which will be plugged in to my PC . It will only be used for shows/movies/single player games as I have another 25" for FPS/works/web browsing

Any beginner tips ? Not sure if I should just put the TV on standby whenever I'm not using it or having it on with automated wallpaper change .

 

[Otre]

I use my Oled as a PC monitor. Dunno why Windows dosent have a true black setting. I hide the taskbar and theres a line glow at the bottom. Had to go to the registry to change everything to black.



Even after that there was a pixel of light in the right bottom corner. I had to search on how to hide the Show Desktop button. Turns out, a prehistoric Windows 7 program is the only solution Show Desktop Remover.

 

[rofif]

I use my Oled as a PC monitor. Dunno why Windows dosent have a true black setting. I hide the taskbar and theres a line glow at the bottom. Had to go to the registry to change everything to black.



Even after that there was a pixel of light in the right bottom corner. I had to search on how to hide the Show Desktop button. Turns out, a prehistoric Windows 7 program is the only solution Show Desktop Remover.

Don’t bother. The line will move with pixel shifting.
And don’t make everything black. It makes no sense. Better to have normal wallpapers randomised.
Otherwise you will always have some parts of the screen black with no use and in the centre more usage.
With randomised wallpapers you get more uniform use on whole screen.
At least it my head it makes some sense

 

[Otre]

Don’t bother. The line will move with pixel shifting.
And don’t make everything black. It makes no sense. Better to have normal wallpapers randomised.
Otherwise you will always have some parts of the screen black with no use and in the centre more usage.
With randomised wallpapers you get more uniform use on whole screen.
At least it my head it makes some sense

Youre right but im still paranoid about the burn in. Im an old fuck that dosent use randomized wallpapers cause i want every ounce of my cpu available.

 

[rofif]

Youre right but im still paranoid about the burn in. Im an old fuck that dosent use randomized wallpapers cause i want every ounce of my cpu available.

Haha. I am not sure if I am right but it makes sense in my head.
windows 11 wallpaper randomization was fixed though. It was seriously lagging for me when it changed wallpapers.
So you got the premonition right

 

[SkyHighTrees]

Getting a C1 48" soon which will be plugged in to my PC . It will only be used for shows/movies/single player games as I have another 25" for FPS/works/web browsing

Any beginner tips ? Not sure if I should just put the TV on standby whenever I'm not using it or having it on with automated wallpaper change .

Calibrate it on Rtings or HDTV channel on youtube... I have that tv and it's amazing looking, perfect for gaming

 

[MastAndo]

My 55" LG C1 was delivered late last week, and so far, I'm pretty impressed. My concerns about ABL and dimness when used as a PC monitor are well, no longer a concern. My eyes are actually thanking me for white pages not being a blinding white (though dark mode makes those pretty infrequent). I bought a service remote too, but haven't felt the need to use it just yet. It's also a non-EVO panel, which is a bit of a bummer.

That said, there has been an acclimation period. After being a (Q)LED owner for years now, starting up a bright game like Forza Horizon 5 or MLB The Show 22 was a little jarring. The image looks nice but to my eyes, it's almost been like looking at a sunny day through a lightly tinted window. HDR Tone Mapping basically "fixes" that, but I but I've been avoiding it to see if the HGiG setting ends up working for me. As days pass though, every time I start up a game in Dolby Vision or HGiG in HDR, that tinted window effect seems to be wearing off. I can't say if it's a break-in period or my eyes adjusting, but it seems less and less generally dim each time (at least perceptually).

What I'm most enjoying is that the thing just works. All different modes and settings, it's just done what I've asked. Input lag is noticeably nonexistent in game mode even over LED's with low lag. While I was fortunate with my Hisense U8G (nice picture at low price point), it suffered in 120Hz modes and the TV would just randomly shut off when switching inputs or my Vizio soundbar would just stop working with it until a reboot. The LG just feels like a more premium set in that regard, which it is. The panel is also clean as hell - even the fortunately light DSE on the U8G was distracting at times in certain scenes.

I've still got tinkering to do, but so far, so good. I'll be sending the Hisense back this week.

 

[Excess]

Passed on the C2 and pulled the trigger on a 65" C1 for $1,700. So I went from a 55" B7 to this, and dear god I missed high refresh rates. I have it hooked up to the PC, so I was doing my 3080 a disservice.

Also, I got it all calibrated, and it is finally nice to have a Game Mode I can actually calibrate. The B7 did not AutoCal with Calman in Game Mode, so you were stuck with 2-point WB only.

 

[Lognor]

Welp. I'm about to return this piece of shit Sony A80J tv. I spent $3000 on it and in less than a month I've had multiple issues. Several times the screen has failed to turn on. I hit the power button and I can hear that the tv is on, but there is no picture. And I physically needed to unplug it and plug it in again for the screen to turn on.

And now today there is no wifi. Wifi is set to off. I set it to on. No networks show. I leave the setup menu and go back in and wifi is set to off again. I had to again unplug the tv and plug it in again for the wifi to work.

Completely ridiculous that the tv has so many issues. I'm returning this crap and gonna order the C1 most likely. Unless I just got a dud. But from googling it, it doesn't sound like it. It sounds like these are common problems with Sony Bravia tvs. WTF Sony? Get your shit together!!

 

[ParaSeoul]

Welp. I'm about to return this piece of shit Sony A80J tv. I spent $3000 on it and in less than a month I've had multiple issues. Several times the screen has failed to turn on. I hit the power button and I can hear that the tv is on, but there is no picture. And I physically needed to unplug it and plug it in again for the screen to turn on.

And now today there is no wifi. Wifi is set to off. I set it to on. No networks show. I leave the setup menu and go back in and wifi is set to off again. I had to again unplug the tv and plug it in again for the wifi to work.

Completely ridiculous that the tv has so many issues. I'm returning this crap and gonna order the C1 most likely. Unless I just got a dud. But from googling it, it doesn't sound like it. It sounds like these are common problems with Sony Bravia tvs. WTF Sony? Get your shit together!!

C1's are at a really good price rn so get on it fast