NeoGaf OLED owners thread

Does the 48" G5 only come with a stand in the UK?
I don't even see it on bestbuy's site, must not be out yet
I already see it on sale in smaller retailer in poland. Stand included.

50% more expensive than 48c5... 100% more expensive than 48c4... YIKES
 
just ordered the Samsung 77inch S90D anyone have any tips or tricks I should know about thank you
 
I have a 48" C4, which I've been using as my main monitor for about 7 months. It was a good purchase, especially considering that a monitor of the same quality is almost double the price, at least where I live.
 
WARNING to c4 c5 g4 and g5 future buyers.
Apparantly they all have dithering diagonal lines ON AT ALL TIMES to combat overshoot from black.
And it is visible from monitor viewing distance (not from normal distance).

So now S90F samsung is glossy and dont have this.
Anyone tried s90f already? in 48" size ?
 
WARNING to c4 c5 g4 and g5 future buyers.
Apparantly they all have dithering diagonal lines ON AT ALL TIMES to combat overshoot from black.
And it is visible from monitor viewing distance (not from normal distance).

So now S90F samsung is glossy and dont have this.
Anyone tried s90f already? in 48" size ?
The 48 inch won't be the qd oled panel.
 
WARNING to c4 c5 g4 and g5 future buyers.
Apparantly they all have dithering diagonal lines ON AT ALL TIMES to combat overshoot from black.
And it is visible from monitor viewing distance (not from normal distance).

So now S90F samsung is glossy and dont have this.
Anyone tried s90f already? in 48" size ?



Judging from this photo, it also has some kind of strong dithering applied. Looks similar to LG's solution.

Sad reality is, on WOLED you either have strong dithering or overshoot is going to look awful in some dynamic scenes. There were a lot of complaints about overshoot from CX-C3 owners.
LG's solution is by far the most effective yet but it sucks for folks buying these TVs as monitors.

BTW in EU, only 65" S90F is QD-OLED. You need to pay much more for either S95F or Sony Bravia 8 II if you want QD-OLED at 55" size in EU.
 
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I have a 65" Sony Bravia and now a 77" Sony Bravia. I can't believe how amazing the 77" is compared to the 65". Wild how I came from a 32" as a kid and thought that was a big screen.
 


Judging from this photo, it also has some kind of strong dithering applied. Looks similar to LG's solution.

Sad reality is, on WOLED you either have strong dithering or overshoot is going to look awful in some dynamic scenes. There were a lot of complaints about overshoot from CX-C3 owners.
LG's solution is by far the most effective yet but it sucks for folks buying these TVs as monitors.

BTW in EU, only 65" S90F is QD-OLED. You need to pay much more for either S95F or Sony Bravia 8 II if you want QD-OLED at 55" size in EU.

I don't even know what the overshoot is on my c1... so yeah.. new dithering is worse.
 
I don't even know what the overshoot is on my c1... so yeah.. new dithering is worse.

Don't know about C1 but it's been pretty bad on CX and C3. Also it seems like the more you push the brightness on these panels the more visible it becomes, maybe that's why LG opted for a stronger dithering on C4 since it's much brighter than C3.

 
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Don't know about C1 but it's been pretty bad on CX and C3. Also it seems like the more you push the brightness on these panels the more visible it becomes, maybe that's why LG opted for a stronger dithering on C4 since it's much brighter than C3.


can't say I noticed it but it's probably c1 thing too.
Time to end LG's reign and succumb to the glorious QD-OLED greatness of Samsung instead
maybe so. The dithering situation doesn't look very nice.
But qd oleds are not available in 42-48" sizes and are not glossy often and have lower life longevity than woleds.

The new LG G5 48" size is using new TANDEM RGM lg panel. it's supposedly 1300 nits which is great for 48" size (my is 800 peak).
But then again... the stupid diagonal dithering... man....
 
I still vow the Samsung S90c is the best Oled gaming TV on the market. Especially considering Value. I own this thing and the image quaility is just outrageous. Playing 4k 120fps with the HDR and ray tracing on this thing is just art in motion.
 
Time to end LG's reign and succumb to the glorious QD-OLED greatness of Samsung instead

We're slowly getting there. LG Electronics does a good job with software and updates but LG Display deserve their asses getting kicked for subpar QC and leaving things like tinting and chrominance overshoot unsolved for years.


I wish we could get LG TVs with Samsung panels.
 
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Could not care less about TV OSs, I dont know why people attach so much importance to it.

Image quality (broadly speaking, including processing, etc..) is all that matters for high end panels
Because it freaking sucks to navigate. Before the most recent update just picking an INPUT was a chore.
LG has everything right in front of you right where you need it. tucked away no fluff, filler or promotional CRAP EVERYWHERE.
I get it ... samsung have impressive panels... But at this point it's like saying I like ferrari's over lambos... how do you want your ride to feel, either way it's gonna be pretty awesome...
 
I just noticed that my Sony A90J now has a few dead pixels, not stuck pixels. Thankfully, I have an extended warranty with Best Buy. Has anyone gone through the process of getting a replacement set from them?
 


People are so concerned about OLED burn in when in reality other tvs can die faster then them (backlight failure etc.)
 
Update, looks like OLED is the most failure resistant tech in tvs:



Christian Bale Wow GIF by ProBit Global
 
Update, looks like OLED is the most failure resistant tech in tvs:


Three years of longevity testing is still nothing compared to my 2002 CRT TV, which has been used constantly (for PS2, Xbox, TV and DVD movies) and still works perfectly and has an amazing picture. The same can be said for my two plasma TVs from 2010 and 2013. For comparison, my 55-inch Sony Bravia X9005, which I bought in 2015, only worked for about five years before the backlight started showing burn-in.
 
Three years of longevity testing is still nothing compared to my 2002 CRT TV, which has been used constantly (for PS2, Xbox, TV and DVD movies) and still works perfectly and has an amazing picture. The same can be said for my two plasma TVs from 2010 and 2013. For comparison, my 55-inch Sony Bravia X9005, which I bought in 2015, only worked for about five years before the backlight started showing burn-in.
It's called accelerated testing. Did you leave your CRT TV on almost 24/7?
 
It's called accelerated testing. Did you leave your CRT TV on almost 24/7?
One year of 24/7 TV usage equals to 8,760 hours. My CRT doesn't have a timer, so I can't tell you how many hours it has been used for, but the X10 plasma TV in my parents' room worked 65,000 hours, and my own GT60 33,000 hours. I'm sure my CRT has been used for even longer than my parents X10. Also, these RTINGS accelerated tests don't take into account the fact that you can't accelerate time in a literal sense. Some parts will break after a certain amount of time, even if hardware wasn't used at all, and how you want to test that in a limited time? Has RTINGS invented a time machine?

This problem is particularly evident in graphics cards. An increasing number of 3DFX cards are stopping working these days, and not because they have been used for too long. A BIOS chip loses bits of information, which causes the BIOS to stop working, even if these cards werent used.

Taking all of this into account, I think my 2002 Philips CRT proved to be an extremely well-built display with insane longevity. As I mentioned, my Sony Bravia X9005B had a burned-in backlight after five years of normal use. I also remember my S8 phone. Its OLED display burned the entire virtual keyboard after two years of an average of two hours of usage per day. Modern displays, whether LCD or OLED, will never last as long as my CRT or my parents' plasma, I'm sure of it.
 
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I bought an LG 39GS95QE oled ultrawide monitor last week, and I'm pretty underwhelmed. Matte screen seems to rob the image of lots of contrast and the fullscreen brightness compared to my old dell s3220dgf is pretty dim.

I have a samsung 65 s95b oled and the picture seems so much brighter. It doesn't help that most of the settings are locked out in hdr mode. Sdr looks pretty good but I might return it. Is there any mini led monitors for £750 price range?
 
I bought an LG 39GS95QE oled ultrawide monitor last week, and I'm pretty underwhelmed. Matte screen seems to rob the image of lots of contrast and the fullscreen brightness compared to my old dell s3220dgf is pretty dim.

I have a samsung 65 s95b oled and the picture seems so much brighter. It doesn't help that most of the settings are locked out in hdr mode. Sdr looks pretty good but I might return it. Is there any mini led monitors for £750 price range?
TV OLEDs are over twice as bright as monitors.

I also had an HDR400 LCD monitor before, but my current QD-OLED monitor (gigabyte FO32U2) beats it in pretty much every respect except when displaying a 100% full-screen window. My OLED monitor has 250nits in 100% window, while previous LCD had 390 nits. In smaller windows and in real content my OLED monitor is literally twice as bright though. I tried to use sony megatron CRT shader (it requires 600 nits as minimum) on my previous HDR400 LCD screen and the picture was too dim. Now on QD-OLED monitor picture is finally bright enough. Even in SDR if I turn 1000 peak mode the picture is brighter compared to my previous HDR400 LCD.

It was a sunny day when I took this photo, yet the scene appeared bright to my eyes. I usually play games at night, so I don't find the brightness to be an issue, and what's more, I can make the picture even brighter if I play at 1800p or 1600p. That's actually my preference because I find a 32-inch monitor too big to be used from up close, and a 24-27-inch screen gives me a more comfortable field of view from up close. At lower resolutions, The ABL isn't as aggressive and the HDR1000 content isn't dimmed, even in brighter scenes.



20250902-153941.jpg
 
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TV OLEDs are over twice as bright as monitors.

I also had an HDR400 LCD monitor before, but my current QD-OLED monitor (gigabyte FO32U2) beats it in pretty much every respect except when displaying a 100% full-screen window. My OLED monitor has 250nits in 100% window, while previous LCD had 390 nits. In smaller windows and in real content my OLED monitor is literally twice as bright though. I tried to use sony megatron CRT shader (it requires 600 nits as minimum) on my previous HDR400 LCD screen and the picture was too dim. Now on QD-OLED monitor picture is finally bright enough. Even in SDR if I turn 1000 peak mode the picture is brighter compared to my previous HDR400 LCD.

It was a sunny day when I took this photo, yet the scene appeared bright to my eyes. I usually play games at night, so I don't find the brightness to be an issue, and what's more, I can make the picture even brighter if I play at 1800p or 1600p. That's actually my preference because I find a 32-inch monitor too big to be used from up close, and a 24-27-inch screen gives me a more comfortable field of view from up close. At lower resolutions, The ABL isn't as aggressive and the HDR1000 content isn't dimmed, even in brighter scenes.



20250902-153941.jpg
Yeah all good points. The monitor is by no means bad but after using my semi glossy qd oled tv for a couple of years the picture just seems pretty lifeless by comparison. I nearly bought the Samsung 49 inch super ultrawide and kinda wish I had now.

Though after using another couple of days I am growing to like it more especially at night.

I'm going to move house soon and am gonna sell my 65 inch oled tv, jvc projector and probably this lg oled monitor. Gonna buy a 98 inch tcl c7k 3000 nit mini led tv as my all in one screen 😂
 
Large screen LG G2 owners: Does anyone else have to push the power button twice in order to get your TV to actually turn on?

Any "fix" for this?

I actually recall reading somewhere that this is an issue on this model and there's a repair available from LG? Almost certain of it.

Edit:
 
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I actually recall reading somewhere that this is an issue on this model and there's a repair available from LG? Almost certain of it.

Edit:

Cool. Thanks.

Not sure it's worth the trouble of taking the monster off the wall to fix it, but my wife keeps talking about remodeling our entertainment room to build a bar, which would necessitate eventually moving the TV to another wall, if/when that happens, I'll make sure to replace the power board.
 
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