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Official "I need a new PC!!" 2009 Edition

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
DigitalSoul said:
I'm doing a budget upgrade and my CPU choices are Core2 Q8200, Q8400 or Q9400.
If can, I will go for the Q9400 otherwise I'm going to have to settle for the 8200 or 8400.
What are you upgrading from? What are you using them for?
Sleeker said:
Yeah i dont really know what kind of PSU it is, just that its 500W.
I'll look into it after it arrives, but I really like the case it comes with.
Ah ok, but that 500w is going to be most likely crap, buy a solid Seasonic or Corsair when you know what kind it is.
 
Crazymoogle said:
Jeezus, this Vertex is blazing. Left 4 Dead doesn't wait to load anymore. W7 seems to be writing a lot to my regular HDD for some reason (does indexing really hit it that much?) but the SSD just doesn't slow down for anything. Windows claims my memory is slowing down the system (by virtue of the lowest mark on the performance index) but that's unlikely to change given it's not an OC motherboard.

The real telling bit for the Vertex is that in the 24 second boot-time (from power-off), the moment the desktop appears, you can run apps without delay. No waiting for startup programs, antivirus, whatever. It almost needs a big "GO!" UI message. :lol

Now I see that a chinese company is selling PATA SSDs on eBay for the Thinkpad X40 series. I'm thinking about getting one of those for my X41 Tablet.



It might...but it really depends on the rails and PSU more than the total wattage.

Also, any particular reason why you are going for the 5400rpm green hard drive?

It was suggested? I looked again and saw other ones that seem to be better deals
 
Hazaro said:
You are good, video cards are really easy to upgrade anyway. Install a custom config for Crysis too :)


Find custom drivers made by a guy. There was some recent thing where he asked for some Paypal donations and Creative told him to fuck off and closed everything.

Anyway he made drivers that worked so ask around for that.

Get that mobo and it depends what PSU brand.

I'd upgrade the HDD to a 640GB or 1TB, faster and more space for not much more.
Secondly swap the case and PSU for something else if you can, the 500w that comes with it is probably no good.
Seasonic or Corsair would probably be the easiest to find in your area.



PSU is an Enermax noisetaker
 
Crazymoogle said:
Jeezus, this Vertex is blazing. Left 4 Dead doesn't wait to load anymore. W7 seems to be writing a lot to my regular HDD for some reason (does indexing really hit it that much?) but the SSD just doesn't slow down for anything. Windows claims my memory is slowing down the system (by virtue of the lowest mark on the performance index) but that's unlikely to change given it's not an OC motherboard.

The real telling bit for the Vertex is that in the 24 second boot-time (from power-off), the moment the desktop appears, you can run apps without delay. No waiting for startup programs, antivirus, whatever. It almost needs a big "GO!" UI message. :lol



Thanks for the update. Did you get the 30gb or the 60gb? Also do you feel space will become an issue quickly? I had 2gb left on my old 74gb raptor after all the games, apps, and vista.

edit: also did it ship with the latest firmware, and did u have to put your SATA controller into any weird modes, like legacy ide or anything?
 
Hazaro said:
What are you upgrading from? What are you using them for?

I'm upgrading from a Pentium 4 *_*.

I use my PC for work(graphic artist), moderate gaming, internet, music etc. Plus I'm someone that also runs multiple applications at once.
 

Metalic Sand

who is Emo-Beas?
So ive been trying overclocks alot lately on my GPU and Running OCCT and it seems the program is just horrible and gives errors no matter what. Never experienced any problems myself but any form of OC on my GPU and OCCT gives errors. :lol

Anyone know of a REAL stress test prog? OCCT is garbage.


Ive had some pretty decent gains from 3D mark vantage when Oced. about 300+ score.
 
BigJonsson said:
It was suggested? I looked again and saw other ones that seem to be better deals

It's a fine drive - the WD line are the brand to go with right now if you're nervous about hard drives - but the green 1TB actually spins slower (hence "green" in energy usage) so it's more popular as a media storage drive.

If you want speed: WD 1TB Caviar Black $135
If you want quiet + a bit of speed: WD 640GB SE16 $90

It's not unusual to see sales for those though, if you wait.


SuperEnemyCrab said:
Thanks for the update. Did you get the 30gb or the 60gb? Also do you feel space will become an issue quickly? I had 2gb left on my old 74gb raptor after all the games, apps, and vista.

edit: also did it ship with the latest firmware, and did u have to put your SATA controller into any weird modes, like legacy ide or anything?

The 120GB. W7RC install took around 10GB, and I'm at 37GB right now with various program installs (including TF2/L4D/Crysis). All of my media (itunes, etc) is offloaded to the SE16. It's a given that space could become an issue if I was storing media on it, but now I think I'll comfortably max out around 50% general usage (good, as the best way to keep up performance is to be around 50-75% capacity max).

It shipped with the latest firmware (it's in the drive name in the BIOS, clear as day). Absolutely no problems for me at all, but I did notice my BIOS was already set to ATA and not AHCI anyway...(maybe I should doublecheck that.) There was already reports it runs fine on my system though, which uses ICH9R I believe.
 

Median

Member
Hey guys, does anyone have a good suggestion for a relatively inexpensive motherboard? Right now I'm looking for a buddy at the Asus P5Q, but he wants to cut costs a little bit and I'm not terribly familiar with motherboards. He's looking at a system with a Radeon 4770 and a Q8400, other than that he's not looking for anything particularly fancy. Cheers.
 

Tendo

Member
Ok guys, i'm installing my 260 onto this mobo. It is a very, very tight fit. When I put the screws back in it is going to force the card a bit and put pressure onto the "smaller" pin in the back of the card. I've never installed something like this before and I'm terrified of breaking something. I got cables everwhere. Help gaf :(
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
DigitalSoul said:
I'm upgrading from a Pentium 4 *_*.

I use my PC for work(graphic artist), moderate gaming, internet, music etc. Plus I'm someone that also runs multiple applications at once.
I'd go for i7 since you are building a new rig, you'd get much more out of it for your kind of work.
Sleeker said:
I'd go for the HX-620w instead since it's only a little more. Reason is that it is manufactured by Seasonic instead of CWT. Both are great, plus the 620w is modular.

http://www.centrecom.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=74&noscript=1&products_id=33848
Median said:
Hey guys, does anyone have a good suggestion for a relatively inexpensive motherboard? Right now I'm looking for a buddy at the Asus P5Q, but he wants to cut costs a little bit and I'm not terribly familiar with motherboards. He's looking at a system with a Radeon 4770 and a Q8400, other than that he's not looking for anything particularly fancy. Cheers.
Any new 775 is going to be around that price, I picked up used older versions of Gigabyte's model for around $50 for two builds I did.

Tendo said:
Ok guys, i'm installing my 260 onto this mobo. It is a very, very tight fit. When I put the screws back in it is going to force the card a bit and put pressure onto the "smaller" pin in the back of the card. I've never installed something like this before and I'm terrified of breaking something. I got cables everwhere. Help gaf :(
What pins? The screws on the PCI brackets on the case?
The 6 motherboard pins?

And yes there will be little room for it, but it will fit.
 

Tendo

Member
Hazaro said:
I'd go for the HX-620w instead since it's only a little more. Reason is that it is manufactured by Seasonic instead of CWT. Both are great, plus the 620w is modular.

http://www.centrecom.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=74&noscript=1&products_id=33848

Any new 775 is going to be around that price, I picked up used older versions of Gigabyte's model for around $50 for two builds I did.


What pins? The screws on the PCI brackets on the case?
The 6 motherboard pins?

And yes there will be little room for it, but it will fit.

Yeah, the ones that bracket the card to the case. Ok, my bigger problem now is that the supplied power cable is 4 inches long and doesnt reach the card :(
 

Tendo

Member
Nevermind. I'm an idiot. reconnecting everything now. Prepare for explosion!

EDIT: Connected everything, no signal going out to my monitor :( Everything else is powering up fine it seems, just no signal out
 
Tendo said:
Yeah, the ones that bracket the card to the case. Ok, my bigger problem now is that the supplied power cable is 4 inches long and doesnt reach the card :(


reminds me of when I got a 7800 GS and it just squeaked into my case

I hate nvidia for that
 

Grayman

Member
BigJonsson said:
reminds me of when I got a 7800 GS and it just squeaked into my case

I hate nvidia for that
At least it just squeaked in, I had to take out the neat carriage my case had for harddrives and put the harddrive in the 5inch bays to put a GTX260 in.
 

Tendo

Member
threw the old card in, it gets power and boots. i'm using the original power cable that came with the 8800 to power it.

i'll try to explain the 260 and how i have it powered. so it requires to 6 pin power connectors. i'm using the one that came with my 8800 that runs from the psu to the card. i'm also using this thing that came with the new 260. it has a 6 pin on one end, and 2 3 prong ends, which i plugged into 2 empty 4 prong power cables coming from the psu. those empty connectors all come from the same cable...where am i going wrong here?

EDIT: Should i uninstall the drivers for the 8800 first? is that maybe the issue?
 

Metalic Sand

who is Emo-Beas?
When installing BIOs updates for MB's do you just install the latest one and your good? Or do you need to install them in order from oldest to newest of ones you dont have?

Not entirely sure on this thanks.
 

scorcho

testicles on a cold fall morning
Metalic Sand said:
When installing BIOs updates for MB's do you just install the latest one and your good? Or do you need to install them in order from oldest to newest of ones you dont have?

Not entirely sure on this thanks.
Latest one is just fine, and unless it fixes a problem you're experiencing it really isn't necessary.
 

Tendo

Member
oh goddammit :(
Ok so now my card to power up. When I try to boot up a game red dots appear on screen and my pc reboots. Not enough power?
 

Metalic Sand

who is Emo-Beas?
scorcho said:
Latest one is just fine, and unless it fixes a problem you're experiencing it really isn't necessary.

There has been like 5 updates so i figured i should. Went ahead and did it. latest update said it improves overclocking stability so that seemed like a good reason too.
 
Alright, so here's the deal. I'm going to be building a new computer here in a few weeks. I'm not really hip to buying a new HDD. I've got a 250GB HDD that I bought in November 2005 and I'll never fill up. It's an IDE drive. My DVD-RW is also an IDE drive. I know most motherboards are phasing out IDE and only have one port now. I'll end up buying a new SATA DVD-RW. I really don't want to buy a new HDD when mine is perfectly fine.

With that being said, my HDD's interface is Ultra ATA-133. Will motherboards that ONLY support ATA-133 be able to recognize it?
 

Lime

Member
brain_stew said:
I really can't agree with this tbh. Whilst the X3 720 offers great bang for buck, if you've got the money for an i7 rig then you should really go for it, its leaps and bounds above everything else.

It was more by following the logic in an earlier post:

TheExodu5 said:
I might agree with Cajun here. You'd be better off going $160 cheaper on the processor, and putting that extra money towards a higher end video card. The video card is always the best bang-for-buck performance increase when it comes to gaming.
 

Leonsito

Member
Hi guys, I'm looking to make my PC a bit more silent, since I have it in my bedroom and my GF always tells me that the computer makes too much noise :D

I've identified the PSU and the CPU as the main problem here, currently I have:
  • C2D E6600 with the stock cooler
  • Hiper HPU-4M730 Semi-Modular Quad-SLI - 730W

I'm looking to this cooler for the CPU: Noctua NH-U12P

And for the PSU I'm not sure yet, the one i have now makes too much noise, both from the 8cm fan and from some electrical noise (maybe is faulty), what is a good 500W<->600W silent PSU ? Modular if possible.
 

mAcOdIn

Member
AnEternalEnigma said:
Alright, so here's the deal. I'm going to be building a new computer here in a few weeks. I'm not really hip to buying a new HDD. I've got a 250GB HDD that I bought in November 2005 and I'll never fill up. It's an IDE drive. My DVD-RW is also an IDE drive. I know most motherboards are phasing out IDE and only have one port now. I'll end up buying a new SATA DVD-RW. I really don't want to buy a new HDD when mine is perfectly fine.

With that being said, my HDD's interface is Ultra ATA-133. Will motherboards that ONLY support ATA-133 be able to recognize it?
I thought ATA-133 and "Ultra" ATA -133 are the same thing just marketing jargon. Anyways, if you have an old hard drive I fail to see how any modern motherboard would not be up to the task.

That said, I would go the opposite route and buy a new Sata hard drive anyways and leave the dvd drive as the lone IDE device. If you're changing the motherboard you're going to have to reformat either way, since all hard drives fail I'd rather start with a new one and the performance of hard drives has steadily increased over the years and you're going to be using the HD way more than the DVD drive. You can get a 640GB drive for around 75 US dollars now.

Once you get all that space you might start looking at how you did things. Perhaps you would start ripping the CD images of all your games to the hard drive and use and mount them as virtual drives so you don't have to hunt for cds. Maybe you'll buy a tv tuner card and use your computer as a dvr and start recording tv shows. Maybe you'd go back and re-rip all your music at a higher bitrate. If you wanted to try linux you could give it a partition and try linux. Having more space opens up a lot of stuff for me.

Later on down the line if you wanted to then use your old 250GB drive as an internal backup you could buy an IDE to SATA adapter for around 35 US dollars.
I reformat often so I have my music and videos mirrored on my second drive so that when I format I can just copy them right back instead of re-ripping everything.

That's my opinion.
 
Leonsito said:
Hi guys, I'm looking to make my PC a bit more silent, since I have it in my bedroom and my GF always tells me that the computer makes too much noise :D

I've identified the PSU and the CPU as the main problem here, currently I have:
  • C2D E6600 with the stock cooler
  • Hiper HPU-4M730 Semi-Modular Quad-SLI - 730W

I'm looking to this cooler for the CPU: Noctua NH-U12P

And for the PSU I'm not sure yet, the one i have now makes too much noise, both from the 8cm fan and from some electrical noise (maybe is faulty), what is a good 500W<->600W silent PSU ? Modular if possible.

I would recommend the Corsair HX520 or HX620 as they are pretty silent and nicely priced.
I'm using a Enermax modu82+ 625W and that doesn't make a peep and was higly rated on silent pc review.
These two are both modular, but the Enermax was more costly than the Corsair.
 

Leonsito

Member
Romance Pie said:
I would recommend the Corsair HX520 or HX620 as they are pretty silent and nicely priced.
I'm using a Enermax modu82+ 625W and that doesn't make a peep and was higly rated on silent pc review.
These two are both modular, but the Enermax was more costly than the Corsair.

Nice, the HX520 looks interesting:

outputside.jpg


22dba @ 300W is great, I think I will go for this one ^_^

Thank you, sir.
 
AnEternalEnigma said:
Alright, so here's the deal. I'm going to be building a new computer here in a few weeks. I'm not really hip to buying a new HDD. I've got a 250GB HDD that I bought in November 2005 and I'll never fill up. It's an IDE drive. My DVD-RW is also an IDE drive. I know most motherboards are phasing out IDE and only have one port now. I'll end up buying a new SATA DVD-RW. I really don't want to buy a new HDD when mine is perfectly fine.

With that being said, my HDD's interface is Ultra ATA-133. Will motherboards that ONLY support ATA-133 be able to recognize it?

Its really not. Old IDE HDDs are dog slow compared to a modern SATA II drive, the difference is night and day. Windows, programs and game installs alone will very sharply take up that 250GB drives so you'll rue not replacing it. A 640GB WD Caviar can be had for peanuts and is supremely fast compared to that old drive of yours.
 

Minsc

Gold Member
brain_stew said:
Its really not. Old IDE HDDs are dog slow compared to a modern SATA II drive, the difference is night and day. Windows, programs and game installs alone will very sharply take up that 250GB drives so you'll rue not replacing it. A 640GB WD Caviar can be had for peanuts and is supremely fast compared to that old drive of yours.

Not to mention all HDDs fail sooner or later. A 4 year old drive is just that much closer to dying than a 4 month old drive. Just make sure you have a nice backup routine in place and you should be fine... because having a new system go down because of an old part kinda sucks.

Edit: I should also point out that if you do plan on replacing your HDD later, and need to reinstall windows to do so, all your games will lose an activation, so that may leave you with just a single activation for games that only come with three, on a new machine. Or even 0 installations left if it was already installed on your current machine, which sucks.
 

Sleeker

Member
Minsc said:
Edit: I should also point out that if you do plan on replacing your HDD later, and need to reinstall windows to do so, all your games will lose an activation, so that may leave you with just a single activation for games that only come with three, on a new machine.

that sucks so badly
 
Hi, I know nothing about computers and am looking for a new laptop. Basically what I'm searching for is something that is decent, cheap, and can play World of Warcraft well. My budget is around 600 dollars or so. Any suggestions? I'm currently rocking a Dell laptop at the moment, but a friend of mine said I should look elsewhere
 

dazzgc

Banned
just wanted to say i bought a gtx 285 yesterday and that its a fantastic card. fixed all my gripes i had with my 4870x2. runs quieter, cooler, and the power difference, from what i can notice anyway, is not a lot.
 

Burger

Member
The PC I built a few weeks ago has a crippled leg.

I put x2 500g Seagate 7200.12 drives in there, and the one containing my operating system is failing. SMART Raw Read Errors are climbing, as well as mechanical clicking sounds.

Windows 7's backup feature saved everything on the drive, I was surprised how easy it was to use (as easy as Apples Time Machine at least).

Hopefully I can get a fast turnaround on a RMA.
 
All prices in Canadian dollars


SAMSUNG 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model SH-S223Q - OEM $31.99

HEC 6C28BBX585 Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 585W Power Supply - Retail $64.99

Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM $99.99

BFG Tech BFGEGTX260896OCE GeForce GTX 260 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail $203.99

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-8500CL5D-4GBPK - Retail $68.49

GIGABYTE GA-EP43-UD3L LGA 775 Intel P43 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail $109.99

Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80570E8400 - Retail $202.99

Subtotal: $782.43



I don't plan on overclocking or adding more hard drives in the future

Anything I can save money on or need to change?
 
What level of quality is G.Skill RAM at? I was looking at them, but got scared off due to every single manufacturer response on NewEgg from them being typed by somebody with the spelling ability of a 2-year-old.
 
AnEternalEnigma said:
What level of quality is G.Skill RAM at? I was looking at them, but got scared off due to every single manufacturer response on NewEgg from them being typed by somebody with the spelling ability of a 2-year-old.


No idea, but they come up as reccomended by newegg or whatever

Kingston is pretty much the same price
 
BigJonsson said:
All prices in Canadian dollars


SAMSUNG 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model SH-S223Q - OEM $31.99

HEC 6C28BBX585 Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 585W Power Supply - Retail $64.99

Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM $99.99

BFG Tech BFGEGTX260896OCE GeForce GTX 260 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail $203.99

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-8500CL5D-4GBPK - Retail $68.49

GIGABYTE GA-EP43-UD3L LGA 775 Intel P43 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail $109.99

Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80570E8400 - Retail $202.99

Subtotal: $782.43



I don't plan on overclocking or adding more hard drives in the future

Anything I can save money on or need to change?

Go x3 720 instead. Three cores is the current sweet spot for games.

Change that PSU and case. Any PSU that is thrown in with a $65 case and yet still claims 585w is going to be a death trap. Don't be surprised to see it explode and take the rest of your components with it.

G. Skill RAM is excellent btw.
 

Phatcorns

Member
Hey guys, my 500gb sata drive got a "SMART status bad backup and replace" error. I'm wondering if any of you know what the deal is behind this. From google, it looks like drive failure is imminent, but I'm not sure. Anyway, I'm using Windows 7 and the error occurred right after I got my new firewire card and started capturing some video to the drive.

And if I have to replace the drive, anyone know of super cheap ones or even if I should move to a solid state drive since I'm tired of buying new drives. I bought this one in 2007, that's kind of recent!
 
brain_stew said:
Go x3 720 instead. Three cores is the current sweet spot for games.

Change that PSU and case. Any PSU that is thrown in with a $65 case and yet still claims 585w is going to be a death trap. Don't be surprised to see it explode and take the rest of your components with it.

G. Skill RAM is excellent btw.


Fuck AMD :)

And yea, I just threw that case on there for the hell of it

Still have to talk to my PC selling uncle to see what i can get :p
 
BigJonsson said:
Fuck AMD :)

And yea, I just threw that case on there for the hell of it

Still have to talk to my PC selling uncle to see what i can get :p

What!? What does that even mean!?

I find it grating giving advice to people with such backwards viewpoints.
 

Metalic Sand

who is Emo-Beas?
BigJonsson said:
Fuck Saving Money :)

And yea, I just threw that case on there for the hell of it

Still have to talk to my PC selling uncle to see what i can get :p

I fixed that there for you.

The X3 BE is a much better value than the 8400. Your loss though :lol
 

Ysiadmihi

Banned
:lol @ manufacturer fanboyism.

Got a question about RAID. I've never done this and I wanted to try it with some old IDE HDDs just for the hell of it (meaning I don't really mind if there is no major benefit, I just want to see if I can do it). Is it even possible to do it with IDE drives and what are the requirements for doing so?
 

Grayman

Member
So is there a deal with crysis maximum edition? Amazon and Newegg don't have records of it in Canada, Steam has not lowered prices, and futureshop has it at 54.99 which seems high for a combo pack of an old and older game.
 
BigJonsson said:
I prefer Intel

What's to prefer? They both do EXACTLY the same job, have the exact same instruction set and since its a CPU there's no driver issues to speak of. If you were arguing on moral grounds in order to stay away from Intel I could sort of understand, what with the recent European court hearing proving that they were persuing illegal business practices but it seems to me that you are making this decision for no other reason than blind and stupid brand loyalty. Consumers like yourself make us all suffer.

My point still stands that for your budget, you will get better performance, upgrade options and better benefit from future developments by going with a X3 720 from AMD. Its upto whther you follow that advice but if you ignore it for no logical reason, don't expect me not to call you on it.
 
brain_stew said:
What's to prefer? They both do EXACTLY the same job, have the exact same instruction set and since its a CPU there's no driver issues to speak of. If you were arguing on moral grounds in order to stay away from Intel I could sort of understand, what with the recent European court hearing proving that they were persuing illegal business practices but it seems to me that you are making this decision for no other reason than blind and stupid brand loyalty. Consumers like yourself make us all suffer.

My point still stands that for your budget, you will get better performance, upgrade options and better benefit from future developments by going with a X3 720 from AMD. Its upto whther you follow that advice but if you ignore it for no logical reason, don't expect me not to call you on it.


There is a logical reason, I go with what I know always works which is why I'm sticking with Intel and BFG/Nvidia
 
BigJonsson said:
There is a logical reason, I go with what I know always works which is why I'm sticking with Intel and BFG/Nvidia

Well why post asking for advice in this thread at all then? Just go with what you know works and don't waste the time of others when you have no intention of even ackowledging what they say. You asked for the opinion of others on a proposed hardware build, I'm sorry for giving one.

I personally know that "AMD" processors "work". There's also accounts from thousands of others infinitely more qualified than me on the internet that back up that assertion. You don't need personal experience with hardware components to decide whther they are fit for purpose, others ahve already done that for you.
 
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