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Official "I need a new PC!!" 2009 Edition

Celcius

°Temp. member
I'd definitely pick the q9550 over the e6750.

e6750 = 2.66ghz, 4mb L2 cache, dual-core, and 65nm
q9550 = 2.83ghz, 12mb L2 cache, quad-core, and 45nm

Even at stock it runs at a faster clock speed, and since its 45nm it will overclock much better than the old 65nm cpu (expect 3.9-4ghz on air cooling). Also, quad-core processors are becoming more and more fully utilized so the extra 2 cores will definitely make a difference. Also, all that extra cache won't hurt either :)

Check out this cpu comparison: http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3127&p=1
 
vocelcius said:
I'd definitely pick the q9550 over the e6750.

e6750 = 2.66ghz, 4mb L2 cache, dual-core, and 65nm
q9550 = 2.83ghz, 12mb L2 cache, quad-core, and 45nm

Even at stock it runs at a faster clock speed, and since its 45nm it will overclock much better than the old 65nm cpu (expect 3.9-4ghz on air cooling). Also, quad-core processors are becoming more and more fully utilized so the extra 2 cores will definitely make a difference. Also, all that extra cache won't hurt either :)

Check out this cpu comparison: http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3127&p=1

Is it worth upgrading my e6750 now though or should I wait? Would the q9550 be closest to the qx6850 in that chart you posted?
 
Well, I decided to upgrade the processor in my HP Pavillion DV3510nr (had a 7350 2.0Ghz to a P8600 2.4Ghz), so I could run X64 virtual machines (mostly Server 2008). But in the process, because of the computer's form factor, I ended up disconnecting random things like my finger print sensor, keyboard, audio, etc. I managed to get everything working but my dumb self should've covered my LED LCD screen, as it's scratch now. I'm probably going to send it back to HP to have them replace it (accidental damage warranty).

But it's always nice to fiddle with the guts of a computer (laptop, server or desktop). It was definitely more challenging than dissembling a 15 and 17-inch laptop.
 
fresquito said:
I need a new graphic card under 100€

I have an AMD dual core at 2.4
4GB RAM
Windows XP

Any recomendation? Thank you in advance.


I keep reading great things about the 4770, which is why I'm getting one. It's a budget card but uses very low power consumption, much less heat, and is easily overclockable and as fast as the 4850 versions which run hot and use more power.

I just ordered this one! and figured it the best deal for me as it has integrated HDMI, so I can connect it to my TV, plus DVI and VGA, for connecting to my Desktop Monitor. This one also has the Arctic Cooling Accelero L7 Design which should result in great OC performance.


I'll probably look for 1 stick of 4GB ram @ either 667 or 800 mhz then upgrade to 16gb later on, or maybe not depending on the price.

looks like the 2gb sticks of 667 are going to be my best bet right now as they are about $30 per stick and my system came with one already.
 
Sorry for the double post, and I know I'm talking to myself right now but this is a good a place as any to document my system.

Here is my new budget gaming system and the cost involved.

1x Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H AMD785G Socket AM2+ MotherBoard
1x AMD Athlon II X2 240 2.8Ghz AM3 CPU & Fan
4x ULTRA 2048MB PC5400 DDR2 667MHZ (8GB Total)
1x WD Caviar 500GB Serial ATA HD 7200/16MB/SATA-3G
1x SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 4770/512MB/128-bit/GDDR5/HDMI/VGA/DVI/HDCP Ready/Arctic Cooled
1x Power Up Black ATX Mid-T Case w/450w & Clear Side & Fan
1x Lite-On DVDRW LH-20A1H/LiteScribe (Free)
1x Windows 7 Ultimate Signature Edition (Free/Priceless)

Total Cost: $520 (includes Tax + S&H)

If I half the ram at 4gb I can bring the cost down to $460
 

SapientWolf

Trucker Sexologist
MidgarBlowedUp said:
Sorry for the double post, and I know I'm talking to myself right now but this is a good a place as any to document my system.

Here is my new budget gaming system and the cost involved.

1x Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H AMD785G Socket AM2+ MotherBoard
1x AMD Athlon II X2 240 2.8Ghz AM3 CPU & Fan
4x ULTRA 2048MB PC5400 DDR2 667MHZ (8GB Total)
1x WD Caviar 500GB Serial ATA HD 7200/16MB/SATA-3G
1x SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 4770/512MB/128-bit/GDDR5/HDMI/VGA/DVI/HDCP Ready/Arctic Cooled
1x Power Up Black ATX Mid-T Case w/450w & Clear Side & Fan
1x Lite-On DVDRW LH-20A1H/LiteScribe (Free)
1x Windows 7 Ultimate Signature Edition (Free/Priceless)

Total Cost: $520 (includes Tax + S&H)

If I half the ram at 4gb I can bring the cost down to $460
I would bring the RAM down and use the difference to buy a better PSU.
 
AshMcCool said:
And why not going for DDR3-RAM?

Cost is double. Plus, the system came with 2gb of DDR2.
Also, this mobo does not support DDR3.
It does support DDR2 1200

SapientWolf said:
I would bring the RAM down and use the difference to buy a better PSU.

PSU I have should be fine, which is the reason I went with the HD4770 graphics card. The 4650 draws around 60 watts and the 4770 shouldn't draw more than 80 watts.


Thanks for the suggestions though, nothing wrong with constructive criticism.
I just got word that this mobos integrated 4200 is supposed to work with the new 5 series cards, but no word yet on which ones exactly. I figure a year down the road I may upgrade all the ram to DDR2 1200 and update the PSU. (I've got a nice Rosewill 550 sitting in my old comp I could pull if need be so, if everyone truly thinks I need a better PSU I could swap this one out for it)
 
MidgarBlowedUp said:
Cost is double. Plus, the system came with 2gb of DDR2.
Also, this mobo does not support DDR3.
It does support DDR2 1200



PSU I have should be fine, which is the reason I went with the HD4770 graphics card. The 4650 draws around 60 watts and the 4770 shouldn't draw more than 80 watts.


Thanks for the suggestions though, nothing wrong with constructive criticism.
I just got word that this mobos integrated 4200 is supposed to work with the new 5 series cards, but no word yet on which ones exactly. I figure a year down the road I may upgrade all the ram to DDR2 1200 and update the PSU. (I've got a nice Rosewill 550 sitting in my old comp I could pull if need be so, if everyone truly thinks I need a better PSU I could swap this one out for it)

That would be the most pointless upgrade you could ever do. No real world performance gains from that.

Swap the PSUs around the one that case comes may very well blow up with a real GPU running off it. ince you're junking the included PSU, might as well get a different case while you're at it.
 

Minsc

Gold Member
I have yet to find a benchmark that shows RAM plays any part in your fps (spare simply having too little). $20 RAM vs $600 RAM, no significant difference in fps.
 
brain_stew said:
That would be the most pointless upgrade you could ever do. No real world performance gains from that.

Good, then that saves me money, trouble, and aggravation.


brain_stew said:
Swap the PSUs around the one that case comes may very well blow up with a real GPU running off it. ince you're junking the included PSU, might as well get a different case while you're at it.

So let me ask you this, will an Antec earthwatts EA380 380W PSU run my system?
It's $40 at amazon with free shipping. I'm pretty much getting it free after I sell my old graphics card and PSU on ebay.
 
Minsc said:
I have yet to find a benchmark that shows RAM plays any part in your fps (spare simply having too little). $20 RAM vs $600 RAM, no significant difference in fps.
I saw some benchmarks a while back (on Tom's Hardware, I think) that compared the performance of different types of RAM. They found that lower latency RAM was more important than fast RAM for most things, but I think the difference in gaming performance was pretty trivial (like 1-2%).
 
MidgarBlowedUp said:
Good, then that saves me money, trouble, and aggravation.




So let me ask you this, will an Antec earthwatts EA380 380W PSU run my system?
It's $40 at amazon with free shipping. I'm pretty much getting it free after I sell my old graphics card and PSU on ebay.

Comfortably, and its very efficient to boot, that means lower electricity bills!
 
Hazaro said:

Good it's on order.

Hazaro said:
Also this card is a pretty good upgrade to what you have.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150436

I agree that card sounds badass and is damn cheap but, I'll stick with my 4770 for right now and may upgrade to the 48xx once the 5 series come out and the 48xx's get really cheap. Also, with the HDMI/DVI/and VGA integrated outs, plus the lower power consumption and good OC ability, it's more than enough for me right now. I'm not really looking to do that much gaming on this setup as I have a PS3/360 but, I am starting a game programming degree soon and will be using Maya, Unity, Photoshop, etc.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
MidgarBlowedUp said:
Good it's on order.



I agree that card sounds badass and is damn cheap but, I'll stick with my 4770 for right now and may upgrade to the 48xx once the 5 series come out and the 48xx's get really cheap. Also, with the HDMI/DVI/and VGA integrated outs, plus the lower power consumption and good OC ability, it's more than enough for me right now. I'm not really looking to do that much gaming on this setup as I have a PS3/360 but, I am starting a game programming degree soon and will be using Maya, Unity, Photoshop, etc.
5770 then?
 
Hazaro said:
5770 then?

I'm getting laid off soon so money is tight but, yeah that would be cool as it should hybrid crossfire with my on-board GPU too.

But I'm pretty broke as it is right now and pretty much what I have is what I've got until I sell more junk of mine on Ebay.
 
brain_stew said:
Comfortably, and its very efficient to boot, that means lower electricity bills!

Thanks for the help. I'm pretty confident in my system now.

For about $500 I have a decent gaming system with multiple video output configurations that should also work well for running a few memory intensive applications at once. This isn't a top of the line gaming pc and it isn't exactly meant to be that, just something more up to date than my 2.8ghz celeron 512mb system that can get me through the next 2 years of school. I know I could have done a better job by doing more research and asking more questions and being more patient but, I'm lazy.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
Is it worth upgrading my e6750 now though or should I wait? Would the q9550 be closest to the qx6850 in that chart you posted?
Oh, if you already have an e6750 then instead of buying a q9550 I'd recommend just overclocking your current cpu. This will run games just fine. If you don't want to get involved in overclocking then I'd say save your money for something like Core i7.

However, if you are an overclocker, sell that e6750 and get the 9550. :D
 
MidgarBlowedUp said:
Thanks for the help. I'm pretty confident in my system now.

For about $500 I have a decent gaming system with multiple video output configurations that should also work well for running a few memory intensive applications at once. This isn't a top of the line gaming pc and it isn't exactly meant to be that, just something more up to date than my 2.8ghz celeron 512mb system that can get me through the next 2 years of school. I know I could have done a better job by doing more research and asking more questions and being more patient but, I'm lazy.

dont be lazy then. dig, explore, and save.
 
MidgarBlowedUp said:
Thanks for the help. I'm pretty confident in my system now.

For about $500 I have a decent gaming system with multiple video output configurations that should also work well for running a few memory intensive applications at once. This isn't a top of the line gaming pc and it isn't exactly meant to be that, just something more up to date than my 2.8ghz celeron 512mb system that can get me through the next 2 years of school. I know I could have done a better job by doing more research and asking more questions and being more patient but, I'm lazy.

Before you go ahead and order, have you not considered one of the new Athlon X4s?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...103706&cm_re=athlon_x4-_-19-103-706-_-Product

Considering the work you're doing those two extra cores will get some good use, so it may well be worth the $40 premium if you can manage it. At 2.6ghz dual/single threaded performance should be decent enough, especially with a mild OC to 3ghz which will be a piece of cake and the stock cooling will manage just fine.

Stop worrying about using your integrated graphics in some CrossfireX mode, they'll never provide a worthwile speed bump.
 
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
Is it worth upgrading my e6750 now though or should I wait? Would the q9550 be closest to the qx6850 in that chart you posted?

Pointless upgrade imo especially since Q9550s are horribly overpriced these days.

You'll only ever notice any difference in applications that use more than two threads. Just get a $20 cooler and OC that proessor to ~3.6ghz and get another year or two out of it, at which point you can upgrade to Sandy Bridge or get a Core i5/i7 system (a worthwile upgrade) on the cheap.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...24&cm_re=rosewill_92mm-_-35-200-024-_-Product

Heck that's only $14 atm, its a no brainer, a ~40% performance increase for $14 and a couple of hours work, can't be bad.

Games wise, the quad will prove a major benefit in GTA4, ARMA2, Ghostbusters and a not a great deal else off the top of my head. You'll still be GPU bottlenecked with an OCed Core 2 in most games once you crank the settings, most games still run fine with the good old E6600, not surprising really since it utterly decimates Xenon.
 
Ok, so I'm trying to overclock but having problems. I have it to manual and the ratio is 1:1 and I just increased it from 1333 to 1400 and it doesn't seem to like it at all... when I save and exit it says that something like failed to boot press f1 to continue and when I go into windows cpu-z says it's still 1333 and a 2.66ghz processor. One time after saving settings it didn't do anything but a really long single beep and had to turn it off and on to post. Is there something I'm doing wrong that it doesn't seem to be working?
 
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
Ok, so I'm trying to overclock but having problems. I have it to manual and the ratio is 1:1 and I just increased it from 1333 to 1400 and it doesn't seem to like it at all... when I save and exit it says that something like failed to boot press f1 to continue and when I go into windows cpu-z says it's still 1333 and a 2.66ghz processor. One time after saving settings it didn't do anything but a really long single beep and had to turn it off and on to post. Is there something I'm doing wrong that it doesn't seem to be working?


Bump up your FSB voltage one notch.

What voltage is your CPU getting? Make sure its not on auto, and set it a couple of notches above its stock voltage.

Use some slack memory timings, you can tighten them up later if need be, say 5-5-5-18.

Disable EIST and C1E.

Set your PCI-e frequency to 100mhz.
 
brain_stew said:
Bump up your FSB voltage one notch.

What voltage is your CPU getting? Make sure its not on auto, and set it a couple of notches above its stock voltage.

Use some slack memory timings, you can tighten them up later if need be, say 5-5-5-18.

Disable EIST and C1E.

Set your PCI-e frequency to 100mhz.

How do you tell timing? All I can find is ratios, of which I have 1:1, 5:4, 3:2, and sync mode. It seems the voltage for my cpu is on auto so what should I start at? C1E and EIST are both disabled.
 
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
How do you tell timing? All I can find is ratios, of which I have 1:1, 5:4, 3:2, and sync mode. It seems the voltage for my cpu is on auto so what should I start at? C1E and EIST are both disabled.

You might have to go into some advanced mode, but there'll be a way to set your RAM timings, have a look in your motherboard manual/search online.

Leave the FSB:RAM ratio at 1:1, you can change it later.

Auto is a big no-no. Your BIOS should list your chips "VID", go a few notches above this to start with. 65nm Core 2s can take quite a lot of voltage but be sure to stay below 1.5V.
 
brain_stew said:
You might have to go into some advanced mode, but there'll be a way to set your RAM timings, have a look in your motherboard manual/search online.

Leave the FSB:RAM ratio at 1:1, you can change it later.

Auto is a big no-no. Your BIOS should list your chips "VID", go a few notches above this to start with. 65nm Core 2s can take quite a lot of voltage but be sure to stay below 1.5V.

Changed the timings to what you said and tried voltage at 1.5 and 1.425 and still just the long beep on boot up and nothing else. :/

EDIT: Should I be clearing the cmos after changing settings?

EDIT 2: Should I be changing VCore Voltage or Core VTT Voltage? So confused about why I'm having so much trouble.
 
One of my friend's pc has just died and he wanted a recommendation on this spec:

CAS:COOLERMASTER ELITE 310 Mid Tower Case
CS_FAN: Default Case Fan
POWERSUPPLY:Corsair PSU 750W TX750W Power Supply SLI Ready
CPU:(Quad-Core)Intel® CoreT i7 920 @ 2.66GHz 8 MB cache LGA1366
FAN:Asetek Liquid CPU Cooling System For Intel LGA1366
MOTHERBOARD: MSI X58 Pro Intel X58 Chipset CrossFire DDR3 Mainboard
MEMORY:6GB (3x2GB) PC10666 DDR3/1333mhz Triple Channel Memory
VIDEO:NVIDIA GeForce GTX285 2GB 16X PCI Express
HDD:Single Hard Drive (1TB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 16M Cache Hard Drive)
CD:LiteOn LH-20A1H 20X Double Layer DVD±RW Super Allwrite + Lightscribe Technology [+8] (Black Color [-7])
SOUND:HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO

I mentioned he probably doesn't need 6GB ram, but he seems quite adamant he will, gaming in windowed mode.

He's stating he can get that for about £1200 inc. VAT, which seems a bit pricey, but he has no patience for building one himself these days apparently so it's from here - http://www.cyberpowersystem.co.uk/ - haven't had chance to dig around myself yet at work.

His needs, he runs windowed for gaming apparently.

This has to run current gen pc stuff smoothly at 1680x1050 (Dragon Age, L4DII etc.), support dual monitors, handle CAD software (campaign cartographer) Photoshop, Painter etc. Mostly it's a gaming rig but I do also occasionally use it for art or the odd thing that tends to need a decent amount of oomph behind it. I don't want to have to worry about tweaking to get PC games to run, I wanna click 1680x1050 res, high settings and have it run >30fps without me having to go tweak anything
 

fresquito

Member
Okay, so I was wrong about my PSU. It turns out is quite worse than I expected. Can anybody tell me if I need to buy a new one for this config?

AMD X2 2.41
4GB DDR2 800
ATI HD 4850 (I still have to decide if 512MB or 1GB).
Windows XP (Maybe Windows 7 ib the not so distant future).
PSU 480

I don't plan on OC anything and will play at 1280x1024 mostly everything.
 
Darkflight said:
One of my friend's pc has just died and he wanted a recommendation on this spec:



I mentioned he probably doesn't need 6GB ram, but he seems quite adamant he will, gaming in windowed mode.

He's stating he can get that for about £1200 inc. VAT, which seems a bit pricey, but he has no patience for building one himself these days apparently so it's from here - http://www.cyberpowersystem.co.uk/ - haven't had chance to dig around myself yet at work.

His needs, he runs windowed for gaming apparently.

Right off the bat switching to a P55 mobo + i5 750 and a 5870 +4GB of RAM will give him much better gaming performance at a fraction of the price.

If he must go prebuilt then he's better off getting one of overclockers.co.uk systems, they're pre-overclocked, so you don't miss out on as many of the benefits of a home build. Choose a 5870 as the GPU for this machine and it'll obliterate the rig he speced whilst saving him a good chunk of change in the process:

http://overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FS-065-OE&groupid=43&catid=1270&subcat=1443

He can also get similar performance to that £1200 machine for £400 less from here, whilst getting a BD drive and watercooling packed in:

http://www.yoyotech.co.uk/yoyotech-...-reader-onboard-sound-software-p-2513792.html
 

pvpness

Member
hey gurus,

A friend of mine wants me to piece together a system for him if he orders the parts and I'm wondering if somewhere in this massive thread there is a neogaf "stock" system that's kinda a "most bang for your buck" scenario? I'd like to know before I start going through page by page of this beast. He needs pretty much everything from what he's telling me and doesn't wanna spend more than 1000/1500 bucks but would like it to be scalable so he's not entirely rebuilding from scratch in two years. Something like this possible? It's going to be strictly used for gaming. Any info would be very appreciated!
 

mug

Member
pvpness said:
hey gurus,

A friend of mine wants me to piece together a system for him if he orders the parts and I'm wondering if somewhere in this massive thread there is a neogaf "stock" system that's kinda a "most bang for your buck" scenario? I'd like to know before I start going through page by page of this beast. He needs pretty much everything from what he's telling me and doesn't wanna spend more than 1000/1500 bucks but would like it to be scalable so he's not entirely rebuilding from scratch in two years. Something like this possible? It's going to be strictly used for gaming. Any info would be very appreciated!
Just start customizing an i7 build, should be easy to keep it under that price range. Mainly depends on what type of videocard he's looking for - noise a factor?
 

FreezeSSC

Member
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
To be safe, you double checked everything and made sure you have it plugged in correctly?


Thanks for the responce, yes i did! i even plugged it from the jusb1 to the jusb2 to make sure but im still not getting any response from anything i plug in, could the actual usb ports be bad?
 

pvpness

Member
mug said:
Just start customizing an i7 build, should be easy to keep it under that price range. Mainly depends on what type of videocard he's looking for - noise a factor?
Nah, he says he's got loud speakers so unless it's entirely unreasonably loud then it's not a problem.
 

Firestorm

Member
fresquito said:
Okay, so I was wrong about my PSU. It turns out is quite worse than I expected. Can anybody tell me if I need to buy a new one for this config?

AMD X2 2.41
4GB DDR2 800
ATI HD 4850 (I still have to decide if 512MB or 1GB).
Windows XP (Maybe Windows 7 ib the not so distant future).
PSU 480

I don't plan on OC anything and will play at 1280x1024 mostly everything.
What specific PSU? A CoolerMaster 480 PSU and a Corsair 480 PSU aren't going to give you the same results.
 
brain_stew said:
Right off the bat switching to a P55 mobo + i5 750 and a 5870 +4GB of RAM will give him much better gaming performance at a fraction of the price.

If he must go prebuilt then he's better off getting one of overclockers.co.uk systems, they're pre-overclocked, so you don't miss out on as many of the benefits of a home build. Choose a 5870 as the GPU for this machine and it'll obliterate the rig he speced whilst saving him a good chunk of change in the process:

http://overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FS-065-OE&groupid=43&catid=1270&subcat=1443

He can also get similar performance to that £1200 machine for £400 less from here, whilst getting a BD drive and watercooling packed in:

http://www.yoyotech.co.uk/yoyotech-...-reader-onboard-sound-software-p-2513792.html
Cheers for the advice
 

fresquito

Member
Firestorm said:
What specific PSU? A CoolerMaster 480 PSU and a Corsair 480 PSU aren't going to give you the same results.
It's a generic PSU, Colorsit is the brand. (although I guess you could call it colorshit).
 
So I placed my order for the i7 860/MSI P55-GD80/ATI 5870/8GB (2GBx4) CORSAIR CMD8GX3M4A1600C8 build earlier today and while checking out it suggested a combo with a psu that'd cut $50 off my order so I said what the heck and did that instead.

I had originally intended to get the CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX but instead with the Antec TruePower New TP-750 because it was cheaper with the combo. Too late to change the order at this point because I was rushing to order before the 5870 went out of stock again.

Anyway, is this a decent psu or did I just screw myself for $50? More power but some of the reviews are worse so I don't know what to think. It's going in a mid-size tower so the cable length probably won't be an issue for me.

It also auto-added this free cpu cooler to my order. Is this better than the stock fan or should I just disregard it?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
grap3fruitman said:
Anyway, is this a decent psu or did I just screw myself for $50? More power but some of the reviews are worse so I don't know what to think. It's going in a mid-size tower so the cable length probably won't be an issue for me.

It also auto-added this free cpu cooler to my order. Is this better than the stock fan or should I just disregard it?
Decent PSU, better than stock cooler if you can get it on right.
 

Metalic Sand

who is Emo-Beas?
Thought i should ask this here.

So my mouse turns off and on while in games. Its very random when it does it and i can go 1 hour to 3 hours without it happening or longer. It NEVER happens while on the desktop or anything else. ONLY games. I dont recall if its every game either but it happens in a few namely League of Legends and Heroes of Newerth.

What could be doing this? I really dont think its the mouse dieing or else it would be happening outside of games. Its a Razer copperhead.


Edit: Ive tryed other USB ports before.
 

adg1034

Member
Metalic Sand said:
Thought i should ask this here.

So my mouse turns off and on while in games. Its very random when it does it and i can go 1 hour to 3 hours without it happening or longer. It NEVER happens while on the desktop or anything else. ONLY games. I dont recall if its every game either but it happens in a few namely League of Legends and Heroes of Newerth.

What could be doing this? I really dont think its the mouse dieing or else it would be happening outside of games. Its a Razer copperhead.


Edit: Ive tryed other USB ports before.

If you can, you really should try using another mouse, first in that same USB port, and next in another. If that fails, try another game, and if that fails, I really don't know what could be causing it.
 

Firestorm

Member
fresquito said:
It's a generic PSU, Colorsit is the brand. (although I guess you could call it colorshit).
I've never heard of that brand and I can't find it on Newegg or NCIX. Is there nothing else in that price range?

grap3fruitman said:
So I placed my order for the i7 860/MSI P55-GD80/ATI 5870/8GB (2GBx4) CORSAIR CMD8GX3M4A1600C8 build earlier today and while checking out it suggested a combo with a psu that'd cut $50 off my order so I said what the heck and did that instead.

I had originally intended to get the CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX but instead with the Antec TruePower New TP-750 because it was cheaper with the combo. Too late to change the order at this point because I was rushing to order before the 5870 went out of stock again.

Anyway, is this a decent psu or did I just screw myself for $50? More power but some of the reviews are worse so I don't know what to think. It's going in a mid-size tower so the cable length probably won't be an issue for me.

It also auto-added this free cpu cooler to my order. Is this better than the stock fan or should I just disregard it?
Antec makes good PSUs.
 
grap3fruitman said:
So I placed my order for the i7 860/MSI P55-GD80/ATI 5870/8GB (2GBx4) CORSAIR CMD8GX3M4A1600C8 build earlier today and while checking out it suggested a combo with a psu that'd cut $50 off my order so I said what the heck and did that instead.

I had originally intended to get the CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX but instead with the Antec TruePower New TP-750 because it was cheaper with the combo. Too late to change the order at this point because I was rushing to order before the 5870 went out of stock again.

Anyway, is this a decent psu or did I just screw myself for $50? More power but some of the reviews are worse so I don't know what to think. It's going in a mid-size tower so the cable length probably won't be an issue for me.

It also auto-added this free cpu cooler to my order. Is this better than the stock fan or should I just disregard it?

You done good, that's a very decent PSU and that HSF is much better than the crappy stock one. You should be able to manage a decent overclock with it.
 
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