I have a Sony KDL-50W829B but the sound doesn't seem the best. I am playing Unity and the voices sound tinny but the background noise is fine.
It happens with TV programmes as well. An example if I am watch Pawn Stars the sound is fine for the negotiation part but the backroom interview on the item sounds tinny.
Does anyone know what is wrong and more importantly what do I adjust to balance it.
Unfortunately, games have no sound standard, so sometimes a game will have crystal clear voices, and some other times they will come from your back speakers (if you have a surround setup) and be very low volume.
As for movies or broadcast, you probably have your TVs sound option incorrectly configured. Turn off surround or any other "enhancement" modes. Also, fiddle with the bass, treble, etc. bars until you fix the problem.
But, it is kind of a running joke among people how in most movies the voices are always too low to hear and the sound effects too high.
Can anybody explain to me the difference between image retention and burn in?
I get the impression burn-in is the more serious irreversible of the two, but do they actually appear different on the TV? My vague, amateur understanding was that IR tended to appear 'lighter' almost a white, ghosting image of previous images, while burn in is darker than the image around it.
IR is temporary, Burnin is permanent.
In my experience both can look the same. The difference is one goes away eventually and the other does not. However, some IR can take months to remove depending on your panel, causing people to think they have burnin.
Watching my 55" XBR850B right now, so I can easily recommend the 65" version over the Samsungs. Much better and more accurate color, deeper blacks, lower input lag, sports mode button, best upscaling and 4k content availability on the market.
Is there a single post-processing feature that actually helps image quality? Just about everything that can be turned off, I turn off on modern TVs.
Does anyone here actually use any of the "motion enhance" or "600hz mode" nonsense while gaming? Not only does it look worse while watching shows, it adds a hell of a lot of input lag to games. And almost all modern sets have this shit.
IR is temporary, Burnin is permanent.
In my experience both can look the same. The difference is one goes away eventually and the other does not. However, some IR can take months to remove depending on your panel, causing people to think they have burnin.
Yeah, and Destiny IR is the *worst* offender I've ever seen by far and I'm sure some people think they have burn in because of it. But it will go away, eventually heh.
Though if you kept playing it for 300-400 hours or more I have no clue what it would do. It took quite a few months for my 200+ to go away and it really sucks that there's no HUD options for it and that they just don't care. I have a friend in QA there and he tried to pass it along multiple times but it's just not a priority.
Thankfully the vast majority of games these days have HUD options or use colors that fade really easily. White/Red/Yellow are really bad. Darker stuff and light blues or greens and browns fade super fast. Just that bright bright White/Red/Yellow are awful. Cream/Light/Opaque white is okay. Really dark red is okay too. HUD elements that aren't a solid color, regardless of color/brightness, as long as they move around a lot like Blizzard's D3 stuff bubbling is great.
Yeah, and Destiny IR is the *worst* offender I've ever seen by far and I'm sure some people think they have burn in because of it. But it will go away, eventually heh.
Though if you kept playing it for 300-400 hours or more I have no clue what it would do. It took quite a few months for my 200+ to go away and it really sucks that there's no HUD options for it and that they just don't care. I have a friend in QA there and he tried to pass it along multiple times but it's just not a priority.
Thankfully the vast majority of games these days have HUD options or use colors that fade really easily. White/Red/Yellow are really bad. Darker stuff and light blues or greens and browns fade super fast. Just that bright bright White/Red/Yellow are awful. Cream/Light/Opaque white is okay. Really dark red is okay too. HUD elements that aren't a solid color, regardless of color/brightness, as long as they move around a lot like Blizzard's D3 stuff bubbling is great.
I'm convinced it's burn-in as it's a sort of dark grey colour but only visible over light blues. It's very, very faint but one of those things you can't stop noticing once you know it's there.
if its any lower then 2k id be surprised. I won't be buying a 4k TV until probably about 2020, no earlier then 2018. Hopefully by then we see what direction the console market goes. I mainly use my TV for gaming purposes so I can wait.
I just may replace my 9th generation Kuro Elite with one of these bad boys. Been looking to go bigger, get 3D, and 4K is here to stay. Like you've said, we just need a price. I've got money in a savings account I've been setting aside for just such a purchase.
It's worth it for two reasons: protects against power surge which manufacturers don't cover and second, in home service which the manufacturers don't usually provide.
Really, it's up to you. But a TV is an investment, and in selling them I've seen a lot of unhappy customers with broken sets who told me they would've bought the warranty if they could roll back the clock.
Noticing some horizontal lines on the bottom half of my ZT60 that appears to be very some very persistent IR or burn-in at the most extreme. Only thing I can think of being the cause for it is subtitles from watching stuff some series on Netflix.
Ridiculous, to think that I can't watch a show without having to put up with this shit. As much as I love the incredible contrast and colours, I can't stand babying the TV.
I just may replace my 9th generation Kuro Elite with one of these bad boys. Been looking to go bigger, get 3D, and 4K is here to stay. Like you've said, we just need a price. I've got money in a savings account I've been setting aside for just such a purchase.
The 65 inch model is like $10k right now, as the months pass it should drop and drop if its anything like the previous oled models released. I'm guessing around $5-6k in june.
if its any lower then 2k id be surprised. I won't be buying a 4k TV until probably about 2020, no earlier then 2018. Hopefully by then we see what direction the console market goes. I mainly use my TV for gaming purposes so I can wait.
I can't help it, I'll always think of LG as low quality. That and Samsung. I've had crap products from both, and I just feel like they used to be bottom of the barrel and somehow now are leading - mainly due to price in the past.
I can't see myself buying a panel that wasn't Panasonic. And that's only because Pioneer is long gone. But without Panny making plasmas anymore, I don't know.
Luckily my Pio and Panny should last a long while. Maybe I'll buy an 8K someday.
Does anyone have experience with the new Vizio 50" 4K TV? Are 1080p games going to look like a mess on it? I'm considering upgrading to a 50" for my gaming TV, but I'm not sure what to get.
I can't help it, I'll always think of LG as low quality. That and Samsung. I've had crap products from both, and I just feel like they used to be bottom of the barrel and somehow now are leading - mainly due to price in the past.
I can't see myself buying a panel that wasn't Panasonic. And that's only because Pioneer is long gone. But without Panny making plasmas anymore, I don't know.
Luckily my Pio and Panny should last a long while. Maybe I'll buy an 8K someday.
Yeah so my trusty 40" Bravia is now officially fucked, something about overvoltage in the A or B board which to me suggest either a trip to a service center ( for fuck knows how much money ) or a new TV which is a damn shame because I feel quite attached to the Old Yeller.
Honestly, this TV gave me many great times from practically input lag-free gaming on the PS3 to streaming Black Emmanuelle off Amazon Prime but what can ya do right ?
I'm preparing for the worse and planning ahead, in other words I could do with some suggestions as to what to get as a replacement, my standards aren't unreasonably high:
- Screen 40" or above
- Smart features a bonus but not a requirement
- A solid game mode that reduces input lag over HDMI, stepson had a Samsung with horrendous input lag over HDMI on a 360 Elite and Guitar Hero / Rocksmith for some reason.
- No retarded image processing crap ie. "Cinema engine VX 2 billion+ HDFX Hollywood Up-The-Arse Super Real Time Motion" -crap because 9 out of 10 times these things make the picture look unnatural and weird. I'll have em but only if they can be switched off or alternatively provide a true benefit to the IQ.
- As I'm in the UK, a Freeview HD Tuner is a must ( probably more or less standard now anyway. )
- TV will mainly be used for TV watching but also light to moderate PS3 gaming and I like to keep the options open for next gen console purchases.
Budget = roughly £300, Can go over a bit potentially which means less Smirnoff for me next month but I'm sure I might live, as long as the missus gets to catch up on her stories.
Any suggestions are welcome but the ones fitting more or less the above criteria will be most appreciated.
also apologies if there's a thread for this kind of thing, for some reason I immediately thought of this thread when I diagnosed the patient.
also also wik (
soz, mandatory monty python joke
) If someone happens to have experienced this issue in the past and knows how much the repairs will roughly set me back, this info would also be greatly appreciated because at the end of the day I like to try and be green and mend my shit rather then buy a new one at the first sign of trouble.
Yeah so my trusty 40" Bravia is now officially fucked, something about overvoltage in the A or B board which to me suggest either a trip to a service center ( for fuck knows how much money ) or a new TV which is a damn shame because I feel quite attached to the Old Yeller.
Something went bad, but it doesn't sound common. It's probably easy to fix in that a service tech will just replace one or more boards but if Google fails you here I'd just assume it's a lost cause. It *could* be cheaper to fix though; really just depends how much trouble / cost is involved in getting the TV to a service centre. I wouldn't expect anyone here to know the specific problem unless they work at a Service centre...
I don't know enough about the pound or any UK specific features, but the general rule of thumb is that this years Sonys - even the cheap ones - have really solid game modes. Nothing is hidden, it's just a plain per-input display mode alongside all of the image processing modes. Their cheaper sets will of course lack on those fancy processing modes, but that doesn't sound like it will bother you. You can even skip 3D to save. (If you go to a store, it's super easy to check the modes, too; the Sony remotes all have an overlay button for quick mode changes)
There is no difference between PS3 and the current consoles in terms of your TV purchase; you should be buying a native 1080p set. HDMI is a given, which means you'll be set for last gen and this gen.
Smart features won't do you much good. I'd just try to fit your price range. Let your PS3 handle all of the important stuff. LG tends to have the highest end Smart features but realistically you can get equal or better Netflix / DLNA through your console, so you'd have to have a pretty specific need.
Something went bad, but it doesn't sound common. It's probably easy to fix in that a service tech will just replace one or more boards but if Google fails you here I'd just assume it's a lost cause. It *could* be cheaper to fix though; really just depends how much trouble / cost is involved in getting the TV to a service centre. I wouldn't expect anyone here to know the specific problem unless they work at a Service centre...
I don't know enough about the pound or any UK specific features, but the general rule of thumb is that this years Sonys - even the cheap ones - have really solid game modes. Nothing is hidden, it's just a plain per-input display mode alongside all of the image processing modes. Their cheaper sets will of course lack on those fancy processing modes, but that doesn't sound like it will bother you. You can even skip 3D to save. (If you go to a store, it's super easy to check the modes, too; the Sony remotes all have an overlay button for quick mode changes)
There is no difference between PS3 and the current consoles in terms of your TV purchase; you should be buying a native 1080p set. HDMI is a given, which means you'll be set for last gen and this gen.
Smart features won't do you much good. I'd just try to fit your price range. Let your PS3 handle all of the important stuff. LG tends to have the highest end Smart features but realistically you can get equal or better Netflix / DLNA through your console, so you'd have to have a pretty specific need.
thanks for a speedy response and what you say seems to align with what I've already manage to deduct from the tiny bit of research I've done. A new model of the same TV would be £299 and it offers all the features I need, 100hz processing, lacklustre image processing which is actually preferred, native 1080p and the afore mentioned "freeview HD" tuner. The plan would be to let the PS3 handle the "smart" features so having these built into the TV isn't really necessary.
I'm somewhat keen on staying with Sony as I've had a Sony TV for the past 10 years but I'm not particularly brand loyal either so LG, Samsung or Panasonic are all contenders. The only thing is that I'd prefer to stick with LCD/LED over plasma due to the somewhat higher power consumption of plasmas and I still have this image of screen burn ( ironically ) burnt in my brain in case of plasmas but from what I've gathered this is history now with new models. I've never actually owned a plasma so I wouldn't know tbh.
thanks for a speedy response and what you say seems to align with what I've already manage to deduct from the tiny bit of research I've done. A new model of the same TV would be £299 and it offers all the features I need, 100hz processing, lacklustre image processing which is actually preferred, native 1080p and the afore mentioned "freeview HD" tuner. The plan would be to let the PS3 handle the "smart" features so having these built into the TV isn't really necessary.
I'm somewhat keen on staying with Sony as I've had a Sony TV for the past 10 years but I'm not particularly brand loyal either so LG, Samsung or Panasonic are all contenders. The only thing is that I'd prefer to stick with LCD/LED over plasma due to the somewhat higher power consumption of plasmas and I still have this image of screen burn ( ironically ) burnt in my brain in case of plasmas but from what I've gathered this is history now with new models. I've never actually owned a plasma so I wouldn't know tbh.
I used to own a Panasonic Plasma. They're great. But every player is now officially out of the Plasma market so none of these should really be of interest to you unless you had money to burn and a source on the best ones. LCD gives you the cheap, no-nonsense option you need. (I was going to say 120hz, but yeah, forgot about those PAL specific hz rates, hah)
I suggested the Sony specifically because they make game mode so simple. I'd hate to have to label inputs or switch every time I switch inputs. The other guys are getting better but there are still quirks here and there. You are probably going to be stuck with some SmartTV nonsense but it's easy enough to ignore.
I have a recent 60" bravia TV (LED) and one thing that bothers me ... when a single color fades in or out, or, is just dark in general, there is posterisation or color banding. I notice it right from the boot up as the blue health warning fades in from the black, it looks like posterization.
An example to highlight the issue..
if I have a night course on Driveclub it is visible in the sky as circular bands.
If I go into photo mode, and then turn down the exposure compensation it exaggerates it. Here I take a picture of the TV with my phone -- this is what it looks like, minus the JPG and camera CCD noise etc:
Is this the TV ?
It shows 1080p 12bit, and changing RGB to limited or full on the PS4 doesn't change the banding.]
I have a recent 60" bravia TV (LED) and one thing that bothers me ... when a single color fades in or out, or, is just dark in general, there is posterisation or color banding. I notice it right from the boot up as the blue health warning fades in from the black, it looks like posterization.
An example to highlight the issue..
if I have a night course on Driveclub it is visible in the sky as circular bands.
If I go into photo mode, and then turn down the exposure compensation it exaggerates it. Here I take a picture of the TV with my phone -- this is what it looks like, minus the JPG and camera CCD noise etc:
Is this the TV ?
It shows 1080p 12bit, and changing RGB to limited or full on the PS4 doesn't change the banding.]
I have a recent 60" bravia TV (LED) and one thing that bothers me ... when a single color fades in or out, or, is just dark in general, there is posterisation or color banding. I notice it right from the boot up as the blue health warning fades in from the black, it looks like posterization.
An example to highlight the issue..
if I have a night course on Driveclub it is visible in the sky as circular bands.
If I go into photo mode, and then turn down the exposure compensation it exaggerates it. Here I take a picture of the TV with my phone -- this is what it looks like, minus the JPG and camera CCD noise etc:
Is this the TV ?
It shows 1080p 12bit, and changing RGB to limited or full on the PS4 doesn't change the banding.]
If it's a recent bravia, go into the picture adjustments and scroll down to "Smooth gradation". Turn that from off to either low, medium or high and it will smooth out the edges. Only tv that can fix gradation.
I have a recent 60" bravia TV (LED) and one thing that bothers me ... when a single color fades in or out, or, is just dark in general, there is posterisation or color banding. I notice it right from the boot up as the blue health warning fades in from the black, it looks like posterization.
An example to highlight the issue..
if I have a night course on Driveclub it is visible in the sky as circular bands.
If I go into photo mode, and then turn down the exposure compensation it exaggerates it. Here I take a picture of the TV with my phone -- this is what it looks like, minus the JPG and camera CCD noise etc:
Is this the TV ?
It shows 1080p 12bit, and changing RGB to limited or full on the PS4 doesn't change the banding.]
Have you noticed any motion blur or judder on either the 4k streaming or 1080p conversion? I'm considering getting one my self and that's my biggest concern right now. Any negatives you have about the TV?
Bought a 700B to save money and it's probably the best TV I've ever owned or seen in person after I calibrated it to my specifications(which is pretty much ISF levels, I'm usually only a point or two off in most cases from a real ISF calibration), stellar picture and performance, Alien and Bladerunner on Blu-ray never looked this fucking good.... ever.
I also have near perfect screen uniformity, don't know if I was just lucky but it's about as black as most samsung's I've seen.
Everything just pops and looks great, no banding, no image lag, no controller lag.
For $799 I think I made out like a bandit, it has all the specs I could want and looks fantastic and I was picking between sets that were almost a thousand dollars more.
I thought I might regret the decision to go for a lower end model but absolutely not, this competes with the higher end tvs easily after calibration. My friend's ISF calibrated XBR looks really good, but even he agrees mine looks better.
Which is nuts because he spent like close to 3k on that thing and I was super jelly.
If it's a recent bravia, go into the picture adjustments and scroll down to "Smooth gradation". Turn that from off to either low, medium or high and it will smooth out the edges. Only tv that can fix gradation.
thanks
that worked
also dumping a screen cap and viewing it on my mac showed the tv set (and an led monitor) both display the dark sky too brightly, as though exposure has been turned up.
The sky is nearly black in the jpg (with same banding but invisible) however the tv and monitor both display the frame as though the exposure slider has been set to high, and that makes the posterization really visible.
What is i dont understand is, why both monitor and tv appear to by default be so poor for dark color areas (if the jpg screen capture is how the game is supposed to look).
Bought a 700B to save money and it's probably the best TV I've ever owned or seen in person after I calibrated it to my specifications(which is pretty much ISF levels, I'm usually only a point or two off in most cases from a real ISF calibration), stellar picture and performance, Alien and Bladerunner on Blu-ray never looked this fucking good.... ever.
I also have near perfect screen uniformity, don't know if I was just lucky but it's about as black as most samsung's I've seen.
Everything just pops and looks great, no banding, no image lag, no controller lag.
For $799 I think I made out like a bandit, it has all the specs I could want and looks fantastic and I was picking between sets that were almost a thousand dollars more.
I thought I might regret the decision to go for a lower end model but absolutely not, this competes with the higher end tvs easily after calibration. My friend's ISF calibrated XBR looks really good, but even he agrees mine looks better.
Which is nuts because he spent like close to 3k on that thing and I was super jelly.
I thought I might regret the decision to go for a lower end model but absolutely not, this competes with the higher end tvs easily after calibration. My friend's ISF calibrated XBR looks really good, but even he agrees mine looks better.
Which is nuts because he spent like close to 3k on that thing and I was super jelly.
I think you're just looking at it through rose tinted glasses It's a good TV but it's still a $1k LED, any sony with Trilum and extended dynamic range is going to give a better picture. Are those features worth an extra $1,000 though? For most people, no.
So the sound on Netflix on my Samsung 65 inch UN65H7150 TV is absolutely terrible.
Cable box, video games, etc. all sound fine at anywhere from like 15-30 volume, but with netflix I need to push it upwards into like 80 in order to hear decently. Has anyone experienced this or know a fix?
I tried to look online and saw people mentioning an issue with Samsung TVs and Netflix and that the answer was to change some sound setting from auto to normal, but I couldn't find a setting like that at all.
If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated
Wait! Android TV?!?!!, might just have to look into this, since I chip my TV screen while moving into my new house...hopefully rooting can be done and we be able to load XBMC goodies onto the TV ...
Yeah, and Destiny IR is the *worst* offender I've ever seen by far and I'm sure some people think they have burn in because of it. But it will go away, eventually heh.
Though if you kept playing it for 300-400 hours or more I have no clue what it would do. It took quite a few months for my 200+ to go away and it really sucks that there's no HUD options for it and that they just don't care. I have a friend in QA there and he tried to pass it along multiple times but it's just not a priority.
Thankfully the vast majority of games these days have HUD options or use colors that fade really easily. White/Red/Yellow are really bad. Darker stuff and light blues or greens and browns fade super fast. Just that bright bright White/Red/Yellow are awful. Cream/Light/Opaque white is okay. Really dark red is okay too. HUD elements that aren't a solid color, regardless of color/brightness, as long as they move around a lot like Blizzard's D3 stuff bubbling is great.
I thought most plasmas have a built in screen saver thingy you can run for 10 mins after watching something that leaves IR? Mine certainly does (not that I've used it much) - the key with plasma is to 'wear it in' - worked a treat for me.
I've seen the LG 55ec930v OLED at John Lewis and was blown away by the blacks, colour and picture quality. I definitely consider this my Sony LCD 40X3500 replacement! They were selling for £2K during Christmas but now back upto £3K.
Have decided to wait for the updated 4K version and see what picture quality improvements there are.
They have the 4k model numbers on the US site so can't be far behind
It's a good TV but it's still a $1k LED, any sony with Trilum and extended dynamic range is going to give a better picture. Are those features worth an extra $1,000 though? For most people, no.