Ah, ok. I didn't have a full understanding of the issue at hand. I say let people manually shift straight from 6th to 1st at 150mph if they want, so long as realistic damage occurs.
I'll let someone else sort out the 'damage off' factor. My work here is done.
Do you have any specific cars that you feel handle well with a controller? I just tried the Huracan and AMG A 45 Turing car and they are the first two cars I've tried that felt very good with a controller and didn't require god-like precision to drive them hard. At least now I know for sure that some cars are actually good with a controller, I was legitimately starting to wonder why anyone thought the controls were improved.
I love how the VR settings and regular monitor setups are separate so you don't have to mess around with settings every time you switch between the two. It sounds like such a minor thing but I appreciate it. Now that I'm slowly learning which cars do well on a controller this'll be the perfect couch game when I'm not in the mood for VR/wheel play and I just want put in a few quick laps.
To be honest I dont have many too many issues with controlling cars with the controller. I can actually drive the open wheel cars this time around. Couldnt drive the Formula A cars or historic open wheel cars in PC1. I actually find them enjoyable this time around, and dont spin out.
I did try the NASCAR Ford car on the Texas oval and found it full of understeer but that might be more of the default car setup being messed up.
OK let them cheat guys on the next patch guys. Do what all the other sims do, ignore the reality of cog shift limitations. It's what our users want.
Casey. Drop all of the engineering based shift timing limitations. Let them ram it home at the speed their hands move on whatever shifter equipment they use.
These are the types things that ding their games for me, personally. While I understand why they might think this was more authentic, instead it feels artificial, contrived, and very un-simulation like. I feel when other sims hit a crossroads like that, they opt not to compromise the experience with unsimulated rule sets that clearly feel phoney to the user.
this rating system is so bad, im going to overtake a guy before eau rouge and he pushes me into the wall wrecking my car. need repair get last and drop like 40 in rating and the idiot wins the race
I don't really care about the numbered performance rating anymore. I just try to join lobbies with minimum D safety ratings. U rating lobbies are just asking for trouble.
These are the types things that ding their games for me, personally. While I understand why they might think this was more authentic, instead it feels artificial, contrived, and very un-simulation like. I feel when other sims hit a crossroads like that, they opt not to compromise the experience with unsimulated rule sets that clearly feel phoney to the user.
I feel this is very well said. Quoted you in that WMD thread, hope it's all right. Some people there are still moaning and begging SMS not to give in to people wanting to make the game unrealistic.
Do you have any specific cars that you feel handle well with a controller? I just tried the Huracan and AMG A 45 Turing car and they are the first two cars I've tried that felt very good with a controller and didn't require god-like precision to drive them hard. At least now I know for sure that some cars are actually good with a controller, I was legitimately starting to wonder why anyone thought the controls were improved.
I think the Porsche is the most pliable in all scenario's. It's the easier to correct as well as to get the most performance from. It feels the most planted.
Really though it depends just as much on your controller settings.
It's so dependent on the level of surface water, it's all really hard to tell.
The tire here has 8mm profile vertical axis is longitudinal friction coefficient, horizontal is speed, the graphs are for different surface water levels.
The grip loss with speed is pretty progressive, there is no huge hole from a certain speed on like some might believe, however the water level can cause a drop.
What I somewhat doubt is the depiction of regaining grip in the wet after a slide, but I've actually never slid in the wet at more than 50km/h.
To complete the set of diagrams I have for wet driving:
Slip-ratio vs longitudinal friction coefficient [a) dry, b) wet, c) gravel]
tread-profile depth vs lateral friction coefficient [8mm profile depth = 100%, recorded at a 10degree slip angle at 60km/h
A racing rain tire should have about 4mm profile depth (so at about 50% in the graph above) - at 2mm that would be about 50% less lateral grip and that's without added longitudinal slip from acceleration or braking.
I was just considering the feel of significant puddles that generate 'full' hydroplaning, i.e. total lift of the contact patches and zero grip (aside from water resistance).
If I drive through a big puddle in PCARS2 at very low speed (below 20mph), I still get the zero grip feeling, like black ice. At that speed, I would expect the weight of the car to displace the water enough so that the contact patch would engage with the track surface to some degree so that it was no longer 'full' hydroplaning.
High speed hydroplaning seems fine. Smash through a puddle and the car moves around a bit, water pulls on the FFB a bit, and it's over so quickly, there's no time to consider whether it was realistic or not. But slow speed gives me time to think about it, and below 30mph it feels much more like sliding on black ice than going through a deep puddle.
This is exacerbated by the AI, who clearly aren't affected by puddles in the same way. Donington in heavy rain for example - a small pond forms at the hairpin. Try to follow the AI line at their speed - impossible.
If I drive through a big puddle in PCARS2 at very low speed (below 20mph), I still get the zero grip feeling, like black ice. At that speed, I would expect the weight of the car to displace the water enough so that the contact patch would engage with the track surface to some degree so that it was no longer 'full' hydroplaning.
High speed hydroplaning seems fine. Smash through a puddle and the car moves around a bit, water pulls on the FFB a bit, and it's over so quickly, there's no time to consider whether it was realistic or not. But slow speed gives me time to think about it, and below 30mph it feels much more like sliding on black ice than going through a deep puddle.
At slow speeds you still have a reduced grip effect from a water-film effect on the blocks of the profile.
The Lamellae on these blocks are there to counter this effect, but according to the diagrams above, even without hydroplaning, your grip is still reduced by about 50%.
But you are right that the amount of surface water / puddle depth shouldn't make much of a difference at these slow speeds... looks like ~20% reduction from very little to lots of surface water at slow speeds. So, yea, maybe that's overdone a little...
I still like the idea of harsh penalties for quitters, i guess it should be different for people having problems during the race.
In the case of entering a stupid lobby you are pretty much just trying to salvage a bad situation. I guess the blame is on me for entering something without knowing the context.
People that are leveling up fast are sticking to one lobby, it´s bad when you jump from one to another like i´m doing.
Hey, Seattle6418 and everyone else using an H-Pattern shifter, WE WON! xD
29 pages of people saying it's unplayable, it's too slow, SMS members saying it's realistic and based on data, people then saying "we don't believe you, and we don't care with the mis-shifts and an FFB-shifter that prevents us from putting the gear in, it's unplayable etc.", Ian Bell posted
childish, sore idiot ...230+ms delay above what you need to move the shifter in an 80's F1 dogbox, please
Also downshift prevention will let you overrev a lower gear by about 10% now (which I think is too much, but I don't really care if it's not based on actual electronics of each of the different cars that have this system.
I posted there, and i think they are only talking about the downshift protection for the paddle shift cars, which is a non issue for me. I still think they are completely missing the point on the H pattern cars, and when they give those condescending answers it just pisses us off because we are talking A and they are acknowledging B and answering to C.
Wow.... I wish I had found this thread before I spent $60 bucks but oh well... I found a schema that works. This was posted over on Reddit and it's magical! These settings tested on PS4 Pro, your mileage may vary:
First thing I did was changed the controller settings to Johnson's settings:
Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 45
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Sensitivity: 10
Brake Deadzone: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 10
Clutch Deadzone: 10
Cluth Sensitivity: 25
Speed Sensitivity: 95
Damper Saturation: 100
Controller Damping: 79
Then in Gameplay Settings - Authenticity:
Steering/Braking assistance - off
Driving Assists - Full
Anti-lock Brakes - Low
Stability Control - On
Traction Control - Low
Damage type - Visual
Mech. fail - No
Tyre wear - Authentic
Rules Penalties - Off
I gotta say, the game is amazing with those new controls.... like, why in the living hell was it not shipped to feel like this? When you're not fighting the controls and you have an incredibly close race, there is a rush..... that no other racing game has ever come close to. Yes DriveClub, even you can't match this feeling.
I am trying to figure out on what settings to (re-)start the career mode. I've had no luck with karting and formula rookie. I then tried that other lowest tier category (the name escapes me). The fastest I can go on that track is like 1:18:00 and the AI goes like 1:15-1:16.
I've had no issues in Project Cars 1 career.
What are the settings I should start with? Is there a way I can just drive, and the game will recommend me the settings for my skill level?
The KTM X-Bow is an awesome little car. Just had a forced default online race with them on Brands Hatch and it was a blast just flinging it into the corners.
Thats what I mainly do, improving my times, doing some minor tuning and getting used to the feel of the game.
I noticed that theres a settings cog icon next to users times. Now correct me if im wrong, but when you click on it, it syncs their car settings and applies it to yours. That sounds like a cool feature!
I've done some TT using the Ferrari F40 LM on Monza and Sugo. If your playing on PC, check it out and have a go. Shouldnt be too hard to better, theres room for improvement.
Man, this game sometimes. Had a chance to really crank the audio up with a sub, and goddamn. Together with the cockpit/helmet depth of field/headturn, its a crazy experience.
Why can we set different anti-roll bar stiffnesses on so many production cars, but not on the Clio Cup... a car that actually really needs a stiffer front anti-roll bar??
And I've looked it up, rear has a solid axle, so it's correct that there are no anti-roll bar options there, but there should be for the front!
Wow.... I wish I had found this thread before I spent $60 bucks but oh well... I found a schema that works. This was posted over on Reddit and it's magical! These settings tested on PS4 Pro, your mileage may vary:
The RX Lites are really a great way to get into RX in the game. Not too spin happy, over powered, or heavy. Getting a good opportunity to really understand weight shift and getting that Scandinavian flick done right. Quick vid I took of a really satisfying example for me coming out of the building.
Just achieved a B safety rating. Seems a little easy, but all of my online races have been clean. The vast majority of players I see are still E or below so maybe it's not so easy for others. I've only seen around 3 players with an A rating and none have S ratings.
I am trying to figure out on what settings to (re-)start the career mode. I've had no luck with karting and formula rookie. I then tried that other lowest tier category (the name escapes me). The fastest I can go on that track is like 1:18:00 and the AI goes like 1:15-1:16.
I've had no issues in Project Cars 1 career.
What are the settings I should start with? Is there a way I can just drive, and the game will recommend me the settings for my skill level?
I started the career mode with Formula Rookie and finding the exact same thing. Can't take corners as fast as the AI and finding it difficult to even qualify past last place. Wasn't sure if it was the game, my setup or just me (pretty sure it wasn't me). Sounds like it isn't just me or my setup. Which is a relief I guess, but still really frustrating.
I know exactly what you mean. I've had to exercise a lot of self-control over the past few weeks but I'm glad I did. Assetto Corsa continues to give me everything I want right now in spades.
Just achieved a B safety rating. Seems a little easy, but all of my online races have been clean. The vast majority of players I see are still E or below so maybe it's not so easy for others. I've only seen around 3 players with an A rating and none have S ratings.
I guess you are a fast driver. I'm one of those guys between worlds that have good racecraft, but are mediocre. Basically I end up behind the fast guys. Always. In this environment, I'm near crashers and they indeed crash into me. So going up the ranks is hard because, even if I do a mint race from my side, I tend to finish with two or three car contacts.
Honestly the more I pop my head in this thread the happier I am I didn't jump too early, been playing Destiny 2 a lot anyway. But this game seems like they didn't learn much the first time around.
I've no idea why you continue to torture yourself like this until you know the issue is resolved. Park it up and play FM7 instead, then come back to pCARS 2 when it's fit for purpose. Your blood pressure will thank you.
I've no idea why you continue to torture yourself like this until you know the issue is resolved. Park it up and play FM7 instead, then come back to pCARS 2 when it's fit for purpose. Your blood pressure will thank you.
If you pay for a game, especially retail price at launch, you should expect to be able to at least play some part of it. Any ideas if this is a known issue?
Shame refunds on console aren't the same as Steam; pCARS 2 will be worth owning once many of the issues are fixed.
I've no idea why you continue to torture yourself like this until you know the issue is resolved. Park it up and play FM7 instead, then come back to pCARS 2 when it's fit for purpose. Your blood pressure will thank you.
If you pay for a game, especially retail price at launch, you should expect to be able to at least play some part of it. Any ideas if this is a known issue?
Shame refunds on console aren't the same as Steam; pCARS 2 will be worth owning once many of the issues are fixed.
Nobody is saying you don't play the game, but putting it on hold for a couple weeks or a month might be a good idea, given all the problems you're having.
I'm D now. I'm not playing all that much (son and wife are ill), but every race I get bumped by two or three guys. Still, a major improvement over what PC1 was. But I hope we start seeing less U/F and more E and above lobbies. At least F people will have a reason to start playing clean when they see most lobbies are blocked for them.
Thats what I mainly do, improving my times, doing some minor tuning and getting used to the feel of the game.
I noticed that theres a settings cog icon next to users times. Now correct me if im wrong, but when you click on it, it syncs their car settings and applies it to yours. That sounds like a cool feature!
I've done some TT using the Ferrari F40 LM on Monza and Sugo. If your playing on PC, check it out and have a go. Shouldnt be too hard to better, theres room for improvement.
Thats what I mainly do, improving my times, doing some minor tuning and getting used to the feel of the game.
I noticed that theres a settings cog icon next to users times. Now correct me if im wrong, but when you click on it, it syncs their car settings and applies it to yours. That sounds like a cool feature!
I've done some TT using the Ferrari F40 LM on Monza and Sugo. If your playing on PC, check it out and have a go. Shouldnt be too hard to better, theres room for improvement.
You can set the ghost and before start lapping you can see/modify/save the setup and even see the ghost racing the track. I prefer trying them that way.
I do a ton of time trials.. i think i got a 10th place on monza or something. I'm in love with community challenges too.
Nobody is saying you don't play the game, but putting it on hold for a couple weeks or a month might be a good idea, given all the problems you're having.