Haha, NO REFUGE!
On a serious note, I'm 100% sure I won't make it, but at least the line will get shortened substantially. Great news!
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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!
- Thread starter Mega
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Haha, NO REFUGE!
On a serious note, I'm 100% sure I won't make it, but at least the line will get shortened substantially. Great news!
I think you have to find your original subscription confirmation email and click the link at the bottom for changing your subscription settings. Once that page loads, your number will be in the URL near the end.
Check the confirmation email you got from VGP after signing in their newsletter, there's a link in there. The number after the second = should be your position in the waiting list, iirc.
(and beaten!)
gingerbeardman
Member
I have some coming in stock soon. Send me a PM.
MattyH
Member
sent
I believe they are past that (164 I think)? The new batch is of 500 so it should go up to somewhere around 664. I think he's giving those that didn't respond to the email for payment from last batch a second chance offer before continuing down the waiting list.
I know dude, right in the feels.
But hey, I'm the one just a few steps ahead, waving his hand at you.
Speaking of which, how does the actual purchase-phase work? Do they warn you in advance, or send you an email telling you 'it's your turn, you can buy it now', with some payment link?
NormalFish
Banned
Exactly right
I know dude, right in the feels.
But hey, I'm the one just a few steps ahead, waving his hand at you.
Speaking of which, how does the actual purchase-phase work? Do they warn you in advance, or send you an email telling you 'it's your turn, you can buy it now', with some payment link?
I'm not 100% sure but I'm guessing you get an initial email that you have to respond to if you're still interested and then either you get a link to purchase or some sort of PayPal invoice or something. I'm in the mid-to-late 700s, so unless quite a few people pass on this batch, I'm likely not getting mine before the holiday.
NormalFish
Banned
I'm 774 iirc, so also unlikely to be in this batch. If I end up lucking out, though, I've got the money waiting.
GAF, I just bought a Vizio D40U-D1. I heard some good things about the high speed HDMI port on this thing, and input lag/latency was my main purchasing factor in a new display, plus it supports OSSC's line triple mode. Anyone else have this set? I was hearing some praise on the system11 boards and wanted to see if anyone in the AV club had some opinions on this one.
I've been using the 15ft model of these without any problems.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI89IQS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I need some help from you all. I was looking into getting a new 4k HDR TV and had almost decided on the Samsung KS8000. However, I still play retro games fairly often, and I noticed that the KS8000 series only offers 4 HDMI inputs and zero composite or component inputs. I know it'll probably make many of you in here cringe to hear me say it, but I've been fine with playing my old systems just by plugging them into via composite or component cables. I'd like to still be able to do this while using a TV like the KS8000, but I don't know the best way to go about it.
What is the most effective and/or cost-efficient way for me to convert composite and component inputs to HDMI input in order to play retro games on a new TV? I've heard the XRGB Mini raved about on many sites and considered buying it once upon a time because I love retro gaming so much, but I think I'm a bit too tech-dumb to be able to get that to work without a step-by-step guide. Just glancing at some info about it makes my head spin with talk about JP-21, D-terminals, and Euro SCARTs, and I don't know if I'd be able to use it to its fullest extent on a TV with just HDMI inputs. However, I don't want to end up buying some composite-to-HDMI or component-to-HDMI converter that's cheaper but ends up being hot garbage.
I would really appreciate anyone who takes time to help me out with an answer, as long or short as it is.
What is the most effective and/or cost-efficient way for me to convert composite and component inputs to HDMI input in order to play retro games on a new TV? I've heard the XRGB Mini raved about on many sites and considered buying it once upon a time because I love retro gaming so much, but I think I'm a bit too tech-dumb to be able to get that to work without a step-by-step guide. Just glancing at some info about it makes my head spin with talk about JP-21, D-terminals, and Euro SCARTs, and I don't know if I'd be able to use it to its fullest extent on a TV with just HDMI inputs. However, I don't want to end up buying some composite-to-HDMI or component-to-HDMI converter that's cheaper but ends up being hot garbage.
I would really appreciate anyone who takes time to help me out with an answer, as long or short as it is.
PumpkinSpice
Banned
PCSX2 has a lot of little issues that require preparing for each and every game you play by checking compatibility settings and ensuring everything is working properly. Then you'll waste time fiddling with resolution settings, as even if your PC is very capable some games are more demanding than others and will require lower resolution settings.
PS2 is just... go. Very few of these games really benefit from higher resolutions anyway. They were all designed around 480 and play just fine (and look good!) at that resolution. Also at higher resolutions some of the effects that came across well at 480 look off and in some cases can be very distracting.
gingerbeardman
Member
It's a great PVM from 2001. It has Component and RGB over BNC, and more.
Brochure
https://cvp.com/pdf/sony_pvm-14_lseries_brch.pdf
Manual
http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4086475161.pdf
Photos of one running games:
http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?61926-Sony-PVM-14L3
Yeah I second this. My life in gaming's rgb master class series is fantastic.
So I pulled the trigger and bought a Sony PVM 1342Q from a seller on Ebay, should arrive by Friday next week.
Here's two pics:
Front
I have two bookshelf connected to A Lepy 2-channel amplifer which has a 3.5mm, as well as L/R RCA Audio ports.
Judging by the back panel of this PVM, what's the best way to connect the set to the Amp?
Two ways I foresee setting this up:
- Running a 3.5mm cable from one of the Audio Outs on the PVM and run that to the Amp, but then this would only be Mono, correct?
- Somehow use a SCART to L/R RCA adapter? Only briefly heard read about this and I may be talking nonsense so if someone could shed some light that would be greatly appreciated.
Okay.. now regarding the Video
I see there is a Line A and Line B section on the back of the PVM.. does there need to be any cable running in to either of these sections if I I'm connecting to the RGB ports?
I'll be hooking up a SNES with a SCART to BNC cable .. unless there's a better way?
It seemed like Line A and Line B are for non-rgb video?
All assistance is very appreciated!
UPDATE
I may have answered my own question when looking at these SCART to BNC cables which appear to have L/R RCA Jacks.. which cloud then go to my Amp.
I suppose that just leaves my question about the Line A and Line B sections on the bank of my PVM.
SECOND UPDATE
Looks like I answered my other question regarding the Line A and Line B.. I had trouble finding the manual for this PVM earlier but I tracked it down today no problem (not sure if I was just really tired before or what..)
They're just inputs like any other (ie: like HDMI, HDMI 2, VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, etc..) and you can cycle through them from the buttons on the front based on what source you're feeding it. In my case I'll just depress the RGB button on the front.
I'm tempted to delete my post because of how embarrassingly simple the answers were here, but I'll leave it here in case someone else stumbles upon the thread looking for the same answers
Here's two pics:
Front
Back
I have some questions I'm hoping some folks here could answer:
I have two bookshelf connected to A Lepy 2-channel amplifer which has a 3.5mm, as well as L/R RCA Audio ports.
Judging by the back panel of this PVM, what's the best way to connect the set to the Amp?
Two ways I foresee setting this up:
- Running a 3.5mm cable from one of the Audio Outs on the PVM and run that to the Amp, but then this would only be Mono, correct?
- Somehow use a SCART to L/R RCA adapter? Only briefly heard read about this and I may be talking nonsense so if someone could shed some light that would be greatly appreciated.
Okay.. now regarding the Video
I see there is a Line A and Line B section on the back of the PVM.. does there need to be any cable running in to either of these sections if I I'm connecting to the RGB ports?
I'll be hooking up a SNES with a SCART to BNC cable .. unless there's a better way?
It seemed like Line A and Line B are for non-rgb video?
All assistance is very appreciated!
UPDATE
I may have answered my own question when looking at these SCART to BNC cables which appear to have L/R RCA Jacks.. which cloud then go to my Amp.
I suppose that just leaves my question about the Line A and Line B sections on the bank of my PVM.
SECOND UPDATE
Looks like I answered my other question regarding the Line A and Line B.. I had trouble finding the manual for this PVM earlier but I tracked it down today no problem (not sure if I was just really tired before or what..)
They're just inputs like any other (ie: like HDMI, HDMI 2, VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, etc..) and you can cycle through them from the buttons on the front based on what source you're feeding it. In my case I'll just depress the RGB button on the front.
I'm tempted to delete my post because of how embarrassingly simple the answers were here, but I'll leave it here in case someone else stumbles upon the thread looking for the same answers
We were all where you are now at some point, no need to be embarrassed.
I think most of us split audio out with the SCART to BNC cable. Line A/B will just be composite. You're well on your way down the rabbit hole, congrats
No way I lived with lag all this time before...
This image is from a game called Haunting Ground or best game ever
In this section random colors appear and you just press when a color appear and not when it's blank.
I always just random click since It was impossible to see the color and press to land on it.
Until today. Played it on a crt and I can see the color and stop at it!!!
I'm a believer now!
And I think my TV only has 1-2 frames of lag but oh boy was I wrong to think it didn't matter.
This image is from a game called Haunting Ground or best game ever
In this section random colors appear and you just press when a color appear and not when it's blank.
I always just random click since It was impossible to see the color and press to land on it.
Until today. Played it on a crt and I can see the color and stop at it!!!
I'm a believer now!
And I think my TV only has 1-2 frames of lag but oh boy was I wrong to think it didn't matter.
No way I lived with lag all this time before...
This image is from a game called Haunting Ground or best game ever
In this section random colors appear and you just press when a color appear and not when it's blank.
I always just random click since It was impossible to see the color and press to land on it.
Until today. Played it on a crt and I can see the color and stop at it!!!
I'm a believer now!
And I think my TV only has 1-2 frames of lag but oh boy was I wrong to think it didn't matter.
Hey.
You answered a question of mine in another thread, and are you sure that the emulation of a PS1 game on a PS3 or Vita won't create any input lag? I'm aware that the TV makes a huge difference, but I'd like to know how much the emulation adds.
I really can't tell you, I would think the PSP would be the best since it doesn't upscale, but that is just a guess.
Someone with more knowledge here hopefully answers you.
EDIT: after searching for a bit it seems your best bet is a non hd CRT for input lag. If you don't want an old tv then your second choice would be a PS1 with a modern tv that doesn't have much lag, search google about lag and TV with neogaf to see a couple of threads and sites about the best tv to choose.
Emulation gives at least one frame of delay by default. Potentially more, that depends entirely on the emulator. Using a wireless controller you're likely to add delay as well.
Thanks for clearing that up. Do you know if the PS2 adds lag as well?
NormalFish
Banned
the PS2 contains enough PS1 hardware to run the vast majority of the PS1 library natively without issue. There are a few titles that have issues, and some titles just simply don't work, but generally it's just a PS1 with more functionality.
Thanks, think I'll go with that then.
Thanks for these links. I think I've got the gist of it, but there's one thing I may be confused about that I'd like to have cleared up. I'm at the point where I don't really care to do any RGB console modding or anything like that and just want to be able to simply plug my composite cables or component cables into the XRGB-Mini and then plug it into the HDMI slot on my 4k TV so I can play my old games.
Here's the confused part. It seems as simple as plugging composite cables into the front of the XRGB-Mini and then plugging the HDMI from the Mini into my TV, and that will take care of the vast majority of my retro consoles. However, there are 2 of my consoles that use component cables, the PS2 and the Gamecube, and there are no component-in slots on the XRGB-Mini. In the MyGamingLife video, they say what's used is a D-terminal input. Will I be able to plug my component cables into a Component-to-D-terminal adapter, plug that adapter into the XRGB-Mini, and then plug that into the TV in order to play PS2 and Gamecube? If that's the case, is this the cable I'll need?
If I decide to buy the XRGB-Mini, where do you all recommend I buy it from? Also, is there a trusted person you can buy the Mini from who will test it out to make sure it works, update the firmware, and then send it to you? I really don't trust myself with things like this, even with how-to videos.
Flizzzipper
Member
That is the cable you need. That same site, Solaris Japan is the best place to order from and you can bundle the D-Terminal. It also seems they now have the option to get one with a EURO Scart adapter instead of JP21. Link I don't know about the firmware update thing, you'd probably have to find something like that on ebay.
Framemeister seems like overkill for someone not utilizing RGB though, I guess it just depends on what consoles you are hooking up. Component will look great. Composite will look bad even through the framemeister although I believe it will likely have less lag than a cheap converter. And most can output rgb already you just need to get a cable.
NormalFish
Banned
If you're not going to use a high quality video signal in to the framemeister, don't spend 300$ or whatever on one. It's not worth it. Look in to cheaper line doublers, "composite/component to HDMI" boxes, etc.
Yep. "I bought a Ferrari 458, but I all I'm to fill it with is moon shine for fuel and tar for oil." Is kinda what I read there.
RadarScope1
Member
Agree with D.Lo. Just because you can't get everything all at once, don't bother doing anything? Sounds like the U.S. Congress! Taking steps toward a goal is OK. And yes, it's an upgrade in and of itself for many setups.
Shin Johnpv
Member
I'm going to agree with this. Even sending the FM Composite, or S-Video is going to look better than the upscaler from most tvs, and its definitely going to look better and have less lag than those shitty cheap upscalers.
NormalFish
Banned
sounded more like he wasn't interested in getting more, rather than getting the pieces slowly.
I would've just bought a cheap upscaler, but I was worried about the lag that it might cause. I wouldn't be against trying to learn more about RGB upgrades and maybe work toward that on some consoles that are the easiest to set that up for. I'm not willing to get into soldering or doing any kind of work like that on my consoles, but simpler stuff isn't out of the question. Thanks for all the responses. I'm leaning toward ordering the Mini, the component-to-D-terminal adapter, and an English remote overlay, but I'll think it over for a few more days I guess.
NormalFish
Banned
A line doubler might serve you better. I'm not sure if there's one that takes the variety of inputs that the framemeister has that's still available, though. Not my area of expertise.
Flizzzipper
Member
The NES and N64 are the popular ones that need modded. The Genesis, SNES Playstation 1/2, Saturn, Master System will output RGB if you get a cable, simple as that. Definitely worth it if you get a framemeister.
They said they were just interested in in composite or component. Just whatever is more easily available to plug into. So it does sound like they weren't taking steps toward the RGB goal.
A line multiplier has no lag. As good as the mini is, it still has quirks. So it is best to reasonably minimize image artifacts from the source by feeding the mini RGB or at least component where possible. A lot of consoles require no modifications for either RGB or component. For example: ALL Sega home consoles output RGB out of the box. Meanwhile, the N64 and NES do require mods. Pursuit of RGB is different depending on console so I would suggest that you really should keep it in mind and not rule it out if you're gonna spend money on the FM.
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