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Stuck in the Past - a 33 RPM thread for vinyl listeners and collectors

RDreamer

Member
One of my pet peeves of listening to vinyl was that I wasn't able to scrobble my plays onto Last.fm (I know..). I've started using CogScrobbler to manually scrobble my plays and it's been working like a charm. You can save albums to your own personal library to make re-scrobbling the tracks easy for the future. dope stuff.

Cool. I'll check it out. Well, I'll check out the mac version someone ported over. Normally when I play my vinyl (or anything that can't get automatically scrobbled like a 5.1 disc or even a cd in my surround sound) I just stream it on Mog at the same time on my phone or computer with the sound all the way down. Not a great solution, but it's worked.

I've never heard of scrobble? What exactly does it do?

It's last.fm. Basically you get an account and then connect it to your itunes or spotify or Mog or whatever you use to do music (or all of what you use to do music) and it keeps track of how many times you listen to what you're listening to. It also gives recommendations and things like that based on what you've listened to.
 

amnesiac

Member
What sleeves do you guys use? The cardboard sleeves that most new vinyl come with today scuff up my records. I'm thinking of getting MoFis or Disckeepers.
 
What sleeves do you guys use? The cardboard sleeves that most new vinyl come with today scuff up my records. I'm thinking of getting MoFis or Disckeepers.

Innersleeves? Just regular paper sleeves. MoFI's and Disckeepers seem like a good choice if you in reality hate listening to records and want to drive yourself nuts.
 
Is a special kind needed?

Depends on how much dislike surface noise etc. I buy tons of used records every week and I just don't buy a record that isn't salvageable with regular means unless it's a bargain for a record I really really want. Surface noise doesn't bother that much though.
 

amnesiac

Member
Innersleeves? Just regular paper sleeves. MoFI's and Disckeepers seem like a good choice if you in reality hate listening to records and want to drive yourself nuts.

I personally don't like spending $20+ on a record then having them be scuffed from a paper sleeve.
 
I personally don't like spending $20+ on a record then having them be scuffed from a paper sleeve.

Riiiight. I got +$100 records on paper sleeves. I know people with +500$ records on the paper sleeves they came in with. Vinyl in general like you know is susceptible to all kinds of damage, but it isn't really a delicate piece that must be handled with velvet gloves and such. Biggest culprit of vinyl getting fucked is mishandling it. It's good to be paranoid with the records, but they don't really self destruct on your shelves or in your hands if held.
 
Depends on how much dislike surface noise etc. I buy tons of used records every week and I just don't buy a record that isn't salvageable with regular means unless it's a bargain for a record I really really want. Surface noise doesn't bother that much though.

what kind of brush do you use?
 
what kind of brush do you use?

A basic anti-static brush like this:

1278495393_brushit_w450_h400.jpg
 

omgkitty

Member
So I'm thinking about buying one of these: http://gettheorbit.com/?utm_source=U-Turn&utm_campaign=77d5a78e07-phase%201%20relaunch&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_af3bc9c8b8-77d5a78e07-57302741

+black.jpeg


So what's the difference between the Basic and the Plus and is it worth $100 more? Here's the description, which says nothing to me:

What is the difference between the Orbit Basic and Orbit Plus?

The Orbit Basic comes with an MDF platter and an Ortofon Omega cartridge. The Orbit Plus comes with an acrylic platter and an Ortofon OM-5e cartridge.
 
Dunno if the cartridge is that much better, but MDF is your basic wood fibreboard and acrylic is well acrylic. Dunno if that brings any improvements to the sound, but doubtful.
 

Borgnine

MBA in pussy licensing and rights management
I personally don't like spending $20+ on a record then having them be scuffed from a paper sleeve.

I wouldn't worry too much about a few atoms brushing up against each other when you're driving a diamond tipped spear directly in to the side of it.

Ken Masters said:
What's the best way to clean dust of records? Is a brush a good idea?

Run the brush Petrip posted over the any record before you play it. If you've got some really grimey bargain bin stuff I use white board cleaner and a paper towel to bring it back to life. It's pretty gross sometimes, especially if it's from the 60s or 70s cause it's got hashish resin all up in the grooves.
 

ngower

Member
Hello,

Last summer I had to sell my turntable to make ends meet. Since then, my records have just been hanging out, sobbing themselves to sleep from neglect. I'm not sure I'll have the means to buy a turntable in the near future, and I'm kinda dreading moving them long-distance. I'm wondering if anyone has experience selling 100+ records individually, and wanted to know if it was even worth all the time and effort? I'm looking at discogs and ebay as my primary methods of selling, and I know that could be a gigantic hassle given shipping and everything.
 
Hello,

Last summer I had to sell my turntable to make ends meet. Since then, my records have just been hanging out, sobbing themselves to sleep from neglect. I'm not sure I'll have the means to buy a turntable in the near future, and I'm kinda dreading moving them long-distance. I'm wondering if anyone has experience selling 100+ records individually, and wanted to know if it was even worth all the time and effort? I'm looking at discogs and ebay as my primary methods of selling, and I know that could be a gigantic hassle given shipping and everything.

Buy some proper record mailers and the shipping process will be much easier. Keep the prices cheap-ish to make sure that people buy multiple records at time
 
Run the brush Petrip posted over the any record before you play it. If you've got some really grimey bargain bin stuff I use white board cleaner and a paper towel to bring it back to life. It's pretty gross sometimes, especially if it's from the 60s or 70s cause it's got hashish resin all up in the grooves.

Everytime I'm close to getting a brush I read reviews of the brush leaving fibers in the records and even scratching it, then I get too scared to buy it
 

Borgnine

MBA in pussy licensing and rights management
Everytime I'm close to getting a brush I read reviews of the brush leaving fibers in the records and even scratching it, then I get too scared to buy it

Unless you were looking at some weird or cheap brush this is likely just audiophiles jerking themselves off. Part of vinyl collecting is knowing when to tune them out. Just get a basic brush like the one Petrip posted. I have the same one, though it's branded differently, it doesn't leave fibers and it doesn't scratch.

http://youtu.be/zQO4iPJYLwE
 
Why would you want to? Wear and tear on an LP sleeve is beautiful. That's personality, it has a story and its own history.
I agree with this too. I guess I should have clarified a bit. I've got a few albums that just feel dusty and grimey. I was wondering if there was a safe way to clean them up a bit.
 

wenis

Registered for GAF on September 11, 2001.
It sounds good! I gave it a listen today and just chilled on my couch. Looking forward to Sigur Ros next week.

I use this to clean my records. It lasts forever and gives the records a proper cleaning.

Is that just a spray? What's the consistency like and proper method for cleaning?
 

andylsun

Member
So I can get a technics SL 1500 for 90 euros. Good deal?
$(KGrHqIOKp0FGQwBTl8HBRmgf41GQw~~60_85.JPG

Don't panic if the auto functions or speed change controls don't work straight away. The grease tends to go sticky after many years, and you may need to take it apart, clean off all the old grease and replace with fresh. The speed adjustment pots will need spraying with Deoxit to clean them out. Get the service manual from vinylengine.

Should be good for decades after this.

Budget for a new stylus regardless even if the current one sounds good, unless you know exactly how many hours are on it.

Edit: SL-1500 is non-suspended - never mind. The springs may need adjusting if it's sat for a long time. (I think the SL-1500 is suspended, my SL1650 and SL1700 are). Get a 7mm long reach socket and tighten/loosen until the bouce is even.
 

andylsun

Member
OK, I have my own Technics hunt question,

SL-1900 for $75, you think I should jump on it?

You might do better if you wait. My SL-1700 was $20 off boston craigslist a couple of years ago and my SL-1650 was $10 at a local humane society flea market last year (along with a Thorens for $20, but that's a story for another day). I did luck into a SL-1200MKII for $40 but that won't happen again...

The SL-1900 was below the 1300/1400/1500 and 1600/1700/1800 ranges in terms of quality. Worth hanging on for SL-1800 or better.
 
You might do better if you wait. My SL-1700 was $20 off boston craigslist a couple of years ago and my SL-1650 was $10 at a local humane society flea market last year (along with a Thorens for $20, but that's a story for another day). I did luck into a SL-1200MKII for $40 but that won't happen again...

The SL-1900 was below the 1300/1400/1500 and 1600/1700/1800 ranges in terms of quality. Worth hanging on for SL-1800 or better.

Thanks, it didn't really register aesthetically for me either, and I am not familiar enough with the model nomenclature to know which models are a steal or just mediocre.
 

andylsun

Member
Thanks, it didn't really register aesthetically for me either, and I am not familiar enough with the model nomenclature to know which models are a steal or just mediocre.

The SL-1900 looks awful compared to the others.

Here's a list of all technics TT's with their original price. It gives a good idea of the order of the lineup.

http://www.vintagetechnics.co.uk/turntables.htm

Full Automatic variants may require more work to get them fully operational, but can normally be used in manual mode.

Don't underestimate some of the Sony TT's. The PS-X5,6,7 are good (I have a 7) and usually go for cheaper than the Technics as they are not as well known.
 
Don't panic if the auto functions or speed change controls don't work straight away. The grease tends to go sticky after many years, and you may need to take it apart, clean off all the old grease and replace with fresh. The speed adjustment pots will need spraying with Deoxit to clean them out. Get the service manual from vinylengine.

Should be good for decades after this.

Budget for a new stylus regardless even if the current one sounds good, unless you know exactly how many hours are on it.

Edit: SL-1500 is non-suspended - never mind. The springs may need adjusting if it's sat for a long time. (I think the SL-1500 is suspended, my SL1650 and SL1700 are). Get a 7mm long reach socket and tighten/loosen until the bouce is even.


Mmmhmmm, yeah, mmhmm. I know some of these words.

Jk, but yeah, although i have been into vinyl for a while I'm not well versed on record players and so on but I elk try to study what you said. Thanks! :)


Now the guy says that he tested the record player and it seems like it's working worse than he thought and that the needle is broken so he will lower the price to 75 euros. Should I be worried? Is there something I should really check to make sure I'm not being ripped off? I'm on my way to pick it up so if you guys can help me fast I would really appreciate it! :)

How much would a new needle be?
 

andylsun

Member
Mmmhmmm, yeah, mmhmm. I know some of these words.

Jk, but yeah, although i have been into vinyl for a while I'm not well versed on record players and so on but I elk try to study what you said. Thanks! :)


Now the guy says that he tested the record player and it seems like it's working worse than he thought and that the needle is broken so he will lower the price to 75 euros. Should I be worried? Is there something I should really check to make sure I'm not being ripped off? I'm on my way to pick it up so if you guys can help me fast I would really appreciate it! :)

How much would a new needle be?

Sorry if this is USA centric, but new needle and cartridge can be quite cheap (e.g. Red Ed, or a generic stylus for a M91ED cart) around $20 or so. Shure M97XE Cart and Stylus is $50 from amazon. Needles on their own can be more than the cost of a new stylus and cartridge. Couldn't tell what is on there already. I would look at some of the popular web sites once you know the make of cartridge to see how much a new stylus would cost.

Make sure the platter spins (move the tonearm to start the table) and is steady - check the strobe dots are static. Make sure the tonearm moves freely and isn't noisy or catching on anything. Having the dust cover is usually a good sign that it's been cared for well, and the rubber mat looks original. Looks like a tidy SL-1500 from what I can see.

Check the condition of the RCA leads and grounding wire, make sure they aren't chewed or damaged in some way.
 
Sorry if this is USA centric, but new needle and cartridge can be quite cheap (e.g. Red Ed, or a generic stylus for a M91ED cart) around $20 or so. Shure M97XE Cart and Stylus is $50 from amazon. Needles on their own can be more than the cost of a new stylus and cartridge. Couldn't tell what is on there already. I would look at some of the popular web sites once you know the make of cartridge to see how much a new stylus would cost.

Make sure the platter spins (move the tonearm to start the table) and is steady - check the strobe dots are static. Make sure the tonearm moves freely and isn't noisy or catching on anything. Having the dust cover is usually a good sign that it's been cared for well, and the rubber mat looks original. Looks like a tidy SL-1500 from what I can see.

Check the condition of the RCA leads and grounding wire, make sure they aren't chewed or damaged in some way.

Thanks a lot! Yeah, I think it looks like it's been well taken care of from the pictures. I will check it in person in a few minutes and if it seems to work fine except for the needle then I will buy it. :)
 
OK, I just left and ended up not buying it, it was kinda fishy.
The guy told me he just noticed today that the player was not working but he had just bought a new record player recently. Weird.

Everything looked fine on first impression but the once you would turn on the record the needle would skip like crazy. I also could not manage to make the strobe dots static in either 33 or 45 rpm. The tonearm seemed like it was working OK so my first guess is that the needle needs changing but I did not want to buy it without making sure it's not something else.

I know it's probably difficult for you guys to advise with such a poor description of the problem but what do you think might be wrong with the plate?
 

andylsun

Member
OK, I just left and ended up not buying it, it was kinda fishy.
The guy told me he just noticed today that the player was not working but he had just bought a new record player recently. Weird.

Everything looked fine on first impression but the once you would turn on the record the needle would skip like crazy. I also could not manage to make the strobe dots static in either 33 or 45 rpm. The tonearm seemed like it was working OK so my first guess is that the needle needs changing but I did not want to buy it without making sure it's not something else.

I know it's probably difficult for you guys to advise with such a poor description of the problem but what do you think might be wrong with the plate?

I think walking away is the right thing to do - sorry for the wasted trip. Part of the trick of buying used turntables is knowing when to not buy it.

Skipping needle could be that the counterbalance wasn't set correctly, or that the anti-skate was set wrong.

The strobe dots probably indicate the speed pots were dirty, did it make any difference if you twisted them?
 
I think walking away is the right thing to do - sorry for the wasted trip. Part of the trick of buying used turntables is knowing when to not buy it.

Skipping needle could be that the counterbalance wasn't set correctly, or that the anti-skate was set wrong.

The strobe dots probably indicate the speed pots were dirty, did it make any difference if you twisted them?

Yeah, I feel that way. The guy lowered the price to €65 even but I just don't want to buy something broken, who knows how much it will cost me to repair it.

I played with the strobe dots a bit and they would change speed when twisting them but I could not manage to keep them static. Also, if I would just leave it spinning the strobe dots would sometimes it seemed like they would go faster and sometimes slower but I have no clue if that's normal or not.

But, from your posts it seems like you think it might be more a matter of not having the turntable set right rather than it being broken. Is that right?
 

-Mikey-

Member
Is that just a spray? What's the consistency like and proper method for cleaning?

Yep, it's a spray. I would say it's like Windex. It doesn't run and there isn't an odor to it. I usually spray it 3 times per side and wipe it off with the small cloth that comes with it. I would hit up ebay for everyone living in the states.
 

andylsun

Member
Yeah, I feel that way. The guy lowered the price to €65 even but I just don't want to buy something broken, who knows how much it will cost me to repair it.

I played with the strobe dots a bit and they would change speed when twisting them but I could not manage to keep them static. Also, if I would just leave it spinning the strobe dots would sometimes it seemed like they would go faster and sometimes slower but I have no clue if that's normal or not.

But, from your posts it seems like you think it might be more a matter of not having the turntable set right rather than it being broken. Is that right?


This text below applies to technics SL models. Other manufacturers can do very different things (e.g Sony Xtal lock) where if a TT won't hold speed, then it's normally fatal and can't be fixed. Sony TT's use a magnetic stripe on the inside of the platter to control speed, if that's damaged you are done and have a new paperweight/doorstop.

Speed variation can be dirty speed control potentiometers if you are lucky. That's an easy fix with deoxit spray (after taking the TT apart). usually adjusting the speed pots will get the TT to be stable at a speed even if it's the wrong speed.

If it's not that, it could be problems in the control circuit, and unless you are really into it, that's normally more effort than it's worth. You need an oscilloscope to debug the control circuit in direct drive TT's.

If it was never stable at any speed despite adjusting the speed pots, then walking away was the right thing to do.

Not sure why the needle was skipping everywhere, but that could be setup or the sign of some problems in the tonearm.

If the person selling is shifty and the reason they are selling it doesn't really match up (why buy a new TT unless it's an upgrade?) then good to not buy it. Another one will come along.
 
This text below applies to technics SL models. Other manufacturers can do very different things (e.g Sony Xtal lock) where if a TT won't hold speed, then it's normally fatal and can't be fixed. Sony TT's use a magnetic stripe on the inside of the platter to control speed, if that's damaged you are done and have a new paperweight/doorstop.

Speed variation can be dirty speed control potentiometers if you are lucky. That's an easy fix with deoxit spray (after taking the TT apart). usually adjusting the speed pots will get the TT to be stable at a speed even if it's the wrong speed.

If it's not that, it could be problems in the control circuit, and unless you are really into it, that's normally more effort than it's worth. You need an oscilloscope to debug the control circuit in direct drive TT's.

If it was never stable at any speed despite adjusting the speed pots, then walking away was the right thing to do.

Not sure why the needle was skipping everywhere, but that could be setup or the sign of some problems in the tonearm.

If the person selling is shifty and the reason they are selling it doesn't really match up (why buy a new TT unless it's an upgrade?) then good to not buy it. Another one will come along.

Thank you very much for your help. I will tell him to repair it himself and I will pay for the turntable plus the reparation. If he does not do it then I'll pass.
 
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