Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

All of a sudden, I keep getting webpage crashes and "Something went wrong while displaying this webpage" error while browsing online. I'm on Chrome, wasn't having this issue yesterday

Edit: also only seems to be happening on Chrome, pages load fine on Firefox and IE
 
Acer laptop is saying

Code: 
No Bootable Device. Hit any key.

Took out the hard drive and reseated it, same message pops up. BIOS recognized before and after the reseating.

I swapped in an old drive from when I upgraded another laptop to SSD. I get the same error. This HDD had the old drivers and Windows installation on it, so maybe that was the issue there. This drive also showed up in BIOS.

Thoughts on what to do next? Is there a recommended software bundle I could throw on my USB drive to do some testing on the HDD?

EDIT:
Created a bootable USB. Tested it on my laptop, shows up in the boot menu and loads UBCD Live just fine. Does not show up in the boot list of the Acer, despite the BIOS supported USB FDD and USB HDD booting. Now I'm definitely stumped.
 
Pocks said:
Code: 
No Bootable Device. Hit any key.

BIOS recognized before and after the reseating.

EDIT:
Created a bootable USB. Tested it on my laptop, shows up in the boot menu and loads UBCD Live just fine. Does not show up in the boot list of the Acer, despite the BIOS supported USB FDD and USB HDD booting. Now I'm definitely stumped.
Click to expand...
Are you using Windows 8, 8.1, or 10? If yes check the BIOS to see if it's using UEFI or Legacy mode. If it's on Legacy mode you'll get that error message. Your Hard Drive showing up in the BIOS is weird, it probably means it's an OS problem. Also make sure to check what your boot order is set to first if you want to boot from USB

More_Badass said:
All of a sudden, I keep getting webpage crashes and "Something went wrong while displaying this webpage" error while browsing online. I'm on Chrome, wasn't having this issue yesterday

Edit: also only seems to be happening on Chrome, pages load fine on Firefox and IE
Click to expand...
If it's only happening in Chrome then it's a chrome problem. Reinstalling chrome will probably fix it but it could also be a Chrome extension causing it so check your extensions.

Mineshaft_Gap said:
I was getting temps close to 90 (high 80s) in Crisis 3. My noticing of the high temps using the MSI Afterburner OSD is what led to my discovery of the issue in the first place.
Click to expand...
Were you the one that put the old thermal paste on? If so, is there any possibility that you put too much and or too little and it has dried out? You should also make sure that the screws are screwed in tight enough, it may have randomly loosened.
 
Jzero said:
Are you using Windows 8, 8.1, or 10? If yes check the bios to see if it's using UEFI or Legacy mode. If it's on Legacy mode you'll get that message. Your
Hard Drive showing up in the BIOS probably means it's an OS problem
Click to expand...

I appreciate the response. BIOS indicates the following: Boot Mode: [UEFI]

USB FDD and USB HDD are both listed below in the boot priority menu. The boot menu (F12) shows nothing when restarting the computer.

My next step would be to try an actual CD with Ulimate Boot CD on it, but I won't be able to get a blank CD for a couple of days.

EDIT: Hmm, switching it to Legacy mode actually allows me to boot from the USB. It's a start!

EDIT2: OK, I ran GSmartControl via UBCD. Short Test and Extended Test both immediately returned a read failure on the drive. I assume that indicates that the drive is toasted, and a reinstall of Windows won't address the issue. Time to buy an SSD?
 
Pocks said:
EDIT:
Created a bootable USB. Tested it on my laptop, shows up in the boot menu and loads UBCD Live just fine. Does not show up in the boot list of the Acer, despite the BIOS supported USB FDD and USB HDD booting. Now I'm definitely stumped.
Click to expand...
About this, sometime it's strange...

One of my students had a laptop issue. I created a bootable USB using a software (LiLi), he did the same. We used the same iso for this.

My USB key works on his laptop. His won't.

Both work on my own laptop.

Go figure... Some USB drive makers can have issues with some laptop brands, it seems.
 
Well now, this is a new one for me.

Went' to play some GW2, and discovered that I had no video, and my usb keyboard wasn't showing any lights.

Figured at first it was my KVM switch, but directly connecting a spare usb keyboard and directly connecting the monitor had no effect: still no video or usb.

Fans turn on, for all devices, and I see the ethernet lights on. tried unplugging everything not essential, no effect.

Thought it it's ether the powersupply, gpu, or motherboard. The fact that usb also doesn't work has me heading in the psu or motherboard area. I don't hear any beeps, but i'm actually not sure I even have a pc speaker installed.

CPU: 2600k, stock speeds
CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-750TX power supply
ASUS P8Z68-V motherboard
XFX Radeon 290x
Mushkin DDR3 1600 x 16 gigs


Some of those parts are 5+ years old, they may just be wearing out.
 
Got a networking issue, which is my least favorite kind of problem. Basically every once in a while, multiple times per day, all internet traffic on all my devices will stop. If you're streaming something it'll stop loading, if you're browsing a webpage it'll never load, if you're playing a game online it'll freeze. Happens to all my devices simultaneously so it's easy to pick out. The thing is, I don't know who to blame: my ISP, my router, or my modem. Is there like network monitoring software I could use to analyze the dropouts in real time, and is there a way to help narrow down the issue when my current router and modem when that's the only equipment I have? I can't sub anything else in for testing

Router has multiple Ethernet ports so I guess I can start there and see if when everything else goes down if wired does as well, but it's so unpredictable. Modem only has one Ethernet port so if I take it over for testing nothing else in the house is getting internet

Router: Apple AirPort Time Capsule 2TB (official refurbished, purchased May)
Modem: Arris Surfboard SB6190
ISP: Comcast 150Mbps

Edit: ran two ping tests while etherneted into my router for 24hrs, one to the router itself and one to google.com. The router one when swimmingly, no dropped packets and a max of 22ms. The Google one was mostly good, but there were several pockets of dropped packets and in one instance ping as high as 2800ms. Found my issue, it's either my modem or Comcast. I'm betting Comcast
 
Hey guys, I don't know what happened but today I noticed that Windows said I only have 8GB of RAM available (should be 16GB). So I checked CPU-Z and it says 16GB, and then I checked my BIOS which says 8GB. So then I tested each stick one by one and they boot up fine and memtest86 shows no errors.

Then I noticed my CPU overclock in my BIOS was gone. I've been running my 3570K at 4.3 GHz for the past few years, but now the CPU ratio is stuck at 34. I can't raise it past 34 no matter what I do (it used to be 43 no problem). So I tried flashing the latest BIOS, I tried resetting CMOS, none of it worked.

I have no idea what to do now. Is my motherboard dying/dead? I guess it's not a huge deal since everything seems to still work fine, just that I'm missing half my RAM and I can't overclock anymore lol

I uploaded some pictures of my BIOS below:

o2CQgQq.jpg

tiJnFiE.jpg

F7np8pX.jpg
Click to expand...

Relevant specs of computer:
Intel i3570K CPU
Asus Z77 Sabertooth motherboard
Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR3 RAM
 
I just forwarded a port from my router to my HTPC so I can access it remotely using SSH and VNC. Remote access does work, but if I try to connect to it while in the same network, the connection is refused. What could be the reason for that? Which setting on my router do I have to change?

Note: Of course, I can connect to it if I use the internal IP/port. But it should work with the external IP and the forwarded port as well.
 
I was doing a maintenance check on my Grandparent's Windows 10 laptop (upgraded from 7), and whenever I click "Updates & Security" in Settings, the Settings window closes on its own. Also, I tried running Startup Automatic Repair, as suggested in one of my search results, and got a BSOD with the error WDF_VIOLATION.

I've tried sfc /scannow in the command prompt, and ran an error check on the hard drive. When I start the computer in safe mode, the Settings windows still closes when I try to update. Please advise. I'll provide more information if needed.
 
Hi, help!

I'm having trouble maintaining good FPS in many games (GTA V, Overwatch, Just Cause 3, etc.... not Doom (Vulkan) tho for some reason). Where it used to be 60 FPS, it's now 20-30 FPS, and I have no idea what's causing it but recently I did two things to my computer:

1. I got a new SSD and moved some games there (but not all, and some games are still on the old SSD, and are crap).
2. Overclocked the graphics card (and games seemed to work fine at the time, and I have tried to revert to base clock).

I've tried reinstalling the video drivers from scratch, checked that V-sync is off, opened up my computer to check any cables (hey, I'm desperate).
 
What are your CPU temperatures under load?


Ambitious said:
I just forwarded a port from my router to my HTPC so I can access it remotely using SSH and VNC. Remote access does work, but if I try to connect to it while in the same network, the connection is refused. What could be the reason for that? Which setting on my router do I have to change?

Note: Of course, I can connect to it if I use the internal IP/port. But it should work with the external IP and the forwarded port as well.
Click to expand...
Most routers won't handle port forwarding for a device using the external ip from the same network very well. I don't think there is a setting you can change to fix this.
 
Hey guys, I saw this video the other day:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frNjT5R5XI4

Seeing how much of a performance boost I could get just by upgrading my ram, I bought these sticks today:

http://www.corsair.com/en/vengeance...ram-2400mhz-c11-memory-kit-cmy8gx3m2a2400c11r

Thing is, so far I've been able to push my Core I5 2500K to a x41 multiplier, with a voltage of 1.325v, and my ram up to 1866mhz. Setting it any higher, or enabling XMP makes the system crash at bios. My Mobo is a Gigabyte p67a-ud4-b3, any suggestions on how to get more speed out of my ram?
 
I'm having an issue where my PC seems to crash when the GPU temperature goes over 75. It's a full instant reset. Like the PC lost power.

The build is about 18 months old although I'm only having this issue for the last few weeks. Games that used to run fine (Marvel Heroes, Witcher 3 etc.) are now crashing the PC. If I'm not playing games etc then there are no obvious issues.

I'm don't have a huge amount of experience with building PCs or troubleshooting them so any ideas would be helpful.

Could PSU be the issue? If so is there any reason I would be getting these issues now when it worked previously? Details of the spec below.

Thanks in advance.

CPU i5-4690 (3.5GHz) 6MB Cache
Motherboard ASUS® Z97-A
RAM 8GB KINGSTON DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (1 x 8GB)
GPU 4GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 970
Power Supply CORSAIR 450W VS SERIES™ VS-450

Edit: To be clear I did run Furmark after a few crashes and suspecting it was GPU related. Noticed that the PC consistently crashes once the GPU hits 75 using Furmark.
 
Thank you in advance, any help would be appreciated.

I have this HTPC...

Motherboard:FM2A88X-ITX+
CPU:A10 7850K APU
RAM: 1600MHz Crucial Ballistix Tactical
GPU: Onboard
Storage: Kingston SSDNow 120GB
OS: Win10 64bit


I was having issues with BSOD after upgrading to W10. Searches online told me that the v.3.40 Bios update made the motherboard play nicer with SSDs and W10.

I booted into UEFI and did the auto BIOS update. It connected to ASRock servers and updated itself.

Now it will not boot. It flashes the ASrock logo for half a second and then gives me a black screen with a single flashing prompt.

I reset the CMOS and it did not help.

I disconnected the SSD, and it will boot to UEFI.

I put the SSD in another computer and it works, so I know it's not the issue.

I created an Ubuntu boot disk and tried to boot from USB and got the same black screen...

If I connect the SSD and spam delete on boot and hit it just right, it'll go the UEFI instead of the black screen, but nothing I do there seems to affect whether I can boot the OS or not...


Any ideas?


EDIT:

Nevermind.

I downloaded the instantflash version of the BIOS from the ASrock website and forced it to reinstall through UEFI. It fixed the issues, looks like the previous install was bad.

Thanks anyway.
 
Hikari_Ryu said:
Hey guys, I saw this video the other day:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frNjT5R5XI4

Seeing how much of a performance boost I could get just by upgrading my ram, I bought these sticks today:

http://www.corsair.com/en/vengeance...ram-2400mhz-c11-memory-kit-cmy8gx3m2a2400c11r

Thing is, so far I've been able to push my Core I5 2500K to a x41 multiplier, with a voltage of 1.325v, and my ram up to 1866mhz. Setting it any higher, or enabling XMP makes the system crash at bios. My Mobo is a Gigabyte p67a-ud4-b3, any suggestions on how to get more speed out of my ram?
Click to expand...
I have a different mobo and I have the same RAM problem. It detects the profile accurately, but when attempting to enable XMP profiles or OC the CPU a touch, crashes the system. My OS is Windows 7 SP1. Doubt that matters, but I thought it was my mobo until I saw your post.
 
Hey guys. Built a new PC and ran into some issues.

My build. Currently it'll turn on, no signal to monitor, and after a little bit it'll restart. Repeat until I shut it off myself.

So far just tried booting it without the graphics card, same issue. Cleared CMOS, still getting it. Going to try updating the BIOS when I get home, but what other things could cause this?

Thanks in advance.
 
pablito said:
Hey guys. Built a new PC and ran into some issues.

My build. Currently it'll turn on, no signal to monitor, and after a little bit it'll restart. Repeat until I shut it off myself.

So far just tried booting it without the graphics card, same issue. Cleared CMOS, still getting it. Going to try updating the BIOS when I get home, but what other things could cause this?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
It sounds like it could be anything. Can you even get to BIOS? Your first goal should be that and you get there through trial and error. Switching parts around until it works and you single out the issue/component.

-Make sure everything is connected properly.
-Try booting with the bare minimum (PSU/CPU/CPU_FAN/RAM/Keyboard/Monitor)
-Try switching out the PSU for one that is known to work.
-Try booting with a single stick of RAM.
 
So I think my water pump died? Worked fine for monthes until I move just this week, finally got around to setting up my comp and then this...

IMG_0165.JPG


Any one have any experience with the H100i v2?
 
Running into big issues this week, suddenly.

Chrome tabs start crashing in unison, I can refresh each one to recover.
Then a blue screen with a Memory Management error occurs.

Tips on how I diagnose the cause?
 
Zepp Twofist said:
What are your CPU temperatures under load?



Most routers won't handle port forwarding for a device using the external ip from the same network very well. I don't think there is a setting you can change to fix this.
Click to expand...

Is that so? Interesting. I would have assumed this kind of behavior would be consistent amongst routers, maybe even standardized somewhere. But it did indeed work with my previous router.
 
Hi, need help with audio problems I'm getting on my PC.

Switched on the PC this morning and all of a sudden there's no audio, the sound bar indicates there's sound coming out of the HDMI and it's set as default but there's nothing coming out of the TV.
soundoysmw.png

I've tried everything, resetting the PC, uninstalling and installing drivers, taking out the graphics card and plugging it back in, nothing works at the moment. Looking through google most solutions suggest setting the HDMI as default but that's the first thing I did and there's not much else I can find to solve this issue. I'm completely stumped, it's frustrating as I can't do much on my PC without sound.
 
So I built my PC and tried to clone my Win10 partition on my HDD to my SSD and it worked fine except for the fact that my old partition was smaller than the size of my SSD so there was a good chunk of unallocated space. I couldn't figure out how to extend it so I just formatted the drive and tried a new clone but with all the space included. And it wouldn't boot. I've tried a few more times, even doing exact same thing I did the first time and still won't boot. I tried to do a boot repair as well. Nothing.

The install on my old HDD is fine, so I can use the computer, but it's frustrating I can't use my SSD. It was so much faster the little I used it. Any suggestions?
 
VistraNorrez said:
So I built my PC and tried to clone my Win10 partition on my HDD to my SSD and it worked fine except for the fact that my old partition was smaller than the size of my SSD so there was a good chunk of unallocated space. I couldn't figure out how to extend it so I just formatted the drive and tried a new clone but with all the space included. And it wouldn't boot. I've tried a few more times, even doing exact same thing I did the first time and still won't boot. I tried to do a boot repair as well. Nothing.

The install on my old HDD is fine, so I can use the computer, but it's frustrating I can't use my SSD. It was so much faster the little I used it. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

You can expand the partition in Disk Management.

Follow your steps again, boot into windows. Go into Disk Management, select the drive and you should be able to expand that partition. Should take a few seconds to do.
 
Dan27 said:
You can expand the partition in Disk Management.

Follow your steps again, boot into windows. Go into Disk Management, select the drive and you should be able to expand that partition. Should take a few seconds to do.
Click to expand...

It wouldn't let me do that, but it's too late anyway. I've tried a few more clones of the drive since, using all the space, and it simply won't boot.
 
I recently bought a Zotac GTX 1060 AMP! edition as an upgrade to my old amd radeon HD7700. I popped it in and played subnautica with it, everything seemed fine until a couple hours in both of my monitors would turn black and say no signal. I checked to confirm that the PC is still running normally, the video card is still running as well because hot air is coming out of it, but it just stopped giving signal to the monitors. I waited a few minutes and it's still no signal, so I had to do a manual hard rest, after which everything is back to normal. The next day I tried to play subnautica again, the same problem occurs again after a few hours.

I know every other part of my PC is fine and had been fine for the last few years and I kept my drivers up to date. What could the cause of this be? Could it the card is defective and I should request a RMA? Or could it because I just recently upgraded to windows 10 and it's not playing nicely with the card?

When I have more time I will test out the card with other games to see if they all cause the same problem or it's just subnautica.
 
I am having similar Os integrations for Windows 10 from my HDD to my SSD on my Alienware 15 laptop :/.


Acronis image 2015 came with my crucial SSD. I first tried to do a clone of my c drive which didn't seem to work out (. The drive copied over but I couldn't figure it how to force it to boot from the SSD). I was unable to boot at all until I swtiched to a different windows boot manager on my bios settings. At that point I had 2 Windows boot drive managers to pick and two other iv4 and iv6 NIC. At this point picking the different windows boot drive manager gave me back full computer access and it was business as usual running from the HDD .


Round 2 of migration went far worse. I then decided to try a backup and restore method. I backed up the c drive and created a bootable recovey ISO file on a portable hard drive. I then unplugged my HDD. I then couldn't figure out how to force a boot from the external drive. I copied the ISO to a USB, and again no luck. I changed my bios settings and disabled secure boot and switched to legacy. That allowed me to boot from USB but I kept getting errors upon starting that preventing any actual loading of windows.

I decided to plug back in the HDD. Going into bios where I used to have 2 windows boot managers, one was now missing. When trying to boot I go right to a trying to repair, Alienware repair comes up, only to error out and fail at the partition stage of rebuilding. I tried using legacy boot with HDD as primary boot , no luck. I went back to secure boot via uefi, and absoultely no luck there - again my 2nd windows boot manager whih was my dacior after failed migration 1 is gone!

I dont know what the heck ive done but I would love to have my HDD functioning as it did before unplugging it :(

I am a total noob and clearly paying the price.
 
So the Windows 10 Anniversary update has applied to 2 of my Win10 computers save for my last one: A tiny netbook. It has Win10 so the update isn't vitally important but I'd still like some info on my issue. Downloading the update tool directly from Microsoft and running it states that everything checks out, except that I don't have 20 GB of space for the update. Is there anyway around this with external USBs or drives to apply the update because there isn't anything on my netbook that could be deleted to clear up that much...
 
I have a quick networking question about adding a network switch.

I have a wireless router downstairs with all of my home office equipment. I have some media items upstairs which are all connected over wifi. I don't really like this setup and would prefer my media stuff to be wired. If I run an ethernet cable from the wifi router to my upstairs, plug it into a switch like this one (TL-SG105) then plug all of my devices into the switch, then that should work to give my media stuff a wired connection, correct?

I know I could also do a wireless bridge, but I need to pull out some excessive cabling that the previous owners put in, so I will be in a good position to put in my own cable, so I figure the switch setup would probably be better.
 
Ok tech gaf, mabye you can help me.


I'm having issues with my home Wifi and my Phone (Galaxy S6 running Android 6.0.1).
When connected to my home Wifi everything is really slow. Pages that should take like 2 seconds to load now take 15, Youtube will sometimes refuse to load and skype calls have really bad quality.
As a side note, it almost feels like what is taking really long to load is establishing the first connection. Like say I open my browser and go to GAF, it takes like 15 seconds to actually show anything but once it has loaded I can enter subforums and threads and it goes decently fast (except images/gifs and stuff like that)

2 important factors:

- Wifi works perfectly on every other device in my house (TV, Console, PC's, other phones, etc)
- Wifi works fine on my phone everywhere except at home(work, public wifi at some cafe, houses of friends and family)


After getting a few instances of pages not loading and getting some sort of DNS error I asumed it had to be some DNS issue. I download an App called DNS Changer and that "solves" the problem. As long as DNS changer is running everything works great.
The thing is: The app has to allways be running, it has ads and from what little I understand it also works as a VPN. Android gives me a warning message that using an app like this might be a security risk. Now the App itself looks pretty legit (good user rating, 100.000 + downloads, etc) but as someone who does most of his E.banking on the phone I would still preffer to not use it .

So I think, ok this says it's using the google DNS, I just have to set that one manually on my phone and problem solved right?. Well I do so but it doesn't fix the issue. So clearly the app is doing some extra thing that my phone isn't.


Any ideas on how I might solve this?
Thx
 
Fbh said:
After getting a few instances of pages not loading and getting some sort of DNS error I asumed it had to be some DNS issue. I download an App called DNS Changer and that "solves" the problem. As long as DNS changer is running everything works great.
The thing is: The app has to allways be running, it has ads and from what little I understand it also works as a VPN. Android gives me a warning message that using an app like this might be a security risk. Now the App itself looks pretty legit (good user rating, 100.000 + downloads, etc) but as someone who does most of his E.banking on the phone I would still preffer to not use it .

So I think, ok this says it's using the google DNS, I just have to set that one manually on my phone and problem solved right?. Well I do so but it doesn't fix the issue. So clearly the app is doing some extra thing that my phone isn't.


Any ideas on how I might solve this?
Thx
Click to expand...

I don't like the sound of that VPN service. I work at a University and "VPN Services" are a usually factor as to why a lot of our students can't connect. Then again, we use a WPA-2 Network so it's very picky with network settings.

Applications like "DNS Unlocker" are usually used to illegally stream films etc. from particular servers or websites. The problem is these applications will let in bloatware, java based ads and possibly malware in to the machine. The other problem is, it will constantly change/set your DNS to the setting it wants.

Fortunately, it's doing a job that you can easily do yourself so I would advise the following...

- Remove any DNS/VPN software from Programs and Features.
- Run Malwarebytes Anti-Virus Scan.
- Network & Sharing Centre > Change Adapter Settings > Right-Click your Wi-Fi connection and choose Properties.

In the list of options, double-click IPv4 settings. This should display your current DNS settings. You may possibly have the google DNS here. I would advise setting it back to automatic.



Alternatively...

Update the driver on your Network adapter.
 
Hey guys, updated 2 laptops to Win 10 and I can't for the life of me get my wife's Iphone 6S to backup. It keeps saying something like not enough disk space but there's at least 100gb free on system. Her phone only has like 30gb used. Any ideas?
 
Need help!

So I was using my home desktop earlier and I went to do something else. I have it set to ask for a password after exiting screensaver. I went back to the pc, went to log in, and after the first login attempt I get "The referenced account is locked and cannot be logged in to".

First thing I did was walk away and play some video games to see if the lockout period would expire. It didn't. I don't have a password reset disk/drive set up and I have been unsuccessfully combing google trying to find a solution. I've gone as far as to activate and login to the hidden admin account and remove the password from my main account and it is still giving me a lockout message.

Edit: So the problem has resolved itself apparently, though I still don't understand what caused the lockout in the first place.
 
VistraNorrez said:
So I built my PC and tried to clone my Win10 partition on my HDD to my SSD and it worked fine except for the fact that my old partition was smaller than the size of my SSD so there was a good chunk of unallocated space. I couldn't figure out how to extend it so I just formatted the drive and tried a new clone but with all the space included. And it wouldn't boot. I've tried a few more times, even doing exact same thing I did the first time and still won't boot. I tried to do a boot repair as well. Nothing.

The install on my old HDD is fine, so I can use the computer, but it's frustrating I can't use my SSD. It was so much faster the little I used it. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

An update: I finally migrated the OS to the SSD. I just went with a different tool. I first used Macrium Reflect, which worked only the first time. The final time I used Partition Wizard Mini Tool.
 
Pinkuss said:
Help! My RAM's dying and I need a replacement. I haven't tinkered with anything other than a GPU for 10 years or so now.

I have this motherboard http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4737#ov

Is this RAM compatible?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B015FY3BJ2/

If not; what is? (Looking for 8Gb of the fastest memory I can get for 45 - 75 quid).
Click to expand...

No. You need DDR3 ram, and your mobo maxes out at 1600, so these will probably be fine https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004CRSM4I/ if you want 8gb. Search for DDR3 1600 if you want alternatives.
 
Just in case I can't fix the issue myself.


I recently got a new Gateway from my internet provider (att) which is a Pace 5031NV. Now only a few days after getting this new Gateway my Nat is stuck on strict and I'm unable to play any games on my Xbox one. I've tried hard restarting both and opened the DMZ in the firewall settings but neither has had an effect.

I wasn't sure what to do next or did I have to end up buying my own router.
 
I got a Gigabyte 1070 about a month ago. I've been noticing some weird flickering on my screen like it'll go static for just a moment. It's hard to catch, but it's definitely happening. Another thing, though it's only happened once, when I brought up my map in Elite: Dangerous the entire top of the screen was weird purple discoloration and artifacts.

I've tried reinstalling my graphics drivers but still happening. Is this GPU dying already?
 
So a couple of days ago my monitor(Asus VK246H *2009) that I use to have CNN/MSNBC as background noise 24/7 crapped out but I could still get a picture here and there but the OSD seems like it got corrupted. Decided to take it apart and check out the PCB's to see if there was any damage. Can someone confirm if this is damage or just "aging"? Thanks

This is the main PCB with the HDMI/DVI-D/VGA connection.

This is the underside of it.

Replacing it will be about $50-75 and getting a similar monitor is about $100. No brainer to get a new one if the PCB is damaged and I can't easily repair it.
 
I'm having playback issues with Facebook and Instagram videos. The videos play maybe 2-3 seconds at a time, making the experience unbearable. YouTube videos, even at 4K resolution, have no loading or playback issues.

Facebook/Insta clips load fast on other people's WiFi or over LTE, but struggle on my WiFi & wired (80+ Mbps) Comcast connection.

It must be some sort of configuration issue with the Comcast Modem then, right? I tried resetting the modem, and the issue persists.
 
anyone know a good program to convert mp3/mp4 to mpr? (windows PC)
I would like to streamline this horrid conversion of my ringtones as much as possible :/
so dumb i can't just use my already made mp3 ones on an iphone @_@
 
I was transfering some files onto a USB today when suddenly the transfer stopped. I try to restart it and now it's "Read Only". Happened out of the blue. I've tried multiple things to fix it but nothing works, any ideas?

What I've tried:
Disk Management, 3rd party software, safe mode CMD format, registry settings, CMD attributes clear, OSX Disk Utility.

Nothing works!!! Mind boggling. Is the drive just busted?

Tron#1 said:
Just downloaded Kodi at the advice from a co-worker. Anyone know if there are ways for your wireless provider to know you are watching the movies from there? Will they contact about it? I am a little worried about watching movies that are basically pirated... is that the right term? Co-worker said I should be fine as I am just watching the movies and not downloading them for personal use. Is this correct?
Click to expand...

You are indeed pirating movies. But internet providers shouldn't be able to detect it because it isn't using torrents. It's basically downloading from a single file sharing site
 
Tron#1 said:
That worries me I am looking into VPN's. Not a techie so this stuff is new and a little confusing to me. For a VPN to work you just need your routers ip address right?
Click to expand...

I don't know much about vpn so I'll leave that for someone else. I've gotten in trouble in the past from torrenting, but never kodi for what it's worth
 
PC is turning off/losing power on its own. It was doing this about two months ago and I replaced the PCU. Seemed to fix the problem. It's now doing it again. I cracked the case open and I think it's because the 24 pin connector doesn't fit all the way into the motherboard. It goes so far and stops, and the clip doesn't clip.

Got it working again, and I guess I'll tape it down or something, but do you think that could be the problem?

Specs are:

Windows 10

Intel Core i5-4430 CPU 3.00GHz processor (those are numbers and letters!)

12 Gigs of RAM

Card is an NVidia Geforce GTX 970

Motherboard is an MSI affair. Z97 I believe. Drivers should be up to date on it as I did that two months ago.
 
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