SomewhatGroovy
Banned
A 55 inch Samsung KS8000 for $1000 no tax sounds good? I think this is as low as it will go during Super Bowl sales.
where are you seeing this? Best Buy?
A 55 inch Samsung KS8000 for $1000 no tax sounds good? I think this is as low as it will go during Super Bowl sales.
Gah, I really want to get the 65" B6 but $1,000 more for 10 inches? Damn, LG.
This is a stupid question but are the 55 inch OLED just as impressive as the 65 inch? Most videos on youtube are of the 65 inch. Also, some people are reporting that their 65 inch OLED screen is slightly bent? Does the same thing happen on the 55 version? Or maybe not since it's smaller/harder to bend.
where are you seeing this? Best Buy?
That's an old recommendation.55" is fine. That's about 32.5 degrees field of view which is about right. THX recommended is 36 degrees which would be a 60" set but that can be too much for general viewing
That's an old recommendation.
In the BT.2100 spec, the ITU recommends 3.2x picture height for 1080p, 1.63.2 for 4K, and 0.83.2 for 8K.
That's roughly 31° for 1080p, 58° for 4K, and 96° for 8K.
I would want the biggest display that I could afford, and to be sitting as close to it as possible.
I would want the biggest display that I could afford, and to be sitting as close to it as possible.
Calibrate it yourself with AVS HD 709. You should never use somebody else's settings if you care about accuracy.So I'm sure it has been asked a million times (and I'll search previous pages) but.... this Saturday I'll be going to Best Buy and buying the 55'' B6; my question is, where to start? Do I buy one of those Disney calibration discs I've been reading about? I'm guessing they're on ebay? Also, is there a list in this thread with the settings I should use? I'm guessing it may change from unit to unit but is there a general "good" image settings? For example I think I read that OLED brightness should be at 50%? what else?
Sorry for the trouble! first time buying a high end TV and first time actually messing with the image settings.
One of Reddit's guides recommended the SMSL Audio Q5 Pro, but reviews seem to agree that remote IR quality is crap.
AAFES website (military).
KillGore I scraped some money off my couch and came up with the money to upgrade to the KS8000!
Calibrate it yourself with AVS HD 709. You should never use somebody else's settings if you care about accuracy.
I have one and can agree with that assessment. I like mine, but I don't use the remote. I think it broke almost instantly anyway.
You don't need to go for that particular model. There are a lot of similar Chinese-made Class D amplifiers available on sites like Ali Express. Maybe you can find something with a better remove. However, if your plan is to mount it on the back of your TV, I'm not sure how any IR remote is going to work, as IR is line-of-site.
Probably tomorrow or next Saturday. Hopefully they have stock!Ahh! nice!! Congrats. It is a great TV. When are you planning on buying it?
Hey guys, is $289 a good price for a Samsung 4k 40" LED TV? (Keep in mind I'll have to pay sales tax on it)
Local Costco is having some superbowl related deals starting next week and that one seems really good. Or is it better to wait since prices seem to be dropping really fast?
Also, are Samsung 4k TVs good with input lag? It sucks so much that we now have to worry about stuff like that.
What's the model #?
Hey guys, is $289 a good price for a Samsung 4k 40" LED TV? (Keep in mind I'll have to pay sales tax on it)
Local Costco is having some superbowl related deals starting next week and that one seems really good. Or is it better to wait since prices seem to be dropping really fast?
Also, are Samsung 4k TVs good with input lag? It sucks so much that we now have to worry about stuff like that.
If you want to take it a step further, really consider getting a colorimeter. The i1 Display Pro is typically the preferred choice and suggestion because of its combination of performance, price, and value, but it is a bit expensive (at $200) however. As to why, getting the appropriate black (brightness) and white (contrast) levels for your TV is nice and easy since following test patterns is pretty self-explanatory, but if you're curious about what an accurate picture looks like, the more real substantial improvements from calibrating are getting balanced grayscale adjustments and gamma aligned frankly. And BT.1886 gamma is the bees' knees compared to the 2.2 gamma rtings.com uses.thanks for the suggestion!
The flyer doesn't have the model #
I'll have to go and check on Monday I guess.
If you want to take it a step further, really consider getting a colorimeter. The i1 Display Pro is typically the preferred choice and suggestion because of its combination of performance, price, and value, but it is a bit expensive (at $200) however. As to why, getting the appropriate black (brightness) and white (contrast) levels for your TV is nice and easy since following test patterns is pretty self-explanatory, but if you're curious about what an accurate picture looks like, the more real substantial improvements from calibrating are getting balanced grayscale adjustments and gamma aligned frankly. And BT.1886 gamma is the bees' knees compared to the 2.2 gamma rtings.com uses.
What is 1080p gaming (PC preferably) like on a 4K B6? (Excludin HDR/input lag).
I'm interested in the picture quality itself compared to on a 1080p tv. Native vs upscaled.
1080p to 2160p is an easy calculation so there are no issues. Gaming on these sets is just mind blowing.
Ok this is good. I can't run any 4K content since my AV RX is only 1080p. All gaming will be 1080p PC so it's really important for me that it still looks good.
The flyer doesn't have the model #
I'll have to go and check on Monday I guess.
item number points to 40in being a 6290, which has the same panel as 6300. Main caveat to note is pwm flicker when running under 50% brightness. I'm torn over getting one as a work monitor, looks great and size is great but it's bright above the pwm threshold.
Samsungs have best input lag on the market I think, usually 20ms on Game Mode even on lower end 2016 models.
Recently got KU6300/6000 and posted this to another user who was thinking about getting it, might as well post here:
Some notes:
-The stand is kinda wonky and wobbles easily but shouldn't be a problem.
-PS4 Pro doesn't like the TV and has the infamous HDCP issue when trying to use 4K RGB, hopefully Sony fixes this in upcoming firmwares.
-OS is kind of slow, but gets the job done.
-All modes except PC have Frame Dimming (Screen darkens if the content on screen is dark), PC mode disables it completely, PC mode has 35ms input lag compared to Game mode which has 20ms but Frame Dimming cannot be disabled there.
I had Panasonic 42" ST60 before this which is regarded as one of the best looking plasmas with superb picture quality, and this doesn't lose to that, for the money the PQ is outstanding, I've been playing FullHD and 4K games on my PS4 and they all look really good.
Hopefully this helps with the decision, cheers mate!
item number points to 40in being a 6290, which has the same panel as 6300. Main caveat to note is pwm flicker when running under 50% brightness. I'm torn over getting one as a work monitor, looks great and size is great but it's bright above the pwm threshold.
65 B6 on the way guys very excited.
Upgrading from a 720p 42" Pioneer Kuro 4280XD.
Congrats! How much? I think I'm getting mine tomorrow
Costco £2600
90 day returns window
If I do get the 65'' I'll be paying $3,000 but with a 15 day return window lol
It's enough either way!
I'm certain we will just keep them and live with any compromise lol.
Yes! When do you get it? Enjoy!
Currently waiting for a call back on the 65" B6 I may be purchasing. In the mean time, I've spent too much time on AVS this morning reading about wavy/bent panels and severe vignetting on one side of the screen, lol. I should've learned my lesson about AVS years ago after I got my Kuro
Edit: 65" B6 on the way. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Last night I had a date over, and I went to turn on the PS4 on my new E6, and nothing was displaying on the screen. I could hear the audio, but the screen was a solid wall of black. When I checked into the input previews, it displayed fine there, but when I went fullscreen, it was still black. I restarted the PS4, unplugged and re-seated the HDMI cable on both ends a couple times, then finally restarted the TV. Eventually it started working. Completely freaky experience for a less than a week old TV. Anything I should be worried about?
Edit: It just did it again with my PS4, this time while I was already using it.
Double Edit: That time it was just the TV turning off when I closed a PS4 application, but worked fine again when I just turned it back on.
I ran through a full calibration with an i1D Pro, measured BL at 10 (50%) at 48fL, I'm not sure why you'd ever want to go below that on a monitor. I've never seen any flicker at that setting, I havent used it any lower. MLL is 0.011fL in PC mode at BL 10. The panels issues are grayscale uniformity (edge to edge) and viewing angles. Also PC mode disables the CMS and custom color, but delta errors are all mostly around 3 or lower, iirc red was the worst pushing up to around 5. Honestly, you're not going to beat it for $289.
I'm afraid I get a bent display as well. Would Best Buy allow me to return it because of that?
How did the date go?
Very well, we played videogames and watched Rick & Morty. He kicked my ass at Halo, I kicked his at Perfect Dark. P.T. was more terrifying than it should have been due to the PS4/TV issues I mentioned.
Guys, a lot of you are experts here. Should I give up some quality (such as worse latency in HDR) for a 75 inch set? I currently have a 1080p Sharp thats 70" and i really did not want to go down in size but:
The Samsung KS8000 65" gets a lot of praise around here, rtings and avsforums but its only a 65 or lower
The KS9000 comes in 75" but its crazy expensive
The LG 75UH8500 is within my budget but its twice the price of the KS8000.
Is it worth paying more for the 75" or going w/ a smaller size for better quality? like the OLEDs or the ks8000. I sit at about 10' feet from my TV but with a big one i dont need to worry about viewing angles.
This TV has to last me 5 years at least. Help?
Guys, a lot of you are experts here. Should I give up some quality (such as worse latency in HDR) for a 75 inch set? I currently have a 1080p Sharp thats 70" and i really did not want to go down in size but:
The Samsung KS8000 65" gets a lot of praise around here, rtings and avsforums but its only a 65 or lower
The KS9000 comes in 75" but its crazy expensive
The LG 75UH8500 is within my budget but its twice the price of the KS8000.
Is it worth paying more for the 75" or going w/ a smaller size for better quality? like the OLEDs or the ks8000. I sit at about 10' feet from my TV but with a big one i dont need to worry about viewing angles.
This TV has to last me 5 years at least. Help?