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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

Yukstin

Member
Gah, I really want to get the 65" B6 but $1,000 more for 10 inches? Damn, LG.

This is a stupid question but are the 55 inch OLED just as impressive as the 65 inch? Most videos on youtube are of the 65 inch. Also, some people are reporting that their 65 inch OLED screen is slightly bent? Does the same thing happen on the 55 version? Or maybe not since it's smaller/harder to bend.

I went from a 54 plasma to a 65 OLED. In my room at least there is a big difference in the extra inches of screen size. I would say go big!
 

Paragon

Member
55" is fine. That's about 32.5 degrees field of view which is about right. THX recommended is 36 degrees which would be a 60" set but that can be too much for general viewing
That's an old recommendation.
In the BT.2100 spec, the ITU recommends 3.2x picture height for 1080p, 1.6–3.2 for 4K, and 0.8–3.2 for 8K.
That's roughly 31° for 1080p, 58° for 4K, and 96° for 8K.
I would want the biggest display that I could afford, and to be sitting as close to it as possible.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
That's an old recommendation.
In the BT.2100 spec, the ITU recommends 3.2x picture height for 1080p, 1.6–3.2 for 4K, and 0.8–3.2 for 8K.
That's roughly 31° for 1080p, 58° for 4K, and 96° for 8K.
I would want the biggest display that I could afford, and to be sitting as close to it as possible.

That seems ridiculous. While that might be the best in terms of realising the resolution benefits, a 96 degree FoV would be almost unwatchable for lots of content.
 

Geneijin

Member
So I'm sure it has been asked a million times (and I'll search previous pages) but.... this Saturday I'll be going to Best Buy and buying the 55'' B6; my question is, where to start? Do I buy one of those Disney calibration discs I've been reading about? I'm guessing they're on ebay? Also, is there a list in this thread with the settings I should use? I'm guessing it may change from unit to unit but is there a general "good" image settings? For example I think I read that OLED brightness should be at 50%? what else?

Sorry for the trouble! first time buying a high end TV and first time actually messing with the image settings.
Calibrate it yourself with AVS HD 709. You should never use somebody else's settings if you care about accuracy.
 

muu

Member
Any recommendation for a good micro receiver? I was going to attach a soundbar to a TV I'm mounting above my living room fireplace, but the Samsung I picked out sounds terrible for the price (~$200). Just want something that'll allow for remote volume control, even better if I can get it working w/ a Harmony remote. I can either do HDMI ARC or toslink. One of Reddit's guides recommended the SMSL Audio Q5 Pro, but reviews seem to agree that remote IR quality is crap. Is there any other device I should consider? Something that'll survive being velcro'ed to the back of the TV will be best. I'll most likely pair it with Dennis Murphy AA speakers or similar.
 

tokkun

Member
One of Reddit's guides recommended the SMSL Audio Q5 Pro, but reviews seem to agree that remote IR quality is crap.

I have one and can agree with that assessment. I like mine, but I don't use the remote. I think it broke almost instantly anyway.

You don't need to go for that particular model. There are a lot of similar Chinese-made Class D amplifiers available on sites like Ali Express. Maybe you can find something with a better remove. However, if your plan is to mount it on the back of your TV, I'm not sure how any IR remote is going to work, as IR is line-of-site.
 

muu

Member
I have one and can agree with that assessment. I like mine, but I don't use the remote. I think it broke almost instantly anyway.

You don't need to go for that particular model. There are a lot of similar Chinese-made Class D amplifiers available on sites like Ali Express. Maybe you can find something with a better remove. However, if your plan is to mount it on the back of your TV, I'm not sure how any IR remote is going to work, as IR is line-of-site.

I'm hoping something half decent will allow me to control it long as there's a portion of the device peeking out the bottom or something. Of course, that could look pretty bad...

Since my Roku Premiere also works off an IR remote, I may try and have both sitting on the mantel. Space is just going to be extra tricky as there's maybe 5-6in clearance on both sides if the TV were to be mounted, where I'd like to place the speakers. Guess I could always put those on a small upside down mount or something to leave space for devices...
 

Tubie

Member
Hey guys, is $289 a good price for a Samsung 4k 40" LED TV? (Keep in mind I'll have to pay sales tax on it)

Local Costco is having some superbowl related deals starting next week and that one seems really good. Or is it better to wait since prices seem to be dropping really fast?

Also, are Samsung 4k TVs good with input lag? It sucks so much that we now have to worry about stuff like that.
 

BumRush

Member
Hey guys, is $289 a good price for a Samsung 4k 40" LED TV? (Keep in mind I'll have to pay sales tax on it)

Local Costco is having some superbowl related deals starting next week and that one seems really good. Or is it better to wait since prices seem to be dropping really fast?

Also, are Samsung 4k TVs good with input lag? It sucks so much that we now have to worry about stuff like that.

What's the model #?
 

Kudo

Member
Hey guys, is $289 a good price for a Samsung 4k 40" LED TV? (Keep in mind I'll have to pay sales tax on it)

Local Costco is having some superbowl related deals starting next week and that one seems really good. Or is it better to wait since prices seem to be dropping really fast?

Also, are Samsung 4k TVs good with input lag? It sucks so much that we now have to worry about stuff like that.

Samsungs have best input lag on the market I think, usually 20ms on Game Mode even on lower end 2016 models.
Recently got KU6300/6000 and posted this to another user who was thinking about getting it, might as well post here:

Some notes:
-The stand is kinda wonky and wobbles easily but shouldn't be a problem.
-PS4 Pro doesn't like the TV and has the infamous HDCP issue when trying to use 4K RGB, hopefully Sony fixes this in upcoming firmwares.
-OS is kind of slow, but gets the job done.
-All modes except PC have Frame Dimming (Screen darkens if the content on screen is dark), PC mode disables it completely, PC mode has 35ms input lag compared to Game mode which has 20ms but Frame Dimming cannot be disabled there.

I had Panasonic 42" ST60 before this which is regarded as one of the best looking plasmas with superb picture quality, and this doesn't lose to that, for the money the PQ is outstanding, I've been playing FullHD and 4K games on my PS4 and they all look really good.
Hopefully this helps with the decision, cheers mate!
 

Geneijin

Member
thanks for the suggestion!
If you want to take it a step further, really consider getting a colorimeter. The i1 Display Pro is typically the preferred choice and suggestion because of its combination of performance, price, and value, but it is a bit expensive (at $200) however. As to why, getting the appropriate black (brightness) and white (contrast) levels for your TV is nice and easy since following test patterns is pretty self-explanatory, but if you're curious about what an accurate picture looks like, the more real substantial improvements from calibrating are getting balanced grayscale adjustments and gamma aligned frankly. And BT.1886 gamma is the bees' knees compared to the 2.2 gamma rtings.com uses.
 

muu

Member
The flyer doesn't have the model # :(

I'll have to go and check on Monday I guess.

item number points to 40in being a 6290, which has the same panel as 6300. Main caveat to note is pwm flicker when running under 50% brightness. I'm torn over getting one as a work monitor, looks great and size is great but it's bright above the pwm threshold.
 

Micerider

Member
Has there been any announcements for the availability of the 2017 TV line up (interested in Samsung or Sony) yet? I'm in the market for 4k HDR (or rather, will be in early March when the budgetting would be completed) but don't feel like relying on 2016 releases at this point.
 

III-V

Member
If you want to take it a step further, really consider getting a colorimeter. The i1 Display Pro is typically the preferred choice and suggestion because of its combination of performance, price, and value, but it is a bit expensive (at $200) however. As to why, getting the appropriate black (brightness) and white (contrast) levels for your TV is nice and easy since following test patterns is pretty self-explanatory, but if you're curious about what an accurate picture looks like, the more real substantial improvements from calibrating are getting balanced grayscale adjustments and gamma aligned frankly. And BT.1886 gamma is the bees' knees compared to the 2.2 gamma rtings.com uses.

I agree about BT1886, have my PJ set up like that, so good.
 
I am waiting patiently for the new Sony 930e to appear in stores. I like the fact that it has the X1 extreeeeeeeme processor. And after my last Sony 1080p that is the best TV I have ever owned, I have turned brand loyal.

Probably will wait a while for reviews and price drops, unless they are an awesome price right out of the gate or something.
 

Dave_6

Member
Currently waiting for a call back on the 65" B6 I may be purchasing. In the mean time, I've spent too much time on AVS this morning reading about wavy/bent panels and severe vignetting on one side of the screen, lol. I should've learned my lesson about AVS years ago after I got my Kuro :p

Edit: 65" B6 on the way. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
 

LilJoka

Member
What is 1080p gaming (PC preferably) like on a 4K B6? (Excludin HDR/input lag).
I'm interested in the picture quality itself compared to on a 1080p tv. Native vs upscaled.
 

holygeesus

Banned
What is 1080p gaming (PC preferably) like on a 4K B6? (Excludin HDR/input lag).
I'm interested in the picture quality itself compared to on a 1080p tv. Native vs upscaled.

1080p to 2160p is an easy calculation so there are no issues. Gaming on these sets is just mind blowing.
 

LilJoka

Member
1080p to 2160p is an easy calculation so there are no issues. Gaming on these sets is just mind blowing.

Ok this is good. I can't run any 4K content since my AV RX is only 1080p. All gaming will be 1080p PC so it's really important for me that it still looks good.
 

holygeesus

Banned
Ok this is good. I can't run any 4K content since my AV RX is only 1080p. All gaming will be 1080p PC so it's really important for me that it still looks good.

It's kind of a big deal that any 4K display copes well with 1080p material as there is so much of it out there in comparison to genuine 4K. There wouldn't be any point having a TV that only plays nicely with 4K. 720p material and lower, will not fare as well though.
 

Haint

Member
item number points to 40in being a 6290, which has the same panel as 6300. Main caveat to note is pwm flicker when running under 50% brightness. I'm torn over getting one as a work monitor, looks great and size is great but it's bright above the pwm threshold.

I ran through a full calibration with an i1D Pro, measured BL at 10 (50%) at 48fL, I'm not sure why you'd ever want to go below that on a monitor. I've never seen any flicker at that setting, I havent used it any lower. MLL is 0.011fL in PC mode at BL 10. The panels issues are grayscale uniformity (edge to edge) and viewing angles. Also PC mode disables the CMS and custom color, but delta errors are all mostly around 3 or lower, iirc red was the worst pushing up to around 5. Honestly, you're not going to beat it for $289.
 

Tubie

Member
Samsungs have best input lag on the market I think, usually 20ms on Game Mode even on lower end 2016 models.
Recently got KU6300/6000 and posted this to another user who was thinking about getting it, might as well post here:

Some notes:
-The stand is kinda wonky and wobbles easily but shouldn't be a problem.
-PS4 Pro doesn't like the TV and has the infamous HDCP issue when trying to use 4K RGB, hopefully Sony fixes this in upcoming firmwares.
-OS is kind of slow, but gets the job done.
-All modes except PC have Frame Dimming (Screen darkens if the content on screen is dark), PC mode disables it completely, PC mode has 35ms input lag compared to Game mode which has 20ms but Frame Dimming cannot be disabled there.

I had Panasonic 42" ST60 before this which is regarded as one of the best looking plasmas with superb picture quality, and this doesn't lose to that, for the money the PQ is outstanding, I've been playing FullHD and 4K games on my PS4 and they all look really good.
Hopefully this helps with the decision, cheers mate!

Thank you so much for all the detailed info.

Really happy with that input lag. I imagine this set can do HDR10 right? On the details page of the 6290 it says HDR Premium, so I'm thinking that's what it means.

item number points to 40in being a 6290, which has the same panel as 6300. Main caveat to note is pwm flicker when running under 50% brightness. I'm torn over getting one as a work monitor, looks great and size is great but it's bright above the pwm threshold.

How big of a deal is this? sorry, not really familiar with these terms lol.
 

The_Spaniard

Netmarble
Last night I had a date over, and I went to turn on the PS4 on my new E6, and nothing was displaying on the screen. I could hear the audio, but the screen was a solid wall of black. When I checked into the input previews, it displayed fine there, but when I went fullscreen, it was still black. I restarted the PS4, unplugged and re-seated the HDMI cable on both ends a couple times, then finally restarted the TV. Eventually it started working. Completely freaky experience for a less than a week old TV. Anything I should be worried about?

Edit: It just did it again with my PS4, this time while I was already using it.
Double Edit: That time it was just the TV turning off when I closed a PS4 application, but worked fine again when I just turned it back on.
 

Sdkkds

Neo Member
Currently waiting for a call back on the 65" B6 I may be purchasing. In the mean time, I've spent too much time on AVS this morning reading about wavy/bent panels and severe vignetting on one side of the screen, lol. I should've learned my lesson about AVS years ago after I got my Kuro :p

Edit: 65" B6 on the way. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Mine is shipping next week, and I just did the same thing, I hate AVSForum :p
 

Solid Raiden

Neo Member
I am looking to get a 4k set in the $1k range. I hear super bowl time is the best time to shop for a new TV. Does anyone have any recommendations?
 
Last night I had a date over, and I went to turn on the PS4 on my new E6, and nothing was displaying on the screen. I could hear the audio, but the screen was a solid wall of black. When I checked into the input previews, it displayed fine there, but when I went fullscreen, it was still black. I restarted the PS4, unplugged and re-seated the HDMI cable on both ends a couple times, then finally restarted the TV. Eventually it started working. Completely freaky experience for a less than a week old TV. Anything I should be worried about?

Edit: It just did it again with my PS4, this time while I was already using it.
Double Edit: That time it was just the TV turning off when I closed a PS4 application, but worked fine again when I just turned it back on.

How did the date go?
 

muu

Member
I ran through a full calibration with an i1D Pro, measured BL at 10 (50%) at 48fL, I'm not sure why you'd ever want to go below that on a monitor. I've never seen any flicker at that setting, I havent used it any lower. MLL is 0.011fL in PC mode at BL 10. The panels issues are grayscale uniformity (edge to edge) and viewing angles. Also PC mode disables the CMS and custom color, but delta errors are all mostly around 3 or lower, iirc red was the worst pushing up to around 5. Honestly, you're not going to beat it for $289.

My main usage will be work, someone in the office has it and it's noticeably brighter than what I have my other monitors set at when set to 10. Had an eye exam recently, they noted in light sensitive which probably has something to do w me setting most my monitors down significantly on brightness. I have a 27in lg 4k monitor I got on Black Friday and I love the screen real estate, just wish it's a bit bigger.
 

NooM

Banned
Guys, a lot of you are experts here. Should I give up some quality (such as worse latency in HDR) for a 75 inch set? I currently have a 1080p Sharp thats 70" and i really did not want to go down in size but:

The Samsung KS8000 65" gets a lot of praise around here, rtings and avsforums but its only a 65 or lower

The KS9000 comes in 75" but its crazy expensive

The LG 75UH8500 is within my budget but its twice the price of the KS8000.

Is it worth paying more for the 75" or going w/ a smaller size for better quality? like the OLEDs or the ks8000. I sit at about 10' feet from my TV but with a big one i dont need to worry about viewing angles.

This TV has to last me 5 years at least. Help?
 
Very well, we played videogames and watched Rick & Morty. He kicked my ass at Halo, I kicked his at Perfect Dark. P.T. was more terrifying than it should have been due to the PS4/TV issues I mentioned.

Ah, good for you.

How did Perfect Dark look on the TV? I'm assuming it is the Rare Replay version?
 

Evo X

Member
Guys, a lot of you are experts here. Should I give up some quality (such as worse latency in HDR) for a 75 inch set? I currently have a 1080p Sharp thats 70" and i really did not want to go down in size but:

The Samsung KS8000 65" gets a lot of praise around here, rtings and avsforums but its only a 65 or lower

The KS9000 comes in 75" but its crazy expensive

The LG 75UH8500 is within my budget but its twice the price of the KS8000.

Is it worth paying more for the 75" or going w/ a smaller size for better quality? like the OLEDs or the ks8000. I sit at about 10' feet from my TV but with a big one i dont need to worry about viewing angles.

This TV has to last me 5 years at least. Help?

Quality over size. Always.
 
Guys, a lot of you are experts here. Should I give up some quality (such as worse latency in HDR) for a 75 inch set? I currently have a 1080p Sharp thats 70" and i really did not want to go down in size but:

The Samsung KS8000 65" gets a lot of praise around here, rtings and avsforums but its only a 65 or lower

The KS9000 comes in 75" but its crazy expensive

The LG 75UH8500 is within my budget but its twice the price of the KS8000.

Is it worth paying more for the 75" or going w/ a smaller size for better quality? like the OLEDs or the ks8000. I sit at about 10' feet from my TV but with a big one i dont need to worry about viewing angles.

This TV has to last me 5 years at least. Help?

When it comes to large TV's you are kinda fucked. The KS 8000/9000 are a total roll of the dice. As it's Samsung the panel lottery is in full effect. If size is all that matters then roll the dice. Just make sure you can return it easily because with larger sizes comes a greater possibility of panel issues.
 
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