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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

AddiF

Member
If it is something that you find distracting during normal use, I still think you should return, if you have the option. It's a lot of money to spend on something you aren't happy with.

I might, yes. Is this something that is likely to be in a different E6 if I decide to have it replaced, not completely returned or maybe just a defect in this unit?
 

holygeesus

Banned
I might, yes. Is this something that is likely to be in a different E6 if I decide to have it replaced, not completely returned or maybe just a defect in this unit?

There is still some degree of 'panel lottery' when it comes to these sets. If anything, I would have thought that the more expensive E6 would be more likely to make it easier to get a good one. As I say, a degree of tinting at the sides is normal, as the sets are designed to be, to combat vignetting, but you shouldn't notice it during normal use.
 
What do you all use for streaming? The TVs built in Apps? Another device that offers Apps, or a dedicated streaming device?

Right now I use my PS4, but I have a weird thing for using as little power as possible and my TV doesn't have any Apps, so I'm thinking about a Fire TV or Chromecast. Any suggestions?

EDIT: Forgot to say this, Europe, so no Roku for me.
 

holygeesus

Banned
What do you all use for streaming? The TVs built in Apps? Another device that offers Apps, or a dedicated streaming device?

Right now I use my PS4, but I have a weird thing for using as little power as possible and my TV doesn't have any Apps, so I'm thinking about a Fire TV or Chromecast. Any suggestions?

EDIT: Forgot to say this, Europe, so no Roku for me.

I am in the UK and imported a Roku Ultra from the US and it works great for me. I subscribe to a lot of US based services though, so found it the best all-rounder for my needs. I don't *think* the Fire TV does HDR, if that is an issue for you.
 
I am in the UK and imported a Roku Ultra from the US and it works great for me. I subscribe to a lot of US based services though, so found it the best all-rounder for my needs. I don't *think* the Fire TV does HDR, if that is an issue for you.

Not yet, but it will be at the end of the year. My roommate will order a few Raspberry Pis next month for different purposes (Firewall, etc.) and suggested a RP + Kodi + a few modifications, but reading up on that you have to jump through more than just a few hoops to get everything working on that.

Honestly, after reading a bit more, every device seems to have one or two glaring weaknesses except the Roku. Maybe I'll just wait for the next Fire TV iteration.
 

Kyoufu

Member
What do you all use for streaming? The TVs built in Apps? Another device that offers Apps, or a dedicated streaming device?

Right now I use my PS4, but I have a weird thing for using as little power as possible and my TV doesn't have any Apps, so I'm thinking about a Fire TV or Chromecast. Any suggestions?

EDIT: Forgot to say this, Europe, so no Roku for me.

I use my (E6) TV's apps. Built-in HDR10 and Dolby Vision support with a great user interface. I don't need anything else.
 

BumRush

Member
Sony hitting 1000 nits with BFI enabled this year is just not going to happen. That would mean their OLED is able to reach 2000 nits without BFI. If that were the case, Sony would have for sure mentioned that at CES as it would be over twice as bright as LG's OLED and rival LCDs.

I was all set to buy an OLED this year but after researching into the display tech, I've decided to wait for three specific reasons:

1. Improved motion handling (BFI most likely)
2. HDMI 2.1 support (variable refresh is what I'm excited for since I'm a gamer)
3. Improved near black detail

Hopefully I get my OLED wish list sooner rather than later especially since I'm rocking a 2008 42' Toshiba LCD.

I see what you're saying - and at this point I'm waiting for 2018 OLEDs as well - but you're going to have a 10 year old TV by next year. In today's changing tech market, that's insane. At some point, you need to bite. #2 should be fixed next year, but if #1 and #3 aren't, maybe you should buy a stop gap solution until your needs are met.
 

DieH@rd

Banned
What's the currently best 40-43" 4K HDR TV for heavy PC and moderate PS4 Pro use?

43XD8005 is ~750e in my territory, so I'm interested to know if there is any competition? Samsung KU6300/6000 series is too entry for my needs [no WCG].
 

Geneijin

Member
Hi guys.

LG OLED owners... is this normal? I am maybe being too extreme here but I want quality when I throw thousands of dollars into a product. So I need your help on deciding if I should have it replaced or keep it.

Notice the warmer right side and cooler left side. Also shadowy vertical lines, more distinct to the left from center screen. The screen is also slightly curved which might be causing this (??) is this acceptable?

This is not as visible when viewing from the left or straight in front of it. It becomes a lot more visible when viewing from the right. I was watching American History X last night and in every black and white scene the right side of the screen had a slight sepia effect to it. It is frustrating.

jvRWP0n.jpg


m2ijXL5.jpg


Maybe this doesn't translate well in pictures but... Help me, TVgaf
Look up gray uniformity. It's a part of panel lottery.
 

Weevilone

Member
I might, yes. Is this something that is likely to be in a different E6 if I decide to have it replaced, not completely returned or maybe just a defect in this unit?

Give it a few compensation cycles before you give up on it. I had some uniformity issues on my E6 and it disappeared. And yeah the E6's aren't perfectly straight for the most part. They are very close but not exactly if you look from the side.
 
Ugh. I'm so annoyed. Planet Earth II finally has a release date of March 28th on UHD Blu-ray, which means now I have to buy a UHD Blu-ray player. Except they're either all ridiculously expensive or don't support Dolby Vision. I really don't want another device in my home theater, either.

It would have been so much easier of Sony just added UHD Blu-ray playback to the dang PS4 Pro.
 

Weevilone

Member
Ugh. I'm so annoyed. Planet Earth II finally has a release date of March 28th on UHD Blu-ray, which means now I have to buy a UHD Blu-ray player. Except they're either all ridiculously expensive or don't support Dolby Vision. I really don't want another device in my home theater, either.

It would have been so much easier of Sony just added UHD Blu-ray playback to the dang PS4 Pro.

You'll be annoyed when you buy one, and realize:

-If you buy the Oppo the firmware is still pretty immature
-If you buy the Samsung, it's got some issues including image quality.. and no DV
-If you buy the Panasonic, you overpaid and you'll never have DV
 

NYR

Member
Ugh. I'm so annoyed. Planet Earth II finally has a release date of March 28th on UHD Blu-ray, which means now I have to buy a UHD Blu-ray player. Except they're either all ridiculously expensive or don't support Dolby Vision. I really don't want another device in my home theater, either.

It would have been so much easier of Sony just added UHD Blu-ray playback to the dang PS4 Pro.
...and then it would have costed $449 and nerds everywhere would whine just like they do with the Switch being $299 instead of $250.
 
Lots of people who debate between the X800D and KS8000 opt for the latter mainly because of the bigger screen size options plus the VA panel availability and its benefits unlike the sparse 49 inch only offering from Sony, which is an IPS panel moreover. Still, I figure if you were considering the XBR43X800D, you'd be content with the smaller Sony TV since the picture quality is comparable. The bigger jump is either a 2016 LG OLED or the Sony ZD9 personally, but well, they're $$$$.


The XBR49X800D has an IPS panel versus the KS8000 series VA panels. The KS8000 is the best choice for that size if you must have a 49" unless you need good viewing angles and can sacrifice deeper blacks and better contrast, then maybe consider the XBR49X800D.

So you're saying to spend the extra $150 for the KS8000? Would I be better in spending $100 less for something like the Vizio M50-D1? Or is the Sony one still better for the $100 extra? For the price and size, I guess the KS8000 is the end all, be all?
 

Paragon

Member
There is no option to reduce motion blur, beyond ditching sample and hold (which is not an option for OLED given their reduced brightness levels anyway) or using pixel strobing or frame interpolation, which is only going to be bad news for gaming, due to increased lag. Hence, it is a tech issue IMO.
The thing with OLED is that it doesn't have good full-screen brightness, but can get quite bright when only a small portion of the screen is lit up.
So strobing the entire image at once is probably not the way to eliminate motion blur with OLED.

But look at what a CRT does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRidfW_l4vs
It only lights up a single line of the screen at once and scans down to create the image.
Because you only have a single line of the display lit up, it should be possible to drive that at a really high brightness level.

Now it's still going to cut down your overall brightness a lot and won't be suitable for HDR. However when the calibrated target for SDR is 100 nits, I think that would be achievable.
I'm not sure if it's just simple black frame insertion being used here, but Sony have a blur reduction mode on their broadcast monitors too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTfvwOGu4EI

So it's not that OLEDs can't do it, it's that LG aren't doing it with their TVs/panels.

Black Frame Insertion remains on the table for OLED and the rumors are Sony are doing this in the A1E. In exchange for BFI between each refresh, you get brightness cut by 50% but it's not clear how bright the 2017 OLED panels can get. If Sony can hit 1000 nits with active BFI then the point is moot, and motion resolution will be vastly superior to OLED native.
The 2017 OLEDs will only be hitting 900 nits peak brightness in HDR, and maximum brightness seems unchanged.
You would need 2000 nits to achieve 1000 nits with BFI active, and it would have to be 2000 nits at a high average picture level, not only 3%.

Hi guys.
LG OLED owners... is this normal? I am maybe being too extreme here but I want quality when I throw thousands of dollars into a product. So I need your help on deciding if I should have it replaced or keep it.
Notice the warmer right side and cooler left side. Also shadowy vertical lines, more distinct to the left from center screen. The screen is also slightly curved which might be causing this (??) is this acceptable?
This is not as visible when viewing from the left or straight in front of it. It becomes a lot more visible when viewing from the right. I was watching American History X last night and in every black and white scene the right side of the screen had a slight sepia effect to it. It is frustrating.
http://i.imgur.com/jvRWP0n.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/m2ijXL5.jpg
Maybe this doesn't translate well in pictures but... Help me, TVgaf
It's normal. Put up a gray screen on an OLED and view it at an angle and the screen will turn blue. It's due to their WRGB design, since the native white-point of the OLED material is not D65.
65B6 said:
Only you can decide if you find it acceptable.
It's one of the reasons I've held off buying an OLED so far.

The thing that OLED does well with regard to viewing angle is that the black level doesn't change.
They still have quite noticeable color shifts with viewing angle, and a loss of saturation.

Ugh. I'm so annoyed. Planet Earth II finally has a release date of March 28th on UHD Blu-ray, which means now I have to buy a UHD Blu-ray player. Except they're either all ridiculously expensive or don't support Dolby Vision. I really don't want another device in my home theater, either.
It would have been so much easier of Sony just added UHD Blu-ray playback to the dang PS4 Pro.
I have little interest in owning a console - there are maybe two games that are exclusive to the PS4 which I would like to play. But I would have bought a Pro for those games if the system also had a UHD Blu-ray player, since that's something I would actually use.
I want to own a stand-alone Blu-ray player even less than I want to have a console sitting around gathering dust.
 

How much hassle was it to get them to price match? So $1600 instead of $2000? Man, very tempted! I had almost settled on the 65" KS8000 over the 55" LG OLED ($1500 vs $2000) but at $1500 vs $1600 that tilts in favor of the OLED I think.
 
How much hassle was it to get them to price match? So $1600 instead of $2000? Man, very tempted! I had almost settled on the 65" KS8000 over the 55" LG OLED ($1500 vs $2000) but at $1500 vs $1600 that tilts in favor of the OLED I think.

It only took a little while because the price match people weren't available when I first called. I just had to tell them where it was (Newegg) and that the seller was Beach Camera, which is a seller they price match. The other thing is, you have to chat with them, buy it at list Amazon price, then they change the price.
 

Gamerman1

Member
Looking at tvs and I really like the Vizio M-series. Price is an issue so we decided to keep it around $800. Is the M-series any good? I saw that it got good reviews on most sites.

Any problems with hdr with a PS4? I saw Vizio updated their firmware to include hdr10.

I have a 2015 non HDR model M series and have had no issues with it. It is usually on 9-10 hours a day. Use it at 1080p 120hz for PC. Rest of the use is PS4/PRO.
 

Midas

Member
So I just started Skyward Sword and it looks like shit on the LG B6. Any suggestions on how to improve picture quality on sub HD games?
 

Dave_6

Member
Less than 24 hours since I got my B6 and now none of the Web OS apps work. Netflix, Amazon all just go to a black screen. My internet is working fine and I do have it wired to the TV. Any ideas? Yes the TV is on the latest firmware.
 

Kyoufu

Member
Less than 24 hours since I got my B6 and now none of the Web OS apps work. Netflix, Amazon all just go to a black screen. My internet is working fine and I do have it wired to the TV. Any ideas? Yes the TV is on the latest firmware.

Tried restarting the TV? You'll have to go to General > HDMI Deep Colour and turn on/off one of the HDMI inputs to get the restart prompt.
 

Dave_6

Member
Tried restarting the TV? You'll have to go to General > HDMI Deep Colour and turn on/off one of the HDMI inputs to get the restart prompt.

Yeah I've turned the TV off twice but I'll try that method too. The last time they worked was earlier this morning when I still had it connected via wireless. Loaded Marco Polo on Netflix and it hung at 25% so I exited out and started up my Pro.
 

Kyoufu

Member
Yeah I've turned the TV off twice but I'll try that method too. The last time they worked was earlier this morning when I still had it connected via wireless. Loaded Marco Polo on Netflix and it hung at 25% so I exited out and started up my Pro.

Also disable QuickStart+ or whatever it's called. It does more harm than good.
 

BumRush

Member
Someone with a B6 (or C/E) want to put together a post for the OP around all of your settings / things to look out for? I feel like every few posts you guys are answering similar questions on it and it could help people out.
 
Less than 24 hours since I got my B6 and now none of the Web OS apps work. Netflix, Amazon all just go to a black screen. My internet is working fine and I do have it wired to the TV. Any ideas? Yes the TV is on the latest firmware.

This is probably not much help, but I had the problem where the Amazon app only showed a black screen, and within a day it fixed itself. Not sure what I may have done.

edit: this happened after I had the TV over a month.
 

NYR

Member
Less than 24 hours since I got my B6 and now none of the Web OS apps work. Netflix, Amazon all just go to a black screen. My internet is working fine and I do have it wired to the TV. Any ideas? Yes the TV is on the latest firmware.

First I've heard of this. Since the TV is so new and you likely haven't tweaked too much, you could always factory reset it and try that.
 

Sanctuary

Member
Anyone playing FFXV on any of the LG 2016 OLEDs? If so, are you having issues adjusting your brightness while in HDR mode?

On my B6, I'm not sure what I should actually be seeing, because either I'm crushing blacks, or the brightness is too high.

1. If I have the brightness higher than 49, whenever a loading screen appears with black bars, it's obviously too high because I see a bunch of heavy noise/artifacts in the bars. 49 is completely black.

2. If I have the brightness at 49 it seems like near black details are absolutely demolished. One click up to 50 and the details return all around, yet 50 does not give accurate "black". The LG OLEDs have issues with near black details, but I don't really know if that's the issue here.

3. Even though it's in "HDR mode", I'm not actually sure the loading screens are calibrated with HDR in mind, but instead have it "off" until you're in the actual game.

I've also tried adjustments based off of the in game cactaur, but again, I don't know if that's setup to be adjusted with HDR. As soon as I hit 48 brightness, the cactaur in the black box vanishes, and at 49 reappears. That should be accurate, but it doesn't seem like it is.
 

vatstep

This poster pulses with an appeal so broad the typical restraints of our societies fall by the wayside.
I'm planning to buy a 32" set for my bedroom, pretty much exclusively for Switch and NES Classic. Does anyone have any suggestions?

1080p is a must, but other than that the only desirables are audio output of some kind (stereo mini, RCA, even optical) and a split stand (with two feet, not a single base). I'm currently leaning toward a Vizio D or E series since they seem to be decent for gaming.
So I bought the Vizio I mentioned above. I wasn't expecting much but this is waaay too much light bleed even for a cheapo $200 set. Hopefully I have better luck with the next one. It doesn't need to be perfect, just not horrible.

 

Dave_6

Member
Also disable QuickStart+ or whatever it's called. It does more harm than good.

Restarting seemed to fix it, though I did disable Quickstart as well. Thanks!

This is probably not much help, but I had the problem where the Amazon app only showed a black screen, and within a day it fixed itself. Not sure what I may have done.

edit: this happened after I had the TV over a month.

It's fixed now though I'm still not sure what was wrong.

First I've heard of this. Since the TV is so new and you likely haven't tweaked too much, you could always factory reset it and try that.

That was going to be my next step if rebooting it didn't work.
 
Anyone playing FFXV on any of the LG 2016 OLEDs? If so, are you having issues adjusting your brightness while in HDR mode?

On my B6, I'm not sure what I should actually be seeing, because either I'm crushing blacks, or the brightness is too high.

1. If I have the brightness higher than 49, whenever a loading screen appears with black bars, it's obviously too high because I see a bunch of heavy noise/artifacts in the bars. 49 is completely black.

2. If I have the brightness at 49 it seems like near black details are absolutely demolished. One click up to 50 and the details return all around, yet 50 does not give accurate "black". The LG OLEDs have issues with near black details, but I don't really know if that's the issue here.

3. Even though it's in "HDR mode", I'm not actually sure the loading screens are calibrated with HDR in mind, but instead have it "off" until you're in the actual game.

I've also tried adjustments based off of the in game cactaur, but again, I don't know if that's setup to be adjusted with HDR. As soon as I hit 48 brightness, the cactaur in the black box vanishes, and at 49 reappears. That should be accurate, but it doesn't seem like it is.

I'm on the C6 here, so our sets will probably have slight deviations, but I'd suggest lowering the contrast. These are my settings if you are interested, I'm very happy, I get pure blacks and no crushed detail.

HDR Game:
OLED Light 100
Contrast 95
Sharpness 0
Brightness 51
Colour 55
Tint 0
Colour Temperature W35
 

TLZ

Banned
Anyone playing FFXV on any of the LG 2016 OLEDs? If so, are you having issues adjusting your brightness while in HDR mode?

On my B6, I'm not sure what I should actually be seeing, because either I'm crushing blacks, or the brightness is too high.

1. If I have the brightness higher than 49, whenever a loading screen appears with black bars, it's obviously too high because I see a bunch of heavy noise/artifacts in the bars. 49 is completely black.

2. If I have the brightness at 49 it seems like near black details are absolutely demolished. One click up to 50 and the details return all around, yet 50 does not give accurate "black". The LG OLEDs have issues with near black details, but I don't really know if that's the issue here.

3. Even though it's in "HDR mode", I'm not actually sure the loading screens are calibrated with HDR in mind, but instead have it "off" until you're in the actual game.

I've also tried adjustments based off of the in game cactaur, but again, I don't know if that's setup to be adjusted with HDR. As soon as I hit 48 brightness, the cactaur in the black box vanishes, and at 49 reappears. That should be accurate, but it doesn't seem like it is.

I'm on the C6 here, so our sets will probably have slight deviations, but I'd suggest lowering the contrast. These are my settings if you are interested, I'm very happy, I get pure blacks and no crushed detail.

HDR Game:
OLED Light 100
Contrast 95
Sharpness 0
Brightness 51
Colour 55
Tint 0
Colour Temperature W35

Mine's similar to yours except contrast is at 89.
 

Geneijin

Member
Huh, interesting. I'm sure the rtings reviews had the 43 VA without wide colour gamut and the 49 IPS with it. I might be wrong though!
If we're both referring to rtings.com, then yes, the 43" VA is WCG capable because that's the only unit they've tested and reviewed. They only knew about the 49" IPS because of user comments.

So you're saying to spend the extra $150 for the KS8000? Would I be better in spending $100 less for something like the Vizio M50-D1? Or is the Sony one still better for the $100 extra? For the price and size, I guess the KS8000 is the end all, be all?
Spend the extra $150 on the UN49KS8000 if 49" is also a top priority because you won't get the same quality with the Sony XBR49X800D since the 49" Sony is an IPS panel namely among other reasons. I wouldn't save money by buying the Vizio M50-D1 because not only is it not brighter than the Samsung or Sony (which is a potential concern if the TV will be in a bright room), but the DCI-P3 coverage (color volume) isn't enough for HDR when you consider nearly 100% of DCI-P3 will be ideal for the next few years. If you're asking between the Sony XBR49X800D and Vizio M50-D1, I'd personally get the Sony even though it's IPS because contrast can't masquerade lack of color saturation for HDR, but at that point, if your budget already allows for a UN49KS8000, you should get that really. I'd only suggest the Sony XBR43X800D when size isn't a huge concern. For that price and size, yes, the UN49KS8000 is the best choice.

The only other alternative besides the two GAF promoted last year within that budget range is the Vizio P50-C1, but it doesn't have the same color volume as the Samsung or Sony. The P50-C1 has FALD though, but that's not enough to suggest one over the UN49KS8000 frankly because of the higher peak brightness the Samsung achieves and color deficiencies in terms of DCI-P3 coverage compared to both the Samsung and Sony. If the P50-C1 was cheaper, I could see possible consideration for it, but the KS8000 just competes better at the same price point at this time of writing. Samsung's UN55KS8000 isn't an IPS either like the Vizio P55-C1. Input lag may also be a concern for more avid gamers on the 2016 Vizio P-series.
 

Kyoufu

Member
Care to expand on that? Curious what the issues are?

Not sure if it's fixed now but last year it would cause memory leakage, app crashes etc. I've had it disabled since.

Like holygeesus, I too don't know what the point of the feature is. WebOS is fast enough as it is.
 

Sanctuary

Member
Mine's similar to yours except contrast is at 89.

Default is at 100, and I already read in a few other places that for HDR to "display properly", you need to leave the contrast at 100 as well as the OLED (which causes severe eye fatigue in a dark room). This of course assumes the set isn't going to clip. Anyway, I don't leave it at 100, although it's hard to say exactly where it should be without actually having anything available to calibrate it in HDR. With non HDR, it's already setup correctly. I've just settled on moving the contrast to where I have it set for non HDR, as well as turning the OLED light down to 70 (which is still blazing for a dark room). I've also kept the brightness at 49. It being "incorrect" or whatever is still better than making my eyes feel like they are on fire after only an hour and a half.

I'm on the C6 here, so our sets will probably have slight deviations, but I'd suggest lowering the contrast. These are my settings if you are interested, I'm very happy, I get pure blacks and no crushed detail.

HDR Game:
OLED Light 100
Contrast 95
Sharpness 0
Brightness 51
Colour 55
Tint 0
Colour Temperature W35

I'm currently just using:

OLED 70
Contrast 97
Brightness 49
Color 55
Temp W30

Are you both actually playing this game though? If so, what's up with when you enter a diner that suddenly gets really dim as you're entering and then super bright once you're inside? As you walk in the screen gets darker as though there's a storm outside, despite it being really bright. Similarly, if you're inside a diner at night and look outside, it can be ridiculously dark. Almost, but not quite pitch black. As soon as you exit the door though, it gets a lot brighter (as bright as a night with clear skies and a full moon anyway).
 
Can anyone who has a B6 OLED confirm if your set has the compensation cycle red light on the back? When I had the C6, every time a comp cycle would run, a red light would activate on the back of the panel visible through the vents. Now, since having the B6 for a few days, I've yet to see the light activate. I didn't see the light as well during the full hour long comp cycle which I can confirm worked since it cleaned up some picture noise. Anyone have any insight? Thanks!
 

holygeesus

Banned
Can anyone who has a B6 OLED confirm if your set has the compensation cycle red light on the back? When I had the C6, every time a comp cycle would run, a red light would activate on the back of the panel visible through the vents. Now, since having the B6 for a few days, I've yet to see the light activate. I didn't see the light as well during the full hour long comp cycle which I can confirm worked since it cleaned up some picture noise. Anyone have any insight? Thanks!

If you leave a USB stick in, I believe it will light up when the cycle runs.
 

Haint

Member
So I bought the Vizio I mentioned above. I wasn't expecting much but this is waaay too much light bleed even for a cheapo $200 set. Hopefully I have better luck with the next one. It doesn't need to be perfect, just not horrible.

Why in the world would you pay $200 for a 32" 1080p when that Samsung 40" 4K 6290 is $290 at Sam's and Costco?
 

LilJoka

Member
Got my LG OLED B6 65"

My settings currently for Sky HD and HTPC:
ISF dark
OLED light 86
Contrast 74
Brightness 49/50 (a bit of black crush to stop dancing blacks)
Sharpeness HV 0
Dynamic contrast Low
Gamma BT.1886
Black level low
Color Warm2
Other enhancements off
Trumotion user 0/0 - it's working great for me. My tv is on an old version though. 03.17.07, I won't update because it's great right now.

For my gaming PC I enabled Ultra HD option on the TV and that let's me set RGB and Full RGB range on the GTX 970. Is there any point? Since I think the lag goes to 70ms. I adjusted the game mode preset so it isn't so bright. Brought it a little closer to my settings above for color/brightness/contrast.

1080p games look fantastic on the 4K tv. And so does Sky HD!
 
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