The Japanese 0083 Blu Ray set doesn't have English options of any kind.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
The Gundam |OT2| Another 5 years of Gunpla, Origins, and GUNDAMUUUU!
- Thread starter donkey show
- Start date
davidwhangchoi
Member
thanks tuffy
damn.... i know Macross frontier 2 movie blu ray box i got has english subs and heard jojo's bizarre blu ray has them too (i heard but can't confirm, too damn expensive) was getting greedy
hoping for a pipedream....
Even dropped the Wing dub and Subs.
Seems like all old Gundams lose all english items when shifted to Blu Ray.
Callibretto
Member
it's been a while since I make 1/100 gunpla, but wow I love 1/100 barbatos so far. the inner frame didn't have fancy moving parts like MG or RG I've made in the past, but I love all the details and it simply looks cool imo.
some progress photo
some progress photo
davidwhangchoi
Member
How bad are the stickers/ decals. I love the hg version but the stickers keep peeling off
Callibretto
Member
the only sticker I've applied so far is that pink sticker in the chest and the gold sticker for hip ball joint and butt. didn't have problem of them peeling off yet, although I usually didn't have peeling sticker problem with Bandai kits
Damn that means it probably has same sticker placement of the 1/144 but let me know when you finished
Pencils. microns, gundam brand line markers, gundam brand pour markers. There are a lot.
I'm partial to pour type.
davidwhangchoi
Member
panel lining is extremely easy. since it you mess up you can just wipe it off with your thumb and start again.
if you look a few posts back i recommend getting the gundam markers pictured
labeled:
GM01 (black)
GM02 (grey)
GM03 (brown)
use grey for white
black for darker parts like blue
and brown for red and yellow parts.
and watch a beginners video on youtube for panel lining gundams
the easy markers to use are
GM20
GM21
definitely google them and look them up.
Yeah I am looking to panel line my heavy arms and color in the missile pods with a grey or metallic touch.
I found the GM01-GMO3and added them to my cart.
can I use markers to color small parts or should I use something else?
also for top coating wouldn't it be best to panel line, top coat, then apply decals?
edit watching a video on this now and hory shid does panel lining look easy. Why haven't I done this already
I found the GM01-GMO3and added them to my cart.
can I use markers to color small parts or should I use something else?
also for top coating wouldn't it be best to panel line, top coat, then apply decals?
edit watching a video on this now and hory shid does panel lining look easy. Why haven't I done this already
davidwhangchoi
Member
those are the three that everyone starts w/ definately get the gm20 gm 21 as well, much easier to use as one of the GAFer's also posted.
in terms of coloring the missile pods you'll need some paint markers or paints which are different from the ones used on panel lines.
there's a different youtube clips on beginner painting small parts. also some forum members here i'm sure will chime in re: coloring the missile pods.
will do, I have been buying my gunpla on Amazon but I might have to switch to something else since they don't seem to have the gm21
davidwhangchoi
Member
getting the black one gm20 should be fine for now. it's really a good one.
davidwhangchoi
Member
You are the man ty! also I think I found the paint I want to use for the missiles
and a tamiya blue to paint the chest that I messed up earlier.
I prefer panel washing for panel lining instead of using pens. It comes out better.
Just thin down black/grey/whatever color paint you want until it is very thinned, thinner than airbrush, like water, then just use a brush or if you're like me and want more accuracy, a medical syringe for paint, and paint onto the panel lines.
It's fine to be messy because the paint is water enough to go through every seam and crack, something you can't do with just a pen.
After a bit, you just use water or thinner and a cotton swab and clean up. You get clean panel lines that way and you can also reuse the super thin paint for things like weathering. No need to spend money on Gundam Markers when you can just use paint and save up on materials you use more often.
Example of a panel wash with a syringe I did with my Strike Rouge Ootori. I am not back in California so I can't provide more recent example but this will do.
Also if you do decal and panel line, you always gloss coat before ever doing it so that you don't ruin your painted kit and so that the lining and decal apply easier.
Always have some gloss coat first and flat coat after. I use gloss coat much much more than flat coat since flat coat is used only for final application, gloss coat can be used as a thinner and it is a necessity for in between steps.
Just thin down black/grey/whatever color paint you want until it is very thinned, thinner than airbrush, like water, then just use a brush or if you're like me and want more accuracy, a medical syringe for paint, and paint onto the panel lines.
It's fine to be messy because the paint is water enough to go through every seam and crack, something you can't do with just a pen.
After a bit, you just use water or thinner and a cotton swab and clean up. You get clean panel lines that way and you can also reuse the super thin paint for things like weathering. No need to spend money on Gundam Markers when you can just use paint and save up on materials you use more often.
Example of a panel wash with a syringe I did with my Strike Rouge Ootori. I am not back in California so I can't provide more recent example but this will do.
Also if you do decal and panel line, you always gloss coat before ever doing it so that you don't ruin your painted kit and so that the lining and decal apply easier.
Always have some gloss coat first and flat coat after. I use gloss coat much much more than flat coat since flat coat is used only for final application, gloss coat can be used as a thinner and it is a necessity for in between steps.
davidwhangchoi
Member
i'm not too familiar w/ paints... pull the trigger on the panel line markers for now. since they seem like free shipping for each so it won't hurt you to order seperately.
paints i would wait for a few others to chime in.
davidwhangchoi
Member
I prefer panel washing for panel lining instead of using pens. It comes out better.
Just thin down black/grey/whatever color paint you want until it is very thinned, thinner than airbrush, like water, then just use a brush or if you're like me and want more accuracy, a medical syringe for paint, and paint onto the panel lines.
It's fine to be messy because the paint is water enough to go through every seam and crack, something you can't do with just a pen.
After a bit, you just use water or thinner and a cotton swab and clean up. You get clean panel lines that way and you can also reuse the super thin paint for things like weathering. No need to spend money on Gundam Markers when you can just use paint and save up on materials you use more often.
Example of a panel wash with a syringe I did with my Strike Rouge Ootori. I am not back in California so I can't provide more recent example but this will do.
Shun, are you going to build the MG destiny kit anytime soon? maybe you can show a few steps along the way that may help The Flow.
I won't even be home to start the Gunpla for another week.
In terms of painting and panel lining, the wash is the preferred way by a lot of people mainly because it's faster and you don't need to keep buying pens and throwing them away every time they run out.
You can do acrylics, I recommend it for a first time user especially if you are airbrushing. Too if you are hand paint. I don't really like enamel paints other than for washing or for weathering. I also recommend lacquer paints but know that those paints are best if you have experience painting because if you do not thin down properly, you can melt the plastic or make it brittle. Lacquer paints are really good and strong it just needs some care and caution since the fumes are poisonous.
Paints
Acrylics: Tamiya or really whatever hobby paint you can use. It doesn't matter as long as you use a good primer.
Lacquer: Gaianotes or Mr. Surface.
Steps
Really the way you should go is build your kit and get rid of all your nubs/sanding without using any seals or decals.
Prime your kit with primer paint. White/Grey/Black depending on the shade you want.
Paint your kit with 3-4 even coats.
Gloss Coat.
Panel Line THEN add Decals.
If you're done, then you flat coat. If you want to weather, you add another coat of gloss coat, weather with paints, then flat coat.
Another way of adding weathering is to paint your entire kit in silver before painting it, gloss coat, paint the colors you want, then use some thinner to "scratch off" the colored paint you put on so that you see the silver underneath, then gloss coat, panel line/decal, then add more weathering, and flat coat.
I have a gigantic backlog that I need more motivation to go through. I've built like 8 MG kits so far on display at university, and 4 RG and 4 HG kits I built and gave away to the children's hospital/jodo shinshu temple.
Other than MG Destiny ver Metal Build, I still have MG Shin Musha Gundam, 1/100 Avalanche Exia, SD Neo Zeong, HG Super Fumina, MG Sazabi Ver Ka, PG Astray Red Frame, PG Strike Freedom, and eventually the MG/1/100 G-Self and Kshatriya when those release.
In terms of painting and panel lining, the wash is the preferred way by a lot of people mainly because it's faster and you don't need to keep buying pens and throwing them away every time they run out.
You can do acrylics, I recommend it for a first time user especially if you are airbrushing. Too if you are hand paint. I don't really like enamel paints other than for washing or for weathering. I also recommend lacquer paints but know that those paints are best if you have experience painting because if you do not thin down properly, you can melt the plastic or make it brittle. Lacquer paints are really good and strong it just needs some care and caution since the fumes are poisonous.
Paints
Acrylics: Tamiya or really whatever hobby paint you can use. It doesn't matter as long as you use a good primer.
Lacquer: Gaianotes or Mr. Surface.
Steps
Really the way you should go is build your kit and get rid of all your nubs/sanding without using any seals or decals.
Prime your kit with primer paint. White/Grey/Black depending on the shade you want.
Paint your kit with 3-4 even coats.
Gloss Coat.
Panel Line THEN add Decals.
If you're done, then you flat coat. If you want to weather, you add another coat of gloss coat, weather with paints, then flat coat.
Another way of adding weathering is to paint your entire kit in silver before painting it, gloss coat, paint the colors you want, then use some thinner to "scratch off" the colored paint you put on so that you see the silver underneath, then gloss coat, panel line/decal, then add more weathering, and flat coat.
I have a gigantic backlog that I need more motivation to go through. I've built like 8 MG kits so far on display at university, and 4 RG and 4 HG kits I built and gave away to the children's hospital/jodo shinshu temple.
Other than MG Destiny ver Metal Build, I still have MG Shin Musha Gundam, 1/100 Avalanche Exia, SD Neo Zeong, HG Super Fumina, MG Sazabi Ver Ka, PG Astray Red Frame, PG Strike Freedom, and eventually the MG/1/100 G-Self and Kshatriya when those release.
davidwhangchoi
Member
^awesome can wait to see some of the builds Shun =)
amiami just posted
Mobile Suit Gundam: Iron-Blooded Orphans 1/100 High Resolution Model Gundam Barbatos Plastic Model(Pre-order)
16,000yen
amiami just posted
Mobile Suit Gundam: Iron-Blooded Orphans 1/100 High Resolution Model Gundam Barbatos Plastic Model(Pre-order)
16,000yen
No? it creates a layer of protection for your kit and the decals when applied over.
Depending on what kind of finish you want, you can use either a flat or gloss coat for your final finish.
It only ruins metallic seals because the coat would frost up the foil finish. But that's not really an issue since the effect isn't that bad and you can just paint on the eyes and camera anyway.
You always coat over decals.
The only times you don't do a flat/gloss finish is if you do a plated kit like the MG Unicorn 03 Phenex Gundam or some other super glossy plated kits or pieces like the gold parts for the RG Strike Freedom or the chrome parts for the MG Exia Ignition or RG Exia.
Metallic kits like Hyaku Shiki 2.0 and the Titanium Finish Unicorn/Sinanju are good to gloss coat because those finishes aren't affected by the coating.
Here are two kits I did, ended up giving these to a friend since one took up too much space and the other I'm waiting for the 1/100. I use my hobby shop's airbrush set up or a friend's so I don't paint as often as I would like. nor do I have the time considering my backlog and my university life.
Callibretto
Member
Would gun metal paint be affected from flat coat? For example, do I have to disassemble my barbatos posted above to coat them separately? Gloss coat for the inner frame and flat coat for the outer armor?
davidwhangchoi
Member
It's a new 1/100 line. The frame comes pre-assembled (I think) and includes diecast metal parts, and the runners of plastic armor parts receive a metallic/pearl coating. It's more detailed than the previously-released 1/100, with more moving parts (especially the pistons) and probably increased articulation as well.
It is like a partially built Metal Build
Ah I gotcha this is very helpful.
From what I saw on dengeki it's basically a 1/100 Barbatos with extra details and with extra finish plated parts for the gold and some of the other pieces.
It also comes with a lot of extras.
It's priced that way because of the extra details, metallic finish, and the other extras they add on.
It's kind of like the HD color ver of the Zeta 2.0 or the Titanium finish kits with an extra price tag to it.
It's priced that way because Bandai has it's consumers by the balls and people will pay anything for Bandai.
It isn't worth it because a lot of these kits have nub problems because of the extra plating. The only time it's worth it is in the case of Hyaku Shiki 2.0
Yes it would, but the effect isn't that bad because gunmetal isn't supposed to be super glossy anyway. I would say coat both ways and see which finish you like better.
I think your frame is fine and for what it is, it shouldn't be super glossy.
I would suggest going over some of your nubs again, sanding or shaving some down more since those will be noticeable after paint. I can see some on the legs and arms but other than that good shit.
I don't even have a set of dedicated nippers, I just use nail clippers and a NT Cutter hobby knife for my work and it's great.
More SEED tomorrow. 
I have a strange question, GundamGAF. Is there a translated light novel or other such work with really great descriptions of its mecha? I need it for research purposes. I'm writing a long-running mecha-centric sci-fi series and I'm terrible at the... well... mechanics of describing out-of-the-ordinary things.
I have the first "session" down (they're styled like 30-minute anime episodes, lolol) and I've gotten some fairly positive feedback but the one thing folks keep saying is that they don't understand what my mechs look like, or even what they are, lol. Not a huge ordeal since they feature only slightly in the first session, but it's going to be a real problem soon.
I have a strange question, GundamGAF. Is there a translated light novel or other such work with really great descriptions of its mecha? I need it for research purposes. I'm writing a long-running mecha-centric sci-fi series and I'm terrible at the... well... mechanics of describing out-of-the-ordinary things.
I have the first "session" down (they're styled like 30-minute anime episodes, lolol) and I've gotten some fairly positive feedback but the one thing folks keep saying is that they don't understand what my mechs look like, or even what they are, lol. Not a huge ordeal since they feature only slightly in the first session, but it's going to be a real problem soon.
Callibretto
Member
I'm not even sure I'll paint the whole thing. So far I've only airbrush the inner frame with gunmetal and hand paint the piston and cables with copper and silver.
I think I'll snap the rest of the armor first than see if there's a glaring spot of nubmark before I try to fix those part.
Pre built frame is kinda just a step off of what the RG line already does. I don't have any problem with it in theory, I just don't see what a diecast frame really adds to the model other the weight being really cool.
I'm also way more okay with pre built frames for a fragile 1/144 scale than I would be for the more robust 1/100 size. That's another reason I'm not super into that new series.
kiunchbb
www.dictionary.com
For those doing panel line, may be you want to consider using Tamiya Panel Line Accent, it is already pre-thinned for panel wash, and come with a tiny brush in the cap. You just need to drop the paints into the panel lines, then clean the excess with Q-Tip + zippo lighter fluid.
Not many people here a fan of the pour markers? These are fantastic for hard to reach places.
I gave up brush markers for these.
I gave up brush markers for these.
Pour markers are basically the same thing as just thinning black paint yourself and dripping in and cleaning up. It's convenient, but for some people using paint you already have is more cost and space effective.
klunchbb has the right thing too. Great for panel lining and it's convenient. I'd keep it just for the application brush, but I can just make my own with any color I want and reuse it.
klunchbb has the right thing too. Great for panel lining and it's convenient. I'd keep it just for the application brush, but I can just make my own with any color I want and reuse it.
davidwhangchoi
Member
More SEED tomorrow.
I have a strange question, GundamGAF. Is there a translated light novel or other such work with really great descriptions of its mecha? I need it for research purposes. I'm writing a long-running mecha-centric sci-fi series and I'm terrible at the... well... mechanics of describing out-of-the-ordinary things.
I have the first "session" down (they're styled like 30-minute anime episodes, lolol) and I've gotten some fairly positive feedback but the one thing folks keep saying is that they don't understand what my mechs look like, or even what they are, lol. Not a huge ordeal since they feature only slightly in the first session, but it's going to be a real problem soon.
Hey JeffZero,
not sure if this helps
If RG frames came completely pre-built as skeletons I wouldn't enjoy them half as much. Lol.
It's a good reference point! Thank you!
You wouldn't break them as much either.
Stellar. I went ahead and bookmarked this. Probably going to spend a few hours researching these in the next few days!
Fuck, I quit.
just RGs like the Zeta and Exia.
You did good on your Guntank (｡◕ฺˇε ˇ◕ฺ｡）
ThatChairMan
Member
Finally got around to ordering the last volume of the Origin manga and it arrives with tear on the cover.
Now I'm sad.
Now I'm sad.
blame haly and enron for feeding me lies. I only heard about this from them.
Anyway I've been looking everywhere for this kit and have had no luck at all. It's nowhere to be seen at Mandarake or any store at all...
This has been on my wishlist forever and I was amazed that I was even able to find an Avalanche Exia... The 1/100 Virtue/Nadleeh is like a unicorn in the gunpla market right now...
This is probably my most wanted kit, a 1/100 or MG Virtue+Nadleeh combo other than the MG G-Self/G-Arcane and Kshatriya I'm already waiting for...
This is probably my rarest kit at the moment... Either build it or resell it...
Callibretto
Member
Oh man, I've been looking for 1/100 Virtue for a while too. I had to settle for 3rd party hongli in the end. No idea how bad the hongli version is. I've tried throne zwei hongli before and they're crap, couldn't even finish it. A friend keep saying bigger hongli is better which is why I bought 1/100 virtue hongli. Don't know when I'll get to make it though.blame haly and enron for feeding me lies. I only heard about this from them.
Anyway I've been looking everywhere for this kit and have had no luck at all. It's nowhere to be seen at Mandarake or any store at all...
This has been on my wishlist forever and I was amazed that I was even able to find an Avalanche Exia... The 1/100 Virtue/Nadleeh is like a unicorn in the gunpla market right now...
This is probably my most wanted kit, a 1/100 or MG Virtue+Nadleeh combo other than the MG G-Self/G-Arcane and Kshatriya I'm already waiting for...
This is probably my rarest kit at the moment... Either build it or resell it...
Lined and decaled the RG Destiny I got from former GundamGaf member Enron (RIP). Will probably post pics and more impressions later, but I really dug that kit.
Today I finished up the Hyaku-Shiki 2.0. Such an amazing build. Really hope Bandai uses these hands more often because they are fantastic. Hold the weapons so securely and work really well. Everything about that kit is top notch. An easy recommend from me.
One thing I'll say is I wish official water slides would come back. I would gladly pay $2-5 for the upgrade. Dry transfers are way too easy to screw up and are monsters to put on curved surfaces and hard to reach locations.
Pour Markers are great. They serve a different function that normal thin markers, but still very useful
Today I finished up the Hyaku-Shiki 2.0. Such an amazing build. Really hope Bandai uses these hands more often because they are fantastic. Hold the weapons so securely and work really well. Everything about that kit is top notch. An easy recommend from me.
One thing I'll say is I wish official water slides would come back. I would gladly pay $2-5 for the upgrade. Dry transfers are way too easy to screw up and are monsters to put on curved surfaces and hard to reach locations.
Pour Markers are great. They serve a different function that normal thin markers, but still very useful
Similar threads
- Locked