I always those comparison images where they just make it brighter (like above) or more vibrant in post.
I always love those comparison images where they just make it brighter (like above) or more vibrant in post.
They don't have to be. RGBW doesn't make an exposure brighter than an RGB sensor if they have the same exposure settings. It's bullshit marketing.That's not the two same pictures.
I always love those comparison images where they just make it brighter (like above) or more vibrant in post.
My Sony NEX C3 should be arriving in a few days. Having been a "point & click" guy all my life, I'm kinda excited about the upgrade. I do have a question though... what exactly should I have in order to maintain my camera and lenses? I'm assuming that the lenses will come with covers and I already bought a camera bag. Are there any cleansers or dusters I should be looking into?
Color can also be easily adjusted through WB or PP. I don't trust any before/after shots from companies unless they post the raw.The color is still more accurate on the right one. Maybe Sony tried to show better dynamic range in high ISO?
Although this Bayer pattern strikes me as simpler and much less sophisticated version of what Fuji is doing.
Plus, human eyes are sensitive to green color. If you take out one green sub pixel to record low light sensitivity, you are basically giving up effective resolution for low light clarity.
good camera, same sensor as the d7000 and has autofocus for video which is a plus.
Also what do you need it for more? video or photography?
^ note the t2i does not have a flip out screen the canon t3i has a flip out screen (pretty much the same anyway)
Color can also be easily adjusted through WB or PP. I don't trust any before/after shots from companies unless they post the raw.
Lol the orange candle is more overexposed on the right image. The two photos were clearly taken either with different settings or adjusted afterwards.
I'm going for still photography. I know that the Nikon has a 16 mp sensor, the Canon an 18 mp (with practically same IQ despite the canon having more MP). I'm considering the 2ti as opposed to the 3ti because I don't really read of any noteworthy differences in still photos and the former is older and therefore cheaper.
What attracts me to the Nikon though is the intervalometer. I may want to dabble in time-lapse here and there, and its automatic in the Nikon (boy is it involved to do it the right way though hahaha).
Most of the MF SLR lenses should work on both EOS and NEX bodies. What Jupiter lens you want to buy?
I'm going for still photography. I know that the Nikon has a 16 mp sensor, the Canon an 18 mp (with practically same IQ despite the canon having more MP). I'm considering the 2ti as opposed to the 3ti because I don't really read of any noteworthy differences in still photos and the former is older and therefore cheaper.
What attracts me to the Nikon though is the intervalometer. I may want to dabble in time-lapse here and there, and its automatic in the Nikon (boy is it involved to do it the right way though hahaha).
You just want a 50mm lens? There are a million other options. Its not a SLR lens so obviously it wont work on Canon.Jupiter 8. It doesn't work on EOS, the mirror doesn't work properly. And Jpiter-9 is too soft, my Konica got me covered if I want a soft image. I need a very sharp image for city and landscape photography so I need a wide-angle lens. It's sufficiently harder to get a decent wide-angle soviet lens but I might search a bit more...
Also I'm suddenly interested in Helios-40. It swirls the background like crazy, I LIKE THAT. Pricey though.
You just want a 50mm lens? There are a million other options. Its not a SLR lens so obviously it wont work on Canon.
Get a Giotto Rocket-Air for dusting out lenses or the sensor should dust makes its way onto it. That and a microfiber cloth to clean the body with should be all you need unless your lens or sensor get dirtier than they should with normal use.
damn, I have to use a computer to do any sort of time lapse imagery.
the D5100 has better ISO for low light photography, the t2i/3i will have a better video mode out of the box. There pretty similarly matched, so I just recommend going into a store and testing each one out.
I think I'll save some money and buy 28mm Distagon.
It helps to have someone assisting you. A shoulder mount will do if you are shooting solo. The ideal solution I would guess is a focus puller, but I don't have one.
I use a Manfrotto 190XPROB and a Manfrotto 322RC2 joystick head and even when pulling focus the camera tens to remain pretty stationary. A joystick head is still less than ideal for video, though.
"t2i/3i will have a better video mode out of the box."
By that, do you mean that if I tinker with the setting of the D5100, the video quality will surpass the T2i/T3i? I know it has continuous AF, which is a good point for me.
BlueTsunami I am on a cellphone, what camera did you use for these photos. Very nice photos btw.
I got a 28/2.8 AIS. It focus very close but for scenic is not very sharp. If it wasn't for the fact that I don't care about this focal length I would be on the look out for a better lens.
X100 it is.
Reading and thinking the last few days, and going to a camera store to get a feel for my options in person, it comes down to the Fuji X100, probably. Clicked with me immediately when I used it, as opposed to the NEX and m4/3 cameras which felt ridiculous to hold and operate and had shit for manual controls.
I'm thinking about doing another EviL Travels gaf photoblog this summer, for Europe, and whatever I choose would have to be something I both wouldn't mind taking with me everywhere for a couple months, wouldn't be too bulky or conspicuous (especially since I like walking around places alone at night, haw), and with great picture quality and low light performance. I gotta have physical manual controls, too, and the Fuji X line is awesome for that. I also don't mind sticking with a prime lens at all.
There's the X-Pro1: cool new premium tech with shockingly good performance, very high quality interchangeable lenses, grabbing a 50mm f/1.4 will give me significantly more flexibility with DoF than the X100's 35mm f/2. But I'm worried that it's getting too big for my purposes, and it's also a little unnecessarily spendy at likely $2300 for a kit, also something I'd have to concern myself about a bit more when traveling. Would only get one lens from the initial lineup, and the rest are like 6-18 months away.
So, in favor of the X100: smaller, lighter, way cheaper, silent operation, very inconspicuous retro looks, great performance in its own right. 35mm equiv is probably my first choice for an all-around traveling focal length. Like $800 second hand right now, barely more than the price of an X-Pro1 lens.
X10: not enough of an upgrade from my S95, wanted APS-C if possible and better low light than a P&S can do, etc. etc.
So that settles things I think. I guess there's the Canon G1x too, but I just can't muster any enthusiasm for it whatsoever. Maybe the ugly brick-like design-by-committee nature and the (understandably) slow lens contribute. I also really don't care about zoom lenses much; only time I've missed having a long telephoto option is at Yellowstone with the wildlife there, and I'd need more like 200mm for that anyhow. X100 it is.
Reading and thinking the last few days, and going to a camera store to get a feel for my options in person, it comes down to the Fuji X100, probably. Clicked with me immediately when I used it, as opposed to the NEX and m4/3 cameras which felt ridiculous to hold and operate and had shit for manual controls.
I'm thinking about doing another EviL Travels gaf photoblog this summer, for Europe, and whatever I choose would have to be something I both wouldn't mind taking with me everywhere for a couple months, wouldn't be too bulky or conspicuous (especially since I like walking around places alone at night, haw), and with great picture quality and low light performance. I gotta have physical manual controls, too, and the Fuji X line is awesome for that. I also don't mind sticking with a prime lens at all.
There's the X-Pro1: cool new premium tech with shockingly good performance, very high quality interchangeable lenses, grabbing a 50mm f/1.4 will give me significantly more flexibility with DoF than the X100's 35mm f/2. But I'm worried that it's getting too big for my purposes, and it's also a little unnecessarily spendy at likely $2300 for a kit, also something I'd have to concern myself about a bit more when traveling. Would only get one lens from the initial lineup, and the rest are like 6-18 months away.
So, in favor of the X100: smaller, lighter, way cheaper, silent operation, very inconspicuous retro looks, great performance in its own right. 35mm equiv is probably my first choice for an all-around traveling focal length. Like $800 second hand right now, barely more than the price of an X-Pro1 lens.
X10: not enough of an upgrade from my S95, wanted APS-C if possible and better low light than a P&S can do, etc. etc.
So that settles things I think. I guess there's the Canon G1x too, but I just can't muster any enthusiasm for it whatsoever. Maybe the ugly brick-like design-by-committee nature and the (understandably) slow lens contribute. I also really don't care about zoom lenses much; only time I've missed having a long telephoto option is at Yellowstone with the wildlife there, and I'd need more like 200mm for that anyhow. X100 it is.
4K DSLR is supposed to be more at the end of the year, according to that event Canon had in November. Definitely not happening on the 5D3.
IMHO no, nikon just does not have the video background to beat canon.
I have a D7000, and the older canon 7d still beats it for video.
Nikon added the live view continuous AF, but it is not a "feature" that is actually usable. It is super slow, inaccurate, and noisy unless you have an external mic hooked up - even with "silent" wave motor lenses. For any serious video work you WILL be manual focusing, preferably with a follow focus rig.
Nikon also has the hangup of not being able to adjust apature in liveview/video mode. There is a "hack" to make it work but you need an older lens with an apature ring (a non "G" lens). Of course on a D5100 these old lenses will not autofocus at all. There are a few lenses with built in focus motors and an apature ring, but these are the $1000+ pro lenses, and are being phased out in favor of "G" versions. Actually I am not sure this hack will even work on a D5100, as it lacks the apature feeler for older lenses.
The D7000 is also plagued by some pretty nasty aliasing on horizontal lines. Not sure if the D5100 is the same, but it is the same sensor, so I'd imagine the lower end body would be similar if not worse.
The canon's also have 720p 60fps. The current nikons top out at 30fps in 720p and 24fps on 1080!
Finally, there is hacked firmware available for the canons! Used to increase bitrate and add useful overlays like audio levels to the liveview. I wouldn't personally use it, but to my knowledge no one has been able (or bothered with) hacking nikons firmware to improve the video performance.
In short if you plan on doing allot of video, go canon (or panasonic, I don't have much personal experience with them, but they are supposed to be good).
I like the ergos/layout of the nikons, but that is a personal preference - you need to go to a store and actually play with them to see what camera fits you better.
Just keep in mind the limitations of the nikon for video and if any of these will be a huge problem. Most of it can be worked around, and you can still get good video out of it, but I go for the canon any time I need to shoot a video. Hope this helps!
Got mine for $200 where the 28/2 Distagon would run you around $900-$1000
I can buy it for 400$ now but I still need to ponder a bit. On the one hand I need a wide-angle lens. On the other hand I need money, lol.
BTW,
What else do I need to buy with my dlsr besides a memory card? The two stores I went to, told me I need a filter, some lens pen(?), and all kinds of random shit. Thats one reason I did not buy anything. Felt like I was being oversold.
Thanks for the advice.
I went to the store today, and played around with the 60D, T2i, T3i and the D5100. Will go to another store, to play with the GH2.
So far, the D5100 felt the best for me. I don't know what it was, and I'm not sure if I should buy the camera based on feel. It just clicked with me. I really enjoyed how in-depth and complex the menus were. The amount of control I seemed to have really impressed me. I could change and tinker pretty much anything. It seemed like a camera that I as a beginner could grow with.
BAH!
This is too hard to decide.
I'll play with he GH2 tomorrow and see how that one is.
GAH!
I'm not sure if I should buy the camera based on feel.
Evilord, you can crop for tele scenes and use panorama software for wide angle scens. Thats all you need. Zoom lens is overrated.
Just make sure you use manual exposure for panorama photos.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/425812-USA/Canon_1242B002_EF_S_17_55mm_f_2_8_IS.html
I don't think so. Some of my best shots are with this lens. Amazingly versatile, great for weddings, outdoors, portraits.
I'm wondering, can you still get a hold on a D90 ?
That camera is still pretty good. Better than the D5100 since it has a focus motor.
"t2i/3i will have a better video mode out of the box."
By that, do you mean that if I tinker with the setting of the D5100, the video quality will surpass the T2i/T3i? I know it has continuous AF, which is a good point for me.
And, got a mint X100 w/ the legit Fuji $130 leather case for $920 total. Not bad at all.
Craigslist?
Is there an online guide somewhere that I can learn about cameras, different basic vocabulary, etc.?
I'd love to get into photography with a better camera but I don't know where to start. All I have is a crappy point-and-shoot Cybershot (and for the life of me, I can't get it to shoot good pictures when it's not 100% sunny in the middle of the day outside without getting a blurry effect).
And, got a mint X100 w/ the legit Fuji $130 leather case for $920 total. Not bad at all.
Nice. You are set for now. A possible future upgrade would be a ND filter to give you more options in daylight scenarios with that fixed lens.