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[345triangle]

just got the 50 1.8 for my nex-7. dunno how useful it'll be for street but it's a start!

i kind of want that sigma 30 2.8 for a walkaround but i'll need to rebuy the 30 3.5 macro at some point, so probably can't justify it. maybe the 19 2.8 would be cool for taking out at night.

 

[tino]

just got the 50 1.8 for my nex-7. dunno how useful it'll be for street but it's a start!

i kind of want that sigma 30 2.8 for a walkaround but i'll need to rebuy the 30 3.5 macro at some point, so probably can't justify it. maybe the 19 2.8 would be cool for taking out at night.

I read early buyer report that the 19mm has distortion too. It's not that much better than the kit lens. I main problem is why is it so cheap looking.

 

[giga]

DPReview finally posted some raws. No 5D3 up yet though. 50MB per file is kind of insane.

6400

12800

25600

http://www.dpreview.com/previews/nikonD800/7

 

[BlueTsunami]

I think the D800 high ISO performance is pretty good considering the resolution advantage it has. At this point I'm way more interested in base ISO performance. Not that this all matters to me in reality since I'm hoping someone releases a FF mirrorless this year.

 

[Antiwhippy]

Wouldn't using it at that ISO be pretty redundant seeing that it'll most likely be a studio camera and not really be used in ISOs that high?

 

[BlueTsunami]

Wouldn't using it at that ISO be pretty redundant seeing that it'll most likely be a studio camera and not really be used in ISOs that high?

I can see people using the high ISO and reduced Megapixel modes for low light shooting (you see a lot of low light photos with the D700) but yes the huge resolution won't really be used to full effect off a tripod and especially so in low light handheld. But its the duality of this (good higher ISO performance and huge resolution for studio shooting) that is enticing.. well that is if the base ISO is good.

 

[SaitoH]

I have a question about ND faders. I borrowed a friends fader yesterday to try it out and took this pic:

2.5 second exposure @ F22

Same image at 1/1000 / F11

Any idea what is causing the weird banding in the ND image?

 

[CrudeDiatribe]

Any idea what is causing the weird banding in the ND image?

It's Dartmouth.

 

[giga]

I have a question about ND faders. I borrowed a friends fader yesterday to try it out and took this pic:

2.5 second exposure @ F22

[IG]http://i.imgur.com/UVGCHl.jpg[/IMG]

Same image at 1/1000 / F11

IMG]http://i.imgur.com/SeWeel.jpg[/IMG]

Any idea what is causing the weird banding in the ND image?

Is it a cheap ND filter? Brand and model?

Edit: Actually, diffraction might be it. http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

Also…CR2 class rumor from canon rumors.

Mirrorless Announcement
I’m told that Canon’s foray into the mirrorless world will begin in August with an announcement. Photokina is in September, so it makes a lot of sense to announce at the end of summer.

New Full Frame
A suggestion that Canon will announce an “entry level” full frame camera in the fall of 2012. A true replacement to the 5D Mark II?

 

[BlueTsunami]

Also…CR2 class rumor from canon rumors.

New Full Frame
A suggestion that Canon will announce an “entry level” full frame camera in the fall of 2012. A true replacement to the 5D Mark II?

Photokina this year is going to be so damn crazy. You've got Leica announcing something soon and possibly showcasing stuff there, then there's Canon and Ricoh/Pentax possibly has great things to show.

 

[Aruarian Reflection]

Has anybody used a lens rental website before and have a recommended place? I looked up a couple but prices are somewhat steep. I think I might even be better off buying a used one on the aftermarket and reselling it after my vacation.

Looking for the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 L II

 

[Zoe]

How are these filters for a cheap macro solution?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004ZCAW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[tino]

Has anybody used a lens rental website before and have a recommended place? I looked up a couple but prices are somewhat steep. I think I might even be better off buying a used one on the aftermarket and reselling it after my vacation.

Looking for the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 L II

I agree. Also be presistant and use gixen to find the best ebay deal.

I use rental but I live in NY and I can rent a 2.8 pro zoom for $30 for a 3.5 day weekendfrom Adorama.

 

[jmdajr]

Finally took the plunge and got the Nikon d7000. Too bad it wasn't even in stock and have to wait till it ships to the store.

edit: question..what does dxomark rate exactly?

 

[captive]

Finally took the plunge and got the Nikon d7000. Too bad it wasn't even in stock and have to wait till it ships to the store.

edit: question..what does dxomark rate exactly?

pretty much just the raw sensor output. I wouldn't get hung up on it, while they offer useful information it tends to be more for nergasms and arguments over which cameras sensor is the best.
You know which one is the best? The one you have with you.

 

[jmdajr]

pretty much just the raw sensor output. I wouldn't get hung up on it, while they offer useful information it tends to be more for nergasms and arguments over which cameras sensor is the best.
You know which one is the best? The one you have with you.

Gotcha

 

[jmdajr]

So there a different between regular ISO and Hi-ISO/extened?

Just trying to learn here.

 

[StopMakingSense]

So there a different between regular ISO and Hi-ISO/extened?

Just trying to learn here.

ISO rated sensitivities conform to a minimum signal to noise ratio.

 

[giga]

So there a different between regular ISO and Hi-ISO/extened?

Just trying to learn here.

Extended isos are artificially pushed, instead of being native to the sensor. Usually results in a big downgrade in image quality and dynamic range.

 

[Flo_Evans]

So there a different between regular ISO and Hi-ISO/extened?

Just trying to learn here.

Without getting overly high-technical, the "normal" ISO range is achieved by analog means of boosting the voltage to the photon receptors on the sensor. "high" is a post sensor gain that is basically taking the value received from the sensor and doubles it.

You tend to lose a ton of dynamic range because let's say you have values of 0-256 in an 8-bit image, as soon as you hit 128*2 everything beyond that = 256.

It's generally best avoided unless you absolutely must shoot ninjas in moonlight.

BTW, I highly recommend this book to go along with the d7000 http://www.bythom.com/nikond7000guide.htm very informative, answers questions like this in explicit detail and goes over every single little setting on the camera what it does and more importantly why you would want to change that setting.

 

[slothmeister]

Hey guys,

I've had enough of my crumpler backpack, I'm finding its just not big enough.

Can anyone recommend a rucksack under £100 that can carry the following whilst looking quite nice (not a fan of the stylings of lowepro bags)

Nikon d7000
70-200 f2.8
17-50mm f2.8
10-20mm
Flash gun
assorted filters and adapters
Batteries and blower
Memory cards
Torch
Tripod holder

Most important thing is space to put lunch or a lightweight coat in as well, this is the main reason for my wanting to swap.

Thanks.

 

[jmdajr]

Without getting overly high-technical, the "normal" ISO range is achieved by analog means of boosting the voltage to the photon receptors on the sensor. "high" is a post sensor gain that is basically taking the value received from the sensor and doubles it.

You tend to lose a ton of dynamic range because let's say you have values of 0-256 in an 8-bit image, as soon as you hit 128*2 everything beyond that = 256.

It's generally best avoided unless you absolutely must shoot ninjas in moonlight.

BTW, I highly recommend this book to go along with the d7000 http://www.bythom.com/nikond7000guide.htm very informative, answers questions like this in explicit detail and goes over every single little setting on the camera what it does and more importantly why you would want to change that setting.

Hey everyone I appreciate these answers. So basically Hi IS0 is in the realm of digital zoom. It's "fake."

I'll give that book a look.

 

[jmdajr]

Hey guys,

I've had enough of my crumpler backpack, I'm finding its just not big enough.

Can anyone recommend a rucksack under £100 that can carry the following whilst looking quite nice (not a fan of the stylings of lowepro bags)

Nikon d7000
70-200 f2.8
17-50mm f2.8
10-20mm
Flash gun
assorted filters and adapters
Batteries and blower
Memory cards
Torch
Tripod holder

Most important thing is space to put lunch or a lightweight coat in as well, this is the main reason for my wanting to swap.

Thanks.

I was going to recommend this buy now maybe not...

Lowepro SlingShot 202 AW

 

[Represent.]

DPReview finally posted some raws. No 5D3 up yet though. 50MB per file is kind of insane.

6400

12800

25600

http://www.dpreview.com/previews/nikonD800/7

D4 is a beast. :bow

D7000 looks to be on par with the 5DMII, maybe even a bit better. I think my next camera will be the D7000.

 

[Damaged]

Hey guys,

I've had enough of my crumpler backpack, I'm finding its just not big enough.

Can anyone recommend a rucksack under £100 that can carry the following whilst looking quite nice (not a fan of the stylings of lowepro bags)

Nikon d7000
70-200 f2.8
17-50mm f2.8
10-20mm
Flash gun
assorted filters and adapters
Batteries and blower
Memory cards
Torch
Tripod holder

Most important thing is space to put lunch or a lightweight coat in as well, this is the main reason for my wanting to swap.

Thanks.

I love the Kata bags and the Manfrotto bags but Im not sure if you will find one that does everything you need at that price

http://www.manfrotto.co.uk/camera-bags

http://www.katabags.co.uk/Kata+Bag+Chooser/Photo/Kata+Bag+Chooser+Photo/16686748

Edit: I use this one and I swear I only paid about £60 for it and not the £119 that site says so you may be able to find them cheaper elsewhere

http://www.katabags.co.uk/digital-rucksack-for-2-pro-d-slr-bodies-3-4-lenses-up-to-a-KTDR-466I-BB

 

[Flo_Evans]

Hey guys,

I've had enough of my crumpler backpack, I'm finding its just not big enough.

Can anyone recommend a rucksack under £100 that can carry the following whilst looking quite nice (not a fan of the stylings of lowepro bags)

Nikon d7000
70-200 f2.8
17-50mm f2.8
10-20mm
Flash gun
assorted filters and adapters
Batteries and blower
Memory cards
Torch
Tripod holder

Most important thing is space to put lunch or a lightweight coat in as well, this is the main reason for my wanting to swap.

Thanks.

F-stop?

Basically they sell backpacks + internal camera cases, so you could just buy the internal part and use any pack you want. Or get the whole deal from them.

http://fstopgear.com/en/icu-pro

 

[zephervack]

So my girlfriend dropped my old SD 700 IS which I loved, so now i find myself without a P&S camera.

Im considering buying a 4/3 camera, but im a bit confused at the prices, is the PEN EPL-1 the only choice I have if my budget is less than $400?

Anyway, whats the best compact camera I can buy for less than $400? Ever since I got my 7D I have been out of the loop for compact cameras, I wish canon had a 4/3 so that I could reuse my glass with AF.

 

[Aquavelvaman]

You can get a gf2 with kit lens for just over $400 on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A8ZQJS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
43 new from $394.88

 

[opticalmace]

Picked up a Sony 18-250 lens for my A55. Perfect for my upcoming trip to Europe. Have looked at it for a year or so but I saw one on sale and finally bit.

Can't wait to go!

 

[Zyzyxxz]

You can get a gf2 with kit lens for just over $400 on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A8ZQJS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
43 new from $394.88

I got my body+kit used for $300. There are plenty around.

 

[tino]

I got my body+kit used for $300. There are plenty around.

Newegg sold the kit for 340 during Black Friday. One month afterward you can easily find a new kit on ebay for 300. I really think at that price range people don't want interchangeable lens system.

Panasonic is going to repackage the GF3 and sell it as GF5 soon. They have pretty much run the GF model line into the ground.

 

[Flo_Evans]

Gah my cousin in LA just got his 5DmkIII. I am super jelly spent all my toy monies on this iPad!

 

[Zyzyxxz]

Newegg sold the kit for 340 during Black Friday. One month afterward you can easily find a new kit on ebay for 300. I really think at that price range people don't want interchangeable lens system.

Panasonic is going to repackage the GF3 and sell it as GF5 soon. They have pretty much run the GF model line into the ground.

GF5 at least has a new version of the same sensor they've been tweaking so better ISO performance but overall I'm wondering whats taking them so long with the GH3?

 

[AVclub]

What would you guys recommend for a novice shooting people in an indoor studio environment with tripod and lighting? I have access to studio setups and some model friends want me to shoot them, but my current camera is a Canon S100. The image quality is kind of nice, but feels a bit flat and doesn't look professional.

 

[tino]

What would you guys recommend for a novice shooting people in an indoor studio environment with tripod and lighting? I have access to studio setups and some model friends want me to shoot them, but my current camera is a Canon S100. The image quality is kind of nice, but feels a bit flat and doesn't look professional.

Off camera flash is the easiest way to create studio look. So get a decent/bootleg setup depends on your budget.

Wait a s100? OK I got nothing.

 

[Flo_Evans]

What would you guys recommend for a novice shooting people in an indoor studio environment with tripod and lighting? I have access to studio setups and some model friends want me to shoot them, but my current camera is a Canon S100. The image quality is kind of nice, but feels a bit flat and doesn't look professional.

Can the studio lights be setup to be optical slaves (triggered by the built in flash on the s100?) or are they hot lights?

 

[AVclub]

Can the studio lights be setup to be optical slaves (triggered by the built in flash on the s100?) or are they hot lights?

S100 doesn't have a hot shoe it's a pocket camera with RAW capabilities. That's why I figure I need another camera with a hot shoe and lens swapping options. The studio setup I have access to doesn't include any flashes or triggered lights. There's basic 3 point lighting and some extra effects/fill lights available. I'm shooting both full body and headshots.

 

[zephervack]

You can get a gf2 with kit lens for just over $400 on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A8ZQJS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
43 new from $394.88

Would you say this is a better camera than the Pen EPL-1, looking at the sample pictures at dpreview, the EPL-1 looks to have better image quality and it also has in body Stabilizer while being cheaper.

 

[GamePnoy74]

My ideal Olympus OM-D E-M5 setup: Oly 12mm 2.0, Panny/Leica 25mm 1.4, Oly 45mm 1.8...

*drool*

(taken from an OM-D review at a Chinese website)

 

[JORMBO]

What would you guys recommend for a novice shooting people in an indoor studio environment with tripod and lighting? I have access to studio setups and some model friends want me to shoot them, but my current camera is a Canon S100. The image quality is kind of nice, but feels a bit flat and doesn't look professional.

Upgrade camera

If you're serious about it, invest in lighting. Getting a decent brand will last you a long time. I prefer studio strobes for their power and wide variety of modifers. Alien Bees are affordable, durable and work well. There are plenty of other brands also. Speedlights also work if you want something more portable. You can start with one light and add more as you learn how to use what you have and feel restricted.

You can also get creative using foamcore and reflectors. I've built some sets mixing a lot of lights and foamcore that look like obstacle courses

 

[AVclub]

Upgrade camera

If you're serious about it, invest in lighting. Getting a decent brand will last you a long time. I prefer studio strobes for their power and wide variety of modifers. Alien Bees are affordable, durable and work well. There are plenty of other brands also. Speedlights also work if you want something more portable. You can start with one light and add more as you learn how to use what you have and feel restricted.

You can also get creative using foamcore and reflectors. I've built some sets mixing a lot of lights and foamcore that look like obstacle courses

Thanks for the input, I'll check out the lights you suggested. I'm actually looking for a recommendation for a good camera for novice photograph which will give me good studio performance and flexibility without spending a fortune.

 

[RuGalz]

Thanks for the input, I'll check out the lights you suggested. I'm actually looking for a recommendation for a good camera for novice photograph which will give me good studio performance and flexibility without spending a fortune.

You could always start with an used body or previous gen model. There are plenty of entry level Dslr. The main deciding factor should be what you are planning to shoot and lenses you need for it.

Personally I went with Pentax 2 years ago when I started cuz I wasn't sure if this hobby was going to stick and they offer some good performers at good prices. Haven't felt the need to look else where yet and I just picked up the heavily discounted K5 due to successor due out later this year. Very small and rugged body for a pro-sumer camera.

 

[Damaged]

My ideal Olympus OM-D E-M5 setup: Oly 12mm 2.0, Panny/Leica 25mm 1.4, Oly 45mm 1.8...

*drool*

(taken from an OM-D review at a Chinese website)

Looks awesome, would be tempted to get that panny/leica 25mm 1.4 for my wifes EPL-1 but i think she knows I would steal her camera lol

 

[jmdajr]

So how important is the speed of the SD memory card?

I know it doesn't really matter for point and shoots. Not from my tests anyway.

Would it be silly to shoot with class 4 cards, because I have those already. I just want to know the legitimacy of these speeds and that I'm not just being swindled from my money like some sort of hdmi monster cable.

 

[Chairhome]

So how important is the speed of the SD memory card?

I know it doesn't really matter for point and shoots. Not from my tests anyway.

Would it be silly to shoot with class 4 cards, because I have those already. I just want to know the legitimacy of these speeds and that I'm not just being swindled from my money like some sort of hdmi monster cable.

Depends on what you're using it for. I use a class 10 SD card in my 60D because on lower class cards, video can't handle more than a few minutes of recording (at 1080p) because the buffer fills up and doesn't transfer to the card fast enough. Also helpful if you shoot burst and in RAW. If you're just shooting jpegs it shouldn't matter as much because those files are much smaller and will transfer to the card fast enough that the buffer won't fill up.

 

[jmdajr]

Depends on what you're using it for. I use a class 10 SD card in my 60D because on lower class cards, video can't handle more than a few minutes of recording (at 1080p) because the buffer fills up and doesn't transfer to the card fast enough. Also helpful if you shoot burst and in RAW. If you're just shooting jpegs it shouldn't matter as much because those files are much smaller and will transfer to the card fast enough that the buffer won't fill up.

I see. Well amazon seems to have some pretty decent deals. at least for 8gb/16gb cards

 

[Flo_Evans]

So how important is the speed of the SD memory card?

I know it doesn't really matter for point and shoots. Not from my tests anyway.

Would it be silly to shoot with class 4 cards, because I have those already. I just want to know the legitimacy of these speeds and that I'm not just being swindled from my money like some sort of hdmi monster cable.

Depends on the camera.

And how you are shooting.

A DSLR has a certain amount of buffer that hold the images before they get written to the card. A high speed cards only real benefit is clearing the buffer out faster so you can take more shots.

For example, the D7000 has a pretty high framerate of 6fps. But it also has a relatively small buffer for the size of the RAW files it produces. So if you are firing at full speed the buffer is full after 12 shots. Thats 2 seconds if you are counting! Then the camera has to wait till the images are written to the card from the buffer to take more.

With a class 4 card this slows the camera to a crawl and it goes about 1~2fps. With my fast card it maintains about 3fps... not exactly huge a huge difference but you can tell a difference.

If this is important or not to you is the real question. IMHO if you need to "spray and pray" with long high speed bursts the better option is to switch to JPG so more images fit in the buffer, or buy a camera with a bigger buffer.

You also need to consider that a card with a higher speed than your camera can write is a waste. The D7000 tops out at about 30Mb/s so buying a card faster than that will not speed it up any. Of course if you have a fast card reader you can transfer the files to your computer faster, but that doesn't make that much of a difference to me.

I would look around and see if you can find the max speed your camera can write, then buy a card no faster than that.

But again, if you are not shooting extended bursts none of this really matters.

 

[jmdajr]

Depends on the camera.



For example, the D7000 has a pretty high framerate of 6fps. But it also has a relatively small buffer for the size of the RAW files it produces. So if you are firing at full speed the buffer is full after 12 shots. Thats 2 seconds if you are counting! Then the camera has to wait till the images are written to the card from the buffer to take more.

With a class 4 card this slows the camera to a crawl and it goes about 1~2fps. With my fast card it maintains about 3fps... not exactly huge a huge difference but you can tell a difference.

If this is important or not to you is the real question. IMHO if you need to "spray and pray" with long high speed bursts the better option is to switch to JPG so more images fit in the buffer, or buy a camera with a bigger buffer.

That's what I got the D7000. Thanks for the advice, including shooting JPEG for Burst.

 

[Flo_Evans]

That's what I got the D7000. Thanks for the advice, including shooting the top on JPEG for Burst.

So what would it take to shoot at 6fps in RAW? I guess that's not even possible huh.

Well it does, as long as you are only firing 12 shot bursts... then waiting for the buffer to clear before starting another.

If you want a camera that shoots faster you are gonna have to pony up for the D4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=U...eature=player_detailpage&v=BcRiNm1sbzc#t=303s !

Check out this site for actual write speed tests with a bunch of cards on the D7000 http://sportsphotoguy.com/nikon-d7000-raw-burst-test/

I have found from messing around there are a few settings that can slow the D7000 down too.

Turn "active D lighting" OFF - this is a post processing setting that tries to lighten the shadows and bring down the highlights to increase apparent dynamic range. It only does this to jpegs though. But it also does this it to the embedded jpeg in the RAW file.

Turn "high ISO noise reduction" OFF - this only effects speed if you are shooting high ISO (1600+ I think) but it slows it down pretty bad. Again this only does it to jpeg but it effects you even when RAW because the camera must process the embedded jpg.

Turn image review OFF - this displays the last pic taken, only problem is it reads this from the card, so if you are trying to read and write at the same time, well you can guess what happens!

 

[sneaky77]

So I have a quick "metering mode" question / technique advice

What is the one you guys use the most, I think I mostly have spot metering on my camera, but any advice on when to use other modes or when spot metering is just not very effective? Or the best way to meter before focusing like should I point at the sky and meter and then recompose (I read this a lot on the exposure book I been reading) but a lot of times when I do this the exposure ends up being way too dark.