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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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So I have a quick "metering mode" question / technique advice

What is the one you guys use the most, I think I mostly have spot metering on my camera, but any advice on when to use other modes or when spot metering is just not very effective? Or the best way to meter before focusing like should I point at the sky and meter and then recompose (I read this a lot on the exposure book I been reading) but a lot of times when I do this the exposure ends up being way too dark.



I think mine is set to spot metering. Metering doesn't work with old glass on my D90, so I have to do test shots and chimp with the histogram, so I end up just doing that with modern glass too and adjusting the EV compensation for the situation.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
So I have a quick "metering mode" question / technique advice

What is the one you guys use the most, I think I mostly have spot metering on my camera, but any advice on when to use other modes or when spot metering is just not very effective? Or the best way to meter before focusing like should I point at the sky and meter and then recompose (I read this a lot on the exposure book I been reading) but a lot of times when I do this the exposure ends up being way too dark.

For me it depends on the subject. I used to leave my Camera in center weighted mode which was good for metering tough lighting scenes (backlight and lots of shadow and light) but for landscape I found Evaluative was best for hitting the right exposure for the whole scene. When using center weighted for landscapes I would get an image that felt unbalanced in regards to exposure due to the camera exposing for the sky or ground (whatever I've metered off of). Spot metering is even more extreme with how it exposes for the center area (believe its like 98% or something of the cameras exposure consideration).
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
So I have a quick "metering mode" question / technique advice

What is the one you guys use the most, I think I mostly have spot metering on my camera, but any advice on when to use other modes or when spot metering is just not very effective? Or the best way to meter before focusing like should I point at the sky and meter and then recompose (I read this a lot on the exposure book I been reading) but a lot of times when I do this the exposure ends up being way too dark.



There's no real quick and easy answer, but lett's see how I do on an iPad. First, the reason your method of pointing at the sky and then decomposing yields dark results is because the sky is very bright, obviously. it's typically generating the light. Whereas the ground and other objects have to reflect that light back to camera.

Which mode to use is really a matter of personal preference and what your trying to accomplish.

ESP(don't know what it's called on other systems) meters the entire scene, then averages it and comes out with what it thinks is the best exposure. This is similar to the zone system.

Spot is great when you have really strong lights or darks contrasted with the opposite, or you otherwise that one particular area to be exposed perfectly and don't care as much about the rest of the scene. Spot usually meters 2% of the entire scene.

Some cameras also have spot hi and spot low, meaning you tell it which one to use based on the spot your metering being bright or dark with the background being the opposite.

Center weighted is similar to spot but meters a higher percentage somewhere around 5-15 % but I forget what my manual said.


I mostly use ESP or center weight for everything, and then exposure bias from there. Spot is great for shooting theaters or concerts where there is a light on the main actor(s).
 

RuGalz

Member
So I have a quick "metering mode" question / technique advice

What is the one you guys use the most, I think I mostly have spot metering on my camera, but any advice on when to use other modes or when spot metering is just not very effective? Or the best way to meter before focusing like should I point at the sky and meter and then recompose (I read this a lot on the exposure book I been reading) but a lot of times when I do this the exposure ends up being way too dark.

Center weighted most of the time for me. If it's in the situation where I don't think the camera would expose the way I want it to. I typically just point at something that I think would do the trick, press a little lock button to lock exposure and then reframe.
 

giga

Member
http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/03/hammerforum-com

With the recent camera releases (or maybe Spring fever) I’ve been rather amazed watching various photography forums have major melt downs during the last few weeks. I said something about cameras and lenses just being tools, not life and death, and got immediately annihilated. They aren’t just tools, I was told, they are the means to make a living for some people, and the passionate hobby of others. That got me thinking, though: I have friends who make their living as carpenters, and others for whom woodworking is a passionate hobby. I got to thinking how silly their forums would seem if they acted like we do:

Hit the nail on the head.
 
Anyone get nervous about going on vacation with an expensive camera? Did you try to hide it in a different bag, or just not worry about it in a big city? Any tips?

I'll be going solo if it matters.
 

golem

Member
Anyone get nervous about going on vacation with an expensive camera? Did you try to hide it in a different bag, or just not worry about it in a big city? Any tips?

I'll be going solo if it matters.

Everyone has a dslr nowadays.. just have it on a strap and you should be fine.
 

Damaged

Member
Been having a look at allot of night time photography and I've been wondering how people decide what iso speed to run at? do you use auto iso or just play it by ear and use what you learn to gauge what will work with the lowest image noise?

I'm off to Berlin in a few weeks and really want to try and take more evening / night photos, ill be using my 35mm 1.8 so aperture size shouldnt be an issue but any help would be much appreciated
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
Been having a look at allot of night time photography and I've been wondering how people decide what iso speed to run at? do you use auto iso or just play it by ear and use what you learn to gauge what will work with the lowest image noise?

I'm off to Berlin in a few weeks and really want to try and take more evening / night photos, ill be using my 35mm 1.8 so aperture size shouldnt be an issue but any help would be much appreciated

night time photos of what? People? need high ISO, and wide apertures and or a flash. Static objects like buildings etc? Tripod with the lowest ISO you have.


Everyone has a dslr nowadays.. just have it on a strap and you should be fine.

yea when i went to the san diego zoo, you could spit in any direction and probably hit 3 people that had a DSLR.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Been having a look at allot of night time photography and I've been wondering how people decide what iso speed to run at? do you use auto iso or just play it by ear and use what you learn to gauge what will work with the lowest image noise?

I'm off to Berlin in a few weeks and really want to try and take more evening / night photos, ill be using my 35mm 1.8 so aperture size shouldnt be an issue but any help would be much appreciated

Basically what captive said. If you don't care about movement and you have a tripod with you you'll have the ability to work at base ISO and stop down a bit; which of course will provide the best quality. Off tripod you'll probably be working around ISO1600@f/2 and 1/30-50s in a city area. When you start talking about shooting by moonlight or total darkness, thats obviously even more extreme.

In the city at night I personally like to dial in a setting in Manual and keep it there since the street lights will be a constant unchanging source of light. This is with wider lenses though. If your shot is tighter and in a darker spot you'll probably want the camera to meter for you.
 

mclaren777

Member
Anyone get nervous about going on vacation with an expensive camera? Did you try to hide it in a different bag, or just not worry about it in a big city? Any tips?

Only nervous about going to foreign countries, but never domestically.

Buy one of these if you're concerned.

icfABeTi15VSD.jpg
 

Futureman

Member
I had my 5D2 in Santo Domingo over the summer and actually didn't even think about it. I was on some tour group though, but there were times when you could just walk around by yourself.

Has anyone on GAF bought a 5D3?
 

Damaged

Member
night time photos of what? People? need high ISO, and wide apertures and or a flash. Static objects like buildings etc? Tripod with the lowest ISO you have.

Basically what captive said. If you don't care about movement and you have a tripod with you you'll have the ability to work at base ISO and stop down a bit; which of course will provide the best quality. Off tripod you'll probably be working around ISO1600@f/2 and 1/30-50s in a city area. When you start talking about shooting by moonlight or total darkness, thats obviously even more extreme.

In the city at night I personally like to dial in a setting in Manual and keep it there since the street lights will be a constant unchanging source of light. This is with wider lenses though. If your shot is tighter and in a darker spot you'll probably want the camera to meter for you.

Will probably be looking a shooting a mixture of shots of people and buildings so will try and remember what you have both suggested. Thanks!

Yeah, I meant a foreign country. Interesting, never heard of this kind of product.

I have never had any problems wandering about on my own with my camera. Only a few times last year when I ended up in a slightly rougher area of Barcelona did I decide to put the camera away, and even then that was probably me being a little over cautious
 

RuGalz

Member
Yeah, I meant a foreign country. Interesting, never heard of this kind of product.

It's actually kinda pain in the butt if you plan to carry a backpack since the shoulder strap gets in the way imo.

One thing I would be careful of is thieves nowadays target expensive lenses as oppose to camera body because it's easier. So if you are standing around (in the market or wherever) with the camera hanging on the side, or toward the back, they will walk by and umount that lens without you knowing and walk away. I wouldn't worry *too* much if you are just carrying less expensive dslr.
 
It's actually kinda pain in the butt if you plan to carry a backpack since the shoulder strap gets in the way imo.

One thing I would be careful of is thieves nowadays target expensive lenses as oppose to camera body because it's easier. So if you are standing around (in the market or wherever) with the camera hanging on the side, or toward the back, they will walk by and umount that lens without you knowing and walk away. I wouldn't worry *too* much if you are just carrying less expensive dslr.

Hm, I think I would either keep it in my hand (holding) or in a bag. My lens is worth around $500 or so.
 

Ember128

Member
So I have a quick "metering mode" question / technique advice

What is the one you guys use the most, I think I mostly have spot metering on my camera, but any advice on when to use other modes or when spot metering is just not very effective? Or the best way to meter before focusing like should I point at the sky and meter and then recompose (I read this a lot on the exposure book I been reading) but a lot of times when I do this the exposure ends up being way too dark.

The sky and the ground generally end up being at different values. The camera can only see so light and so dark (far less than the human eye can), you can recover from shadows in post, not from blown out highlights. Highlights just end up being pure white. That's probably why they advise exposing for the sky, since it often is brighter.

If you have a subject/person in the frame, generally they should be properly exposed, not the sky or the ground.

If you're shooting landscapes, you may consider bracketing. Use a tripod (if you can) and you can set your camera to take one at -2EV, one even, one +2EV. Take those and check out the trial version of photomatix. The nice version is $100 USD.

Then, you can get the highlights, midranges, and shadows, and mash it into one image. It requires some hefty computing time from your computer, but well worth it.
 

EviLore

Expansive Ellipses
Staff Member
So I've noticed that my X100's shutter isn't actually anywhere near silent. And this is with all the sounds turned off, and/or in silent mode. The shutter is actually pretty loud. Going by videos I've seen, that isn't supposed to be the case at all.

I figured that's just how it was and people were exaggerating how quiet it was, but seems not. Damn my buying second hand I guess.
 

Antiwhippy

the holder of the trombone
Is there a good recommendation for a budget tripod, with budget being around $100-150?

Also keeping in mind that I live in australia so the price is automatically bumped up $20 or so.

Would be great if it can do the splits and go real low, but not really necessary.
 

yogloo

Member
Is there a good recommendation for a budget tripod, with budget being around $100-150?

Also keeping in mind that I live in australia so the price is automatically bumped up $20 or so.

Would be great if it can do the splits and go real low, but not really necessary.

I love the gorillapod. It wassreally useful during my last trip. Very portable and versatile.
 

RuGalz

Member
Is there a good recommendation for a budget tripod, with budget being around $100-150?

Also keeping in mind that I live in australia so the price is automatically bumped up $20 or so.

Would be great if it can do the splits and go real low, but not really necessary.

It really depends on what kind of camera you have - the amount of weight it needs to support, how important is collapsed size to you and how important is weight.

I recently went with Benro's travel flat series A1190T because it fits really easily in luggage and backpack and a Sunpak pistol grip head (inexpensive but very solid). You can find even cheaper stuff if you don't need a lot of support for heavy lenses.


I'm currently looking at the Powershot S95 and S100, is the latter worth it or should I just get the cheaper one?

I'm kinda looking around for similar type of camera for my gf... Have you looked at Nikon's P300? (or P310 which finally supports Raw)
 

shantyman

WHO DEY!?
So I've noticed that my X100's shutter isn't actually anywhere near silent. And this is with all the sounds turned off, and/or in silent mode. The shutter is actually pretty loud. Going by videos I've seen, that isn't supposed to be the case at all.

I figured that's just how it was and people were exaggerating how quiet it was, but seems not. Damn my buying second hand I guess.

I noticed this too and think it is normal. Compared to an SLR it is relatively silent. Remember you hear because it's rit next to your face.
 

FStop7

Banned
Has anyone tried the 5D3 yet first hand? How is the focus tracking?

If it is able to track focus as well as a 7D then I think I am going to get one rather than a 1DX.
 

Antiwhippy

the holder of the trombone
It really depends on what kind of camera you have - the amount of weight it needs to support, how important is collapsed size to you and how important is weight.

I recently went with Benro's travel flat series A1190T because it fits really easily in luggage and backpack and a Sunpak pistol grip head (inexpensive but very solid). You can find even cheaper stuff if you don't need a lot of support for heavy lenses.

I have a nex C3 with the standard zoom and a Nikon 50mm 1.8, and I'll be mostly using it for studio stuff.
 

Zyzyxxz

Member
Im really interested in getting a camera. I have around $200 - $500 to use....anybody got suggestions for a good starter camera.

Grab a refurbished or used Panasonic GF1/2 or a Olympus E-PL1/2 off Ebay or somewhere with the kit lens.

That's a way to get started. Or if you don't mind a bigger body try the cheapest Canon Rebel or Nikon D3000 or 3100 you can find.
 

RuGalz

Member
I have a nex C3 with the standard zoom and a Nikon 50mm 1.8, and I'll be mostly using it for studio stuff.

You can probably look around for Oben and Benro stuff for features you need. They are decently priced, lower end stuff, which I personally don't have much complains. Gorillapod might suit your needs though.
 

Deadly Cyclone

Pride of Iowa State
Going to ask now and I'll check for answers in the morning. I would love to get a full fledged camera someday, but for now am looking into an awesome point and shoot for trips. What's the best I can get for under $400? Under $300? Thanks folks.
 

Zyzyxxz

Member
Going to ask now and I'll check for answers in the morning. I would love to get a full fledged camera someday, but for now am looking into an awesome point and shoot for trips. What's the best I can get for under $400? Under $300? Thanks folks.

Under $400? A Canon S100, Panasonic LX5, Olympus XZ-1 are the best choices that come to mind.

Under $300? The same 3 cameras above but buy them used/refurbished.
 

RuGalz

Member
Going to ask now and I'll check for answers in the morning. I would love to get a full fledged camera someday, but for now am looking into an awesome point and shoot for trips. What's the best I can get for under $400? Under $300? Thanks folks.

I have been looking at Canon S95, S100 and Nikon P300 and P310 that falls under this category for my gf. I haven't decided which one to go with yet. I'd jump on P300 if it supported Raw (but then again Raw on p&s size sensor might not be that useful anyway...) They are in the 3-400 range but I have seen P300 on sale for 250ish.
 

DerKomisar

Neo Member
Hola CameraGaf,

I took the plunge and bought my first camera other than my phone, a Sony NEX-5N. It's been great so far learning new stuff every day about it, about general photography terms, and software (lightroom 4 is craziness vs. taking your roll of 35mm to the hut in the grocery store parking lot and praying the pics came out for 10 days). But I have a beginner question.

How long did you shoot with auto focus (or f/ stop priority, ISO priority) before you went to full maunual focus? I've been spending to much time on photo forums (F.M.) looking at fast prime "hammers" and want to take the plunge. Smart? Or wait for a few 1000 pics?
 

RuGalz

Member
How long did you shoot with auto focus (or f/ stop priority, ISO priority) before you went to full maunual focus? I've been spending to much time on photo forums (F.M.) looking at fast prime "hammers" and want to take the plunge. Smart? Or wait for a few 1000 pics?
Grats! I pretty much just use Av mode right away and most of the time. (But with my current camera, I rarely need to leave HyperProgram mode or TAv mode - hybrid apeture and shutter modes.) Full manual is only necessary in special cases.
 

Ember128

Member
Hola CameraGaf,

I took the plunge and bought my first camera other than my phone, a Sony NEX-5N. It's been great so far learning new stuff every day about it, about general photography terms, and software (lightroom 4 is craziness vs. taking your roll of 35mm to the hut in the grocery store parking lot and praying the pics came out for 10 days). But I have a beginner question.

How long did you shoot with auto focus (or f/ stop priority, ISO priority) before you went to full maunual focus? I've been spending to much time on photo forums (F.M.) looking at fast prime "hammers" and want to take the plunge. Smart? Or wait for a few 1000 pics?

It took me a couple thousand shots before I did. But I should have gone sooner.

If you can pick up a 50mm F 1.8/1.4 Prime Lens, (even the $300 Sony one is nice) shoot that wide open in aperture priority mode for a while, and it will teach you a lot. Take photos of people or pets or flowers or tree bark or fence posts or whatever from relatively close.

That kind of lens forces you to learn composition a bit. Photos of the most mundane things become magical when it is the sole subject in focus. The first thing I photographed with my 50 F1.4 was a bottle of 7up and I was just like WOAH.
 

DerKomisar

Neo Member
It took me a couple thousand shots before I did. But I should have gone sooner.

If you can pick up a 50mm F 1.8/1.4 Prime Lens, (even the $300 Sony one is nice) shoot that wide open in aperture priority mode for a while, and it will teach you a lot. Take photos of people or pets or flowers or tree bark or fence posts or whatever from relatively close.

That kind of lens forces you to learn composition a bit. Photos of the most mundane things become magical when it is the sole subject in focus. The first thing I photographed with my 50 F1.4 was a bottle of 7up and I was just like WOAH.

Thanks for the advice. The only problem with the NEX E-mount system right now is the lack of lens but I think i'll start looking around and find a good prime and adapter in my price range.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
So I have a quick "metering mode" question / technique advice

What is the one you guys use the most, I think I mostly have spot metering on my camera, but any advice on when to use other modes or when spot metering is just not very effective? Or the best way to meter before focusing like should I point at the sky and meter and then recompose (I read this a lot on the exposure book I been reading) but a lot of times when I do this the exposure ends up being way too dark.

grab a copy of 'understanding exposure'. It talks about stuff like this. When spot metering he'll pick something that represents 'mid grey' which is what the camera tries to normalise everything as. He uses some examples like the grass being quite close, but then having to adjust the exposure up/down to compensate.

Most modern cameras do perfectly well with matrix metering outdoors on a good day, if you're not shooting something very light or very dark. And if you are just exposure compensate up/down accordingly.
 

Antiwhippy

the holder of the trombone
Thanks for the advice. The only problem with the NEX E-mount system right now is the lack of lens but I think i'll start looking around and find a good prime and adapter in my price range.

You can get a Nikon 50mm/1.8D and adaptor for around $150 as a combo. Produces pretty nice results on the Nex C3, but the 75mm focal length can be somewhat limiting.
 
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