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[nib95]

I finally got a 5D mk III (for $2700!!) and am really liking it so far.

The 61 point auto-focusing system is dope. I've only had it for a week but AI-servo with 61 AF auto tracking is really really good.

If you are into video - the audio solutions are much better now. I'm selling off my Zoom H4n and thinking about getting this guy: JuicedLINK RM333

Just mount it on the mk III, set the camera levels low and boost the gain on it with a XLR mic like Rode NTG-2 and viola - Audio that is a million times better than in-camera stuff. Also no more SYNCING IN POST!! I hated that shit.

Nice. And yea I was thinking about doing some video as well. At the moment I'm having to hire freelance videographers to join me on wedding shoots. But I find it easier to find other photographers than to find DSLR/Steadi Cam (etc) using videographers, so in certain jobs where I can't get a videographer I might just do the video side instead.

I have a friend who freelances in videography and post production and he's doing really well at the moment. Might ask him what equipment they use, but I know they're in to some heavier stuff now.

Let me know how you get on with that RM333, because I'm at that point where I'm still taking it all in on the video side. Do you use a steadicam unit of any kind yourself? Or all tripod?

 

[dmshaposv]

Nice. And yea I was thinking about doing some video as well. At the moment I'm having to hire freelance videographers to join me on wedding shoots. But I find it easier to find other photographers than to find DSLR/Steadi Cam (etc) using videographers, so in certain jobs where I can't get a videographer I might just do the video side instead.

I have a friend who freelances in videography and post production and he's doing really well at the moment. Might ask him what equipment they use, but I know they're in to some heavier stuff now.

Let me know how you get on with that RM333, because I'm at that point where I'm still taking it all in on the video side. Do you use a steadicam unit of any kind yourself? Or all tripod?

You really should consider video - the mk III can be a very good video cam. Doing both video + photos for weddings and you'll be making lots more money!

For steady video - I have two things:

Manfrotto 501 HDV head + x055 legs. 3D tripod with horizontal movements (can be used as a makeshit jib!)

Cheap-o shoulder rig (when I had a 600d). I may invest in something better since it cant support the weight of my 5D + 24-70 (very heavy combo). I plan on getting the manfrotto SYMPLA gear since it looks ace. You MUST have counter weights to balance a heavy body/lens combo.

I'm planning to get:

RM333 + Rode NTG-2 (with shock mount, dead cat and boom pole)

Konova Slider + crank handle. MUCH cheaper than any of that overpriced Kessler stuff.

Opteka Steadicam Pro (basically an off-brand rip off of Steadicam Merlin 2, except it doesnt cost $800 but only $180!!!)

For lenses

Get a lens with IS!! it helps.

I have three lenses - Canon 24-70, 100 macro and a lowlight "backup" lens (f 1.4, e.t.c.). You can easily shoot a whole wedding with those two (and you already have them so you know whats up!)

So yeah, it takes some more $$$ to get things going - but you can get a fairly light kit yet pro results with these combos.

Since you are just planning to shoot weddings, I'd suggest saving some money with a pricey RM333 + Rode NTG-2 setup and going for just a Rode video mic pro. If you dont plan on shooting a short film or something for broadcast - the video mic pro is more than good enough for a simple wedding and much easier to setup - especially with audio monitoring and gain control via the mk III.

 

[tino]

For those people who have Asian connections, just a heads up that the NEX kit lens price hs dropped again.

I posted in the beginning of this year that the NEX E16 price has drop to $100 in China and I was going to get one. But my wife botched the purchase and the price soon spiked back to around $180. I was pissed for a few days.

I discovered recently that the NEX kit lens price has dropped again. I was able to ask family to buy a E16 for 690 RMB ($109) and the black 18-55 for 780 RMB ($124) this month. If you have people in HK, you should be able to get the lens in the similar range.

After using the 18-55mm once, I don't see myself using it much in the future. However with the price so low I don't see any down side in keeping a spare NEX system as a backup. I am glad I didn't spend no where near the $250 for the black 18-55mm, I will tell you that.

 

[Iacobellis]

What would be the best route into getting a telephoto lens? I'm currently using a Nikon D3100 with the 18-55 kit and a 50mm 1.8D.

Spoiler

I should have gotten the G model, no AF is a pain!

I can either get a 55-200 VR, or completely forget about the kit lens and go with an 18-105. The price difference would not be too much of an issue, I just want to carry less with me wherever I go, up to three or four lenses.

 

[centracore]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the D7000 and all of it's features/settings.. as far as the autofocus modes go, is this fairly accurate?

AF-A: don't use this
AF-S: stationary objects
AF-C: moving objects

 

[Instigator]

Not a bad idea at all. ;-) I'm seriously interested in this little bastard for my old E-Pl1. Should give some Lomo feeling.

I'm on the fence about it. IQ is rather bad by any objective standard and F8 doesn't make it all that useful in all but the brightest days. I'd rather pay a little more and just get the Lumix 14mm (you can stop it down to F8 if it's really needed). Much better IQ, autofocus, faster. Heck even the notorious Zuiko 17mm is better in all those respects.

But if this becomes the new body cap for any new Pen owner at no extra cost, then I guess this is not bad. For those who pay a little extra to buy a body+lens kit then again, I see nothing wrong having this body cap thrown in into the mix.

I just hope not too much R&D was wasted on that thing.

 

[Antiwhippy]

I'm on the fence about it. IQ is rather bad by any objective standard and F8 doesn't make it all that useful in all but the brightest days. I'd rather pay a little more and just get the Lumix 14mm (you can stop it down to F8 if it's really needed). Much better IQ, autofocus, faster. Heck even the notorious Zuiko 17mm is better in all those respects.

But if this becomes the new body cap for any new Pen owner at no extra cost, then I guess this is not bad. For those who pay a little extra to buy a body+lens kit then again, I see nothing wrong having this body cap thrown in into the mix.

I just hope not too much R&D was wasted on that thing.

I dunno, some of the samples look ok, you just have to be more careful about camera shake?

 

[tino]

I dunno, some of the samples look ok, you just have to be more careful about camera shake?

Is it a hyperfocal lens or you can control the AF? Seem to be useful on a NEX or Fuji with an adapter.


Wait its MF? Its definitely usable then.

edit: err the sample shots don't seem to be better than cellphone photos...

 

[Antiwhippy]

Well, slapping an adaptor on it kinda defeats the only appeal of lens, which is that it is incredibly tiny. Like body cap size.

 

[mclaren777]

Dave Etchells/Imaging Resource: I guess we might as well start out with the 6D. Obviously, that's the big news. There's been some discussion online about the 6D having a smaller number of AF points than previous Canon DSLRs and, in particular, the single cross-type sensor in the middle. Is there a downside to offering more cross-type points or is it a cost issue? Is it a matter of product differentiation among your line?

Mike Owen/Canon: It's a variety of reasons, really. I mean, yes, there is the cost side of things, but what we've tried to do with the autofocus system on the 6D is to actually improve low-light performance. It goes down to EV -3. So when emphasizing low-light performance, we've always had to make elements of the AF system larger, which limits our ability to put in more cross-type points.

DE: So it's a conscious design decision. You really wanted to emphasize low light.

MO: Yes, absolutely. It was a decision that we felt that this type of camera in this particular user group, auto focus performance is not 100% critical. But low-light performance for autofocus is important. And it's just about that trade off.

Source

 

[Flo_Evans]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the D7000 and all of it's features/settings.. as far as the autofocus modes go, is this fairly accurate?

AF-A: don't use this
AF-S: stationary objects
AF-C: moving objects

That is the jist of it... you also must consider that in AF-S mode the meter is biased twards the focus point (even in matrix mode) this can be a good or a bad thing.

I highly recommend Thom Hogan's D7000 guide http://www.bythom.com/nikond7000guide.htm

It is quite dense, but covers every single menu and sub menu in laborious detail.

 

[stldave2]

For steady video - I have two things:

Manfrotto 501 HDV head + x055 legs. 3D tripod with horizontal movements (can be used as a makeshit jib!)

How do you like that setup? I was going to go with a similar choice but ended up going with the Sachtler Ace. I'm in love with the Sachtler but I'm jealous of the horizontal movement.

 

[BlueTsunami]

Finally got my Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 back, a preliminary shot...

Got this baby for $105 and the hood for $10. Can't beat this price for this caliber of lens, at all. Really psyched and this ones focus action is smoother than my former one which was really tight. Adapting this lens to my NEX5N with a fotodiox Nikon F to E-Mount adapter. Sharp, smooth bokeh, great colors and contrast. What more can you ask for? Besides it being a zoom!

 

[tino]

Finally got my Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 back, a preliminary shot...



Got this baby for $105 and the hood for $10. Can't beat this price for this caliber of lens, at all. Really psyched and this ones focus action is smoother than my former one which was really tight. Adapting this lens to my NEX5N with a fotodiox Nikon F to E-Mount adapter.

I thought about getting this lens, but I want to try something longer. Do you have any recomendation thats slightly longer. I was thinking maybe Nikon 180/2.8 AIS. Or maybe something in the 135/2 range.

Going by flickr photos the Nikon 180/2.8 AIS color seem to be duller than the 105/2.5.

 

[Iacobellis]

What would be the best route into getting a telephoto lens? I'm currently using a Nikon D3100 with the 18-55 kit and a 50mm 1.8D.

Spoiler

I should have gotten the G model, no AF is a pain!

I can either get a 55-200 VR, or completely forget about the kit lens and go with an 18-105. The price difference would not be too much of an issue, I just want to carry less with me wherever I go, up to three or four lenses.

Nobody is sure?

 

[BlueTsunami]

I thought about getting this lens, but I want to try something longer. Do you have any recomendation thats slightly longer. I was thinking maybe Nikon 180/2.8 AIS. Or maybe something in the 135/2 range.

Going by flickr photos the Nikon 180/2.8 AIS color seem to be duller than the 105/2.5.

That range is definitely a tough one, it seems to be at the limit of affordability for vintage lenses and there's a gulf between the mediocre lenses and the really special ones but the gulf includes the price too. You may want to check out the Contax/Yashica 80-200mm f/4 if you don't mind a slower lens, its supposed to be a hidden gen in the Contax lens and for manual lenses in general. If you want the speed from a prime then I think the Nikon 180/2.8 would be your best bet from a value perspective.

Another lens to possibly consider is the C/Y 135mm f/2.8 Sonnar. Its supposed to be another underrated lens. Very good Zeiss colors, contrast if not a little subdued (in the Zeiss comparison vacuum) but the bokeh is supposed to be very smooth and lovely.

 

[Herpes Reasons]

bought a kiron 28mm f/2 OM for $35 on ebay.
heard good things about this lens.
anyone use this brand?

 

[nib95]

You really should consider video - the mk III can be a very good video cam. Doing both video + photos for weddings and you'll be making lots more money!

For steady video - I have two things:

Manfrotto 501 HDV head + x055 legs. 3D tripod with horizontal movements (can be used as a makeshit jib!)

Cheap-o shoulder rig (when I had a 600d). I may invest in something better since it cant support the weight of my 5D + 24-70 (very heavy combo). I plan on getting the manfrotto SYMPLA gear since it looks ace. You MUST have counter weights to balance a heavy body/lens combo.

I'm planning to get:

RM333 + Rode NTG-2 (with shock mount, dead cat and boom pole)

Konova Slider + crank handle. MUCH cheaper than any of that overpriced Kessler stuff.

Opteka Steadicam Pro (basically an off-brand rip off of Steadicam Merlin 2, except it doesnt cost $800 but only $180!!!)

For lenses

Get a lens with IS!! it helps.

I have three lenses - Canon 24-70, 100 macro and a lowlight "backup" lens (f 1.4, e.t.c.). You can easily shoot a whole wedding with those two (and you already have them so you know whats up!)

So yeah, it takes some more $$$ to get things going - but you can get a fairly light kit yet pro results with these combos.

Since you are just planning to shoot weddings, I'd suggest saving some money with a pricey RM333 + Rode NTG-2 setup and going for just a Rode video mic pro. If you dont plan on shooting a short film or something for broadcast - the video mic pro is more than good enough for a simple wedding and much easier to setup - especially with audio monitoring and gain control via the mk III.

This is a super useful post. I genuinely appreciate your time. Might have to drop you a couple of PM's in future asking advice if you don't mind.


On a side note, just discovered a nice little feature with the 5D Mk III that I don't remember being available with the Mk II. That is, AE Lock and Hold. In the past I'd have to keep AE Locking every few seconds or every shot in certain situations for a desired exposure/look, which can be bothersome if you're trying to match the same exposure lock over multiple shots. However with the 5D Mk III you can lock it for up to 30 mins. I have mine currently set to 1 min, which should save me a bit of time and bother in certain scenario's.

Just a shame I had to use up the AF-ON button to use it. Figure I'll switch AF-ON back to an auto focus button if I shoot video. Have the option saved in "My Menu" so I should be able to do it in a few seconds.

Also, touch sensitive completely silent jog dial is awesome during video recording.

 

[dmshaposv]

This is a super useful post. I genuinely appreciate your time. Might have to drop you a couple of PM's in future asking advice if you don't mind.

No problem, man. I'm mainly a video shooter so I might get some advice from you in the stills department!

On a side note, just discovered a nice little feature with the 5D Mk III that I don't remember being available with the Mk II. That is, AE Lock and Hold. In the past I'd have to keep AE Locking every few seconds or every shot in certain situations for a desired exposure/look, which can be bothersome if you're trying to match the same exposure lock over multiple shots. However with the 5D Mk III you can lock it for up to 30 mins. I have mine currently set to 1 min, which should save me a bit of time and bother in certain scenario's.

Just a shame I had to use up the AF-ON button to use it. Figure I'll switch AF-ON back to an auto focus button if I shoot video. Have the option saved in "My Menu" so I should be able to do it in a few seconds.

I'm still trying to customize and grasp all these new controls (I came from a 600D!) but yeah my stills quality and in-focus shots have improved!

I have configured my AF-on to focus/metering, half-down shutter to metering and AE-on to exposure lock. I'm seeing whether I like this way of working or not. The half-shutter down is more intuitive but I like to meter first, lock exposure, then focus with af-on and then take the shot.

Also never auto-focus in video (while recording), but you can auto-focus pre-recording. Manual focus only whilst recording.

Also, touch sensitive completely silent jog dial is awesome during video recording.

Very awesome that you can change ISO/Aperture/Shutter/Sound while recording. I always thought it was only for sound (going by reviews). I don't even think a d800 allows that while recording...

In terms of real world application - I suggest only ISO and sound adjustment though. Change ISO only in bad conditions. Unfortunately the ISO/Aperture settings are in 1/3 increments and look nasty whilst recording when changing. Keep shutter speed locked at 1/50 for 24p and 1/125 for 60p.

So mainly use it for sound (smoothest), ISO only when light changes and it is critical to keep proper exposure. For Aperture - get a "de-clicked" Samyang f1.4 cine lens (runs around $400 dollars) and a ND-fader for smoother adjustments for exposure while recording.

 

[BlueTsunami]

bought a kiron 28mm f/2 OM for $35 on ebay.
heard good things about this lens.
anyone use this brand?

I've read its a good lens for the price and the speed but it can't hold a candle against the more expensive 28mm lenses. Its supposed to perform very well at close focus distance.

 

[tino]

That range is definitely a tough one, it seems to be at the limit of affordability for vintage lenses and there's a gulf between the mediocre lenses and the really special ones but the gulf includes the price too. You may want to check out the Contax/Yashica 80-200mm f/4 if you don't mind a slower lens, its supposed to be a hidden gen in the Contax lens and for manual lenses in general. If you want the speed from a prime then I think the Nikon 180/2.8 would be your best bet from a value perspective.

Another lens to possibly consider is the C/Y 135mm f/2.8 Sonnar. Its supposed to be another underrated lens. Very good Zeiss colors, contrast if not a little subdued (in the Zeiss comparison vacuum) but the bokeh is supposed to be very smooth and lovely.

I spent a whole night checking out photos samples on flickr and decided to narrow down my decisions between the Canon FD 135mm/2.5 and Konica AR 135/3.2 for now. I am not sure if any one of the the MF lens worth 200+ dollars so I want to get a cheaper one to find out if I can MF in that range.

The reason I prefer the lens with shorter flange distance is that none of them can be used on digital SLR and its much easier to find one in good shape than the usual suspects of K mount and m42 stuff. C/Y mount has a long flange distance too.

I scheduled a group of auctions on gixen and I will let the market decide which one I will get.

 

[fat pat]

Found this in another thread, but thought it could fit here too.

http://youtu.be/qKpxd8hzOcQ

 

[Antiwhippy]

http://blog.mingthein.com/2012/10/15/olympus-15-8-body-cap-lens/

Soft corners, sharp center, as expected. But it still looks like it renders pretty well and I still find it really compelling, especially at that price point.

 

[Art Teitlebaum]

http://blog.mingthein.com/2012/10/15/olympus-15-8-body-cap-lens/

Soft corners, sharp center, as expected. But it still looks like it renders pretty well and I still find it really compelling, especially at that price point.

Conclusion: At just US$60, it’s a no-brainer recommendation for anybody who owns a M4/3 camera, especially if you’ve got a older or spare one lying around. Mine now lives on my E-PM1 Pen Mini, which has seen little use since the OM-D and Sony RX100 entered the stable. put this on, stick the camera in your pocket, and go for a walk. You’ll be glad you did. MT

That was precisely what I was hoping for my E-PL1. Now the Euro price must come to more sensible regions. Won't pay 80 Eypos for this.

 

[mclaren777]

Are these artifacts common on M4/3 cameras?

 

[Antiwhippy]

He's shooting through a window display, so it's not the best test. Add the len's tendency to smudge the corners to that.

I do find that the previous gen pens (like my EPM1) does have quite a bit of shadow noise.

 

[Herpes Reasons]

I've read its a good lens for the price and the speed but it can't hold a candle against the more expensive 28mm lenses. Its supposed to perform very well at close focus distance.

sweet. thanks!

 

[paskowitz]

I am looking for a camera new or used (more likely used). DSLR or mirrorless. It has to be able to take decent video and even better pictures. Cost is very important. $500-1000 with anything that is good near $500 being preferable. I rather go used and get a better camera. What are your suggestions? Thanks.

Used Nikon D90? In terms of lenses, I rather go for a good versatile lense first. Suggestions?

 

[Antiwhippy]

At that price range why not a canon 550D and another lens?

 

[Pixel Pete]

I'm on the upgrade path to a new a65 and the new 16-50 SSM sony lens, along with a sigma 30mm 1.4 and then some timelapse equipment. Excite!

 

[phisheep]

At that price range why not a canon 550D and another lens?

I would think that's gotta be a good bet. A bunch of used 550Ds turning up (in the UK market at least), check out a reputable seller.

 

[mclaren777]

I am looking for a camera...What are your suggestions?

Here's my advice: take advantage of the Canon Loyalty Program.

If you have a broken Canon P&S camera (or you can find one at the Goodwill or on Craigslist for $20) you simply exchange it for 20% off Canon's refurbished gear.

The Winning Ticket: Canon 60D + 50mm f/1.8 = $720 after discount

FAQ
Canon Bodies
Canon Lenses
Youtube

 

[Flo_Evans]

I am looking for a camera new or used (more likely used). DSLR or mirrorless. It has to be able to take decent video and even better pictures. Cost is very important. $500-1000 with anything that is good near $500 being preferable. I rather go used and get a better camera. What are your suggestions? Thanks.

Used Nikon D90? In terms of lenses, I rather go for a good versatile lense first. Suggestions?

I would go for a used D7000 over a D90.

D90 is worthless for video. D7000 is superior in every way. I would get it with the kit lens if possible, 18-105 covers most of what you want to do. This would be at your limit, but worth it IMHO.

 

[Salaadin]

Ive decided that I want to get a DSLR instead and am starting to save up for one. Any good places to read up on photography basics in general? Any suggestions for a good, entry level DSLR?

A friend suggested that I read "Understanding Exposure, 3rd Edition: How to Shoot Great Photographs with Any Camera" by Bryan Peterson so I have that ordered and its on its way. Ill probably be purchasing the camera after Xmas when I have some extra money saved up.

 

[mclaren777]

I own Understanding Exposure, and while I didn't much care for it, I think it's a great place to start.

My advice is to get Lightroom 4 because it'll help you really get the most from your pictures.

To start learning now, watch all of the episodes that have this symbol:

http://tv.adobe.com/show/the-complete-picture-with-julieanne-kost/

 

[Flo_Evans]

Ive decided that I want to get a DSLR instead and am starting to save up for one. Any good places to read up on photography basics in general? Any suggestions for a good, entry level DSLR?

A friend suggested that I read "Understanding Exposure, 3rd Edition: How to Shoot Great Photographs with Any Camera" by Bryan Peterson so I have that ordered and its on its way. Ill probably be purchasing the camera after Xmas when I have some extra money saved up.

Learn from the master http://www.amazon.com/dp/0821221841/?tag=neogaf0e-20

edit: why I love nikon...

my 1977 manual film camera works perfectly with my 2008 AF-S lens.

 

[Menelaus]

I own Understanding Exposure, and while I didn't much care for it, I think it's a great place to start.

My advice is to get Lightroom 4 because it'll help you really get the most from your pictures.

To start learning now, watch all of the episodes that have this symbol:

http://tv.adobe.com/show/the-complete-picture-with-julieanne-kost/

I've had so many issues with LR4 that I didn't have with 2. If 2 could import my OM-D raw files, I wouldn't have switched over.

 

[sneaky77]

I've had so many issues with LR4 that I didn't have with 2. If 2 could import my OM-D raw files, I wouldn't have switched over.

really? I haven't had any issues with 4 so far, overall I like it better than 3.

 

[zephervack]

Speaking of software, does anyone know if there is something like Capture NX2 or Viveza for Canon that doesnt convert my RAWs to Tiff's?

I cant live without Viveza, but its kind of a drag that it needs to generate huge tiff files for every picture

I saw a class on Capture NX2 and I was absolutely amazed, too bad it doesnt work with Canon's raw

 

[Menelaus]

really? I haven't had any issues with 4 so far, overall I like it better than 3.

It's SOOOOOO SLOOOOOOOOOOW. Importing from disk is also needlessly over complicated now as well, unless I'm missing something.

 

[Flo_Evans]

Speaking of software, does anyone know if there is something like Capture NX2 or Viveza for Canon that doesnt convert my RAWs to Tiff's?

I cant live without Viveza, but its kind of a drag that it needs to generate huge tiff files for every picture

I saw a class on Capture NX2 and I was absolutely amazed, too bad it doesnt work with Canon's raw

yuk.

Nikon needs to hire some software developers... Try lightroom or aperture. Capture NX2 is a POS (it does do some nice stuff, but the UI and speed are laughable).

 

[zephervack]

yuk.

Nikon needs to hire some software developers... Try lightroom or aperture. Capture NX2 is a POS (it does do some nice stuff, but the UI and speed are laughable).

I actually use Lightroom, its the masking and selection capabilities of Capture NX2 that I like, not so much the rest, and the biggest feature for me is that it works right on the RAW, Lightroom + Viveza generate an extra Tiff file for every picture

Its going to get really expensive to manage all these files if I continue down this road

 

[mclaren777]

Speaking of software, does anyone know if there is something like Capture NX2 or Viveza for Canon?

Photoshop + Viveza would allow you to overwrite the original file. I've mostly stopped using Nik products now that I've become more familiar with Lightroom. And I doubt you use Viveza for very many pictures so is file space really an issue?

It's SOOOOOO SLOOOOOOOOOOW.

Have you tried v4.2 yet?

 

[Menelaus]

Have you tried v4.2 yet?

No, not yet. I have a big batch of raws to develop this week, I'll give it a go.

 

[Flo_Evans]

I actually use Lightroom, its the masking and selection capabilities of Capture NX2 that I like, not so much the rest, and the biggest feature for me is that it works right on the RAW, Lightroom + Viveza generate an extra Tiff file for every picture

Its going to get really expensive to manage all these files if I continue down this road

Oh, I get it now. Yeah Capture NX2 masking seems very similar to what Viveza does. I haven't ever used Canons RAW converter software, but I think it only really converts... don't think you can do much advanced editing in it.

 

[Parallacs]

Any one else going crazy waiting for the Samyang Tilt Shift?

http://www.samyang.co.uk/samyang-t-s-24mm-f35-ed-as-umc-lens.html

Price estimates seem to be all over the place. I think $1,500 is probably a safe guess, but then their fisheye is dirt cheap so who knows? I just wish there were some updates on it.

 

[Instigator]

He's shooting through a window display, so it's not the best test. Add the len's tendency to smudge the corners to that.

I do find that the previous gen pens (like my EPM1) does have quite a bit of shadow noise.

Pretty much.

Shadow noise was even worse with their DSLR's (were using the same sensor).

 

[dr3upmushroom]

HALP!

So I have a Nikon D5000 that's been sitting here because I've broken the LCD display screen. I called a local camera repairman and he informed me that Nikon doesn't send out parts anymore, and that I'd have to send it in. Now this wouldn't bug me so much, but I've heard that it takes months for them to do anything. Anyways, the guy said if I could get a screen he'd fix it for me. I'm looking at Ebay right now, and my search for "Nikon D5000 LCD display" comes up with plenty of results, but I don't know if they are reliable or not. Has anyone had to deal with this?

 

[d[-_-]b]

Dudes, a little help on entry-level cameras, where should I get started?
Whats the best bang for the buck..

 

[mclaren777]

Dudes, a little help on entry-level cameras, where should I get started?
Whats the best bang for the buck..

Please give us a price range. And what will you primarily be taking pictures of?